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6G Celicas Forums _ My Project _ 1999 Celica GT with VVT-I Inside

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 17, 2011 - 9:07 PM

A little bit of background to my story and what I call an almost miracle biggrin.gif

WOW, I can't believe how much of a coincidence its been for me. The same day I crashed my car which was on Dec. 13 2010 was the same day that Erahman posted up his 99 Celica GT with beams swap for sale. I couldn't believe that the opportunity presented itself so quickly. What are the chances of that. I mainly believe that its just the fact that I've been wanting to get a beams swap since September of 2008. I actually bought a 2008 Suzuki GSX-R 750 in July 2008. I was all ecstatic when I bought as anybody else would be, but when I found out about the beams swap thanks to Maikl I actually regretted buying the motorcycle. It then wasn't until may 2010 when I crashed my bike in the canyons that I knew the beams engine would be mine very soon. My parents have Triple AAA plus which allows you to tow any vehicle free of charge as long as it is not more than 100 miles. So I drove down to San Diego and the tow truck took my new Celica to my house biggrin.gif

I have to say that my dream car wouldn't of been possible if it wasn't for the fact that my grandma let me borrow $4,500. Those $4,500 that I used to buy the celica went a long ways. Erahman took real good care of the car and only put about 3,500 miles on the swap since June 2010. He has replaced a lot of maintenance parts. The one thing that was an upgrade was that fact that my celica now has ABS, power windows, power door locks and rear disk brakes!! tongue.gif

All I have to say is that If feels damn good to be unique haha! Some of you might ask what is he talking about. Let me put it this way over here in So cal there are probably 5 million civics and 2 million Integras. Also the fact that there are probably only 4 or 5 beams engines in all of California.













Walbro 255LPH fuel pump purchased from Tweak Tuning and WRC Style Rain Deflector given to me for about $8 thanks to batman! if anybody has a trd one in near perfect condition I'll trade you for my wrc one!!!

Posted by: SupraKid Feb 17, 2011 - 9:16 PM

Nice, sell me that gauge pod.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Feb 17, 2011 - 9:19 PM

why is the strut out?

i think thats an improvement... all those goodies..

And to the vulture, this is not a fs thread...

Posted by: Batman722 Feb 17, 2011 - 9:26 PM

why a new fuel pump ? the Beams fuel pump is the same on that's in our US Celicas.

Posted by: Luism392 Feb 17, 2011 - 9:30 PM

nice car!!!!!! smile.gif hope to see it soon

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 17, 2011 - 9:47 PM

QUOTE (Batman722 @ Feb 17, 2011 - 10:26 PM) *
why a new fuel pump ? the Beams fuel pump is the same on that's in our US Celicas.


facepalm. hmm I didn't know that. well the car already has 125,000 miles so I just thought a new one would be better than an old and used one.

Posted by: chacha Feb 17, 2011 - 9:53 PM

ahh....so you bought that beam...congrats...must feel good. let me know if you got a "guy" to smog.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 18, 2011 - 2:25 AM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Feb 17, 2011 - 9:19 PM) *
why is the strut out?

i think thats an improvement... all those goodies..

And to the vulture, this is not a fs thread...


the strut is out because I like my tanabe setup with blisten inserts. I'm swapping over my whole 94 Celica ST Suspension setup to the 99 gt.

oh and some other things I found today tongue.gif

Honda S2000 Antenna haha yes I know a honda part on my celica


Some JDM Goodness its so beautiful thumbsup.gif





Posted by: delusionz Feb 18, 2011 - 4:08 AM

Good stuff. Nice Celica smile.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 19, 2011 - 4:10 AM

KIRKASOURS Motor Mounts


Posted by: kavy Feb 21, 2011 - 7:05 PM

Another celi with the BEAMS advantage and that too sooooo clean.Way to go thumbsup.gif

Posted by: malpaso Feb 23, 2011 - 9:54 AM

That BEAMS really looks beautiful in white car... hmmm.

Posted by: 95CelicaST Feb 23, 2011 - 10:51 AM

Sell me the steering wheel.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 23, 2011 - 3:50 PM

QUOTE (95CelicaST @ Feb 23, 2011 - 10:51 AM) *
Sell me the steering wheel.


haha no way they came stock on all celica from 98-99 I believe.


update : the front suspension is on and all four tires are on the ground. now onto swapping out the rear suspension

Posted by: Keiri Feb 23, 2011 - 4:02 PM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Feb 23, 2011 - 3:50 PM) *
QUOTE (95CelicaST @ Feb 23, 2011 - 10:51 AM) *
Sell me the steering wheel.


haha no way they came stock on all celica from 98-99 I believe.


update : the front suspension is on and all four tires are on the ground. now onto swapping out the rear suspension


Yup, one of the joys of having the later 90's models: 3-spoke leather wheels. biggrin.gif

This is going to be one of the best "fixer'up" projects on the site.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 23, 2011 - 8:36 PM

QUOTE (Keiri @ Feb 23, 2011 - 4:02 PM) *
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Feb 23, 2011 - 3:50 PM) *
QUOTE (95CelicaST @ Feb 23, 2011 - 10:51 AM) *
Sell me the steering wheel.


haha no way they came stock on all celica from 98-99 I believe.


update : the front suspension is on and all four tires are on the ground. now onto swapping out the rear suspension


Yup, one of the joys of having the later 90's models: 3-spoke leather wheels. biggrin.gif

This is going to be one of the best "fixer'up" projects on the site.


hey thanks! biggrin.gif your keeping me motivated to fix it up even faster. Im going to work on it tonight. Im just gettin started...

Posted by: gt4st205 Feb 25, 2011 - 9:21 AM

Let me know by PM if you are missing anything crucial for the engine. Preferably easy to get (a Junkyard here has one).

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 25, 2011 - 11:25 PM

haha darn look at this. The law of attraction at work. Coincidence I think not. look at the time frame I put up for getting the swap and that's how long I've been wanting this engine. 2 years and 4 months later it became mine.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=61930&mode=linearplus

Posted by: SupraKid Feb 25, 2011 - 11:41 PM

But..you didnt swap?You bought a car that had already been shop swaped.laugh.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Feb 25, 2011 - 11:44 PM

QUOTE (SupraKid @ Feb 25, 2011 - 11:41 PM) *
But..you didnt swap?You bought a car that had already been shop swaped.laugh.gif


haha of course I should off known you come on here with that smart a$$ reply. hey you little #@$*%^ ill see you at the meet alright. laugh.gif

Posted by: SupraKid Feb 25, 2011 - 11:47 PM

Haha Ill be driving my legally registered celica.(in which i dont smog) what will you be driving? biggrin.gif biggrin.gif bwahahhahaha

Posted by: quick_5hifter Mar 6, 2011 - 1:44 PM

I've read somewhere else that you have a Tanabe DF210 spring set... I'm also waiting for mine to arrive. Could you please upload some photos when you finish installing them?
Thank you very much and congratulations for that Beams engine!

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 10, 2011 - 8:59 PM

QUOTE (quick_5hifter @ Mar 6, 2011 - 1:44 PM) *
I've read somewhere else that you have a Tanabe DF210 spring set... I'm also waiting for mine to arrive. Could you please upload some photos when you finish installing them?
Thank you very much and congratulations for that Beams engine!


ya man no problem Ill take a pic, so far I've noticed that with the heavier 3sge engine vs my old 7afe set up the wheel gap is a little less, before it was 4 fingers with 7afe and now its 3.5 fingers with 3sge engine.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 14, 2011 - 12:48 AM

haha yes update with no pics I finally got the car on the road today. Man it feels so damn good!! biggrin.gif tongue.gif

Was dealing with some brake issues but got them sorted out 30 min ago. The car pulls nice so far, but I've only revved it to 4,000 rpm. Haven't felt the sweet spot off vvt-i from 4-7rpm. The brakes are a massive upgrade so far from my ST Setup. My Short Ram intake sounds so sick!!! basically like my buddy's ap2 s2000 but not as high revving.

The Down pipe Exhaust size is 2.25" then goes to 2" from the de-cat back and then to 1.75 inches from the exhaust muffler and out. Its so restrictive and the exhaust sounds like crap. I'll post some pics by tuesday or wednesday. Spending 12 hours today with the celica was a real pita, and that's how I spent my 21st bday haha.

Well plenty of work ahead of me wink.gif

Posted by: njccmd2002 Mar 14, 2011 - 2:03 AM

glad you like the intake...

also you need a better exhaust to love the beams..

ill take some videos of mine... someday

oh and 9000 rpm is so sick. dont ask dont tell

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 14, 2011 - 2:27 AM

ya i need to put my 2.25" magnaflow exhaust system with the fitted high flow magnaflow catalytic converter on asap from my old car. So any cops that might creep up behind me smell the fumes of the engine, I'm catalytic converter free right now kindasad.gif.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 20, 2011 - 3:19 AM

update! biggrin.gif







TRD Rain Deflector $16 hehe





12" Megan Racing Slim Fans


Timken Front Wheel Bearings with Seals $120

Posted by: delusionz Mar 20, 2011 - 4:58 AM

Dude! Take that thing up to 7000 RPM smile.gif

That 1.75 exhaust might be a problem though.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 20, 2011 - 7:54 PM

ah yes the 2 inch to 1.75 exhaust piping on the stock gt is restrictive. Although at the moment I have no catalytic converter. Not good as cops can smell my exhaust fumes. I'll get that fixed next weekend.

heres the video of my custom made intake hehe

http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=BeamsIntake.mp4

Posted by: mkernz22 Mar 20, 2011 - 8:15 PM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Mar 14, 2011 - 3:03 AM) *
glad you like the intake...

also you need a better exhaust to love the beams..

ill take some videos of mine... someday

oh and 9000 rpm is so sick. dont ask dont tell


you can rev it to 9000?....
and that sounds sick man, just watched the vid!

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 20, 2011 - 9:28 PM

ya im not sure what norbert is talking about. Im sure he doesn't know how to loom the engine either. In japan when they used to race the SS-III celica they would put the rev limiter at 8,600rpm where it would produce peak power. So theres no way he's able to hit 9,000 rpm on his stock engine.

Ya the intake sounds just like a k20 but needs the extra 1,000 rpm to sound like it, and as you can see by the video my idle problems are very minimal. If you hear the intake right before I start to rev it you'll notice it starts to make a weird noise, but otherwise it works great.. The intake sounds much better in person biggrin.gif my camcorder is a bit old.

Posted by: EKAn Mar 21, 2011 - 12:16 AM

so how are you going to register it and get it to pass smog?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 21, 2011 - 12:38 AM

QUOTE (EKAn @ Mar 21, 2011 - 12:16 AM) *
so how are you going to register it and get it to pass smog?


wow there!!, I already got that all figured out hehe. I already have the 2011 tag on the back of my license if you can see it in the first pic and it passed smog already!!!

Posted by: EKAn Mar 21, 2011 - 12:42 AM

For real? But there's no way that engine would pass a visual test in California

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Mar 26, 2011 - 10:29 PM

update: wont stop making noise, front sway bar components, brake components, pooping noise when going over bumps/dips!!!. Ordered the wrong power slot rotor for the 91 celica gt. Stupid mosaic motorsports didn't list 94-00 celica rotor but listed it as 2000 Celica GT. So i thought the 7th gen gt brake rotor was different. Great now I have to wait another week till Friday or so to make the exchange through US Post office.

This is seriously like the never ending storry! question is will I ever be able to drive my celica without it making a noise. This is driving me up the wall

mad.gif

Jan 22nd to March 26 = Car still not in perfect driving condition, and its my daily driver as well. man this sucks

Posted by: chacha Mar 26, 2011 - 11:01 PM

hang in there...with an old car, that's just how it is...noises do suck A$$

Posted by: delusionz Mar 27, 2011 - 4:34 AM

Will it be sweet once the correct rotor is installed?

I read somewhere in the thread "what parts from other gens are compatible with our cars" that "7th gen brakes are compatible and in theory so are 7th gen big brake kits"

Posted by: delusionz Mar 27, 2011 - 4:37 AM

Btw I doubt you can smell fumes from another car, it has to be really old and ****ty, like a VW Combi van with black smoke or something

Posted by: block Mar 27, 2011 - 10:16 AM

Looking good man.

Posted by: trdproven Mar 27, 2011 - 5:23 PM

jealous, have fun with it.

Posted by: dudeofchaos Mar 30, 2011 - 11:35 AM

Sick! Nice job man! Keep up the good work! Jealous people here... Including me! hehe smile.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Apr 18, 2011 - 3:19 AM

a bit of an update you can say....

57MM Magnaflow Exhaust from Old 94 Celica will be fitted by Friday or this Saturday with the addition of a magnaflow 14" Long Resonator. I will also be changing the routing of the piping to under the rear sub frame. Current setup with the crush bents over the sub frame I feel that it is restricting air flow.





Changing out my Front Bearings, and installing the Poly Mounts with some Syncromesh Fluid.



Not really an upgrade but just some good ol fashioned blank brembo rotors up front



Installing the Helica LSD Transmission that I bought of UrbanDork thanks Craig!!...

and yea we didn't have a cherry picker so we went to home depot and bought some supplies hehe works just fine!







Inside the Transmission/Open Differential Hole that came stock on my Beams Transmission. which means I don't have helical LSD.



New S54 Transmission with Fitted MRS Helical LSD inside, you see the difference!!
on a side note is that how the angle of the engine mounts go right?



Take a look at my custom made downpipe, since the car didnt come with the stock one. doesn't even have a flex pipe.



Condition of my Front Motor Mount, which wasn't that bad :



Future Mod 2 Post Spoiler, that i took from the 94 Celica thats now at the junkyard RIP OLD Celi


Posted by: SwissFerdi Apr 18, 2011 - 11:28 AM

Wow, I'd rather part it here than see my Celi go to the junkyard, that's heart-breaking. In with the new, out with the old I guess. I like the progress, seems to be going smoothly. Best of luck.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Apr 18, 2011 - 5:54 PM

QUOTE (SwissFerdi @ Apr 18, 2011 - 12:28 PM) *
Wow, I'd rather part it here than see my Celi go to the junkyard, that's heart-breaking. In with the new, out with the old I guess. I like the progress, seems to be going smoothly. Best of luck.


I did part it out here and now that thread is closed. The car had been in my front yard for the past 4 months and it made the house look like crap...

Posted by: njccmd2002 Apr 19, 2011 - 7:45 PM

i dont see the difference in the trannys.

Posted by: mkernz22 Apr 19, 2011 - 7:53 PM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Apr 19, 2011 - 8:45 PM) *
i dont see the difference in the trannys.


i second that.

Posted by: S8S8 Apr 19, 2011 - 9:06 PM

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Apr 20, 2011 - 10:53 AM) *
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Apr 19, 2011 - 8:45 PM) *
i dont see the difference in the trannys.


i second that.


The first one (non-LSD) has a little bar which run across the hole. The second one doesn't have the bar.

Posted by: mkernz22 Apr 19, 2011 - 9:13 PM

ohhh! I just thought that was the light / flash getting cut off haha :facepalm:

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Apr 23, 2011 - 9:03 PM

ok update my helical LSD Transmission, timken wheel bearings and kirkausous motor mounts are installed. Hopefully I can get exhaust installed tomorrow!!! A quick question as regards to the gearing? From what I understood the gearing for USDM and JDM S54 transmission's are all the same right? I was only able to hit 85mph at 7,000 rpm which is unusual because i should be able to go close to 91mph in 3rd gear right??? Do you guys think I might need to recalibrate my speedometer??? heres is what my current setup looks like. Also what should my rpm be at while I'm going 80mph in 5th gear???



as you can see if have the USDM MPH Speedometer.

Gear Ratios for JDM S54:

3.285 * 4.176 = 2027.5 - 37 mph
1.960 * 4.176 = 1209.7 - 62 mph
1.322 * 4.176 = 815.9 - 91 mph
1.028 * 4.176 = 634.5 - 118 mph
0.820 * 4.176 = 506.1 - 147 mph

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Apr 26, 2011 - 2:14 AM

I currently have a restrictive exhaust, I'm running 2.25inch from oem b-pipe, to 2 inch piping with no catalytic converter and stock 5sfe resonator, then to 1.75 inch piping before I go over the rear axle and to the stock gt muffler.

On another note I'm running 91 octane (which is low grade octane and its the highest we have here in california = 95 ron) fuel for the high compression engine. Its like running 88 octane in an s2000 that requires minimum amount of fuel to be at 91 octane. Beams run at its best on 93/94 octane = 100 Ron fuel. how about cleaning my fuel injectors professionally???? are they hard to take out I know they only charge about $50 to get them cleaned. I also know that the shop that cleans them will give you a before and after of how the injectors performed. Testing Fuel Pressure at the rail?


Second I cannot hear if my engine is knocking or not because I have a short ram intake. When I last took out my spark plugs they all seemed to be in good shape. I believe I have oem ones, but I'm going to buy a set of NGK Iridium Plugs within the next week to be on the safe side. I did however compression test all 4 cylinders and they were all perfect except for the exception of one cylinder that was at 190psi. 190psi is still pretty darn close to 198.7psi.

What other factors should I take into consideration, or am I being paranoid? When I do install my 57mm exhaust I will be going under the axle and the exhaust will be crush bent.

Posted by: Euphoria Apr 26, 2011 - 5:38 AM

The fuel thing is a bit dodgy but I don't think it would make that HUGE a difference! here in Australia 91 is our lowest then 95, 98 and even the 5SFE doesn't run aswell with 91. Exhaust shouldn't restrict that much aswell!

You should of done a tune up before it went in plugs, leads, dizzy, rotor, fuel filter etc but unless they're completely had it they shouldn't cause too much of a power loss.

Saying all this, I recently bought a 4th gen for a project and that thing had NO torque down low but as soon as it was in high rpm it went well, they need to be revved!

Posted by: HectortheRican Apr 26, 2011 - 8:15 AM

I remember hearing somewhere that the stock BEAMS intake is better than any SRI and that you're better off just getting a high performance panel filter.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Apr 26, 2011 - 7:56 PM

no way man beams has 7 more pounds of torque than the 5sfe. I should be able to feel the torque down low. I'm not driving a torque less honda engine.

well I'll start off with what I know. Which is the exhaust, plugs and better fuel. I"ll just work my way from there. The guy already did a tune up before hand. I also already have a new walbro fuel pump. The previous owner also did all belts as well along with the tensioner too. I'm also throwing some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank while I'm at it. I'll be mixing 3 gallons of 100 octane with 9 gallons of 91 octane to get a near 94 octane mix =100 Ron. I"m probably losing 4-6 hp with the 95 ron gas.

I also still have to reset the ecu and air/fuel ratio once I fit the exhaust and put the plugs in! that should help as well. And yes I read that as well about a custom intake running a bit lean/rich.

Where are the other 6gc experts at I need their opinion in this as well! please

Posted by: Rusty Apr 27, 2011 - 1:38 AM

QUOTE (HectortheRican @ Apr 27, 2011 - 1:15 AM) *
I remember hearing somewhere that the stock BEAMS intake is better than any SRI and that you're better off just getting a high performance panel filter.


Agree with you on that, as the BEAMS maf sensor is very sensitive. Cone style filters cause a lot of turbulent airflow for the MAF.

Maybe put the factory intake back on, see if it imporves?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Apr 27, 2011 - 1:46 AM

QUOTE (Rusty @ Apr 27, 2011 - 2:38 AM) *
QUOTE (HectortheRican @ Apr 27, 2011 - 1:15 AM) *
I remember hearing somewhere that the stock BEAMS intake is better than any SRI and that you're better off just getting a high performance panel filter.


Agree with you on that, as the BEAMS maf sensor is very sensitive. Cone style filters cause a lot of turbulent airflow for the MAF.

Maybe put the factory intake back on, see if it imporves?


I was reading that it makes the beams run lean up top, but my piping is the same as stock size piping. 71mm inside diameter piping. I made a mistake and sold it to some guy here in Northern California to make a quick buck woops. I shud of kept it and tested it first. Oh well.... kindasad.gif

Posted by: delusionz Apr 27, 2011 - 2:40 PM

that exhaust will definitely help, the factory 3s-ge exhaust is 2" not 1.75

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Apr 30, 2011 - 11:47 PM

update new viper alarm 3303 fitted and under the axle 57mm magnaflow exhaust fitted

downgrade: Fuel line Banjo to fuel rail is leaking fuel, and my Air/Fuel Ratio I believe is still way off...

When I did the compression test 3 months ago all the cylinders read 198 psi except for the far left one that read at 190 psi. I was thinking about doing a leak down test, but was then advised by urbandork that it wouldn't be necessary since all the pistons are already near perfect.

Posted by: SupraKid May 1, 2011 - 12:09 AM

Unhook the battery for 10 minutes, hook it back up, start the car and let it idle for 5 minutes, then go drive it like you would normally so the ECU can set everything up. Do you have any problems that are leading you to think you may have bad compression?

Posted by: delusionz May 1, 2011 - 12:10 AM

Just disconnect battery for 15 mins to reset ecu.

also, did you figure anything out with the gearing?

Basically you should get approx 10km/h extra out of each gear with the extra redline.

Based on a JDM 3S-GE Celica with S54-06D LSD FWD Transmission with a factory tyre size 215/50R16 you should get on your speedo:

At 100km/h (62mph) you should have 3200RPM in 5th gear, 4000 in 4th gear, 5000 in 3rd gear.

At 110km/h (68mph) you should have 3400RPM in 5th gear, 4200 in 4th gear, 5200 in 3rd gear.


Based on some of my old dash cam vids. Expect 80mph to be high in the revs, We don't have speed limits that high in this part of the world.


Max speeds at 7000 were (approximately):

1st: 58km/h (36mph)
2nd: 98km/h (60)
3rd: 144km/h (89)
4th: don't max it out often enough to remember exactly, somewhere around 180km/h - 195km/h
5th: are you insane?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 1, 2011 - 1:57 AM

andrew read my above post. I did the compression test right when I got the car and they cylinders were fine. I'll get a video of me topping out 1st-3rd gear. I have 205/45R16 tires btw.

Oh another question is the ST and GT Fuel line that feeds from the fuel filter to the Fuel Rail is the same part???

Posted by: delusionz May 1, 2011 - 6:15 AM

The SS-II used 205/50R16 and the SS-III used 215/50R16 factory fitment (or equiv rolling diameter)

So whichever car your gearbox speed sender came from (either the SS-II beams clip from the original swap or the SS-III LSD transmission swap) your speedo will be over-reading what you're actually doing either a little bit or alot. If you are using the speedo sender from the original USDM car and are running the same rolling diameter then it will be closer to accurate.

However with your current tyre size I have a feeling you will be going about ~3mph slower than reported per 60mph.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 1, 2011 - 3:47 PM

the gt that I know own used to be a automatic transmission. I'm pretty sure that all beams came with the 5 spoke white 15x7 rims whether it was SS-II or SS-III. The transmission I currently have which has a MR-S Helical LSD inside is from a USDM S54. The transmission that the beams came with and the current s54 helical lsd that i have on my car right now should have the same speed sensor. I don't ever remember seeing any beams SS-III fitted with the 6 spoke 16 inch wheels.


ahaha I think I figured it out!!! hehe thanks to another beams member. check out this link, its from last section down from november 2005 and down

http://billzilla.org/AE863SGE.htm

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 5, 2011 - 7:51 PM

exhaust pics! it sounds alright I have a 18 inch glass pack resonator. Its more performance than sound; But I'll have the exhaust system I want by the end of this year.




Posted by: TRD-Corolla May 8, 2011 - 5:00 AM

the straw technique might work for you, but i wonder how much it's restricting airflow. Try cleaning your MAF, IAC, throttle body/valve, make sure everything is plugged in/no vacuum leak. OR re-positioning of the MAF sensor. I think I missed it but all this happened after installing an after-market intake system with a cone filter?

Posted by: Tony-B May 8, 2011 - 6:41 PM

80 MPH in 5th gear should just be around 4500rpm, maybe less i think. I haven't been on a motorway in a while.

The dreaded MAF!!!

I hope you get this sorted, torque in the beams is grand i find. Not turbo like or anything but 5th gear overtaking feels nice biggrin.gif

T

Posted by: njccmd2002 May 8, 2011 - 8:03 PM

QUOTE (TRD-Corolla @ May 8, 2011 - 5:00 AM) *
the straw technique might work for you, but i wonder how much it's restricting airflow. Try cleaning your MAF, IAC, throttle body/valve, make sure everything is plugged in/no vacuum leak. OR re-positioning of the MAF sensor. I think I missed it but all this happened after installing an after-market intake system with a cone filter?


that pipe was mine and mine was running fine, the ecu might need a reset.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 9, 2011 - 3:36 AM

QUOTE (TRD-Corolla @ May 8, 2011 - 5:00 AM) *
the straw technique might work for you, but i wonder how much it's restricting airflow. Try cleaning your MAF, IAC, throttle body/valve, make sure everything is plugged in/no vacuum leak. OR re-positioning of the MAF sensor. I think I missed it but all this happened after installing an after-market intake system with a cone filter?


I'll check all the vacuum lines. Today after getting an aligned, it is getting closer and closer to dieing. The car's idle drops to about 500rpm and its getting worse and worse by the day. I'm cleaning that thing next and that could be my solution to my sluggish pedal feel?? In first gear it pulls nicely and my dirty Idle Speed/air Control Valve could also be the reason as to why my rpm gauge is off??? At 116 mph on the speedo, the speed cut limiter cuts off fuel to the engine. All JDM motors cut off at 111mph so I know my speedometer is off! Another thing is that at 105 mph my rpm are at 5,600rpm or something like that, I'll have to get video. RPM are a bit high wouldn't you say??? I know that 4th gear goes to 118mph, but I had to shift into 5th gear before Or else I wouldn't have been able to hit 111mph speed cut limiter in 4th gear. I'm using a usdm s54 speed sensor. maybe I need a new one or just calibrate my speedometer??

I did already reset the ecu and its running much better. On another Note I put in 4 gallons of 100 octane and about 9 gallons of 91 octane. that gave me a mixed octane rating of about/near 94 octane = 100 ron.

Yes Tony-B, torque should be pretty good but I'm finding lag in the throttle. how the hell do you adjust the throttle cable to make it tighter??? I was only able to adjust the cable so that it controls how high my idle is when I have the car in neutral. thanks guys for taking such interest in my thread I appreciate it. I thought my thread was just another thread. Jeez i love 6gc member biggrin.gif

QUOTE (Tony-B @ May 8, 2011 - 6:41 PM) *
80 MPH in 5th gear should just be around 4500rpm, maybe less i think. I haven't been on a motorway in a while.

The dreaded MAF!!!

I hope you get this sorted, torque in the beams is grand i find. Not turbo like or anything but 5th gear overtaking feels nice biggrin.gif

T


can you get some video you cruising at 80mph in 5th gear and you topping out 3rd gear please!! Since you have all stock/factory installed engine. Mine was done by some tuning shop.

Posted by: delusionz May 9, 2011 - 3:57 AM

My speed limiter on both SS-III and GT4 cars was 200kph

Google tells us thats 200 kph = 124.274238 mph

Posted by: Tony-B May 17, 2011 - 2:56 PM

Was just on a motorway there on Sunday.

Motorway speed limit is 120Kph, Beams does this in 5th gear at 3,600rpm. To do third gear top outs on most of the roads around me would be suicide, plus, my wife is a fox I dont want to die. The next time i'm on a decent/flat/straight/uncambered road i'll see what i can do.

The throttle cable is tightened the same way you tightened your brakes on your BMX fado fado, I think.

Your exhaust looks like it could be strangling your engine maybe??

T

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 17, 2011 - 6:45 PM

Ya dont forget deluzionz that mine came off an SS-II celica. But ya when i was trying to top out the car i only got to 190km/h on my
Speedometer, which seems quite off dont u think. That is when my fuel cut was turned on. I shud gps my speed next time.

How does my beams cluster read the rpm signal from the engine?

Naw tony b ive got a new 57mm full exhaust system now! So thats def not the problem. If i dont get my stock intake box back
Then im borrowing my friends aem wideband to monitor my air/ fuel ratios

Posted by: Rusty May 18, 2011 - 2:01 AM

the higher the speed, the less accurate the speedometer becomes.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 18, 2011 - 2:20 AM

QUOTE (Rusty @ May 18, 2011 - 3:01 AM) *
the higher the speed, the less accurate the speedometer becomes.


yes I know but it being off about 8mph when I'm only going about 100 mph seems way off. Even my stock st wasn't off by that much. oh well it doesn't concern me that much but how do I know that my rpm gauge is correct??

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 31, 2011 - 3:32 AM

update : swapped out the trunk from previous celica and put on my two post spoiler with replica riser blocks. Is it me or does the spoiler/gt4 make it look super huge. I agree that it flows well with the trd splitters. Even if I were to cut down the riser blocks a few inches I wouldn't be able to see thru my rear view mirror !!! frown.gif

And please tell me what you guys think, my 16 inch rims look quite small don't they. the rims looked better on my previous celica that had no sideskirts or splitters, but with my current GT-4 setup it just makes the 16 inch rims look small right??







how do you like my primered fender huh ha, one can of paint isn't enough, I ran out of paint kindasad.gif



oh and a broken/scratched tail light that came with the car when I bought it mad.gif

Posted by: mak5603 May 31, 2011 - 11:51 AM

Psh, you can still see out the window, just the tops a little cut off, all you gotta do Is duck your head a little haha laugh.gif.

I agree with what you are saying about the wheels, 17's would look nice.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 31, 2011 - 12:25 PM

noo I mean I want to cut down my riser blocks down to a smaller size like this in the future after I repaint the car :


Posted by: Celicaswift May 31, 2011 - 12:54 PM

This is a friend of mine from the Netherlands.
These blocks are custom made​​. I think this is slightly better.

Posted by: Tony-B May 31, 2011 - 1:08 PM

I think the wheels look ok, it's just the arch gap throwing you off. A wee bit of drop and a wee bit of spacering and you'll be grand

T

Posted by: mak5603 May 31, 2011 - 1:09 PM

Oh, I gotcha. Yeah that would look sweet but for sure block some vision, haha.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 31, 2011 - 1:48 PM

QUOTE (Tony-B @ May 31, 2011 - 2:08 PM) *
I think the wheels look ok, it's just the arch gap throwing you off. A wee bit of drop and a wee bit of spacering and you'll be grand

T


ya but I won't be able to lower the car anymore unless I get some coilovers. I'd rather get polyurethane bushings and sway bar links before that. And buying some larger spacers would cost more money. I currently have 10mm spacers. So i'm at +32 offset, for some reason my rear end on my previous st celica was lower in the rear with the same exact suspension set up???? rolleyes.gif

Posted by: HectortheRican May 31, 2011 - 2:07 PM

Another option is the Eurou style blocks

http://www.kamikaze.com.hk/product.php?id_product=76

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 31, 2011 - 2:30 PM

QUOTE (HectortheRican @ May 31, 2011 - 3:07 PM) *
Another option is the Eurou style blocks

http://www.kamikaze.com.hk/product.php?id_product=76


naw dude i've been over this before in another post. Euro blocks does not angle the spoiler forward like the oem gt4/ss3 riser blocks do, the angle of the spoiler gives the celica a more aggressive look.

Posted by: RabidTRD May 31, 2011 - 5:53 PM

I never really liked the look of the riser blocks and I don't see the purpose if you're not AWD. I'd say just stick with the perfectly designed 94-95 style spoiler.

Do you really feel a difference in airflow at high speeds?

Posted by: sunwukongg May 31, 2011 - 6:34 PM

leave your riser blocks! keep the gt4 look! i freakin love it! just give it new wheels and a bit lower drop! smile.gif

your car is coming along very well man!

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 31, 2011 - 8:12 PM

QUOTE (RabidTRD @ May 31, 2011 - 5:53 PM) *
I never really liked the look of the riser blocks and I don't see the purpose if you're not AWD. I'd say just stick with the perfectly designed 94-95 style spoiler.

Do you really feel a difference in airflow at high speeds?


Ya i was never really fond of thr whole gt4 look unless the car was an actual gt4. I dont think the spoiler serves as a purpose unless the rear roof spoiler was fitted. The spoiler wud look better if my car was all one color no doubt. So for now I just might remove the riser blocks n leave it like that.

Posted by: delusionz Jun 1, 2011 - 7:16 PM

I just had another thought for your lack of power complaint, are you even revving to 7000?

the 9000 rpm tachometer sort of ends around the same place as the 8000rpm tachometer, the numbers are closer together so when your hitting the 7000 according to your dash it may only be around 5800 - 6000rpm.

if you rev it up to the limiter, just see what point on the gauge it bounces at, it should be either 7000rpm or 7200rpm at the cutoff point (can't remember 3SGE, I know 3SGTE is 7200).

the way the UK guys do it is to use/wire in the entire JDM cluster, put an MPH sticker over the KM/H lettering and then use a 1.6 divider speed signal adjuster so that the speedo and odometers tick over in miles, it also raises the speed cut limit from 200KM/H to effectively 200MPH

Posted by: TRD-Corolla Jun 1, 2011 - 9:49 PM

you can't go wrong with either the gt-four raise blocks or the ss-iii ones, either one looks good IMO. Also, these cars look a lot better with 17"+ rims smile.gif

edited: any updates on that maf?

.
.
.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 2, 2011 - 3:34 AM

i'll get some video footage of me topping out 4th gear yes I know I said it. Its a must so you guys know what I'm talking about, I wonder if my 4th and 5th gears are shorter?? 4th gear reaches 108mph on the speedo which was less than my previous ST Celica in the same gear. I'll also rev all the way upp to redline.

I have beams tachometer and the rpm gauge with a speed signal thing that converts it to mph. Not entirely sure on how the guys did that since the car already came that way. Cut off for beams motor is 7,450 rpm.

As far as the MAF resetting the ecu did help with about 10hp. It just such a shame we only get 95 ron as our top best gas here in CA and all other states get 98 ron.... So buying that race fuel to mix with 95 ron is somewhat expensive. I should be getting my original intake back soon from what the guy told me, he just has to do smog with it. I did put a screen door mesh in front of the maf but it still feels the same. I just need my dyno results. No fun either cause I lost my job on friday so I'm trying to figure out where my income will come from.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 2, 2011 - 3:37 AM

when I do get my stock intake box back what drop in filter would you suggest for under $40??? I used to have the K&N but brand new that costs $55.

Posted by: RabidTRD Jun 2, 2011 - 11:06 AM

I've got connections. I may be able to hook you up with a K&N for around $40.


Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 2, 2011 - 3:04 PM

QUOTE (RabidTRD @ Jun 2, 2011 - 12:06 PM) *
I've got connections. I may be able to hook you up with a K&N for around $40.


I saw one last night for $42 shipped and its still listed on ebay.

Posted by: mkernz22 Jun 2, 2011 - 10:19 PM

How do you top in 4th gear? lol my 5th gear tops at about a grand from the redline! but I'm going to install a switch for the speed sensor so it tricks the ecu & etc. haha

Posted by: mak5603 Jun 2, 2011 - 10:23 PM

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jun 2, 2011 - 8:19 PM) *
How do you top in 4th gear?


You launch in first, shift to second, shift to third, shift to fourth and pull to the top of fourth. Pretty simple procedure.

Posted by: TRD-Corolla Jun 2, 2011 - 11:19 PM

try re-positioning the maf

also, it's pretty common to lose some low-end torque after installing a cone filter. However, you gain a little bit more at top to compensate.

Posted by: SupraKid Jun 4, 2011 - 1:16 PM

QUOTE (mak5603 @ Jun 2, 2011 - 8:23 PM) *
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jun 2, 2011 - 8:19 PM) *
How do you top in 4th gear?


You launch in first, shift to second, shift to third, shift to fourth and pull to the top of fourth. Pretty simple procedure.

Wait wait wait I'm confused, what do I do between 2nd to 3rd again? laugh.gif

Posted by: delusionz Jun 4, 2011 - 7:42 PM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 2, 2011 - 8:34 PM) *
I have beams tachometer and the rpm gauge with a speed signal thing that converts it to mph. Not entirely sure on how the guys did that since the car already came that way. Cut off for beams motor is 7,500 rpm.


It's actually 7200, so if you can see the needle reach 7500 then as I was saying your tach isn't calibrated properly.

So when you think you're revving to 4000 and hitting the powerband, your actually not.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 9, 2011 - 5:23 PM

here you go delusionz im not redlining my gears as I'll make a video for that later. But tell me if you notice how off my speedometer is. I'm in 5th Gear

http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=VIDEO0002.mp4

here is a youtube video so you can compare. note the rpm gauge.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrTfiXIddls

Posted by: Rusty Jun 10, 2011 - 9:37 PM

You said it yourself you are using a S54 transmission with a MR-S LSD, so you are changing the final drive ratio.

Thats why at 4,000rpm your doing 123km/h and the youtube one is doing 141km/h.


Posted by: mkernz22 Jun 10, 2011 - 9:50 PM

QUOTE (mak5603 @ Jun 2, 2011 - 11:23 PM) *
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jun 2, 2011 - 8:19 PM) *
How do you top in 4th gear?


You launch in first, shift to second, shift to third, shift to fourth and pull to the top of fourth. Pretty simple procedure.


I thought he meant that his car tops out in 4th gear, as in 5th gear does nothing speed wise. I was confused at first

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 10, 2011 - 10:53 PM

Rusty say whatt??!! now you've totally confused me???

Where did you get that conclusion from??? My speed signal is broken or whatever converts the km/h to mph could be screwed up. That makes no sense 30 km/h in first gear is like 15 mph???!!!!

Both you and I know that all SS-III Celica came with a Helical LSD which is the same exact setup that I had. And all the time I've been here on the site I've never read any different specs on the Final Drive Gear for SS-III Celica's or that installing an helical lsd would change my final drive?

Posted by: Rusty Jun 10, 2011 - 11:23 PM

on page 3 you said

QUOTE
New S54 Transmission with Fitted MRS Helical LSD

so you have an MR-S LSD not a SS-III LSD.


I chose 4,000rpm as the 'max rpm' in this case, as you and the other guy both did that rpm in your videos. In your video at 4,000rpm (in 5th gear) you were doing 123km/h. In the youtube video when he was at 4,000rpm (in 5th gear)he was doing 141km/h.
You have a different final gear ratio to the SS-III.


yes you can do 30km/h in first at 4,000rpm.

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 11, 2011 - 3:53 PM) *
Rusty say whatt??!!

ok... whatt lol smile.gif

Posted by: urbandork Jun 11, 2011 - 12:31 AM

QUOTE (Rusty @ Jun 10, 2011 - 7:37 PM) *
You said it yourself you are using a S54 transmission with a MR-S LSD, so you are changing the final drive ratio.

Thats why at 4,000rpm your doing 123km/h and the youtube one is doing 141km/h.



the s54 he is running a stock s54 ring and pinion. All that was changed out was the dif. I know this because he bought my transmission.

im the guy who did the write up on the mrS lsd diff in an s54 and here is the thread on it. Along with links where i got all my info from

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=47687&hl=s54+lsd

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 11, 2011 - 7:39 PM

Im Afraid you may be right Rusty, here is some video footage! I think I do have a 4.529 final drive gear ratio.

http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=1stGear.mp4

http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=2ndand3rdGear.mp4

Posted by: RabidTRD Jun 11, 2011 - 10:24 PM

God that thing sounds beautiful, regardless of what ratio you have.

Posted by: Edophus Jun 18, 2011 - 6:14 PM

hmm not sure what could be your issue, the fuel is an obvious one, as would be a longer final drive, but not a lot you can do about that, the intake is another, without your stock airbox not much you can do about that either lol. I know you and your freinds car feel different have you compared( not raced) them to see if there is a difference? remember what you feel is the change in torque rather than constant torque and the beams has a more even and flatter torque curve so you could feel less despite it being faster. The mr2 beams airbox had a revision the celica never did to my knowlodge to help with the maf, so even on the stock box there can still be issues, good old maf, achilles heal of the beams.

are you getting a nice surge around 4000rpm? or is the midrange quite flat and constant. really the only thing you can do is get it on a dyno and see what your a/f is anything up till then is clutching at straws.


oh and agreed that is a fine sounding car, would sound termandous revving out to just over 8000rpm biggrin.gif bit like its eating the road.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 19, 2011 - 8:10 AM

ahh yea crummy 95 octane. Well with a 4.529 final drive, I will gain more torque right??? Another thing I'm a bit dissatisfied is with my current gearing. only 85 vs 91 mph in 3rd gear. My 4th gear does top out at 107mph in 4th gear, weak!! My top speed has been knocked down a whole 12 mph. I read something on beams forums that the Redtop motor will still produce peak power until 8,000 rpm. The member Protok has a video floating somewhere on youtube of him taking his ST202 to 8 grand. So does this mean you can do it on a stock ecu or does it have to be standalone?? what do you know about 8k on Redtop Motor?? So here's my way of fixing that in the future sometime:



My MAF has a few tricks up my sleeve. Hopefully that will all get sorted out by Thursday or even by Wednesday. Torque actually seems pretty good I think, but ya Dyno Test for sure.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 26, 2011 - 6:15 PM

I'm trying to sort out my Air/Fuel Ratio's at the moment with Derrick's AEM Wideband sensor and Honeycomb Airflow Straighteners. Hopefully I can get my hands on an oem Intake box within the next week. Once I get a sensible Air/Fuel Ratio readings, I'll fill up the car with racing fuel and make some video's!! jobless atm

Posted by: Batman722 Jun 26, 2011 - 7:42 PM

I haven't kept up on this thread, what kind of A/F problems have you been having ?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 26, 2011 - 10:11 PM

wide open throttle at 7,000 rpm is at 11.4 Ratio.... Wideband sensor is installed behind steering rack/subframe. I know its a bit away down the system, but it was the best place I could put it at. My whole exhaust is one piece from the downpipe back. At cruising speed it fluctuates from 14.1 to 15.2 ratio.

Posted by: Batman722 Jun 26, 2011 - 10:16 PM

sounds normal.
I had a wideband on my 5s and that's totally normal with that motor.
If you think you're too rich, put the OEM fuel pump back in, the walbro pushes way too much.
I had put one in my 5s when I was going to turbo (instead went 3s) and it was super rich.

Posted by: delusionz Jun 27, 2011 - 12:07 AM

time 4 turbo beams with aftermarket ecu? biggrin.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 27, 2011 - 12:54 AM

hmm you mean sounds normal with my walbro fuel pump or sounds normal for the beams engine?? I was going to originally buy an oem fuel pump, but I thought the beams and 5s were different. I was going to go with the walbro 190lph When I bought the walbro, I bought it because I thought the more the better. I never had in mind to turbo the beams motor at all. I love the sound on the N/A and quick response.

I would indeed love to turbo my motor but with stock internals. I know I would have to run boost at 6-7psi max and then it would only be a matter of time before I would blow my seals on the pistons right??? Not to turbo savvy. If I were to turbo the beams motor I wouldn't want more than 40 hp and 40 pounds of torque at the crank. Preferably about 30 hp and 30 ft lbs torque would be better. Any more than than and I would just be waiting it spinning my tires.

I'm running on 95ron = 91 octane and I know for a fact that my engine is retarding timing. Is this another cause of my rich air/fuel ratio's???

Posted by: Fr3AkAzOiD Jun 27, 2011 - 8:12 PM

If you wanted turbo you shouldn't have gotten a BEAMS.

You just have some bugs to work out to get it running right.
You should probably get it on a dyno to see where you are standing.
Malfunctioning sensors are a nightmare, hopefully it's something simply like your SRI creating turbulent air.

Best of luck.

Posted by: delusionz Jun 27, 2011 - 9:33 PM

Lol, Screw the bugs, spending time and money just to get stock worrking correctly, may aswell go straight for the best possible setup, make it a project car rather than putting it on just DD duties. Beams engine with small turbo, map sensor conversion & ecu. Keep your VVT-i and run 10 pounds on a peashooter like a T28.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 27, 2011 - 10:51 PM

QUOTE (Fr3AkAzOiD @ Jun 27, 2011 - 8:12 PM) *
If you wanted turbo you shouldn't have gotten a BEAMS.

You just have some bugs to work out to get it running right.
You should probably get it on a dyno to see where you are standing.
Malfunctioning sensors are a nightmare, hopefully it's something simply like your SRI creating turbulent air.

Best of luck.


ya I want to fix my current problem right now. And then get it on a dyno. My plans was never to have turbo celica. I love the N/A sound! Its my only car that I have, my other daily driver could possibly be a honda 80cc scooter. I wouldn't want my celica to only be a project car. I would love to switch it to map right about now!! Oh well all in good time, just have to be patient.

I would like the specs to be of a beams blacktop with a standalone ecu. So basically I would love an additional 20 hp in N/A form.

Posted by: epocsirhc Jun 28, 2011 - 12:48 AM

Lol your beams sounds similar to my Si....

I'd love to know how you smogged your celica with the current setup. Must have a good friend.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 12, 2011 - 1:21 PM

fyi, my beams was coughing and loosing power, slapped a new afm and now is all good, im using 93 octane here, and with the oem pump.... you are too rich.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 12, 2011 - 1:38 PM

disappointment discovery over the past couple of days. I went to 76 gas station for A. You can get free gas for life if you fill up with 10 gal or more and use a scratcher to see if you won any prizes. B. Mix 100 octane racing Fuel with 91 octane and I've achieved a very solid 93 octane mixture.

Turns out I'm still running rich!! mad.gif Basically the same readings as when I was using 91 octane. So I'm getting two sides to the story. Batman says I'm fine and you say Im rich??? I thought, that with the 91 octane I was running rich because ecu was retarding timing and sending more fuel into my pistons. uggh what a drag. My next step is to buy the two 1 inch honeycomb filter, taping them together and installing them in front of the MAF Sensor. I'm also going to check pressure at the fuel rail....

Oh Norberto, so you bought a brand new MAF Sensor??

Posted by: Batman722 Jul 12, 2011 - 5:03 PM

you are running a little rich.

Few solutions:
Put the OEM fp back in
Use a stock airbox.

what do you think the A/F should be ?

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 12, 2011 - 6:43 PM

i had an extra afm at home. Then i cleaned the old one with carburetor cleaner...

put the oem pump back.... listen to the caped guy!!!

seriously the beams runs well on the oem pump. Ill take a video of mine tomorrow...

Stop measuring the A/F ratio for now.. and start with the pump...

I love driving my BEAMs you should too. Start with the simple things....

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 12, 2011 - 7:05 PM

QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jul 12, 2011 - 6:03 PM) *
you are running a little rich.

Few solutions:
Put the OEM fp back in. Sounds good to me uhh I think I threw that fuel pump away or it must be in my old celica that got taken to the junkyard. Oh and btw the ST and GT use the same fuel pump right??? I should of tested the old one to make sure it was running at 100% before I bought and installed the walbro pump
Use a stock airbox. Ya you already know I'm in dire need of this.

I just thought the 5SFE/7AFe had a different fuel pump from the Beams motor mad.gif Mehh I should of researched that.

what do you think the A/F should be ?


I got this from an actual tuner place that posts on honda tech:

Back to the original question of what a/f is good for n/a tuning, i have found anywhere in the range of 12.8~14:1 to be sufficient. What i typically do with n/a cars is run them at various target a/f's under wot on the dyno. So from 12:5:1, 13:1, 13.5:1 and 14:1. I measure the torque production from each a/f. I compare each torque curve at the various a/f levels, and see where the engine likes to make peak torque. At resonance points, and different areas in the rpm band the engine typically likes different a/f values. I have been able to pick up 3-5 ft-lbs of torque in various parts of the rpm band by doing this.

Posted by: Batman722 Jul 12, 2011 - 10:50 PM

first thing, I told you on page 1 the US celica pump is the same on the Beams, you even quoted me.

ok, so what do you think your A/F ratio should be (for your Beams more specificaly) ?

do you think the Beams (or any stock motor) is tuned to the highest torque curve for every rpm band ?

If you really think it is, then why the f would most of the beams MR2 guys use safc/neos or simple piggybacks for tuning ?

It's a stock motor, stock tune, it runs rich. Take out the wideband because having a wideband on an n/a motor without any sort of reason to have it (like a piggyback or ems) is useless.

Posted by: czwalga Jul 16, 2011 - 4:32 PM

QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jul 12, 2011 - 10:50 PM) *
first thing, I told you on page 1 the US celica pump is the same on the Beams, you even quoted me.

ok, so what do you think your A/F ratio should be (for your Beams more specificaly) ?

do you think the Beams (or any stock motor) is tuned to the highest torque curve for every rpm band ?

If you really think it is, then why the f would most of the beams MR2 guys use safc/neos or simple piggybacks for tuning ?

It's a stock motor, stock tune, it runs rich. Take out the wideband because having a wideband on an n/a motor without any sort of reason to have it (like a piggyback or ems) is useless.




Pretty much agree. Get it on the dyno if you really want to find out, but I have a feeling its fine you were just expecting more.

You have it backwards, you want to fix the problem and get it on the dyno. Should be the other way get it on the dyno to see if you have a problem. Why guess when you can just find out...


Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 21, 2011 - 3:46 AM

well I mixed a near perfect 94 octane fuel in the car about a week or so ago. Then ordered two of the same diameter, but longer in length honeycomb filters. Stuck them together with duck tape, and put them inside the intake like so:





I thought the low fuel had to be one of the reason to me running rich but actually had nothing to do with after all. I shortly noticed this about 30 min after filling up with the racing fuel frown.gif So I installed the honeycomb filter which happens to stick about 1 cm in front of the AFM Sensor, reset the ecu and went for a drive. Unsatisfying results as my air/fuel ratio was indeed at the same... One thing that did get better was my idle. I no longer have a rough idle and it stayed at a constant 800rpm for at least 2 minutes biggrin.gif

Now onto checking fuel pressure which should be anywhere between 38-44psi and if that fails me, then off to finding an oem fuel pump...

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 21, 2011 - 9:34 AM

got a question, what did u do with this sensor...



since u dont have the original oem intake

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 21, 2011 - 12:45 PM

I'm at a loss for words. But what the hell is that. It must of been stuck to the intake??

Also I need to weld a bung to my intake piping, where can I take it? an exhaust shop??? So I can reconnect the exhaust crank case vent hose.

Posted by: Batman722 Jul 21, 2011 - 12:53 PM

that's a vaccum sensor for the charcoal canister.
the beams only has 2 or 3 vac lines, that's 2 of them. From the TB to the sensor to the canister.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 21, 2011 - 7:39 PM

thats another sensor missing.. then... did you plug those lines or would it cause a leak?

Posted by: delusionz Jul 21, 2011 - 11:19 PM

that looks more like a vacuum solenoid valve than a sensor to me

Posted by: delusionz Jul 22, 2011 - 12:18 AM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Apr 27, 2011 - 12:56 PM) *
no way man beams has 7 more pounds of torque than the 5sfe. I should be able to feel the torque down low. I'm not driving a torque less honda engine!!


7ftlbs is f**k all. you could offset 7ftlbs by what you had for lunch.


QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jul 22, 2011 - 5:45 AM) *
Also I need to weld a bung to my intake piping, where can I take it? an exhaust shop??? So I can reconnect the exhaust crank case vent hose.


you never told us that... with the oil breathers you either have all of them plugged in or none at all, best bet is to run both to a catch can. having the pcv plugged in without the breather will throw AFR's off with a MAF sensor

as with the idler tube, has to be plugged in..

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 22, 2011 - 8:20 PM

Yes my pcv has always been plugged into the intake manifold.


Well I got quoted $25 to weld the exhaust side breather into the aluminum intake piping. Thought it through and thought wait it will be permanently on their. So I dug through some boxes of extra hardware I had in my garage and got these results:






Air to Fuel Ratio still the same as before I installed the honeycomb filter and fitted the exhaust breather hose. Starting to suspect that its the fuel pump, still have to test the pressure before making assumptions, but as Batman (since he knows way more than I do). Should be obtaining my oem intake sometime within the next 2 weeks biggrin.gif as well as with the idler tube!!

Can someone get me a picture of the idler tube connected on their car please. I ask this because I don't see any extra plugs laying near the throttle body???

Posted by: Batman722 Jul 22, 2011 - 8:52 PM



that's it right there.
It goes from the trottle body to the valve then to the canister.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 22, 2011 - 10:13 PM



but since it interferes with the brake reservoir..


i made a bracket...'


Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 23, 2011 - 6:44 PM

I checked my engine bay the other day and yes I do have that Vaccuum Switch Valve present on my engine. It's attached onto the chassis of the car with a bracket as well.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 24, 2011 - 12:22 AM

why make it so complicated, attach sensor and put oem pump and test the car... You keep talking about the air fuel ratio, i never even close had problems with that.

Stop reinventing the wheel, just do what Dustin tells you and go from there...

all beams are equal, mine is not special, i dont need that honeycomb crap, a/f measurement and ****. you keep wasting your money like that, keep it simple...

Posted by: TRD-Corolla Jul 25, 2011 - 4:31 AM

you dont need that vsv valve, it's for the charcoal canister, if you remove ur charcoal canister, u can just unplug everything from and to the vsv, plug from the TB as well. That's what I did to mine, and the vsv is just hanging there, i havn't had time to completely remove it yet.

Have you replaced your fuel filter yet? It's a good idea to replace ur fuel filter because when I replaced mine, I learned that the previous owner used a bolt that was too long and restricted fuel flow from the lines.

As for the intake, i was gonna tell you this earlier, but i agree with the guy above my post, you dont need that crap. Here's the secret, it's about maf placement. If u look at bill sherwoods ae86 beams blacktop, he repositioned his maf from his original spot. wink.gif

Lastly, pay the $50 bucks to have a shop dyno ur car! smile.gif They'll tell you everything wrong with ur car forsure!

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 27, 2011 - 1:14 PM

ya someone else on beams forums mentioned as well that the vsv valve wasn't important at all. The owner said he already replaced the fuel filter. Placement of the MAF??? He had straws right before the MAF Sensor which is the same set up that I have right now.

I rented a Fuel Pressure Gauge. I connected the fuel pressure gauge to the top of the fuel filter along with the banjo line. Put a paper clip in the diagnostic box where the fp and +b terminals are. Turned the ignition to the on position but didnt get a reading on the fuel pressure gauge. What am I doing wrong!! I didnt test to see if there was 12 volts on the battery. That shouldn't really matter right?? I don't have a multi meter by the way.

Posted by: epocsirhc Jul 30, 2011 - 1:24 AM

How can you expect to diagnose without a dvom? Did you smell gas when you were testing? It might be possible you didn't tighten the banjo down or some aliens are messing with you...

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 6, 2011 - 3:58 AM

QUOTE (epocsirhc @ Jul 30, 2011 - 1:24 AM) *
How can you expect to diagnose without a dvom? Did you smell gas when you were testing? It might be possible you didn't tighten the banjo down or some aliens are messing with you...


naw I didnt smell gas. I already have local 6gc member helping me out with the fuel pressure issue

oh update more for bragging rights:

I bought my car for only $600!!

Had payment (interest free) plan with my grandma for 5 years. So I paid her a few times, lost my job, then last saturday she told me she would give it to me as a gift since my bro and my cousin got their cars for free as well. In exchange she wants me to figure out my schooling major asap as a return of payment!!! score biggrin.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 16, 2011 - 3:34 AM

okay so earlier today I went to the exhaust shop and they took out my old (no name brand) broken catalytic converter out and they replaced it with a straight pipe.

I took it out for a test drive right after and now my car is backfiring. I didn't see any flames, I was driving the car with my brother and we both heard the car backfire. I've read that it could be many different variables :

Its running rich (even though no ones knows exact stock beams air/fuel), but an 11 air/fuel ratio isn't that rich?
Ignition Timing??

Mainly just the fact that I removed the catalytic converter right? I get the backfire when I'm rev matching the engine to the transmission.

Posted by: SwissFerdi Aug 16, 2011 - 9:41 AM

Pardon me if I might be basic, but maybe you're just hearing a new pops and noises associated with the straight pipe, rather than misfiring.

Posted by: Smaay Aug 16, 2011 - 10:38 AM

if you wanted to turbo your GT, why didnt you come to me? dont you know that i pioneered the turbo 7th gen celica?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 16, 2011 - 12:13 PM

QUOTE (SwissFerdi @ Aug 16, 2011 - 9:41 AM) *
Pardon me if I might be basic, but maybe you're just hearing a new pops and noises associated with the straight pipe, rather than misfiring.


well ya that might be it. It didnt happened today as much. I guess its something that comes and goes. Since I couldn't find any topics about it: Today I was braking hard from 95-0 and again from 80-25mph. I started to notice a bit of brake fad right before getting to my house. When I got off from the car I noticed my front rotors were turning blue and the pads were smoking almost as if they were going to start a fire. I am using oem pads (without shims) and blank brembo rotors. Should I be concerned. Do the stock pads really heat up that fast. If so they wouldn't last more than 5 min on a racetrack.

Posted by: beams78 Aug 16, 2011 - 4:52 PM

time to upgrade to better brakes stock wont cut it and if you do plan on taking it to a racetrack you will need better ones believe me you wont want to experience them going out on you its not fun lol

Posted by: richee3 Sep 1, 2011 - 1:21 PM

$600 BEAMS? That's a steal. I'm glad you're getting the power you want out of it now thumbsup.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 7, 2011 - 2:54 AM

how would I go about centering my maf so that it sits directly center inside the intake housing?? The honeycomb filter in front didn't change the air/fuel ratio at all. I was told its all about placement. The HKS adapter has a 71mm inside diameter but it allows the MAF to sit smack dab in the middle of the intake piping. Current Setup:




Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 24, 2011 - 6:41 AM

hmm don't you just love OEM, I know I do. Got the air filter included for free smile.gif little modification to remove that big resonator box that detonates the noise and makes your oem intake quieter. Will also be putting back on aem air/fuel ratio to see to if I get a better mixture with the oem intake and more power. Oh how I hope!!






Posted by: njccmd2002 Sep 24, 2011 - 12:31 PM

where you score that.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 24, 2011 - 2:10 PM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 24, 2011 - 1:31 PM) *
where you score that.


the guy sold it back to me for the same price $80

Don't know if you've been following the intake pipe thread on beams forums. But richee already bought the top half of the redtop intake and will be mating it to the bottom portion of his 5sfe box. Vuala complete oem intake. Finally Cold Air intake on my celica haha

edit: what a pain in the butt, my throw out bearing is starting to wear out more and more. I misshifted 5-6 times last night. THen going into 3rd after that is starting to get harder and harder. Going to swap out final drive and lsd from current transmission and put it into the beams s54 transmission that came with the engine. Will have smoother gear changes as well due to low mileage transmission. $250 job that I'll have to swallow in the months to come.. ahhh fuueey.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Sep 24, 2011 - 9:11 PM

well, my beams will be for sale very soon, so it does not matter.

Posted by: ricochet1490 Sep 25, 2011 - 12:09 PM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 24, 2011 - 9:11 PM) *
well, my beams will be for sale very soon, so it does not matter.


WHY?!

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 25, 2011 - 4:08 PM

QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Sep 25, 2011 - 1:09 PM) *
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 24, 2011 - 9:11 PM) *
well, my beams will be for sale very soon, so it does not matter.


WHY?!


hey hey stay on topic laugh.gif he's doing an 2grfe swap thats why.

Posted by: ricochet1490 Sep 25, 2011 - 4:21 PM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Sep 25, 2011 - 5:08 PM) *
QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Sep 25, 2011 - 1:09 PM) *
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 24, 2011 - 9:11 PM) *
well, my beams will be for sale very soon, so it does not matter.


WHY?!


hey hey stay on topic laugh.gif he's doing an 2grfe swap thats why.

ahh - nice biggrin.gif

Posted by: Rusty Sep 26, 2011 - 12:02 AM

feel any different with the factory intake on now?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 26, 2011 - 1:23 AM

QUOTE (Rusty @ Sep 26, 2011 - 1:02 AM) *
feel any different with the factory intake on now?


uhh went for a drive after disconnecting the battery while I was installing intake. Noise levels are down a lot sounds like a factory car. Before the engine note was louder than the exhaust. Power delivery is smoother, a bit more torque down low. I don't think its as responsive up top??? Dyno is the only way to tell. I'll be putting the aem fuel ratio back on to see the difference.

Also trying to get a K&N or TRD Panel filter...

Posted by: RabidTRD Sep 26, 2011 - 4:20 PM

But engine noise and sucking and wining > quiet lol.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 1, 2011 - 2:11 AM

hehe some more testing. Bought this from a place that's called Rod Millen Motorsport. Piping is made out of a metal and then powder coated black. the results :


This also comes with a little gasket so air doesn't escape
















Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 1, 2011 - 12:23 PM

^^ ou know thats not the right diameter, so why even bother....

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 1, 2011 - 1:16 PM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Oct 1, 2011 - 1:23 PM) *
^^ ou know thats not the right diameter, so why even bother....


just cause it centers the maf sensor like the HKS does.

Posted by: stephen_lee Oct 2, 2011 - 10:11 AM

its gonna make ur car run rich

smaller diameter = greater air flow per unit area. since the maf only reads a small area it will get a false "higher airflow" reading

Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 2, 2011 - 5:19 PM

so whats wrong with the oem airbox? I guess you are looking at the beams as a strong powerplant but its not. There is no difference in gain from the one i sent you and the hks i have. I just got it for looks. Because its rare,and i only paid 50 bucks.

with that in mind, the adapter i was using was fine, my car ran fine. yes every now and then had a hiccup, but that was ok.

The beams is just another econobox engine, that has been tweaked, but it is still economy engine? or not? well i have to use premium gas. Cause regular dont cut it.

i just hope that you dont continue to spend money and end up in the same place as the beginning.

For those of those who read this, if you want power this is not the engine, as it gets old quick, and cannot be modified without serious cash.

This engine is an alternative with a little kick, and no turbo. Which i love and it does the job for me. Well for now...

Wish you good luck, and if you need help let me know. I can get you a pic of the maf on my hks adapter....


Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 2, 2011 - 7:27 PM

QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Oct 2, 2011 - 10:11 AM) *
its gonna make ur car run rich

smaller diameter = greater air flow per unit area. since the maf only reads a small area it will get a false "higher airflow" reading


The laws of fluid mechanics state that Q(flow)=V(centerline velocity)*A(cross sectional). The A of his current set up with the small D = 3564.7mm^2 . The A of the desired set up is 3959.2 mm^2 . it's 90% of the area. Assuming for instance the engine needs .5 m^3 of volume and we use the standard diameter for reference, it looks like

.5 m^3 = Vc * .003959m^2 where Vc = 126.288 m/s
What we find from fluid mechanics as well is that the velocity of the center of a pipe is faster in the center than it is at the edge. In fact at an incrementally small (.01mm) the velocity is effectively 0. This then means that if you take the radius/2 aka D/4, the velocity would be about 63.144 m/s. The relationship is nearly linear from the center to NEARLY the edge as seen here http://www.argentumsolutions.com/images/tutorials/heat/PipeVelocityProfile.gif

In the current setup with the maf in the middle with our hypothetical Q of .5, our Vc is .5=Vc(.003564) meaning Vc(actual) = 140.264 m/s with this linear relationship in mind we know that in a right triangle with the x being the radius, 33.685 and the y being the Vc at 140.265, we find a hypothetical angle of 76.496 degrees. Taking this same angle and applying a new y of the the desired 126.288 we get 126.288/tan(63.152) = 30.328 mm.
This all means that in his CURRENT set up, the appropriate location of his maf in that apparatus is 33.685-30.328 = 3.356mm closer to the edge of his tube.
That would THEORETICALLY be the location for his maf such that his motor would not run rich.
I'm just trying to provide a little bit of SOLUTION instead of more problems

So if you want to use that configuration you should get a about a 3.3-3.5 mm shim to shim your maf sensor holder out a little bit more.
Hope this helps you

Just a little bit of engineering to help solve a problem.

Posted by: enderswift Oct 3, 2011 - 12:02 AM

you're right to want to apply some math to a problem like this but why go through all that hand calculation for only one iteration when you could just model it in solidworks in 5 min and run a flow sim. Much easier imo

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 3, 2011 - 1:16 AM

I look on building a cold air intake in the future. I want the filter sitting in the front left highbeam headlight with a box surrounding it like some gt4 members have already done. That's why I'm looking for the perfect aftermarket maf adapter. I know if I get my hands on on hks with Apexi filter in the future and a sard then I'll be able to see which one gets the best power. And as I stated before we only get crummy 91 octane here in Cali as best pump fuel.

I"ll be borrowing the AEM Air/Fuel Ratio tomorrow from my friend to see if there's a true difference in that adapter you have me roberto and the one I bought a few days ago. I'm also going to get that air box that sits inside of the left fender. So it'll be true cold air and see stock air/fuel ratio. Fuel octane has nothing to do with air/fuel ratio as tested before.

I"d say its a powerful powerplant with good amount of torque. This engine back in the late 1990's was good.

Nothing wrong with the stock oem box (I'm starting to feel that its the best setup), I just love the screaming noise of the short ram intake biggrin.gif

Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 3, 2011 - 7:47 AM

then sell me your box... lol, dont get so desperate and be patient.

You want to center the maf, grap a piece of plastic, and cut it and rubber sandwich and put it between maf and adapter...

here is the filter ans part number


http://www.jps-trading.com/product_info.php?products_id=801

just dont use the mushroom filter as i have been told is crap/


Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 3, 2011 - 9:32 AM

QUOTE (enderswift @ Oct 3, 2011 - 12:02 AM) *
you're right to want to apply some math to a problem like this but why go through all that hand calculation for only one iteration when you could just model it in solidworks in 5 min and run a flow sim. Much easier imo


I was not in the engineering lab nor was I at home tongue.gif Otherwise I would have. Those calculations only took me 5 min anyway. Th write up is what took the time lol

But its simple fluid mechanics, I was just trying to tell people that with PROPER ANALYSIS, solid works or others, you should be able to locate the maf in ANY size intake pipe......theoretically. The same principles are really the reasons why I'm not sold on 3 inch exhaust and 3 inch intakes unless you can PROVE that either ore "chocking" the engine out. Less restrictive CAT, sure, because the engine has to force the exhaust through that. But otherwise, flow in = flow out. It just moves at a slower velocity with a larger pipe.

But I digress. my own beams swap will be going on this winter/spring so I'm sure I'll have my own set of problems then and be asking the same guys for help haha. But the intake doesn't scare me...

Posted by: stephen_lee Oct 3, 2011 - 2:58 PM

so if i understand your math/fluid dynamics lecture up there, not only does the fact the pipe is smaller cause the MAF to read higher, but the fact that its more centered than stock does as well?

the MAF works by measuring the "cooling" effect the flowing air has on a heated wire, so i imagine faster air = more cooling effect.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 3, 2011 - 10:32 PM

nice input everyone. I did some testing today with new maf housing with the following air/fuel ratio :

Rod Millen Motorsport Metal 67.4mm inner diameter adapter = 10.4

Ebay Intake (which is currently still for sale online) with 71.4mm inner diameter = 10.9

OEM Intake with 71mm inner diameter = 11.1

Power felt the best with the oem setup also because I was sucking up cold air from the fender area.

now trying to see if I can find a 75mm intake setup so that I can lean out more....

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 4, 2011 - 7:34 AM

QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Oct 3, 2011 - 3:58 PM) *
so if i understand your math/fluid dynamics lecture up there, not only does the fact the pipe is smaller cause the MAF to read higher, but the fact that its more centered than stock does as well?

the MAF works by measuring the "cooling" effect the flowing air has on a heated wire, so i imagine faster air = more cooling effect.


Haha sorry for the lecture. But yes, centerline velocity is always faster than the velocity of the fluid cloer to the wall. I don't know how close to center that the stock location is. But (as I just learned) if its about cooling of a wire, yes the more centered it is the more heat would theoretically transferred away. The linear relationship still exists though. so if we could figure out the stock location exactly, we could figure out where to put it in an aftermarket setup.
The ultimate goal would maybe be (once we know specifics about the stock) to make or reccomend a setup with specific location for the maf with something common like 3 in. intake pipe, or the SARD pipe (if it's any different etc)

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 4, 2011 - 5:42 PM

QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Oct 4, 2011 - 7:34 AM) *
QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Oct 3, 2011 - 3:58 PM) *
so if i understand your math/fluid dynamics lecture up there, not only does the fact the pipe is smaller cause the MAF to read higher, but the fact that its more centered than stock does as well?

the MAF works by measuring the "cooling" effect the flowing air has on a heated wire, so i imagine faster air = more cooling effect.


so if we could figure out the stock location exactly, we could figure out where to put it in an aftermarket setup.
The ultimate goal would maybe be (once we know specifics about the stock) to make or reccomend a setup with specific location for the maf with something common like 3 in. intake pipe, or the SARD pipe (if it's any different etc)


I have a stock beams intake. what are you after??? I'm looking into an Apexi of Fujita 75mm inner diameter cone filter.

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 4, 2011 - 5:48 PM

how far is the center of the maf on the stock intake pipe from the tube wall? That's what I need to know. Once the calculation is done and some simulation done as well to prove the theory, the final result should be stickied or something because this is something that 98% of beams swappers struggle with. For my own sanity... are you trying to get an aftermarket intake because of the sound or because of the "power" gain? You have the luxury that most people do not have. You've got the stock intake, this work is primarily going to bge done for those who do not have the stock intake and can't get it....
but let me know what the measurement is to your best guess. Maybe a pic of what it looks like

Thanks
Trace

ps. the calculations I first did may have been for Vaverage instead of Vcenter. So the math may be a little off, as far as spacers are concerned, but the concept still exists.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 4, 2011 - 6:26 PM

could of swore I posted it here. Turns out i only posted it on the beams forums, but here it is :



I'm looking to lean out as much as possible so that I use less fuel and gain more power. I know this can be tuned with an standalone ecu but I don't want to spend the money on that right now. I'm also looking to build an intake that sits directly in front of the left highbeam headlight like so. Actually I can't find the link, but if I can place then cone filter directly where the headlight sits then that's even better. I plan on removing the battery from it place and building a cold air intake box their with wind feeding directly through the high beam left headlight.


Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 4, 2011 - 6:42 PM

ok, what do you think your micrometer would say the distance is from the inside part of the tube to the center of that sensor? hard to guess here but i'd say about 64mm?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 5, 2011 - 2:23 AM

QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Oct 4, 2011 - 7:42 PM) *
ok, what do you think your micrometer would say the distance is from the inside part of the tube to the center of that sensor? hard to guess here but i'd say about 64mm?


say what???? use paint and edit my picture with some drawings on it so I can understand you....

Posted by: SwissFerdi Oct 5, 2011 - 11:33 AM

From the middle of that sensor to the outside wall.

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 5, 2011 - 12:14 PM

I need to know what the distance is from the center of the maf to the wall of the tube. Similar to the picture where you showed that the inside diameter was 67.35mm or whatever, how many mm is it from the center of the sensor to the tube wall.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 5, 2011 - 5:58 PM

QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Oct 5, 2011 - 1:14 PM) *
I need to know what the distance is from the center of the maf to the wall of the tube. Similar to the picture where you showed that the inside diameter was 67.35mm or whatever, how many mm is it from the center of the sensor to the tube wall.


I did this measurement very long ago and I believe its posted on the first few pages, or its probably on the beams forums: but half of 71 mm is 35.5mm. which is your center point.



I'm also looking at a Fujita 3.5 inch inner diameter filter or an Apexi 3.34 inch inner diameter filter. I'll probably go with the Fujita because of pricing. Also talked to the guy who sold me the 67mm afm adapter, and he makes 80mm AFM adapter that he used on 1UZFE engines. I'm willing to try anything at this point. Unfortunately I can't return my 67mm adapter but it will only cost me $60 for the 80mm adapter. tongue.gif



My reason for going with a apexi or fujita filter demonstrated to the above illustration.

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 5, 2011 - 7:10 PM

Not what I want to know. I need a new picture. Where one point of your micrometer is on the center of your maf. The other on the inside part of the tube. How close is the sensor to the wall? Can anyone else with the stock airbox provide this info.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 6, 2011 - 12:29 AM

QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Oct 5, 2011 - 8:10 PM) *
Not what I want to know. I need a new picture. Where one point of your micrometer is on the center of your maf. The other on the inside part of the tube. How close is the sensor to the wall? Can anyone else with the stock airbox provide this info.


Ok so I turn the maf sensor around so its pointing in the opposite direction and measure it like that? so your talking about the whole sensor as a whole ??


Posted by: Rusty Oct 6, 2011 - 12:41 AM

It sounds like he's wanting the radius? which is just half the diameter... 71mm 2 = 35.5mm

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 6, 2011 - 12:48 AM

QUOTE (Rusty @ Oct 6, 2011 - 12:41 AM) *
It sounds like he's wanting the radius? which is just half the diameter... 71mm 2 = 35.5mm


naw Rusty because I posted that before. you can even see the picture of the inner diameter of the original oem maf housing.

Posted by: Rusty Oct 6, 2011 - 1:17 AM

really? as it looks like you just edited 6 minutes after my post... smile.gif

QUOTE
This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Today


Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 6, 2011 - 8:41 AM

YES! extend the blue line to the grey dot though to make it longer. That's what I want. EXCEPT the measurement needs to be taken on your stock intake. I need to know what factory conditions are.

Posted by: stephen_lee Oct 6, 2011 - 8:54 AM

he wants this:



Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 6, 2011 - 9:01 AM

QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Oct 6, 2011 - 8:54 AM) *
he wants this:




oh wow then like I said before its half of the inner diameter. Inner diameter = 71mm. and half of that as we learned back in the 3rd grade is 35.5mm..... confused.gif

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 6, 2011 - 9:38 AM

Are you kidding me??I can tell by looking at it that it isn't centered. This isn't rocket science. Measure the thing. It's not in the middle. On page 9 one of the guys even says it isn't centered. I bet it's about 8mm offset.

Posted by: stephen_lee Oct 6, 2011 - 10:29 AM

QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Oct 6, 2011 - 9:38 AM) *
Are you kidding me??I can tell by looking at it that it isn't centered. This isn't rocket science. Measure the thing. It's not in the middle. On page 9 one of the guys even says it isn't centered. I bet it's about 8mm offset.



^this^^

actually try to measure from the red circle in the middle to the base of the sensor... it would give a more accurate reading

this


Posted by: richee3 Oct 6, 2011 - 6:07 PM

Alright, picked up a caliper today. Here are the pictures of the SARD measurements.

Not perfectly centered. Close, but not perfect.


Inner diameter- interestingly enough, 72.3 mm, not 71.


Outer diameter- 76.42 mm.


As close as I can estimate, MAF center measurement- 38 mm.


Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 6, 2011 - 6:16 PM

Dan
Thank-you! Now to find out what the stock is so that we can compare!! smile.gif

Posted by: richee3 Oct 6, 2011 - 7:45 PM

The OEM intake is half the price as the SARD and works better. My choice is clear.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 6, 2011 - 9:11 PM

richee you interestingly, posted that the inner diameter on the sard is 72.3mm. haha funny I find that my ebay intake piping is actually 71.3mm so its only 1mm larger. I actually measured the inner diameter on my aluminum piping where it meets the end of a 90 degree bend. So in turn my ebay piping is basically identical to you sard inner diameter.

Your maf sensor is more dead center then my ebay setup. All this talk about turbulence. When you look at the sard air filter itself it looks as if it would cause lots of turbulence just like the mushroom green filter. The Apexi and Fujita cause the least turbulence by design and claims made by the above illustration I posted. I"d like to get my hands on the sard to see air/fuel ratio. Since it's been claimed to make more power over the stock box. I"ll get the measurements tomorrow on the stock maf sensor location.



Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 7, 2011 - 3:40 AM

reckon you want to have an intake collection.

laugh.gif

Posted by: blackthunder Oct 8, 2011 - 3:41 AM

I guess I can add to this thread fo the sake of more information.. laugh.gif

this is the ebay intake setup (yeah it's not the greatest but I'm cheap, lol):



Using a ****ty caliper to measure out 73.5mm:



and this is where it sits inside. Sorry can't measure the distance since it sits too far down the piping:



so, yeah...

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 9, 2011 - 2:01 PM

^ it looks deeper than center from here but hard to tell. I'm comparing it to the grains of the metal pipe on the side. About where the shadows change and the circle turns vertical. Does it work alright? What fuel do you run in her?

Posted by: richee3 Oct 11, 2011 - 11:55 AM

For what it's worth, I had a 1MZ Camry Weapon-R intake when I first swapped. It had 3 nipples next to the MAF and that's why I ditched it. I noticed when I got the SARD that low-end power didn't feel as good as before. I measured the Weapon-R a few days ago and it was 71.5 mm. Who knew that .8 mm would cost a noticeable difference?

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 11, 2011 - 2:47 PM

QUOTE (richee3 @ Oct 11, 2011 - 12:55 PM) *
For what it's worth, I had a 1MZ Camry Weapon-R intake when I first swapped. It had 3 nipples next to the MAF and that's why I ditched it. I noticed when I got the SARD that low-end power didn't feel as good as before. I measured the Weapon-R a few days ago and it was 71.5 mm. Who knew that .8 mm would cost a noticeable difference?

smile.gif - ahh the power of fluid mechanics lol
Still waiting on that stock airbox measurement if anyone wants to take the time...

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 11, 2011 - 3:52 PM

yup yup here it is :



also was shortening the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail and came out with this. Also buying that same line that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel rail from toyodiy is about $180 plus shipping. they are out of their minds. I should have no problems with this setup right?



Posted by: SupraKid Oct 11, 2011 - 4:12 PM

Who the **** is this guy? And who made him jesus?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 15, 2011 - 1:47 PM

so ricochet I've got the measurement for you. Whats the verdict??!

Posted by: ricochet1490 Oct 15, 2011 - 7:26 PM

when i can find time to do those calculations I'll let you know.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 16, 2011 - 7:05 PM

lol, now ill go home and put the noose in my neck

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 25, 2011 - 4:15 PM

QUOTE (delusionz @ Jul 2, 2011 - 4:09 AM) *
QUOTE (Rusty @ Jun 6, 2011 - 6:42 PM) *
from what I read from that
3 gen 3S-GE - limiter 7500rpm
Beams 3S-GE - limiter is 7450rpm
and redline starts at 7,000rpm, and max advised rpm is 7,200rpm for both of these 3S-GE's


and also pointing out thats 197bhp not whp or flywheel hp


Try bouncing off the limiter then, any gear just foot flat to the floor nananananananana and tell me u make it to 7500.... No 3rd or 4th gen 3S-G* I've ever driven has revved that high, they all cut out at 7200 which is the end of the small red line and the start of the big red line on the tachometer.


This ones for you Delusionz


http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=Revvingto7450rpm.mp4

Posted by: sbennett Nov 10, 2011 - 11:34 PM

Referring back to the S2000 antenna, was there anything you had to do to make it fit? Or did you just buy it off ebay, and screw it in? My antenna was torn off and I like the way that one looks on your celi

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 22, 2012 - 2:50 PM

So after 8 months of not buying anything for my car I come up with this...


Posted by: S8S8 May 22, 2012 - 11:21 PM

That's a nice little haul you have there. smile.gif

Posted by: SupraKid May 23, 2012 - 4:58 PM

You stole my SS suspension ya ass.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 8, 2012 - 1:01 AM

much better than using 2 x 4's



although this take an extra Hour and a half by yourself to remove and install I did so, so that removing the transmission and re-installing made it 10 times easier!



and besides they both needed a deep cleaning, after both end cv boots were torn and was driving on them for a month.

before :



after :



hard to see but took at least an hour to clean all grease off of them.

going back to oem mounts only, to lessen vibration.



after 10,000 miles of driving this is what a polyurethane insert does to a new motor mount :



clutch hybrid although a hybrid disk isn't best setup for 3sge beams flywheel, check out richee3 progress thread Its all explained there : http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=73135&st=640&start=640





As you can see Southbend Clutch uses Exedy parts which I like (exedy parts are = to Aisin, toyota main manufacture for oem parts, along with Denso) still went with a oem release bearing to be safe.

Posted by: mi645 Jun 14, 2012 - 10:40 AM

I also just got a 99 celica stock tho and was wondering if I can check out your car sometimes live in Cali also never met another celica 6gen fan id like to tho

Posted by: delusionz Jun 14, 2012 - 10:56 AM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Oct 26, 2011 - 9:15 AM) *
QUOTE (delusionz @ Jul 2, 2011 - 4:09 AM) *
QUOTE (Rusty @ Jun 6, 2011 - 6:42 PM) *
from what I read from that
3 gen 3S-GE - limiter 7500rpm
Beams 3S-GE - limiter is 7450rpm
and redline starts at 7,000rpm, and max advised rpm is 7,200rpm for both of these 3S-GE's


and also pointing out thats 197bhp not whp or flywheel hp


Try bouncing off the limiter then, any gear just foot flat to the floor nananananananana and tell me u make it to 7500.... No 3rd or 4th gen 3S-G* I've ever driven has revved that high, they all cut out at 7200 which is the end of the small red line and the start of the big red line on the tachometer.


This ones for you Delusionz


http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=Revvingto7450rpm.mp4


this is my st205 hitting the limiter at 7200rpm
http://youtu.be/vJyfBDeN2lI
my old st202 hit the limiter in the same identical place, in your video it goes way past there, since my cars have all been genuine jdm models, i chalk that up to calibration

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 17, 2012 - 5:22 PM

toyota forced me to install a lightweight flywheel because I somehow missed the fact that a 3sgte pressure plate will not work on a beams flywheel. not so much forced but I didnt want to install a oem 3sgte 19 pound flywheel (which would of taken another few days since the shop was already closed) plus didnt want an oem beams pressure plate.

F1 Racing Chromoly 11.4 pounds


hehe cleaned transmission from transmission shop called anaheim gear


and my exhaust set up :



before I had these universal 14 inch fans just attached to the radiator with zip ties. Now I've made brackets :



Posted by: richee3 Jun 17, 2012 - 6:37 PM

You definitely don't want the 3S-GTE flywheel. Good call. While it works and I owe bloodMoney my life for giving me a flywheel, my spare BEAMS with shot rings was way more rev-happy than the one I have now. Plus I suspect my flywheel of being the culprit for my car running rich. I'm jelly of your lightweight flywheel smile.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 17, 2012 - 11:54 PM

yea it was surprisingly cheap also. at $185 including CA tax thats pretty good. no rough idle either. It weighs 3.6 pounds lighter than oem which isn't much. not sure how much of an affect it has just yet. still taking it easy on the new clutch.

also do you guys think this shifter cable needs replacing???


Posted by: Akirad1 Jun 19, 2012 - 8:42 PM

yes why wait for that thing to break since you already have the car down fix it

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 8, 2012 - 2:15 AM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 9, 2011 - 6:23 PM) *
here you go delusionz im not redlining my gears as I'll make a video for that later. But tell me if you notice how off my speedometer is. I'm in 5th Gear

http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=VIDEO0002.mp4

here is a youtube video so you can compare. note the rpm gauge.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrTfiXIddls


I swapped the helical lsd into my original open differential beams manual transmission s54. The guy at the transmission shop told me ring and pinion count was the same for both transmission but when I recorded this video it proved otherwise. The new video is the latest update. view both video please for reference!!


Both video are 11,000 miles apart so yes tire wear might have to due with it a little, but the rpm are 400-500rpm difference when going 85 mph!!

http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view&current=gearratiosafterlsdswap.mp4

Posted by: delusionz Jul 8, 2012 - 5:43 AM

Yes. 3600rpm is unusually high for 110km/h, the 2nd video looks better

Posted by: Rusty Jul 9, 2012 - 12:56 AM

interesting conclusion. I'm guessing your happy with it now?

At the time when I came up with the reason why the speed/revs was different. I was basing it on what you'd told us S54 transmission with a MR-S LSD. Put the numbers into a calculator and they matched to what was happening in the video. But if your happy with it now, 'rev vs speed' and a smoother feeling transmission. all good thumbsup.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 9, 2012 - 1:04 AM

my question is which one of these is the pinion so I can can't the teeth!! but your mention of it being a mrs helica lsd still doesn't make sense. When the guy pulled apart both transmission he said ring count was the same for both lsd and open differential. Yet now with the car driving the gears are that like a normal s54 transmission. Can it be that the pinion teeth count is different on this transmission thats below in the picture, can you point out to me what internal transmission part is the pinion???!!!




This is quoted by a 6gc member via email :


Very interesting I have learned something new about the ring and pinion compatability between the S and C series transmission. However dont get so cocky yet lol... read on and you'll see that there is nothing in that thread which shows why that trans seems to be geared lower/shorter then a stock 6th gen GT. If anything it would be geared longer... which is what u where saying right?

If not then then yes it is possible ur car is geared higher/longer then a stock gt but i doubt its that of the custom work and probably because that trans is NOT an S54 but an S51... if it is an S54 then its the 71/18 = 3.94444 version. But this would lead to better performance since it would take advantage of your higher redline as well as the increase in power and torque. It might also lead to better fuel economy.

"The 4.176 S54 has 17 teeth on the output shaft driven gear and 71 teeth on the ring gear."
These are the s54's that are in the gt 6th gens.

"The Corolla's C59 uses a 67 tooth ring gear with a 17 tooth drive gear for 3.941. This is the perfect match for the S54's 17 tooth drive gear."

"So this gives the S54 with 17 teeth these possible differential gear ratios: 3.941, 4.058, and 4.176"

smaller the number the higher the gear.

so if you had the c59 ring gear then your car would be geared higher.

"It might be possible to use the 19 tooth output shaft from the C150 in the S series transmission, but that compatibility has not been proven. You'd also have to press the gears off each output shaft, which can be time consuming or expensive. These are only possibilities, not actualities. Gear lash between the output shaft pinion gear and the ring gear will be affected if you change one without changing the other. The gear lash may be too great for your particular application, like if you switched to a 67 tooth ring gear when the pinion gear was designed for a 71 tooth, and such. Compatibility has not been proven with such ring gears in the S transmissions as gear lash must be considered and measured."

I find it unlikely, but not impossible someone would have gone through this trouble. If they did however it would still lead to a higher final drive as "C150 3.545 1.904 1.310 0.969 0.815 Diff: 3.526" Still higher then stock.

In fact looking at the numbers on that thread the s54 in the 6th gens has the lowest final drive of all of the options.

.... and then i saw ur post all the way down at the bottom.

"lets not forget the C160 and C60 final drive gear ratio. I have a 4.529 final drive gear ratio currently in my S54 Helical LSD transmission. Greater acceleration!! "

So your saying someone pressed the gears of of each output shaft and swapped out the output shaft and ring gear from a C160 or C60 trans into that transmission I sold you... Perhaps but ill believe it when i see pictures of the ring and pinion gear.

and yes I'm happy with it now!! I don't think i'll ever get the money to buy a standalone ecu. Once the larger diameter wheels are fitted I'll have slightly longer gears. just want better air/fuel ratio rolleyes.gif

Posted by: Rusty Jul 9, 2012 - 2:07 AM

top left on the first shaft I'm pretty sure

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 18, 2012 - 1:14 AM

intsalled these today. good upgrade and fairly cheap as well. stiffer front feel biggrin.gif
they should have came with the grease fitting like you see in trdproven end link install thread. I just got unlucky and got the earlier version, even though I also ordered it from the same place as trdproven (rockauto)


Posted by: celica74 Jul 18, 2012 - 11:51 AM

someones got them a gsxr

Posted by: delusionz Aug 26, 2012 - 5:59 AM

hey i was thinking, do you use the factory wiring for your fuel pump? if you do, does it still retain a resistor pack? if your running full power to the fuel pump it might explain why yours is noisy,

through the factory wiring your fuel pump should only see 11.something volts?

oh, those are some odd looking endlinks you got there, they look like dumb bells lol. do you have upgraded swaybars too? what would be next? reinforcing the thin little mounting tabs on your coilovers? lol

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 26, 2012 - 10:54 AM

QUOTE (delusionz @ Aug 26, 2012 - 5:59 AM) *
hey i was thinking, do you use the factory wiring for your fuel pump? if you do, does it still retain a resistor pack? if your running full power to the fuel pump it might explain why yours is noisy,

through the factory wiring your fuel pump should only see 11.something volts?

oh, those are some odd looking endlinks you got there, they look like dumb bells lol. do you have upgraded swaybars too? what would be next? reinforcing the thin little mounting tabs on your coilovers? lol


yea I used factory wiring for my fuel pump. I had to use factor connector. So I cut the oem one and crimped the two walbro wires onto the factory connector. I'm getting a 11.1 air/fuel ratio. I actually picked up an oem fuel pump from junkyard with 109,000 miles. Should be installing that thing very soon.

yea the endlinks are thick. I'd say better than any other end-link available on the market. scroll up to the top of the page and you'll see my front green sway bar. I have a rear suspension technique sway bar as well. haha naw they wouldn't be strong enough to rip them off!

oo slight update. So the mechanic across the street said that shifter cable ^^^^ will be just fine for a little while more. So I wrapped it with a few layers of electrical tape and then with gorilla duct tape, Adjusted my clutch pedal so it will fully disengage the clutch and Vuala! Now my shifts are as smooth as butter! biggrin.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 7, 2012 - 2:11 AM

FROM this


to this:


At first I had hard time shifting in high revs and down shifting into 2nd and 4th. Then it was so bad I only had 1st, 3rd and 5th gear. HAd to push my car when in reverse (embarrassing). Then it got so bad that whenever I went into 5th gear it wouldn't want to come out. I was have to turn off the car and then move the shifter on the transmission in order to get it popped outta 5th gear. Now gears feel so precise and smooth.

Soon I'll be buying Dunlop Direzza DZ101 in 215/50R16. Still trying to get rid of my gt4 bumper and hood so I can fit the c-one replica bumper and oem hood. sale from hood and bumper will allow me to buy tires and have some monies left over for other things.

Sold walbro pump and stock oem pump is working just fine. ahh the silence, what a joy

and yea delusionz I'll be reinforcing the tabs on the control arm as soon as I break in my new summer tires. don't want this happening again :

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Mcpherson%20Susp/BrokenSwayBarlinktoAArm.jpg.html

Posted by: Rusty Oct 8, 2012 - 1:08 AM

glad to see you've finally fixed that cable thumbsup.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 15, 2012 - 3:57 PM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Oct 11, 2011 - 4:52 PM) *
yup yup here it is :

also was shortening the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail and came out with this. Also buying that same line that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel rail from toyodiy is about $180 plus shipping. they are out of their minds. I should have no problems with this setup right?





QUOTE (SupraKid @ Oct 11, 2011 - 5:12 PM) *
Who the **** is this guy? And who made him jesus?



QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Oct 16, 2011 - 8:05 PM) *
lol, now ill go home and put the noose in my neck


i STAND BY MY EARLIER statement. There are two types of fuel lines. One is used for Carburetor engines low pressure fuel obviously(usually costs $1.50 a foot) and the other Fuel Injection Hose is meant for Fuel Injection Systems like our celica's (runs for $4.50-5.50 a foot!!)

this is what happens to a regular fuel line after 4,000 miles and 4 months of driving :


Posted by: delusionz Oct 15, 2012 - 7:49 PM

I figured the fuel filter (bottom port) is M14x1.5 , the banjo bolt on the fuel rail is M12x1.25, I will have

M14x1.5 to AN-6 adaptor, braided hose, AN-6 fittings, inline AN-6 fuel filter & AN-6 banjo

check out earl's over there in the US if you keen to splash some cash

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Nov 19, 2012 - 10:26 PM

thx to richee I was able to get a oem beams fuel line as well as to batman because He told me the st fuel bracket will work just fine. Although one thing. the fuel filter bracket for the st does not completely hold the celica gt fuel filter because it is smaller. You can see by the pics, it was quite a hassle to try and fit the bracket around the filter correctly. Also found out fuel line goes in between head and intake manifold

Before : Here is the Stock GT FUel filter bracket and location. On the st celica's the fuel hard line is all curved, but the gt is straight!



AFTER :






Posted by: richee3 Nov 19, 2012 - 10:38 PM

I have the same issue. But it's definitely better than the setup I had before. Glad the fuel line is working for you!

Posted by: Batman722 Nov 19, 2012 - 11:00 PM

Crazy. I'm sorry the info I gave you wasn't 100%
Squeeze the shiz tighter or put something around the filter to hold it better.

I knew the ST bracket was further away from the frame rail than the GT.
I just looked it up and found out that the ST filter has a bigger diameter than the GT.
We put a new fuel filter in when we swapped the Beams in.

So I go out to the garage and pop the hood of my Beams and we're using a GT bracket and ST filter, (wtf ! I bet Stef told the parts guy at the dealer she needed a fuel filter for a 94 Celica and they just assumed ST - because her car is an ST) and the filter is wedged into the bracket and the bracket can't be bolted together. I can take a pic if you want, I have the opposite problem as you but mine isn't going anywhere.

Moral of the story, the GT bracket/filter does work if everything is routed properly with the correct hose, just use the filter to match the bracket, if not use the ST stuff.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Dec 11, 2012 - 6:25 PM

so this is still driving me up the wall only because I want to sell this final drive to a member in peru since he's raised his rev limit to 8,000 rpm and he's got super long gears, but this is what I've come up with.

The picture below is the car at 4,000 rpm at different speeds because of the different final drive gear ratios

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jan 3, 2013 - 3:32 AM

update: So i fitted the mevotech rear end links, but the fitment it quite odd is it safe?? I feel like bending the tab/mounting point on the strut so the end link can be more parallel to the shock. here the pix explain it:





Posted by: SwissFerdi Jan 3, 2013 - 9:38 AM

Seems to me like the link is binding now.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jan 3, 2013 - 3:19 PM

QUOTE (SwissFerdi @ Jan 3, 2013 - 10:38 AM) *
Seems to me like the link is binding now.


the picture above is with the tires off the ground. although it looks the same while the tires are on the ground.

it was almost near impossible to put on the right end link. should I remove them and return them? these are meant for our cars. what gives?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jan 4, 2013 - 12:53 AM

so it turns out i had a 71 ring count on the lsd transmission I got from my friend here in los angeles. So my guess is that all celica that came with beams open differential and McPherson suspension ss2 models came with 3.944 final drive. the 3.944 is only found in 3rd gen 3sge engines.

but yes you guys are right stock s54 4.176 final drive gear ratio is short i'll say.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 3, 2013 - 12:59 PM

Moog rear End links. oh yes i took one left hander turn and wow i'd say it handles like a Type r. but i still have yet to really test them out. I slightly bent the mounting tabs outward with a 10 inch vice grip in order to make sure the end link sat as parallel to the shock as possible

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4819_zps468f1731.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4823_zps1918159a.jpg.html

i could of updated my exterior parts update back in december 2012 but hesistated cause i hated the fact that the shop didnt cover up the front bumper grills and painted my radiator, horn, and subframe silver. but anyhow you get the idea!!! yea i deleted the sunroof so what. the shop didnt do that well of a job aligning the bumper perfectly to the body. but its a replica of a replica c-one bumper so they did the best they could. i'll probably get it remoldled perfectly after summer.


http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4826_zpsddadc023.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4816_zps0a0436e8.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4820_zps5f80b63d.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4825_zps679abe1c.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4824_zps6e42da1b.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4827_zps591f84d7.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4831_zpse86a0afd.jpg.html

Posted by: czwalga Jun 3, 2013 - 1:21 PM

Ugh, yeah wish I saw your fuel situation sooner, the lower pressure hose is definitely not ok for use on a fuel injection setup; unless its before the pump in an external pump setup, or after the regulator.

Posted by: Ted95 Jun 3, 2013 - 1:45 PM

I like your modded c-one bumper, came it out really good! would look sweet with a big ol' intercooler in its mouth haha. cars looking good man!

Posted by: Box Jun 3, 2013 - 2:14 PM

Was going to say it's been awhile since I checked in, but it seems that'd be your case as well. tongue.gif How are you going to get the sun in your hair now though? redface.gif

Posted by: ILoveMySilly97 Jun 4, 2013 - 4:08 AM

So jealous of your car. I've always wanted to have a red top in my car but I don't have that street "luxury" of getting it smogged in Cali like you did. Lol.

Posted by: Box Jun 4, 2013 - 4:25 AM

QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 4, 2013 - 4:08 AM) *
So jealous of your car. I've always wanted to have a red top in my car but I don't have that street "luxury" of getting it smogged in Cali like you did. Lol.

Move out to Alabama where car inspections, much less emissions, are nonexistent. tongue.gif

Posted by: Ted95 Jun 4, 2013 - 6:22 AM

QUOTE (Box @ Jun 4, 2013 - 5:25 AM) *
QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 4, 2013 - 4:08 AM) *
So jealous of your car. I've always wanted to have a red top in my car but I don't have that street "luxury" of getting it smogged in Cali like you did. Lol.

Move out to Alabama where car inspections, much less emissions, are nonexistent. tongue.gif


Ya over in GreenBow where you can become a Shrimp Boat Captain laugh.gif

sorry i had too lol I hear Alabama and i think Forest Gump tongue.gif

Posted by: Box Jun 4, 2013 - 12:59 PM

QUOTE (Ted95 @ Jun 4, 2013 - 6:22 AM) *
Ya over in GreenBow where you can become a Shrimp Boat Captain laugh.gif

sorry i had too lol I hear Alabama and i think Forest Gump tongue.gif

Don't worry so does the rest of the world.

Posted by: ILoveMySilly97 Jun 4, 2013 - 1:02 PM

Lol. As much as I want to. I just don't know any people out there. I've heard you can use a PO box as your home address and get a dmv at that PO Box's state?

Posted by: Box Jun 4, 2013 - 1:21 PM

You can get a P.O. box as your home address, my grandmother does such. Not sure what you mean with the DMV and all though. Speaking of DMV the one advantage to living in the middle of nowhere you can get a car titled or license renewed in about 10 minutes.

Posted by: Rusty Jun 6, 2013 - 11:55 PM

good to see it looking one colour again thumbsup.gif

so whats next?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 7, 2013 - 12:59 PM

i have a grill thats completely silver, so i'm going to paint it black and then clear coat it so it doesn't rust. even though its summer here. this is what the inside part of the bumper should look like. my crappy paint skills

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/waterbrushgreyishvents_zps9daf1b11.jpg.html

whats next hmm. polyurethane bushings is all I need to complete the suspension. i still need some new rear rotors along with upgraded brake pads. remove the governor. and make the car lighter, some clear sidemarkers, remanufactured twin piston avalon calipers or ss3 calipers. once this member that lives not to far from me figures out the conversion for superstrut i might go that route.

Posted by: ILoveMySilly97 Jun 7, 2013 - 1:31 PM

QUOTE (Box @ Jun 4, 2013 - 11:21 AM) *
You can get a P.O. box as your home address, my grandmother does such. Not sure what you mean with the DMV and all though. Speaking of DMV the one advantage to living in the middle of nowhere you can get a car titled or license renewed in about 10 minutes.


I meant like since I live in Cali, I can get a PO box in Texas and use that as my home address so I can register my car through Texas DMV and avoid the SMOG checks. Lol. Even though I live in a small town. The DMV in my town is the only one in the county so....yea it gets busy. Takes me about an hour to get my car registered or renew or whatever. Lol.

Posted by: richee3 Jun 7, 2013 - 2:00 PM

I just picked up some clear sidemarkers that I won't be using if you need them. Bnib. Throw me an offer if you're interested. Your car is looking good. smile.gif

Posted by: Box Jun 7, 2013 - 2:38 PM

QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 7, 2013 - 1:31 PM) *
QUOTE (Box @ Jun 4, 2013 - 11:21 AM) *
You can get a P.O. box as your home address, my grandmother does such. Not sure what you mean with the DMV and all though. Speaking of DMV the one advantage to living in the middle of nowhere you can get a car titled or license renewed in about 10 minutes.


I meant like since I live in Cali, I can get a PO box in Texas and use that as my home address so I can register my car through Texas DMV and avoid the SMOG checks. Lol. Even though I live in a small town. The DMV in my town is the only one in the county so....yea it gets busy. Takes me about an hour to get my car registered or renew or whatever. Lol.

Hmm I don't know, would mainly depend on if you can get a PO box without being a Texas resident. Even then you'll have Texas tags while living in California. tongue.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 7, 2013 - 5:39 PM

Keep the how do i register my car in ca with jdm swap yo urselves. Therefore write to each other with pm's thx. I dont want this thread to get long like some members threads ha

Posted by: Box Jun 7, 2013 - 6:10 PM

Sorry about that. redface.gif I'm just too damn helpful. tongue.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 18, 2013 - 12:13 AM

ok so i believe toyota took a poop on me. Now note i don't drive the car hard except on a few occasions and the last time i was near redlining (i never redline it nor bounce off the rev limiter) was about a week before this occured. I was driving on the fwy about 65 mph at 3100 rpm and then notice a strange noise. I couldnt tell exactly what it was because I have a bad front right wheel bearing thats been howling at me for the past 3 weeks. I then notice a check engine light turn on a few seconds after i hear the strange noise. Try to step on the gas and notice a 60-70% hp loss. My car now sounds like a subaru. The knocking in the video wasnt as loud as when it first happened. I drove the car 3 miles with the check engine light and noise.you can see a bit of white smoke coming from the valve cover.

How do you read check engine lights? I have a link on how to read them. but didn't quite understand it. i'll have to reread it. The video of the check engine light cycles thru 3 times. sorry i just wanted to make sure i didn't miss anything.

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/3S-GE%20Beams/VIDEO0038_zps9ed8f6c7.mp4

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/3S-GE%20Beams/DSCN48491_zps86b4c2ba.mp4

Posted by: SwissFerdi Jul 18, 2013 - 6:23 AM

I'd start by checking motor mounts first. The first time I started mine after the transmission swap, it made a sound close to that - scared every ounce of everything out of me, but it ended up being only a slightly loose mount bolt.

Posted by: richee3 Jul 18, 2013 - 8:00 AM

In the Diagnostic box under the hood, there will be a TC pin. Take a short piece of electrical wire or a paperclip and run it to a good ground point with the key turned to "on." That will get the CEL flashing, then you check the following link:

http://www.mr2.com/forums/beams-owners-group/Toyota-MR2-67398-toyota-code-error-all-models.html

It's that easy. smile.gif I'll watch the videos after my doctor's appointment here in a little bit.

Posted by: Rusty Jul 18, 2013 - 4:22 PM

I get code 15 from seeing your CEL, which is ignition signal.

checked oil level recently? Could be valves or rod.

I'd look at getting a replacement beams engine, greytop as they are cheaper.

Posted by: richee3 Jul 18, 2013 - 4:50 PM

I'd pull your COP's and check on those plugs... Based on the code 15 and the noise it's making, it sounds almost like it threw a plug. I've had it happen to my 5S before. Cruising at 35 mph, suddenly there was a pop, no power, and it sounded almost just like that. Turns out my 5S had just spit a spark plug out and that they're known for doing that. I'd bet your BEAMS just did the same thing, but it's not immediately apparent because the valve cover is hiding the COP's and spark plugs.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 18, 2013 - 10:36 PM

my friend told me to drain the pan and see if i see any metal flakes. i hope my engine isn't done. how the helk did you guys come up with code 15? please share your wisdom.

whats COP? sorry im a newb! yea i figured a spark plug must have gone capoop suddently or the plug for the coil pack got loose

Posted by: Rusty Jul 19, 2013 - 12:53 AM

[]...|||||
10...5 = 15
COP = Coil On Plug

Follow richee's check first, then if that doesn't work, you can find out which cylinder the noise is coming from, by removing one of the plugs to the cop (being careful when you're doing this so you don't get a shock) & then sieving in the oil for gold/metal flakes

Posted by: richee3 Jul 19, 2013 - 10:05 AM

You count the number of CEL flashes to check the code. In your case, you had 1 flash, short pause, 5 flashes. Long pause so it moves on to the next code, but you only have one code so it repeats the code 15.

Posted by: Box Jul 19, 2013 - 12:36 PM

What those guys said. Hopefully it's just a coil or plug, car troubles are never fun. Especially after you've imbued your soul into them.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 21, 2013 - 9:31 PM

ding ding ding we have a winner. i did throw a plug. it shot it straight up into the coil pack and melted stuck onto it. If the cylinders on beams motor are numbered left to right from 1-4 then number 3 was completely dead and had some oil around the plug. also cylinder 2 was flooded with oil. I'm hoping cylinder 3 didn't leak any coolant into it. I guess i didn't tighten plug #3, but i installed these 2 years ago. i was informed that when you install iridium plugs you need to put a special lubricant on the thread's before you install them.

anyhow i tried to screw in a spark plug from another cylinder and it will not thread into the head of the engine. so i need to rethread the cylinder head. yea......

i have yet to drain the pan to see if there are any flakes in the oil

Posted by: Box Jul 21, 2013 - 9:58 PM

That sucks... On the other hand it could've been worse as well. The worst part of it is having to do all of the work.

Posted by: richee3 Jul 22, 2013 - 1:27 PM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jul 21, 2013 - 9:31 PM) *
ding ding ding we have a winner. i did thwo a plug. it shot it straight up into the coil pack and melted stuck onto it. If the cylinders on beams motor are numbered left to right from 1-4 then number 3 was completely dead and had some oil around the plug. also cylinder 2 was flooded with oil. I'm hoping cylinder 3 didnt leak any coolant into it. I guess i didnt tighten plug #3. i was informed that when you install iridium plugs you need to put a special lubricant on the thread's before you install them.

anyhow i tried to screw in a spark plug from another cylinder and it will not thread into the head of the engine. so i need to rethread the cylinder head. yea......

i have yet to drain the pan to see if there are any flakes in the oil

That sucks... Those COP's aren't cheap or easy to get here. Hopefully there are no issues besides buying a new set of COP's and rethreading the head for the spark plug.

Posted by: Rusty Jul 22, 2013 - 3:56 PM

Whats going on? Cylinder 2 is flooded with oil and cylinder 3 has coolant in it?



Yes they are redtop/greytop beams specific
toyodiy: 90919-02227 $135.36

Have you got any pictures of what's happened?

Posted by: Batman722 Jul 22, 2013 - 4:20 PM

Sounds like the valve cover gasket is blown out.
the center little gasket keeps oil for those cylinders where it should be.
That could of caused the plug to pop out actually...

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 22, 2013 - 10:04 PM

the guy that was helping thought he saw coolant but wasn't sure. I have green coolant btw and he didnt say he say green coolant. so i've got to pull the valve cover off for sure and check for any flakes in the oil...

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 23, 2013 - 1:46 PM

okay so that you guys know exactly what happend. I drove 4.5 miles with this knocking noise/shot out spark plug melted to coil plug. I turned it on two seperate times for 10 seconds and then another time for 35 seconds. so when i do check oil all i should see is the metal shavings from the threads of the cylinder head.

Posted by: ricochet1490 Jul 24, 2013 - 4:22 PM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jul 23, 2013 - 2:46 PM) *
okay so that you guys know exactly what happend. I drove 4.5 miles with this knocking noise/shot out spark plug melted to coil plug. I turned it on two seperate times for 10 seconds and then another time for 35 seconds. so when i do check oil all i should see is the metal shavings from the threads of the cylinder head.

Assuming they made it past the cylinder which I doubt. Probably still on top the piston.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 22, 2013 - 5:09 PM

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/Maintenance/DSCN4859_zpsfb82e3c4.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/Maintenance/DSCN4860_zps5c9067f8.jpg.html

well all i have to say it took a complete 13 days from the time i sent the payment to the time I received my package. and I'm talking about the OEM Beams engine parts. which i sourced from onnaj in netherlands. He was able to get me good pricing. just like lithia but at a shipping rate 2-3 times faster. Lithia told me a 4-6 week wait time vs what i waited a short 2 weeks.

no all im waiting on is the used coil plugs and then i have to figure out where i'll work on the car at n who will help me.

Posted by: Box Aug 22, 2013 - 5:14 PM

Mitsuboshi, is that like Rolax? tongue.gif

Posted by: delusionz Aug 24, 2013 - 3:16 AM

If you were to order a cam belt from Toyota genuine parts, you would receive an identical cambelt that says Mitsuboshi along with the extra Toyota and a T-P/N number printed on it

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 2, 2013 - 6:07 PM

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/Maintenance/IMAG0015_zps2c95aded.jpg.html

so i've talked to 6-7 mechanics. all they said its a 50/50 chance that I don't have to take off head to put time sert into spark plug hole. now just waiting. even the used coil plugs that i bought are starting to build the red ring about half way down the plug. so i have a total of 7 that work. i'll just have to choose which one looks best according to my sight.

Posted by: mi645 Sep 2, 2013 - 7:57 PM

Car has no issues motor is clean... It shouldn't be that hard to fix... This things still a baby

Posted by: onnaj Sep 4, 2013 - 10:19 AM

Nice ride man! Hope you'll be able to fix the problem soon and enjoy your ride!

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 16, 2013 - 11:01 PM

My right hub is done so I was forced to fit right side of superstrut only because i still couldn't find a used knuckle in time (new hubs are $115!!!) I'll need to take off the superstrut asap because one bushings on control arm is busted.

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Superstrut%20Susp/IMAG0030_zps914c5a86.jpg.html

have no room to work on the car on my own. so im trusting a beams swapped mr2 guy who owns a shop in ontario, ca. bought a used beams head from mr220v. So i'm transferring cylinder head parts from my current head to the used one and then i'll be done in 2 weeks! Its been 72 days since i've driven the car...

Posted by: onnaj Sep 17, 2013 - 8:31 AM

Hope you do have luck with the car now and be able to drive it soon! 72 days since the last driving, that's really long! But that'll make you enjoy the first driving a lot again biggrin.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 12, 2013 - 12:44 AM

well decided not to go forth with superstrut cause i need to replace both figure 8's and one lower control arm.

finally the car is running again after 3 months.

instead of retapping and rethreading the spark plug hole. I bought a used beams redtop head from mr220v. a guy from mr2 board did the whole thing from start to finish for a good price as well. replaced power steering belt and oil pump gasket as well. Oh and i put toyota red coolant yum

the car idles great at 850 rpm. its running on synthetic blend for another 500 miles then i'll switch it out too synthetic again. although this took a junk outta my wallet at least i have a car again.

Posted by: onnaj Oct 12, 2013 - 7:15 AM

Great to hear that the car is back on the road again! Enjoy it! Forget about the money it costed, that's what i also try with the blacktop wink.gif

Posted by: JoshuaM Oct 12, 2013 - 7:18 AM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Oct 12, 2013 - 1:44 AM) *
the car is running again



WOOO! biggrin.gif

Posted by: Rusty Oct 17, 2013 - 5:28 PM

Did you or the other person inspect the block/cylinder walls for damage when the head came off?

As the tip is missing on that sparkplug of yours.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Oct 17, 2013 - 5:40 PM

i trust the guy. he had to take off the cylinder head twice. and readjust a valve cause it was too tight. he's been in the car biz for at least 10 years. he took his time with it as he has a 91 mr2 with beams swap.

he told me he cleaned the tops of each cylinder head real well. i can tell my engine is smoother. i'll be putting in sythetic mobil 5w-30 in the next 2 weeks then i'll see how it holds up to the rebuild. biggrin.gif

Posted by: hoodedone Apr 19, 2014 - 2:51 AM

Beautiful car! Love that it has a beams swap! Thats the swap im looking at, but with an auto trans. Anyways love the project!

Posted by: BonzaiCelica May 22, 2014 - 11:01 PM

Do You have VTEC?!! (best motoring quote)

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0772_zpsrkoutxzf.jpg.html

Posted by: njccmd2002 May 23, 2014 - 12:36 AM

found an exhaust right?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 15, 2014 - 6:48 PM

Doing some maintenance like raybesto emergency brake shoes and beck/arnlly rear pad shim kit also

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0814_zps1mqnbvpr.jpg.html

What is really odd is pipe that supposedly this cat back exhaust is supposed to connect to OEM cat converter from a regular 3rd gen 3sge motor. But I highly doubt the oem cat will bolt on.

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0779_zpsnit3zaft.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beam/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0777_zpsdqjzm8hy.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0776_zpsgbgxsmej.jpg.html

So I bought this 70mm inner diameter to 62mm outter diameter reducer from walker exhausts part #41999. Its near impossible to find a 70 mm exhaust flange with 105-110mm bolt to bolt center spacing. The only ones i found were 100mm bolt spacing in mild steel which would mean some dremel tool action which is what i want to avoid.

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0811_zpswz1c7ndn.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0813_zpspkwqh9lw.jpg.html

The whole exhaust besides that is 60mm inner diameter

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0775_zpsl37tsiyw.jpg.html

Posted by: Rusty Jun 16, 2014 - 4:14 PM

So your new exhaust doesn't fit/ bolt up at all?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 16, 2014 - 5:42 PM

QUOTE (Rusty @ Jun 16, 2014 - 4:14 PM) *
So your new exhaust doesn't fit/ bolt up at all?


edit. i updated a pic above and changed some of my description in the post above.

Rusty, it should but I obviously don't have an oem cat. Maybe you can measure oem inner diameter on cat converter.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jun 16, 2014 - 10:47 PM

i just added a pipe...

Posted by: 955SFE Jun 17, 2014 - 5:11 PM

I came here for the weight reduction. Where is it at? Lol

Nice progress.

Posted by: Rusty Jun 17, 2014 - 5:17 PM

Too much work to do that sorry.

Whats the bolt hole spacing on both flanges?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 17, 2014 - 5:37 PM

QUOTE (Rusty @ Jun 17, 2014 - 6:17 PM) *
Too much work to do that sorry.

Whats the bolt hole spacing on both flanges?


http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=93050&hl=special+size+exhaust+flange

this will be the gasket that im picking up, but you can use the greddy one seen here as well, below.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/70mmgasket_zps0bfdbcb2.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/Greddy70mmgasket_zpsa62810bd.jpg.html

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 2, 2014 - 12:08 PM

So I need help with fitment. I've never personally seen this fujitsubo exhaust installed on any ST202/ST206. I'm 99.9% sure this fits over the rear subframe cause I bolted it all together as one piece and tried to fit it under Sub frame but it didn't even reach.

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0840_zpstn7unr4t.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0839_zps4eivtod1.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0838_zpsmjcvzm6f.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0837_zpsoyh4hntz.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0831_zpsfehueim8.jpg.html

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 2, 2014 - 12:32 PM

it wont fit, those are catbacks, which means you will need the catalytic or in its absence the test pipe.

looks like you may get away with cutting the extra pipe welded to the magnaflow and then welding it in yours...

remember mine came with this, to adapt to the cat

http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6656.jpg.html

but i decided to do this..

http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6661.jpg.html

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 2, 2014 - 2:28 PM

No man of course I know this. You've been following my thread so you know I'm already covering that part which is easy. Btw I'm missing one hanger that's why the muffler is a bit uneven.

When I test fitted it. I was told by Mr curren conversion that ill have to remove the right rear tire and angle it enought so it will bolt up. You guys don't think ill have to put this on a lift in order to install?

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jul 2, 2014 - 4:11 PM

http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6136.jpg.html

http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6137.jpg.html.


i did not with mine.. here is a pic of mine when it was out. i did not have to take a tire, of course i had to lift it with jackstands. taking the tire out would have made it easier

the shape of yours looks very similar to mine, except where the gaskets, you want me to take a picture of mine while it hangs there. mine directly dropped in...


Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 2, 2014 - 5:38 PM

yes i agree it does look easier but installing your i see is much easier okay well thanks for you insight. on a better note wow mr norbert you truly life saver. perfect 110mm center to center bolt spacing and can accomdate smaller or larger bolt spacing muhahha this is a turbo downpipe flange so it a bit thicker but works great! biggrin.gif

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0842_zps0k8pk0uk.jpg.html

but in actuality i have 105mm bolt to bolt center spacing


http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0845_zpsfhn7aztj.jpg.html

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 2, 2014 - 12:11 PM

44cm overall length De-catalytic pipe, measured from the ends of both flanges.

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0888_zpsnaixeuee.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0890_zpseqvpejtj.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5094_zpsctchcygs.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5093_zpsl2beh6eu.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5092_zpsbzlb0nsm.jpg.html

Btw where is Mr Hawaii hella flush john. This pic below is for you. Like the extended tip last the bumper. Yea so it turns out this exhaust is made for curren/coupe celica

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5095_zpsi9pyjzaa.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5098_zps4gyyk2ve.jpg.html

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5097_zpsiwgpghhb.jpg.html

And as you can see it touches the tow hitch so ill probably cut that off

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5096_zpso5vb0pjg.jpg.html

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 6, 2014 - 3:46 AM

anywho the exhaust is good stuff, it says I'm here, but I'm not really here. It sounds near stock at idle but at higher rpm there is no rasp which is great. It doesn't growl like the Greddy SP2. One thing I like a lot is that it routes the same as oem piping, so great ground clearance.

Just a few issues, two gaskets are leaking, even though i tightened flanges as tight as i could, must be that i didn't scrape off any excess gasket material left from the old ones or that the flanges have slightly warped (unlikely). Once i sort that out i hope the exhaust deepens a bit more. i picked up some extra power as well biggrin.gif

Also the exhaust tip is stuck right next to the tow hitch. When I give it WOT shifting into 2nd and 3rd it bangs off the hitch and makes huge clunking noise and going over bumps it makes nasty clunking noise. the exhaust is made for Curren's and Celica Coupe.

taking a look at the rear reinforcement bar/crash bar on toyota websites :

although the part numbers are different between ST204/AT200 vs ST202. The length between the toe hitches are the same 60cm

Everything is identical on the exhaust system as far as length goes between 3SGE ACIS vs 3SGE VVT-I Redtop except the catalytic converter :
Regular 3S-GE Motor Catalytic Converter, part # 18450-74450

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/nonbeamscat_zps03ba61ff.jpg.html

3S-GE Beams Catalytic Converter, part # 18450-77480

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/beamscatconverter_zpsa5990f74.jpg.html

Posted by: SwissFerdi Aug 6, 2014 - 10:36 AM

Would it be possible to flip the muffler? Visually it seems the tip would be better on the right side anyway. Must be loads of fun, that car.

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Aug 6, 2014 - 3:27 PM

ha no way the hangers wouldn't fit if it was like so. the the muffler section that connects to the pipe after that wouldn't connect

Posted by: mi645 Sep 11, 2014 - 3:20 AM

mine was alll bolt on, i wonder y u guys had a hard time. also, so ive been looking at mk3 supra turbo cats, looks like it wil fit with little to none modification.

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