A little bit of background to my story and what I call an almost miracle
WOW, I can't believe how much of a coincidence its been for me. The same day I crashed my car which was on Dec. 13 2010 was the same day that Erahman posted up his 99 Celica GT with beams swap for sale. I couldn't believe that the opportunity presented itself so quickly. What are the chances of that. I mainly believe that its just the fact that I've been wanting to get a beams swap since September of 2008. I actually bought a 2008 Suzuki GSX-R 750 in July 2008. I was all ecstatic when I bought as anybody else would be, but when I found out about the beams swap thanks to Maikl I actually regretted buying the motorcycle. It then wasn't until may 2010 when I crashed my bike in the canyons that I knew the beams engine would be mine very soon. My parents have Triple AAA plus which allows you to tow any vehicle free of charge as long as it is not more than 100 miles. So I drove down to San Diego and the tow truck took my new Celica to my house
I have to say that my dream car wouldn't of been possible if it wasn't for the fact that my grandma let me borrow $4,500. Those $4,500 that I used to buy the celica went a long ways. Erahman took real good care of the car and only put about 3,500 miles on the swap since June 2010. He has replaced a lot of maintenance parts. The one thing that was an upgrade was that fact that my celica now has ABS, power windows, power door locks and rear disk brakes!!
feels damn good to be unique. Over here in So cal there are 4 million civics and 2 million Integras. and probably only 4 or 5 beams swap in all of California.
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump purchased from Tweak Tuning and WRC Style Rain Deflector given to me for about $8 thanks to batman! if anybody has a trd one in near perfect condition I'll trade you for my wrc one!!!
Nice, sell me that gauge pod.
why is the strut out?
i think thats an improvement... all those goodies..
And to the vulture, this is not a fs thread...
why a new fuel pump ? the Beams fuel pump is the same on that's in our US Celicas.
nice car!!!!!! hope to see it soon
ahh....so you bought that beam...congrats...must feel good. let me know if you got a "guy" to smog.
Good stuff. Nice Celica
KIRKASOURS Motor Mounts
Another celi with the BEAMS advantage and that too sooooo clean.Way to go
That BEAMS really looks beautiful in white car... hmmm.
Sell me the steering wheel.
Let me know by PM if you are missing anything crucial for the engine. Preferably easy to get (a Junkyard here has one).
haha darn look at this. The law of attraction at work. Coincidence I think not. look at the time frame I put up for getting the swap and that's how long I've been wanting this engine. 2 years and 4 months later it became mine.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=61930&mode=linearplus
But..you didnt swap?You bought a car that had already been shop swaped.
Haha Ill be driving my legally registered celica.(in which i dont smog) what will you be driving? bwahahhahaha
I've read somewhere else that you have a Tanabe DF210 spring set... I'm also waiting for mine to arrive. Could you please upload some photos when you finish installing them?
Thank you very much and congratulations for that Beams engine!
haha yes update with no pics I finally got the car on the road today. Man it feels so damn good!!
Was dealing with some brake issues but got them sorted out 30 min ago. The car pulls nice so far, but I've only revved it to 4,000 rpm. Haven't felt the sweet spot off vvt-i from 4-7rpm. The brakes are a massive upgrade so far from my ST Setup. My Short Ram intake sounds so sick!!! basically like my buddy's ap2 s2000 but not as high revving.
The Down pipe Exhaust size is 2.25" then goes to 2" from the de-cat back and then to 1.75 inches from the exhaust muffler and out. Its so restrictive and the exhaust sounds like crap. I'll post some pics by tuesday or wednesday. Spending 12 hours today with the celica was a real pita, and that's how I spent my 21st bday haha.
Well plenty of work ahead of me
glad you like the intake...
also you need a better exhaust to love the beams..
ill take some videos of mine... someday
oh and 9000 rpm is so sick. dont ask dont tell
ya i need to put my 2.25" magnaflow exhaust system with the fitted high flow magnaflow catalytic converter on asap from my old car. So any cops that might creep up behind me smell the fumes of the engine, I'm catalytic converter free right now .
update!
TRD Rain Deflector $16 hehe
12" Megan Racing Slim Fans
Timken Front Wheel Bearings with Seals $120
Dude! Take that thing up to 7000 RPM
That 1.75 exhaust might be a problem though.
ah yes the 2 inch to 1.75 exhaust piping on the stock gt is restrictive. Although at the moment I have no catalytic converter. Not good as cops can smell my exhaust fumes. I'll get that fixed next weekend.
heres the video of my custom made intake hehe
http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view¤t=BeamsIntake.mp4
ya im not sure what norbert is talking about. Im sure he doesn't know how to loom the engine either. In japan when they used to race the SS-III celica they would put the rev limiter at 8,600rpm where it would produce peak power. So theres no way he's able to hit 9,000 rpm on his stock engine.
Ya the intake sounds just like a k20 but needs the extra 1,000 rpm to sound like it, and as you can see by the video my idle problems are very minimal. If you hear the intake right before I start to rev it you'll notice it starts to make a weird noise, but otherwise it works great.. The intake sounds much better in person my camcorder is a bit old.
so how are you going to register it and get it to pass smog?
For real? But there's no way that engine would pass a visual test in California
update: wont stop making noise, front sway bar components, brake components, pooping noise when going over bumps/dips!!!. Ordered the wrong power slot rotor for the 91 celica gt. Stupid mosaic motorsports didn't list 94-00 celica rotor but listed it as 2000 Celica GT. So i thought the 7th gen gt brake rotor was different. Great now I have to wait another week till Friday or so to make the exchange through US Post office.
This is seriously like the never ending storry! question is will I ever be able to drive my celica without it making a noise. This is driving me up the wall
Jan 22nd to March 26 = Car still not in perfect driving condition, and its my daily driver as well. man this sucks
hang in there...with an old car, that's just how it is...noises do suck A$$
Will it be sweet once the correct rotor is installed?
I read somewhere in the thread "what parts from other gens are compatible with our cars" that "7th gen brakes are compatible and in theory so are 7th gen big brake kits"
Btw I doubt you can smell fumes from another car, it has to be really old and ****ty, like a VW Combi van with black smoke or something
Looking good man.
jealous, have fun with it.
Sick! Nice job man! Keep up the good work! Jealous people here... Including me! hehe
a bit of an update you can say....
57MM Magnaflow Exhaust from Old 94 Celica will be fitted by Friday or this Saturday with the addition of a magnaflow 14" Long Resonator. I will also be changing the routing of the piping to under the rear sub frame. Current setup with the crush bents over the sub frame I feel that it is restricting air flow.
Changing out my Front Bearings, and installing the Poly Mounts with some Syncromesh Fluid.
Not really an upgrade but just some good ol fashioned blank brembo rotors up front
Installing the Helica LSD Transmission that I bought of UrbanDork thanks Craig!!...
and yea we didn't have a cherry picker so we went to home depot and bought some supplies hehe works just fine!
Inside the Transmission/Open Differential Hole that came stock on my Beams Transmission. which means I don't have helical LSD.
New S54 Transmission with Fitted MRS Helical LSD inside, you see the difference!!
on a side note is that how the angle of the engine mounts go right?
Take a look at my custom made downpipe, since the car didnt come with the stock one. doesn't even have a flex pipe.
Condition of my Front Motor Mount, which wasn't that bad :
Future Mod 2 Post Spoiler, that i took from the 94 Celica thats now at the junkyard RIP OLD Celi
Wow, I'd rather part it here than see my Celi go to the junkyard, that's heart-breaking. In with the new, out with the old I guess. I like the progress, seems to be going smoothly. Best of luck.
i dont see the difference in the trannys.
ohhh! I just thought that was the light / flash getting cut off haha :facepalm:
ok update my helical LSD Transmission, timken wheel bearings and kirkausous motor mounts are installed. Hopefully I can get exhaust installed tomorrow!!! A quick question as regards to the gearing? From what I understood the gearing for USDM and JDM S54 transmission's are all the same right? I was only able to hit 85mph at 7,000 rpm which is unusual because i should be able to go close to 91mph in 3rd gear right??? Do you guys think I might need to recalibrate my speedometer??? heres is what my current setup looks like. Also what should my rpm be at while I'm going 80mph in 5th gear???
as you can see if have the USDM MPH Speedometer.
Gear Ratios for JDM S54:
3.285 * 4.176 = 2027.5 - 37 mph
1.960 * 4.176 = 1209.7 - 62 mph
1.322 * 4.176 = 815.9 - 91 mph
1.028 * 4.176 = 634.5 - 118 mph
0.820 * 4.176 = 506.1 - 147 mph
I currently have a restrictive exhaust, I'm running 2.25inch from oem b-pipe, to 2 inch piping with no catalytic converter and stock 5sfe resonator, then to 1.75 inch piping before I go over the rear axle and to the stock gt muffler.
On another note I'm running 91 octane (which is low grade octane and its the highest we have here in california = 95 ron) fuel for the high compression engine. Its like running 88 octane in an s2000 that requires minimum amount of fuel to be at 91 octane. Beams run at its best on 93/94 octane = 100 Ron fuel. how about cleaning my fuel injectors professionally???? are they hard to take out I know they only charge about $50 to get them cleaned. I also know that the shop that cleans them will give you a before and after of how the injectors performed. Testing Fuel Pressure at the rail?
Second I cannot hear if my engine is knocking or not because I have a short ram intake. When I last took out my spark plugs they all seemed to be in good shape. I believe I have oem ones, but I'm going to buy a set of NGK Iridium Plugs within the next week to be on the safe side. I did however compression test all 4 cylinders and they were all perfect except for the exception of one cylinder that was at 190psi. 190psi is still pretty darn close to 198.7psi.
What other factors should I take into consideration, or am I being paranoid? When I do install my 57mm exhaust I will be going under the axle and the exhaust will be crush bent.
The fuel thing is a bit dodgy but I don't think it would make that HUGE a difference! here in Australia 91 is our lowest then 95, 98 and even the 5SFE doesn't run aswell with 91. Exhaust shouldn't restrict that much aswell!
You should of done a tune up before it went in plugs, leads, dizzy, rotor, fuel filter etc but unless they're completely had it they shouldn't cause too much of a power loss.
Saying all this, I recently bought a 4th gen for a project and that thing had NO torque down low but as soon as it was in high rpm it went well, they need to be revved!
I remember hearing somewhere that the stock BEAMS intake is better than any SRI and that you're better off just getting a high performance panel filter.
no way man beams has 7 more pounds of torque than the 5sfe. I should be able to feel the torque down low. I'm not driving a torque less honda engine.
well I'll start off with what I know. Which is the exhaust, plugs and better fuel. I"ll just work my way from there. The guy already did a tune up before hand. I also already have a new walbro fuel pump. The previous owner also did all belts as well along with the tensioner too. I'm also throwing some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank while I'm at it. I'll be mixing 3 gallons of 100 octane with 9 gallons of 91 octane to get a near 94 octane mix =100 Ron. I"m probably losing 4-6 hp with the 95 ron gas.
I also still have to reset the ecu and air/fuel ratio once I fit the exhaust and put the plugs in! that should help as well. And yes I read that as well about a custom intake running a bit lean/rich.
Where are the other 6gc experts at I need their opinion in this as well! please
that exhaust will definitely help, the factory 3s-ge exhaust is 2" not 1.75
update new viper alarm 3303 fitted and under the axle 57mm magnaflow exhaust fitted
downgrade: Fuel line Banjo to fuel rail is leaking fuel, and my Air/Fuel Ratio I believe is still way off...
When I did the compression test 3 months ago all the cylinders read 198 psi except for the far left one that read at 190 psi. I was thinking about doing a leak down test, but was then advised by urbandork that it wouldn't be necessary since all the pistons are already near perfect.
Unhook the battery for 10 minutes, hook it back up, start the car and let it idle for 5 minutes, then go drive it like you would normally so the ECU can set everything up. Do you have any problems that are leading you to think you may have bad compression?
Just disconnect battery for 15 mins to reset ecu.
also, did you figure anything out with the gearing?
Basically you should get approx 10km/h extra out of each gear with the extra redline.
Based on a JDM 3S-GE Celica with S54-06D LSD FWD Transmission with a factory tyre size 215/50R16 you should get on your speedo:
At 100km/h (62mph) you should have 3200RPM in 5th gear, 4000 in 4th gear, 5000 in 3rd gear.
At 110km/h (68mph) you should have 3400RPM in 5th gear, 4200 in 4th gear, 5200 in 3rd gear.
Based on some of my old dash cam vids. Expect 80mph to be high in the revs, We don't have speed limits that high in this part of the world.
Max speeds at 7000 were (approximately):
1st: 58km/h (36mph)
2nd: 98km/h (60)
3rd: 144km/h (89)
4th: don't max it out often enough to remember exactly, somewhere around 180km/h - 195km/h
5th: are you insane?
andrew read my above post. I did the compression test right when I got the car and they cylinders were fine. I'll get a video of me topping out 1st-3rd gear. I have 205/45R16 tires btw.
Oh another question is the ST and GT Fuel line that feeds from the fuel filter to the Fuel Rail is the same part???
The SS-II used 205/50R16 and the SS-III used 215/50R16 factory fitment (or equiv rolling diameter)
So whichever car your gearbox speed sender came from (either the SS-II beams clip from the original swap or the SS-III LSD transmission swap) your speedo will be over-reading what you're actually doing either a little bit or alot. If you are using the speedo sender from the original USDM car and are running the same rolling diameter then it will be closer to accurate.
However with your current tyre size I have a feeling you will be going about ~3mph slower than reported per 60mph.
the gt that I know own used to be a automatic transmission. I'm pretty sure that all beams came with the 5 spoke white 15x7 rims whether it was SS-II or SS-III. The transmission I currently have which has a MR-S Helical LSD inside is from a USDM S54. The transmission that the beams came with and the current s54 helical lsd that i have on my car right now should have the same speed sensor. I don't ever remember seeing any beams SS-III fitted with the 6 spoke 16 inch wheels.
ahaha I think I figured it out!!! hehe thanks to another beams member. check out this link, its from last section down from november 2005 and down
http://billzilla.org/AE863SGE.htm
exhaust pics! it sounds alright I have a 18 inch glass pack resonator. Its more performance than sound; But I'll have the exhaust system I want by the end of this year.
the straw technique might work for you, but i wonder how much it's restricting airflow. Try cleaning your MAF, IAC, throttle body/valve, make sure everything is plugged in/no vacuum leak. OR re-positioning of the MAF sensor. I think I missed it but all this happened after installing an after-market intake system with a cone filter?
80 MPH in 5th gear should just be around 4500rpm, maybe less i think. I haven't been on a motorway in a while.
The dreaded MAF!!!
I hope you get this sorted, torque in the beams is grand i find. Not turbo like or anything but 5th gear overtaking feels nice
T
My speed limiter on both SS-III and GT4 cars was 200kph
Google tells us thats 200 kph = 124.274238 mph
Was just on a motorway there on Sunday.
Motorway speed limit is 120Kph, Beams does this in 5th gear at 3,600rpm. To do third gear top outs on most of the roads around me would be suicide, plus, my wife is a fox I dont want to die. The next time i'm on a decent/flat/straight/uncambered road i'll see what i can do.
The throttle cable is tightened the same way you tightened your brakes on your BMX fado fado, I think.
Your exhaust looks like it could be strangling your engine maybe??
T
Ya dont forget deluzionz that mine came off an SS-II celica. But ya when i was trying to top out the car i only got to 190km/h on my
Speedometer, which seems quite off dont u think. That is when my fuel cut was turned on. I shud gps my speed next time.
How does my beams cluster read the rpm signal from the engine?
Naw tony b ive got a new 57mm full exhaust system now! So thats def not the problem. If i dont get my stock intake box back
Then im borrowing my friends aem wideband to monitor my air/ fuel ratios
the higher the speed, the less accurate the speedometer becomes.
update : swapped out the trunk from previous celica and put on my two post spoiler with replica riser blocks. Is it me or does the spoiler/gt4 make it look super huge. I agree that it flows well with the trd splitters. Even if I were to cut down the riser blocks a few inches I wouldn't be able to see thru my rear view mirror !!!
And please tell me what you guys think, my 16 inch rims look quite small don't they. the rims looked better on my previous celica that had no sideskirts or splitters, but with my current GT-4 setup it just makes the 16 inch rims look small right??
how do you like my primered fender huh ha, one can of paint isn't enough, I ran out of paint
oh and a broken/scratched tail light that came with the car when I bought it
Psh, you can still see out the window, just the tops a little cut off, all you gotta do Is duck your head a little haha .
I agree with what you are saying about the wheels, 17's would look nice.
noo I mean I want to cut down my riser blocks down to a smaller size like this in the future after I repaint the car :
This is a friend of mine from the Netherlands.
These blocks are custom made. I think this is slightly better.
I think the wheels look ok, it's just the arch gap throwing you off. A wee bit of drop and a wee bit of spacering and you'll be grand
T
Oh, I gotcha. Yeah that would look sweet but for sure block some vision, haha.
Another option is the Eurou style blocks
http://www.kamikaze.com.hk/product.php?id_product=76
I never really liked the look of the riser blocks and I don't see the purpose if you're not AWD. I'd say just stick with the perfectly designed 94-95 style spoiler.
Do you really feel a difference in airflow at high speeds?
leave your riser blocks! keep the gt4 look! i freakin love it! just give it new wheels and a bit lower drop!
your car is coming along very well man!
I just had another thought for your lack of power complaint, are you even revving to 7000?
the 9000 rpm tachometer sort of ends around the same place as the 8000rpm tachometer, the numbers are closer together so when your hitting the 7000 according to your dash it may only be around 5800 - 6000rpm.
if you rev it up to the limiter, just see what point on the gauge it bounces at, it should be either 7000rpm or 7200rpm at the cutoff point (can't remember 3SGE, I know 3SGTE is 7200).
the way the UK guys do it is to use/wire in the entire JDM cluster, put an MPH sticker over the KM/H lettering and then use a 1.6 divider speed signal adjuster so that the speedo and odometers tick over in miles, it also raises the speed cut limit from 200KM/H to effectively 200MPH
you can't go wrong with either the gt-four raise blocks or the ss-iii ones, either one looks good IMO. Also, these cars look a lot better with 17"+ rims
edited: any updates on that maf?
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i'll get some video footage of me topping out 4th gear yes I know I said it. Its a must so you guys know what I'm talking about, I wonder if my 4th and 5th gears are shorter?? 4th gear reaches 108mph on the speedo which was less than my previous ST Celica in the same gear. I'll also rev all the way upp to redline.
I have beams tachometer and the rpm gauge with a speed signal thing that converts it to mph. Not entirely sure on how the guys did that since the car already came that way. Cut off for beams motor is 7,450 rpm.
As far as the MAF resetting the ecu did help with about 10hp. It just such a shame we only get 95 ron as our top best gas here in CA and all other states get 98 ron.... So buying that race fuel to mix with 95 ron is somewhat expensive. I should be getting my original intake back soon from what the guy told me, he just has to do smog with it. I did put a screen door mesh in front of the maf but it still feels the same. I just need my dyno results. No fun either cause I lost my job on friday so I'm trying to figure out where my income will come from.
when I do get my stock intake box back what drop in filter would you suggest for under $40??? I used to have the K&N but brand new that costs $55.
I've got connections. I may be able to hook you up with a K&N for around $40.
How do you top in 4th gear? lol my 5th gear tops at about a grand from the redline! but I'm going to install a switch for the speed sensor so it tricks the ecu & etc. haha
try re-positioning the maf
also, it's pretty common to lose some low-end torque after installing a cone filter. However, you gain a little bit more at top to compensate.
here you go delusionz im not redlining my gears as I'll make a video for that later. But tell me if you notice how off my speedometer is. I'm in 5th Gear
http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view¤t=VIDEO0002.mp4
here is a youtube video so you can compare. note the rpm gauge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrTfiXIddls
You said it yourself you are using a S54 transmission with a MR-S LSD, so you are changing the final drive ratio.
Thats why at 4,000rpm your doing 123km/h and the youtube one is doing 141km/h.
Rusty say whatt??!! now you've totally confused me???
Where did you get that conclusion from??? My speed signal is broken or whatever converts the km/h to mph could be screwed up. That makes no sense 30 km/h in first gear is like 15 mph???!!!!
Both you and I know that all SS-III Celica came with a Helical LSD which is the same exact setup that I had. And all the time I've been here on the site I've never read any different specs on the Final Drive Gear for SS-III Celica's or that installing an helical lsd would change my final drive?
on page 3 you said
Im Afraid you may be right Rusty, here is some video footage! I think I do have a 4.529 final drive gear ratio.
http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view¤t=1stGear.mp4
http://s483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/1999%20Celica%20GT/?action=view¤t=2ndand3rdGear.mp4
God that thing sounds beautiful, regardless of what ratio you have.
hmm not sure what could be your issue, the fuel is an obvious one, as would be a longer final drive, but not a lot you can do about that, the intake is another, without your stock airbox not much you can do about that either lol. I know you and your freinds car feel different have you compared( not raced) them to see if there is a difference? remember what you feel is the change in torque rather than constant torque and the beams has a more even and flatter torque curve so you could feel less despite it being faster. The mr2 beams airbox had a revision the celica never did to my knowlodge to help with the maf, so even on the stock box there can still be issues, good old maf, achilles heal of the beams.
are you getting a nice surge around 4000rpm? or is the midrange quite flat and constant. really the only thing you can do is get it on a dyno and see what your a/f is anything up till then is clutching at straws.
oh and agreed that is a fine sounding car, would sound termandous revving out to just over 8000rpm bit like its eating the road.
ahh yea crummy 95 octane. Well with a 4.529 final drive, I will gain more torque right??? Another thing I'm a bit dissatisfied is with my current gearing. only 85 vs 91 mph in 3rd gear. My 4th gear does top out at 107mph in 4th gear, weak!! My top speed has been knocked down a whole 12 mph. I read something on beams forums that the Redtop motor will still produce peak power until 8,000 rpm. The member Protok has a video floating somewhere on youtube of him taking his ST202 to 8 grand. So does this mean you can do it on a stock ecu or does it have to be standalone?? what do you know about 8k on Redtop Motor?? So here's my way of fixing that in the future sometime:
My MAF has a few tricks up my sleeve. Hopefully that will all get sorted out by Thursday or even by Wednesday. Torque actually seems pretty good I think, but ya Dyno Test for sure.
I'm trying to sort out my Air/Fuel Ratio's at the moment with Derrick's AEM Wideband sensor and Honeycomb Airflow Straighteners. Hopefully I can get my hands on an oem Intake box within the next week. Once I get a sensible Air/Fuel Ratio readings, I'll fill up the car with racing fuel and make some video's!! jobless atm
I haven't kept up on this thread, what kind of A/F problems have you been having ?
wide open throttle at 7,000 rpm is at 11.4 Ratio.... Wideband sensor is installed behind steering rack/subframe. I know its a bit away down the system, but it was the best place I could put it at. My whole exhaust is one piece from the downpipe back. At cruising speed it fluctuates from 14.1 to 15.2 ratio.
sounds normal.
I had a wideband on my 5s and that's totally normal with that motor.
If you think you're too rich, put the OEM fuel pump back in, the walbro pushes way too much.
I had put one in my 5s when I was going to turbo (instead went 3s) and it was super rich.
time 4 turbo beams with aftermarket ecu?
hmm you mean sounds normal with my walbro fuel pump or sounds normal for the beams engine?? I was going to originally buy an oem fuel pump, but I thought the beams and 5s were different. I was going to go with the walbro 190lph When I bought the walbro, I bought it because I thought the more the better. I never had in mind to turbo the beams motor at all. I love the sound on the N/A and quick response.
I would indeed love to turbo my motor but with stock internals. I know I would have to run boost at 6-7psi max and then it would only be a matter of time before I would blow my seals on the pistons right??? Not to turbo savvy. If I were to turbo the beams motor I wouldn't want more than 40 hp and 40 pounds of torque at the crank. Preferably about 30 hp and 30 ft lbs torque would be better. Any more than than and I would just be waiting it spinning my tires.
I'm running on 95ron = 91 octane and I know for a fact that my engine is retarding timing. Is this another cause of my rich air/fuel ratio's???
If you wanted turbo you shouldn't have gotten a BEAMS.
You just have some bugs to work out to get it running right.
You should probably get it on a dyno to see where you are standing.
Malfunctioning sensors are a nightmare, hopefully it's something simply like your SRI creating turbulent air.
Best of luck.
Lol, Screw the bugs, spending time and money just to get stock worrking correctly, may aswell go straight for the best possible setup, make it a project car rather than putting it on just DD duties. Beams engine with small turbo, map sensor conversion & ecu. Keep your VVT-i and run 10 pounds on a peashooter like a T28.
Lol your beams sounds similar to my Si....
I'd love to know how you smogged your celica with the current setup. Must have a good friend.
fyi, my beams was coughing and loosing power, slapped a new afm and now is all good, im using 93 octane here, and with the oem pump.... you are too rich.
disappointment discovery over the past couple of days. I went to 76 gas station for A. You can get free gas for life if you fill up with 10 gal or more and use a scratcher to see if you won any prizes. B. Mix 100 octane racing Fuel with 91 octane and I've achieved a very solid 93 octane mixture.
Turns out I'm still running rich!! Basically the same readings as when I was using 91 octane. So I'm getting two sides to the story. Batman says I'm fine and you say Im rich??? I thought, that with the 91 octane I was running rich because ecu was retarding timing and sending more fuel into my pistons. uggh what a drag. My next step is to buy the two 1 inch honeycomb filter, taping them together and installing them in front of the MAF Sensor. I'm also going to check pressure at the fuel rail....
Oh Norberto, so you bought a brand new MAF Sensor??
you are running a little rich.
Few solutions:
Put the OEM fp back in
Use a stock airbox.
what do you think the A/F should be ?
i had an extra afm at home. Then i cleaned the old one with carburetor cleaner...
put the oem pump back.... listen to the caped guy!!!
seriously the beams runs well on the oem pump. Ill take a video of mine tomorrow...
Stop measuring the A/F ratio for now.. and start with the pump...
I love driving my BEAMs you should too. Start with the simple things....
first thing, I told you on page 1 the US celica pump is the same on the Beams, you even quoted me.
ok, so what do you think your A/F ratio should be (for your Beams more specificaly) ?
do you think the Beams (or any stock motor) is tuned to the highest torque curve for every rpm band ?
If you really think it is, then why the f would most of the beams MR2 guys use safc/neos or simple piggybacks for tuning ?
It's a stock motor, stock tune, it runs rich. Take out the wideband because having a wideband on an n/a motor without any sort of reason to have it (like a piggyback or ems) is useless.
well I mixed a near perfect 94 octane fuel in the car about a week or so ago. Then ordered two of the same diameter, but longer in length honeycomb filters. Stuck them together with duck tape, and put them inside the intake like so:
I thought the low fuel had to be one of the reason to me running rich but actually had nothing to do with after all. I shortly noticed this about 30 min after filling up with the racing fuel So I installed the honeycomb filter which happens to stick about 1 cm in front of the AFM Sensor, reset the ecu and went for a drive. Unsatisfying results as my air/fuel ratio was indeed at the same... One thing that did get better was my idle. I no longer have a rough idle and it stayed at a constant 800rpm for at least 2 minutes
Now onto checking fuel pressure which should be anywhere between 38-44psi and if that fails me, then off to finding an oem fuel pump...
got a question, what did u do with this sensor...
since u dont have the original oem intake
I'm at a loss for words. But what the hell is that. It must of been stuck to the intake??
Also I need to weld a bung to my intake piping, where can I take it? an exhaust shop??? So I can reconnect the exhaust crank case vent hose.
that's a vaccum sensor for the charcoal canister.
the beams only has 2 or 3 vac lines, that's 2 of them. From the TB to the sensor to the canister.
thats another sensor missing.. then... did you plug those lines or would it cause a leak?
that looks more like a vacuum solenoid valve than a sensor to me
Yes my pcv has always been plugged into the intake manifold.
Well I got quoted $25 to weld the exhaust side breather into the aluminum intake piping. Thought it through and thought wait it will be permanently on their. So I dug through some boxes of extra hardware I had in my garage and got these results:
Air to Fuel Ratio still the same as before I installed the honeycomb filter and fitted the exhaust breather hose. Starting to suspect that its the fuel pump, still have to test the pressure before making assumptions, but as Batman (since he knows way more than I do). Should be obtaining my oem intake sometime within the next 2 weeks as well as with the idler tube!!
Can someone get me a picture of the idler tube connected on their car please. I ask this because I don't see any extra plugs laying near the throttle body???
that's it right there.
It goes from the trottle body to the valve then to the canister.
but since it interferes with the brake reservoir..
i made a bracket...'
I checked my engine bay the other day and yes I do have that Vaccuum Switch Valve present on my engine. It's attached onto the chassis of the car with a bracket as well.
why make it so complicated, attach sensor and put oem pump and test the car... You keep talking about the air fuel ratio, i never even close had problems with that.
Stop reinventing the wheel, just do what Dustin tells you and go from there...
all beams are equal, mine is not special, i dont need that honeycomb crap, a/f measurement and ****. you keep wasting your money like that, keep it simple...
you dont need that vsv valve, it's for the charcoal canister, if you remove ur charcoal canister, u can just unplug everything from and to the vsv, plug from the TB as well. That's what I did to mine, and the vsv is just hanging there, i havn't had time to completely remove it yet.
Have you replaced your fuel filter yet? It's a good idea to replace ur fuel filter because when I replaced mine, I learned that the previous owner used a bolt that was too long and restricted fuel flow from the lines.
As for the intake, i was gonna tell you this earlier, but i agree with the guy above my post, you dont need that crap. Here's the secret, it's about maf placement. If u look at bill sherwoods ae86 beams blacktop, he repositioned his maf from his original spot.
Lastly, pay the $50 bucks to have a shop dyno ur car! They'll tell you everything wrong with ur car forsure!
ya someone else on beams forums mentioned as well that the vsv valve wasn't important at all. The owner said he already replaced the fuel filter. Placement of the MAF??? He had straws right before the MAF Sensor which is the same set up that I have right now.
I rented a Fuel Pressure Gauge. I connected the fuel pressure gauge to the top of the fuel filter along with the banjo line. Put a paper clip in the diagnostic box where the fp and +b terminals are. Turned the ignition to the on position but didnt get a reading on the fuel pressure gauge. What am I doing wrong!! I didnt test to see if there was 12 volts on the battery. That shouldn't really matter right?? I don't have a multi meter by the way.
How can you expect to diagnose without a dvom? Did you smell gas when you were testing? It might be possible you didn't tighten the banjo down or some aliens are messing with you...
okay so earlier today I went to the exhaust shop and they took out my old (no name brand) broken catalytic converter out and they replaced it with a straight pipe.
I took it out for a test drive right after and now my car is backfiring. I didn't see any flames, I was driving the car with my brother and we both heard the car backfire. I've read that it could be many different variables :
Its running rich (even though no ones knows exact stock beams air/fuel), but an 11 air/fuel ratio isn't that rich?
Ignition Timing??
Mainly just the fact that I removed the catalytic converter right? I get the backfire when I'm rev matching the engine to the transmission.
Pardon me if I might be basic, but maybe you're just hearing a new pops and noises associated with the straight pipe, rather than misfiring.
if you wanted to turbo your GT, why didnt you come to me? dont you know that i pioneered the turbo 7th gen celica?
time to upgrade to better brakes stock wont cut it and if you do plan on taking it to a racetrack you will need better ones believe me you wont want to experience them going out on you its not fun lol
$600 BEAMS? That's a steal. I'm glad you're getting the power you want out of it now
how would I go about centering my maf so that it sits directly center inside the intake housing?? The honeycomb filter in front didn't change the air/fuel ratio at all. I was told its all about placement. The HKS adapter has a 71mm inside diameter but it allows the MAF to sit smack dab in the middle of the intake piping. Current Setup:
hmm don't you just love OEM, I know I do. Got the air filter included for free little modification to remove that big resonator box that detonates the noise and makes your oem intake quieter. Will also be putting back on aem air/fuel ratio to see to if I get a better mixture with the oem intake and more power. Oh how I hope!!
where you score that.
well, my beams will be for sale very soon, so it does not matter.
feel any different with the factory intake on now?
But engine noise and sucking and wining > quiet lol.
hehe some more testing. Bought this from a place that's called Rod Millen Motorsport. Piping is made out of a metal and then powder coated black. the results :
This also comes with a little gasket so air doesn't escape
^^ ou know thats not the right diameter, so why even bother....
its gonna make ur car run rich
smaller diameter = greater air flow per unit area. since the maf only reads a small area it will get a false "higher airflow" reading
so whats wrong with the oem airbox? I guess you are looking at the beams as a strong powerplant but its not. There is no difference in gain from the one i sent you and the hks i have. I just got it for looks. Because its rare,and i only paid 50 bucks.
with that in mind, the adapter i was using was fine, my car ran fine. yes every now and then had a hiccup, but that was ok.
The beams is just another econobox engine, that has been tweaked, but it is still economy engine? or not? well i have to use premium gas. Cause regular dont cut it.
i just hope that you dont continue to spend money and end up in the same place as the beginning.
For those of those who read this, if you want power this is not the engine, as it gets old quick, and cannot be modified without serious cash.
This engine is an alternative with a little kick, and no turbo. Which i love and it does the job for me. Well for now...
Wish you good luck, and if you need help let me know. I can get you a pic of the maf on my hks adapter....
you're right to want to apply some math to a problem like this but why go through all that hand calculation for only one iteration when you could just model it in solidworks in 5 min and run a flow sim. Much easier imo
I look on building a cold air intake in the future. I want the filter sitting in the front left highbeam headlight with a box surrounding it like some gt4 members have already done. That's why I'm looking for the perfect aftermarket maf adapter. I know if I get my hands on on hks with Apexi filter in the future and a sard then I'll be able to see which one gets the best power. And as I stated before we only get crummy 91 octane here in Cali as best pump fuel.
I"ll be borrowing the AEM Air/Fuel Ratio tomorrow from my friend to see if there's a true difference in that adapter you have me roberto and the one I bought a few days ago. I'm also going to get that air box that sits inside of the left fender. So it'll be true cold air and see stock air/fuel ratio. Fuel octane has nothing to do with air/fuel ratio as tested before.
I"d say its a powerful powerplant with good amount of torque. This engine back in the late 1990's was good.
Nothing wrong with the stock oem box (I'm starting to feel that its the best setup), I just love the screaming noise of the short ram intake
then sell me your box... lol, dont get so desperate and be patient.
You want to center the maf, grap a piece of plastic, and cut it and rubber sandwich and put it between maf and adapter...
here is the filter ans part number
http://www.jps-trading.com/product_info.php?products_id=801
just dont use the mushroom filter as i have been told is crap/
so if i understand your math/fluid dynamics lecture up there, not only does the fact the pipe is smaller cause the MAF to read higher, but the fact that its more centered than stock does as well?
the MAF works by measuring the "cooling" effect the flowing air has on a heated wire, so i imagine faster air = more cooling effect.
nice input everyone. I did some testing today with new maf housing with the following air/fuel ratio :
Rod Millen Motorsport Metal 67.4mm inner diameter adapter = 10.4
Ebay Intake (which is currently still for sale online) with 71.4mm inner diameter = 10.9
OEM Intake with 71mm inner diameter = 11.1
Power felt the best with the oem setup also because I was sucking up cold air from the fender area.
now trying to see if I can find a 75mm intake setup so that I can lean out more....
how far is the center of the maf on the stock intake pipe from the tube wall? That's what I need to know. Once the calculation is done and some simulation done as well to prove the theory, the final result should be stickied or something because this is something that 98% of beams swappers struggle with. For my own sanity... are you trying to get an aftermarket intake because of the sound or because of the "power" gain? You have the luxury that most people do not have. You've got the stock intake, this work is primarily going to bge done for those who do not have the stock intake and can't get it....
but let me know what the measurement is to your best guess. Maybe a pic of what it looks like
Thanks
Trace
ps. the calculations I first did may have been for Vaverage instead of Vcenter. So the math may be a little off, as far as spacers are concerned, but the concept still exists.
could of swore I posted it here. Turns out i only posted it on the beams forums, but here it is :
I'm looking to lean out as much as possible so that I use less fuel and gain more power. I know this can be tuned with an standalone ecu but I don't want to spend the money on that right now. I'm also looking to build an intake that sits directly in front of the left highbeam headlight like so. Actually I can't find the link, but if I can place then cone filter directly where the headlight sits then that's even better. I plan on removing the battery from it place and building a cold air intake box their with wind feeding directly through the high beam left headlight.
ok, what do you think your micrometer would say the distance is from the inside part of the tube to the center of that sensor? hard to guess here but i'd say about 64mm?
From the middle of that sensor to the outside wall.
I need to know what the distance is from the center of the maf to the wall of the tube. Similar to the picture where you showed that the inside diameter was 67.35mm or whatever, how many mm is it from the center of the sensor to the tube wall.
Not what I want to know. I need a new picture. Where one point of your micrometer is on the center of your maf. The other on the inside part of the tube. How close is the sensor to the wall? Can anyone else with the stock airbox provide this info.
It sounds like he's wanting the radius? which is just half the diameter... 71mm ÷ 2 = 35.5mm
really? as it looks like you just edited 6 minutes after my post...
YES! extend the blue line to the grey dot though to make it longer. That's what I want. EXCEPT the measurement needs to be taken on your stock intake. I need to know what factory conditions are.
he wants this:
Are you kidding me??I can tell by looking at it that it isn't centered. This isn't rocket science. Measure the thing. It's not in the middle. On page 9 one of the guys even says it isn't centered. I bet it's about 8mm offset.
Alright, picked up a caliper today. Here are the pictures of the SARD measurements.
Not perfectly centered. Close, but not perfect.
Inner diameter- interestingly enough, 72.3 mm, not 71.
Outer diameter- 76.42 mm.
As close as I can estimate, MAF center measurement- 38 mm.
Dan
Thank-you! Now to find out what the stock is so that we can compare!!
The OEM intake is half the price as the SARD and works better. My choice is clear.
richee you interestingly, posted that the inner diameter on the sard is 72.3mm. haha funny I find that my ebay intake piping is actually 71.3mm so its only 1mm larger. I actually measured the inner diameter on my aluminum piping where it meets the end of a 90 degree bend. So in turn my ebay piping is basically identical to you sard inner diameter.
Your maf sensor is more dead center then my ebay setup. All this talk about turbulence. When you look at the sard air filter itself it looks as if it would cause lots of turbulence just like the mushroom green filter. The Apexi and Fujita cause the least turbulence by design and claims made by the above illustration I posted. I"d like to get my hands on the sard to see air/fuel ratio. Since it's been claimed to make more power over the stock box. I"ll get the measurements tomorrow on the stock maf sensor location.
reckon you want to have an intake collection.
I guess I can add to this thread fo the sake of more information..
this is the ebay intake setup (yeah it's not the greatest but I'm cheap, lol):
Using a ****ty caliper to measure out 73.5mm:
and this is where it sits inside. Sorry can't measure the distance since it sits too far down the piping:
so, yeah...
^ it looks deeper than center from here but hard to tell. I'm comparing it to the grains of the metal pipe on the side. About where the shadows change and the circle turns vertical. Does it work alright? What fuel do you run in her?
For what it's worth, I had a 1MZ Camry Weapon-R intake when I first swapped. It had 3 nipples next to the MAF and that's why I ditched it. I noticed when I got the SARD that low-end power didn't feel as good as before. I measured the Weapon-R a few days ago and it was 71.5 mm. Who knew that .8 mm would cost a noticeable difference?
yup yup here it is :
also was shortening the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail and came out with this. Also buying that same line that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel rail from toyodiy is about $180 plus shipping. they are out of their minds. I should have no problems with this setup right?
Who the **** is this guy? And who made him jesus?
so ricochet I've got the measurement for you. Whats the verdict??!
when i can find time to do those calculations I'll let you know.
lol, now ill go home and put the noose in my neck
Referring back to the S2000 antenna, was there anything you had to do to make it fit? Or did you just buy it off ebay, and screw it in? My antenna was torn off and I like the way that one looks on your celi
So after 8 months of not buying anything for my car I come up with this...
That's a nice little haul you have there.
You stole my SS suspension ya ass.
much better than using 2 x 4's
although this take an extra Hour and a half by yourself to remove and install I did so, so that removing the transmission and re-installing made it 10 times easier!
and besides they both needed a deep cleaning, after both end cv boots were torn and was driving on them for a month.
before :
after :
hard to see but took at least an hour to clean all grease off of them.
going back to oem mounts only, to lessen vibration.
after 10,000 miles of driving this is what a polyurethane insert does to a new motor mount :
clutch hybrid although a hybrid disk isn't best setup for 3sge beams flywheel, check out richee3 progress thread Its all explained there : http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=73135&st=640&start=640
As you can see Southbend Clutch uses Exedy parts which I like (exedy parts are = to Aisin, toyota main manufacture for oem parts, along with Denso) still went with a oem release bearing to be safe.
I also just got a 99 celica stock tho and was wondering if I can check out your car sometimes live in Cali also never met another celica 6gen fan id like to tho
toyota forced me to install a lightweight flywheel because I somehow missed the fact that a 3sgte pressure plate will not work on a beams flywheel. not so much forced but I didnt want to install a oem 3sgte 19 pound flywheel (which would of taken another few days since the shop was already closed) plus didnt want an oem beams pressure plate.
F1 Racing Chromoly 11.4 pounds
hehe cleaned transmission from transmission shop called anaheim gear
and my exhaust set up :
before I had these universal 14 inch fans just attached to the radiator with zip ties. Now I've made brackets :
You definitely don't want the 3S-GTE flywheel. Good call. While it works and I owe bloodMoney my life for giving me a flywheel, my spare BEAMS with shot rings was way more rev-happy than the one I have now. Plus I suspect my flywheel of being the culprit for my car running rich. I'm jelly of your lightweight flywheel
yea it was surprisingly cheap also. at $185 including CA tax thats pretty good. no rough idle either. It weighs 3.6 pounds lighter than oem which isn't much. not sure how much of an affect it has just yet. still taking it easy on the new clutch.
also do you guys think this shifter cable needs replacing???
yes why wait for that thing to break since you already have the car down fix it
Yes. 3600rpm is unusually high for 110km/h, the 2nd video looks better
interesting conclusion. I'm guessing your happy with it now?
At the time when I came up with the reason why the speed/revs was different. I was basing it on what you'd told us S54 transmission with a MR-S LSD. Put the numbers into a calculator and they matched to what was happening in the video. But if your happy with it now, 'rev vs speed' and a smoother feeling transmission. all good
my question is which one of these is the pinion so I can can't the teeth!! but your mention of it being a mrs helica lsd still doesn't make sense. When the guy pulled apart both transmission he said ring count was the same for both lsd and open differential. Yet now with the car driving the gears are that like a normal s54 transmission. Can it be that the pinion teeth count is different on this transmission thats below in the picture, can you point out to me what internal transmission part is the pinion???!!!
This is quoted by a 6gc member via email :
Very interesting I have learned something new about the ring and pinion compatability between the S and C series transmission. However dont get so cocky yet lol... read on and you'll see that there is nothing in that thread which shows why that trans seems to be geared lower/shorter then a stock 6th gen GT. If anything it would be geared longer... which is what u where saying right?
If not then then yes it is possible ur car is geared higher/longer then a stock gt but i doubt its that of the custom work and probably because that trans is NOT an S54 but an S51... if it is an S54 then its the 71/18 = 3.94444 version. But this would lead to better performance since it would take advantage of your higher redline as well as the increase in power and torque. It might also lead to better fuel economy.
"The 4.176 S54 has 17 teeth on the output shaft driven gear and 71 teeth on the ring gear."
These are the s54's that are in the gt 6th gens.
"The Corolla's C59 uses a 67 tooth ring gear with a 17 tooth drive gear for 3.941. This is the perfect match for the S54's 17 tooth drive gear."
"So this gives the S54 with 17 teeth these possible differential gear ratios: 3.941, 4.058, and 4.176"
smaller the number the higher the gear.
so if you had the c59 ring gear then your car would be geared higher.
"It might be possible to use the 19 tooth output shaft from the C150 in the S series transmission, but that compatibility has not been proven. You'd also have to press the gears off each output shaft, which can be time consuming or expensive. These are only possibilities, not actualities. Gear lash between the output shaft pinion gear and the ring gear will be affected if you change one without changing the other. The gear lash may be too great for your particular application, like if you switched to a 67 tooth ring gear when the pinion gear was designed for a 71 tooth, and such. Compatibility has not been proven with such ring gears in the S transmissions as gear lash must be considered and measured."
I find it unlikely, but not impossible someone would have gone through this trouble. If they did however it would still lead to a higher final drive as "C150 3.545 1.904 1.310 0.969 0.815 Diff: 3.526" Still higher then stock.
In fact looking at the numbers on that thread the s54 in the 6th gens has the lowest final drive of all of the options.
.... and then i saw ur post all the way down at the bottom.
"lets not forget the C160 and C60 final drive gear ratio. I have a 4.529 final drive gear ratio currently in my S54 Helical LSD transmission. Greater acceleration!! "
So your saying someone pressed the gears of of each output shaft and swapped out the output shaft and ring gear from a C160 or C60 trans into that transmission I sold you... Perhaps but ill believe it when i see pictures of the ring and pinion gear.
and yes I'm happy with it now!! I don't think i'll ever get the money to buy a standalone ecu. Once the larger diameter wheels are fitted I'll have slightly longer gears. just want better air/fuel ratio
top left on the first shaft I'm pretty sure
intsalled these today. good upgrade and fairly cheap as well. stiffer front feel
they should have came with the grease fitting like you see in trdproven end link install thread. I just got unlucky and got the earlier version, even though I also ordered it from the same place as trdproven (rockauto)
someones got them a gsxr
hey i was thinking, do you use the factory wiring for your fuel pump? if you do, does it still retain a resistor pack? if your running full power to the fuel pump it might explain why yours is noisy,
through the factory wiring your fuel pump should only see 11.something volts?
oh, those are some odd looking endlinks you got there, they look like dumb bells lol. do you have upgraded swaybars too? what would be next? reinforcing the thin little mounting tabs on your coilovers? lol
FROM this
to this:
At first I had hard time shifting in high revs and down shifting into 2nd and 4th. Then it was so bad I only had 1st, 3rd and 5th gear. HAd to push my car when in reverse (embarrassing). Then it got so bad that whenever I went into 5th gear it wouldn't want to come out. I was have to turn off the car and then move the shifter on the transmission in order to get it popped outta 5th gear. Now gears feel so precise and smooth.
Soon I'll be buying Dunlop Direzza DZ101 in 215/50R16. Still trying to get rid of my gt4 bumper and hood so I can fit the c-one replica bumper and oem hood. sale from hood and bumper will allow me to buy tires and have some monies left over for other things.
Sold walbro pump and stock oem pump is working just fine. ahh the silence, what a joy
and yea delusionz I'll be reinforcing the tabs on the control arm as soon as I break in my new summer tires. don't want this happening again :
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Mcpherson%20Susp/BrokenSwayBarlinktoAArm.jpg.html
glad to see you've finally fixed that cable
I figured the fuel filter (bottom port) is M14x1.5 , the banjo bolt on the fuel rail is M12x1.25, I will have
M14x1.5 to AN-6 adaptor, braided hose, AN-6 fittings, inline AN-6 fuel filter & AN-6 banjo
check out earl's over there in the US if you keen to splash some cash
thx to richee I was able to get a oem beams fuel line as well as to batman because He told me the st fuel bracket will work just fine. Although one thing. the fuel filter bracket for the st does not completely hold the celica gt fuel filter because it is smaller. You can see by the pics, it was quite a hassle to try and fit the bracket around the filter correctly. Also found out fuel line goes in between head and intake manifold
Before : Here is the Stock GT FUel filter bracket and location. On the st celica's the fuel hard line is all curved, but the gt is straight!
AFTER :
I have the same issue. But it's definitely better than the setup I had before. Glad the fuel line is working for you!
Crazy. I'm sorry the info I gave you wasn't 100%
Squeeze the shiz tighter or put something around the filter to hold it better.
I knew the ST bracket was further away from the frame rail than the GT.
I just looked it up and found out that the ST filter has a bigger diameter than the GT.
We put a new fuel filter in when we swapped the Beams in.
So I go out to the garage and pop the hood of my Beams and we're using a GT bracket and ST filter, (wtf ! I bet Stef told the parts guy at the dealer she needed a fuel filter for a 94 Celica and they just assumed ST - because her car is an ST) and the filter is wedged into the bracket and the bracket can't be bolted together. I can take a pic if you want, I have the opposite problem as you but mine isn't going anywhere.
Moral of the story, the GT bracket/filter does work if everything is routed properly with the correct hose, just use the filter to match the bracket, if not use the ST stuff.
so this is still driving me up the wall only because I want to sell this final drive to a member in peru since he's raised his rev limit to 8,000 rpm and he's got super long gears, but this is what I've come up with.
The picture below is the car at 4,000 rpm at different speeds because of the different final drive gear ratios
update: So i fitted the mevotech rear end links, but the fitment it quite odd is it safe?? I feel like bending the tab/mounting point on the strut so the end link can be more parallel to the shock. here the pix explain it:
Seems to me like the link is binding now.
so it turns out i had a 71 ring count on the lsd transmission I got from my friend here in los angeles. So my guess is that all celica that came with beams open differential and McPherson suspension ss2 models came with 3.944 final drive. the 3.944 is only found in 3rd gen 3sge engines.
but yes you guys are right stock s54 4.176 final drive gear ratio is short i'll say.
Moog rear End links. oh yes i took one left hander turn and wow i'd say it handles like a Type r. but i still have yet to really test them out. I slightly bent the mounting tabs outward with a 10 inch vice grip in order to make sure the end link sat as parallel to the shock as possible
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4819_zps468f1731.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4823_zps1918159a.jpg.html
i could of updated my exterior parts update back in december 2012 but hesistated cause i hated the fact that the shop didnt cover up the front bumper grills and painted my radiator, horn, and subframe silver. but anyhow you get the idea!!! yea i deleted the sunroof so what. the shop didnt do that well of a job aligning the bumper perfectly to the body. but its a replica of a replica c-one bumper so they did the best they could. i'll probably get it remoldled perfectly after summer.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4826_zpsddadc023.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4816_zps0a0436e8.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4820_zps5f80b63d.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4825_zps679abe1c.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4824_zps6e42da1b.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4827_zps591f84d7.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/DSCN4831_zpse86a0afd.jpg.html
Ugh, yeah wish I saw your fuel situation sooner, the lower pressure hose is definitely not ok for use on a fuel injection setup; unless its before the pump in an external pump setup, or after the regulator.
I like your modded c-one bumper, came it out really good! would look sweet with a big ol' intercooler in its mouth haha. cars looking good man!
Was going to say it's been awhile since I checked in, but it seems that'd be your case as well. How are you going to get the sun in your hair now though?
So jealous of your car. I've always wanted to have a red top in my car but I don't have that street "luxury" of getting it smogged in Cali like you did. Lol.
Lol. As much as I want to. I just don't know any people out there. I've heard you can use a PO box as your home address and get a dmv at that PO Box's state?
You can get a P.O. box as your home address, my grandmother does such. Not sure what you mean with the DMV and all though. Speaking of DMV the one advantage to living in the middle of nowhere you can get a car titled or license renewed in about 10 minutes.
good to see it looking one colour again
so whats next?
i have a grill thats completely silver, so i'm going to paint it black and then clear coat it so it doesn't rust. even though its summer here. this is what the inside part of the bumper should look like. my crappy paint skills
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/waterbrushgreyishvents_zps9daf1b11.jpg.html
whats next hmm. polyurethane bushings is all I need to complete the suspension. i still need some new rear rotors along with upgraded brake pads. remove the governor. and make the car lighter, some clear sidemarkers, remanufactured twin piston avalon calipers or ss3 calipers. once this member that lives not to far from me figures out the conversion for superstrut i might go that route.
I just picked up some clear sidemarkers that I won't be using if you need them. Bnib. Throw me an offer if you're interested. Your car is looking good.
Keep the how do i register my car in ca with jdm swap yo urselves. Therefore write to each other with pm's thx. I dont want this thread to get long like some members threads ha
Sorry about that. I'm just too damn helpful.
ok so i believe toyota took a poop on me. Now note i don't drive the car hard except on a few occasions and the last time i was near redlining (i never redline it nor bounce off the rev limiter) was about a week before this occured. I was driving on the fwy about 65 mph at 3100 rpm and then notice a strange noise. I couldnt tell exactly what it was because I have a bad front right wheel bearing thats been howling at me for the past 3 weeks. I then notice a check engine light turn on a few seconds after i hear the strange noise. Try to step on the gas and notice a 60-70% hp loss. My car now sounds like a subaru. The knocking in the video wasnt as loud as when it first happened. I drove the car 3 miles with the check engine light and noise.you can see a bit of white smoke coming from the valve cover.
How do you read check engine lights? I have a link on how to read them. but didn't quite understand it. i'll have to reread it. The video of the check engine light cycles thru 3 times. sorry i just wanted to make sure i didn't miss anything.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/3S-GE%20Beams/VIDEO0038_zps9ed8f6c7.mp4
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr197/BonzaiCelica/3S-GE%20Beams/DSCN48491_zps86b4c2ba.mp4
I'd start by checking motor mounts first. The first time I started mine after the transmission swap, it made a sound close to that - scared every ounce of everything out of me, but it ended up being only a slightly loose mount bolt.
In the Diagnostic box under the hood, there will be a TC pin. Take a short piece of electrical wire or a paperclip and run it to a good ground point with the key turned to "on." That will get the CEL flashing, then you check the following link:
http://www.mr2.com/forums/beams-owners-group/Toyota-MR2-67398-toyota-code-error-all-models.html
It's that easy. I'll watch the videos after my doctor's appointment here in a little bit.
I get code 15 from seeing your CEL, which is ignition signal.
checked oil level recently? Could be valves or rod.
I'd look at getting a replacement beams engine, greytop as they are cheaper.
I'd pull your COP's and check on those plugs... Based on the code 15 and the noise it's making, it sounds almost like it threw a plug. I've had it happen to my 5S before. Cruising at 35 mph, suddenly there was a pop, no power, and it sounded almost just like that. Turns out my 5S had just spit a spark plug out and that they're known for doing that. I'd bet your BEAMS just did the same thing, but it's not immediately apparent because the valve cover is hiding the COP's and spark plugs.
my friend told me to drain the pan and see if i see any metal flakes. i hope my engine isn't done. how the helk did you guys come up with code 15? please share your wisdom.
whats COP? sorry im a newb! yea i figured a spark plug must have gone capoop suddently or the plug for the coil pack got loose
[]...|||||
10...5 = 15
COP = Coil On Plug
Follow richee's check first, then if that doesn't work, you can find out which cylinder the noise is coming from, by removing one of the plugs to the cop (being careful when you're doing this so you don't get a shock) & then sieving in the oil for gold/metal flakes
You count the number of CEL flashes to check the code. In your case, you had 1 flash, short pause, 5 flashes. Long pause so it moves on to the next code, but you only have one code so it repeats the code 15.
What those guys said. Hopefully it's just a coil or plug, car troubles are never fun. Especially after you've imbued your soul into them.
ding ding ding we have a winner. i did throw a plug. it shot it straight up into the coil pack and melted stuck onto it. If the cylinders on beams motor are numbered left to right from 1-4 then number 3 was completely dead and had some oil around the plug. also cylinder 2 was flooded with oil. I'm hoping cylinder 3 didn't leak any coolant into it. I guess i didn't tighten plug #3, but i installed these 2 years ago. i was informed that when you install iridium plugs you need to put a special lubricant on the thread's before you install them.
anyhow i tried to screw in a spark plug from another cylinder and it will not thread into the head of the engine. so i need to rethread the cylinder head. yea......
i have yet to drain the pan to see if there are any flakes in the oil
That sucks... On the other hand it could've been worse as well. The worst part of it is having to do all of the work.
Whats going on? Cylinder 2 is flooded with oil and cylinder 3 has coolant in it?
Yes they are redtop/greytop beams specific
toyodiy: 90919-02227 $135.36
Have you got any pictures of what's happened?
Sounds like the valve cover gasket is blown out.
the center little gasket keeps oil for those cylinders where it should be.
That could of caused the plug to pop out actually...
the guy that was helping thought he saw coolant but wasn't sure. I have green coolant btw and he didnt say he say green coolant. so i've got to pull the valve cover off for sure and check for any flakes in the oil...
okay so that you guys know exactly what happend. I drove 4.5 miles with this knocking noise/shot out spark plug melted to coil plug. I turned it on two seperate times for 10 seconds and then another time for 35 seconds. so when i do check oil all i should see is the metal shavings from the threads of the cylinder head.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/Maintenance/DSCN4859_zpsfb82e3c4.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/Maintenance/DSCN4860_zps5c9067f8.jpg.html
well all i have to say it took a complete 13 days from the time i sent the payment to the time I received my package. and I'm talking about the OEM Beams engine parts. which i sourced from onnaj in netherlands. He was able to get me good pricing. just like lithia but at a shipping rate 2-3 times faster. Lithia told me a 4-6 week wait time vs what i waited a short 2 weeks.
no all im waiting on is the used coil plugs and then i have to figure out where i'll work on the car at n who will help me.
Mitsuboshi, is that like Rolax?
If you were to order a cam belt from Toyota genuine parts, you would receive an identical cambelt that says Mitsuboshi along with the extra Toyota and a T-P/N number printed on it
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/1999%20Celica%20GT/Maintenance/IMAG0015_zps2c95aded.jpg.html
so i've talked to 6-7 mechanics. all they said its a 50/50 chance that I don't have to take off head to put time sert into spark plug hole. now just waiting. even the used coil plugs that i bought are starting to build the red ring about half way down the plug. so i have a total of 7 that work. i'll just have to choose which one looks best according to my sight.
Car has no issues motor is clean... It shouldn't be that hard to fix... This things still a baby
Nice ride man! Hope you'll be able to fix the problem soon and enjoy your ride!
My right hub is done so I was forced to fit right side of superstrut only because i still couldn't find a used knuckle in time (new hubs are $115!!!) I'll need to take off the superstrut asap because one bushings on control arm is busted.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Superstrut%20Susp/IMAG0030_zps914c5a86.jpg.html
have no room to work on the car on my own. so im trusting a beams swapped mr2 guy who owns a shop in ontario, ca. bought a used beams head from mr220v. So i'm transferring cylinder head parts from my current head to the used one and then i'll be done in 2 weeks! Its been 72 days since i've driven the car...
Hope you do have luck with the car now and be able to drive it soon! 72 days since the last driving, that's really long! But that'll make you enjoy the first driving a lot again
well decided not to go forth with superstrut cause i need to replace both figure 8's and one lower control arm.
finally the car is running again after 3 months.
instead of retapping and rethreading the spark plug hole. I bought a used beams redtop head from mr220v. a guy from mr2 board did the whole thing from start to finish for a good price as well. replaced power steering belt and oil pump gasket as well. Oh and i put toyota red coolant yum
the car idles great at 850 rpm. its running on synthetic blend for another 500 miles then i'll switch it out too synthetic again. although this took a junk outta my wallet at least i have a car again.
Great to hear that the car is back on the road again! Enjoy it! Forget about the money it costed, that's what i also try with the blacktop
Did you or the other person inspect the block/cylinder walls for damage when the head came off?
As the tip is missing on that sparkplug of yours.
i trust the guy. he had to take off the cylinder head twice. and readjust a valve cause it was too tight. he's been in the car biz for at least 10 years. he took his time with it as he has a 91 mr2 with beams swap.
he told me he cleaned the tops of each cylinder head real well. i can tell my engine is smoother. i'll be putting in sythetic mobil 5w-30 in the next 2 weeks then i'll see how it holds up to the rebuild.
Beautiful car! Love that it has a beams swap! Thats the swap im looking at, but with an auto trans. Anyways love the project!
Do You have VTEC?!! (best motoring quote)
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0772_zpsrkoutxzf.jpg.html
found an exhaust right?
Doing some maintenance like raybesto emergency brake shoes and beck/arnlly rear pad shim kit also
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0814_zps1mqnbvpr.jpg.html
What is really odd is pipe that supposedly this cat back exhaust is supposed to connect to OEM cat converter from a regular 3rd gen 3sge motor. But I highly doubt the oem cat will bolt on.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0779_zpsnit3zaft.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beam/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0777_zpsdqjzm8hy.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0776_zpsgbgxsmej.jpg.html
So I bought this 70mm inner diameter to 62mm outter diameter reducer from walker exhausts part #41999. Its near impossible to find a 70 mm exhaust flange with 105-110mm bolt to bolt center spacing. The only ones i found were 100mm bolt spacing in mild steel which would mean some dremel tool action which is what i want to avoid.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0811_zpswz1c7ndn.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0813_zpspkwqh9lw.jpg.html
The whole exhaust besides that is 60mm inner diameter
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0775_zpsl37tsiyw.jpg.html
So your new exhaust doesn't fit/ bolt up at all?
i just added a pipe...
I came here for the weight reduction. Where is it at? Lol
Nice progress.
Too much work to do that sorry.
Whats the bolt hole spacing on both flanges?
So I need help with fitment. I've never personally seen this fujitsubo exhaust installed on any ST202/ST206. I'm 99.9% sure this fits over the rear subframe cause I bolted it all together as one piece and tried to fit it under Sub frame but it didn't even reach.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0840_zpstn7unr4t.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0839_zps4eivtod1.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0838_zpsmjcvzm6f.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0837_zpsoyh4hntz.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0831_zpsfehueim8.jpg.html
it wont fit, those are catbacks, which means you will need the catalytic or in its absence the test pipe.
looks like you may get away with cutting the extra pipe welded to the magnaflow and then welding it in yours...
remember mine came with this, to adapt to the cat
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6656.jpg.html
but i decided to do this..
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6661.jpg.html
No man of course I know this. You've been following my thread so you know I'm already covering that part which is easy. Btw I'm missing one hanger that's why the muffler is a bit uneven.
When I test fitted it. I was told by Mr curren conversion that ill have to remove the right rear tire and angle it enought so it will bolt up. You guys don't think ill have to put this on a lift in order to install?
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6136.jpg.html
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/97_Limited_Edition/Beams_Engine_Swap/IMG_6137.jpg.html.
i did not with mine.. here is a pic of mine when it was out. i did not have to take a tire, of course i had to lift it with jackstands. taking the tire out would have made it easier
the shape of yours looks very similar to mine, except where the gaskets, you want me to take a picture of mine while it hangs there. mine directly dropped in...
yes i agree it does look easier but installing your i see is much easier okay well thanks for you insight. on a better note wow mr norbert you truly life saver. perfect 110mm center to center bolt spacing and can accomdate smaller or larger bolt spacing muhahha this is a turbo downpipe flange so it a bit thicker but works great!
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0842_zps0k8pk0uk.jpg.html
but in actuality i have 105mm bolt to bolt center spacing
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0845_zpsfhn7aztj.jpg.html
44cm overall length De-catalytic pipe, measured from the ends of both flanges.
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0888_zpsnaixeuee.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/IMAG0890_zpseqvpejtj.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5094_zpsctchcygs.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5093_zpsl2beh6eu.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5092_zpsbzlb0nsm.jpg.html
Btw where is Mr Hawaii hella flush john. This pic below is for you. Like the extended tip last the bumper. Yea so it turns out this exhaust is made for curren/coupe celica
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5095_zpsi9pyjzaa.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5098_zps4gyyk2ve.jpg.html
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5097_zpsiwgpghhb.jpg.html
And as you can see it touches the tow hitch so ill probably cut that off
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/DSCN5096_zpso5vb0pjg.jpg.html
anywho the exhaust is good stuff, it says I'm here, but I'm not really here. It sounds near stock at idle but at higher rpm there is no rasp which is great. It doesn't growl like the Greddy SP2. One thing I like a lot is that it routes the same as oem piping, so great ground clearance.
Just a few issues, two gaskets are leaking, even though i tightened flanges as tight as i could, must be that i didn't scrape off any excess gasket material left from the old ones or that the flanges have slightly warped (unlikely). Once i sort that out i hope the exhaust deepens a bit more. i picked up some extra power as well
Also the exhaust tip is stuck right next to the tow hitch. When I give it WOT shifting into 2nd and 3rd it bangs off the hitch and makes huge clunking noise and going over bumps it makes nasty clunking noise. the exhaust is made for Curren's and Celica Coupe.
taking a look at the rear reinforcement bar/crash bar on toyota websites :
although the part numbers are different between ST204/AT200 vs ST202. The length between the toe hitches are the same 60cm
Everything is identical on the exhaust system as far as length goes between 3SGE ACIS vs 3SGE VVT-I Redtop except the catalytic converter :
Regular 3S-GE Motor Catalytic Converter, part # 18450-74450
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/nonbeamscat_zps03ba61ff.jpg.html
3S-GE Beams Catalytic Converter, part # 18450-77480
http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BonzaiCelica/media/3S-GE%20Beams/Exhaust%20Set-up/beamscatconverter_zpsa5990f74.jpg.html
Would it be possible to flip the muffler? Visually it seems the tip would be better on the right side anyway. Must be loads of fun, that car.
ha no way the hangers wouldn't fit if it was like so. the the muffler section that connects to the pipe after that wouldn't connect
mine was alll bolt on, i wonder y u guys had a hard time. also, so ive been looking at mk3 supra turbo cats, looks like it wil fit with little to none modification.
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