Ok ill get my thread going now. Here i am tearing apart the car getting it ready for new paint. I probably should have fitted the 1MZ first but timing just worked out this way.
Here the engine bay is getting painted. the pictures dont to it any justice.
Should get the rest of the body painted this week and then ill put it all together.
Ill take some pics of the engine when I get home. It actually snowed up here last night so I wasn't gonna go near outside
Props for actually painting the whole thing. Very impressive.
Sweet been waiting to see this
sorry i couldnt be more help on the wiring
great stuff can't wait to see this thing running, u better make it for the meet!
So Jeff.... Your gonna fab up a mount for me right?
^^^ ???
Suprakid, what mount do you need?
aaand the v6 swap craze has begun
What have I done...
here is a link to the 1MZ rebuild
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82726
@1MZ MR2 owner: lol
Checked on the car. it was in the spray booth getting finished up. more pics to come soon.
well while im waiting for the rest of the car to get painted. here is how i got the celica Tach to work with the V6 signal
in my purchase of the 1MZ i got the gauge cluster too. i have a spare celica cluster so i took a chance on doing this mod. I think i read on MR2oc.com that this is the easiest way to do it.
first take the clear plastics off both gauges. first the celica gauge then the camry gauge.
flip the gauge over and under the tech you will see some screws. remove all of them to free the tach.
this is the backside of the tachs.
carefully move the needle to the 6 oclock position and then pull off the needles.
on the camry gauge you remove the 2 screws on the front and it will free the circuit card. on the celica gauge you have to carefully pull the face plate off, then remove the 2 screws.
all you have to do now is switch them around and put back together. This should give you a calibrated tach for the signals coming off the V6 instead of an I4.
Great writeup smaay
thanks, im dying to know if this really works. UGH i want my car on the road!!!
finally an update
Don't mind if I drool...
not at all, cause im still drooling!!
Love thw mount
Thanks I can duplicate these for 200 bucks. I forget who else wanted on once i built mine. come forward so i can take care of ya
Ill let you know when i have the extra cash
mine works for now but yours looks muxh cleaner
I remember when mine was clean...
Lots of good stuff in this thread. When will my bottom end be ready, good sir?
I got a new problem, since i have a 3MZ bottom end, the power steering pump that came with my 1MZ has no where to bolt up. can anyone help here?
3mz pump maybe
yeah thats what it looks like ill have to do,
Have you tryied the a/c pump or the alternator
you might end ul having that problem with them too
no those look to be the same, the problem is the 3MZ belt tensioner is slightly different so it would be in the way of the PS pump mount. i need to find the bracket that bolts to the head first. i think that will help me line things up.
Good luck
If anyone can make it work its you
Honestly tho
When im moving i dont notice much difference with or without ps
here is a pic of the bracket i need
the 8k rpm on the celica is on the 1 oclock position, and on the other is on the 5 oclock position.
theoritically if you just swap the faces.
when the tach hits 6k rpm in real time, it will show 8k rpm on your swapped cluster, if you go beyond that then it will show the needle floating in neverland.
unless there is calibration involved, is there any?
If you dont swap to the v6 tach The tach wont work at all the 4cyl tach cant read the v6 signal
You can use a Dakota Digital or MSD tach adapter to make that work without swapping tachs.
Kurt is right, you cant just change the faces, you need to change the electronics. I also got the gauge cluster in my purchase with the engine. that is much cheaper than having to buy and wire in an MSD box
so you swapped faces and the elecrtronics? im not clear on what you did really and how itll give a correct rpm reading..
if you use the stock gauge and electronics itll read 50% higher... i know from experience... redline on my v6 is past where the gauge stops moving.
i believe there is a resistor you can change to get it at the right calibration.
no i just changed the electronic board. they have integrated circuits on them that are designed to receive a 4 cylinder pulse or a V6 pulse. the Camry face wouldn't fit in the celica cluster.
did that board include the motor that moves the needle? if so then its still calibrated for the camry gauge face and would still be off, correct?... unless im missing something entirely
It works stephen
Mr2 guys doit all the time lol
IIRC the mr2 has the same sweep as the camry rpm gauge
so 1 o'clock is ~5,000 rpm on both the mr2 and camry...
but the 1 o'clock position is ~7,000 rpm on the celica face
^MR2 gauge
small update, i got ST205 cables and installed them, i also installed a TWM short shifter. im still waiting for a PS bracket from an MR2 guy.
thats an NA MR2 gauge, and just because the sweep is the same, its all about the signal that the gauge is receiving. a V6 is going to put out a different pulse over an I4
What's the current status of this project? I'm dying to see a startup video and some dyno runs
i had another slight hang up, i discovered that the AT and MT 1MZ have different rear headers, the AT that came with my engine has the header pointing right into where the shifter cables go for the E153. i ordered a MT header and i should get it monday. once i get the header i can complete the EGR tube. once thats done then it goes back in the car.
nice. now get it ready for the august meet.
august meet?
well i finished putting the body harness back on, the fenders are back on, the headlights are in. my header was back ordered so i wont get that till monday.
Any update?
updates: engine is all in, just need to fab up the exhaust. once i get that all done and the AC lines ill be ready to run
So you're keeping the a/c? Good deal. Cruise control as well?
yes thats the plan, keep the AC and the cruise. its in the 100s here during the summer and i must have cruise
awesome work dude! those gauges are sick
I was hoping you would, just to show what goes into making the 1MZ swap a complete daily driver.
A/C is a must, cruise is nice to have. I hardly ever use cruise though. Still, can't wait to see it all done!
Lol Justin is just mad because he never does anything noteable to his car besides dent it
ok small update, i ended up getting both front and rear headers from a 5 speed solara. because im trying to smog this car, i need to comply with how the solara is. luckily it only has 1 CAT after the Y pipe so im getting all those parts now. the AC lines have been fabbed up. The Solara and the Celica use the same AC compressor but you have to either change the top section where the lines attach to it, or change the pulley. I elected to swap the top sections. i just welded -8 AN fittings on the spots where the hoses attach and made my own lines.
So, getting close to being road ready?
Update time:
Finished the exhaust. here is my Y pipe
ill take more pics of the engine bay when its more daylight, it was getting dark quickly
That's basically how mine looks too just mine meets alittle farther back
nice work. did you do the welds yourself??
i wish i could claim those welds, my fabricator that builds everything for me did them. im the designer, hes my bitch ha ha
well i turned the key this morning, when i turn to the ON position, the starter activates. looking into it now
I got so excited for a minute when I read "I turned the key." I was expecting to hear it started on the first try. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out in no time.
is that aluminized steel, your exhaust work?? is there a difference in weight between aluminzed steel(which is what most exhaust shops use right?) and sus304 stainless....
Bonzai, yes its aluminized and i have no idea if its lighter
the 1mz looks awesome in the bay Smaay great job man, hope you get the starter issue resolved.
Sucks about the starter issue. Hopefully its an easy fix.
One day my swap will look as nice as yours
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jB4UCXIBGk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
That thing sounds beastly!
Welcome to v6 club
2 rules of v6 club
Rule 1 don't talk about v6 club
Rule 2 if its your first night its gotta run lol
Contests man! Hopefully ill be joining you in the fun again soon
Gotta figure why the key in the on position is triggering the starter.
i cant figure out why my starter is engaging in the ON position
Crossed wire? It's gotta be something simple
i dont know what it is.
Kurt, didnt you say your speedometer also sits in the middle or did? mine is going that now too
No my thromostat gauge doesn't work right
Speedily works fine.
When mine acted kinda odd it was grounding related.
Did you put the 2 harness grounds back on the intake manifold then ground the block to the car?
What starter are you using?
yes the 2 grounds are hooked up on the back of the engine, well one on teh back and one on the side of the IM. im using the 5S-FE starter, its the same as the 3S and 1MZ.
Have you ground it out to the chassis yet
multi-meter and start checking plugs.... GO
ok just spent an hour on the phone with Doug, he is the man by the way.
we disconnected the wire on the 22 pin connector at pin 8 which was black with a grey band every inch and everything worked perfectly.
He thinks pin 8 is MRL which was sending the 12V to the starter trigger. we moved that wire to pin 7 which i think was STA, i cant remember.
now gotta figure out why when i turn on the key, my speedometer jumps to about 36MPH
1problem solve....few dozen to go
Kurt, what did you use for water hoses to the heater core?
I can't remember the size
It was same size as stock celica an I got 3 foot an cut it to lingth my self
I'll dig through my thread for the top rad hose for you too
It's got a part number the lower hose I used the stock v6 hose cut in half an the 2 old ends put together an a long hose with a 90 degree angle at one end
Part number for top rad hose
yeah i looked through your thread and saw this same picture, thanks. i have the radiator hoses taken care of, i need to do something for heater hoses
All the rest of my lines are coolent hose from advance auto parts cut to length
It's the same size around as the stock 5s heater hose
ok latest update. unplugged the speed sensor, same issue. needle jumps to ~36MPH and the Tach jumps to about 900 RPM (with the engine off) with the engine on the tach registers a signal but it does not match what my scan tool says.
the water temp gauge seems to read but its a little low. my tool says 180* F and the needle is about 1/4 way up.
it idles really low but i have a good theory why. im not getting and O2 STFT or LTFT information. just reading 0. i think its looking for O2 sensors.
im getting an airbag light, dont think that has any relation.
oops forgot to tell you the gauge that i swapped the V6 tach into was a good working gauge before.
i also have my original gauge cluster. i put that one back in and the MPH stays at 0 and so does the Tach with the engine running. give it some gas and there is no RPM signal at all
I've actually seen something like that. On my old blue project Celica, after I pulled the engine, specifically. Missing grounds caused some funky issues. When I turned the headlights on, suddenly my speedo showed I was going like 35 or 40 mph. When I turned the brights on, I was allegedly going 60. It was simply caused by engine grounds not being in place. When I dropped a 5S back in place and halfway bolted it back up, the weird issues went away.
I'm not doubting your grounds, just merely commenting. I'm willing to bet that the speedo is something simple. Still, I'd hate tracking it down. I wish you the best of luck!
Yea your having some kind of grounding issue for sure
I've got 4 ground wires made out of ground cable for a 1600 watt amp
Try cleaning your grounds spots down to bare metal an add a couple more
while i wont disagree i might be having a ground issue, when i swap clusters, the other speed gauge reads 0. i understand why the other tach reads 0 its struggling with the V6 tach signal
i drove the car!!!!!!
i still have the GT throttle cable so i could only give it about 1/3 throttle. OMG this thing hauls ASS!!!!
bad news. the drivers axle pops out. it has the retaining ring on it but its still popping out.
There should be two small grounds off the harness that runs under the intake manifold. This grounds the ECU. You should have a chassis ground off of the ACIS side of the intake manifold as well.
Glad to hear you got to drive it. Isn't it wonderful?
Congrats!!!
Wait till you feel full throttle
here are some update pics
Looking good!
Wish mine was that pretty
thing looks serious, congrats man!
7A is what is heresy in a Celica. Good day, sir.
Disagreed. 'Tis a fine engine, it has its charm. Certainly reliable and stout engine, just quite limited. It could be more miserly with fuel, but for people that spend most of their time at 45 in the city, 105bhp is more than enough.
Corners are my fun.
Charm? It has as much charm as a drunkard. For the amount of power it makes you'd think it'd get better fuel economy. It looks twice as fast as what it really is, it's terrible. It's sad when a mini-van of all things is faster than a "sports car".
well i fixed the axle issue. i had to grind off about 1/16 " off the tip of the drivers side axle to get it to seat all the way into the trans. im not certain but i think i have an aftermarket LSD in there or maybe a factory. but its not the same as the MR2 because i dont have the bar through the middle. i can see some sore of place with a hole through it inside. and both wheels turn in the same direction off the ground. i am using MR2 turbo LSD axle stubs. im also using ST185 outters and no spacer, so far no issues.
i want one of these so badly! just curious what you would estimate the cost on this swap to be?
Yay! Now go drive it and make some videos!
The only test is to lay down some elevenses.
mmm v6s one of these days i'll get a ST205 and awd v6 it like my mr2
^^^^ thats so sexy! thats what im going to do once i get the swap certified. I have a complete 3MZ from a Sienna. i just need to get the VVT 1MZ intake manifold, throttle body, and the computer. how much power are you making by the way?
after driving my 3MZ/1MZ hybrid i can tell you that this is so much faster than my dads 2002 5 speed solara. it is also much torquier and faster than my 5S-FE with the turbo system on it. Once i get all the bugs worked out ill be fabricating the supercharger.
Oh by the way my cruise control is also working. im so happy about that.
Sick
got the ST throttle cable in on saturday. OMG full throttle lights the tires up in 2nd gear and im on 17" KDWs! this engine is awesome! i need to put a resonator in the pipe it sounds like a freaking honda straight pipe though. my O2 sensors should come in today. once i get those installed i should get STFT and LTFT data.
These swaps are starting to look more and more appealing. Plus, there really isn't much of a weight penalty incurred with the 1MZ, right?
No the balance of the celica doesn't really change with the 1mz
It just makes the celica as fast ad it looks lol
What about mounting height, and center of gravity change? Also must add in the variable of the 3S' TMIC or FMIC, since that's the closest swap to compare to (in terms of cost/power).
i havent noticed any issues with a CG or weight transfer. the 1MZ weighs just about the same as a 3S-GTE and the E153 was designed to be in there. remember its the same trans as the ST205 tranny without the transfer case.
If I didn't have a 3s sitting about 15 feet away, I'd be doing one of these.
It truly is an appealing swap I wish was done back when I was making large paypal transfers!
Swap looks nice!
you could always sell the 3S and make some of your money back. the way i see it, you could buy a complete 1MZ with ECU and harness for about 7-800. 400 for the wiring work, 200 at most for an intake, and maybe 300 at most for some fab work for the engine mount and an axle carrier if you use the S54 trans and axles. thats a total of 1700
oops i forgot to add exhaust work. probably another 500 to build a Y pipe and down pipe. depends on where you go.
If you find a good parts car you could do it cheaper than that
I figured this time my swap with my new 1mz would have cost 12-1400
Compared to the almost 2200 right now (not including the new motor)
^^^ yep, i just searched car-part.com until i found a good engine close to me. i actually went to a junkyard in Bakersfield (about 80 miles away) just for the axle carrier bracket and I ended up buyine the entire 3MZ engine from a Sienna. it had really low miles, the harness, and ECU for 700 bucks! cant beat that!
I paid 350 for the 98 avalon with 152,000 miles an just had all major maintaince done before her daughter hit a deer. Oh an I drove it home lol
I've seen your 1MZ teardown thread, but is there one i missed about how you mated the 1mz heads to the 3mz block? or is it quite literally just swap them over?
ok took some pics
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rk0XhQXD1o4&feature=youtu.be
Hey how did you get my car an you painted the wrong color
Looks an sounds amazing great work smaay
I hope my swap is as amazing as yours one day
Quick question Smaay: I have access to a 94 1mz and an 05 1mz w/ vvt. Im trying to keep the cost as minimal as possible. I can get the 94 harness and ecu with the motor but not for the 05 1mz. I would have to source those separately. Which would you recommend? And would the obd1-2 thing be that big of a deal. (I have a 94 gt) Keep in mind I would be sending the wiring out to be sorted by someone else. Thanks in advance
If your wanting to keep the cost down the 94 that already has everything will be cheaper in the long run
Obd1-2 isn't a bigdeal if you send the harness out
My celica is a 94 also but my swap is from a 98
But call your local scrap yards if you can get the harness an ecu an keep the price of eather engine close to the same the 05 will have more power
what do you figure the 1mz will do on the track?
looks so great! Such an odd site seeing that in there haha.
i dont really like how it sounds though
no i dont like the sound either, it sounds like a freaking honda. i need to put a resonator in it
good. im glad you agree. i was afraid you wouldnt love me anymore for being honest
did i mention how FREAKING AWESOME it is to drive this car.
thats exactly what i did, swap the boards
Good project bro
I need more photo
well i noticed some tapping coming from the engine so in a total of 24 hours, i pulled my engine, swapped the intake manifold over to a complete 3MZ that i have and got it back in the car up and running.
the VVT cams dont like not working like they should be. im using non VVT electronics so the cams are in a locked position.
Here are the results from the dyno today
Mmmmmmmm! What a lovely picture!!
You almost make me want a v6 swap instead of turboing just so I can have a newer engine that is n/a and putts up those kind of numbers daily.
awesome work brother
yeah and it will get better gas mileage too
Well you've had both the 5sfte and v6 now, what do you like better?
Will you be producing a v6 mount kit ?
Ever plan on turboing the 6? And if so what can it handle?
You'll only need 1 mount if you stick with the s54.
Well 1 motor mount an a axles mount for s54
E153 you'll need everything you'd need with a 3s but you'll need the 1 motor mount smaay mskes.
It's an amazing feeling driving a v6
nice numbers man, i almost wish i did this swap over the 3s
I drove Eryns car with a 3rd gen 3S in it and it hauls ass! dont get me wrong. but this swap will cost much less than a 3S-GTE. 3MZ engines are all over car-part.com for about 1000 bucks with the wiring and ECU.
you will have to spend a little more if you go the route I did. im using a non VVT 1MZ ECU. so i have no VVT control. still making good power i think. i will make more once i figure out a way to control VVT.
i would also be making more power if i was using the S54. the E153 is such a beefy transmission it absorbs more power.
if you go with an E153, then just use ST205 engine mounts and my mount on the passenger side. use the axle carrier from the 05 Sienna. it fits perfectly
i took the V6 that was tapping apart over the weekend, it was the rod bearings. 1 and 6 were toast! luckily the crankshaft looks ok. im not sure if it was lack of oil or poor clearances? ill post pics soon.
Damn that sucks...
Do you plan on making headers for the V6 or are you going to keep the stock manifolds? I bet a pair of headers and a nice dual exhaust would give you nice power.
i have no plans on developing headers. the stock MT headers do a fine job. if anything ill just port match them like we do the 7th gen celicas.
have you thought about the 2GR-FSE swaps...I want to venture in that area but the wiring is what worries me and well everything else to the swap. I want to bar the darn engine so it is legit, but finding the engine is the hard thing. I have talk to you about the 3s, but maybe this is the better solution when legalizing this kind of swap into our old car...94+ engine or newer for smog legal. btw nice work.
2GR will never be legal in CA. the engine costs twice as much, and yes the wiring will be insane. im really happy with my 3MZ and once i put the SC on it, ill be done.
how much have you spent so far including all the itty bittys?
well since i went through a 1MZ/3MZ hybrid and i rebuilt the engine, and then it started knocking and I installed the 3MZ spare i had. ill break it down if i just went with the 3MZ.
engine 700
ECU 120
harness work 400
E153 350
axles 300
fluids 50
that totals to 1920. you could save 400 of that if you use the stock GT tranny and axles. I also bought a new fidanza flywheel and SB clutch but that was my choice.
add another 1500 or so for the 1MZ and 3MZ and parts for the rebuild. but for a person wanting to do a V6 swap, unless you want to have the same setup I have, just get a 1MZ from a 5 speed solara and call it a day.
also keep in mind that i have my own fab guy to build my engine mount and Y pipe. add 400 if you want duplicates of those.
This swap can be done right for 2000-2500 easy of ypu just want to do the stock swap an if ypu gpt yhe topls the mounts ate easy to make
i hope you keep making parts for the future and especially idea about the best SC on the 3mz...
Since you have all these toyota motors around, is there anyway you could compare an S series head with an MZ series head, or the deck on the block?
Id be interested to see how well they match up, a 1MZ-GTE would be pretty badass. Maybe its feasible to shave a cylinder off the head if the bore spacing and waterjackets match up. Ive seen someone weld two v8 heads together for a straight 6 before, so anything is possible.
Any recommendations for a specific mz block for reliability/ease of swap for my daily college/pizza driver? Lexus or Toyota block make much difference?
to make the swap the easiest, i suggest getting a 1MZ out of a 5 speed car. that way you are not dealing with ECU issues chasing Auto codes
Agreed. 97+ ANYTHING Toyota/Lexus that has a V6 minus SC300.
Smaay I need a little info to see if it's worth venturing into it. It's in relation to the coilpacks on the 1MZ-FE.
How many pins do the plugs to these have? I want to know if they have inbuilt igniters or if they're just coils. Also, how long do the boots for the plugs measure in inches?
the igniter is an external box just like the 5S. the coils i believe are only 2 wire and they are wasted spark meaning 1 coil feeds 2 cylinders. This is for the non VVT 1MZ
the VVT 1MZ and 3MZ are 4 wire i believe just like a 1ZZ or 2ZZ. they have the igniter built in i think.
you can see here the 2 wire plug on the side and the spark plug wire that runs around to the back 3 plugs.
So these are just coils... hmm.
I'm going to run a wasted spark setup for now but I wanted to clean the bay up a little. I was thinking these would look cleaner. I could use these but Id rather use some with inbuilt igniters because it's better, noise-wise (less noise inside the megasquirt with the bip373s) and less heat as well.
Are the 3mz coils the same? I mean wasted spark, or individual COP?
sorry i didnt see this sooner, the 3MZ actually went to a 4 wire coil on each cylinder so now there are 6 of them.
sorry i dont
I'd love to hear this thing. Has there already been a video posted of the exhaust? I might've missed it.
i live in Lancaster, its always windy here. ill try to take a better video.
Just giving an update, the car is running as strong as ever. Im chasing an AC issue. i think i have a leak somewhere.
UV dye and a black light.
>.>
Any updates on this Jeff?
nothing new except car drives awesome and hauls ass. havent looked into the AC issues yet.
Read the whole thread and it's so yummy! Already starting to save up so hopefully in a couple years I'll have time and money to do this build.
Lol. Never!
this car sounds great!! got to hear it when picking up a part. made me lean further to the v6 side of swaps.
too bad i couldnt give you a ride. maybe some other time
Bump. Smaay did you ever get this bard?
not yet, its going to be a pain in the ass with my car being a 97, I have to install the newer style charcoal cannister with all the switching valves on it. However, if i go backwards and install a 97 Camry ECU, ill be golden.
On the flip side, Amy's car is a 99 and it has the newer style EVAP crap on it so the 2000 ECU will work. SOOOOOOO, after i get all the parts, and she has enough fun with the turbo engine, we will swap in a V6 and ill use this stuff on her car.
Has anyone bard the 1mzfe yet? That you know of?
not in a 6th gen, i know a few MR2 guys have
Since you used an engine that came out of an AT car was there any AT to MT troubles? I found a solar up north for 1g. 65000 miles on it only. Front end was hit and so was the rear. Seems like there's no MT solaras. Just a few which is rare.
http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=144375
I found a thread about a 1mzfe bard in a mr2. Seemed like he had some trouble with the fuel areas. like the tank and lines. Did you have problems with that too or was it mostly PNP but just a custom passenger mount and exhaust y pipe? And another question. Which would be easier to swap into our celica? a pre 2000 or 2000+ 1mzfe?
havent you read anything i been posting? I said i was using a MT 2000 Camry ECU. so no AT codes.
i dont have the EVAP system that the 2000 Camry has and havent installed the charcoal cannister, thats why im going to use the 97 Camry ECU. the 99 celica does have the newer style EVAP system so its easier to use the 2000 ECU.
The engine has absolutely nothing to do whether it came from a MT or AT. that is all ECU based. Also, if you have been doing your research and I know i have said this several times. a 1999-2002 Solara and Camry ECU is capable of being both AT and MT, all you have to do is ground 1 pin and it disables all the AT codes. But those ECUs WILL need AFR sensors. If you find an actual MT ECU then you use O2 sensors
Since you know we are both from Cali. If I was to get that at ecu and ground the pin. Would it fail the smog? I doubt it would since it won't be emitting them at codes anymore right?
Afr a s o2? I always thought every car had o2 sensors? What's the difference with these two? Are both still located in the exhaust?
Awesome project! Well done Jeff!
Ive been swayed to the v6 swap after a ride in kurt's this fall. Ive located a '00 solara 1mzfe m/t car I'm hoping to get both the engine/wiring/ecu and trans(e153). My question is how do I know if its an immobilzer ecu or not? I have not gotten part numbers from the yard yet.
i think i posted a list of ECUs that are immobilized
I'll keep looking on the site. I saw nothing in your project. Over all how does the car feel compared to a 3s car? Or do you only have the Alltrac with the 3s? Which is kind of an unfair comparison.
I dont believe pressure's 3s is a stock swap....of course its faster it has the ability to make more power with the turn of the knob(boost controller)
;-)
i drove Eryns car with a 3S-GTE swap at about 18 psi. It hauls ass!!!! i have no doubt it was making close to 350. the lag was minimal but it felt it. the difference between mine and hers is my power is instantly there. I would probably pull on her at highway speeds unless she downshifts.
the big difference, my parts are cheaper and easier to get. and my swap probably cost over half as much as hers.
ever sort out the speedo and tach issues?
Im not sure what he did, i cant follow what he said. I dont think there is a difference in sienna pumps. i think what he was describing is converting the fuel system to returnless. Maybe the Sienna assembly is P&P on the celica. I dont know. I made my own fuel system
Bump. How's the 1MZFE doing? Giving you any trouble? Have you done any other mods? Really interesting thread.
Schweeeeeeet!
Your willing to build harnesses now
Hmmm this has me thinking
sorry just saw this. Im using the engine mount on the front of the engine, i just cut off the part that bolts to the camry frame. I also had to get a 3MZ bracket for the PS pump. toyota changed the location of the timing belt tensioner from 1MZ to 3MZ so you need to get either a 3MZ PS pump, or just the bracket if using a 1MZ pump
VVT is nothing like VTEC.
VVT means the valve timing is variable. it changes with the conditions of the engine.
VTEC is similar to LIFT in the 7th gen celica GT-S. its a different cam profile that is engaged at a certain RPM.
^i always thought the vvtli was similar to the ivtec?
no IVTECH is like VVTi.
Regardless if you had a 3MZ with a vvti in it then you could control the cam lift manually with a switch connected to the solenoid. No?
No lift in power band except in 7gc
Dang, celicatech is down, all my pics are gone
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