I don't own a 6GC anymore, but I am attached to this place, so you guys are stuck with me.
The V6 is a swap that MR2 gurus are doing these days. I suppose when you get a bunch of guys in their 30's and 40's with handfuls of disposable income, this is the result. I know there have been a few V6 swaps into the 6GC, and since the MR2 shares a bit with the Celica, I am making this thread in the hopes that someone on here will find it and get some of the information that they need.
Why I chose the 1mz over a 3sgte
Simple, really. I see the MR2 as a cheap exotic, why not make it sound like one? Power is the same if not a bit higher than the 3s, but it has torque the moment you put your foot down. Good fuel economy, reliable, yada yada yada. It actually gives you more room in the engine bay than the 3S, too.
Why the 1MZ over other V6 options?
Weight, cost, and availability. The 1MZ has an aluminum block. It actually weighs less than the 3sgte. The 3VZ has a cast iron block, and people opt for those if going with a turbo, but I'm not. I have my WRX for turbo shenanigans - this car is meant for reliable enjoyment. The 2GRFE would be incredible - 275whp stock... Only problem is finding one, and cheap. Most places that have them are selling them at more than what my swap will cost me... plus I would need to upgrade to the E153 transmission, turbo axles, hubs, brakes, etc. Just pile on the parts. Seems like a more suiting swap for someone who is starting out with a turbo MR2.
I picked my 1MZ up from another NASIOC and MR2OC board member who decided to go for a Honda V6 swap instead. He pulled this motor out of a 94 Lexus ES300 with 90k miles on it. It ran great, just got t-boned. No sludge, either. Owned by an old couple, this car was just in to the dealership for it's 90K service. If it weren't for the fact that timing belts are cheap, I might just leave this one on there. The guy I bought it from had already gone through the trouble of sourcing a new passenger side motor mount from 4v6 on the MR2 boards to make the swap drop straight in. The ES300 never came in manual transmission, and because of the lack of an automatic transmission in my car, this will throw a CEL. I am still trying to think of ways around this, but it'll probably end up with some sort of EMS.
So I started my list of what I still need to source... after compiling the list I thought to myself, I probably should have thought about this more.
- Custom headers Brad Bedell makes a set for $300, but requires a bit of modification to the runners to not hit the oil filter.
- Flywheel Need to get a V6 flywheel for a Solara. Decided on a Fidanza unit. Why not, right? $310
- Clutch The V6 flywheel is the same diameter as a mr2 turbo flywheel, but my clutch isn't. To maximize the surface area and avoid slipping I need to get a turbo clutch kit with a custom 20 spline disk to mount my S54 to the 1MZ. South Bend Clutch can do a kevlar clutch kit with 20 spline disk for $300.
- Tachometer The v6 sends a different signal than the 5s, so you need to source a v6 tach board from a camry for this. Drops right in to the MR2 cluster, but I am having my stock tach modified and recalibrated. $50
- Wiring I know this is going to be a nightmare to wire, so that is a headache I'm passing to someone else. Dr_tweak wants $630 to do it.... WTF happened to the $300-$400 conversions? Luckily there is a mr2 board member who does the work for $430.
- Exhaust work I have headers outlined above, and already have a Greddy SP muffler, so my exhaust shop needs to build a y-pipe to connect the two. Speculated cost with my discount (I refer A LOT of business to them) is around $200.
- Misc. crap Timing belt, gaskets, fluids, etc. I am also bundling kirkosaurus poly mount inserts under this category. $300
I've got about $1700 left to spend on this trip. Already spent $750 on the engine and everything I'll need from the donor car. I've set a deadline of February 28th to have it completely finished. If it wasn't for this Christmas BS (Now I know why adults hate this time of year) I would be well on my way. No problem.
I'm writing all of this out from my cell phone, so its all a bit jumbled and unformatted, but I've been meaning to post this stuff for a while. When I get to my computer I'll organize it and get some real info going. Until then, gaze upon awesomeness.
Okay, I'm home from work... and now I can reformat.....
Alright, now that is over with... I pulled the harness off of the motor last night.... And it's substantially larger than my 5S harness. This thing almost spans the length of my car! I'm not going to work on it tonight, but tomorrow I am going to go through and label the harness, and try and source some injector clips - the plastic was pretty brittle on mine and I snapped all but one of them.
The guy I bought it from partially unwrapped the harness, so it looks nastier than it really is, but this harness has to weigh at least 30lbs. I'd like to see how much it'll weigh after I get it back.
This is AWESOME! I can't wait to see this beast Matt.
Reformatted and added/elaborated on a few things.
Nice! Should be pretty beastly when its done!
Badass!
sweet stuff man cant wait to see more!
Good stuff! I can't wait to hear what it sounds like. What horsepower does your V-6 put out? I don't recall reading that.
This version of the 1MZ is rated at 190 hp and 193 tq, however the exhaust is the most restrictive part on this motor, so by completely redoing the entire exhaust system I'm hoping to put down the crank rating to the wheels. Later on, I can get a TRD supercharger and bump it up to 242 hp and 242 torque. All on the stock ECU.
On a side note, my friend who is sponsored by TMS just ordered new t-top seals. Instead of $340 to fix my leaks, I only had to pay $170. Got to love discounts.
Best of luck, Spongebob.
Went through and labeled the wiring harness last night. Buying another 91 n/a harness on Monday so I can send them off to be spliced together in advance. No real pictures to show of this process, but here's one anyway.
I've wanted to do a v-6 MR2 for a looong time. Thought about doing it with the Celica, but front-wheel-drive pisses me off too much. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
BTW every MR2 should look as good as yours, that thing is gorgeous.
off topic should be separated into categories, this is a nice thread to be sorted out from all the crap..
Thanks guys. I'm going to try to make it as packed full of information as I can. Again, once christmas is over this will pick up a lot. I can't wait to get this motor in and get it going. I think the next couple things I have to buy are the flywheel and clutch, but I might throw the harness in there as well, depending on funds.
^^ Really looking forward to this man. Just curious, what were the prices you noticed for the 2GR? I know they can go for a lot and best bet is getting a used one as the price from Toyota is insane for new.
From what I saw, prices were around $2,000 for the motor, ECU, wiring, etc. You would then need to spend an additional $900 for Gouky's DBW pedal adaptor, motor mount, headers, etc.
No it's not bad, it's just the wiring and electronics I don't want to deal with. Most people say it takes about 7500 for the 2gr swap... And I can't afford that right now.
Looked around for oil filter relocation kits yesterday. Think I'm going to go with the Greddy kit, as it uses Toyota filters (85 - 87 corolla). I'm thinking I'll run the relocated plate to the firewall so it's easily accessible.
Attempted to mount the alternator last night to check belt length, because I don't have power steering, and will be deleting a/c. I'm going to need to do a bit of research on how it mounts, because I've got it installed, but I have two extra brackets that I don't have any idea on where they go...
No pictures, as it was late and I was going to bed.
I have time and money right now, and I'm going to get it done. I spent maybe a few months researching, not actually SERIOUS about doing it, and when the 1MZ went up for sale I just jumped on it. I'm kind of getting the expected stuff out of the way now, and whatever little crap I run into I will take care of it as I go. I've got access to a 2-post lift and air, along with a friend who is a Toyota technician. I'm going to be running N/A because I don't have a need for a turbo on this. I have my WRX for turbo fun. Redline, as I understand it, is the same as the N/A MR2... which I don't recall off the top of my head. That is why when the Turbo guys swap in a V6 they generally get a N/A tach, because it reads redline correctly.
Got paid today, so the headers will be ordered, and probably the flywheel. Once the headers get here I'll check oil filter clearance and go from there - wether I need a oil filter relocation or not.
I also remembered another thing I need to do - the coolant lines are criss-crossed from the engine to the MR2, which means the upper radiator hose on the 1MZ needs to cross to the driver's side of the car, which means I need a long flexible coolant line. Going to start looking for one of those... I'm not sure what line I need for the other coolant line - I suppose once I get the car in I'll take measurements and head to the store to see what I can find.
Purchased the spare N/A harness and a new fuel gauge today (I suspect my fuel gauge is broken), once the harness gets in I'll be boxing it up and sending it away with the 1MZ harness to be spliced by a MR2 board member (MR220V) and returned as a complete plug and play harness.
I can't wait to start following this build!
5SFE harness showed up this morning... I went to find a box to package the two together, but I'm having a hard time getting the V6 harness into the box I have. I'm going to have to find another one at work.
My t-top seals came in today as well.... well, half of them. The body seals came in, but the two small seals that go on the t-tops didn't come. So I spent a couple hours tearing the seals out.
Look at the difference in paint color...
Buying the clutch and flywheel tomorrow.
Updating without any pictures
I ordered the clutch from South Bend Clutch, Flywheel from THMotorsports, and headers from Brad Bedell on MR2OC.
Headers will be here tomorrow (plenty of pictures will follow!)
Clutch is going to be a few days until it ships (because of the custom spline I need)
Flywheel was ordered on the 26th, and has been "processing" since then... I think ordering from THMotorsports might have been a bad idea...
Anyone have any experience with THMotorsports?
I also got a new fuel gauge for my cluster - I think mine is broken, so I'm going to swap it out to test.
From here, it appears as though all I need to get now is the wiring harness conversion, flywheel bolts, and gaskets.
Build is planned to be done by the end of February...
Pictures! nom nom nom
Oil filter relocation kit will definitely be required. The filter is touching the piping.
Rear bank:
Sitting in my living room watching horrible movies on TV... leaves me with a lot of time.
I can get a Greddy filter relocation kit for ~$150, but I'm not sure I want to do that. I don't want to over complicate this stuff.
So I began with looking up a chart on oil filter dimensions, which led me to a site for Mann-Hummel. I went out to grab the dimensions of my oil filter and came up with:
3" diameter
3.25" high
3/4 16 UNF thread
With that, I looked into Mann-Filters and found one with the same diameter and mating surface sizes, but only 2.3" tall! Best part, its only $9 for a filter. Going to order one up and see if it works.
Nice project bro! Should be beastly when mated to a s54 like yours!
One question tho? What 3S-GTE does this make more power than? A USDM ST-165 maybe. Other than that - great projects and good luck! May the Gremlins disregard your swap sir
stock for stock this is faster than a mr2 turbo. Probably even faster than a st-185, so it's faster than a 2nd gen-equipped car. Not necessarily based on hp numbers alone, but because of the linear torque curve, which is something the 3sgte doesn't have.
Coupled with the shorter ratio s54, this should fly. I'm pretty pumped to get it done.
nice...
esto es SEXO!
I would HIGHLY suggest getting those headers coated with a ceramic insulation to keep engine bay heat down, would not wrap those as there are too many welds in the middle of sections of piping. wrapping near welds isn't good.
As for the red paint issue, I'd suggest hitting the paint with some medium rubbing compound and then some fine rubbing compound on a good buffer. that should bring the red back to its natural color without taking too much paint off. finish the compounds with some swirl remover like a good glaze or scratch-x/swirl-x, then several coats of good wax or zaino.
No way to do anything with the paint - the car was painted a year or so before I bought the car, so that is just a picture to show the paint color difference.
The headers will probably be left as-is. The underbody plastics for the engine bay make a scoop that pushes air up through the bay and out the engine lid. The bay doesn't get real hot.
Hey, why not another picture from this morning. I'm on my way to the parts store to try and find another filter that fits, just shorter.
Success. The "generic" Toyota filter "1394" (goes on most every Toyota 4-cyl) fits, and gives about a 1/4 to 1/2" of clearance.
Just a note of observation... I went to Napa and was looking thru their cross reference book and began comparing the Napa brand filter to the amsoil... and found that they're the exact same, just a different sticker on them, and set back an additional $10 for the amsoil one.
Since I was just looking to experiment, I bought the cheap $4.99 filter. Will be returning it and getting a better filter.
nah, get them coated. trust me. at idle that V6 is going to put ALOT more heat through that thin stainless tubing with no heat shrouds than your 4 banger ever did...and it had heat shielding out the wazoo. The forward bulkhead has alot of shielding, but the butt end of the gas tank and fuel lines are right there also, get them coated.
It's MUCH easier now with the engine out than to decide to do it once the whole thing is installed.
.... Alright, I'll trust you on this. Haha. There is a place down the road that'll ceramic coat them for $165 in a standard ceramic color (most likely just a natural color, nothing like black or blue), or $195 for ceramichrome finish. I'm getting a bonus this week so that'll be covered... Money easily earned is money easily spent!
Called THMotorsports this morning to figure out what their major malfunction is. I've been waiting for over a week for them to ship my flywheel. They said it shipped on the 30th, and it'll be here on the 10th.... I asked if they were having someone walk it from NJ to WA, because 12 day shipping wasn't going to cut it.
A word to the wise: NEVER do business with THMotorsports.
This build is really awe-inspiring. Definitely keeping an eye on it.
PS: That engine is luscious.
At this rate I'll have everything else and be waiting on the flywheel!
No, I gave myself a deadline for groups of parts, and the clutch and flywheel have until the 15th until I'm behind schedule... so I'm still making decent time.
I fixed a coworker's computer on the side the other day, and got $75 for that (nominal, I know), but today I got a check in the mail from Uncle Sam. Apparently I didn't add something into my tax return and they owed me an additional $90. So there's $165 thats going straight into ceramic coating (thanks Bitter) the headers, however I need to take the headers down to my exhaust shop and have o2 bungs welded into the collectors. They came without o2 sensor ports, and I need one for each bank, and a third to go into the secondary piping. Probably won't cost much, but I'll get that done before I get them coated. Unless I can put those o2 sensors into the piping right after the headers...
Getting paid on Wednesday - and I believe a quarterly profit-sharing bonus is going to be attached. My purchases for that check are going to be:
Ceramic coating the headers - $165
Gasket set - $? Not sure what the cost is going to be.
Timing belt (I believe the water pump, pulleys, and tensioner are new, so I'm going to inspect them and replace as needed) $? Not much.
Flywheel bolts $15
Probably some other misc. crap. Little nickel and dime stuff. It's getting down to the point where there isn't much left to do but drop it in. I'll send off the harness after my paycheck on the 20th, and once I have the harness back I hope to have gaskets replaced and the motor buttoned up. I'll plug the harness in on the motor, and then it'll be swap time.
oK Call me an idiot, why is that header pointing to the front?
Idiot
that's the rear bank - it's pointing straight back.
Well my flywheel has been sitting in a Fedex building in Keasbey, NJ since the 30th. I called Fedex today to see wtf is going on. They put in an inquiry and someone from the Keasbey building will be calling me tomorrow - otherwise I'll call them directly. This is ridiculous. I'll be telling them to put it on a flight to Seattle.
The funny/irritating part is that my order with THMotorsports says that it's shipping UPS... Which I am going to be calling them back about this as well. I ordered a flywheel and selected UPS as my shipping provider, and they ship it out using Fedex.
wow looking good dude, good work
FedEx says it'll be here tomorrow, but it's still in Keasbey, NJ. We'll see if they can work some sort of magic.
looks good so far man! keep it up!
Thanks Manny.
Performance Coatings isn't open on the weekends... So I'm dropping my headers off on monday to have o2 bungs welded in and ceramic coated. My only dilemma is what color to have them coated... Satin silver, or satin titanium?
I can't find any good examples on their site of either color.
And my Toyota technician friend is going to run the VIN from the motor thru their system to see what maintenance has been performed at it's last dealer visit.
Well I'm eating my words today. I dropped my headers off to be ceramic coated and when I got back I had a fedex box. I also went and bought a new impact gun to take a crack at the crank pulley... Which is pretty well stuck.
Pictures to follow!
sometimes when u ship via ups it might end up in fedex's hands and they finish shipping it and vice versa
Oh, what kind of gun did you get?
I actually bought two. I initially bought a cheap craftsman gun for $100, but was underwhelmed by it's performance with my small air compressor, so I bought a dewalt power impact gun as a backup for $170, because the air one is pretty weak by comparison. After this project is over I'll return one. Part of me thinks a power impact gun is a sin, but it works much better for my limited setup. Perhaps if I had the money to upgrade my compressor the air would be favorable, but at the moment neither make me happy, as the crank pulley bolt hasn't budged despite several baths in penetrating lubricant, heating it with a propane torch, impact gun, etc. I'm going to try to jam something in the flex plate to lock the crank, then break the bolt.
Yes, for you...get a pipe and breaker bar and some longer bolts to thread into the flywheel end of the crank. use a board or pipe between the bolts to hold the crank and break the bolt on the other end with pipe and breaker bar.
I use a IR 2135Ti at work at 110psi on a double tank (120 gallon) compressor and even I have to ride the crank bolts on some cars to break them. That electric impact is good for lug nuts, maybe some axle nuts
Yeah that's my plan for this afternoon is to rig something to break that bolt. I'll be using both guns, but i'll probably hang on to the air gun.
what size/airflow is your compressor? the one at work is large, the one at the barn I work on cars in (my own cars) is BIG. its a 2 stage with like 100 gallon tank regulated at 110 but going upto 150.
It's just an inexpensive Husky 6 gallon compressor 135psi max. I need to upgrade it eventually, but for little things here and there it does an okay job.
I returned the dewalt this afternoon. Sinful piece of machinery.
This afternoon I bought a large pry bar and used it to lock the flex plate while I hung on my 24" breaker bar... and got nowhere. So I slid on a 6 foot pipe and gave that a whirl... and it finally broke loose. Huzzah! Once that was off a smaller pry bar and mallet took care of the pulley, and now everything is exposed. Finally! Progress!
My friend who works at Toyota told me he isn't able to pull up Lexus info in their system, so I'm going to call a local Lexus dealership tomorrow and give the VIN to them to find out what exactly was replaced and when - provided it was done at the dealership.
I couldn't take pictures of the motor tonight due to horrible lighting in my garage, but here is one of the Fidanza flywheel and the newly acquired impact gun and impact ratchet.
Huzzah!
Double post ftmfl
Crank pulley: terminated! High five!
Crank pulley: 0
6ft breaker bar: 1
yessssssss
Congrats! one thing I've noticed on more than a few 1MZ's in Lexus...a coolant leak under the intake manifold between the heads somewhere. one of those long slow leaks...Haven't fixed one yet to tell you what it is, but something to maybe think about. I don't know if there is a hose, gasket, or O-ring in there that leaks with age, but it looks like its in a tight spot.
Interdynamics gun???
Ingersoll-Rand.
Got my headers back. Nom nom nom. Flywheel bolts were purchased today as well.
call me an idiot but why your header only has 3 pipes?
got you, i aint that stupid. Its just the picture angle right?
nah just messing, its a V6.. Like this build. Nice.!!
My spreadsheet of crap left to buy is getting smaller and smaller. Only about $700 left to spend - Wiring, exhaust work, tach calibration, gaskets.
Bitter - There is a coolant hose that runs underneath the lower intake manifold which I will be replacing. Leaks generally in that area come from there, or from the heads.
Ahh, those headers are sexy.
Update for this weekend:
The summary of this weekend is: Brake cleaner. I smell like it. My garage smells of it. The motor is happy to have a bath in it. This stuff and a toothbrush is all I need
I live in the boonies and don't have internet, so I pack up the Mac and head to Starbucks (oh how stereotypical of you, you Seattle hipster ) to mooch a bit of Wifi to download a couple FSM's for a Camry, as I am prepping to tear into the motor now. I painted the front bank's valve cover last night a nice Metallic Black, but I REALLY don't like it. My valve covers were ugly to begin with, so I'm going to strip it and put a wrinkle black finish on it, so it covers up some of the ugliness. I also picked up about 10ft of vacuum line to re-route/tuck some of the clutter on the motor.
My clutch should be here in a couple of days, which leaves wiring, and gaskets left before the swap can commence. The time is ticking down!
THIS build IS SPAAARTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!
Thank god it won't be my first time doing it. I think the mr2 holds somewhere around 3 gallons of coolant....
Repainted the valve covers and started the top end teardown this evening. Expect pictures to surface at some point tomorrow.
woot wooot! with my tax return comes.... megasquirt3!
*like*
i want a 1mz for my daily... mmm... and a little frame reinforcement in the rear = big trailer capacity and some baffled rednecks
Drawing closer now...
My clutch showed up at my house today. Stage 2 Kevlar kit from South Bend Clutch. MR2 Turbo pressure plate and disk with a custom 20 spline to mate with my S54.
I also yanked the valve covers and painted them with VHT Wrinkle paint. I REALLY like how it came out. Now, my question for you guys is should I paint the intake manifold to match the valve covers? Or just leave it how it is?
Sending out the harnesses tomorrow afternoon and hope to get back the completed harness in a week or so. Once I get it back the swap will be starting! Excite!
I say that you should paint the intake manifold a nice, soft silver. Nothing shiny and flashy, since your valve covers aren't like that. Which I'll add, came out AWESOME I just think that a soft silver manifold would provide a necessary color contrast in the bay. I think that a black manifold would be too much.
Edit: I saw Daniel's post, and a flat red would look pretty good too. I just don't like the idea of the mostly black.
Edit #2: Either one of those colors would look great, but experiment with doing a similar effect as the valve covers. That'd be pretty damn neato
Okay, all done
I vote paint it. Are you leaving the engine bay red or are you painting it black when the motor is out? Nothing against painting your engine bay black, but I'd personally leave mine the color of the car. As long as you're leaving the engine bay red, I'd paint the intake manifold. Then you won't have too much black and it won't be overwhelming.
No the bay isn't being painted... why would I do that?
I think I'm going to leave the intake silver... Keep in mind there will be a cover on top of it all...
Looks nice ! keep it like it is if your cover is silver, damn your bay is gunna be super super tight with that in there lol.
It'll be the motor that should have gone in the mr2 in the beginning.
Space-wise there will be more room gained left to right in the bay, and front to back should be the same as the 5s.
Seems like half the motor swaps I see have engine bays painted black, despite the actual color of the car. I didn't know if you would be following that trend. And since you are going to have a silver cover over the motor, I say leave the intake manifold silver.
So you'll have slightly more room in the engine bay; what about weight? How will that affect the handling of the car? I know the 5S weighs the same as a small moon, and I assume that the 1MZ isn't any lighter.
1mzfe is 346lbs
5sfe is 385lbs
3sgte is 463lbs
the s54 transmission weighs less than the e153 as well, so it'll be pretty light.
Gaw, that's insane how much incredibly lighter it is than the 3SGTE.
So you're actually going to lose some weight? Good deal
super charge it
Send me 3k for the TRD unit.
Better yet, find one for sale that doesn't need a rebuild.
Yanked the timing belt tonight. Belt looks good. Hydraulic tensioner is good. Pulleys spin well. Water pump spins well with resistance from the fins. No sound of bearing failure.
Consensus: replace all but the hydraulic tensioner... Because I don't want to have to do this twice... Just because it sounds and looks good now doesn't mean it will in 15k miles.
I mailed out the harnesses to mr220v today. Figure i'll see it back in a couple weeks.
Awesome. Leave it NA and build a nice ITB setup...rev it to the moon (with appropriate cams, high comp pistons, and rods of course). 8,000 RPM or nothign . You know how awesome that would sound.
you should drop a LS1 into it instead...
cause thats what everybody puts into their cars...
anywho! i am loving this build. i always wanted a 2 seater rwd v6 that is fun to drive.... guess ill have to settle for my FR set up!
Today was a bit productive.
I reinstalled the upper intake manifold and started rerouting vacuum lines to clean up the egr crap. After that was done I removed the upper and lower intake manifolds to expose the intake valves and the coolant line that runs underneath the lower intake manifold. Replaced that coolant line and cleaned out the intake path in the lower manifold, which was a bit dirty.
To my surprise the intake valves look literally brand new! I haven't looked in on the exhaust valves yet, but I assume they'll look good as well.
Pictures tomorrow. I'm going to bed.
Pictures!
Lower intake manifold with the fuel rails bolted back on. The runners were caked, and this is how it looks after a short bath in brake cleaner and a wire brush.
This is a horrible shot, but it gives a clear shot of the valve, which looks brand new. All of them look like this. I was pretty happy to see that.
And with everything cleaned up a bit.
Water pump and timing belt kit will be here tomorrow. Gaskets on Thursday. Nom nom nom.
nom, nom, nom.....
In a celica nom nom nom
sorry, what tranny are u using, will it bolt to the s54
dude this is such a sick build, love it!
Beginning of re-routing vacuum lines on the intake manifold
I got my hands on the PDF for a 97 Camry. I printed it off... 600 pages later... Macbook for size comparison:
Water pump / timing belt kit:
yank those heads and port them! ok ok maybe not.
I would, but porting costs a nice chunk of change, and I'm not looking to spend hundreds of dollars for a small hp gain.
Probably won't have any updates for tonight or tomorrow, but this weekend I'm hoping to get the motor buttoned up and ready to install. Mr220v should be getting my harness tomorrow or Friday, so I'm hoping to have it back by next weekend.
I know I have been slacking on pictures thus far, but wait until the real work gets going...
drooool.... looks good man! I got a chubby from this
Just a quick update:
Replaced the oil pan gaskets this weekend (no1 and no2 oil pan). Wasted a whole bunch of RTV because I forgot to reinstall the oil pickup.... And I wish I could say that was the first time I've done that... Fml. I them addressed the can gears, which I cannot get off! Pb blaster, propane torch, cheater bar, nothing. I'm working on a method to remove them now so I can do head gaskets and such.
Mr220v pm'ed me yesterday saying my harness is just about complete. instead of needing to drill a second hole in the trunk to bring the harness through, it will be utilizing the factory location. I hope to get that back this weekend or next week and get this swap going!
hey, do you have a pic of the passengers side mount, is it similar to the celica? or completely different..
I need a pic bad
Yeah I've got a picture of the passenger mount. I'll put them up tomorrow.
Macbook is a mbp 13" that I got just before thanksgiving.
how do ya like it? is it the 2.4GHz or 2.53?
i just picked up a 11" MBA
Loving the Flash storage
2.4. Not worth the extra money for a nominal .13. I love it. Always works, no problems. Nothing. Best $1300 I've spent (on computer stuff).
im happy with my 1.6
although Flash based memory helps a lot also
Pictures of the 4V6 mount - as requested.
lookin good dude!
get some good pics of the harness when it comes back, i think imma start using mr220v for my wiring work that i dont do myself as well.
tweak really pissed me off with jims harness.
berto, you wont be able to use a the 4v6 mount in a celica, but the part that bolts to the block is something thats gonna end up being very similar no matter what, just a matter of welding the plate that the chassis mount bolts to in the correct location. (although with the 2gr i would imagine the block mount is a bit diffrent too.)
just make sure your welding skills are up to the task! haha
I definitely will get some pictures of the harness up when it gets here. Once it shows up the physical swap is going to start.
I am still unable to get the cam gears to budge. I need to go and get another monster cheater bar. I might do that today, just need to figure out how I'd fit it in the MR2
Sitting at my coffee stronghold... mooching wifi to bring you an update.
Went to the Home Depot and got another cheater bar. My original one was being used to lock the flex plate and keep the stand upright while I was torquing on the cam bolts...
Brought it home and brought the pain down on those cam bolts... and was finally successful.
Turns out that out of the 15 threads on the cam bolts, 12 of them had loctite all over them. No wonder they wouldn't budge! We did have a casualty - sort of. My 5ft cheater bar decided it didn't want to hold up to the stress I was putting it through...
Got the cams and the backplate off and changed out the water pump for a new Aisin one. I finally got my 37" 6 rib belt for my alternator. Because AC is being deleted the OEM belt wouldn't work and NO ONE stocks the belt I needed. Went and got that as well as a set of NGK plugs.
What I found that is really cool about this motor is that the cams "spring" to TDC by themselves. So as I was getting close they snap to TDC and hold. Its the little things... I tossed the gears back on, as well as the 4V6 mount, alternator, and crank so I can confirm that my belt will work for me.
Excellent!!
****ing stunning work. Going to be worth it mate.
;p
That's the aluminum cylinder block making all the difference vs cast iron block of all 6gc engines This build is looking great!
Soooo I started doing the head gaskets this morning, and I ran into a problem... and now I'm a bit pissed.
I took the cams out of both heads, and I was having a hard time with one bolt on the Left bank exhaust cam. When I got the bolt out it had threads stuck on it... so now I have to send the head off to the machine shop to have that hole tapped and threaded. F. M. L.
I'm going to take care of the right side after the Superbowl, and probably get some pictures up tonight or tomorrow.
Sigh... pictures. These are all from the Left head, minus the last one. I'm going to go home and complete the Right head so I can at least have the day not be a complete failure. The head gasket I installed on the left side is now going to be toast. I'm not going to reuse it after I installed the head again. $56 down the drain...
The bolt (the hole, actually) that has caused me so much frustration:
I'm going to drop it off and have a machine shop install a heli-coil. I don't trust myself to do that, so I'll let someone else worry about screwing it up.
and the current status of the Right side. I'm going to go complete the teardown now.
Good morning, everyone.
I finished the right side last night and got it buttoned back up without a problem. I'll take the left head of again tonight and take it to a machine shop tomorrow to have that helicoil installed.... Its a tad bit upsetting, but I suppose it could be worse, so I'm looking at the bright side - I'm almost done!
sorry to hear about your luck, but keep us posted.
and installing a heli-coil is cake, they should have that back to you in NO-time.
^that comment coming from a rookie who can't get his 3s to idle right lol
subscribed,
only milk and orange juice comes in 2 litres, i want in your club cos there is no replacement for displacement.
You have the heads off man, at least gasket match the intake and exhaust ports and clean up any casting flaws!
As for the bolt issue, **** happens. those bolts are pretty low torque (inch pounds, like 50 or less!) so a thread repair is no problem and should be fine. that being said, I much prefer TimeSert over HeliCoil.
I'll check to see what the machine shop uses. 12ft/lbs on those bolts.
no head work for right now. I don't have the funds required for that. Lame.
Funds? get some bits for your dremel and port! you just put the gasket on and trace it with a sharpy then port to the line.
Yeahhh.... I'm not comfortable with my dremel skills to do that..
ebay, junkyard, need new head.
Sorry for a lack of updates. There are rubber washer/bushings that go in the no. 3 timing cover (the metal plate that bolts to the heads and block) and a handful were ripped, so I'm trying to find part numbers, or just rig something on my own.
I did, however, make a new shift knob the other day. I hand turned one from aluminum over a year ago, and I decided to make an identical one from stainless steel. After I turned it, I threw it in the nitride furnace and treated it to some black oxide @ ~1600° F (black oxide is used on firearms to give that "blued" look). Now I'm waiting to tap it. Pictures will come if this side project. Total weight is 1.05lbs... Its awesome!
this thread is awsome, i want to go buy an mr2 now lol.
My black oxide shift knob.. Perfect color match!
And FINALLY! Back together. No more stripped out cam bolt holes. Now waiting on No. 3 timing cover bushings to put it all back.
Its always been a go.. Just getting to where it is now has been an expensive challenge. I'm really happy with this build, though.
Yeah I know... by that I meant you're super close to actually getting it into your MR2's bay. Lol
Can I borrow that thing? I promise I'll only use it once.
So long as you fill the tank... And don't dent it. If you do, you might as well not come back, as you will be met with the OTHER black oxide item I own...
Bolted the upper intake manifold back on.
My bushings for the timing belt cover will be at the dealer on Tuesday, so once I get them I'll get it completely finished. I'm thinking about ordering the 1MZ service stickers for the engine bay to make it look more OEM (it would be dumb to have the 5SFE engine stickers/vac diagram under the hood with a V6 in there!)
I'm also looking for the Toyota version of the engine cover. Like this one:
My problem is that I can't find one used around here. And the dealer wants over $100 for it and the associated hardware... which I think is crazy for a piece of plastic. If any of you guys know of one that I can score on the cheap let me know!
Waiting to hear back from MR220V. I assume he doesn't meander on the forums on the weekends, so I expect to hear from him tomorrow.
Find a Sienna at a junkyard, I think they have that cover.
No siennas or camrys anywhere around here.
My girlfriend's parents have a sienna. Maybe I should borrow theirs
1st gen avalons have that cover too.
Small update:
Bushings are in, so i'll have it all back together on Friday.
And my harness will be here Friday as well, so i'll get some pictures then.
Won't be doing the swap this weekend, as I am starting a new job on Monday and need to focus on that, but next weekend I am hoping to have the car on the ground with the v6 in it.
Got my harness back from MR220V today. Unboxed it, plugged it in to my ECU, and took this picture:
Excellent work. All loomed up, and the harness I sent was missing some casings, which he went to the junkyard and acquired, which he did not charge me any additional for. I haven't hooked it up on the motor yet, but just from a visual aspect everything looks just like the OEM harness. I'm really happy with this.
And I got the timing belt installed. I'm going to have to take it back off because it isn't holding timing as it rotates... Its actually a bit confusing. On the No3 timing belt cover there are two notches at each cam... and I don't know which ones are TDC. Then when I have it all set to what I see as TDC I give it all a full rotation, and the cams look to be behind as the crank comes around to TDC.
Got a friend to come over and hold tension on the timing belt while I got everything situated. Timing situation has been resolved. I also got a call from a friend who's father owns a Toyota junkyard. He just got a 1MZ Camry and it had the engine cover I needed. So I went down and picked it up for $20.
...and I'll just leave this here.......
I dig the serpentine belt routing.
That's how the MR2 is, but the Alternator is mounted on the back side of the motor. This one will be easier to change than the 5S.
well unless you have AC....
Quick tip to the wise, take that long bolt out of the metal block (alt tensioner) and rub the threads down with a crayon then thread it back together. Wax makes a great anti-seize that will stay inside the threads and won't attract dirt or make a mess like the oily/greasy anti-seize. Sure it'll melt off the outside threads, but it stays inside.
Nothing else to say about that engine other than I ****ing dig that ****.
Saving the picture as well, it's pretty awesome.
Also, I assume this engine has an MZ-series bottom end then? I always though Z stood for supercharged, and obviously it's not...so...what gives?
Okay, question:
The nuts for my headers are serrated on the back... Which will destroy the finish when I tighten them down. I was thinking of like a nylon washer or something to go in between, but won't that just melt?
Ferdi - MZ is the engine code. There is the 1mz, 2mz, and 3mz. being before the hyphen (1mz-fe) doesn't denote a supercharger, its after the hyphen that it means something. I mean, the 7th gen gts is a 2zz-ge, and a supercharged one would be a 2zz-gze...which by your logic of just having a z makes it s/c would mean that bad boy is rocking triple superchargers.
Yup, I wasn't thinking about where that was placed. You're right.
missed the harness pic and info.
looks great, and awesome to hear he went the extra mile for you. wish i could say the same for tweak, when we sent him my cousins harness, my cousin didnt realize that the fuse box was cracked..tweak had the other to replace it there with the other harness he sent..but didnt switch them out.
not even a call to ask about it.
looks like we've found our new wiring guy when it comes to that stuff!
Yeah he did an incredible job. Everything reaches, everything runs like OEM, except the fact that the V6 harness will come through the passenger side of the trunk, which requires cutting a hole in the trunk and running it through. Doug extended the harness to follow the stock MR2 path. He really went the extra mile, and I couldn't be happier.
One O2 sensor connector was broken when I got it back, but I honestly don't know if I sent it out like that or not. I am just going to de-pin that connector and replace it with one from my current MR2 harness. No big deal.
get an angle grinder nd smooth the nuts...
I'm not sure if I skipped over it, but what ECU are you using?
My friend has a V6 camry and wants to do a manual swap on it and there's not that many manual V6 camry's so it's going to be a little difficult.
IIRC you ground an input to the ECM and it turns it into a manual.
I'm using a 94 ES300 ecu. The lexus never came in a manual transmission, so mr220v put some resistors in to trick the ecu into thinking that the auto is there. Otherwise it would give a CEL. On newer camrys where a manual transmission was an option you just need to ground the specific pin on the ecu.
Ohh ok. Do you think he would be able to wire the 96 harness so that it works with the newer camry ecu or would there be problems because of the obdi and obdii?
No updates yet. I developed a cold on Friday, and coupled with the frigid weather here I called off the install for this weekend. I'll try for next weekend.
the engine mount that you made for it, would that work for a celica as well?
and i cannot wait to see this thing finished!
I didn't make it. It was made by a guy in the UK that goes by the name 4v6.
No, that mount probably will not work for the Celica. You could try to get in touch with 4v6 and see if he can make you one...
While sitting here at work recovering from a cold that swept the office last week I purchased a set of DGR coilovers. $1299 MSRP, but I got in on an initial review/release price. $899 + set of forged lug nuts + pillowtop mounts.
These will be installed when the motor is going in - as one of my wheels needs to come off and be sent to a wheel shop to be resealed.... multi-piece wheels are a b*tch.
dude, are u stealing money, thats gonna be a nice car..
I traffic children...
I started a new sys admin job, so I cashed out 137 hours of vacation from my previous employer... Plus my tax return... Insta-3600 dollars.
note on the lug nuts, if after a while of on and off, the threads will wear a little and they'll fit kind of lose until you torque them down, I never had one fail on me, but the play on the thread made me nervous and I stopped using them. so make sure to use your norma lug nuts until you work all hte little things out of your new engine, once things are set in stone, install hte fancy lug nuts, that's what I should have done, to avoid the on and off and wearing the threads as much as I did.
Those coils look meeeaaannnnn, man. I can't wait to see your MR2 all buttoned up.
Culp - I've heard of problems with this type of lugnut, and yes, I am going to hold off on installing them until everything is just right with the motor.
They have to be installed by hand and removed by hand and torqued to spec carefully. Just use steel lug nuts, trust me.
Sorry for lack up updates.
The motor is going to start going in tonight. Hope to have the 5S out tonight and get the 1MZ installed tomorrow morning.
Granted, it isn't going to be complete - my coilovers aren't here yet, I have to have one rim resealed, my new Chico Race Works shift bushings aren't here, I need a new driver side axle and wheel bearing, etc.
My hope is to have the motor in the bay this weekend, completely finished by next weekend. We'll see how that goes. I just started a new job a few weeks ago, and my Manager just got fired today.... so I have been made the interim IT Manager, which means I get all of his work load. Bleh.
Do you get his pay too?
Probably not. We'll find out. It was an overwhelming day at the office, that's for sure.
Crossmember is out. Dropping the motor in the morning. Pics will follow.
woot cant wait to see pics!!
Had to run to town to ship my poly inserts out, but the motor is out and we're working on mating the s54 now. Pictures this evening.
Took out the front motor mount and the innards just fell clean out... Is that bad? Because I'm putting kirkosaurus inserts in with it...
Had to call it for the day, pending information from mr2oc.
I uninstalled the flexplate from the 1MZ and found that it has a spacer in front and behind the plate... and I don't know if I need them for the new flywheel. I don't think I do, and I have it mounted like that right now, but I don't want to get the motor installed only to find that I was supposed to use one or both of the spacers.
Like I mentioned before, I took the front motor mount out, and the inside of the mount just fell out.. I imagine that is a bad thing... So now I need to start looking for a new motor mount as well.
un.amused.
Contact http://www.deyemeracing.com/ and see if they can make that a solid poly mount for you.
When I put my Kirks inserts in, my mounts weren't in the best shape, and they work great with the inserts. However mine weren't THAT bad.
Can't wait to see this swap in person.
All of the mr2 guys says its real common, and since i'm putting in kirkosaurus inserts that I should be okay.
And the v6 guys say don't use the spacer unless you're reusing the bolts from the flex plate, which I'm not.
Back at it in 4 hours. Hope everyone remembered to set their clocks forward an hour!
Same thing happen when we did my cousin's mr2 swap.
We just stuck it back in with the mount inserts.
It's been fine so far.
Today has been a bit frustrating.. but it's alright - this is a learning process.
Woke up early and got the flywheel and clutch kit torqued down, replaced the throw out bearing, and started mating the transmission up to the motor, where I ran into problem 1.
Problem 1: The little guide posts that come out of the bell housing of the transmission - one of them was running straight into another guide post on the motor, so since they are just pressed in, I pulled one out with vice grips and continued on, but it halted my progress for a bit.
Problem 2: I knew going into this that the bolt holes on the transmission didn't match perfectly to the 1MZ... but I was only able to get the two big bolts on top of the transmission in. I then found another matching one towards the bottom of the transmission. The last (4th) bolt that lines up isn't actually a bolt hole at all - it's a spot for a guide post thing to into the engine. No problem - I'll tap it. This leads me to problem number 3.
Problem 3: I live about 15 minutes away from the nearest town. I don't have the luxury of just heading into town for this or that. So I went into town to get a tap for the bolt hole. It was confirmed by V6 guru Jim King on MR2OC that the hole needs to be drilled and tapped for 12x1.25, which is what the main transmission bolts are. I went to town to get one, walked into the hardware store, grabbed the tap, paid and walked out. I got all the way home and started tapping the hole when I realized it wasn't working. I glanced at the package and realized I bought a 10x1.25, not a 12x1.25... And at that point I said screw it - I'm done for the day. I'm not driving all the way back to town for that. Not today.
So I'm stopped until I get home from work tomorrow. I'll go snap some pictures for you guys right now, but I can assure you they're a bit disappointing in terms of progress. I'm personally really peeved on how little I got done this weekend.
On the other hand it's alright, because my new kirkosaurus mounts aren't here yet, nor are my shift cable bushings from CRW, and my DGR coilovers. They'll all be here tomorrow, so I would have needed to revisit a few things if I were to have installed it already.
Good attitude, at least. Best of luck.
The little things...gotta love 'em.
Best of luck tapping that hole and getting the swap completed; patience is a virtue and haste makes waste so I guess this is just another moment to allow you to better your build.
Good luck.
Eh, just buy a whole set of taps.
LOL. First time in the history of the internet where it actually could help somebody tap something.
Better than beating that joint.....
Mwahahaha
Went on and checked the shipping status on my inserts... and they were accidentally shipped across the state... in the wrong direction. No inserts today. No motor install today. Lamesauce.
Should have coilovers by end of day... Still need to get pictures uploaded.... hold please.
Getting ready. I need to pull my pants up... or get a smaller belt.
Nom nom nom nom
Removing the flex plate. Thank god for impact tools!
random fact. batteries don't last as long when you leave them on concrete floors. just fyi. found out through experience.
-saw yours in the background
That's my bangin' diehard cooler - not a real battery.
Dumb question, you have a garage and its raining...yet you're working in the driveway under a tent.
The hoist would hit the rafters.
Ah, who needs rafters anyways!?
WEAKSAUCE IS OUT !!!!!
big paperweight!!!
We have one at the shop too :-p
So today the PNW gods decided to shut off the rain that has been coming down for just about two weeks straight. I got out and installed the rear coilovers this morning. Then I ran to town and got the 12x1.50 tap and a bolt to finish the transmission. Tapped the hole, put in the bolt, and realized the bolt was about 1/2" too long. Snapped these pics, ran back into town and swapped it for a shorter bolt. Transmission will be bolted on today and I hope to get the motor back up into the car this afternoon - On it's wheels by the end of the weekend. Poly mounts were installed as well, but that really isn't even noteworthy simply because it takes all of 5 minutes to do
The old rear suspension - Sportlines on OEM shocks. Dirty.
The bolt that is too long
Poly mount. The front is installed as well, but I guess you'll just have to trust me on that
K&N waiting for installation
Getting there.
yay, no more flapper MAF :lol:
Update from under the car: motor is in!
Okay, so with no help today I didn't get any pictures... I was in the zone, and didn't want to deviate.
With that said I fixed the transmission bolt problem, got the motor installed, ECU hooked up, most of the harness hooked up, crossmember bolted back in, and that's where I stopped for the day. I'm going to get the axles and the hubs back on in the morning and get the front end jacked up to install the front coilovers.
I will snap some photos tomorrow morning for everyone.
I'll go snap them now. I want coffee, so i'll head to starbucks to upload them.
Do any major chain auto stores sell Redline fluids? I need to get my hands on some lightweight shockproof.
Nobody with an MR2 comes to my store. I need entertainment from 2-10.
Mail me an iced triple espresso in a grande cup, with white mocha and cream.
You'll be my best friend. <3
Firewall clearance
NAPA " sells " redline products but don't stock them regulary, if you order them they usually have them next day for you, that's what I did.
PLEASE get some safer jack stands!! The ratchet lock style are VERY unsafe, get the kind that you insert a pin through please or at the very least modify yours so you can place a bolt through them to ensure they do not accidentally unlock and drop down.
I have pin locked jack stands in the garage, I just grabbed these. Never had a problem with them.
I'm in the process of trying to fit the rear header now, which requires me to temporarily drop the crossmember down again... Lame. I'm also having a problem getting the axles to snap in to the transmission. I need another set of hands for this task.... Once I can get it on the ground I'll push it into the garage and finish up the wiring and vac lines.
Rear header is in. I had to drop the crossmember and remove the sway bar, then install the header and lay the sway bar across the top of it, lift the crossmember back into place, and then bolt it all together. As you can see from the pictures - the tolerances are tight.
Got the axles in and the hubs reinstalled. Went to mount everything to the coilover, and the brake line bracket is hitting the body before the hub bolt holes line up. Currently discussing options with the vendor to correct this without voiding my lifetime warranty. This is the only thing keeping me from bolting the wheels on and putting it down.
Tight is good! It just looks like it belongs in their.
Yeah, they would need to have the weight lifted off, and they would need to rise up an inch or so to release from the notch they are sitting in.
Either way - I am sore from this weekend. Bleh.
scary thread.
mine have both the clicker, and the locking pin.
i dont normally use the pin...maybe i should..lol
Stuff that still needs to be installed/sorted out:
- Ordered a gallon of Redline Lightweight Shockproof yesterday. ~$56.
- My modified tach came in yesterday as well - so when I have it back on the ground I'll pull the cluster and swap it and another fuel gauge in (I have a suspicion that mine is broken).
- Need to figure out a coolant line solution. The driver's side pipe from the radiator needs to go to the passenger side of the motor, and the same for the passenger side.
OR I can connect the lines up to the wrong sides and use a flexible hose under the car to X the lines to the appropriate hard pipe.
- I have vac lines off the intake manifold that were marked Power Steering - but I don't have power steering. What do I need to do with those? Cap them? Reroute them somewhere?
Spoke to the vendor that I got the coilovers from about the brake line bracket hitting the inside wheel well and he said that I should just bend them out of the way, so I'm going to take the coilovers out and hammer on the bracket a bit to make them work. That's the only thing preventing me from putting the car back down on the ground and pushing it into the garage.
Espresso and white mocha with breve huh? Somehow I saw that coming.
Are those coilovers specific to the MR2? If so, seems like a real production flaw to have those brackets in the way.
I could say an iced grande white mocha americano - no water, with cream... but that actually costs more, as it's rung up as an americano.
I'm from Seattle - I'm a coffee snob. Geographical requirement and birthright as a Seattle native.
Oh, it's not that. Merely, the beverage parallels your persona - a bit of a tough center, but really just surrounded by a lot of white fluffy stuff.
..... Okay Freud
I can't wait to see this all finished up. Looking good....
Hacked off the brake line bracket and actually got the car on the ground.
Coils are set WAY too low, so I need to raise the car an inch or so.
Pictures to come tomorrow.
Raised the rear coils up an inch last night. It was so low that I had trouble getting my jack under the crossmember. No coilovers on the front yet. That is what I'll be doing tonight I hope. Then it'll sit level.
It is still sitting weird because the spare is on the passenger side while that rim is off getting resealed.
I ordered an engine lid shock that should be here in a day or so... So no more prop rod for me!
What the whole motor is being help up by.
Just kidding, man. I'm really excited for you.
zipties make the world go 'round
They're what's keeping my front bumper in contact with my fenders. I really need to get the actual OEM part for that. Ha
Got a call from the wheel shop just now. Apparently on top of my wheel leaking from the seal, it has a bend in it. Nothing big, but it's there, so I might as well have it straightened.
$300 down the drain for the straightening and reseal. I'll have the wheel back on Tuesday.
Damn, that blows.
$800 for the wheels and tires
$200 for one rim to be straightened after hitting random debris in the road
$300 to seal another rim and straighten it.
$1300 into these rims so far...
Got all four corners installed last night. Still sitting funny because of the spare on the back passenger, which is throwing off all four corners, but this is what it's looking like right now.
One finger gap on the front driver's side with ~ -1 degree camber
Trying to load the passenger side to photobucket, but it keeps loading like garbage, so you can just take my word on it. Front has like +2 degree camber, and no wheel gap... Stupid spare is ruining my aesthetics!
Running into a few last minute problems...
My engine harness is missing a plug for the knock sensor... so I'm a bit worried about that. I'm going to look over the harness again, but I'm sure that if it was there I would have seen it...
Finally got that picture to load properly... Here is my ghetto setup.. Herra frush!
Dope. Run it like that on first start-up.
Talk about a peg leg burn out.
those rims look nice!
It poured yesterday, so I didn't want to get under the car with standing water, so I did some crap up top.
- Modified the ignitor bracket and mounted that to the driver's side strut tower under the sail panel so you don't see it.
- Modified the ACIS canister bracket to bolt to the stock 5S ignitor location on the rear firewall under the fusebox, again so you don't see it.
- Ran a line from the coolant overflow bottle across the back side of the motor and over to t he coolant neck.
- Installed new heater core lines.
- Put the driver's side sail panel back on, then my engine lid and the new gas shock.
My question for the uber gurus - as you can see in the first picture, the fuel line from the engine to the fuel filter is WAY too short, and I need to either replace it or extend it by about a foot. Replacing doesn't seem feasible on the cheap, as the line is pressed into fittings on each end. Is there a way for me to extend the line so that it reaches?
The fuel system isn't an area I'd cheap out on, just bite the bullet and buy a new one, the last thing you want is to set your new 1mz on fire 0_0
you can have a line made or get a kit that lets you make your own. Just find a hydraulic shop and have them make you some lines, they can install the fittings and crimp them for you to be just like factory.
Buying a new one is going to be more like cutting the old hard line, threading it, and running a custom line with custom adapters that I would probably need to order and wait to arrive. If it were as easy as unclamping a line and replacing it I wouldn't even bother asking the question.
Bitter - I will check on that - as I'm sure there are shops in the area that can do that, but I'm thinking the line isn't removable. It's pressed into a fitting that is integrated with the hard line. I might be able to take the entire hard line off and have a shop extend it. I'll look into that when I get home.
Well the hardline doesn't separate from the fuel rails, so I hacked the line off the 5s and cut the 1mz banjo fitting off and jammed a brass barb in the two and tightened it down with fuel line clamps. This is temporary for me to confirm the car runs fine before towing it to get that line replaced as will as my exhaust fabricated and hooked up.
Also ran a new fuel return line... No more ziptied hose holding the motor in, much to Hector's dismay.
In the garage now
I may have missed, but have you fired it up yet?
Nope. Pushed it into the garage. There will be a video posted when it does fire up for the first time.
Still have to move the throttle cable, route coolant lines, and install the front motor mount. I attempted the mount last night, but the bolt holes in the firewall weren't lining up... I suspect that the poly inserts are going to need a bit of massaging to get it all to line up. It's in the garage because I was tired of laying on the wet ground outside.
Tsunami car show on Sunday at Pacific Raceways. I'm trying to get it done before then so I can attend.
Very nice swap. Makes me miss my mr2, again.
I miss my MR2 as well... Wish it was running already.
I'm having a hell of a time getting the clutch slave cylinder/front motor mount to line up and install properly. It seems like an impossible task for one person, or my clutch fork isn't in right, with concerns me because I don't want to take this out again. A friend is coming over Saturday to help me out with this.
I install the clutch slave assembly+ front motor mount bracket - and the top two holes for the slave assembly do not line up... at all. It needs to move to the right (if you're under the car), which means the slave cylinder needs to compress, which I can't get enough leverage to do AND put bolts in. This is causing the front mount to not line up with the holes in the frame... and putting a serious damper on my V6 buzz. I've spent three days (only a few hours total) trying to get this sorted out with no luck and I'm getting really frustrated with it. I've been putting it off and putting it off, but it's crunch time and only a couple things left to do now, so putting it off isn't an option anymore. I don't recall having this much trouble when I reinstalled my 5S, but then again I had a LOT more room to work under the car with the 5S.
I did get the throttle cable re-routed and installed, so that is done now. I am going to address the coolant line problem this evening when I get home from work and hopefully get that all sorted out. Stopping by the Toyota junkyard near my house on my way home to grab the 1MZ OEM intake pipe so I can get the intake installed.
This damned motor mount!
So I needed to replace my clutch slave cylinder. It was blown out from someone hitting the clutch while moving the car around with the slave out of the clutch fork. Not a big deal. $20 and a few minutes of my time.
But I STILL cannot get this mount bolted in. You can see in the picture below (all shot from under the car) the mount holes are not going to line up with the frame...
So I took the poly mounts out and installed the stock setup... and got this.
I'm confused as to why this isn't sitting centered. All of the other motor mounts are in just fine. This one just isn't lining up. I'm about to notch the motor mount bracket so that it works, but the mounts are attached to the transmission - and that did not change. This SHOULD be working. I don't get it.
have you tightened all the other mounts.
if so, loosen them up and may give you more wiggle room..
may help, if not weld a plate in the bracket and redrill.
I need side-to-side wiggle room. Loosening the back mount won't give me that, and to loosen the sides I'd need to put the hoist back on the motor.
loosen the bolts on the trans side too so you have some more play in everything and then have a friend jack and pry the engine around till you can get 2 large nails into the holes to act as alignment pins. I've had problems lining up mounts on cars, ended up needing someone to just brute force move the engine around some. Some mounts at rest have weight on them and will never line up right unless you shift the engine. Make sense?
Makes sense, it's just that the last three times I've pulled MR2 motors I have never needed to do this.
So don't loosen the thru-bolt for the transmission side mount, but the actual bolts that hold the mount to the transmission?
loosen everything and wiggle it around till you get that mounts bolts in, don't tighten them. then work on belt end mount, the trans mount, and finally the last mount. once all are bolted finger tight and fully threaded, run them all down tight. You've been working with a different engine with different mounts, weight and balance.
Why don't you just fly out here and wrap this swap up for me
:lol: whats the job pay?
airfare + room + food + bashing on noobs together + ?
This sh*t is priceless!
In other news, coolant hoses and shift cables are hooked up. Short of that front motor mount and fluids this should be ready to fire up.
Pass, costs $88.95 an hour for me but the advice is always free.
you need these guys help...
I really like them. They're pretty sticky and have a real aggressive tread pattern.
Doug - I see you looking in on this thread. I got your package the other day and have a couple questions for you. I'll take pictures and post back here tomorrow.
yeah everybody i know that has them love the performance of the tires considering the cost.
what size are you running on the front/back?
205/40 up front, 235/40 in back.
So I was contacted by the guy on MR2OC who makes the V6 mount, as it appears that is the reason for this:
He offered to send me an unwelded mount, so I can get the measurements correct and have it welded, but I told him that would not be necessary.
It looks like I'll be taking it to my shop next Monday-ish to have the exhaust fabricated, brakes and clutch bled, fuel line extended, and the front mount plate replaced to bolt up. I'm not sure I want to twist the motor around to get that front mount to line up, but bring the side mounts to their flex limit in the process.
I'm wrapping up my portion of the swap on Friday when I put fluids in it and with any luck, fire it up. A video will be posted of that, and another when it returns from the shop with a functional exhaust system.
I also got a supplemental harness from MR220V the other day with resistors to clear the automatic transmission codes, as well as some other CEL junk. I still need to find a way to mount the V6 ECU in the trunk, as it is substantially larger than the 5S ECU, and the OEM brackets do not work. Minor details.
So the mount was made wrong?
Apparently the e153 trans sits over a little farther than the S54, and as I understand it the jig was made from the e153.
IT LIVES!!!!!!
Video coming! mwahahahaha
*drools* I can't wait.
So I take it the mounting problem was solved?
Audio is teh suck, because it's off my nikon, but you get the idea for now. It was very loud... and as stated by my lovely girlfriend at the end - "That is an angry noise!"
Motor mount was not resolved. My shop will have to take care of it for me.
mwahahaha.
http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b342/BeMineForeverBRH/?action=view¤t=1MZ_Start.mp4
I liked the laugh
Is it just straight header right now?
Open header
No wonder it sounded like a giant blender consuming a lion and a tiger at the same time
maniacal laugh...
My God...that is such an epic sound.
Very nicely done.
Props and a few internet points for having the exact same reaction I'd have. Congratulations on getting 'er started.
Put the cover on this morning.
I'm putting coolant in today and calling AAA to have them come tow it to my shop so they can:
Modify the motor mount
Fabricate B-pipe w/Cat + 3rd o2 sensor bung
Toss my 2-piece fuel line and make it one
Bleed the brakes
Bleed the clutch
Hope to get it back mid week.
Can't wait to go home, throw some coolant in it, and start it again!
thats awesome man, I cant wait to see more videos of this. I think i have the same engine in my highlander, If it can push my awd pig around. Im sure this car is gonna fly.
Sitting in my driveway waiting for the tow truck to arrive.
I backed the car out and washed it, so it's pretty for it's trip to town. I'll get another video of it running from farther away to try and capture the sound.
bleeding the brakes is easy, even with one person.
Bleeding the clutch on those things...not so much fun.
Topped off the coolant, and rolled it out for a quick bath.
AAA came and took her away, and left her here at my shop.
And now we wait for the phone call tomorrow when the shop calls and says "uhhh... you want us to do what?"
thats quite a good looking teyota fiero you got der
Apparently the shop is one guy down this week, so they're not going to be able to get started on it until Thursday-Friday. Unamused.
Unamused indeed. Tell the shop your girlfriend is due any day and this is your only transportation.
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