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May 26, 2020 - 2:23 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #1104953 · Replies: 6 · Views: 408
slavie

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Before you put in sway bars take a look at your shocks/struts. If they're worn out (almost guaranteed if over 100k mi), your best "anti-roll" strategy is to put in new shocks. You will be amazed at the difference in roll and squat that will make. If you're still not happy, then look into anti-roll bars.

But, there aren't many stabilizer bars to pick from, really - there's ST and Whiteline, both are fine. Avoid any no-name stuff from China. If you're interested in lowering springs, then there are more options and also improve the roll situation (if you get quality ones that are actually stiffer than stock). I have the Suspension Techniques front and rear bars, they fit and work.

Apr 15, 2020 - 12:18 AM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #1104816 · Replies: 4 · Views: 283
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Can you push pistons back in with bleeder closed? Roughly same amount of effort on both L and R sides? The fact that you can push the pistons in with bleeder open is great, means that the pistons are not stuck, but tells you nothing about the condition of the rubber lines, which I would suspect next. Soft lines can look fine on the outside but have inner lining swollen/collapsed, not allowing easy bleeding and potentially causing the caliper to drag. Pressurized fluid can push through with booster working, but not so much when bleeding brakes.

May as well go with SS lines. I think StopTech ones may be no longer available (I had a hard time finding a set in stock), but you can but the Toyota adapters and universal SS line of appropriate length and basically build your own a la carte for less than the cost of StopTech lines.

Apr 12, 2020 - 12:15 PM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #1104801 · Replies: 2 · Views: 153
slavie

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Sure does look like heated mirrors. Maybe Yurope had them as an option. They were optional on same vintage Camry here in the States.
Do you have the square with the wavy lines coming off it (similar to the defrost button) thingy on the front of the mirror? That's what the Camry ones had to identify it.

Apr 6, 2020 - 2:37 PM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #1104765 · Replies: 6 · Views: 223
slavie

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I've tried to find that de-pin tool for other forums posts in the past - no luck. I purchased it on eBay way back when. It's stamped JCC 10 (1.0mm I presume). It's sturdy shank cut at a 60 degree or so angle.
I posted it in my mini-guide on depinning on TN.com (last pic in that post):
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/1999-c...3/post-14128429

Also, just stumbled across this treasure trove:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16Ul...YpOY/edit#gid=0

Apr 6, 2020 - 1:51 PM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #1104763 · Replies: 6 · Views: 223
slavie

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Not sure if you had trouble finding the exact TE pin I included the number of: TE 316836, and TE 316838.
DigiKey stocks the smaller 316836:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/t...48TR-ND/2331081

~$0.10 USD each. Though looks like it's 6000 minimum. Any retailers selling in smaller quantities will have higher price, naturally. Either way, my point is, these are readily available.
Link to TE site, has exact specifications so you can measure against any pin you have on hand if you're not 100% sure:
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-316836-1.html

The crimper EFI site offers looks like the standard chinese crimper (knockoff of Delphi 12085271) - same thing as Tool-CF3 from Corsa and many others.

Finally, if you're gonna be working with connectors, get yourself a quality de-pin tool. The cheap chinese ones are crap. I once bought an original Toyota replica for $15, which I thought was expensive, but I've de-pinned more pins with that tool than any other I have. Totally worth every penny.

Hope this helps.

Apr 5, 2020 - 10:57 PM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #1104758 · Replies: 6 · Views: 223
slavie

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Dug through my notes, found this (from mr2oc.com):
https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/toyota-ecu-pl...rnesses.167561/

This is for ECU connectors, but they're same for most of the car, so should apply.
they're amp/tyco
small terminals for male plugs are part # 316836/7
large terminals are part # 316838

Mar 12, 2020 - 10:00 AM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #1104589 · Replies: 2 · Views: 247
slavie

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Do you realize that you will need a whole dashboard harness and front body harness for the wiring? Everything else is bolt in, but the wiring is part of the harnesses.
I have the wiring from the dashboard harness as I deleted Cruise Control on my car, all connectors depinned (not cut). There are 22 or so wires from the Cruise Control computer going all over the place in the dash harness (power, ground, ECU, speedometer, steering controls, brake pedal), and 7 wires going into the body harness for the actuator.

Let me know if interested. I am planning to remove the body harness wiring, too, but have not done it, yet. You need to understand electrical wiring diagrams pretty well to enable all this without replacing the whole harness.

Mar 3, 2020 - 9:33 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #1104525 · Replies: 1 · Views: 909
slavie

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Sure, WRC cars had tubular k-frames. The actual FIA WRC cars, not the homologation specials sold to the public. There's the FIA certification document floating around somewhere that has a few pics. Suspension mounting points were relocated, custom hubs, brakes, suspension, to name a few...

Are any available for sale? Absolutely not. Why? Too small of a market for any company to delve into it. All that engineering effort is not worth the handful k-frames they're likely to sell.

Can you make your own? By all means. Bushings? Whatever you want and/or need.
Tubing? Again, depends on what you need. Going off-road rallying? Build stronger. Going drag racing? Build lighter.
It's a custom project, you can do your thing.

Feb 23, 2020 - 11:18 AM Forum: Website Discussion · Post Preview: #1104471 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,104
slavie

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Yes, PB realized they messed up originally when they flat out banned all hotlinking and put up a rediculous paywall. This is their second attempt - give people blurry images instead, and a limited amount of unblurred images per month. Once the limit is reached (and the limit is per user who posted the picture, not user who views pictures), the images are blurred.

Feb 22, 2020 - 11:01 PM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #1104469 · Replies: 5 · Views: 1,508
slavie

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Here's the one I have for sale, listed on eBay:


Shipping to Poland is $26
Contact me via forum if interested and I'll be able to ship internationally (US only shipping in the eBay listing)

Jan 22, 2020 - 10:17 PM Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #1104209 · Replies: 6 · Views: 1,725
slavie

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Out of curiosity, I briefly looked into it one of the previous times the site crashed. The IP.Board - the InVision Board software - that this site runs on, is no longer free. I don't know, but I believe that the old version that 6gc.net runs on was free at the time this forum was commenced. So, to transition all the threads, if that's even possible, would require purchasing the board software.

No idea how much the board costs, but on top of that would be hosting and domain name cost (looks like currently with NAMECHEAP INC, possibly hosted there as well). Then, I have no idea what legal implications may or may not be of just blatantly downloading an entire site and copying it, or whether anyone would care.

There may be other free boards for use by forums, but then the question of how to migrate the data would come up. Again, don't have an answer.

If you ask me, the easiest would be for someone to take over the existing site. But, my understanding is that Coomer has been not reachable for some time.
It's entirely possible the site will permanently cease to exist some day if whomever pays for hosting and domain name stops paying.

EDIT: Looked up the site on whois. Registry Expiry Date: 2020-02-16T10:52:42 - unless it's on auto-renewal or something, this may be the date the site goes dark.

Jan 22, 2020 - 8:53 AM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #1104201 · Replies: 2 · Views: 886
slavie

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Is it broken, or are you not able to find where it should be? Slides out from inside the lid of the storage bin b/w the seats.

Jan 10, 2020 - 10:35 AM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #1104139 · Replies: 341 · Views: 807,706
slavie

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Reminds me of a time I was asked to fix an overheating laptop for a neighbor. They had a cat. I took it apart and pulled out a 1/4" thick compacted strip of cat hair sitting at the radiator exit.

Jan 9, 2020 - 10:26 AM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #1104135 · Replies: 341 · Views: 807,706
slavie

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QUOTE (Bitter @ Jan 8, 2020 - 8:31 PM) *
I don't care for imgur, their TOS technically forbids hotlinking images and even though they allow it now they could at any point in the future pull a ****ing Photobucket and screw us all over and break all the hotlinked images. Nah, I don't want to participate in that kind of thing again. I'll figure something out, or not. lol whatevs.

I'm pretty sure all image hosting sites have a clause like that. Yet, most of them allow it anyway without so much as a watermark.
Many of the forums recently updated their platforms and now allow image uploads, though I don't see that happening here anytime soon.

Jan 6, 2020 - 2:13 PM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #1104116 · Replies: 341 · Views: 807,706
slavie

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QUOTE (Bitter @ Jan 6, 2020 - 8:50 AM) *
I had wanted to do ITX for my AMD but none of the ITX boards had good enough VRM for a 2700X and I couldn't find any broken that I knew I could repair.

Yea, miniITX boards are expensive. The Asus X470-I I got was pricey AF, I really cringed buying it. Had the ASRock X370 miniITX before, but ASRock sucks on AMD these days (build a ASRock Taichi + R7 1700x for a buddy, and the board could barely handle the CPU at stock speeds...), so I had to upgrade. Asus has been pretty good to me, the on-board audio is almost as good as a decent USB DAC, so I called it good enough. Too many issues with USB dropping out on external DAC's for me, annoying.

I have never been able to build a PC that I was 100% happy with. Current setup is pretty good, but I'm not happy with the noise and stock fan control. Asus now has the best stock fan control I've ever seen (w/ ramp up delay, custom map), but it's still driven by CPU internal temp, which jumps too much. Planning to build a custom hardline loop w/ Corsair Commander Pro and water temp probe where fans would ramp up based on water temp - been planning for a year now, lol. In WC loops I've build in the past, the pump was usually the loudest part.

Jan 6, 2020 - 12:08 AM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #1104111 · Replies: 341 · Views: 807,706
slavie

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Honestly, don't care about air cooled 911's - hyped up prices, nobody drives them because they're all "collector cars", crap AC, all the usual issues that come with old cars. No thanks, I'll take a 996/7.
Was checking out 944's for some time, though they've gone up in price, a lot, so I'm out. Boxsters are now cheaper and better in every way.

And I'm glad AMD is back in town. Always had AMD back in the day, Duron 700, Athlon 3200, Phenom X4, then X6, but had to switch to Intel for a while (i5-760, then i5-4670k) because AMD had nothing competitive. Ran right back to AMD with R5 1600, now R5 2600X. Never liked Intel's business practices - price gouging, forcing people to upgrade MB with every new gen, among others. Vega 56, 970 Pro NVMe, 16GB G.Skill RAM (also cannot get it to work at advertised speeds... ehh), Asus X470-I complete my miniITX build.

Jan 3, 2020 - 5:45 PM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #1104096 · Replies: 341 · Views: 807,706
slavie

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Hate to break it to ya, but your wallpaper is wrong.
And yea, def budget a GPU upgrade - RGB action on your current one is weak.

Dec 4, 2019 - 12:45 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1104071 · Replies: 1 · Views: 708
slavie

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Most likely the transmission, the diffs hardly ever go wrong. The fact that you can push it means that either the transmission brake broke, or more likely a whole lot more. Time to look for a replacement trans.

Nov 29, 2019 - 11:41 AM Forum: My Project · Post Preview: #1104012 · Replies: 608 · Views: 133,009
slavie

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Nice progress. Besides the weather factor, why did you not want to drill the spot welds and replace the body panels? I mean, you could cover the car up to prevent water intrusion, no? Thanks!

Nov 18, 2019 - 1:13 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1103918 · Replies: 9 · Views: 1,488
slavie

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Usually you can re-arrange the shims around and many will work from the same head (the clearance spread is 2 thou), but you're almost guaranteed to need a handful in sizes you won't have and will need to be ordered. Even a local dealer is unlikely to have the sizes you need in stock, as these are older engines. So, if you were thinking of putting new cams and re-shimming them in a weekend, probably not gonna happen unless you have a few dozen spare shims around.
Even though I do have a few dozen spare shims around, the whole process of shimming and measuring takes very long. I did buy the tool for these heads that sort of allows you to replace shims without taking the cam off, but I found that tool doesn't work very well for some of the shims. If I had to change more than 2-3 shims, it was easier to pull the whole cam out rather than fiddle with the tool.

Nov 11, 2019 - 7:46 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #1103886 · Replies: 2 · Views: 2,423
slavie

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Take any other compatible pad, such as Wagner QC476, and check that.
LEXUS ES300 1992-1996
LEXUS LS400 1990-1992
LEXUS SC300 1992-1998
TOYOTA AVALON 1995-1997
TOYOTA CAMRY 1992-2001 (V6 only)
TOYOTA CELICA 1994-1999
TOYOTA SIENNA 1998-2003

eBay is pretty good about listing compatibility.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Pad-Set...6-/191616760315

Nov 5, 2019 - 4:01 PM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #1103840 · Replies: 5 · Views: 1,508
slavie

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I emailed him a few weeks ago, no response. Shipping to Poland is not cheap.

Oct 28, 2019 - 12:51 PM Forum: My Project · Post Preview: #1103790 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,414
slavie

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Prop tunnel is there until you get to rear seats where the gas tank lives on non-GT4 models. Everything back from that point will not work for you.
No, GT4 subframe will not bolt in - mounting points are totally different. If you remove the stock fuel tank you can make an adapter to bolt to stock FWD rear subframe mounting points and provide mounting points for AWD rear diff. But, given that you'll have to do lots of custom fab work, might as well chop up the floor plan and make your own mounts.
Supra ECU will work if you're fine with it. Lots of aftermarket options if you want more tuning flexibility.

Not sure how well your interior will survive - you'll have to cut a pretty big opening for RWD gearbox. Also, you'll either have to cut out the spare wheel well and drop a fuel cell in there if you want it to hide, otherwise it's gonna have to go in the trunk. Lot's of custom work if you want the interior to look stock-ish.

This is not a project for the faint of heart, but doable if you've got the skills and a decent welding machine.

Oct 18, 2019 - 4:13 PM Forum: My Project · Post Preview: #1103722 · Replies: 6 · Views: 1,729
slavie

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$500 sounds kinda high for that $200 car.
If it was damaged like that, bank on replacing the wheel bearing (or just get the whole used hub assembly for a good measure), and very likely the control arm. Tie rod end, both inner and outer, are a suspect, as is the CV axle, but you won't find out until later.
If the CV axle was bent... just walk away. Don't mean to scare you, but a guy I know very well bought a salvage VW about a year ago and fixed it up. Similar damage to yours, and the CV axle was bent. Now, 10 month later, his differential quit sending shrapnel all throughout the gearbox (DSG), killing it. Turns out, the force that bent CV axle had damaged the diff, allowing it to slowly grind the pins into the diff housing.

Other than that, like others said, what are you intentions? I, too, have a $500 96 Celica, GT though, that had hit a curb hard enough to crack a wheel and brake the strut. Wheel bearing quit months later. The car is now a 24HoursOfLemons racer, and I'm still not able to align it right (camber, it's really close though) despite replacing the whole subframe with control arms, and putting in new struts and springs.

Oct 14, 2019 - 2:33 PM Forum: My Project · Post Preview: #1103682 · Replies: 29 · Views: 11,750
slavie

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UPDATE!
The Celica has endured through it's second LeMons race back in August, again at Thompson, CT event.

The morning of race day, the speedometer stopped working. Who cares, tach and temp gauge is all you really need in a race car. Start the race.

2hr in after the first refueling (engine required to be shut off for refueling), the car would not start. Jumped it, it died 100yd later. Battery is dead, no juice from alternator. Given that the last race we had killed an alternator (I properly tested that fact at home and replaced the alternator with another one I had in the pile), we immediately assumed the alt had quit again, though we did not have the time to properly test it. Boy was I pissed when a new, $240 alternator from local AZ did not charge either. FML. Threw in a new battery and sent it back out to finish the day. We decided to charge batteries from the tow rig and swap them every few hours.

How did the "new" motor do? Predictably, it blew the head gasket. But see, as a sign of growing strength in our relationship, I brought with me a Graphite gasket and a new set of head bolts this time, along with all the toolage required to perform the surgery. Even though we had 4 souls (though in sum only about 2-1/4 worth of competent mechanic), the HG took us about 8 hours to do.
Fired right up. On the second try, that is, after we realized the engine harness wanted to be re-connected to the ECU.

Next day, new HG is in and we're feeling good. Battery fully charged, start the race. The whole gauge cluster is dead this time - no tach, no temp gauge, nothing. I did 3 laps just to test the motor, but with new HG and no temp gauge I did not want to run the car. Commence electrical troubleshooting. Turns out, the exciter wire for the alt is powered off the same IGN-ON circuit as the speedo, and that circuit is not getting power. F that - hard wired constant 12v into the circuit and sent it back out on the track to finish the last 4 hours trouble free.

Here's a novel idea: a bunch of geniuses replacing the head gasket at the race track padlock instead of racing:

Through the power of miracle alone, back on track Sunday. Yes, that is an E28 about to blow by us as if we were dragging a boat anchor (a recurring theme for us with the genuinely bone stock 5S-FE in my car):

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