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May 28, 2019 - 8:42 PM Forum: Forced Induction · Post Preview: #1102327 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1,045
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


It goes to a (bcs) boost control solinoid or sometimes called the VSV. It how the car limits the boost to lower pressures in first and second gear. Its frequently bypassed when a manual boost controller is installed.

May 9, 2019 - 9:05 PM Forum: My Project · Post Preview: #1102105 · Replies: 154 · Views: 7,653
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


QUOTE (bloodMoney @ May 8, 2019 - 12:07 PM) *
No pics for this update, but the wheels are back on the car.

I've also replaced the cluster bulbs with LEDs since one of the three were out.

Auxito LED

There are hot spots, but at least I can see all my gauges at night.

Finally, I pulled the fuel sender to try and see why my gauge wasn't working. Turns out the entire sender had come off of the bracket and was sitting the in bottom of the tank. After wrestling the sender up with a magnet, I soldered the connections back together and I seem to have a working gauge again.

Although, It appears that the drive to and from Starved Rock for the midwest meet used 3/4 tank of fuel. I certainly hope that's not the case, as it was only a 200 mi. round trip.... Maybe it had something to do with my foot magically getting heavier everytime Luke gets next to me....



Any chance you remember how many/type of bulbs are in the GT4 Cluster. The lighting guide just says :
"Guage Cluster - 194 (Larger Bulbs) and 74 (Smaller Bulbs)"

Im not sure how accurate that info actually is.


May 7, 2019 - 1:40 AM Forum: Exterior Styling · Post Preview: #1102052 · Replies: 2 · Views: 650
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


the four has been neglected for too long so it got its pampering today.

-Both city lights were done - replaced it with some RGB ones.
-One fog light was burnt out - replaced with some dual colour white/amber bulbs. (spent a **** ton of time trying to change them from the back before realizing how easy you can remove the whole fog light assembly)

-Carbon fiber wrapped the riser blocks
-Carbon fiber wrapped the mirrors

-Painted the spoiler because the clear coat was peeling bad.
-clayed and waxed most of the car.

-Also changed out the stock BOV pipe for a much shorter one.
-Bled the brakes and changed the fluid from dot3 to dot4 and a brake inspection.










Apr 29, 2019 - 6:25 PM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #1101934 · Replies: 278 · Views: 781,955
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


I love me some electronics so I guess I should post here since I got a few nerdy hobbies.

PC office


Tricopters.


Race Quads and Long Range


A "few" of my custom built flashlights.



Apr 23, 2019 - 1:44 AM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #1101840 · Replies: 2 · Views: 188
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


I guess first off I should say I,ve already got coilovers and they are in good shape but seem to be attached to the stock top mounts.

Are there any adjustable strut mounts available from aftermarket companies separate from their full coil over systems

Are the st205 top mounts the same as the lower trims?

Along the same lines what are options for wheel bearings. I figure with 160k km now one should be coming up. IF my experience with how many bearings I went through on my st185 is any indication.

Apr 23, 2019 - 1:27 AM Forum: My Project · Post Preview: #1101838 · Replies: 154 · Views: 7,653
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
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My st205s always had a less than great pedal feel. I,ve got braided stainless lines, EBC pads and rotors. Bled the system twice now hoping it would solid up. No abs on my car. I mean it stops okay but for the overkill brake system the st205s have I expect a little more.

I had to change the brake master on my st185 and it was an absolute pain because of the rhd. Hope the st205 is more forgiving.

I wouldn't mind replacing my gauge cluster lights for some LEDs that more closely match the greddy gauges in the car. Do you know offhand how many and what type of bulb is called for. I hope my roll cage doesn't get in the way of removing panels to pull the cluster.

Apr 12, 2019 - 6:08 PM Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #1101677 · Replies: 10255 · Views: 774,992
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


Took the gt4 for a drive for the first time in almost 3 years. Found out a mouse got into the ECU area so spent 2 days repairing wiring (which involved a complete interior stripping) Got it washed and put some 94 octane in to dilute that 3 year old 91.

Not beating on it yet but miss the sounds soooooo much.

https://youtu.be/EZvCclSmAJs
youtube

Jul 21, 2014 - 5:14 PM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #1051490 · Replies: 440 · Views: 92,805
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
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Anyone heard from him lately? I sent a email to inquire about getting a kit and never got a response.

Jan 21, 2011 - 6:15 PM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #896402 · Replies: 4 · Views: 1,977
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jan 20, 2011 - 9:23 AM) *
those type should only use 5 pins, driving lights, brake lights, turn signal, reverse light, and the ground.
someone correct me if I'm wrong though.



Well I managed to solve the issue but never really found the exact problem all I did was remove all the heat shrink from the previous owners splices and inspected each connection then put new heat shrink around them.

The cars factory connector does have 6 wires going to it but the harness that goes into the bulbs only has 5 wires coming from it. Although I never could find out what that other wire does. Im assuming it would be for the euro rear facing fogs would be my best bet.


Jan 13, 2011 - 8:07 PM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #894768 · Replies: 4 · Views: 1,977
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


Does anyone have diagrams or information on JDM taillights I all of the sudden am having a issue with my passenger side tail light I've got it out now and found a home made harness from the factory to the bulbs and I'm pretty sure this is the issue. But having a diagram would make this a lot easier to diagnose if the problem is the harness or if it is within the factory harness.

The factory harness has 6 pins. but the tail light harness only uses 5 of them

If anyone has wiring info it would be much appreciated!

for reference these are my tail lights



Nov 27, 2010 - 3:18 PM Forum: Forced Induction · Post Preview: #887736 · Replies: 17 · Views: 5,789
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


QUOTE (black13 @ Nov 27, 2010 - 4:04 PM) *
Mine comes on as well in colder than -15c or so weather after a couple min of driving but it constantly stays on till car is re-started.

QUOTE (CDUB @ Nov 27, 2010 - 1:56 PM) *
Well turns out my intercooler was slightly low, topped it up and properly bled it this time and CEL is gone and no trace of it in over a week now.

Noticed the connection between the CEL comming on at the same time the IC pump would start up. It must of been sucking the coolant down below the sensor, then coolant would slosh around intermittently closing the sensor.

For anyone else having this issue I would check the IC coolant level it will look full but when the pump comes on it actually sucks down quite a bit.

Do you check the level when the engine is running then? and did you use the pink coolant stuff from Toyota?



Ya to properly fill up the Intercooler the motor has to be running. Top it up, then you have to blip the throttle (i just used the TB in the engine bay) as I know now that the IC pump only comes on when the throttle is open and for 30sec after so every 20 sec or so just blip the throttle again to keep the pump going. You should watch the coolant get sucked down a tiny amount top it off and keep the pump going for a couple mins then throw the cap on while the pump is still active.

I never did this last winter and just topped the IC off with the motor running assuming the pump ran all the time leading to my problems.

I use toyota red "for life" coolant...

Nov 27, 2010 - 2:56 PM Forum: Forced Induction · Post Preview: #887732 · Replies: 17 · Views: 5,789
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


Well turns out my intercooler was slightly low, topped it up and properly bled it this time and CEL is gone and no trace of it in over a week now.

Noticed the connection between the CEL comming on at the same time the IC pump would start up. It must of been sucking the coolant down below the sensor, then coolant would slosh around intermittently closing the sensor.

For anyone else having this issue I would check the IC coolant level it will look full but when the pump comes on it actually sucks down quite a bit.

Nov 19, 2010 - 6:48 PM Forum: Forced Induction · Post Preview: #886862 · Replies: 17 · Views: 5,789
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


QUOTE (salv @ Nov 19, 2010 - 3:03 PM) *
The flashing CEL light under diagnostics interprets the CEL code. It will flash in a sequence... Make a vid and maybe I can make out what CEL code it is? I have the 205 Engine manual.


the thing is its not flashing when i bridge the diag pin its flashing while im driving. I was under the assumption it should just come on and stay lit if it detected a fault not flashing while Im driving like it is doing now. It also does'nt seem to be flashing any specific code but just comes on and flashes 2-6 times evenly spaced out then goes back off.

Nov 19, 2010 - 2:46 PM Forum: Forced Induction · Post Preview: #886814 · Replies: 17 · Views: 5,789
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


Okay start off the car is a94 st205 jap import with light mods. now my issue is that the Check Engine Light is illuminating after a few minutes of driving the car but i believe it shouldn't be flashing like it is and should come on permanently till the fault it fixed or the ecu is reset? My light will flash a random number of times then go off for a random period of time.(will flash once a second between 2-10times then go off for a random period of time)

Also, i know how to read the codes by bridgeing te1 and e1 in the diagnostics port but when i turn the ign to "on" the cel comes on then off after about 3 seconds like a normal start up.

The car is not acting any different with the light on or off as compared to the last 30XXXkm I've driven it.

The CEL only started happening since it got very cold here.

Anyone have insight on to why the CEL is flashing and not coming on permanently or why I am unable to retrieve codes.

I've tried just resetting the ecu a few times now but this issue is still around

If it helps i can get a video of the dash while I'm driving if anyone thinks it will help.


Aug 23, 2010 - 9:05 PM Forum: Exterior Styling · Post Preview: #871901 · Replies: 7 · Views: 1,719
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


Oh and the proper tire size should be either 215/40/18 or 225/40/18 correct all the tire websites keep telling me I should run 215/35/18 (of course Im using a 1994 ceclica GTS since they never put the gt4 on the lists)

Aug 23, 2010 - 9:02 PM Forum: Exterior Styling · Post Preview: #871900 · Replies: 7 · Views: 1,719
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


Okay so after 6 hours of searching for rims that will fit my gt-four I found 3 sets that I can use and am interested in and am asking for some help deciding.

first off are AR6


second set are the AR9s these come with 3 sets of inserts that you can swap out (carbon red and chrome... i would probably use the carbon or leave it out and run free air. Ive included pictures of both)


and lastly the ti-53s (I can't seem to find a pic of these installed on a car but did find a supplier after a few hours of searching and a few emails)


and here is my car that the wheels will be going on.




I am open to suggestions, but to clear the gtfour calipers in the front a 35offset is required which most rims don't come it. And I already have 17" Volk Te-37s and 16"OZ chronus(both in white) already and would like something a bit more flashy for show and shines and the such.

May 21, 2010 - 5:01 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #854891 · Replies: 1 · Views: 979
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


K well I got some shot Figure 8 links on my gt four and got the parts in finally so going to swap them out very shortly but I can seem to find what I need to torque the hardware to.

Im replacing the lower arm as well as the fig 8.

need to know

arm to body
arm to figure 8
figure 8 to strut
arm to hub

as well any helpful tips that anyone can pass along would be great (looks like a very straightforward job except for the drivers side where you have to jack up the car to get the bolt to clear the oil pan to get the lower arm off from the body)

Sep 25, 2009 - 6:51 PM Forum: My Project · Post Preview: #800157 · Replies: 123 · Views: 66,163
CDUB

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Joined Aug 6, '09
From AB, CANADA
Currently Offline


You don't need to run 94 octane in your gt four. I've been running shell 91 since I've owned my ST205. As well I also own A 91 Celica Gt-four(st185) that I have owned for the past 4 years(80,000km that ive put on) and it has never seen anything higher than 91 and it has been to a few racing events. As well my 3s powered MR2(sw20) only gets 91 and I've never had any issues with it.

I know that the japanese ron rating translates to about 94 octane but these cars seem to run just fine on 91 (at stock boost although my 91gt four is running 14psi) unlike some of the other japanese turbo vehicles *cough wrx cough*

94 is not offered anywhere near me is the only reason I'm forced to use 91 but have had 0 issues and never heard of anyone having a issue.


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