Ok, changed my topic. Popped my hood and took a quick look, it was obvious: Bad motor mount. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic in the dark, but can you see how the engine is leaning toward the passenger side? The timing cover is pretty close to resting on the side of the mount.
What brand and where should I order new mounts? I figure I'll just knock all of them out at the same time.
You will have to get the axle carrier bracket pressed off, and then the bearing pressed off as well.
Then you will need to get a new bearing and the bracket pressed back on.
I just got the bracket taken off because Kevin (Soulend) needed it.
The shop might have over priced a little, but it was $30 to just remove the bracket. It was rusted on pretty well he said so that might have been why.
Btw, I do have an axle with a perfectly good bearing, but no bracket, if you want it? PM me if interested.
Well I listened and played with it some more on my drive to work just now. I'm leaning more towards motor mounts, but I'm not entirely sure until I can jack it up and take a look. When it's in gear and the clutch is engaged, I can goose the throttle and you hear what sounds like the engine popping on the mounts. When it's not in gear, there's not much noise at all.
I would guess if the axle carrier is bad, I'd be hearing something else?
If you want them to last, get OEM mounts. Although if your going cost effective, get the anchor mounts from rockauto. Because thats what most of the auto stores stock, but they charge alot more.
before you order the mount, i would check the 3 bolts that hold the mount bracket to the motor, the 2 14mm's that bolt the the engine bracket to the mount, and the one under the mount itself.
chances are, one of those has worked itself loose.
Well I'm screwed. The bolts broke off in the side of the motor. One of them is gone, the other was still there but broken in half with the rest of it in the side of the block.
I guess I'll be calling shops tomorrow to see if they can extract those and replace them. Hopefully won't cost too much, but now my suspension is put even farther off.
hope u get it fixed.
Dropped the car off at the Toyota dealer this morning. They think they can do it pretty easily, but they want to look into what caused them to break in the first place. Not sure what they'll find there. Hopefully this isn't too expensive, it's cutting into my suspension fund.
Also, are the Kirks polyurethane mount inserts still available? My front mount is looking a little torn up as well so I figure it's a good time to upgrade.
Update: Just got a call back from Toyota, they want $1759 in parts and labor to drill out those 2 studs. Said there was no way to do it without completely pulling the motor and tranny, I call BS lol
So it looks like this weekend I'll be working on this! I'll get some pics of the damage, and probably replace my timing belt and such at the same time.
you "might" be able to lower the engine enough to get in there with a drill....your gonna be 90% of the way to pulling the motor/tranny by the time you get there, tho, your gonna have to pull the crossmember, and f+R mounts, disconnect the exhaust (you may not HAVE to, but you'll prolly ruin your flex pipe if you dont) and possibly fuel lines ect to get it low enough.
even then, i dunno if youll be able to get it down enough.
good luck!
as for what caused it, thats usually pretty easy, one (or more) of the 3 bolts wasnt torqued down properly, and worked itself loose from vibration, and the others snapped under the stress.
if one of the 2 has meat sticking out of the block, concentrate on getting it out first, it'll hold with 2 bolts and loctite.
dont ask how i know.
Got them out! Came out by hand, didn't have to heat or drill or anything. Just took the timing cover off and was able to start turning them with the corner of a screwdriver, got them all out. New ones don't come into the dealer until Monday so I'm going to change my timing belt and such this weekend while the timing covers and such are all off.
dang, all broken up. so no dealer tag , DIY FTW
DIY for sure. Not trying to knock your dealer or anything. But when a technician at my local dealer told me that I can should go somewhere else to get work done (mostly cause dealer charges are through the roof) I stopped going there and did as much as I could myself. Although I still go there for parts and whatnot, but not service!
Yeah it is nice when a seemingly hard job goes like that!
My problem is tolls/garage. I live in apartments but have access to a shop (sometimes). Hope you get it all worked out though!
Anyone with access to a service manual know the torque specs for the 3 bolts going into the block? I've tried all the links to manuals on here but all the links are dead.
Just thought I'd add an update to say the car is back together and running great! I properly torqued the bolts, but will re-check them in a week or so just in case. Thanks for everyones help!
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