Hi, after over a year of gathering parts my Celica finally is in the garage and gets her custom header, exhaust and some other stuff.
Yesterday we fitted the big Evo9 intercooler, i had to get the ST205 crash bar because the stock one is to tight, intercooler piping was done too and i'm very happy with it. I will use the stock ST205 air filter box, since there is not much space between the filter box and the engine, the IC piping is a little bit tricky but it looks like we found a good route.
The header will be done in the next days.
Short list of parts i'm using:
- Garrett T25 Turbo from a CA18DET
- Mitsubishi EVO 9 Intercooler
- E-manage Ultimate
- Innovate LC-1 Wideband
- ST202 3S-GE Injectors (372ccm)
- ST205 Fuel Pump
- Bosch Blow-Off from a Audi S3
- Custom Header and 3" Exhaust
- dozens of other small parts
Nicht schlecht, Herr Specht
(Not bad Mr. Woodpecker )
Has it been on the dyno yet?
What's the power output?
Why didn't you just do a 3s-ge or 3s-gte swap?
Du bist der mit den Ultraleggeras, der öfter mal auf dem Eurospeedway unterwegs ist, stimmts?
(Not relevant to US-habitants... i apologize for writing german)
Holy hell!!! Is that massive intercooler really necessary on a 7A?? How much boost are you planning to run?
amazing job...
Sieht gut aus. Wie viel kW sind in planung?
I have a small water to air that sits in the bay and it is awesome. But I also daily drive the car, I don't race it on the track. Although I'd have to say it would probably do better in longer and harder running conditions like highway or track use rather than around town or at slower speeds, reason being the increased amount/cooler air getting to the heat exchanger mounted in front. Water has a better cooling ability than air which is subject to the outside temperature. The w2a itself under the hood is ice cold after a highway run in the summer.
most efficient mounting of an intercooler to date. nice job.
that would block the air to the radiator, yes?
x2, wont the trackday benefits of the intercooler be offset by the fact that now your engine will be running alot warmer? i imagine the cooler air charge wont matter thing when the cylinders are surrounded by a piping hot water jacket 0.o
Plus he has fans...
great 7afte build so far!!!Isnt 3" exhaust a lil big for a 7afte?
haha you're right, completely forgot about the condenser
dont the cooling passages run between the cylinders? maybe waterjacket isnt the right term... ill check out what my haynes manual has to say
either way back on topic, nice setup
Header is completed and the rest of the exhaust will be done this week.
thats some CLEAN exhaust work there
awwwww a cat wheres the fun in that?
Gotta love that German Engineering
I'll try to fit the stock fan on the other side of the radiator, if that doesn't work i'll get one or two Spal fans. They're much thinner, should fit without any problems.
The hot side of the turbo will get a heat shield, the header maybe too but i'm not shure about that.
Got new pics, there are still some things to do but the engine should run this weekend.
Grat job mate,keep up the good work!!
Nice work, looks like your project is coming along very clean.
More pics
i like the way how you fabricate the downpipe housing. Looks great...
IT'S ALIVE!!
Today we finaly got everything done what's needed to let the engine run. After 10 minutes wondering why my E-manage and the starter don't work, my friend simply asked me "immobilizer??"... unbelievable how fast you can forget something like that
The engine runs a bit rich at idle and closed loop didn't worked, maybe a problem with the stock lambda probe. Tomorrow we put the car on the dyno and i try to set up the E-manage so that the car will run not too bad with boost, fine tuning will follow the next weeks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz2k1th25F4
and some pics
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8E745EkCVw&feature=channel_page
First run with some engine knock because of too advanced ignition timing making the engine stutter above 5000rpm, i retarded the timing about 2-3° in the next runs.
nice figure...!! cant wait to see full dyno plot.
im watching the video but i also notice some knocking sound behind. Is that the engine knock sound you're refering to? Coz i can hear it even on low rpm and gradually increasing as ur rev up
The loud knocking sounds are from the dyno. The actual engine knocking isn't audible but you can hear that the engine doesn't rev freely in high rpm. Too bad i don't have a video from the other runs.
alright. that's scared me of the loudness. If were at that level, very soon will...... hehehe
I finally got the car back and it runs great, the exhaust is relatively quiet but sounds wonderful. The E-manage works great but i have to do some settings till ignition and injection are perfect.. still get some engine knock but not as bad as with the old spark plugs. I just did a short test drive on the Autobahn i never was that fast on >110mph and the car still pulls very hard, but my clutch decided to die and started to slip real bad.... i'll order a Exedy Stage 2..
short video of 2. - 3. gear, the clutch gripped but the wheels are spinning in 2. gear http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-t8JA9D12-M&feature=channel_page
keep it coming.....
man that is a GREAT install, i love how clean you installed everything. Especially with the small space your working with.
I would however try and maybe wrap the manifold and the first 2ft of the charge pipe with some heat wrap. that should help a little in keeping the heat from spreading in the engine bay, and more imporatantly the radiator. Ive never seen an exhaust pipe so close to the radiator, Id be a bit a concerned about the radiator breaking at a track day.
Either way, great job
everything looks great. good job
I went to the track yesterday and the engine seems to like the boost , no bigger problems at all, the oil temp was always below 120°C (~250°F) and exhaust gas temp peaked at 930°C (1700°F) @ 6200rpm. The water got a little bit hotter than usual but not too much.
The stock clutch is still in an holds the boost without problems... i'm a little bit astonished about this.
I got a video of the fastest lap.. cam position sucks but i love the engine sound http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EilCgRJxIYM
I was able to drop the lap times from 2:30 to 2:21 and this with bad tires...
Most of the time the egt is between 1300-1600°F but it can rise to 1650-1700 on the long straight..
It usualy peaks at 1630°F ... 1690°F was the highest i've seen so far.
After about 7k miles the engine still runs great, i did a http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p33/Hafkai/kompressionsmessung2010.jpg some weeks ago with ~190psi on all cylinders. The 7A really can take some abuse.. over 200 miles or 15 turns at the circuit without any problems, even at over 90°F ambient temperature.
The engine gets 10psi boost at all day driving and 7-9psi at the track, depending on the weather thanks to boost creep at low temps....
Oil consumption is a little bit high with almost 1L/1000km... but it could be worse
The fuel consumption is not bad with ~27 mpg overall and 20 mpg at the circuit.
I got a short video from the Autobahn, testing 100-200 km/h acceleration at 10psi http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpwiK16gnyo
Awesome man, awesome...this thread is inspiration for me.
What have you done to the internals? Very sorry, I don't remember from the first time reading.
Interesting. OOBE said that 8 PSI was the max on stock internals. No issues whatsoever though?
No issues at all, it depends on the injection and especially the ignition tuning how much a 7A will handle without braking something. I tuned my 7A to run with an afr of 11,5:1 at full boost and retarded the timing a lot. It's absolutely important to watch engine knock while tuning.
8 psi is pretty safe on a good tuned 7A, 10 psi is the max i would give a stock engine over a longer period of time, maybe 12-13 psi with an water injection.
If you want to go higher you have to lower the compression and get some stronger internals...
Ferdi,
With good tuning, 10 PSI on a good size turbo is nothing for this engine. You can run it daily. Even with the piston I hurt in the dyno, I was still boosting 15 PSI daily until the car overheated because of a failing radiator fan last week. The broken piston never got more hurt than what it was when I overboosted 18 PSI at the dyno, which is when it broke. The dyno read 222 WHP when the piston broke and I wasn't even on WOT. Who knows if the engine saw over 250 horses. The dyno read that, but the engine might've made way more. That's asking a lot. These are replacement pistons, so they might be weaker than Toyota pistons.
Remember that different turbos give you different power per pound of boost, and the weather conditions affect power A LOT, which is a very important fact that most people forget or fail to realize. In my case, just one PSI in the lower boost range on my turbo counts for ten wheel horsepower according to the dyno, and that's on 85 degree weather at night with a lot of humidity. I might get more on a cool day, which never happens in this island. I also have a bigger turbo, custom intake manifold and bigger throttle body...and also a more efficient intercooler with a horrible two PSI pressure drop. These items were not installed last time I dynoed, so I cannot compare the numbers. Everything changed. Who knows how much these items helped the engine or took away. I couldn't baseline unfortunately.
At 15 PSI, I'm probably getting a bit more than ten wheel horsepower per pound of boost, since the turbo is in its sweet spot on higher boost. Taking this into consideration and given the acceleration rate and how the car feels, if I follow that 10 WHP/PSI ratio, who knows if I'm probably at 250 WHP as of now...ignoring that the head is warped and that the piston is hurt. It's very possible, since the AFR stayed religiously the same from 7 PSI to 18 PSI and the power was being made consistently.
If it wouldn't have overboosted, it wouldn't have broke a piston and I ASSUME I would be around that power level, give or take. A smaller turbo will give you less obviously. So after my experience, I can say that with a good tune, you can boost a bitty more than 200 WHP daily with no problems.
Well, the most important thing is to find a good tuner, and either use an e-Manage, or an AEM FIC, or better yet, a stand-alone EMS, because you NEED to be able to control timing if you want the engine to last. I've broken a piston three times in six years. The first two times were because of detonation, not boost level or leaning out. This engine advances timing a boatload when accelerating. You will not believe it. I wish I would've recorded when my tuner took timing readings with a very expensive digital timing light. It was unreal and we were surprised that the engine lasted through all that abuse with such advanced timing throughout these years. By the way, I just sold my e-Manage last week. It worked awesome, but I need more control of the engine because I'm aiming for good numbers now since I'm going with forged internals.
I'd love to find somebody local that knew their way around a 7A-FE, or at least a turbo'd version of a Japanese 4-banger...my mechanic might have a hookup though, or know himself actually. I imagine those systems are pretty expensive? Well worth it though, obviously.
So basically, if the timing's off, the spark won't go off relative to the correct piston position and it'll just run like crap?
The spark will go off regardless, and there is no such thing as correct piston position. It depends on the engine and what you want to do with it. The point is that if the timing is too advanced, you'll get detonation. Detonation kills engines inside. There are different kinds of detonation. That's why you need high octane fuel or meth/water injection to run high boost. No need for someone to know about 7A-FE engines. My tuner is a 3S-GTE expert, but he has never touched a 7A-FE before mine. It's all about knowing the principles of tuning.
Okay. I was just thinking in relation of the piston in the chamber moving toward the spark or away from it...if that makes sense.
Detonation would be the the spark igniting the mix b4 the piston is a TDC(top dead center)...thus teh crank forcing the piston up and the mix forcing it down(bad mix )
well i ment wayyy before haha...Detonation=heat...pre-ignition=timing
Hafkai, another question...you're running the stock transmission right? I'd like to do a manual swap before I turbo, and I'm wondering if the ST's C52 (?) will hold the power, or if I should just get the GT's S54.
Ferdi,doc told me he had a 4agze with a c52 and 225 running through it fine..
> Nov 9, 2009 - 8:02 PM
> SwissFerdi
> '97 ST Hatchback
> From Fort Myers, FL
> I'd love to find somebody local that knew their way around a 7A-FE, or at least a turbo'd version of a Japanese 4-banger...
We'd All love to find a professional to do it.
> So basically, if the timing's off, the spark won't go off relative to the correct piston position and it'll just run like crap?
Learn to tune Yourself ?
www.efi101.com
How far away is Port Charlotte ?
EFI-101
Fundamentals of High Performance Engine Tuning
Using Aftermarket Electronic Fuel Injection
Port Charlotte, FL (Relentless RPM)
http://www.efi101.com/schedule.php?cat=EFI&country=USA
Regards;
OOBE, i've only taken 1 degree per psi of boost. I'm running at 9 psi.
for someone with an EMS on their vehicule and a good basic acknowledge of tuning, those courses make a lot of sense and are not pricey at all.
just to tune your frteshly installed EMS will cost you around 700 depending on the tuner / shop you go to.
http://www.evans-tuning.com/rates_aem.html
That is crazy...I had no idea. This is why I'm researching a few years ahead of time...thanks man!
Now, would this also be necessary on a 3S-GTE swap?
Alright. Well, I guess it is money well spent. I know you did two turbo setups, and a tune for each I'm guessing, so do you think you would have spent less than a 3S-GTE swap if you had done only a single setup and single tune? Without any mods not absolutely necessary to turbo'ing, of course.
what are the specs ( offset specially ) of your wheels ?
I have the same brake set-up but I needed 15 mm spacers to clear my wheels.
what disc did you use on your set-up ?
I used Cadillac catera
The wheels are 16x7 ET35, the brake discs are stock Toyota parts for the ST205.
Another Autobahn video , this time at about 12psi, the boost drops a little bit over 5500rpm and i think the T25 can't give much more than this at top end.... but i'm pretty happy with the result.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zS5Xk_vXfM
Got some new injectors.. SARD 650cc/min
The reason for those big injectors is E85, i'm still tuning the e-manage but so far the engine runs really great with this stuff.
Keep us updated, man. I'm no longer in the 7A-FTE game but I will never lose my love for the engine. I still have mine sitting in my garage. I don't want to sell it. I want to install it in another car.
What are the plans for the rebuild?
How is the pull with the 650cc injectors? Does that turbo only hit like 15 psi max? Do you have a write up on some of this besides what you have as a part list in the begging? Have you tried pump gas with those new injectors? Sorry for all the questions I'm still learning lol
Today i went to a dyno and i'm really happy with the results
Very good results!!
Ooooh...upgraded pistons, rods, and new gaskets and belts...I like it!
Hafkai bro,
I've sold my previous 7afte (stock engine, wrx td04-13t, emanage blue, Ron97) to my friend. On my hand, im boosting 1.1bar for 2 years and now with him another 2 years. So far no issue except head gasket burnt once.
now im going to go for it again except with IHI Vf35 turbo and standalone haltech sprint 500. Will push to 1.3bar and see how it go. since you're going to rebuilt, why not push it to max?
Sadly it's to late to push the stock engine to max .. last week a rod bearing failed, now i got a broken rod and a big hole in the block..... looks like a oil problem. I already got a new block and most of the stuff i need to completely rebuild it, i just need new bearings.
But the engine can handle a good amount of power without problems. I was trackracing the last 2 years with the turbo, this year with about 230HP and over 300Nm, i just should have changed the bearings
I had my old 7AFTE tuned to the limits on OEM internals as well so this project is for me real nostalgia... I hope your car will be running again soon and luckily we meet in Poland on Pan European Celica Meeting next year.
After taking the old engine apart i found out that the bearing wasn't the cause of the thrown rod, it looks like the spark plug overheatet extremely, the electrode began to glow and i got the worst of it all... pre-ignition. I'm not shure what caused the plug to overheat, i don't think it was a fuel problem but i will let the injectors get checked.
Here is a pic of the spark plug and some of the rest of the engine:
The new block is getting machined this week and a new cylinderhead is allmost done, i just have to polish the combustion chambers and finish the ports.
wow that plug looks horrible but im glad ur continuing the build
The new block is ready and the head just needs to be put together.
Finished exhaust port
i cant wait to see the results
Been folowing this with great interest. Hope you find out what caused that plug to melt and looks like that new forged engine will give you even more power with the biger turbo and a little more boost.
Where did you find the forged pistons and rings? and is it the stock crankshaft?
You got a PN about the pistons
The crankshaft is still the stock one, there are no alternatives anyway but this part would be the last to fail on this engine..
The project is still alive but everything takes much longer than expected.. the new engine is ready to get in the car, the stock ecu and the e-manage ultimate got replaced by a EMS 6860. Hopefully the engine will be in the car next week, a new rediator + Spal fan will follow and some modifications to the exhaust and intercooler piping are needed to fit the slightly larger T28 turbo.
Some pics from the last months:
Any update?
Better question is how don't you notice a topless girl in the pic it's tight there lol
guess I look to close at pics
Well... super slow progress but i'm still working on the car... i finally found a garage with decent space so the car doesn't have to stand outside on some else`s property all the time.
The first thing i did was making space to rework most of the electrical stuff i build in over the years, lots of crap got ripped out there... now all the wires are nicely installed and things like fuses are there too.. woohoo
In all the time between doing nothing and doing even more nothing i decided that this car won't need a radio and most of the gauges got a new place.
Oh and finally.. the engine is running, needs lots of tuning but it is alive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jD7AKhuGy5I and after some tuning http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmVsgvuZRlg
Love everything you've done so far. Damn, how much I want to turbo my 7A-FE...
Inspiring, yet at the same time it makes me realize how much of a bitch it'd be to do.
Also, damn Ferdi it takes you forever to get anything done.
Almost 4 years to swap transmissions, come on now.
Well yes, you are correct in a sense, but how that's related to this thread...
This is page 3...
I think that is the most awesome gauge cluster setup I've ever seen.
Turbo spool.mp3
Nice gauge setup. Puts everything at a good level an aimed at you
Maybe you can squeeze a MP3 player in by the CIG lighter lol
I finally got everything back together and the engine running good enough to take it for a ride.. after 3 years.. this really was exciting
I did about 400miles in 5 days. No problems so far, no water or oil cunsumption, no smoke...
I haven't pushed the engine a lot but i did some 3. gear pulls and i think the engine will be nice when it's fully tuned and running high boost. For now i set the boost to 10psi (T28 turbo) and my 80-120km/h times where almost as fast as with the old T25 @ 14psi ...
Did a short video of a late test drive, nothing special but i love the look of all the gauges ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_wWNu9v7hc
And i got a nice set of new rims since the old 16" Ultraleggera didn't fit over the front brake without spacers...
Sparco Assetto Gara 7,5jx17 with Avon ZZR tires in 225/45.
love it!
wow... at last I can read news like this . it is looking great (I love that view with both wheels in a line with body).
I just made some pics of the car and i'm quite happy with the outcome... comments are welcome
Best looking 7a I have ever seen
Small update... i bought a simple compression tester and this is the result: cylinder 1-4 : 190 | 188 | 187 | 186 psi ... I'm pretty happy with those numbers.
Then i build a scale to measure the corner weights of the car that is able to weigh up to 500kg (~1100lbs) since i wasn't able to find one thats affordable.
Surely not as precise as a professional corner weight scale but enough to get an idea of the cars weight distribution
The only problem is that i only have one scale.... so i have to get all the other wheels on the same height and it takes some time to measure every corner... but im not doing this every month so it's ok
Weights without driver and full tank of E85:
FL 745 lbs | FR 815 lbs / 63%
RL 485 lbs | RR 428 lbs / 37%
Total 2473 lbs
Weights with driver:
FL 813 lbs | FR 835 lbs
RL 555 lbs | RR 432 lbs
Total 2635 lbs
Just finished another little winter project started out with a ST202 rev counter i installed that was a little inaccurate.. searched a way to calibrate it and found out that you can alter the movement of the needle quite a bit. Enough to let it travel twice as much with the same rpms, or the opposite way with the speed indicator.
Doesn't look perfect but it works..
And a short video where i was testing the modified hardware with the old dials.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIYlkdgLK0Q
ha friggin awesome stuff didnt know you were on ethonal
E85 is awesome, i will try to get some E100 for this season... no more crappy fuel that contaminates the good alcohol .... just a little difficult to get..
And since my 650cc SARD injectors are getting a little bit to small for this stuff i will replace them with some far more modern Bosch EV14 980cc injectors.
New fuel rail and injectors are ready, i just need some fittings and stuff to build a new fuel line from the stock filter to the rail.
Tut die 7afte haben die Zündspule im Verteiler wie der 5sfe?
Es tut uns leid mein Deutsch ist einen kleinen rostig haha, mag meinen auto. XD
that is the sexiest 7a manifold I have ever seen O.O
Great looking manifold, and I don't know how I missed it (and nobody else commented), but a center-mounted tacho! (!!!!!) That's fantastic! I love that look. Why the optimistic redline though?
Back on the streets ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjJLM6aARAc
Still have to do lots of tuning with the new injectors and my ST205 fuelpump seems to be maxed out... but i have a Aeromotive 340 ready to go in.
But for now i`m really happy how the engine performs.
Pulling very nice there Lot of respect for this Celica with all the work you've done on it
WOW. Good work! Love every bit of this ST! 7ATFE powa!! Ever thought about shaving down some of the fins inside of the intake mani?
Thanks for your comments
@ kormysh8: not really, i don't think this would gain any power at all, the best solution would be a completely new intake manifold, but for now the stock on seems to be sufficient.
I finally went to the track yesterday, i was somewhat nervous and planned only to do some slow laps.... well... that was the plan ....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PZWNCFQrNA .... starting behind the ST205 was a bad idea... i just had to go WOT...
The suspension seriously needs a new setup... the car corners like a rwd without the corner exit grip .... very loose rear end, but lots of fun ..
But even with the crappy traction i managed a top speed of 132mph on this track, faster than i thought.
That was pretty good. A lot of tire squealing lol.
What's the Porsche brakes from?
Well...... crap .....
Always remember to use loctite on flywheel bolts.... btw.. does someone know if there are suitable ARP bolts for the 7A?
I'm not sure if they really got loose and the whole thing rattled itself to death or if the bolts simlpy failed.. but the marks from the bolt heads in the flywheel look like the thing was loose for some time...
Scary! Any clutch damage?
Nothing bad, just some scratches.
The worst part is the crankshaft....
I hope the mating surface can be fixed but it sucks to take half the engine apart.... it was running so good and everything was fine, goddamit
I replaced the crankshaft with my old one from the first engine, had to get 2 new main bearings because the crank has different journal sizes and i replaced all rod bearings too. Still waiting for the ARP flywheel bolts and i got me a new clutch since the Exedy Stage 2 was slipping at 1,2bar boost.
The new one is a ACT XTSS, should hold up to 310ft/lbs... the Exedy was supposed to hold 261ft/lbs wich is pretty much the exact torque i had with 1,1bar.
I finally got the ARP bolts (ARP# 203-2802), torqued them to 70ft/lbs (stock bolts 58ft/lbs) and this time with loctite....
ARP compared to stock bolts:
New clutch...
I got most stuff back together, just need to torque the transmission bolts and reinstall the IC piping. The clutch pedal is definitely stiffer compared to the Exedy Stage 2 but nothing to bad.
Well... the ACT clutch is amazing, smooth engagement and seems to hold more torque than the Exedy Stage 2... maybe to much for my old transmission... years of track racing an a lot more power than stock resulted in a funny looking 3rd gear:
I replaced the transmission with a spare one i luckily had laying around, but i think i should start to look out for an alternative to the C52 ...
Man, you've got some bad luck lately. Kudos for not getting frustrated with the car!
Long time since the last post... haven't done much on the car besides trying not to destroy something ..
The only new things are some oil-/fuel catch tanks and a new air filter box, everything build from scratch.
Since my Aeromotive Stealth intank pump died after just about 2-3.000km i put the old ST205 pump back in and let her fill the catch tank, from there an external Bosch 044 feeds the engine.
The air filter box still needs a top cover since it's kinda illegal to run open air filters in germany .... but for now i leave it open, just love the sound ....
Thats some really nice welding. good work
My favorite 7A-FE. Beautiful. Real racecar.
Thanks! .. i'm really happy how the welds look too but i still need to practice a lot
I just made a little video while testing a new ECU setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfIHGawd7Tw
Again some Videos... ..
My little 7A vs my daily S4 B5 .. poor Audi...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BDnM7jfjGg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcGBhF-MgfU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3ZphoQLMAg
And a little Video made by a friend
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sMpKEzkDIw
You really are courageous with that oil restrictor Is the OEM oil pressure sender on the 7AFE also in the head? Then you could check the pressure there with a sensor just to be sure that there is still enough pressure up top.
I wouldn't say that 9,5 mm lift isn't much on an 1.8 liter ;-)
you could just swap in the final drive from the c56 transmission. a 4.312 ratio. or better yet find a C160 transmission.
but great build. its so unique. are you still running that cold air box set up with new intake manifold??
Quite some time since my last post and a lot has been done to my Celica, the car was running really good with the 2017 setup but i couldnīt get any more out of the old T28 so in 2019 i decided to go with a new turbo. I planned to get an EFR for some time but i would have been a lot work to make it fit, so i decided to stay with Garrett and got me a GTX2860R GenII and it definitely was the best decision... awesome turbo and the sound is amazing
Of course the C52 didnīt like it that much... i kept boost in 3. gear at about 16psi and raised it in 4. and 5. to about 21psi but i still managed to rip the 3rd gear appart just like my old transmission... so i started to search something else that will hold some power... of course a E58 was the way to go but impossible to get in germany, i luckily found one in Australia and he even shipped it to Germany. Meanwhile i put in another C52 so in can drive and raised the boost in 4. and 5. even more to about 26psi and barely used the 3rd gear at all
I took the E58 apart to see what i got and was a little disappointed regarding the size of the gears, of course they are stronger than the C52 ones but i was hoping for something more trustworthy ... here is a direct comparison left E58 / right C52:
Then i got the idea of mating a E154 ST205 transmission to the E58 bell housing wich should work in theory.... i found a E154f for even half the price the E58 cost me, took it apart and eveything was looking perfect, the gears are WAY stronger and should hold way more than my 7A will ever produce...
A nice LSD shouldnīt be missing in a build like this...
The mounts on the transmission had to be reworked to make all this fit but that wasnīt to much trouble, the clutch and axles were much more of a problem.... at first i tried to get a new clutch disc from ACT for my XTSS but they didnīt respond to me, so i contacted clutchmasters and they made me a custom clutch to fit the E154 spline, itīs a FX350 so still very daily drivable and holds quite some torque..
As for the axles i planned to get some custom made but that would have cost me a fortune here in Germany so i found a set of AW11 SC axles in the US.. not cheap either but it was the right decision, the outer joints even fit the AT200 hub i just had to fit ABS rings on them ... then i had the get some spacers for the inner joints made since the axles where a bit to short but it worked perfect in the end.
Other things i changed are the PCV catch can and the air filter housing, i was trying to fit a filter as big as possible and ended with a Lexus ISF filter.
I got some new gauge faces made to fit the engine better, rev limiter is set at 8100rpm.
Next step this year is a new intake manifold with slightly shorter runners with bigger diameter and a much bigger plenum.
And iīm building a new short block since the engine is blowing gas in the cooling system, at first i thought itīs the old cracked head so i build a new one last winter... but that didnīt fix the problem, even ARP head studs werenīt enough till i noticed that the deck was not flat.
I wasnīt on a dyno yet but the engine should make about 400-420bhp, maybe 340-350whp.
im glad its still running great and that you are improving it even more!!
Dude you are an inspiration
This whole project is amazing
ya definitely my favorite ST build.
so your using the 91-94 corolla GTZ transmission. i know the 1st generation scion tc has a e350 and that the shifts feel more secure than an s54.
have you any videos of your car on track?
This is nuts.
I love it.
amazing! love this build!
Fantastic. Good to see you are still active. I miss my 7A.
Damn. That's awesome.
New year, new turbo... .. i initially wanted to get rid of the totaly useless internal wastegate of the GTX, it just canīt flow enough to be able to control the turbo, so i was going to replace the T28 exhaust housing with a nice v-band housing but since this is somewhat pricy i decided to spend a little more on a completely different turbo that already comes with a v-band housing and has more potential. I decided to go with a G30-660 AR.61 in combination with a Tial MV-R ... maybe a little overkill on the wastegate side but itīs perfect to reduce boost in lower gears.
Before i swapped the turbo i went to a dyno with the GTX and made a little over 400whp and 350ft/lbs @ about 28psi.
G30-660 vs GTX2867R GenII, the G30 is a really compact unit
Fitting the G30 to the engine was quite easy, i just cut off the T25 flange from the header, put the v-band flange in the same position and everything looked perfect, even the inlet fit without any modification, i just had to rebuild the oil and water lines.
The wastegate on the other hand took some time.... but i found a nice position and iīm really happy how it worked out.
The G30 of course spools a little bit later then the GTX, even with the small 0.61 exhaust housing, but when itīs at about 15-16psi it almost immediately jumps to 26-28psi wich feels really funny
The swap was definitely worth the money, at last iīm able to control the boost without crazy overboosts, the car feels way better with this setup. I use a 4port Mac valve for boost control which works amazing, the wastegate is running a 7 psi spring so i have plenty control in first and second gear.
a fantastic project , how did you install the coils on plug ?? what material are needed
whaooo good project, you have a diagram to put the bosch p65 coils and what material is needed
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)