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> Power window lost home?, Reliably stops 1.5" from top
post Jan 10, 2017 - 5:42 PM
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HectortheRican



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Can this happen, guys?

The driver side window otherwise works fine. It's not off its track. It rolls all the way down and almost all the way back up reliably - it just stops 1.5" from the top.
Could the motor have lost its 'zero' somehow?

Edit: At it's final level, 1.5" away from the top, it behaves exactly like it would if it were all the way up. Upon toggling the switch up, it makes no effort to move. Not sluggish or anything.

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Jan 10, 2017 - 10:43 PM


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post Jan 10, 2017 - 6:34 PM
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Box



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The motor cable could be in a kink.


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post Jan 10, 2017 - 9:38 PM
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HectortheRican



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QUOTE (Box @ Jan 10, 2017 - 4:34 PM) *
The motor cable could be in a kink.


I got the door panel off and tried pulling/tugging on the cable while moving the window up with the control. It wouldn't really move up.


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post Jan 11, 2017 - 12:34 AM
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Box



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I want to say this is what mine did before the cable snapped, might be able to grab on the glass and pull it up while operating the motor to get it back up all the way to hold you until you find a replacement. My guess is the cable is binding at the end of travel which is posing enough resistance so that the motor shuts off. That or it's binding in the regulator or the motor isn't getting full voltage for some reason.


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post Jan 11, 2017 - 10:19 AM
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cheela



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might have to pull it out and check the drive gear or drive rollers. I think they're plastic and may have become brittle and broken a tooth or so which would explain why they still work but just not that a certain point where the tooth/teeth are missing?


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post Jan 11, 2017 - 10:43 AM
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I think you need to disassemble the door. There has to be seen.


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post Jan 11, 2017 - 3:41 PM
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HectortheRican



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QUOTE (Box @ Jan 10, 2017 - 10:34 PM) *
I want to say this is what mine did before the cable snapped, might be able to grab on the glass and pull it up while operating the motor to get it back up all the way to hold you until you find a replacement. My guess is the cable is binding at the end of travel which is posing enough resistance so that the motor shuts off. That or it's binding in the regulator or the motor isn't getting full voltage for some reason.



QUOTE (cheela @ Jan 11, 2017 - 8:19 AM) *
might have to pull it out and check the drive gear or drive rollers. I think they're plastic and may have become brittle and broken a tooth or so which would explain why they still work but just not that a certain point where the tooth/teeth are missing?


I've never pulled apart the inside of the door panel - never had to mess with it. Is there an easier way to remove the window hardware? Or do I just have to work blind in those small crevices? Upon removal of the track and/or motor, how do I restrain the window?


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post Jan 11, 2017 - 4:03 PM
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Box



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The glass unbolts from the regulator so you can pull it out and place it in the backseat or somewhere else safe, then pulling the regulator and motor is a contortion act like it is with every car but I seem to recall the Celica wasn't so bad.


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post Jan 14, 2017 - 11:17 PM
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Zimluura



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Had a similar problem recently.
For me the driver side would only come down about 4 inches before stopping.

The cable had gotten frayed and was a big tangle, when the roller hit the tangled part of the cable it would stop. Bought a new window regulator with motor on ebay for 100usd. Installed it with a friend (who was once a pro auto mechanic) took an hour or two. Then bought him dinner.

Some difficulties we encountered:
* the push rivets that secure the inside panel to the door, push the center inward, then pry the outer part out (we broke 2 or 3 of them before realizing)
* the big plastic film moisture barrier, it was stuck in with some kind of gasket sealer for me. Lamely pushed it back into position afterwards.
* with a big tangled cable binding up window operation we were less able to get the window into a position where it's easy to remove the bolts that hold it in. If you're having the same problem you might need to contort your hand in order to feel around inside there.

Here's a link that helped us out.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=35218

edit: spelling

This post has been edited by Zimluura: Jan 14, 2017 - 11:18 PM
post Jan 15, 2017 - 8:44 PM
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Bitter

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Frost King FV516 makes a good replacement vapor barrier and has some sound blocking/heat blocking properties. You can peel and stick it multiple times and it stays stuck over a very wide temperature range, I've been using it to seal my door panels for a couple years. It seals out some road noise, seals out drafts really well (good if you're in a cold climate), adds R3 insulation (good for rejecting solar gain/keeping heat in the car), and can seal the door cavity to help isolate the speaker from it's back wave or whatever and make them sound better.


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post Jan 16, 2017 - 12:44 PM
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HectortheRican



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QUOTE (Box @ Jan 11, 2017 - 2:03 PM) *
The glass unbolts from the regulator so you can pull it out and place it in the backseat or somewhere else safe, then pulling the regulator and motor is a contortion act like it is with every car but I seem to recall the Celica wasn't so bad.



QUOTE (Zimluura @ Jan 14, 2017 - 9:17 PM) *
Had a similar problem recently.
For me the driver side would only come down about 4 inches before stopping.

The cable had gotten frayed and was a big tangle, when the roller hit the tangled part of the cable it would stop. Bought a new window regulator with motor on ebay for 100usd. Installed it with a friend (who was once a pro auto mechanic) took an hour or two. Then bought him dinner.

Some difficulties we encountered:
* the push rivets that secure the inside panel to the door, push the center inward, then pry the outer part out (we broke 2 or 3 of them before realizing)
* the big plastic film moisture barrier, it was stuck in with some kind of gasket sealer for me. Lamely pushed it back into position afterwards.
* with a big tangled cable binding up window operation we were less able to get the window into a position where it's easy to remove the bolts that hold it in. If you're having the same problem you might need to contort your hand in order to feel around inside there.

Here's a link that helped us out.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=35218

edit: spelling


Thanks guys, excellent advice. I'll hopefully get on it by the end of the week. I'm busy house-hunting, so this couldn't have worse timing. Also, the one of the 10 times per year it rains in ABQ happened to be yesterday. I sealed the crack with a towel, but it got extremely humid in the car... so much so that the vinyl softened up a bit and is slightly coming off in my hands.

Would you recommend trying to replace only the regulator and potentially wasting time if the motor is bad? Or just doing the whole assy.

Here is another detail I left out. Before this happened, under normal operation (rolling down), the window would hop down very slightly (to about the same level it is currently maxed at) then would resume normal operation all the way down. It would not hop on the way up. Do you think this was a sign that the regulator was going out? It had that slight hope for a few years.


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post Jan 16, 2017 - 10:37 PM
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Zimluura



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Hypothetically, if the motor is running reliably.

If I understand you: when you try to summon its power it responds, but only for 1.5 inches each way. If that's the case, then I would guess the motor is ok. Nippon Denso = quality.

...but there are almost always complications...
The cable is wrapped around a wheel on the motor, and that could be tricky to sort out on the new one. Perhaps if you video the old one's disassembly, it could be reasonable to reassemble everything properly.

...and...
Your time, as a creative problem solver, is valuable.

...So...
I'd go ahead and get the whole assembly if you can swing the fiscal burden. Then you can separate the old one and have a spare denso motor ready to go if that part craps out. Also it's possible that you have a different problem than I did, In which case maybe it's more internal than mine was to sort out.



ebay celica window regulator
Good hunting!

[edit] to clean up spelling, punctuation and try make things more clear.

Also, thanks Bitter for the Frost King FV516 tip. Gotta try that out.

This post has been edited by Zimluura: Jan 17, 2017 - 12:38 PM
post Jan 17, 2017 - 6:07 PM
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HectortheRican



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QUOTE (Zimluura @ Jan 16, 2017 - 8:37 PM) *
If I understand you: when you try to summon its power it responds, but only for 1.5 inches each way. If that's the case, then I would guess the motor is ok. Nippon Denso = quality.


Close, the window rolls all the way down, but stops 1.5" away from the top of its track. So I get full downward movement and almost full upward movement. That's why I thought the motor might be ok. Thanks for the eBay link!


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post Jan 17, 2017 - 6:33 PM
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Zimluura



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QUOTE (HectortheRican @ Jan 17, 2017 - 6:07 PM) *
Close, the window rolls all the way down, but stops 1.5" away from the top of its track. So I get full downward movement and almost full upward movement. That's why I thought the motor might be ok. Thanks for the eBay link!


I gotcha. A frayed cable binding in a roller (like I had) could still explain that. I'd still think to go for the whole assembly. That way, when you take the door interior panel off you can swap the whole assembly in and not have to worry about transplanting the motor. You'll still save money, probably a bunch, by doing it yourself.
post Jan 18, 2017 - 2:42 AM
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HectortheRican



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Well I ordered a used (but tested) regulator/motor assembly and it should hopefully arrive by Fri or Sat. I'll have an update for you all then, as far as what went wrong with mine.

Just to rant, ~$400 for a new regulator/motor assembly for a 21yo car is just absurd. The regulator sub-assy is ~$100...


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post Jan 18, 2017 - 9:33 AM
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Box



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Yeah when mine went out a few years ago it was like that, near impossible to find and pricey.


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