so, thats my celica, 1994 gts from canada, this car go in the road every day in the snow or anything, it got 280 000km 3sgte engine 103 000km
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modification done: vis xtreme front bumper, gt4 hood, gt4 rear block install, lhd hood lach, clear turn, (taking out the orange inside and make it clear) angel eye whit bi-xenon projector, hid low beam 6000k, side skirt from 90-93 celica body kit, (i cut it) blue interior led in dash and cluster, recaro mr2 turbo seat, and paint job soon
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and for the shifter
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keep it up...
tell me more about your projector bi xenon projector lights
the snow turning into water this morning...
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where is my rear wing ??
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should i paint my car or keep this paint and fix it ^^ what do u think ?
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today new steering wheel
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you dont have a crash bar installed?..
i dont get many crash like you loool ! i will modify my crash bar soon i paint my car, i will have to cut it slim
im gunna laugh at you when you do now.
first one is because i lost control in a snow storm, second one is because i was avoiding something in a construction zone.
back on topic, I gotcha and that's a good idea.
relocation of the cruise control after change to gt4 steering wheel...
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this is the plug for airbag and cruise control, i had to burn it to reconnect the cable, cause its was 3-4 meter long ,roll inside the steering....there is enought room to put the cruise control there, but fit tight
i love my car more and more....whitout gt4 steering
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whit new steering
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made up my mind 4 or at worst 5 days.,,,,
You won't be able to do it in 3 days if your doing it by yourself. If you shooting for under 300 hp I'd stick with the s54. You need a s54 pressure plate, and either a s54 disk or a s54 splined 3sgte disk(dr tweak once said there is s very small difference and he uses s54 everything because of the cost). As for the fuel pump yes I'll need to upgrade,to either a gt4 pump or a walbro.
Look in the forced induction sticky area,there are quite a few 3sgte related topics.
problem solved
Dude...you have to do LOTS and LOTS of research. There is no one magical thread that tells you step by step what to do throughout an ENTIRE swap.
But if you search stickies, you will find many very informative and helpful threads and gain the knowledge to take on the job. You can't just go into something because you know it works and has been done, you have to know how to do it.
im going whit the 5s transmission 3sgte pressure plate and disk, 5sfe clutch ,
do MOAR research!!!!!!!
you've been on here for 2 months, you need to research. i'm going to be researching over a period of 4 years (not needed though) but that's how long I'll be in college. and no, 3 days is not possibly for a one man crew, probably not even a 2 or 3 man crew unless they really know what they are doing. do not jump the gun because you will mess something up.
3sgte sooon
i had change a supra 88 engine by my self 8 years ago took 6 month, so i learn... and i will do it in 3 day, whitout mistake and maybe i will do a threat how to put 3sgte the easy way on the gt, i will do thew wiring harnees begfore the swap, andd i already found all the wiring diagram from 5sfe to 3sgte 3th gen, i let you know how it gonna be
You have now rendered the last sentence in my last post untrue :\. What engine did you put in the mk3?Because unless its a jz engine its plug and play and a MUCH easier swap than a 3sgte swap. Are you going to be swapping alone or will you have other people helping you out? If your doing it alone look at at LEAST 4 solid days of swapping(if you know exactly what your doing and have 0 gremlins, both of which will not be true.)
i will let u all know of my progress, all help is very appreciated , thanks
dude, its awesome you have a thread to show your progress and you want to swap and do allt hat cool stuff to your 6gc but seriously. do research. alot of it. talk to members who have swapped but use real legit questions. and look at build threads on 3sgte's.
lmao^
but searchsearchsearchsearchsearch!
alright then, i guess ill take your word for it....
lots and lots of very usefull info there http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/Technical.htm all about all modificatrion
I really wish there was a facepalm expression on here. Your not going to do it in 3 days with no gremlins ext, Just the wiring if you do it yourself will take a day.
Its cool that you love your car, made a progression thread, showed you mods which are neat and tasteful to say the least. But your not going to swap in 3 days. Heres basic math if your doing it alone
Day 1 - Pull old engine
Day 2 - do wiring, and maybe run new harness
Day 3 - Replace old worn out parts, broken parts, missing parts ext.
Day 4 - Put in engine, connect harness, exhaust, ext.
Day 5 - Try and start car and search for the gremlins that are going to be there.
Day 6 - get on here and ask whats wrong.
Thats just basic and thats if your spending your entire day doing it.
I know you said youve found everything you needed to know, but you havnt. you cant compare a supra swap to a celica swap. Goodluck and I'll be watching and counting the days.
i just find a 4th gen 3sgte , its only 1500$ , if someone know if the transmission of my 5s will fit like it fit the 3th gen 3sgte, ^?
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its ST215 GT-T
You can find a 3rd gen 3sgte for the same price.
It's hard to find maintenance parts (well parts in general) for the 4th Gen or so I've heard.
Dont buy from them or tiger japanese... word of advice.
The st215 3sgte in our cars is not a very smart move compared to the 3rd gen. Member _jim_ can ship a FULL 3rd gen 3sgte swap to you for $2100. And saying the 4th gen is 1500(shipped??) and you HAVE to have the harness done by a professional, you will NOT, i repeat, you will NOT be able to do that harness conversion yourself. Your looking at 2100$ alone right there.
Heres the 3sgte generation breakdowns:
1st gen-Useless, was in the st165 rally celica but compared to the other gens its useless
2nd gen- ST185 rally 5th gen celica-Different turbo and various parts,wiring is much harder than the 3rd gen, but all costs on this engine are cheaper(engine,parts,ect) with minimal power lose.
3rd gen-st205 6gc celica-Literally 6 wires to splice,highest HP #s for less about of money, documented swaps to hell and back
4th gen-st215 CADILINA-wiring NIGHTMARE,initial HP #s same as 3rd gen but MANY parts need upgraded to get the hp #s up. The wiring has never been documented because it is incredibly hard
If you'd like more in detail differences between the engines i know there's quite a few in depth replies about it. But yes all the 2nd,3rd and 4th (and possibly the 1st) are all physically the same the the mounts/tranny are the same.
I agree with the tiger imports, i've never heard a 100% good story come out of they're transactions.
1.) You put projectors behind frosted lenses in your headlights. You have COMPLETELY defied the purpose of both projector headlights AND frosted lenses. Hope you have night vision because you effectively have no high beams at all.
2.) I saw a music video once. Did I become Jimi Hendrix? Just because you've read a thread about the 3S swap doesn't mean you can do the 3S swap. So, unless you start heeding the advice from those of us who actually HAVE done the research, this project will come to a grinding halt. You'll mess your car up beyond repair and then you'll have to sell a Celica that doesn't run because it has no motor.
i get the engine here in mtl, i found almost 10 3sgte 3th gen here in montreal now, and the best deal i got they sell me the engine whit all and all the clutch assembly but whitout the tranny for 1400$ in very good shape, if i have the money i buy it today, and pick it up today !!! i hav e found 2 engine 2th gen 3sgte 1 for 800 and 1 for 900$....whitout tranny, just search jdm montreal , u have live listing on what they have in staock, no need shipping for me lol
High beams are not made to use when other ppl are around, they are made to be used when your alone with no other cars(or lights) around, so you can see the deer (or moose where you are) before you hit them.
Goodluck with your swap and ill be awaiting your millions of questions and rants about how we didnt tell you so..
The lowest priced 3rd gen on jdm montreal is $2,000. If you were smart you would buy this:
http://www.jdm-online.com/jdm-engines/toyota-engines/3sgte-series/jdm-toyota-celica-st205-3sgte-complete-front-clip-94.html
If you pay 1500 for that your crazy...... seriously by all means dont buy from that company or tiger.... there always the cheapest, they dont take care of there engines, ext ext ext..... there that cheap bc there not taken care of. Buy from someone or some respectable company.
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this one is 1500$,its from JDM NAGOYA they have it in stock in montreaL, they will sold it to me whitout tranny, for 1400$ , here is the spec
Description
Used 94-97 JDM Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205 3SGTE 245HP Engine Swap.
Motor, 5 Speed AWD Transmission, Un-Cut Wiring Harness and ECU.
The approximate mileage on this engine/transmission is between 25K-35K miles.
The motor/transmission comes with the following:
•Complete Motor Block and Head
•5 Speed Manual Transmission AWD----i dont buy it (but they let me the clutch assembly)
•Un-Cut Engine Wiring Harness
•Engine Control Unit (ECU)
•Igniter Chip
•Fuse Box
•Intake Manifold
•Exhaust Manifold
•Turbo Charger
•Turbo Manifold
•Top Mount Intercooler
•Injectors
•Fuel Rail
•Distributor
•Power Steering Pump
•A/C Compressor
•Alternator
•Clutch Assembly (Clutch Disc, Flywheel, Pressure Plate)
•Stainless Steel Down Pipe
•Un-Cut Cable Shifter
•Everything shown in pictures
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there is total cost i spend on my car since i got it, just let u know all that is my 5th celica , i did have 1987 gts , one 1990 gt red, one 1990 gts blue, one gts black 1991, and my 1994 gts,
1300$ the caR
APPROX 200$ ON THE BODY (RUST ON THE rocker each side, )
floor is 100% cleaN (DUE TO OIL LEAK LOL )
NEW FRONT DISK AND BRAKE ALREADY ON
new boot (100$)
steering !))100$
seat recaro 180$
refurnish seat stuff (120$
rear wing block 100$
hood gt4 300$
front vis gt4 thunder 520$ (shipping and c ustomer bull**** price,,,original for 188$)
new tire
new shifter knob short shifter
repair antenna fix
and fix a llot of thing on engine (tune up) to make it run 100% good (trhottle etc)
had change the cover valve gasket 27$
had change the seal behind the timing belt (big big job) 30$
new wiper 60$
new exhaust (all the systhem)
change fuel line (rust on it) 60$
chANGE BRAKE LINE(RUST) they broke on road) 40$
and lots more to come whit the 3sgte soooon ,
new spak polug cable 90$
bi xenon angel 170$ (deal)
hid 150$
blue led dash+led int 60$
flasher 96+ 30$
blue led flasher 15$
time on car ......priceless !!
that W2A in the picture you posted looks f*cked.
have fun getting a new one for a couple hundred.
snowy day....
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todaY's works, took me 1 hours
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total cost 16,50$
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sorry for the bad quelity of picture ,
dude are you typing all of this from a cell phone? or have you misplaced your "del" or "backspace" keys?
its 3RD gen, not 3th gen.
quality not quelity
replacing the oil seal is not nearly as big a job as a motor swap.
how did an OIL leak (literally like the dirtiest thing to clean, ever) give you a clean floor?
that rear bumper is ... yea
and you didn't need them to send you the entire steering column for only a steering wheel. they detach.
x2 on the bi-xenon/HID upgrade you did with your original headlight glass
and there is NO-way you'll swap that quick. and if you say so, then prove it. i've been working on my 2nd gen 3sgte swap for a year and its still not done because of alll kinds of random issues that popped up. and my motor was already fully built, not a "good one" picked from 1000's imported from japan.
but good luck to ya, seriously.
I really want to see this modified front bumper to a rear bumper. Would be mad fun driving in reverse.
Looks like everyones hating on you for looking into getting boosted, haha jealous much?
The W2A in that pic is fine, those scratches ontop are just on the sticker. you can peel the sticker off and order a new one for a couple bucks, no need to replace the whole thing.
workin on seat , after changing my mind, i will put leather...
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i just found my swap !
i had 2 choices:
1- 3sgte st205 engine whit all wiring and stuff
mr2 lsd transmission rebuilt never run whit inner mr2 shaft and outter celica shaft
3" exhaust custom
st205 radiator
brand new walbro fuel pump 255lph
2000 $
2-3sgte st205 engine whit all wiring and stuff
original 5sfe trasmission already hybrid clutch
3" exhaust custom
st205 radiator
brand new walbro fuel pump 255lph
1400$
because i dont have enough money and dont want spend too much in the swap, i will go whit choices number 2, soon i start the project i will put a progress for u all can see if i can do it in 3 day, its not that much complex, after the wiring extend done..
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to be continued...
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to be continued....
hey ! im just joking
last week another bad driver push the brake and slide on me, i had to go between 2 car to avoid collision, but the space was so thin that my passaenger mirror broke up, i was wondering if i can fix it....
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finnaly not that bad
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finnally, i will receive my 3sgte and stuff in 7 days !
the one who sell it to me had never installed it since he buy the front clip last summer, but he did start the engine and he say its all fine,
and i really wonder what the exhaust gonna look in my car because he said that the rear of it pass in the exterior of the rear arm..... its that too low ?
its 3" custom
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Are you f*cking 4 years old?
question plz, since the ecu is in middle of the car in the console, should it be easyer to just do one hole in the firewall to pass the wiring harness however than extend it ?
what ever you feel more comfortable with. I'd rather extend the wiring rather than cut another hole in the firewall
3sgte for sunday...... i just talk to my good friend who gonna sell me the stuff, he s gonna let me the mr2 tranny brand new rebuilt whit mr2 and st185 shaft, WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ! FOR 400$ MORE !!!! thanks to toyota11 [url="http://toyota11.monchar.com/"]http://toyota11.monchar.com/[/url
.......
........finally, i will not put the mr2 transmission, reason is:
-need st205 support for transmission (i dont have)
-need st205 cable (dont have)
-need new cluster gauge to fit
-and the worst, is that transmission, toyota11 say to me in 5th gears he goes 120km/h at like 4000 /4200 rpm !!
even if the the e153 have better clutch, and bigger shaft, and lsd, i think i will save myself from a lot of trouble ,
i will buy a performance clucht for s54,
what is yours suggestion , what kind of clutch is the best,? i dont want to go more than 300hp in the future .
im pretty sure the e153 has taller gears
i got the beast !
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the engine is in very good condition, it is stunning
the radiator is brand new
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one piece exhaust , 3inch, whit 3inch downpipe i need modified ( i have all the connection, just need weld
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totally brand new rebuilt mr2 tranny, whit st185 outter mr2 inner and spacer
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walbro fuel pump
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l
ho yeah and 2 custom mount for the tranny came whit it, and there is some better pic, (of my dirty car)
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and for the last time, the 2.2l
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fitment look ok...but you still got small gaps in the headlamp bottom portion and the top of the nose.
No two 3S-GTE motors are the same, but depending on the boost level you're running and the condition of the motor & turbo internally, you could achieve anywhere from 180hp to 300hp at the treads
today i have put the 3" exhaust and apexi muffler i got. i was on the go to put the 3sgte next week, so i wanted to do some job before i start the swap, cauze im using the car now. so after i fit the exhaust,there was a gap between manifold and exhaust on the stock 2.2l engine like 7 inch approx, i had 2 old exhaust , so i cut the tip that connect to manifold on the 2 exhaust, joined together and that make the missing link needed, til next week (i have 3" downpipe to custom it to fit the one from the st185 i think , custom one...) so, it small mouth whit big big ass lol, the sound is really like it got base sound , at 3k rpm its too loud, at 4k rpm its the best sound i ever heard, no base at 4k, am asking myself if i need another resonator or change the big big apexi muffler , anyway, everybody looked at my caR today (i work on the delivery whit it) and 3 wanted to race, bmw 2011, volvo 06-07 modified turbo , and some others....oooo man i need my engine in !!!! i was just not ready for the challenge lol. and at the little store someone say to me, hey{ u have a nice car, what is it ? and he was really impress by it, he ask to check it out and the store keeper want to check it too lol, and he show me is car on is i-phone, he did have a 2007 porsche twin turbo 3.8 v6, i was happy to know when u have a porsche like this u still have interest in a 1994 celica lol. but bad news anyway, when i changed my exhaust i saw my cross member is failing at the left tab, the tab ok but the cross member is crack there. and i hear knock tok tlok not tok when i turn left at certain speed, **** !i need new cross member before the swap......
picture of my new muffler , i just put a cylinder rubber inside the tip to make less base sound , it should be half inch smaller,
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i just got brand new front cross member suspension assembly/k pic tommorow
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i just start my swap yesterday at 8:00h pm. so my mom boyfriend just finish installing his big car lift in the garage and im the first one working on it i stoped at 1am , so i just need to unplug ecu and unbolt the 4 mount, everything else is done, i hope finish it before thuesday... i will put pic later, thanks to all 6gc member for ALL the info and to make this project possible
second day,. i worked all day long ,
starting by onbolt the engine and tranny mount and pull out the 5sfe
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my old front crossmember
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the crack in the side
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the new one
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engine bolt in
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now i had some problem since the bolt on the reart mount are striped so no rear mount for now
when i move the shifter its weird, but it seem to work (gt cable)
i have choose to extend the wiring engine to the computer, i will do that tommorow
i have some question, plz can someone answer it ?
those should be easy to anwser for any who did the swap
so
question#1 where does this fuel line goes ?
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question#2 where u plug this plastic bottle (the bottom of it)
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question #3 where do i plug that line ?
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question #4 how u setup this to this to this ?? plz
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question #5 where is the plug for this (lead prestone to the chargercooler) smic)
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question# 6
where does that one goes ?
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questin #7 and finally this one , i dont know where it goes ?
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question#8 where this 2 plus goes ??
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thank for any help
all nproblem fixed,
thanks for help, im waiting tonight my friend will extend my wiring, everything is on place
THANKS to pressure2 , he anwser it all in turbo forum
today i just finish fixing everything, but when i tried to start the car , it does notting, no crank, i only have power to my light , someone else did had this problem before ? ?
it's called research man.
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i think the wiring is good
i will try this tommorow: from what i can tell with the wiring
the 205 starter relay runs its power through the 7.5a ST fuse where as on the 204 it gets directed through the 7.5a IGN fuse. I jumped that so now when i turn the key it opens the relay for the starter and the starter goes on.
so when you turn the key to the position that the car would normally run in the starter stays on? The other relay box that sits up near the rad holds the intercooler pump relay, fuel pump relay and dimmer relay. Also the fuses for the left and right high beams. What is the current problem? Because there is nothing in this box that should give you trouble with the starter circuit.
You can wire around it, I think... look at the diagrams and fake it. You will have to wire your fuel pump to recieve full voltage all the time (getting rid of the fuel pump resistor).
At this point, you should be able to start your car with the B+ and FP pins jumpered in the diagnostics connector in the engine bay.
850 hp pikes peaK celica 4x4 video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5WfSZBPosI&feature=related
im waiting for help before toutching that, i will created plug for water pump intercooler and intercooler and fuel bybass,
you're going to ruin your car man. get the wiring done by a professional because there is a decent amount that you have to change on it.
btw, 3 day swap my a$$ haha
the problem was bad connection of positive to the starter (baddly connected on the starter) now my starting circuit working fine,
the problem is i think i missed some ground or something cause the ground wire on the engine to front body just fried totally burn when i put the ignition to on position, at the same time my light go low
now all working fine, but before i try start my car again, i wanna find where it goes wrong whit the ground...maybe i missed one to firewall
Your either missing a ground or the grounds are not good enough.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK2witvI_UY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8gJe-oUV0
1994 and 1995 celica commercial
I still don't understand where you got the idea to rip apart the loom and twist wires together and tape them up before bothering to read pinouts, before checking grounds, before securing connections
Especially a whole bunch of wires at a time.
Seriously man what were you thinking?
I told you those wires you made to the starter motor were fuct up and what to check and jump and circuit test etc but you several times insisted on playing with your headlights instead. Did you not realise those guides were written unassuming of someone diving into the deep end with an engine swap and totally butchering the new loom.
If you can afford to pay for these parts, can you atleast pay someone with half a brain to correct your mistakes?
ho yeah i took off the wire to the starter motor u talked about, it was just for one try
i have the original hooked up and the connectivity is good
changing rubber on st185 shaft
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dude, you keeping post sh!t about needing help and why your car wont start, well its because your wiring is majorly f*cked! there are some things in a swap you cannot do by yourself, and one of those is the wiring. it doesnt matter how big your grounds are because if you're frying the ground wires, then there is something messed up with the wiring.
i have send my front axle (mr2 inner st185 outter ) for a rebuilt because i had hard time to put it back together
i just receive it and i got one rubber replaced , and all ball beaRING replaced whit biggger ball, cause the mecanic guy say its loose and a little bit worn so it can came out the shaft while driving,
cost of rebuilt 120$
There's a bit of a knack to putting CV's back together. Took me an hour to do my first one, 5min for the second, it's like one of those wooden puzzles that you need to slide together in the right order.
How much bigger were the new balls? Wouldn't want it to get hot and bind, I've seen a ball push right through the housing, made a real mess.
woooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ITS STARTED !! RIGHT ON WHIT THE fuel pump bypass, sound GOOD!!!!!!! its the best day of my life , i rev it a little, thank to all 6gc for support my project
i try fix error 54 , but i dont have front clip or inc plug,
i search all over the web for 2 day now and i cant find a way to avoid it but only to imitate the original circuit whit resistor and everithing
i cant brige the sensor for water level since i dont have the plug for the pump
someone have a way to do it or a link ?
st205 into 94 gts
can u find the wires at all? just 2 wires go from the sensor, one goes to ecu, one finds its way to ground somewhere in the loom, i think it branches off the loom near the IAT wires
the factory setup is the best, running the water pump full time prolongs heatsoak, aswell as wears the pump out faster. also if the pump fails your ecu wont know to take safety precautions to prevent detonation and overheating until it's too late.
trust me on this one, theres 100% cons and 0% pros in running the pump full time, if you think you're going to get cooling faster what you're actually doing is spreading engine heat through all of the water since its not being cooled when the cars stationary, so that when you start to take off it will take longer as it has to cool ALL of the water, not just what happens to be sitting above the engine at the time.
and if that doesn't deter you, then the quick answer to your question is No, the ecu will throw a code without the intercooler pump
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/code54elimination.gif/
im trying to fool the cpu to avoid code 54, in this shema, (this is the plug shema for water inc pump)
1- does someone knows what "E" mean ?
2- what mean the number on the relay?
3- can i go buy a custom relay or create one or its useless (85-87-86-30)?
new stuff !!
my new intake is almost done
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btw , i think im going blue and yellow for engine part
1. e= earth
2. the numbers are the numbers on the pins of the particular relay they use in that diagram, i assume its an automotive relay of a certain amperage rating and just a single circuit breaker which will have pins labeled those numbers.
3. i think u can use any automotive relay (in that configuration in the diagram) thats 12 volts and has a single circuit breaker, cant see any reason why not.
but you really should wire it in like stock, even if you have to cut the connector off the water pump and use an aftermarket connector, it's just so much better for your ecu to know whats going on so it can protect itself. trust me i just had my engine overheat and blew the seals in my turbo so i bought a new turbo because the one i had wasnt worth rebuilding
i saw deluzion plumb back the bov in the intake just before the turbo, but the original is plumb back in the filter,
when u release the gas pedal, and the bov release the extra pressure, does it better to plumb it back where the filter is and not near the turbo ?
since when you release the pedal, u dont need pressure, and your engine need to release the extra pressure, maybe ist not good to plumb back direct in turbo...
if you see the HKS, Blitz, Apex'i & etc kits while they do place the bov near the filter, it's only to retain the stock bov pipe for a true bolt in kit and what you'll notice is that it's aimed towards the turbo instead of the filter like this
the idea of aiming towards the turbo is to keep it spinning, and give it enough air to give you better response when you quickly reapply throttle. Everything will equal out so if one end becomes a high pressure zone, air will quickly escape to the low pressure zone at the other end. Thats where it makes the tututushhhhh sound if you dont get back on the throttle, otherwise theres hardly any bov sound at all because the turbo reuses the air.
Naturally theres always a very slight amount of compressor surge, it's normal and this is no different. The dangerous one is where a full amount of boost at high revs backs up against the compressor with no BOV at all
thank for reply deluzionzzss
im outta myself, about 4 time now my front hybrid axle slide out while i put them on (the ball bearing assembly slip out of socket in inner shatf).. i read all the trhead and i didnt find people having trooble instaling it, i took out all the spendel and took off the suspension, fix it back together, everithing seems fine, and then at thje end it pop out, whats wrong, i got st185 shatf outter mr2 inner and mr2 lsd tranny, is that normal
im about to put back my s54 and my super cool easy install axle for s54 ****ty
just one little update,
intake installed,
mobil 1 oil and filter in
new fuel filter, http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/827/image240c.jpg/
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i just need to put one more axle on and
fix the leak at lower fuel filter connection (new filter, still leak there)
and i still need to do new socket for the bolt of the rear transmission mount(stripped)
need by two inch my exhaust longer to fit the downpipe,
need fix the leak of power steering (didnt had time to check it, maybe seal of plug)
put my new battery
and im ready to go, still , the shifter whit gt cable whit mr2 lsd is kinda crap... maybe some spacer where it connect to transmission?)
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hey ! i just buy new samsung 1080p so i can bring clear nice picture now, here some update
boots front axles fix !!
i move the car for the first time today try to shift and its kinda ..good but * small* shiftting movement due to gt cable
but all gear get in not that hard !
fuel leak fix, for now, let say i didnt put teflon fuel resistant into connection....
water inc pump plug and fix
start to put inside console of car back on , but i will leave the back of the car empty , no seat nothing
i know ididnt put much nice stuff on it , but it was not my intention, at first and some ppl car engine built is a lot nicer, in fact i dont very have much money, i spend all did i had ,on my car since 6 month ago, and it was the only way for me to reach this goal,
here are the result for now after 4000$ of modification, repair, fix, gremlin, (this include the repair on the 5sfe) on a 1300$ car
all job done by myself
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my boost gauge tap point
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i broke my front upper grill to open the hood since the cord there just broke and the wind close my hood lolol, i will modify that part of the bumper anyway, may cut the original front gt4 grill and to fit the hood and stick it in the middle
Nice swap. But get a freaking gauge pod, lol.
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yesterday i did ride the 3sgte for the very first time, (the only 3gen 3sgte i ever seen installed in a car anyway)
had full of problem, but not that bad
water pump work whit inside switch (alone !)
fuel pump is b+ fp direct connect
have not finish the recirculation of intake
had my exhaust 3 time to the shop to make it fit, but i need to cut it again cause it not bolt easely to the downpipe
my power steering leaking at the pump connection (didnt had time to check it)
didnt had time to install the code54 solution
need to fix a lot of other little thing,
get my seat higher, get my axle fix again (the car is shaking and its knocking from the front after 2k rpm and when i press gas for power, but its not knocking when i get to 70 km/h and stay smooth on gas
its really not the same car, when i took it
it felt so beast that almost scare me, when u push the gas, its like your seat gonna take you to the sky, the only thing thing this car missing is some wing and i think it gonna fly....
good job bud. Nothing beats the satisfaction you did everything on your own
very nice, and what did you do to fix your rust, I have the same problem =(
Nice thankyou, I have agood amount of work to be done so this helps =)
st205 shifter cable needed
also, im gonna take my true first ride now, dont have the powert steering, but im gonna see what this engine have in the chest, code54 not solve wet, maybe later today, ho and exhaust is not bolt to downpipe, i need to cut again the exhaust to make it fix
had full of problem , but once again, not thnat bad
after running the engine a bit, i did try it one good shot, finnally
leak of the water pump (pump of engine) started after 5 min, there is a lot of water drip come from the seal of water pump
second, leak at the oil filter, where the plug for oil temp is, its a big leak im worried cauze ive had fix that and place seal and everithing nicely beforte bolt the oil filter, and the oil comming out is very dirty , even if i did clean the engine before whit new oil, now i will need to buy another mobil one for 50 $ ****ty, can'T drive it like that,
ftemperature water goes to 90*, boost gauge work really good, i saw my boost gauge get to 0.5 bar easily, but i dint check it enough, and i forgot to check my oil temp ,
engine temp just under the middle line,
front axle fix, works great !!
\d
shifter really bad, i cant put it in 2 , or really , really hard to put it in 2, 4 and reverse, even if i back up the shifter console, i need to trick it to get in those gear, 1 and 3 gear goeas in whit no problem, almost impossible to get the 2nd gear and reverrse,
when i get on the autoroute, i put it in 3 gears and i just try it too see the power, there was one new charger and and one new camaro, im pretty sure i scrared them lol, ITS POWERFULL!!!! THE 3sgte is one engine design for racing ... and its really do the job !the original bov sound crazy when nothing is plumb back !
3 free day left,
how hard it is to fix the water leak? , change the seal water pump ? i didnt search for that already...
here is some pics
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here you can see the what the big leak does
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2,4,R selection pushes the cable, 1,3,5 pulls the cable.
get the correct shifter cables so that 2,4,R make it all the way in
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i just get these st205 shifter cable today, 150$
ho and no more leak
my car wont start this morning,
there was 2 big vaccum hose, i took them out and put mini filter there, basically, its change nothing but filtered air
fisrt, it start right on like others time but get to 2000 rpm, something was wrong, i press the gas, its work and get back to 2000rpm,
so i was thinking something about the vaccum get wrong, the problem is i didnt touch anything else, i put back the old line whitout the mini filter (useless) to copy the old setup, came back in car and its barely starting, like dont have vaccum or gas somewhere and engine stop, i try start it back again , one little bip and now its only cranking and does nothing else, same as it was the fp stop working completely, problem is the fp working great and i can heard it a lot,
can someone help plz, i was about to take one ride today and do plenty of work at the garage, but the celica wont saw it that way today...
3sgte 3gen
"a bucket full of french fries next door ready too paddy field" You got me all in stitches
i can t get the lock in for the shifter cable on my mr2 lsd,
it wont go in, i tried all the way, but i cant manage have good tool in there, i will do some custom thiner lock for it tommow, or any suggestion ?
just a video of inside my car running, its was rainny and i cant rev up fast
http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb350/silverkrzy/?action=view¤t=HDV_0012.mp4
http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb350/silverkrzy/?action=view¤t=HDV_0012.mp4
i will put better video later, this just to just idea
http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb350/silverkrzy/?action=view¤t=HDV_0013.mp4
nice rear interior ,im glad u fix the problem ,keep up good work buddy
im gonna buy some redline mt 90 for my e153,
but i read that mix it whit mtl 50/50 to keep the shifting smooth for the winter,
so im gonna try 2 liter of redline mt90 and 2 liter mtl and see...
i drove my car today for 1 hour and half,
temperature look good, on the highway at 78
on the city 90 to 100
but i get at my home and wait a bit and close the car, and let the gauge open, and THE WATER TEMP GOES UP TO 108 !!
i need to start the car and it goes to 102, and i stop it and it goes back to 108,
is that normal , why my car getting hot like this after i close it,
and there was full pressure on the radiator hose, i cant press on it
and that was a really smooth ride
and btw, the shifting is the best i ever try in a car, its absolutely perfect passing to 4 to 5th gears is so short and easy lol
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fell so good to have the sunroof http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/810/sam0065v.jpg/
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I will give your car a few months to live. YOU DON'T BOOST WHEN LOW ON FUEL.
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working on the lower rockerhttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/sam0068wt.jpg/
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yeaahhttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/sam0074k.jpg/
and done until the new painthttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/864/sam0076fv.jpg/
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So instead of fixing your gas tank that wont hold over 6 gallons, you decided to 3sgte swap you car..Seems rational to me. If you run low on fuel, then attempt to boost, the engine will starve for gas.
i did some food delivery tonight whit my car , after all the work ive put on it, i did the real test
result = really fast and the tranny is awesome !
front axles working great
everything is hook up
the very first time i try it ....ist soo crazy !!!
its sound like a wildcat
i ive put one bolt in the strip hole in my tranny whit epoxy metal and that do the job for the rear mounth fix
the engine is really stiff !
response is good, shifting is superb fantastic whit mt-90 redline in the mr2 lsd tranny ......
is FUN TO drive its addictive ,
im worry when i stop the engine after riding its (i waity 1 or 2 minute sometimes) my water temp goes up to more 115 c* i start the car and its stabilized temp i stop it and temp goes up again,
i notice that using my inc water pump mannually does pratically nothing to the engine,
in fact when i ask for some power the temp goes up. there the pump should start whit the pedal press, because,
the inc cool the water for 6-8 sec to 4-7 c* cooler and after that ist useless to keep it running...so i just use it for extra cooling, that incooler systhem is really weak , i was thinking for some constant cooling, front inc on the way maybe...
btw the car is driving stiff and good no bizzare noise , i think its ready to drive
1 month, 3 week, real swap time
omg so that car is dark blue , it was so dirty all the time i thought its actually black lol
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dragon t-shirt lol
http://www.zazzle.ca/6gc_dragon_pullover_w_wings_dragon_back_tshirt-235981452995188121
btw im gonna buy some 17 or 18 inch rim tommorow cause everithing is close today,
the one i spot i dindt see the brand but it look like the fast rays one
pic tommorow
my starting circuit mess out again. came back fromn a ride, i start the key and nothing, so i just bypass direct to the selenoid switch whit one little push start button inside, start a lot quiker and the radio dindt close wjile i start the car
i have installed the circuit right out from the back of cpu to avoid check engine light, but the engine light still, i have to check all the error code now,
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sunset
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ho yeah , im gonna get my rim at one of the jdm place in mtl, i sawe one set for 600$ used whit almost new tire, no copie, original racing wheel... i cant wait
so i get to 7 jdm store before found this
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asking for 5x100 mm and they show me some, i took this one and bring it back home and they didnt fit.... they sold me wrong sized , i thing its 114 mm , is there a way to put them on, can i buy some special stud spacer or drill hole in it? cauze they are really great
18 inch mag whit 215-40- on ithttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/sam0099p.jpg/
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i have pay 900$ for it and i need wait tommorow to bring it back , sad ly
finnally got my hand on new wheel, in re4ality, that was the first one i saw before search all the town jdm shop....came back and took it home
that is not my first choice because i laki other bigger style but that rims looks good, and they came like brand new whitout any scratch or anything, its new, . and the tire are really good for lonhg time too, its potenza 215-45-17
mag is enkei RPF1
let me know what do you guys think of it http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/38/sam0103a.jpg/
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i dindt even wash it lol
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Really nice set of lightweight rims you have there!
Lol, Nice mags. Thats the first good looking thing I've seen from this thread so far
^word
tanks u guys , its about time she looks better lol ill try to take better pic soon
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can i say its a lot better in reallity than the picture, the contrast is bad cause too much light
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I'm all for "go before show", but your car could really benefit from some body work and paint!
But... I'd still rather an ugly 3SGTE power Celica rather than a pretty 5SFE powered Celica.
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is that normal that my fuel pump, (walbro 255) make different noise ? it change speed sometimes, and i can hear it more and sometimes its almost silent,
the thingh is im already bypass whit b+ connect to fuel pump, shoulb the same voltage ?? should keep the flow ?? why does it change speed randomly,
took off the r-wing for the last two day, and i think ill put it back soon...
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those are my favorite rims =); I'd say keep the spoiler on
what color is you car? the baltic blue metallic? looks like you used a spray, what color did you get for it?
yea but when your driving no one is really going to notice
Yeah Walbro's make noise. Hence the nickname whine-bro's.
didnt had time to wash it before, sadly,
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oh and yes,
i did ride it hard in the dirt, and its awesome !!
(just for one or two try)
start up press button pic
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Sweet check engine light...When do you plan to paint?
^ too much work, just pull the bulb
had 2 offer
eibach suspension full adjustable like new at jdm, 950$
kib spring and eibach shock adjustable, brand new in box pay 1000$ drop 1,8 or 2 inch, ask 600, deal for 500, near my home,
i pass away, dont wanna drop....
saddly, im not in racing , but im more in dirt racing, ill kkep it high
Thats a horrible gearknob, how do you put up with that?
fixed rear suspension today
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ho yeah here u can see the tire i ride, it stick to the road like i never seen before, never slip , never, under hard driving, and under the rain i dindt slip one time driving it fast, its sticky sticky stickies !!
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rust under left rear fender, thsi is a progress thread, so, lets show it all
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wow that frame is gonna rust out and be extremely unsafe to drive, especially with the 3s power twisting that body up.
No Doubt!!
That's scary, I would not feel safe in that car..
its not as bad as it look like
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no, it is as bad as it looks. all of that may not be rotted through, but it is rusting out inside of itself and then it will break.
it's bad.
If it's rotting there I have a good idea of the many other spots it's rusting out.
I had a rust filled ST. I saw the rust progression in that car go from just a little rust and then became dangerous to drive. Seeing the rot in your pics, I give the car less than a year before the brake lines and front/rear subframes are toast.
I could be wrong though.
and off roading with that rot prob isnt the best idea either.. id def try and go through the car and get rid and patch up as much rot as you can
Why would you even waste the time to do a swap in this car..
you can clearly heard the noise of my axle when accelerating here,
i dont know what it is,
but i know its my engine moving created that sound.
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at 1:19 min
take a needle gun, and run it across important frame sections. you will see how much rust is there as the needle gun will destroy rust, but leave healthy steel unaffected
i just find this clutch for 50$,
i did have the old otiginal clutch but it running good (3sgte 3gen)
does someone knows about that clutch ,
or should i keep my original one ?
cause 50$ for that near my home sound a good deal lol
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^LMAO. Had a stage 2 racing clutch from them and it broke all 6 springs after 1,500 miles. Good luck.
I cant believe your just blowing off the rust issue and still spending money on performance parts....
Rust is eating your car away. Is not as bad as it looks because you cannot look beyond the undercoating.
before continuing on that car, please remove the old undercoating and do an inspection of the affected area, sanblast it and then recover it before its too late.
torque and HP will tear that tower apart..
0.02
ouch! sounds like a lot of the guys here on the forums are looking out for you. I've never seen rust like that before. These guys who are worning you about the rust know a thing or two about our cars. They have been here for many many years. Sucks to see your car falling apart like that
Get a new shell seriously. It will be the smartest thing you ever do. I'm from New York the Salt King State and I know first hand the impact rust has on a vehicle. You will be fighting that rust every time you work on that car. If the body looks like that you can believe every bolt is siezed beyond removal. That equals snapping bolts and spending hours drilling and retapping. I can gurantee when you go to replace brakes you will snap both bolts off in the calipers, that means drill and tap (pain) or new calipers. It will be much more economical to start looking for a clean shell now or face the numerious repair costs in the future. I know this hurts because its like your child, but its brain dead and on life support....pull the plug.
Find a new body and swap. I realized my car is starting to rust so I'm just trying to keep it going for a few more years till I buy a 7thgen GT-S =D
so everyone here gonna say scrap your car and find a new one for a 3 inch hole in the rear wing wheel created by the water and salt from the wheel,
tssssssssssssssssss
its a 2 hours job
at least stephen lee is right
but whit the tool i will use, its gonna be ok
Not trying to say the car is crap or anything but I know how rust is and it sucks in everyway. If you can fix it then thats great but I would just look for another shell.
thank for sharing experience and give suggestion, i will try to do the best job i can , if the shell is too much damage, ill find a new one.
richee has a new one...
now i sold my second car, the only one left is the celica , running every day, and working whit it.
just want to mentionned that my 103 000km 3sgte engine was fully original (i think) and i dindn't change anything on it, no gasket , nothing.
and i have absolutly no oil lost leak in any kind of way , no dripping and no burning, no problem whit anything related to the engine
im really happy whit the 3sgte , even if i dind't have finish my swap 100% and cannot enjoy it full for now, this engine is just waiting for me to show is worth.... dammit, i need this motor mount fixed soon
my oil pressure goes to 0 and to 2-3 when press gas, and i lost the key of my car and need to change al, the bessel cause i have another one whit key, and probably need replace oil pump sh*******
have fun looking this video,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5kuzXOQE90&feature=player_embedded#!
needles
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Buy my Gts! It's 100% rust free (I mean it, it's all black of antirust underneath it) and it's fully equipt and clean with low mileage! The engine runs A1 too.. I'm not giving it away though lol..
LONG TIME NO UPDATE BUT WHO CARES HAHAHA !
i change my steering wheel assembly today for the st205 one, (99.9% the same as the st204) the only difference is the nice soft clic sound of the light and flasher stick....lol
i did lost my oil pressure, so before try starting it again to check it out, i check the oil level and its was empty as hell !! so i put back at least 3 liter in the engine and hoping it was not dead, car start back whit a little tuff tuff and when perfect, and i see my oil pressure get up to 65 again, i was soo happy !! and then i saw a big drip of oil under the right wheel, checking it, and cannot see where it drop like a fountain when on, so i start it again and it was the f*** oil filter!! quaker states one i think, broken on the middle ....
tommorow, will be new front right caliper and new rubber for front right axle and i need the st205 engine mouth, but for now, i use a chain under the car to maintain the struggle of the faulty engine mouth.
that is soo bad for the car....
how did it break in the first place?
I don't get the CA joke stevenson....
lol i think he talk about regulation out there in CA,
what do yout hink of my ideaS, its been long time ago i want to convert my front bumper, i might get a gt4 one that is crush and crack for less money and cut the front grill to fill on my front bumper
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/52/sam0057m.jpg/
image upload whit my finger working on the mouse
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/143/newmodfront.jpg/
also, i will paint back my inside high beam chrome color to see full effect into it, not only one little spot,
i did paint it black inside when i had install my bi-xenon projector...
Aren't you supposed to make progress in a progression thread? It seems like everytime you run into a serious problem in this thread you are focused on something else. You really need to get your priorities in line before you kill yourself or someone else.
In soviet Russia, car works on you!!!
MrGrapes
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so, now calm down, heres a bonzai , whatch and relax
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Just so I understand this correctly. your brake broke so you did NOT drive the car because it was dangerous. Good call.
But your engine mount was busted, and so you strapped it up and still drove it? I'm just trying to make sure I understand exactly what happened here. I must give it to you though.... where I come from we have a few different terms for what this is... and you sir have perfected it. This might be one of the best "rigged" jobs I've seen in a while.
I wish your english would progress as much as your car, out of the last 10 posts all I got was that your caliper had a hole in it and your engine mount is made out of duct tape
awesome, just awesome
please.... this is not a civic
So lets see, you ran your engine low of 3 quarts of oil, your engine is held up by a towing strap, and your front right caliper is blocked off with vice grips. So when will you be putting your car in reverse on the freeway?
C'est pas un ''engine mouth'' mais Engine mount...
after i have installed the new steering assembly , (the one from a gt4) whit the stick inverted, i get a weird problem !!!
every button is mixed up !!
to make the wiper works, i need to push on winshield washer,
to make the winshiled washer, i need to open the wiper,
to turn right signal , ineed to open the highg beam looololol
lololol
video in 5 min
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/31/eq2.mp4/
I bet the wiring harnesses aren't quite compatible..... I bet some research would have helped out here... imagine that.
the wiring isnt compatible lmao i believe there is a sticky on it or something.
you are turning that thing into a sh!t box dude.
please wear a baseball mit on both hands forever!@
There should be cops out there who take cars away from people who do things like this too them.
You know, maybe we should hire a translator for this guy ><
whyyy whyy thee black and grey chinese fake CF!!! atleast use the 3M one if you are gonna doo thaaat to the daaashhh
I would make those other two issues top priority when it comes to spending any money, as far as the electrical stuff it seems like you dont have to spend money on it so I guess tighty up that stuff is good in the mean time; is the back plate for the gauges white cardboard?
i didn't mind the CF. thought it looked alright. I know you were trying to go with the blue and yellow theme for the engine bay and other parts of the car, hence the yellow shifter as well, so maybe incorporate those colors into a design scheme for the gauge background. blue base with yellow tiger stripes or something I don't know haha.
but I would also fix the motor mount situation and the brake situation before doing any more aesthetic mods. imo some things are just...... well , just more important.
or being that your rims are gold you could go with a gold color to match. but yea get those two done first =)
what ever happened with the rusting issue?
rust = cancer.
even if its in an "unimportant" part of the car, it WILL spread...
one of the more interesting threads..
how ever i think there is some potential with that custom gauge pod thingy you got rigged up there. with some proper ideas and well.. common sense it could look pretty cool
I'm not sure I could stand to lose my air vents.... BUT if he you incorporate some general slots to at least allow air flow and maybe have those "vents" just in and around the gauges.... could be awesome.
Here's a question. Why is your dash back light half blue led and half white led?
Its ur car bro, build it the way u want. I personally like the gauge set up because its unique n different. I wouldnt personally would keep that front bumper instead doing gt4 like everyone else. Did the front bumper come with the car already? If so, Id keep it also that bumper isnt cheap its value is $650 or 486.85 Euro. Deff worth keeping.
But if u still wanna get rid of it Id be happy to buy from u.
I only bought the front n rear bumpers. I was gonna order the whole kit, but since my car came with perfectly fine 404 sides I figured Id keep em. I saved a lil bit of money and it would be stupid to throw away or get rid of a pair of sides that were in such good shape. Plus I think they flow nicely with the bumpers too. My bumpers were ordered from the Varis factory in Tokyo, and I think thats why I paid so much. $650 for the front n $650 for the rear. Hell my Bride seats were $1200 a piece.
front righthttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/638/sam0384k.jpg/
rear lefthttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/sam0386y.jpg/
front lefthttp://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/412/sam0385r.jpg/
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they look crappy for now , but its only a matter of time until my imagination will cover that seat whit another custom touch
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I understand cost and budget is a big deal. Try ebaymotors.com u can actually find alot of low-priced affordable parts there. Just gotta take the time to look.
you should AT LEAST weld those "extensions" to the frame of the seat. you made a "pivot" point basically & i wouldnt be surprised if the seat shifted or broke loose in a high G situation (wreck)
this... as a general question. Could the Recaro seat have been fit to the rails of his old seat?
81231-0C010
clear cover for tacoma or thundra
u need to cut just a little bit inside the lens , i little chip inside , but its easy whit a cutter and take 10 sec.
what do you have to cut? or do you mean like sand one side of it down?
had two issue whit the electronic setup:
when car is close and i want listen radio, the fuel pump start same time and its loud, so im gonna fix the wire to the acc1 who light up the clock before ,
issue 2,
when i blast the radio to max, the car doesnt start cause the fuel pump did not engage cause not enought voltage,
so i lower the radio and clic the starting switch again and its open the fuel pump,
that last one make me think of a systhem that can control the voltage of the fuel pump whit a dimmer lolol,
but that just one ideas for swapper for fuel economie and avoid the ugly noise from fuel pump whenm normal driving.
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