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> Rave's Next Progression Thread, 95 GT Red
post Jan 2, 2016 - 3:26 PM
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rave2n

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QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 1, 2016 - 7:26 PM) *
in your first picture with the white arrows, that is the fuel return line. It connects to the end of the fuel rail on that nipple you point to with the white arrow. I recently had that line leaking fuel so I had to replace it. You might want to get a new hose while you've got things apart to avoid smelling gas. your red arrows image sounds correct. I think you want this hose to go to P or E on the throttle body providing vacuum when the throttle is open but no vacuum at idle. on the last picture those look like vacuum hoses but without seeing where the other end goes, I can't tell.


On that fuel return line, I assume that goes back to the tank? I thought it would be connected to charcoal canister? Or does the line above it, the right right arrow do the canister to tank run?

I think it does, but I'm trying to mesh together how all these goes looking at 50x diagrams, and it seems most have just deleted this. Seeing I already have, I figured I'd hook it up =P

On that last picture, those small hoses connect to a hardline that ends up to another soft line on the intake manifold.

Did find my MAP sensor, so that will cover one of the inlets on the intake, and VSV which did relieve some confusion. Appears one end of the VSV goes to the intake, the other to the W2A exchanger.

Appreciate all the help!

The most pictures I could find on it, where on Pressure2's build, but he removed his canister, but it did help me figure out other lines lol.

I may have some of it figured out. Go go part numbers...

77277A - Fuel Return Tube - Indicates the return to the middle hardline

77261E - Tank to Canister - Indicates the left most line facing forward of vehicle.


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Well just went to it, and got more done...I think I have it all right now...Had to go pick up a small line and bridge to replace what seems to be gone. Luckily they had it available =) Just the line that comes from the charcoal to those nipples on top labeled P & E



Confirmed I got the right fuel return to hardline hooked up, found my VSV, and turns out I have 2 MAP sensors.

I didn't realize it was still attached to the harness this whole time. First thing I did when I got the engine was remove the harness expecting to ship it off. Didn't work out. It would appear the bracket and the top piece of it with part number were torn off but the sensor and line itself were intake and connected to the manifold, I just removed the connection. So, I have a spare now =)

Looks dirty as hell, but meh, at least things are finally lining up.

I expect to do wiring tomorrow. Unpin, repin, fight if I want to extend just a few wires or get creative...

Oh anyone know why the coil pack is hitting the hardline on the master? I swear I have the right mounting place...

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 2, 2016 - 5:01 PM
post Jan 2, 2016 - 5:30 PM
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antoine64



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I'm glad to hear your figuring it out. lots of hoses that need to be hooked up just right to make it work. I had fits sorting out my hoses. Still not sure if everything is right.

here's a picture of my engine. I feel like the previous owner was smok'n crack when they put the engine in but I've been sorting things out. My ignition module points out instead of to the side like yours. I don't know if that's your problem or not. the vacuum line over the top of my intake manifold plugs into the top of the charcoal canister. Mine is the older canister in your picture not the fancy one that came with your engine. they probably work similar though. the two large black hoses draped over my turbo piping go to the air intake tube. one is for the breather and the other is for the idle air and stock turbo vsv air.

post Jan 3, 2016 - 11:21 AM
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QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 2, 2016 - 5:30 PM) *
I'm glad to hear your figuring it out. lots of hoses that need to be hooked up just right to make it work. I had fits sorting out my hoses. Still not sure if everything is right.

here's a picture of my engine. I feel like the previous owner was smok'n crack when they put the engine in but I've been sorting things out. My ignition module points out instead of to the side like yours. I don't know if that's your problem or not. the vacuum line over the top of my intake manifold plugs into the top of the charcoal canister. Mine is the older canister in your picture not the fancy one that came with your engine. they probably work similar though. the two large black hoses draped over my turbo piping go to the air intake tube. one is for the breather and the other is for the idle air and stock turbo vsv air.


Lol, yours looks pretty damn clean man!

I got a ton of clean up to do, a lot of it looks like hell right now, but its really me mocking it all up and getting everything in order since it sat for 2 years. In all reality, it will be pulled again in a year, harness will be cleaned up and re-wrapped, and I expect to either get a e153, or find a LSD scenario for the S54 since I recently had it rebuilt. So right now, I just want it running. I can nitpick items down the road. Having 2 vehicles helps =)

------------------------

Working on the wiring today.

Doing the 6 wires on the EA1. Ran into a slight issue, as I do not have the body harness itself, been trying to source it forever, but never could find it, so it looks like I'm going to have to get some pickup wire and wire these few in themselves. Thankfully, they cut the wires with a good 6 inches on them, leaving me enough space to work with them. Finding OEM connectors should be interesting for all these items...kinda hoping they are still on the items, but I doubt it. They were hard enough to even get shipped in the first place...a year of fighting to get that damn W2A pump.

Need to get the diagrams out and make sure I'm doing this right. I think its just FP, coil, and W2A runs. Re-pinning should be easy enough, done that a million times, but I'm short a pin for the internal clutch start because my 5S harness went with the 5S when sold. No big deal on that though, that portion won't get behind the firewall until next weekend, so I may be able to remedy that.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 3, 2016 - 11:22 AM
post Jan 3, 2016 - 3:50 PM
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Well, figured out my wiring issues...quite a bit more simple than I expected once I really started to focus on it.

Time to make a harness for this relay box. Got lucky, because all the wires match from the 3s EA1 plug. So all I should need to do is repin from the 3s plug into the 5s plug and call it a day. So one end is made, solder in the rest another time, then carry the pins over.

Supplies


Don't forget to tin that wire wink.gif


I think she'll hold...


Right or not at all?


Almost done


Finished product


So I should stop begging for help now. I literally sat down for 3 hours today and went over all the stuff I used to know, and refreshed myself. Once again 6gc saves the day. I followed pressure's build til I needed to pull out diagrams on the wiring since mine is a little different.

Starting to get excited, its not far from running. I do still have to do the ECU side of the harness, but I'm thinking I'm getting creative with that. I still have enough room to cut a hole and go that route into the center.
post Jan 3, 2016 - 6:05 PM
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enderswift



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good job. People always assume wiring is harder than it really is


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post Jan 3, 2016 - 9:07 PM
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Nice wire connecting! That's what I do: Solder and shrink tubing. Sometimes I'll add a little liquid electrical tape to seal it up good. It's a shame you didn't use the same wire colors but you just need to mark them so you know which is which. I suggest a label maker or to solder a small several inch stub of the original wire to the end so that end-to end is the same color.
post Jan 3, 2016 - 9:49 PM
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QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 3, 2016 - 10:07 PM) *
Nice wire connecting! That's what I do: Solder and shrink tubing. Sometimes I'll add a little liquid electrical tape to seal it up good. It's a shame you didn't use the same wire colors but you just need to mark them so you know which is which. I suggest a label maker or to solder a small several inch stub of the original wire to the end so that end-to end is the same color.


Where I'm soldering to is the default color wink.gif after that I just move the pins. I have leads at the end of the ea1 socket for the 3s box, so these are just jumpers per say. Can always continuity test a line. I left the original colors at my solder joints just electrical wrapped for easy access to lines. =)

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 3, 2016 - 9:52 PM
post Jan 8, 2016 - 1:47 PM
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Wiring part 2!

My 5s EA1 plug was solid in the empty pin holes. I tried to drill it out, but doing so messed up the socket and the pins wouldn't sit right, and/or damage them when connected.

So I swapped my 3s plug over to the 5s body harness. Repinning is fairly easy, I just used a tiny flat head to release the pins after removing the white guard inside of the connector.



Splicing in the IC and FP relay box. Just matching all the wires from the 3s plug. Got a little to eager and didn't let the joint cool down before I moved the heatshrink over, and it shrunk before I could get it over..but..only you guys will see that wink.gif



Now connecting the 3 left over lines to the body harness directly due to no pin location.



Almost there for the relay box side of things. Harness just needs wrapping



And wrap it up. Mount obviously when rad is installed.



Still need to figure out where those last 4 wires go. Fairly certain they go directly to the IC and FP or something or other. I just have to look it up.

I did run into a snag when dealing with the 3 left over wires they are typically spliced in.

2 of the 3 made sense, and went directly with Bsamps guide, but I had 1 left over that wasn't on the 6 outer pins. In his guide was white/black stripe. Mine was black/white stripe, but also the only wire left. I checked the schematic and it does appear to be a relay leg to another leg, so I spliced that one in just like his white/black one. If anything, its just the IC relay, so if that doesn't work, I know where the problem is lol.

So several more wires to figure out and should be smooth sailing from here.

Edit:

And looking at my own pictures...I splice in the black\white w grey dots to a white\black, when coming out the plug itself is the black\white w grey dots. Now I have to figure out what all that is, cause I think its wrong the way I have it.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 8, 2016 - 1:59 PM
post Jan 8, 2016 - 2:34 PM
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Okay yea I messed that 1 line up...



Thats the line I took, and spliced into this....



So gunna need to figure this one out..
post Jan 9, 2016 - 11:25 AM
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Pretty positive I have the wiring right now. I did mess up and had to go back and fix 1 line, and create the connections for the IC water pump.



New lines for the IC pump, and fixing the black/white white/black wire that I messed up. It comes from the pump itself instead of directly from the relay box. Go Go schematics.



I do not have the connector for the IC pump itself, so I'm going to cut is back, and use butt splice to put it in place. Each line to be weather resistant labeled.



Final off the 2 harnesses I needed to make. Technically it should just be 1 with a pigtail, but I forgot about that and just made it longer coming from the EA1 instead of running it up the loom. I'll ziptie the 2 together once I figure placement.



All buttoned up



Now there were 2 lines that concerned me.

1 was pin 13 on EA1 Green - Looked it up and it turned out to be for ABS, since I do not have such, I just tied if off.

The 2nd line that bothered me is one going to the IC pump. The schematics say it should be GR-B on pin 17 of EA1 - Mine was GR-R. I looked through the schematics, and there is no other GR-R line that goes to the EA1, and I straight swapped the wires from the 3s plug, so not sure where that mix up came into play...another revision I dunno...but, its on the right pin on the connector, so I just moved forward with it.

Just checked a moment ago on that wire in question, and it does ring out at the ECU side where it should, and the color carries all the way there. So I guess its either an error in the manual, or just a later revision or something. /shrug, all should be fine.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 9, 2016 - 11:36 AM
post Jan 9, 2016 - 5:48 PM
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Different years have some different colors.
Always go by the pin #.


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post Jan 9, 2016 - 7:44 PM
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QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jan 9, 2016 - 6:48 PM) *
Different years have some different colors.
Always go by the pin #.


Reassuring to hear that!

That was my end result, figured in my profession colors mean nothing even on a basic cat5e cable, as long as 4 pins match it'll transfer. So I applied the same thought and lots of multi meter work. Schematics saved my life. I'm 98% Sure the wiring is right. I leave the 2% just in case I messed something up lol.
post Jan 10, 2016 - 3:15 PM
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Back to work. Spent most the morning messing with odds and ends.

Heat exchanger mounted up. Its a temp hold for now, I expect to change out front bumpers to the facelift, and thats when I figure I'll do that whole area. Including the AC coil which is pretty rough.

It'll hold for now. Need to grab some hardware, just wire holding it up know, but I also know my lines reach =)



Pump hung, still need to finish wiring it, but next weekend possibly. Ready to go though. This is another item I plan to find better placement for, and more secure mounting. I also want to remove the hardlines from the setup and butt up some rubber lines. I have no place to mount those, and they just get in the way of everything really. Be a easy delete, aslong as I can butt up to the formed lines easy enough.



Not exactly sure if I can fit the stock fans in there. Almost certain I can't. Its a oversized rad, so going to need to grab some slim fans to put on there or its going to be cooking on the downpipe.



Starting to get cluttered in there. Didn't expect everything to be so tight, but its fun figuring it out. Some accessories mount, AC, alternator. Still need to find belts for those, and a PS one.

Moved the boot down on the harness, and going to clean up, and extend the others next weekend. Hands are sore lol.



Well its moving along. Whats left to do in bay...

- Replace PS vacuum valve.
- Hook up PS lines
- Delete IC hardlines
- Connect IC pump wires
- Cruise Control Module
- Belts
- Air intake Filter and lines
- Extend connections on harness - Manage loom
- Fans on rad
- Sensor for rad
- Source or fabricate throttle cable mount - I stupidity threw it away
- Connect ECU
- Fuel Line to Filter Connection
- Fluids in everrrrything
- Get AC charged

So...I think thats another weekend if I can get all the parts I need.

Then I have some exterior items to fix. I put the new hub on, but I'm unimpressed by its condition. So I'm going to take my other hub to get a new bearing since it was torn up. Its in much better condition.

Also need to get some axles, and install walbro pump. After that, prime the system, and hope for the best!

Think I'm going to do something just like this for the fans.



This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 10, 2016 - 3:28 PM
post Jan 10, 2016 - 8:12 PM
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enderswift



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Why cant you mount the ic pump in the stock location?


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post Jan 10, 2016 - 8:47 PM
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QUOTE (enderswift @ Jan 10, 2016 - 8:12 PM) *
Why cant you mount the ic pump in the stock location?


I...I couldn't find that location.

I thought maybe because I didn't have the ST205 front end I was missing some pieces.

I really hope it mounts normal lol....cause my ghetto rig is not nice.
post Jan 10, 2016 - 11:58 PM
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enderswift



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the mounting spot exists on the usdm frame. I'll try to find a photo for you


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post Jan 11, 2016 - 8:50 AM
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post Jan 11, 2016 - 10:10 AM
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QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jan 11, 2016 - 8:50 AM) *


Much thanks.

Now I can see why I couldn't find where the heck it mounted. I'm missing that piece of the bracket that connects to the frame.

Guess I'll fab one up.
post Jan 11, 2016 - 10:36 AM
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Fans and Brackets ordered. Got 2 Spal 30100467 12" Curved Blade Puller Fan.

Throttle Cable bracket found on Ebay and ordered.

Rad temp sensor pickup later today local.

Can't seem to find a OEM IC pump bracket, I have half of it, so going to fab up the last piece that seems to mount to the frame. Simple enough it looks like.

Debating if I want to replace the IC heat exchanger with an aftermarket one. Its not pretty, and I'm unimpressed by its mounting and condition. A good 200 bucks for another unit...I may do it.

post Jan 12, 2016 - 6:03 PM
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Remounted the IC pump to the stock location.

The mount isn't pretty, metal working is not one of my favorites things to do =P - But, it functions, and I know it won't fall out the car now.



Also removed the hardlines. May need to cut these back a little, but always good to have extra.



Bout all I felt like doing today. More to come when parts arrive.

What do you guys think about replacing my heat exchanger with this one?

http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-air-he...ger-p-1026.html

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 12, 2016 - 6:14 PM

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