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> steering knuckle / wheel assembly? wheel bearings?
post Feb 23, 2013 - 9:49 PM
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homebuilder

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Hi,

I have bad bearings in the front passenger side. I noticed online a rear wheel assembly for the same price as the bearings along.

Is there an assembly for the front?

I was told something about it being called the knuckle, can you buy that with the bearings already installed so no need for a press?

The mechanic I was talking to said the assembly or whatever holds the bearings was probably bad since the wheel bearings are making noise, and I may as well get and replace the whole thing. Now I know part of if not his whole reason for saying this is apparently it is less labor to just replace the whole knuckle compared to replacing the bearings... But what is yor experience? It only started making scrapping noises today, do you expect the whole knuckle to be bad?

post Feb 23, 2013 - 10:38 PM
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Hirogodsend



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post Feb 24, 2013 - 7:15 AM
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njccmd2002



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knuckles new are expensive, have not seen any aftermarket, best bet would be either used from ebay, or someone parting out car.


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post Feb 24, 2013 - 2:52 PM
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homebuilder

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Thanks. I thought about getting one from a junk yard, but I am not entirely sure what the knuckle is. Can anyone tell me what it is and how to remove?

The diagram above is great, but the parts are not identified so I am not real sure what I need to remove.

Thanks!
post Feb 24, 2013 - 3:27 PM
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Bitter

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Knuckle is probably fine unless it spun an outer race which is unlikely. It could have spun an inner race and damaged the hub though, I've seen that a few times. Have to take it apart to know though.


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post Feb 24, 2013 - 3:36 PM
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Syaoran



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QUOTE (homebuilder @ Feb 24, 2013 - 3:52 PM) *
Thanks. I thought about getting one from a junk yard, but I am not entirely sure what the knuckle is. Can anyone tell me what it is and how to remove?

The diagram above is great, but the parts are not identified so I am not real sure what I need to remove.

Thanks!


The knuckle on the diagram is #4


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post Feb 24, 2013 - 6:31 PM
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homebuilder

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Thanks, how hard is ti to take off in a junkyard? It looks like it bolts to the strut, do you need to compress the spring to take it off?

Any direction is appreciated...
post Feb 24, 2013 - 8:55 PM
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playr158



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you don't need to compress anything, just unbolt the ball joint on the bottom and two bolts to the strut and it will detatch itself.

don't forget that means the axle nut needs to come off too and the brakes.
post Feb 24, 2013 - 11:09 PM
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you also need to unbolt the tie rod too
post Feb 25, 2013 - 1:25 AM
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ILoveMySilly97



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Tools you'll need are pretty basic garage tools. The list below is the tools I use to remove replace my axle so basically you'll need all these tools just to remove the knuckle.

You don't need to compress the springs but just a FYI. The spring tension is going to be there so removing the strut bolts is going to be a battle to remove. Removing the first one is going to be easy but the second one you'll have to stick something through the strut hole and hit the object to push the bolt out. Reason is, is because the tension is going to push down onto the strut bolt. Making the holes not aligned. So you'll have to put some muscle into it. Once the bolt flies out. Just hope that object you used doesn't get stuck in the hole. Most likely it will get stuck. That object will most likely be that flat head too. So it's up to you if you want to compress the springs or not.

I personally recommend since you're going to take off your knuckle anyways. Might as well buy a new bearing from Autozone or NAPA and take the new bearing along with your knuckle to a local tire shop that can press the bearing. So that way you'll know you have a good bearing. Shops can press it in for like 40-60 dollars. The bearing is about 20-50 dollars from Autozone.

Here's a DIY vid for removal of the front passenger CV axle for the USDM GT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEwSe4xjD4Q

Basically the list of tools you'll need working on the front passenger suspension:
12mm Socket(Loosening the strut gives you play with the strut to remove the two strut bolts)
14mm Socket(Brake Caliper & Tie Rod)
17mm Socket(Brake Pad Bracket & the 3 bottom knuckle bolts)
19mm Socket and wrench(You'll need the wrench to hold onto the strut bolt while you use the socket to spin the strut nut OR vice versa)
30mm Socket(You can loan this from Autozone for like $20. This socket is used for the axle nut)
Ratchet(For the sockets of course...)
Breaker bar OR pipe to attatch to the ratchet(Nuts are going to be hard to break loose)
Needle Nose Pliers(Two cotter pins. One on the axle nut and another on the tie rod nut)
^^^MUST HAVE^^^

Crossbar(Just in case the rims are still there)
WD40(Just in case it's just too rusty)
2lb Hammer(Always handy to have a hammer)
Flathead Screw Driver(Just in case you need to pick or pry)
^^^Recommended^^^

Most of the time at junkyards the car won't be on the ground. They'll sitting on top of rims or jack stands or something.

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: Feb 25, 2013 - 1:30 AM


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post Feb 25, 2013 - 3:57 PM
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lagos



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Your better off removing your own knuckle and just taking it to a shop that can press out the old bearing and press in a new one.
If you get a junk yard knuckle with bearing, your going to get a used part that may or may not be just as bad as what you have now. I think a new bearing is about 100 bucks, and you could probably have a shop press it in for you for 50 bucks.... or buy your own press for 100 bucks.


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post Feb 25, 2013 - 4:06 PM
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mkernz22



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You can buy a wheel bearing from autzone, one of them is $35 and the other is $52
post Feb 25, 2013 - 7:16 PM
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homebuilder

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Thanks,

I ended up hiring a mechanic, as he took the wheel spindle off, the bearing fell out in pieces but left behind the inner rim. He was not able to remove, so off the the junkyard I went. I got the spindle knuckle with a good bearing for 50. Not sure if that's a good price, but it worked.

Thanks for all the advice!

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