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> I am just going to run low boost. . . yea right!, A warning for anyone who wants to boost a 5sfe
post May 14, 2017 - 2:26 PM
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HardHead93

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QUOTE (Bitter @ May 14, 2017 - 12:35 PM) *
Oh for ****s sake that sucks.


Why you no port and polish while waiting? laugh.gif


It is too late for that I just put the head back onto the block this morning. ARP head studs are a pain in the butt! I had to get a special deep socket 12mm, 12 point because it is so tight where the head studs are.


Good news is I ordered some 3rd gen 3sgte BC 264/264 stage 2 camshafts that I am getting modified to hold the cam sensor tooth. I am combo'ing that with adjustable cam gears. That will definitely help with turbo spool and they work with the stock ECU. I have heard people adding 30-40 hp to a 3sgte without the need for turning up the boost. That will be great since I have piss water 91 octane for fuel where I live.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: May 14, 2017 - 3:23 PM
post May 14, 2017 - 4:02 PM
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It's always something, hopefully between fixing the exhaust leak and everything else will have more stable operating temperatures.


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post May 15, 2017 - 7:54 PM
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HardHead93

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My Brian Crower camshafts just came in today. I plan to drop them off at the machine shop tomorrow. I need the camshaft sensor tooth moved from the stock intake cam to the BC aftermarket one. These cams definitely have a little more lift and duration, I can tell by just comparing the lobes. Here are some pics of the stock intake cam next to the aftermarket one.


post May 17, 2017 - 12:49 PM
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slavie

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Any time I have to deal with any exhaust bolts, I dread the job long before it begins and spray everything with penetrating fluid for a few days before removal, use impact tools, go slowly. The only way I've tried where no bolts suffered. Go at them dry, or with hand tools, and there's about 20% chance of broken bolts.

I haven't had much luck with removing broken bolts from cast aluminum housings (head, transmission). Seems like once those steel bolts dig into aluminum, they aren't coming out - drill 'em out and put thread insets in. My collection of thread insert sets has grown over the years...
post May 18, 2017 - 5:32 AM
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HardHead93

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QUOTE (slavie @ May 17, 2017 - 1:49 PM) *
Any time I have to deal with any exhaust bolts, I dread the job long before it begins and spray everything with penetrating fluid for a few days before removal, use impact tools, go slowly. The only way I've tried where no bolts suffered. Go at them dry, or with hand tools, and there's about 20% chance of broken bolts.

I haven't had much luck with removing broken bolts from cast aluminum housings (head, transmission). Seems like once those steel bolts dig into aluminum, they aren't coming out - drill 'em out and put thread insets in. My collection of thread insert sets has grown over the years...


Good to know if it ever happens again. I replaced all the exhaust studs and besides the one that snapped off they all came out without any penetrating oil. I think the one that snapped off was already broken before I took it off because it required very little force for it to snap off. I will use some kind of penetrating oil from now on.
post May 22, 2017 - 5:34 PM
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HardHead93

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I finished getting my car back together and on the road. I spent Saturday night breaking in the new BC camshafts. I started the car and rev'ed it to 2K rpm then moved it up and down between 2 and 3K rpm for 25 minutes. Then Sunday morning I did the exact same thing with the break-in again just to be safe. After that I changed the oil filter and put the rest of the car back together. Then Monday morning I did the break-in stuff one more time before taking it out for a drive.

The car drives awesome! I really notice the difference with these new camshafts. First, I ran it on stock spring pressure (7 - 8 psi) for a little bit and it felt more like 10 psi on stock cams. When I finally turned the boost back up to 13 psi, OH MY GOD! The engine pulled really hard on boost. My butt dyno went through the roof on that pull. I need to get this car to a tuner so I can get some actual dyno numbers. I did notice the car is a little bit louder with the new cams, I am guessing it is because of the extra lift and duration.

Also, no more exhaust ticking and the heat issues have gone away so far. This came together just in time for the next local track day this Sunday. It will be a good time!
post May 22, 2017 - 6:26 PM
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It's normal for a "bigger" cam to be louder with nothing else being changed. Good example being your domestic V8s where just a cam swap makes a huge difference in the exhaust tone and volume.

Look forward to the dyno numbers.


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post May 23, 2017 - 8:25 AM
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HardHead93

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I retarded the exhaust cam by 3 degrees. I read on the MR2 forums that, that will add some more hp on the 3rd and 4th gen 3sgte's.

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