I've been thinking I need to do this for a while now, but Dustin and Manny inspired me to do it in the podcast tonight.
This information is comprised from various threads with the help of Batman722, hurley97, njccmd2002, turnip, erahman, and others. I will continue to update this thread with better pictures and details as the need arises.
Important information before you get started:
1. This thread is a general guideline, NOT a 100% direct how-to! This is what was necessary to get my BEAMS going in my 1998 USDM ST204. Other changes may be necessary on different models.
2. As always, this thread is for information purposes only. I cannot be held responsible for any accidents, injuries, or any damages that may occur during an engine swap.
Now that that's out of the way, lets get started. First things first, here's a helpful link for how to remove wires for the plugs in your wiring harness.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=92693&pid=1046398&st=0&#entry1046398
You have two options for routing the engine harness. Since the BEAMS came in a right hand drive Celica, the harness goes through the opposite side of the firewall. This means the harness is too short to go through the same place in the firewall that the 5S harness goes though. You have two options: 1.) To properly extend the harness to reach the stock hole or 2.) to cut a new hole in the firewall.
excellent post! The only comment I have is conform the signal to the wire. In my years of wiring toyotas, color code does not always match and pin location does not always match. Im finding diagrams swapping signals.
specifically RSC and RSO. one 3S-GTE diagrams had them swapped from another.
Extending the harness: To extend or not to extend?
As previously stated, the wiring harness on the BEAMS was intended to go through the opposite side of the firewall than what it does on USDM Celicas, making the harness simply too short to go through the same routing as the 5S-FE or 7A-FE engine harnesson our USDM left hand drive Celicas. One way to get around this is to cut a hole in the firewall, as so many 3S-GTE and BEAMS owners, myself included, have chosen to do. See the picture below for a general reference of where to cut the hole.
That photo comes courtesty of Batman722 from his 3S-GTE swap thread. Again, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS measure twice and cut once, make sure there are no flammable fluids in the area (fuel lines will have been opened prior to this), check both sides of the firewall to ensure that you are not cutting anything valuable such as your dash harness, and proceed with extreme caution.
Choosing to run your harness through the firewall means that you will need to extend a four wire plug for the A/C amplifier. It’s the plug that plugs in underneath the glovebox when you unplug and remove the engine harness. It’s very possible that you may be able to pull enough slack to not extend your plug, but myself and others had to extend those few wires before we could make the plug reach.
Obviously going this direction means that you will have an open hole where the original harness used to be. I used a small piece of plexiglass and a small piece of Frost King foam duct insulation to cover that hole, drilling holes through the plexiglass and using the nuts that originally held the engine harness in place to secure the plexiglass. The Frost King was between the firewall and plexiglass to insulate for noise and keep uwanted bugs, heat, etc. out of the cabin of my car. I was never happy with that solution due to the cheap look, but I already had the materials sitting around. I could have spent under $10 to pick up a thin piece of sheet metal and achieved a much cleaner look to seal the hole off.
Option #2: Extending the entire engine harness to follow the original USDM routing through the original hole.
Know this before you get started: If you cannot solder or do not have a friend who can properly solder wires together, you are better off going with the first option. If you aren’t afraid of tackling this project yourself, be sure to buy some solder, a soldering pen, some wire, and some heat shrink tubing to make a few test joints before tearing your wiring harness apart.
After a short period of time, I decided I didn’t like how I had ran my harness. By this point I had bought a second BEAMS Redtop so I had a spare wiring harness to play with. I decided I would try my hand at extending the harness to emulate the USDM wiring routing. I opened a small section of the wiring room about 6” before the harness enters the firewall and I got to work extending every single wire about two feet. This was entirely too much and leaves me with a lot of slack in my harness in the engine bay. 18” would have been much better and may still be too long. This only shows that it never pays to assume- you should take a proper measurement before extending your harness like I should have.
Please note: There are a few shielded wires in the BEAMS wiring harness. I extended mine but njccmd2002 did not have to. Please read below.
Had I read njccmd2002’s thread again before diving into this project, I would have known that I did not need to extend all ~60 wires. He was able to unloom his harness completely and pull enough slack out of most of his wires that he only needed to extend roughly 25 wires. I’m sure he can elaborate on this. See his pictures below.
Awesome post! Now when i get around to doing the swap I can pretty easily just look at this.
I paid a boatload for the 3sgte harness and it still threw the code 54 which i had to figure out myself. Even though the info is here on 6gc, it was spread out over a lot of posts and no one really confirmed if what they did worked. I assume they just got it working and called it a day, not bothering to post what they did.
Will deff use this when i do my future swap in the red celi. Makes everything soo much easier when you dont spend your time searching...and searching..
and congrats on being a mod
what is code 54 anyways? yes i dont know, i dont have a real engine.. too lazy to search, and i bet others are too...
one question for the ST owners? i read somewhere an issue with the radiators somewhere, where the st does not have a temp sensor, this was swapping a 3sgte... would this apply to the beams, or not..
Anyone that has swapped a beams into an ST may want to chip in...
Dustin i think you are incorrect about the sensor to the gauge. Typically the gauge is a single wire sensor like the one in this pic. here you see the 2 wire sensor for the ECU and the single wire next to it for the gauge. im really not sure what the sensor on the radiator is for.
then again i might be all wrong, im just going off memory here.
edit: now im 100% sure the gauge is the single wire on the waterneck, tuning Amy's car over the weekend the temp gauge never moved, check the sensor and the plug had come off. plugged it in and boom, normal temp reported.
That's correct, the st has it on the waterneck, the gt has the sensor in the rad.
Jeff, just to verify, see if that st has the plug (unplugged) pass side, near the bottom of the rad for a gt rad.
this picture is of a 99 GT
Understood.
I was on my phone and couldn't see the pic that well.
I was wrong, the temp sensor on the GT rad is for the fans, not for the gauge. The sensor for the fans is on the waterneck for the ST.
If you swap a 3s using the 3s harness and you do not use that sensor (in the GT radiator) your fans will be on when the car is on. As I said the wiring is there for it, just use a GT radiator with the sensor, then plug it in, no issues.
BEAMS Redtop Wiring Pin Guide
Same picture, translated:
ECU Pinout:
ill get some pics of my beams as it lays outside to show how i guided the wires...
this pics can be moved to the top.
this is where i routed the harness. i did not cut and weld all wires, but only a few, i rerouted the rest, i think i even left the knock sensor wire intact...
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/96_26th_Anniversary/General_stuff/DSCN1062_zps228113aa.jpg.html
close up...
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/96_26th_Anniversary/General_stuff/DSCN1061_zps7b83b82f.jpg.html
this when i added the needed wires, which was only half of the harness., it ended being not so thick..
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/njccmd2002/media/6th_Generation_Celica/96_26th_Anniversary/General_stuff/DSCN1067_zpse1f78ab8.jpg.html
Has anyone ran into the issue of not having pins 17 or 12 on their ae1? In that case would I be able to bridge it before the connector on the other side? Or should I add a pin to those?
I'm looking at the 7A harness. That's where my BEAMS engine harness ends and my 7A chassis harness begins. We're supposed to bridge the wires after the box I thought...
When you said "When you remove your old engine, you'll see a large gray plug in the fusebox under the hood. This is the EA1 plug." I assumed it was the plug still in the car, correct?
Whoa, just now realized I forgot to reply to this post. I read your question right before going to sleep one night and meant to respond in the morning. The EA1 plug is in the engine harness, not the chassis harness. All the modifications to the harness will be done to the harness that came with the engine. The 7A's engine harness is now useless, and can be sold or scrapped with the engine. The chassis harness can be left alone and unmodified.
Just a quick note that should probably be highlighted. I kept forgetting to bring it up.
I didnt feel like going through the guide again to confirm but I am pretty sure this is how it goes:
The wiring guide has the IGN and EFI connected at EA1 plug or somewhere around there, which means when the EFI plug is pulled (compression testing reasons or fuel/spark testing) both the Fuel system and Ignition system are cut off from power. Ideally it would be nice to get these two on separate fuse systems but thatd be a bit more work.
I just thought itd be worth noting that wiring these two together may cause some confusion down the line if the person doesn't realize that they are wiring the two systems together.
Dose anyone know the gauge cluster diagram for the 3sge redtop beams engine really would help mph or rpm or temp doesn't work
All pictures that I have access to have been fixed- permanently. No worrying about any third party image hosting issues. Norberto, do you still have the pictures of extending your BEAMS harness?
temp post, looking for pics..
IMG_6030.jpg
IMG_6035.jpg
IMG_6138.jpg
IMG_6038.jpg
You can text them to me if that's easier for you. No need to host them somewhere, since I will be hosting them here.
lol go to bed... i have a way to look for them... im looking for them, i have to search by name, i will host them. cause i will try to bring back my beams swap post. no worries
plus i carry them in a thumb drive, so cant text, dont have them in my phone...
found them.... lol.. delete this post,,,,
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