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6G Celicas Forums _ My Project _ Just Another GT-4 Build

Posted by: qatar11 Aug 5, 2012 - 9:01 PM

Whelp,

Some of you know me, most of you don't... I am trying again... hopefully with less toasty results.


Game On:



























Game On.

Posted by: mkernz22 Aug 5, 2012 - 9:52 PM

mother of god.






can't wait.

Posted by: richee3 Aug 5, 2012 - 9:58 PM

I am excite!

Posted by: 3WayStunna Aug 5, 2012 - 11:07 PM

This thread is relevent to my interest.....

Posted by: rave2n Aug 6, 2012 - 7:37 AM

It has begun!

Posted by: playr158 Aug 6, 2012 - 9:55 AM

looooks like fun!

Posted by: markie Aug 6, 2012 - 9:59 AM

in for this!


ps: loving the work bench: water, gatorade, and a 25lbs box of kitty litter =)

Posted by: SwissFerdi Aug 6, 2012 - 1:15 PM

Props for hitting us with the full amount of porn right away, OP delivers. Good luck on the project.

Posted by: richee3 Aug 6, 2012 - 1:48 PM

Will this be a street driven car or something different?

Posted by: czwalga Aug 6, 2012 - 2:04 PM

What's your plan for the AWD?

Posted by: qatar11 Aug 6, 2012 - 2:05 PM

QUOTE (richee3 @ Aug 6, 2012 - 2:48 PM) *
Will this be a street driven car or something different?


Its going to start our as a daily driver... I'm thinking of pulling a Steve and doing Rally America but I'd like to enjoy it daily for a few years.

Posted by: czwalga Aug 6, 2012 - 2:19 PM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Aug 6, 2012 - 2:05 PM) *
QUOTE (richee3 @ Aug 6, 2012 - 2:48 PM) *
Will this be a street driven car or something different?


Its going to start our as a daily driver... I'm thinking of pulling a Steve and doing Rally America but I'd like to enjoy it daily for a few years.




Ohh F that.... rally all the way haha. Once you do it street vehicles are boring. Even though I was in korea for 5 weeks, i've still probably put less than 100 miles on my rx7 this summer. I need to fix some cosmetic issues on it this winter and sell it.

Posted by: qatar11 Aug 6, 2012 - 3:18 PM

QUOTE (czwalga @ Aug 6, 2012 - 3:19 PM) *
QUOTE (qatar11 @ Aug 6, 2012 - 2:05 PM) *
QUOTE (richee3 @ Aug 6, 2012 - 2:48 PM) *
Will this be a street driven car or something different?


Its going to start our as a daily driver... I'm thinking of pulling a Steve and doing Rally America but I'd like to enjoy it daily for a few years.


Ohh F that.... rally all the way haha. Once you do it street vehicles are boring. Even though I was in korea for 5 weeks, i've still probably put less than 100 miles on my rx7 this summer. I need to fix some cosmetic issues on it this winter and sell it.


Haha - I would but I have a Race Car for the 24 Hours of Lemons.. and I am thinking of promoting myself to NASA.... 2 Race cars is going to be a tough sell (especially when one is Endurance Racing).. if I get bored with Endurance racing or I inadvertantly turn it into a ball of steel, I might move my timeline up.

Posted by: qatar11 Aug 12, 2012 - 4:34 PM

So... Purple Power is some amazing stuff....




I have both the 1999 GT Harness and the 1994? GT-FOUR Harness in the basement and I am going to start to understand what the differences are.




Posted by: Stambo Aug 12, 2012 - 9:28 PM

can't wait i should be joining the gt4 conversion crowd very soon also.

Posted by: enderswift Aug 12, 2012 - 10:26 PM

QUOTE (Stambo @ Aug 12, 2012 - 9:28 PM) *
can't wait i should be joining the gt4 conversion crowd very soon also.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfslY_AvhLw

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 14, 2012 - 8:33 AM

Sorry for the long hiatus.... some updates

Using the old 3SGTE block from the fire - I installed the trans:





With the trans in place, I moved the mess back into the garage:



In a rare bit of clarvoyance, I saved the tunnel from my imported GT4 and I am going to use the OE mounts for the center drive shaft:








Posted by: qatar11 Sep 18, 2012 - 8:01 PM

Not very exciting... drilled out the welds without trashing the mounts:


Posted by: czwalga Sep 19, 2012 - 8:29 AM

Word of advice, if you have to remove that crap again... use an angle grinder vs. a drill. The angle grinder wire wheels work in less than half the time.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 19, 2012 - 10:24 AM

QUOTE (czwalga @ Sep 19, 2012 - 9:29 AM) *
Word of advice, if you have to remove that crap again... use an angle grinder vs. a drill. The angle grinder wire wheels work in less than half the time.



I'll be doing that again when i clean up the area under the car before I weld... will do.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 22, 2012 - 6:43 PM

Why... Hello there:




Stamped mounts cleaned up, test fitted, ready for tack welding and proper welding which will happen tomorrow..

Posted by: SwissFerdi Sep 22, 2012 - 7:43 PM

Impressive.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 24, 2012 - 11:04 AM

Teasers:









I was surprised how flammable the sound deadening was and how much it affected the ability to weld... we ended up getting an area hot and just scraping the goo off with a flat blade... carpet has been removed... black carpet is waiting in the wings.

Posted by: Ted95 Oct 9, 2012 - 7:10 AM

coming along nicely!

Posted by: qatar11 Oct 12, 2012 - 1:11 PM

Here is some underbody work...

The welds might not look very pretty but considering the work space and area welded, they will do just fine.






First coat of POR-15



I am very excited that I had the original drive shaft mounts - this came out very well.

Posted by: richee3 Oct 12, 2012 - 1:31 PM

Looking good! It's coming along pretty quickly.

Posted by: czwalga Oct 14, 2012 - 7:40 PM

Looks good. Probably a lot easier than what I did, having to make the mounts. Wish I was able to get my hands on the tunnel piece you had.

I've been busy... working on my trailer, took the deck off and POR15'd the underside. The trailer was a rusty mess, the entire deck was flaking. I also built a giant compartment under the deck, to keep spare parts in.

I might have to do another rally car. A friend rolled his last month out near seattle. Neon SRT4 with about 350 HP. For a 2wd rally car it's a beast.

Posted by: playr158 Oct 14, 2012 - 8:04 PM

nice work with the oem mounts!!!

Posted by: qatar11 Nov 11, 2012 - 7:21 PM

Not very exciting... been busy with gradschool but here are a few snaps:







I sprayed a bunch of rear end parts after prepping and sealing with POR15 should have those up soon.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Nov 11, 2012 - 8:32 PM

amazing, build, good luck, about the welds, just put a lot of por and undercoating, and nobody will see them.

Posted by: czwalga Nov 19, 2012 - 3:29 PM

You going to sno*drift this year?

Posted by: qatar11 Nov 19, 2012 - 3:41 PM

I am - my Cabin is right down the street from one of the spectator sections. I am hoping to have the car done so I can zip around town in style... need to crash the impromptu Subaru convention with a Celica smile.gif

Posted by: czwalga Nov 19, 2012 - 6:20 PM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Nov 19, 2012 - 4:41 PM) *
I am - my Cabin is right down the street from one of the spectator sections. I am hoping to have the car done so I can zip around town in style... need to crash the impromptu Subaru convention with a Celica smile.gif



Would you and maybe a buddy or two have any interest in crewing for me? Not positive as of right now but it may just be me and my dad making the trip up.

Posted by: qatar11 Dec 2, 2012 - 4:30 PM

Since its effen miserable out side... time to move inside for a while:

The plan is to start with the ST204 Harness on the cabin end and the ST205 harness on the Power End and meet somewhere in the middle... these harness share more connectors and connector locations than not. So, it appears this plan is far less intrusive then hacking the harness and extended the whole thing 40". The most interesting thing so far is blending OBD and Lambda Sensor stuff - that will be the worst I think...




Posted by: qatar11 Dec 16, 2012 - 12:44 PM

Things are far more civilized at this point, next steps are to verify every conductor on every connector, label, tape, ??? , profit!!!


Posted by: equinox92 Jan 7, 2013 - 11:08 PM

Made an account here just to pick your brain!

I live in Waterford, and am going to school in Kalamazoo, so not far from you at all. I was reading a bit of your blog and actually have seen one of your(?) Celicas at LeMons.

My dad and i have built cars before, first one being my first car which was a 93 Mazda MX-3 with a JDM KLZE and Lantis Type R LSD trans, in case you know anything about them (doubt it). Right now i have a 98 Impreza RS with a full JDM STi swap from a clip. Anyways, i could go on forever..

Why i want to pick your brain:

My dad and i want to build an ST202 into basically a GT-Four, but can't find much info on the project as far as what welding and fab work needs to be done. Read through everything and it looks like you're welding in the driveshaft mounts, and was curious as to what other fab work needs to be done to make a GT-Four driveline (or just an AWD drivetrain) work in the Celica's we got in the US. I haven't had much experience welding (Subaru stuff likes to bolt right in) but have done my fair share of wiring (I'm actually a CE/EE student) and swapping before, and the welding is the only thing holding me back from picking up a Celica and importing a GT-Four cut in half.

I guess to shorten it: On a scale of 1-10, how hard is the driveline to stuff in the car. Looks like you've done this sort of thing a few times haha

Awesome build, i'd love to check it out sometime!

Posted by: qatar11 Jan 10, 2013 - 8:16 PM

Hey!

I'll go from the top and just answer away....

Are you going to Western? I have fond memories of partying there during my lax years. I am familiar with the KLZE - I had friend putting that into the older Mazda 6. The 98 Impreza RS sounds like hotness...


So I haven't done any of the hard work yet... I harvested the drive shaft mounts from the front 1/2 of a ST205 clip. Those were easy enough to weld into place as the underside of the car is the same between the ST204 and the ST205... Things get really interesting in the back the sheet metal and structure is completely different.

There are two builds I followed on here who have done successful swaps Steve (look for the rally build) and the other escapes me... anyway... the way the four mounting points of the rear subframe are your points of interest... I plan on using the rear shocks, trailing arm, and drive shaft to locate the rear differential and create mounting blocks... the rear most mounts seem line up with the frame rails in the unibody and won't be a problem... the real bitch will be the other two mounts which fall basically under the rear seats... the sheet metal is very thin there and some kind of support system will be needed here... Steve was able to get around this because he built support for those mount locations into his roll cage....

Anyway... hit me up anytime mjcoury@gmail.com when its gets warmer - you are more then welcome to come out and check out the build and the Lemons car!

Posted by: blackliftback Jan 11, 2013 - 5:11 PM

Are you going with a fuel cell or just modify your spare tire well to fit your oem gas tank/ or gt4 gas tank?

Posted by: qatar11 Jan 11, 2013 - 5:46 PM

QUOTE (blackliftback @ Jan 11, 2013 - 5:11 PM) *
Are you going with a fuel cell or just modify your spare tire well to fit your oem gas tank/ or gt4 gas tank?



I will be going with an FIA rated fuel cell... probably 10 or 15 gallons... depending on the real estate left over. I had the GT4 OE tank but trying to get that to fit behind sub frame without basically removing all of the trunk floor sheet metal was a bit of a non-starter.

Posted by: blackliftback Jan 12, 2013 - 3:23 PM

Why not jus delete spare tire and cut the trunk out?

Posted by: qatar11 Jan 16, 2013 - 12:56 PM

QUOTE (blackliftback @ Jan 12, 2013 - 3:23 PM) *
Why not jus delete spare tire and cut the trunk out?


The spare tire is getting cut out to make room for the fuel cell... the problem with trying to use the OE tank is that all of the OE mounting points are missing and the entire trunk in the ST205 is at least 4-8" shallower than the ST204.... instead of cutting out the entire trunk pan... I am only going to cut out the footprint of the fuel cell.

Posted by: IllIllIll Mar 17, 2013 - 7:28 PM

Looking forward to seeing some progress on this conversion. I've been keeping up on the rally car build as well. I am in the process of swapping a 3sgte in my car. I have gt4 rear suspension & differential setup in the attic. Just need to get a trans with the front diff & drive shaft, & I will be joining the GT4 conversion club. Love to see how you get everything in the back together.

Your work is looking good so far. Keep on with the build.

Posted by: qatar11 Mar 30, 2013 - 1:10 PM

For, lo, the winter is past,
The rain is over and gone;
The flowers appear on the earth;
The time of the singing of birds is come,
And the voice of the turtle is heard in our land.

That has some special meaning for us Detroiters... it also means that the weather has finally broke!

I bought a new rear end setup. The stuff I bought from the UK was completely rusted and f'nasty:



You can seen some of the new gear here:



In other news... got the fuel tank and the rear end out:







I created camera rig to help visualize where the new suspension lands with respect to the original suspension... it will be interesting to see if it worked... won't be able to try this for a few days though.

Posted by: Malek Mar 30, 2013 - 1:16 PM

I am watching this thread like a hawk.

My AWD conversion will start this summer..
In fact, if you get dimensions of your mounts or able to reproduce them. Please let us know haha
No sense in repeating tedious work.
thumbsup.gif

Posted by: presure2 Mar 31, 2013 - 9:11 AM

QUOTE (Malek @ Mar 30, 2013 - 2:16 PM) *
I am watching this thread like a hawk.

My AWD conversion will start this summer..
In fact, if you get dimensions of your mounts or able to reproduce them. Please let us know haha
No sense in repeating tedious work.
thumbsup.gif

theres already a guy selling the rear subframe mounts, and custom fuel cells in the F/S section, just FYI.

Posted by: Malek Mar 31, 2013 - 9:46 AM

QUOTE (presure2 @ Mar 31, 2013 - 9:11 AM) *
QUOTE (Malek @ Mar 30, 2013 - 2:16 PM) *
I am watching this thread like a hawk.

My AWD conversion will start this summer..
In fact, if you get dimensions of your mounts or able to reproduce them. Please let us know haha
No sense in repeating tedious work.
thumbsup.gif

theres already a guy selling the rear subframe mounts, and custom fuel cells in the F/S section, just FYI.


Yeah, I bumped his thread back in February and PMd him multiple times. He (jmeyer) hasn't been on in almost a year..

Posted by: qatar11 Apr 1, 2013 - 5:40 PM

I am not going to get into a discussion about the qualifications of selling homemade fuel cells but there is only one flavor of fuel cell I am interested in: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2501 or equiv.

Posted by: DEATH Apr 4, 2013 - 4:11 PM

Holy $hit Mike - great to see you back working on a real project! I still got a garage full of parts so LMK if you need something and I'll be watching this thread with interest!

Posted by: presure2 Apr 7, 2013 - 10:02 AM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Apr 1, 2013 - 6:40 PM) *
I am not going to get into a discussion about the qualifications of selling homemade fuel cells but there is only one flavor of fuel cell I am interested in: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2501 or equiv.

yea, i would bet that would be your best course of action, i was just pointing out the fact that they were being made.

at any rate, good to see ya still in the game, mike.
even if it is at a snails pace!! LMAO!!!!!! laugh.gif laugh.gif

Posted by: qatar11 Apr 11, 2013 - 7:43 AM

QUOTE (presure2 @ Apr 7, 2013 - 11:02 AM) *
at any rate, good to see ya still in the game, mike.
even if it is at a snails pace!! LMAO!!!!!! laugh.gif laugh.gif


Blow me Manny smile.gif

Posted by: qatar11 Apr 20, 2013 - 4:06 PM

Started test fitting the GT-4 bits in the rear... after talking to Steve I was curious how the rear end lined up between the chassis codes... sub question: did the chassis mount for the trailing arm move between the ST204 and ST205.

I used some wire and a camera platform to locate the camera in the same spot for some before and after shots:









So it looks like we are good here!!

Also note the APEXI lowering springs

QUOTE (DEATH @ Apr 4, 2013 - 5:11 PM) *
Holy $hit Mike - great to see you back working on a real project! I still got a garage full of parts so LMK if you need something and I'll be watching this thread with interest!


Wait.... you are still alive?!

Posted by: Malek Apr 20, 2013 - 5:57 PM

Lookin good thumbsup.gif

That's a pretty cool camera set up

Posted by: presure2 Apr 27, 2013 - 12:06 PM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Apr 11, 2013 - 8:43 AM) *
QUOTE (presure2 @ Apr 7, 2013 - 11:02 AM) *
at any rate, good to see ya still in the game, mike.
even if it is at a snails pace!! LMAO!!!!!! laugh.gif laugh.gif


Blow me Manny smile.gif

smile.gif lookin good mikey!
diggin the cam setup!

Posted by: luka Apr 27, 2013 - 12:27 PM

nice work! so the rear shocks are pretty much the same between the US GT and GT4?

Posted by: qatar11 Apr 29, 2013 - 2:19 PM

QUOTE (luka @ Apr 27, 2013 - 1:27 PM) *
nice work! so the rear shocks are pretty much the same between the US GT and GT4?



Well... it certainly looks the same... but the part numbers for all the bits (Shock / Spring / etc) are all unique to the ST205... so I am guessing that the spring rate / shock performance are specifically tuned.

Posted by: luka Apr 29, 2013 - 3:51 PM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Apr 29, 2013 - 2:19 PM) *
QUOTE (luka @ Apr 27, 2013 - 1:27 PM) *
nice work! so the rear shocks are pretty much the same between the US GT and GT4?



Well... it certainly looks the same... but the part numbers for all the bits (Shock / Spring / etc) are all unique to the ST205... so I am guessing that the spring rate / shock performance are specifically tuned.


cool thanks.

I had pretty much the same plan as you, probably have to make my own subframe mount.

Posted by: qatar11 May 6, 2013 - 11:18 AM



Progress comes slowly....

Posted by: Malek May 6, 2013 - 12:21 PM

Are you missing the top part of the bushings? Only reason I noticed was because one of mine has the rubber completely ripped off.

#4 in the link

http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/oem-part/toyota/celica-parts/1991/all-trac/2-0l-l4-gas/rear-suspension/rear-suspension-mounting/stopper-right/52273-20010

Posted by: qatar11 May 7, 2013 - 8:01 PM

QUOTE (Malek @ May 6, 2013 - 1:21 PM) *
Are you missing the top part of the bushings? Only reason I noticed was because one of mine has the rubber completely ripped off.

#4 in the link

http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/oem-part/toyota/celica-parts/1991/all-trac/2-0l-l4-gas/rear-suspension/rear-suspension-mounting/stopper-right/52273-20010



I think I have all the bits... just not on the subframe at the moment.

Posted by: qatar11 May 7, 2013 - 8:05 PM

Weather has been sick in MI the past two weeks... so progress has been made:




I have a problem with fitment at the moment... the propeller / drive shaft is going past the connection point to the rear diff as if the rear diff is about 1/2" too far forward... not sure what to make of it yet...






Obligatory spare tire space delete upgrade (adds lightness)



I thought maybe the spare tire sheetmetal was getting in the way but that was not the culprit...

Posted by: Malek May 7, 2013 - 8:12 PM

I swear I'm not stalking your thread tongue.gif

But I got a tip from czwalga that if you use the gt4 arms, it moves the subframe up 1/2".

Try the GT arms?

Posted by: qatar11 May 7, 2013 - 8:15 PM

QUOTE (Malek @ May 7, 2013 - 9:12 PM) *
I swear I'm not stalking your thread tongue.gif

But I got a tip from czwalga that if you use the gt4 arms, it moves the subframe up 1/2".

Try the GT arms?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqQ99s4Ywnw

Posted by: blackliftback May 8, 2013 - 11:45 PM

Lol love the vid hahahahah... Keep up the good work

Posted by: qatar11 May 9, 2013 - 6:24 AM

As hinted by Malek (What is your name, anyway?) Steve (czwalga) had a similar problem with fitment. Between making his own drive shaft mounts and using the GT trailing arms which are longer, he is able to make it all fit. I have reached out to a few local shops that can shorten the drive shaft a scoush. Hopefully I can get some precise measurements over the weekend and get that going on Monday.

Posted by: czwalga May 9, 2013 - 6:39 AM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ May 9, 2013 - 6:24 AM) *
As hinted by Malek (What is your name, anyway?) Steve (czwalga) had a similar problem with fitment. Between making his own drive shaft mounts and using the GT trailing arms which are longer, he is able to make it all fit. I have reached out to a few local shops that can shorten the drive shaft a scoush. Hopefully I can get some precise measurements over the weekend and get that going on Monday.




FYI I did not use GT trailing arms. I did use the GT4 arms.



My suggestion is unbolt the driveshaft. Just get the first part that goes into the transmission and take a rubber mallet and see if you can pound it in any further.



Posted by: Malek May 9, 2013 - 8:56 AM

My name is actually Malek laugh.gif
If pounding the small end doesn't work, you weren't planning on cutting the center and having it rewelded were you? I'm not sure if there many more options but I really don't want to do that on mine haha

Posted by: qatar11 May 11, 2013 - 9:30 AM

Whelp... there is more room that the drive shaft can go into the trans, ~ 17 mm or so... and that's with the slots on the mount fully consumed... However I think that is by design so you can remove this part of the drive shaft without disrupting the entire drive line for Trans work, etc....




However, I cannot buy that I missed locating the drive shaft mounts that much - especially since they are formed to the sheet metal of the car - they just would not have laid down well enough to weld in the wrong location.


So as my old middle school wood shop teacher used to say, "Measure twice and cut once" - I put the wheel on to see how it looked in the wheel well and... all I can say is no mi gusta:



I think I am going to back away from the drive shaft shortening idea and return to the trailing arm length conspiracy theories - I, of course, busted the bolt trying to harvest my GT ones so I think its a trip to car-parts.com.

I wouldn't wish working on a 15+ year old midwestern car on my worstest of enemies (Ya that's right - worstest)

Posted by: czwalga May 13, 2013 - 6:58 AM

Mike,

Keep in mind that there is 3 unibody sections. Front is the same between GT4/GT. The middle and rear sections of the unibody are not the same, so where you welded the mounts may not be the same location on the gt4, even if it did seem to fit into place.



Posted by: Special_Edy May 13, 2013 - 7:36 AM

Its says in the specs for the GT4 that the european models have a 5mm longer wheelbase - http://gtfours.co.uk/stuff/facts/205/facts.htm

Posted by: qatar11 May 13, 2013 - 8:42 AM

QUOTE (czwalga @ May 13, 2013 - 7:58 AM) *
Keep in mind that there is 3 unibody sections. Front is the same between GT4/GT. The middle and rear sections of the unibody are not the same, so where you welded the mounts may not be the same location on the gt4, even if it did seem to fit into place.

This is true... but what is forcing the rear subfram so far forward is the trailing arms.. and I think that is just the fact that, as you said, the unibody in the back is not the same. I am going to try to get some GT arms and see what that does for the position. I am also entertaining the idea of using turnbuckles here.


QUOTE (Special_Edy @ May 13, 2013 - 8:36 AM) *
Its says in the specs for the GT4 that the european models have a 5mm longer wheelbase - http://gtfours.co.uk/stuff/facts/205/facts.htm

This is interesting but I think i need to move the subframe back inches... not millimeters.... but you'd be surprised how much a few mm maters smile.gif


Also... its absolutely criminal that these are buried under the intercooler

Posted by: Malek May 13, 2013 - 9:02 AM

Before you spring into GT arms, let me compare mine. I have both the GT and GT4 arms. I'll see how much of a difference there is.

Idk about you, but I hate buying something when it ends up not working haha

You're complaining about the spark plugs under the intercooler? Don't ever get a Subaru laugh.gif

Posted by: czwalga May 13, 2013 - 1:01 PM

I've done the measurement between the GT4 and GT trailing arms. Remember to measure hole to hole, not the length of the arm itself. I think the arm lengths are similar, but the holes are in slightly different locations. It's been a while so I cant remember.


The CV joint can move in and out a little, so that can account for some of the slop. You really dont need much to seperate it. 1/4" at most. In all of my rwd cars, the driveshaft fits pretty damn tight with the rear differential. Kinda similar in this case as well after I made the mounts.

You really want to slide the driveshaft over the tailshaft of the transmission as much as possible as there's more spline engagement. Although we're talking relatively low HP here so it probably will be near the bottom of the list of things to fail.

Posted by: qatar11 May 13, 2013 - 2:35 PM

QUOTE (czwalga @ May 13, 2013 - 2:01 PM) *
I've done the measurement between the GT4 and GT trailing arms. Remember to measure hole to hole, not the length of the arm itself. I think the arm lengths are similar, but the holes are in slightly different locations. It's been a while so I cant remember.


The CV joint can move in and out a little, so that can account for some of the slop. You really dont need much to seperate it. 1/4" at most. In all of my rwd cars, the driveshaft fits pretty damn tight with the rear differential. Kinda similar in this case as well after I made the mounts.

You really want to slide the driveshaft over the tailshaft of the transmission as much as possible as there's more spline engagement. Although we're talking relatively low HP here so it probably will be near the bottom of the list of things to fail.



You know what is a concern of mine right now is the wheel location in the wheel well - it is well forward... I took the spring off so i could compress the strut and see where the wheel lands at a more realistic height. If the wheel lands in a good spot - I can maybe elongate the center drive shaft mount holes and just eat up some of the difference in the trans....

Posted by: qatar11 May 13, 2013 - 10:31 PM

What the hell is the point of a gasket overhaul kit if you do not include all the gaskets?! ZOMGWTFBBQCHUCKNORRIS
...
<pulls hair out>
...
<orders **** from England>
...

Posted by: celica95-95 May 15, 2013 - 11:18 AM

I have been looking at the diff with st202 vs st205 to make AWD ,

i seen u have the rear clip as well!

Did u change frame rails in the rear ? as well did it come with gas tank?

I think the frame rails in the rear need to be change to line up your rear sub-frame

Posted by: qatar11 May 15, 2013 - 11:20 AM

QUOTE (celica95-95 @ May 15, 2013 - 12:18 PM) *
I have been looking at the diff with st202 vs st205 to make AWD ,
I seen u have the rear clip as well!
Did u change frame rails in the rear ? as well did it come with gas tank?
I think the frame rails in the rear need to be change to line up your rear sub-frame


All will be answered soon!

Posted by: czwalga May 15, 2013 - 12:26 PM

QUOTE (celica95-95 @ May 15, 2013 - 12:18 PM) *
I have been looking at the diff with st202 vs st205 to make AWD ,

i seen u have the rear clip as well!

Did u change frame rails in the rear ? as well did it come with gas tank?

I think the frame rails in the rear need to be change to line up your rear sub-frame



GT4 gas tank is useless for a st202.

Posted by: celica95-95 May 15, 2013 - 1:55 PM

really ! so what did u have to use ?

could you not drill out trunk floor and use that with the frame rail ? would equal a factory like swap ?
or is the body diff as well in the middle ?

when u change yours to AWD did u just cut car and weld ? from roof to rear bumper ?

Posted by: czwalga May 15, 2013 - 2:41 PM

QUOTE (celica95-95 @ May 15, 2013 - 1:55 PM) *
really ! so what did u have to use ?

could you not drill out trunk floor and use that with the frame rail ? would equal a factory like swap ?
or is the body diff as well in the middle ?

when u change yours to AWD did u just cut car and weld ? from roof to rear bumper ?




I cut the spare tire well out and it still fit like ****... The entire floor of the ST202 is lower, not to mention the fact that the filler tube would have to be some kind of custom setup. Much cheaper to just make your own.


I have a FIA fuel cell, which is pricey, but only because its required for rally. You could do a cheap fuel cell setup built to specifications that fit the space you're working with. Without replacing the back 2/3rds of the shell nothing you could do to make it a factory swap. Somethings are going to have to custom. There's different options on how to get there, but nothing will be like factory.

Posted by: celica95-95 May 15, 2013 - 2:59 PM

good to know !

so getting a rear clip is not the best pick to go AWD ?

what about the rear sub frame to line your's did you drill new holes

Posted by: czwalga May 15, 2013 - 3:00 PM

QUOTE (celica95-95 @ May 15, 2013 - 2:59 PM) *
good to know !

so getting a rear clip is not the best pick to go AWD ?



The clip may help just cause you have more in case you decide to do something different. All i had was all the critical mechanical parts, made everything else.


The car isn't like legos, whatever you decide its going to take some custom fab.

Posted by: celica95-95 May 15, 2013 - 3:11 PM

yea i was just hopping toyota didn't change the frame that much i could do it more like factory , but the info is good !!
I don't mine doing custom work, but is more now $$

Posted by: mkernz22 May 15, 2013 - 3:14 PM

Looking good so far, hope you get it all worked out!

As for celica95-95, you live in toronto...why didn't you just buy a GT4?

Posted by: celica95-95 May 15, 2013 - 4:24 PM

dont what RHD

Posted by: mkernz22 May 15, 2013 - 4:29 PM

QUOTE (celica95-95 @ May 15, 2013 - 5:24 PM) *
dont what RHD


I feel like a LHD swap would be much easier than an AWD swap

Posted by: celica95-95 May 15, 2013 - 4:37 PM

yea was thinking thats as well

still work either way

Posted by: qatar11 May 16, 2013 - 11:41 AM

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ May 15, 2013 - 5:29 PM) *
QUOTE (celica95-95 @ May 15, 2013 - 5:24 PM) *
dont what RHD

I feel like a LHD swap would be much easier than an AWD swap

You forgot the VIN swap.. which, I think, is a Federal offense smile.gif

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 5, 2013 - 9:16 PM

Sew.... As I sort out the adjustable length trailing rods and I wait for a gasket from the UK, I turn to the steering rack:







Today I learned that the ST204 steering rack (at least the USDM one) is significantly smaller then its ST205 (JDM) counterpart. So the immediate options that spring to mind are longer inner tie rods from God-Knows-Where or a LHD ST205 steering rack... which should be a little like hunting for a unicorn...



I shoulda bought a STi


Also, I found out my spare GT steering rack (pictured) is all jacked up (see input from steering wheel) - so thanks a lot to the jack-hole I bought it from on here (whose name escapes me)

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 6, 2013 - 8:37 AM

I wonder if I can just flip it around....

Posted by: playr158 Jun 6, 2013 - 9:11 AM

Mounting is different between Kframe for RHD and LHD steering racks.
For my RHD conversion i used RHD K frame, RHD rack and pinion, mcpherson inner and outter tie rods
and flipping it won't work cause the column to rack mount is offset on the system.

are you staying LHD and using SS suspension?
I would just keep the mcpherson stuff.....sooooo much easier

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 6, 2013 - 9:34 AM

QUOTE (playr158 @ Jun 6, 2013 - 10:11 AM) *
Mounting is different between Kframe for RHD and LHD steering racks.
For my RHD conversion i used RHD K frame, RHD rack and pinion, mcpherson inner and outter tie rods
and flipping it won't work cause the column to rack mount is offset on the system.

are you staying LHD and using SS suspension?
I would just keep the mcpherson stuff.....sooooo much easier


What do you mean "mounting is different" ?

Are you saying the rack is not centered on the subframe?

Also - I am staying LHD and SS Suspension because I have some nice suspension bits I want to use...

Posted by: czwalga Jun 6, 2013 - 9:55 AM

Mike are you guys doing Lemons at hyperfest in WV? next weekend? Still debating if i'm going down or not.

Posted by: Smaay Jun 6, 2013 - 11:02 AM

awesome build up man! im enjoying the pics

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jun 6, 2013 - 2:01 PM

a rhd subframe has different mounting points for steering rack.

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 6, 2013 - 2:18 PM

QUOTE (czwalga @ Jun 6, 2013 - 10:55 AM) *
Mike are you guys doing Lemons at hyperfest in WV? next weekend? Still debating if i'm going down or not.


Nah - the Lemons car is under a tarp until the GT-FOUR is done. Race car will be re-started over the weekend - the cage rules have matured and on top of the blown engine I have to update the cage.

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 7, 2013 - 7:34 PM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 6, 2013 - 3:01 PM) *
a rhd subframe has different mounting points for steering rack.



Bonzai -

This is not true according to the EPC

51201-20310

02/1994-07/1995 ST205L-BLMVZW TBO4W, EUR, LB, LHD, 3SGTE, MTM 51-02
02/1994-07/1995 ST205R-BLMVZW TBO4W, EUR, LB, RHD, 3SGTE, MTM 51-02


I did, however, confirm that the Cross Member Sub Assembly is different between the ST204 and the ST205 - most notably where the steering rack is mounted... which might explain all the pain getting the AWD trans into my car... Seeeew At the risk of changing the angle in which the rack and tie-rods operate, I think the working plan will be to flip the steering rack around / find a LHD GT-FOUR steering rack.

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 8, 2013 - 1:40 PM

flipping the steering rack doesn't work - the input to the rack points the wrong way - obviously... So it looks like I have 3 options remaining...

Buy a LHD steering rack from Toyota new (price coming)
Find inner tie rods that are a little longer than SS inner tie rods
Ditch the SS suspension

Ditching the SS suspension is fine... except now I don't have off the shelf solutions for suspension and I have to figure out how to mount the calipers...

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jun 8, 2013 - 2:42 PM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Jun 8, 2013 - 1:40 PM) *
Find inner tie rods that are a little longer than SS inner tie rods



why not use sleeves like old celicas do...


Posted by: qatar11 Jun 8, 2013 - 4:13 PM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Jun 8, 2013 - 3:42 PM) *
QUOTE (qatar11 @ Jun 8, 2013 - 1:40 PM) *
Find inner tie rods that are a little longer than SS inner tie rods



why not use sleeves like old celicas do...




Maybe? Will have to look into it.

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 10, 2013 - 8:52 PM

She's cleans up nice...






PSA of the day:

When using compressed air to removed seized caliper pistons, do not point the caliper towards your car window. Luckily it bounced off some other soft metals before making it to the windshield... all is well. So i plug the holes with some cork gasket and I (after the first 2) fire the piston into a cardboard box - which flies across the garage... Good stuff...



WRT: the rack. After lots and lots and lots of internet research - it turns out the refurb people in Europe have the same internal part number for the ST18X as the ST205... Soooo I have one of those coming (should be here tomorrow) woot.gif Fingers crossed..

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 11, 2013 - 9:37 PM

to the surprise of no one I'm sure, the ST184 steering rack does not fit.


Posted by: qatar11 Jun 17, 2013 - 10:13 AM

And we have adjustable control arms!! (no this is not the permanent solution)


Posted by: njccmd2002 Jun 17, 2013 - 11:24 PM

Why not buy the ones from techno toy tuning. They might fit

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 18, 2013 - 7:50 AM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Jun 18, 2013 - 12:24 AM) *
Why not buy the ones from techno toy tuning. They might fit

The short answer is they did not come up when googling for adjustable control (suspension) arms... and when I reached out to a small shop - I got a pretty uninspired response, so I am going to make my own.

Posted by: playr158 Jun 18, 2013 - 12:38 PM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Jun 7, 2013 - 8:34 PM) *
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 6, 2013 - 3:01 PM) *
a rhd subframe has different mounting points for steering rack.

Bonzai -
This is not true according to the EPC

I did, however, confirm that the Cross Member Sub Assembly is different between the ST204 and the ST205 - most notably where the steering rack is mounted... which might explain all the pain getting the AWD trans into my car... Seeeew At the risk of changing the angle in which the rack and tie-rods operate, I think the working plan will be to flip the steering rack around / find a LHD GT-FOUR steering rack.


So what I tried to tell you earlier you now found out laugh.gif
you can't flip the steering rack around :facepalm: and you can't use a USDM rack on a GT4 cross member.
If you want to stay LHD and use the GT4 subframe you need to source a LHD GT4 rack.
or you could use the ST04 subframe and your OEM steering rack and mount that.....

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 19, 2013 - 12:37 PM

QUOTE (playr158 @ Jun 18, 2013 - 1:38 PM) *
So what I tried to tell you earlier you now found out laugh.gif
you can't flip the steering rack around :facepalm: and you can't use a USDM rack on a GT4 cross member.
If you want to stay LHD and use the GT4 subframe you need to source a LHD GT4 rack.
or you could use the ST04 subframe and your OEM steering rack and mount that.....



Agreed. Flipping the steering rack was a pretty horrible assumption.

I have the both racks in front of me (GT & GT4) and the GT one is shorter and I think the GT one sits a little differently on the sub frame... from the internet it looks like a LHD GT4 steering rack is a bit of a spotted unicorn. so using the GT steering rack I would have to make? some inner tie rods that can absorb the shorter rack...

Posted by: qatar11 Aug 26, 2013 - 8:25 AM

Just some sausage making here:




I have some inner tie rods I am going to try that are longer than the OE ST205 ones, which should compensate for the ST204 rack being shorter. Film at eleven.

Posted by: czwalga Aug 26, 2013 - 10:27 AM

Wow those look nice.

Posted by: playr158 Sep 10, 2013 - 4:28 PM

Did you ever figure out your steering rack issues?

Since i'm RHD now, I'm using the GT4 rack + USDM tie rods.
However i'm pretty sure my tie rods are now ~3" total (1.5" maybe each side) too long kindasad.gif

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 11, 2013 - 7:50 PM

QUOTE (playr158 @ Sep 10, 2013 - 5:28 PM) *
Did you ever figure out your steering rack issues?

Since i'm RHD now, I'm using the GT4 rack + USDM tie rods.
However i'm pretty sure my tie rods are now ~3" total (1.5" maybe each side) too long kindasad.gif


Funny you mentioned that.... I have (tentatively) figured out a solution to the steering rack issue. I measured everything up:



figured out that the ST204 Rack was ~3" shorter than the ST205 rack... so I took the ST205 inner tie rod to the local auto shop (the good kind, where you trip on engine blocks on the ground and the guy never answers his phone so you have to go in personally) and I asked for an inner tie rod but ~1.74 inches longer.

one week later... wa-la-presto:



I'm in the process of getting the sleeves that slide into the control arms and I should have some test fitting photos of the SS suspension installed smile.gif

@player - I think what you need to do is the opposite... take your inner tie rod to a good auto shop and ask for something shorter.... then you can send me your original inner tie rods so I can have spares for the race car. Or... cut it down... and re tap the end... also an option

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 11, 2013 - 8:00 PM

Also... W2A Intercooler pump test fitted:




Posted by: playr158 Sep 11, 2013 - 9:00 PM

Nice work dude!

Yea I believe I need to do the opposite of you, so i'm going to cut mine down biggrin.gif

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 11, 2013 - 11:08 PM

awesomesauce thats what you need to do playr158 as well as i. qatar how much did they charge you. some people said 2 inches shorter but muaha finally we have exact number 1.74 inches shorter for usdm inner and outter tie rod for those that want to put superstrut on the lhd american celica's

Posted by: playr158 Sep 12, 2013 - 10:49 AM

Bonzai you're confused

USDM LHD + SSS = ~1.74 inches longer inner tie rods

JDM RHD + McPherson = shorter inner tie rods (ST205 rack + USDM tie rods)

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Sep 12, 2013 - 10:27 PM

QUOTE (playr158 @ Sep 12, 2013 - 10:49 AM) *
Bonzai you're confused

USDM LHD + SSS = ~1.74 inches longer inner tie rods

JDM RHD + McPherson = shorter inner tie rods (ST205 rack + USDM tie rods)


qatar is there any way you can split open the usdm rack and superstrut to see if you can calculate which has a slower or quicker turning ratio. im just curious too see why toyota made one longer than the other..

proof or usdm guys will always run around with our heads cut off. why I say this is due to these almost good opinion and facts
you say too long others say too short, but what does that mean We need picks so we can clarify. If whatever set up they have is too long or too short the tie rods shouldn't even bolt into the knuckles right!?

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=89939&st=0&gopid=1024912&#entry1024912

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 13, 2013 - 11:02 AM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Sep 12, 2013 - 11:27 PM) *
qatar is there any way you can split open the usdm rack and superstrut to see if you can calculate which has a slower or quicker turning ratio. im just curious too see why toyota made one longer than the other..


Erm... I might be able to? I am also very curious as to why they went with a different steering rack. It is a non-trivial change too because it forced Toyota make a different front sub frame despite the fact the SS suspension and McPherson suspensions are completely interchangeable... I wonder if they were going for the shortest inner tie rod length possible for strength or some kind of geometry advantage.. I did a fair amount of poking around and the ST205 steering rack is unique to the ST205 as far as I could tell... so its not being used on any other Toyota car...

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Sep 12, 2013 - 11:27 PM) *
proof or usdm guys will always run around with our heads cut off. why I say this is due to these almost good opinion and facts
you say too long others say too short, but what does that mean We need picks so we can clarify. If whatever set up they have is too long or too short the tie rods shouldn't even bolt into the knuckles right!?


This, I think is the fundamental flaw with using a forum as a repository for information... over a more organized and searchable system like a wiki. I approached a few guys on here many moons ago about setting up a wiki for all this content... I also reached out to coomer dog-years ago because I wanted to data mine the forums as part of building the wiki but I didn't want to be perceived as "stealing" anything <shrug>.. still would be great to do...

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 13, 2013 - 5:55 PM

Just looked in the notebook

Length of the ST205 steering rack = 24 6/16 +/- 1/16
Length of the ST204 steering rack = 21 1/16 +/- 1/16

Try to remember that the measuring was.... less than laboratory grade.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 13, 2013 - 11:28 PM

Started the templates for the rear subframe mounting...






Posted by: njccmd2002 Sep 14, 2013 - 5:19 PM

do you think cardboard will be strong enough confused.gif ?


LOL, whish u good luck..

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 15, 2013 - 9:19 AM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 14, 2013 - 6:19 PM) *
do you think cardboard will be strong enough confused.gif ?


I sure hope so....














I am trying to use the existing subfram mounts as a way to provide a common mounting point for both brackets to gain an understanding of the positing of the sub-frame in terms of its centeredness.... it seemed to work and I had both rear sub-frame brackets installed and the rear sub-frame located... the forward sub-frame mounts are a much more interesting challenge.

Posted by: enderswift Sep 15, 2013 - 11:37 AM

I like your approach to this. Using the rear trailing arms and struts to locate the gt4 subframe still leaves room error, but adding this step ensures you have everything lined up on both sides. What thought process did you go through to decide on how tall the new mounts should be?

Posted by: Malek Sep 15, 2013 - 12:25 PM

I'll be updating my thread here soon with a few pictures, but i had the same basic approach. I installed the driveshaft and rear end to line everything up. Took some rough relative measurements and threw a design up in solidworks.

For the front mounts, I designed something a little less bulky than building an entire box across the floor pan. I made use of some engineering classes and designed mounts using tubing and triangulation.

Posted by: presure2 Sep 15, 2013 - 12:40 PM

QUOTE (Malek @ Sep 15, 2013 - 1:25 PM) *
I'll be updating my thread here soon with a few pictures, but i had the same basic approach. I installed the driveshaft and rear end to line everything up. Took some rough relative measurements and threw a design up in solidworks.

For the front mounts, I designed something a little less bulky than building an entire box across the floor pan. I made use of some engineering classes and designed mounts using tubing and triangulation.


thats pretty much the best way to set it all up IMO.
kinda lines everything up for you. lol

really digging the mount work, mikey. looks like your on your way!
are you planning on producing these on a "one off" kinda deal, or will they be somthing you'll share with the community?

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 15, 2013 - 12:42 PM

QUOTE (Malek @ Sep 15, 2013 - 1:25 PM) *
For the front mounts, I designed something a little less bulky than building an entire box across the floor pan. I made use of some engineering classes and designed mounts using tubing and triangulation.


What are you thinking... the sheet metal is too thin to support mounting directly to it... the frame rail on the passenger side is accessible but the driver side has the fuel and brake lines coming down.... color me interested.

Posted by: czwalga Sep 15, 2013 - 12:50 PM

Are you doing it so you dont have to weld them in? Use the old mounting holes to bolt an adapter plate? to which the new subframe bolts to.

Good idea. Welding under there is a little tight.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 15, 2013 - 1:05 PM

QUOTE (czwalga @ Sep 15, 2013 - 1:50 PM) *
Are you doing it so you dont have to weld them in? Use the old mounting holes to bolt an adapter plate? to which the new subframe bolts to.

Good idea. Welding under there is a little tight.



That's what I'm thinking.. if the frame rail is thick enough, I can drill a hole and capture the "back" part of the new bracket - I would feel pretty good about that arrangement.

Posted by: Malek Sep 21, 2013 - 8:40 PM

QUOTE (qatar11 @ Sep 15, 2013 - 1:42 PM) *
QUOTE (Malek @ Sep 15, 2013 - 1:25 PM) *
For the front mounts, I designed something a little less bulky than building an entire box across the floor pan. I made use of some engineering classes and designed mounts using tubing and triangulation.


What are you thinking... the sheet metal is too thin to support mounting directly to it... the frame rail on the passenger side is accessible but the driver side has the fuel and brake lines coming down.... color me interested.


These are the pictures just from my build thread. They were taken during the process. It gives you a good idea though.

Passenger side. There's a plate welded to the frame rail where the tubing is welded.
http://s840.photobucket.com/user/malek6GC/media/DARKSPYRO/20130919_164642_zps99e0ffb8.jpg.html

The hoop goes up and over and welds to the two mounting points, the point at the top (after the picture was taken) and two points in the tunnel
http://s840.photobucket.com/user/malek6GC/media/DARKSPYRO/20130919_164653_zps275f5af5.jpg.html

This is the driver side. Dropped the lines, though there is plenty of space to run them between the tube and the body if wanted.
http://s840.photobucket.com/user/malek6GC/media/DARKSPYRO/20130919_164711_zps6a85c69a.jpg.html

The rear mounts are basically the same style. Just two boxes welded to the frame rail.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 22, 2013 - 8:59 PM




Posted by: Malek Sep 22, 2013 - 10:22 PM

I know, doesn't seem like much holding it in there haha but I see the actual bolts/fasteners failing long before the mounts. The tubing used is dom 1.625x.120 and .125 plates for the frame rails. I did some stress tests in SolidWorks and felt pretty confident with the set up even though I don't think the fronts will be tied to the rears like I wanted them to.

If everything breaks on the first launch..well, back to the drawing board haha

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 23, 2013 - 6:54 AM

QUOTE (Malek @ Sep 22, 2013 - 11:22 PM) *
I know, doesn't seem like much holding it in there haha but I see the actual bolts/fasteners failing long before the mounts. The tubing used is dom 1.625x.120 and .125 plates for the frame rails. I did some stress tests in SolidWorks and felt pretty confident with the set up even though I don't think the fronts will be tied to the rears like I wanted them to.

If everything breaks on the first launch..well, back to the drawing board haha



Dude.. it looks solid... I never thought to use DOM tubing like that under the car.

Posted by: czwalga Sep 23, 2013 - 8:03 AM

Sure you did. I used DOM right there too; mine just comes through the floor and up to the cage haha.


I think thatll be plenty strong.

Posted by: Malek Sep 23, 2013 - 8:40 AM

thumbsup.gif

I'm working out a forum deal with the owner, Hank to get these produced as a weld-in ready kit. He has the bend profile saved in his mandrel bender and all the dimensions for the mounts. Here's his site http://www.hanksvillehotrods.com/Projects/RollBarCageProjects/tabid/588/Default.aspx

They've done some crazy builds. Top notch guys too. They actually like when the customers stop in and watch the work being done. I'm sure they'll do just that front part for you if you wanted.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 24, 2013 - 6:28 PM

QUOTE (Malek @ Sep 23, 2013 - 9:40 AM) *
thumbsup.gif

I'm working out a forum deal with the owner, Hank to get these produced as a weld-in ready kit. He has the bend profile saved in his mandrel bender and all the dimensions for the mounts. Here's his site http://www.hanksvillehotrods.com/Projects/RollBarCageProjects/tabid/588/Default.aspx

They've done some crazy builds. Top notch guys too. They actually like when the customers stop in and watch the work being done. I'm sure they'll do just that front part for you if you wanted.

Bend profile saved in his mandrel bender? You are cheating! smile.gif Seriously though... you should probably PM me so I can get one of those...

And now for something completely different:

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 26, 2013 - 6:39 AM

Something funny happened last night.....

I got to the end of the book:



Tens years later.... I didn't really know what to do with myself...

Posted by: czwalga Sep 26, 2013 - 7:18 AM

When that book ends you drive it... think of stuff you should have done differently, let it sit around and sell it.

Happened with my rx7.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 26, 2013 - 10:50 AM

QUOTE (czwalga @ Sep 26, 2013 - 8:18 AM) *
When that book ends you drive it... think of stuff you should have done differently, let it sit around and sell it.


Speaking of... you should probably change your signature.

Posted by: qatar11 Oct 2, 2013 - 6:40 AM

Just a minor update as I am fighting with swapping wheel bearings on the tacoma...

- a pair of the inner tie rods are in hand
- EBC Reds for the GT4 brakes are en route (cross listed with the Supra TT)
- OE Brake Rotors, front and rear, are en route from the UK

I think I found the fuel cell I want to use - its technically "out of date" (it would need to be re-certified for racing) but its discounted nicely.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10514&quot;%5dFuel%20Safe%2012%20Gallon

Should have more after this weekend...

Posted by: czwalga Oct 8, 2013 - 1:43 PM

You wouldnt have any spare E-brake cables laying around would you. The aluminum housing that bolts to the knuckle is destroyed on the drivers side.

Posted by: presure2 Oct 12, 2013 - 3:19 PM

QUOTE (czwalga @ Oct 8, 2013 - 2:43 PM) *
You wouldnt have any spare E-brake cables laying around would you. The aluminum housing that bolts to the knuckle is destroyed on the drivers side.

just FYI, i just recently replaced jenns, ended up picking them up from rockauto. they are pretty cheap, IIRC ~30$ a side.

Posted by: qatar11 Oct 23, 2013 - 5:03 PM

The me of 2013 is strongly questioning why the me of 2003 felt it was necessary to completely disassemble this relay box... God only knows where those relays ended up...




Posted by: qatar11 Oct 23, 2013 - 5:03 PM

weird duplicate

Posted by: playr158 Oct 24, 2013 - 9:55 AM

I find myself saying the EXACT same thing.....

what was my previous self thinking when he took this crap apart and where did it all go?!

laugh.gif

Posted by: qatar11 Oct 29, 2013 - 8:50 PM

On the right an OE ST185 Flywheel, on the left, a OE but lightened ST205 Flywheel... just a tad bit of surface rust that appears to be coming off nicely... (also pictured, BC Coil Overs and an ACT Clutch Kit)



Like I said, the rust is coming off nicely with some 0 Steel wool and some WD-40. I think I may still get the surface gently kissed - we'll see.


Posted by: creis Oct 31, 2013 - 2:16 PM

killer build thus far man.

Posted by: qatar11 Nov 6, 2013 - 7:20 PM

Seeewwww:

Made some progress tonight, got the steering rack out (from the cabin - the whatever on the engine bay side wasn't going anywhere). popped the inner tie rods off and test fitted the new inner tie rods:


Here is a photo of the part number of the tie rod that *should* adapt the US-LHD rack to the superstrut suspension:

Posted by: qatar11 Nov 6, 2013 - 7:23 PM

Back in the bat cave:




And that was with NO scrubbing....

I gave them all a good scrubbing and dropped them back in for another hour or so - should be finished tonight!

Posted by: playr158 Nov 7, 2013 - 1:53 PM

loooking goood!

Posted by: enderswift Nov 7, 2013 - 6:57 PM

What cleaner is that?

Posted by: qatar11 Nov 7, 2013 - 9:59 PM

QUOTE (enderswift @ Nov 7, 2013 - 6:57 PM) *
What cleaner is that?




It is ZEP industrial purple. I boiled a two gallons or so of water, dropped that into the bucket along with a quart or two of cleaner and sealed it up... obvious warnings about the fumes when cracking that thing...

Posted by: qatar11 Dec 4, 2013 - 6:32 PM

From the UK with love...


Front wheel bearings and rear shim kit...

Posted by: Terzin1 Dec 6, 2013 - 12:13 AM

I just found this topic and I must say WOW. I wish I had an 8th of the balls to start a project like this. Then again, I also wish I had and 8th of the garage, or any garage at all.

Posted by: czwalga Dec 6, 2013 - 11:28 AM

Did you ever sandlbast the hubs/kunckles? I'm thinking of buying a sandblasting cabinet.

Posted by: qatar11 Dec 6, 2013 - 4:34 PM

QUOTE (Terzin1 @ Dec 6, 2013 - 12:13 AM) *
I just found this topic and I must say WOW. I wish I had an 8th of the balls to start a project like this. Then again, I also wish I had and 8th of the garage, or any garage at all.


Thanks man smile.gif in terms of insane car projects - I think this one isn't so bad... 90% of the car is plug and play... my biggest issues are buying parts from Europe and the cost of those parts...

QUOTE (czwalga @ Dec 6, 2013 - 11:28 AM) *
Did you ever sandlbast the hubs/kunckles? I'm thinking of buying a sandblasting cabinet.



My hubs / knuckles are good... I highly recommend the cabinet but get a 60 gallon compressor with 100> cfm at 100 psi


Posted by: czwalga Dec 6, 2013 - 8:51 PM

What did you sandblast? Pics of before and after? I have a decent 60 gallon compressor.

Posted by: playr158 Dec 7, 2013 - 8:26 AM

I sandblasted/powder coated my hubs and knuckles.
I also did it without a cabinet lol. Completely worth doing, however if you send it off to powder coat they'll sandblast them anyways. If youre not going to powdercoat, no point in sandblasting

Posted by: czwalga Dec 20, 2013 - 9:23 AM

Did you send me stickers of a transam with a cowboy on them?

Posted by: qatar11 Dec 31, 2013 - 9:24 AM

QUOTE (czwalga @ Dec 20, 2013 - 9:23 AM) *
Did you send me stickers of a transam with a cowboy on them?

Put them on your car, that's the price of the parts.

Posted by: qatar11 Sep 8, 2014 - 11:33 AM

Brake Restoration is in full swing:












Posted by: qatar11 Sep 8, 2014 - 11:41 AM

Literally 10 years in the making:










Posted by: qatar11 Oct 7, 2014 - 7:39 PM

New rear caliper pistons from TCB:



Red Ones go faster?



Also... got the engine and trans together...




Posted by: qatar11 Jan 17, 2015 - 5:37 PM

Just a small update:

I had to add threads to the off the shelf ARP bolts... I actually arranged to get custom bolts made but I couldn't find any online shops who wanted to buy a few sets to get the volume up <shrug>













Nice Before and After...





Next step is to add the white paint to the raised lettering and these will be ready to mount...

Posted by: RedSunCelica Jan 22, 2015 - 7:53 PM

wow nice job so far. i remember hearing about you trying this way back in the day.

Posted by: qatar11 Jan 24, 2015 - 10:26 PM

Some work on the brake lines... lots of before and afters...


Getting the soak on...

24 Hours later....



Primed and painted



Before and After

Posted by: njccmd2002 Jan 25, 2015 - 2:17 AM

Is that paint good enough for brake fluid. Eastwood sells one perfect for brake fluid

Posted by: qatar11 Jan 25, 2015 - 9:00 AM

QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Jan 25, 2015 - 2:17 AM) *
Is that paint good enough for brake fluid. Eastwood sells one perfect for brake fluid


Fantastic question... I'll test that out before I do the other ones... its just highish temp engine paint.

Posted by: Nial Jan 25, 2015 - 10:04 AM

You could overpaint with a brake fluid resistant lacquere.

Posted by: igpx12 Jan 25, 2015 - 8:22 PM

What did you use to clean them up with?

Posted by: qatar11 Feb 3, 2015 - 7:48 AM








Posted by: qatar11 Feb 3, 2015 - 9:44 PM

Great Success!


Posted by: enderswift Feb 3, 2015 - 10:20 PM

looks great but, why not aftermarket lines?

Posted by: qatar11 Feb 4, 2015 - 6:51 AM

QUOTE (enderswift @ Feb 3, 2015 - 10:20 PM) *
looks great but, why not aftermarket lines?



Based on reading forums over at GT4OC, I haven't found a reliable source for these... I'm not convinced anyone still makes an aftermarket set.... Also, this was was a good price (i.e. free)

Posted by: qatar11 May 25, 2015 - 6:46 AM

Whelp... this happened over the weekend...




I actually lifted the car over the engine and after I lowered it, I brought the engine up with a cherry picker... It was the most painless engine installation ever.

Posted by: qatar11 May 25, 2015 - 8:10 AM










Posted by: 4-eyed-freek May 26, 2015 - 3:52 PM

Where is the love button! Great work! are those BC coils?

Posted by: enderswift May 26, 2015 - 4:11 PM

Always thought about doing it that way. It's certainly how the drivetrains were installed in the factory. Great job thumbsup.gif

Posted by: qatar11 May 26, 2015 - 6:37 PM

QUOTE (4-eyed-freek @ May 26, 2015 - 4:52 PM) *
Where is the love button! Great work! are those BC coils?


Why... yes yes those are BC coils.





QUOTE (enderswift @ May 26, 2015 - 5:11 PM) *
Always thought about doing it that way. It's certainly how the drivetrains were installed in the factory. Great job thumbsup.gif


Yep, yep! I've been around enough assembly plants to know that wink.gif

Posted by: 4-eyed-freek May 28, 2015 - 1:00 PM

Did the coils come pre-assembled or did you have to cut them to accommodate the lower half of the ss?
I don't mind my TRD coils but having something new wouldn't be so bad

Posted by: qatar11 May 28, 2015 - 1:24 PM

QUOTE (4-eyed-freek @ May 28, 2015 - 2:00 PM) *
Did the coils come pre-assembled or did you have to cut them to accommodate the lower half of the ss?
I don't mind my TRD coils but having something new wouldn't be so bad


You have to cut them...



The fitment was kinda Meh so I had a guy make a sleeve that created an interference fit so the fitment was nice and tight and the structural intregity was not so dependant on the welds.

Posted by: 4-eyed-freek May 28, 2015 - 1:26 PM

So the sleeve welds on and the strut threads on if im understanding that right?

Posted by: qatar11 May 28, 2015 - 1:46 PM

QUOTE (4-eyed-freek @ May 28, 2015 - 2:26 PM) *
So the sleeve welds on and the strut threads on if im understanding that right?



Not quite. Orginally, you cut the OE strut as shown in the photo and then the BC coilover has a sloppy fit to the freshly cut strut and you weld it in place.. in stock form, there is no retention system above and beyond your welds.

Posted by: RocketScott May 28, 2015 - 8:43 PM

That's really nice work cleaning up the brake lines but you should see about replacing them somehow. If you're going for a museum piece they're fine but for actual use they are past their prime. The hose deteriorates from the inside, brake fluid is really nasty stuff.

I have a place that makes ss braided teflon lines for the vintage bikes I work on in my spare time. It's usually less expensive than any kit sold online.

Posted by: qatar11 May 29, 2015 - 6:35 AM

QUOTE (RocketScott @ May 28, 2015 - 9:43 PM) *
That's really nice work cleaning up the brake lines but you should see about replacing them somehow. If you're going for a museum piece they're fine but for actual use they are past their prime. The hose deteriorates from the inside, brake fluid is really nasty stuff.

I have a place that makes ss braided teflon lines for the vintage bikes I work on in my spare time. It's usually less expensive than any kit sold online.


I don't disagree with this sentiment. I'll send you a Private Message and we'll take this offline.

-Mike

Posted by: qatar11 Jun 7, 2015 - 5:22 PM

http://\&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nOqwfauL8zvfwc-Nv0hdxH92wYKHtML-lE28bKfn2r4r=w534-h949-no\&quot;

So... I was a little surprised to see that the bracket for the brake line is different... I already drilled out the spot welds for the bracket and I need to make up some plates for the brake lines to screw into....


http://\&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W2kU4808WidR_DiHCMiCHo5kIPJExE_b1hjCBL5v9NyD=w1680-h945-no\&quot;



So Huge... Much Wow...


And the revamped google image hosting is no longer compatible with this board...

Posted by: Durk11780 Jun 24, 2015 - 11:29 PM

Great thread, I also have a WRC GT4 half cut and all the parts to convert my 1994 Celica GT except for the driveshaft tunnel and rear diff mounting points. Did you ever find if hanksvillehotrods still has the specs for the rear diff?

Posted by: BonzaiCelica Jul 10, 2015 - 1:53 PM

Can you upload pics of your welding spots for gt4 brake lines
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-CELICA-GT-Four-ST205-2-0L-3S-GTE-brake-upgrade-SAFEBRAKE-Braided-Lines-/181521430578?nav=SEARCH

Posted by: oulaxer11 Jul 24, 2015 - 8:13 AM

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jul 10, 2015 - 2:53 PM) *
Can you upload pics of your welding spots for gt4 brake lines
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-CELICA-GT-Four-ST205-2-0L-3S-GTE-brake-upgrade-SAFEBRAKE-Braided-Lines-/181521430578?nav=SEARCH



Yeah - I will as soon as I finish that up...

Posted by: oulaxer11 Jul 29, 2015 - 11:33 AM

So ... my user name is broken AND Google Photos no longer allows direct linking to photos....

Go here and scroll to the bottom:

https://goo.gl/photos/nGzB9uqNrGiK7UKc7

The rear subframe is getting welded up and the fuel cell showed up smile.gif

Posted by: mcoury Nov 1, 2016 - 11:29 AM

I'll just leave this right here...

https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/homemadegt4/?hl=en

Posted by: mcoury Nov 8, 2016 - 9:18 AM

We've come a long way baby!


Posted by: mcoury Nov 8, 2016 - 9:11 PM




Yep....

Posted by: Malek Nov 10, 2016 - 11:03 PM

Nice!!

Glad to see it finished! Any words on how it drives/makes you feel? haha

Posted by: mcoury Nov 11, 2016 - 11:56 AM

QUOTE (Malek @ Nov 10, 2016 - 11:03 PM) *
Nice!!

Glad to see it finished! Any words on how it drives/makes you feel? haha



Haha... There's a video of it running with the 2nd 3SGTE (the one I rebuilt experienced some kind of total oil starvation and spun a bearing) - and once I confirmed that it wasn't leaking any coolant / fuel / whatever and it had good oil pressure - I dipped pretty heavily into a bottle of Johnny Walker Blue Label I secured for the occasion.

I am still just taking it around locally whenever I can... I have to develop some trust in the brakes (fully rebuilt by myself) and drive line... I just got a 4WD alignment done and it now drives very well.

I do have a very nasty stutter and hiccup in the higher gears - under load - and on boost. Every non GT-Four owner who has ridden in the car says its running lean... most GT-Four people on the nets think its the aftermarket fuel pump pushing too much fuel... My fuel economy is horrendous... So I stole the Wideband from the race car (it doesn't need it anyway) and I'm going to see what its doing before I proceed.

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