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> Convertible top motors, How to fix. with pictures!
post Apr 16, 2009 - 12:29 PM
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redhotpepper

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My second pin sheared last fall and, since the weather is getting nice, I fixed it yesterday. It went very smoothly and I even got the broken pin out by myself. The only thing my hubby did was cut the new pin for me. I'm not really allowed to have sharp objects because I have a tendency to cut myself!

The next project is to clean my EGR. I'm hoping I can find a tutorial as great as this one.

Annie
post Aug 25, 2009 - 2:47 AM
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Beano

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Hi I'm busy working on the motor and pin problem (after having the cast alloy lifter arm Tig welded after it broke due to uneven lifting stress when one motor failed) - The pin doesn't go right through the motor shaft - a hole right through the shaft would seriosly weaken it. There are two short pins, one in from either side, and they only enter the shaft by 2mm. I am told that they are only 'keepers' and the major torque is taken (supposedly) by the pinion being a VERY tight fit on the shaft. I'm trying roll pins because I'm short of time, but I fear they may not last long, but knowing the problem and the ease with which the motors can be removed, I'll be prepared for it next time!
Beano (UK)
post Aug 25, 2009 - 4:46 AM
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match220



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QUOTE (psilly @ Aug 14, 2006 - 9:48 PM) *
ok, they're not roll pins, they just look that way in the pic. It's a solid pin that's been scored along its length to make it stay in the hole.


Are you sure about that? I replaced mine a few years ago, when I pushed them out it looked exactly like a roll pin. It wasn't a solid pin that was scored, it was a regular roll pin. Unless someone changed it before I got the car and put a roll pin in.


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Aug 25, 2009 - 11:45 AM
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luisitol

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Yuo when I pulled my motors apart they had roll pins in them. I first replaced them with roll pins and the first time I held the button a seond too long they snapped.

So then I fnally replaced them eith solid pins and haven't had any issues!
post Aug 29, 2009 - 4:13 AM
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MaskedMan



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QUOTE (Beano @ Aug 25, 2009 - 12:47 AM) *
Hi I'm busy working on the motor and pin problem (after having the cast alloy lifter arm Tig welded after it broke due to uneven lifting stress when one motor failed) - The pin doesn't go right through the motor shaft - a hole right through the shaft would seriosly weaken it. There are two short pins, one in from either side, and they only enter the shaft by 2mm. I am told that they are only 'keepers' and the major torque is taken (supposedly) by the pinion being a VERY tight fit on the shaft. I'm trying roll pins because I'm short of time, but I fear they may not last long, but knowing the problem and the ease with which the motors can be removed, I'll be prepared for it next time!
Beano (UK)


From my experience, the pin goes right through the shaft. You can see straight through it in one of the pictures I posted on the first page.


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post Sep 5, 2009 - 7:49 PM
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CelicaRacer97



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Geez why am I just NOW seeing this post???? I was about to pay to have my motors fixed. Im glad Ive been too lazy to bother with it. LAZINESS HAS FINALLY PAID OFF!!!!!! now i gotta get off my lazy A$$ and fix this darn thing.....
post Sep 6, 2009 - 7:33 PM
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MaskedMan



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QUOTE (CelicaRacer97 @ Sep 5, 2009 - 5:49 PM) *
Geez why am I just NOW seeing this post???? I was about to pay to have my motors fixed. Im glad Ive been too lazy to bother with it. LAZINESS HAS FINALLY PAID OFF!!!!!! now i gotta get off my lazy A$ and fix this darn thing.....


Oh wth!? You're still here!? I didn't even know you still had your Celica haha. Good to see you're still around smile.gif.


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post Sep 12, 2009 - 10:12 AM
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xrav22



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I had large objects in the trunk and slammed on my brakes. The next time I tried convertible top it would't work.
Turned out objects bumped manual-auto switch in trunk.

post Sep 18, 2009 - 8:39 AM
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Beano

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Hi - I too have this prob - except that in my case the big alloy lift beam snapped clean in two when the soft top lifted 'skewed'. I had to dismantle the lift mechanism and take it to my local Tig Welder (wonderful man).
Back to the motor - I have tried and tried and cannot remove the 'broken bit of pin' from the shaft. It appears that the shaft is drilled in part way from each side, and therefore accepts a short pin from each side. the shaft is only a quarter inch diameter, so a hole all the way through would weaken it - right? ARE there shafts like this? Or do ALL shafts have a hole right through? I have supported the shaft and given it some hefty whacks with a hardened drift, which I'm sure would knock any piece of broken pin out - after all, it is less than 1/8" long and can't have THAT much of a grip! I tried inserting roll pins from either side - and the repair worked - ONCE.

Next I intend grinding a flat down the side of the shaft and a groove in the pinion and forcing a tiny piece of hex key or drill bit down the slot with a little Loctite.
I'll let you know how I get on - eventually - Meanwhile - its manual!
Roger
post Sep 18, 2009 - 9:32 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (Beano @ Sep 18, 2009 - 3:39 AM) *
Hi - I too have this prob - except that in my case the big alloy lift beam snapped clean in two when the soft top lifted 'skewed'. I had to dismantle the lift mechanism and take it to my local Tig Welder (wonderful man).
Back to the motor - I have tried and tried and cannot remove the 'broken bit of pin' from the shaft. It appears that the shaft is drilled in part way from each side, and therefore accepts a short pin from each side. the shaft is only a quarter inch diameter, so a hole all the way through would weaken it - right? ARE there shafts like this? Or do ALL shafts have a hole right through? I have supported the shaft and given it some hefty whacks with a hardened drift, which I'm sure would knock any piece of broken pin out - after all, it is less than 1/8" long and can't have THAT much of a grip! I tried inserting roll pins from either side - and the repair worked - ONCE.

Next I intend grinding a flat down the side of the shaft and a groove in the pinion and forcing a tiny piece of hex key or drill bit down the slot with a little Loctite.
I'll let you know how I get on - eventually - Meanwhile - its manual!
Roger


The hole goes straight through the whole shaft, they are usually hard to get out. You'll have to put it on a flat surface without the hole covered on the bottom and either press it out or hammer it out. I've done it each way, hammering is easier. I had a set of knockout pins to put on it. The replacement one should be just as hard to get in as this one is to get out.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Sep 23, 2009 - 8:48 PM
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sh0x



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I didn't think mine could be the pin. I took the entire motor and gearbox out as one unit and the output gear on the box still ran under a little manual tension. I took the motor off the box, and sure enough, the pin was snapped. When I put it back together, I figured out what to listen for. Even if the "broken" motor is still strong enough to assist the stop, if you hear the motor continue to run after the top hits the stop, you have a broken pin.

I'm lucky I didn't break something else on the top! I grabbed the manual handle to assist the top going up all summer. No sign of damage to the rails. Whew!

I'm also convinced it's a rolled pin. My local hardware store called it a "tension pin," if you're having trouble finding one.
post Jun 7, 2010 - 7:50 PM
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m2736185

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I guess noone has a write up on how to refurb these things? My left motor has some trouble coming up and down somtimes then it has this high pitched screal when it doesnt wanna make it, but it moves so I dont think its the pin. Anyone has any luck opening these things?
post Jun 7, 2010 - 8:17 PM
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njccmd2002



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you can get them on ebay sometimes, refurbishing them is a PITA


--------------------
Learned a lot in 10 years...

2grfe Swapped... Never Satisfied .. always something to do

A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.


llamaraxing @ Imgur, Ebay and Instagram
post Feb 20, 2011 - 8:06 AM
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CelicaRacer97



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QUOTE (MaskedMan @ Sep 6, 2009 - 6:33 PM) *
QUOTE (CelicaRacer97 @ Sep 5, 2009 - 5:49 PM) *
Geez why am I just NOW seeing this post???? I was about to pay to have my motors fixed. Im glad Ive been too lazy to bother with it. LAZINESS HAS FINALLY PAID OFF!!!!!! now i gotta get off my lazy A$ and fix this darn thing.....


Oh wth!? You're still here!? I didn't even know you still had your Celica haha. Good to see you're still around smile.gif.



Wow i still havent fixed my damn motors after all this time.....seems like too much work, im gonna have to just pay s omeone to do it for me....and yes im still here
post Feb 20, 2011 - 7:33 PM
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njccmd2002



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its really not a big deal to do, takes maybe about 20 mins.

the only thing is just to get the motors out...


--------------------
Learned a lot in 10 years...

2grfe Swapped... Never Satisfied .. always something to do

A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.


llamaraxing @ Imgur, Ebay and Instagram
post Feb 20, 2011 - 11:31 PM
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MaskedMan



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Yeah, it's really easy to do, and like njccmd2002 said, the hardest part is getting the motors out.

Do you still live in Lakewood, CA like your profile says? I'm in SoCal, so if you need help let me know.

I really gotta get around to updating the pics on the first post laugh.gif.
I'll try to do that this week if it doesn't rain again.


--------------------

post Feb 20, 2011 - 11:49 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (MaskedMan @ Feb 20, 2011 - 6:31 PM) *
Yeah, it's really easy to do, and like njccmd2002 said, the hardest part is getting the motors out.

Do you still live in Lakewood, CA like your profile says? I'm in SoCal, so if you need help let me know.

I really gotta get around to updating the pics on the first post laugh.gif.
I'll try to do that this week if it doesn't rain again.


it's been a long time since I pulled mine out, but I remember it being easy to pull the motors out using my 8mm craftsman ratchetwrench. I thought getting the roll pins out of the motors was the most time consuming. Overall it didn't take very long though. And it's well worth spending the $10 or so on the one wrench just to pull the motors out easily.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Feb 20, 2011 - 11:54 PM
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MaskedMan



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If the motors are in plain sight, then they are pretty easy to remove. It's just the whole process of removing everything else to get to the motors that was time consuming for me. Getting the old pins out of the motors is my favorite part, because I get to hit something with a hammer biggrin.gif.


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post Feb 21, 2011 - 12:02 AM
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match220



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QUOTE (MaskedMan @ Feb 20, 2011 - 6:54 PM) *
Getting the old pins out of the motors is my favorite part, because I get to hit something with a hammer biggrin.gif.


I second that

MaskedMan,
Are you actually in Korea or just from there? I used to live there, I still have friends that live just outside of Suwon. I don't remember seeing any Toyotas, except one Supra in Seoul. How did you get a Celica over there?


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Feb 21, 2011 - 12:23 AM
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MaskedMan



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I actually live in California, but it would be awesome to live in Korea. How long did you live there? I would really like to move, but if I can't take my Celica with me, then no deal laugh.gif.


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