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> white convertible Gen III 3s build, Gen3 3s + FMIC + EMS + lightweight crank + GTFour front = fun
post Jun 23, 2012 - 8:34 PM
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ricochet1490



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blue tubing makes it have a "go fast" look about it lol


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post Jun 23, 2012 - 9:01 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Jun 23, 2012 - 3:34 PM) *
blue tubing makes it have a "go fast" look about it lol


thanks! I've always liked blue things.


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jun 24, 2012 - 5:13 AM
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match220



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and more pictures! For the fuel pump I drilled two small holes in the electrical connector that were nearly the same size as the wire from the fuel pump kit. They were where the two wires for the stock fuel pump connected originally. Later on I will take heatshrink tubing and melt it around the wire casing then pull the wires through so it seals to the hole while it's hot. I should add that it's pretty hard to get the pump into the housing. The outlet on the top of the fuel pump is 1/4 inch taller than the stock celica pump, making the fitment into the housing very very tight, but it does fit. And there is also a pic of my SM4 beneath these two.





This post has been edited by match220: Jun 24, 2012 - 5:16 AM


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Sep 7, 2012 - 4:57 PM
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match220



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Finished rewire of engine harness....finally...and tons of soldering later.....

got a small fuse box that holds 6 fuses.
put a main relay in front of it (80A)
put a secondary relay behind the fuse box for the ECU (30A)
put a secondary relay behind the fuse box for the Jetta 1.8t coil-over-plugs (20A) two coils on one relay, two relays
put an LED and a 1/2 watt resistor coming off of the relay so I will know if it loses power
powered the injectors with their own fuse and LED w/ 1/2 watt resistor
used the old injector wire as a signal to trip the relays closed and power everything.
I'll post a pic later on when I turn the key and the lights come on
I still have to connect the grounds to the relays and new ECU

also wired in walbro fuel pump with new power and ground wire 10AWG, fuel pump relay is hidden in a different place for safety, so if someone tries to pop my hood and rewire everything to start the car they will have no fuel pressure even though all of the lights will be on under the hood smile.gif


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 9, 2013 - 2:40 AM
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match220



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Got the car running for the first time today, I'm pretty excited. It has been waiting a long time to roar.

Video of the car running here!


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 9, 2013 - 5:24 PM
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RobStar86

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Nice job! Once everything is buttoned up, it should be an awesome summer car that should surprise a few people hehe


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- 1994 ST205 GT-Four WRC
- 2000 Celica GTS (Swap in progress)
post Mar 9, 2013 - 5:36 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (RobStar86 @ Mar 9, 2013 - 12:24 PM) *
Nice job! Once everything is buttoned up, it should be an awesome summer car that should surprise a few people hehe


Thanks. I'm in Hawaii though. And it's always summer here smile.gif, except for the rainy season


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 9, 2013 - 6:01 PM
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RobStar86

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QUOTE (match220 @ Mar 9, 2013 - 6:36 PM) *
QUOTE (RobStar86 @ Mar 9, 2013 - 12:24 PM) *
Nice job! Once everything is buttoned up, it should be an awesome summer car that should surprise a few people hehe


Thanks. I'm in Hawaii though. And it's always summer here smile.gif, except for the rainy season


So jealous right now, I'm waiting on snow to melt still lol. I'd rather have rain than snow, although it has its moments of fun as well....


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- 1994 ST205 GT-Four WRC
- 2000 Celica GTS (Swap in progress)
post Mar 9, 2013 - 8:12 PM
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richee3



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Congrats on getting it running. thumbsup.gif


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"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!

Mine- 1997 Supra- TT 6 speed, BPU. 460 whp.
Hers- 1998 Celica GT-
BEAMS Swapped.
Ours- 2016 4Runner Trail Edition.
post Mar 21, 2013 - 12:08 AM
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match220



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Did two things today to it.
1) customized my windshield washer bottle to be FMIC friendly
2) made a battery tray since my battery is mounted in a different location

washer fluid reservoir...I cut out a big section of it and also cut a muscle milk contained in quarter sections (long ways to make a plastic quarter-round). Used one of the quarter sections to seal against the reservoir so it would wrap around the intercooler piping.


finally made a battery tray out of aluminum I riveted together and used the old plastic base that the battery used to sit on in the 5sfe.






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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 21, 2013 - 12:24 AM
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Malek



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hahaha but seriously, that's a damn good idea for the washer reservoir! thumbsup.gif


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post Mar 21, 2013 - 12:38 AM
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match220



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QUOTE (Malek @ Mar 20, 2013 - 7:24 PM) *


hahaha but seriously, that's a damn good idea for the washer reservoir! thumbsup.gif


lol @ picture.

At first I was trying to shove it out of the way, but it kept shifting and would push my plastic wheel-well guard thing into the tire when I turned. I just used black RTV silicone to hold the plastic pieces together. I noticed a while ago that black lasts longer in the tube before drying out, so I can keep it around for longer.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 27, 2013 - 5:14 PM
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match220



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more blue!

I found some little blue anodized 1/8 NPT plugs to put in the intake manifold instead of the ugly brass hex-head ones I had. I just had to tap the intake manifold deeper since it only went in one turn.



--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 27, 2013 - 6:49 PM
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match220



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..and of course my temperature gauge doesn't work. I put a new sensor in the car a year ago, tested the resistance and decided to buy a new sensor any since it's only $23. Not the problem. Gauge still pegs the top when the engine is cold. THEN I put in my cheap aftermarket gauge that has been new in the box in my closet for 5 years, it has its own sensor and it doesn't work either. ugh..I want to drive the car around safely without worrying if I am overheating the engine.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 27, 2013 - 7:26 PM
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Malek



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DO THAT ^^ When I first bought my RS, both the factory and aftermarket temp gauge weren't working. I wasn't anywhere near my shop or tools so I drove it around like that..Needless to say, it was overheating. So I did a full STi swap smile.gif

Sounds silly, but make sure the coolant is topped off tongue.gif

And, if all else fails, I have a brand new Autometer water temp gauge that I don't need. #5732


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post Mar 27, 2013 - 7:45 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (Malek @ Mar 27, 2013 - 2:26 PM) *
DO THAT ^^ When I first bought my RS, both the factory and aftermarket temp gauge weren't working. I wasn't anywhere near my shop or tools so I drove it around like that..Needless to say, it was overheating. So I did a full STi swap smile.gif

Sounds silly, but make sure the coolant is topped off tongue.gif

And, if all else fails, I have a brand new Autometer water temp gauge that I don't need. #5732


well..my laptop has 3 hour battery life. I can plug it into the Autronic ecu and drive around anywhere and look at the laptop screen to see if it's overheating, BUT I would rather have a water temp gauge. We have safety inspections here, and I'm pretty sure I would need to have a working temperature gauge (not laptop). Temporarily I think I'm going to wire in a resistor in line with the sensor since the resistance of the sensor drops as the temperature rises. I tried a 470 ohm resistor and the gauge registers just above cold. I hate radioshack's overpriced junk, two resistors through them is the cost of 100 on ebay, but I need it now...so I'll have to resort to ripping apart broken electronics to find the right resistor, unfortunately I have nothing broken but laptops with very tiny resistors.

For safety, the Autronic has an overheating shut off feature, so it kills the engine when it goes over a certain temp. Decreases the boost when it goes over 105 C. And I can do other things with it's "limp home" feature. The autronic was the only choice (in my mind) because of it's overheating protection safety nets. I can easily justify spending the money on it if it saves my engine from a potential meltdown.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 27, 2013 - 9:13 PM
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match220



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wired in a 470 ohm resistor to an old water temp sensor that I think goes to a camry. The gauge now reads nothing at a cold start and 1/4 at normal temp. Somehow the gauge calibration is off. Anyone have some bad gauges and can you mail the temp part of the cluster to me for a small fee? I'm pretty sure it's just the little motor thing, so that's all I would need. The convertible top was falling apart a year ago from sitting, and moisture/mildew got in the car, I'm thinking it messed with the connections on the temp gauge.

***I should add..this is IN NO WAY a fix to any gauge issue like the one I mentioned above. The temperature sending unit is a thermistor (thermal resistor) known as an NTC sensor, or negative temperature coefficient sensor, meaning that as the temperature goes up, the resistance from the sensor will go down. I believe the range on the sensor is 600 ohms (resistance measure) to 40 ohms, but I'm not sure. All I have done in adding this resistor is trick my gauge into showing a lower temp which makes my max value on the gauge display 1/4 up the gauge (so I can pass the safety inspection by showing the inspector a working gauge until I get the issue fixed). Since the sensor range is 600 - 40 ohms, now it will start out at 1070 (600 + my 470 resistor) to 510 (40ish plus 470). So if the normal operating temperature's resistance is 220, then it is now 690. My faulty gauge shows that at 1/4. I'm only explaining this so no one else does it. It's tricking the gauge into never showing an overheating temp (again, so I can pass safety).



This post has been edited by match220: Mar 27, 2013 - 10:32 PM


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 27, 2013 - 10:31 PM
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match220



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someone hit my car overnight kindasad.gif it's not bad..I had to paint that fender anyway..but really? I've been living at this place for 5 years, and no one has ever hit any of my vehicles in my parking stall, then I have my car running for a couple days and someone hits it?

This post has been edited by match220: Apr 4, 2013 - 6:55 AM


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Apr 3, 2013 - 5:29 PM
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match220



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I have a female friend that works at a graphics design place locally, she hooked me up with these. My own design smile.gif, I couldn't find anything like them online, so i drew it up and had it made. I'm not a huge fan of racing stripes, but I think these are cool and unique. I'll probably wait until I have decided on a new front bumper before putting them on. They are black, not gray.




--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Apr 3, 2013 - 10:09 PM
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bmj67

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You should have put the QR code for 6gc in that stripe hahaha

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