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6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > Forced Induction
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6strngs
As some of you know, I've been gathering parts together for a 5sfte turbo project which I hope to finish soon. I should have a fairly large sump of money coming in in the next few days which I will use to buy the rest (or as much of the rest as I can) of the parts. Not only that but my parents will be leaving town for about 10 days on monday, leaving me with garage space to work in. The week of june 3rd-10th I will have a weeks paid vacation from work, so I will have plenty of time to work on it then. Anyway, here's what I've got so far:

2 bar map sensor:
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460cc RX7 injectors:
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3sgte oil pan:
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3sgte oil and coolant lines, oil feed line from stealthmodeperformance.com, oil pressure sending unit from tunertoyz (thanks to Dew_Hoe_GT). Earl's -3an to 1/8" NPT fittings. The 3rd fitting on the T near the 3s oil line is plugged; I just needed an adaptor to connect two male threads and stealthmode included the tee.
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oil line modified with the -3an threads from an earl's fitting. Welding done by my welding instructor. TIG welding ftw!
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3sgte manifold, with EGT bung that will get plugged (not enough room for EGT gauge on my A-pillar! lol)
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intercooler
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2.25" intercooler piping, mr2 BPV on a section of stock mr2 IC piping, about 4 silicone couplers, 1 2.25"-2.50" transition coupler, and 6 or so worm-gear clamps
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A'pexi AFC Neo:
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Lotek A-pillar pod, and AEM UEGO wideband o2 (hooked up to power, but not to the engine yet), will be filling the other two slots with a boost and oil pressure gauge
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And there you have it. For the IC piping, I was told it was 2.5" piping and included couplers and T-bolts... unfortunately, it turned out to be 2.25" piping, only included 4 2.25" couplers, only one 2.25" to 2.50" transition, and a couple worm gear clamps... it also included 3 2.00" couplers and 6 T-bolts which only fit the 2.00" couplers which do me no good... those 3 couplers + t-bolts are up on ebay now to help pay for the other couplers and clamps I need. If anybody has any used 2.25" couplers, 2.25" t-bolt clamps, 2.25-2.50" transistion couplers, or a 45* elbow coupler, let me know!

also still needed:
Turbo and downpipe (Negative is supposed to get these to me, but he hasn't replied to any PMs from me for 11 days and counting kindasad.gif)
oil filter recolation kit
gauges (oil pressure and boost)
walbro fuel pump
VTV for the mr2 BPV
magnaflow muffler (to be mated to a 3" custom exhaust I plan to get)
couplers, T-bolts, elbow, and transitions for ic piping

if anybody has anything on that list they could sell to me, that would be awesome! So yeah, go ahead and comment away!

EDIT: can anybody tell me what size the outlet on the CT-26 twin entry turbo is so I can get the correct sized 45* elbow. I assume it's 2.25" since the section of mr2 IC piping is 2.25"
slvr_celica_GT_816
good luck with the build
Gary
Looking good. smile.gif
The ID of the hose that connects to the CT26 compressor outlet is 55mm.
2.25" should be OK.
lagos
i think its actually closer to a 2in ... but dont hold me to that.
6strngs
if it really is 55mm, then it's 2.16", so, a 2.25" 45* elbow should work for connecting the turbo to the first 180 degree bend of the IC piping, right? is that what other 5sfte people used?
presure2
QUOTE(6strngs @ May 26, 2007 - 12:48 AM) [snapback]561697[/snapback]

if it really is 55mm, then it's 2.16", so, a 2.25" 45* elbow should work for connecting the turbo to the first 180 degree bend of the IC piping, right? is that what other 5sfte people used?

the outlet is a bit smaller than 2.25, (its a metric size obviously) but the 2.25" coupler woks fine with a good tbolt clamp
purepunishment
pmed you
6strngs
update... sorta. Ordered the spark plugs and gauges; they should be here tuesday. Also ordered the VTV along with a valve cover gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and oil pan gasket maker OEM from toyota from 1sttoyotaparts.com; but I haven't recieved any shipping info yet, I'm guessing they probably don't keep the VTV in stock so it'll be a couple days until they recieve one to ship to me. Other than part ordering, I removed my cruise control today; hey, an extra 7-8 lbs of weight reduction! wink.gif I never use the thing anyway

Still waiting on a check to clear; hopefully tomorrow, and some paypal money to process over the next couple of days, so that I can have enough money to order the rest of the parts.

Negative still has not gotten back to me about the turbo and downpipe which I had already sent him some parts for (we were trading)... so now he has my stuff and mysteriously vanishes into thin air. Though, to be honest, I don't think he's trying to scam me, it seems more like something came up, or he lost his internet service, or something. he hasn't even logged on since may 21st. well, if he doesn't get back to me soon, I'll be forced to buy a turbo and downpipe elsewhere. and then when he finally does get back to me I'll have to demand some kind of compensation.

I originally planned on starting work this weekend and next week; but money has to be "verified" for several days before it actually gets in my pocket and shipping certain things takes longer than expected and now I'm thinking it'll be awhile now. I really want to be able to start work on this before I have to go back to work on June 11th; but I still have to buy my girlfriend a birthday present; so I have no clue when I'll be able to get all this done.

oh yeah, I have a couple questions too:
What is the size of the intake inlet on the CT-26? will a filter meant for a 2.5" pipe work?
Will I need to drill a hole in my intercooler piping (after the intercooler) to put the intake air temp sensor into it?

sorry for the long post
presure2
QUOTE(6strngs @ May 31, 2007 - 12:04 AM) [snapback]563198[/snapback]

update... sorta. Ordered the spark plugs and gauges; they should be here tuesday. Also ordered the VTV along with a valve cover gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and oil pan gasket maker OEM from toyota from 1sttoyotaparts.com; but I haven't recieved any shipping info yet, I'm guessing they probably don't keep the VTV in stock so it'll be a couple days until they recieve one to ship to me. Other than part ordering, I removed my cruise control today; hey, an extra 7-8 lbs of weight reduction! wink.gif I never use the thing anyway

Still waiting on a check to clear; hopefully tomorrow, and some paypal money to process over the next couple of days, so that I can have enough money to order the rest of the parts.

Negative still has not gotten back to me about the turbo and downpipe which I had already sent him some parts for (we were trading)... so now he has my stuff and mysteriously vanishes into thin air. Though, to be honest, I don't think he's trying to scam me, it seems more like something came up, or he lost his internet service, or something. he hasn't even logged on since may 21st. well, if he doesn't get back to me soon, I'll be forced to buy a turbo and downpipe elsewhere. and then when he finally does get back to me I'll have to demand some kind of compensation.

I originally planned on starting work this weekend and next week; but money has to be "verified" for several days before it actually gets in my pocket and shipping certain things takes longer than expected and now I'm thinking it'll be awhile now. I really want to be able to start work on this before I have to go back to work on June 11th; but I still have to buy my girlfriend a birthday present; so I have no clue when I'll be able to get all this done.

oh yeah, I have a couple questions too:
What is the size of the intake inlet on the CT-26? will a filter meant for a 2.5" pipe work?
Will I need to drill a hole in my intercooler piping (after the intercooler) to put the intake air temp sensor into it?

sorry for the long post

IIRC the filter inlet is 2.75"
you DO need to drill your intercooler piping AFTER the intercooler, to install the IAT.
Gary
QUOTE(presure2 @ May 31, 2007 - 6:35 AM) [snapback]563302[/snapback]

IIRC the filter inlet is 2.75"
you DO need to drill your intercooler piping AFTER the intercooler, to install the IAT.

Yep. the turbo inlet is 70mm (2.75")
6strngs
I recieved my fuel pump and oil filter relocation kit today. Yeah, I didn't go with steel braided lines, I got a cheapish one. But I did get some hose covers for it that are stainless. I didn't get them to make my car ricer by having "stainless-looking" lines, but to protect the rubber hoses.
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I also installed the fuel pump today. I thought my ECU would be able to tune itself for it, but I think I am running kinda rich cause I can see some smoke coming out my exhaust and when it revs it kinda puts a little like it's backfiring.

also ordered a downpipe. it's a cheapo off ebay, but hopefully it'll last me until the berk tech V3 DP's are available for sale.

now I just need to order a turbo, plus exhaust stuff. I'm still waiting on my gauges, VTV, and the rest of my couplers and clamps to arrive.
presure2
youll end up regretting buying the screw on block adapter for the block.
i'd keep a close eye on the rubber lines, even with the stainless covering.
lookin good!
6strngs
QUOTE(presure2 @ Jun 2, 2007 - 10:04 AM) [snapback]564154[/snapback]

youll end up regretting buying the screw on block adapter for the block.
i'd keep a close eye on the rubber lines, even with the stainless covering.
lookin good!

bryan @ berk technology said this to me:
QUOTE
5SFE-T owners. The 2.2 Celica N/A to Turbo upgrade motors have an interference with the A/C lines on that application.

The 5SFE on the FWD Celica has it's A/C compressor lines routed the opposite direction vs. the SW20 3SGTE.

how did you (or any other 5sfte people on this site) get around that?
presure2
QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 2, 2007 - 2:06 PM) [snapback]564180[/snapback]

QUOTE(presure2 @ Jun 2, 2007 - 10:04 AM) [snapback]564154[/snapback]

youll end up regretting buying the screw on block adapter for the block.
i'd keep a close eye on the rubber lines, even with the stainless covering.
lookin good!

bryan @ berk technology said this to me:
QUOTE
5SFE-T owners. The 2.2 Celica N/A to Turbo upgrade motors have an interference with the A/C lines on that application.

The 5SFE on the FWD Celica has it's A/C compressor lines routed the opposite direction vs. the SW20 3SGTE.

how did you (or any other 5sfte people on this site) get around that?

i used the canton oil filter adapter.
for the A/C lines,, for now, im just dealing with it, it just barely rests against it.
he just has to make everyone aware of how it fits prior to selling them.
actually, ill make a post now about it.
wink.gif
6strngs
got my couplers and T-bolt clamps yesterday. but they messed up and only sent me 1 2.5" to 2.25" reducer. so the other will be shipping out tomorrow (I already had one).

my downpipe should also be shipping out tomorrow. I'll be sending payment for my turbo tomorrow as well. Gauges and spark plugs will be here tuesday.

parts are coming, slowly but surely. lol. only my toyota parts are taking too long. I guess they're backordered or something. so... erm... without the VTV, will the BPV not open at all and I'll get compressor surge?
shin
i had the same oil filter adapter like you did.. and like manny said.. you'll regret it.. cause i did.. it won't screw tight... the stock DP's blocking hose.... and it keeps leaking.. i would get the Canton adapter manny did.. that thing kicks ass. biggrin.gif
WALKER
Is this the Canton adapter?

Second one down 90° ROTATING BILLET REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER

Is it the 3/4-16 Thread? #22-595

Also Manny, what is the reason for one of the hoses coming out straight and the other at a 90 degree?

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jcaron9gt4
why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol
presure2
QUOTE(WALKER @ Jun 4, 2007 - 2:09 PM) [snapback]564791[/snapback]

Is this the Canton adapter?

Second one down 90° ROTATING BILLET REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER

Is it the 3/4-16 Thread? #22-595

Also Manny, what is the reason for one of the hoses coming out straight and the other at a 90 degree?

IPB Image

that is the one, yes.
when i built mine, i wasnt sure what ends i would need, so i bought 2 straight, and 2 90*'s.
i didnt really need the 90's, so i used one on each side of the setup.
you'll need to figure out where your going to place your oil filter, then buy the appropriate ends to suit your needs.
and yes, buy the oil restrictor.
wink.gif
WALKER
QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 4, 2007 - 3:26 PM) [snapback]564879[/snapback]

make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo.


Do you just need only one of them and where do you locate it?

Is this the part?

Shouldn't it be 1/2" NPT?
jcaron9gt4
it resricts how much oil goes into your turbo. someone correct me if im wrong but the ct26's are only supposed to get up to 30 psi of oil. It goes onto your block fitting, right before your oil feed line. And yes, that is the exact one i got.
6strngs
QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 4, 2007 - 2:26 PM) [snapback]564879[/snapback]

why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol

aw, dang it... nobody told me anything about an oil restrictor. guess there's one more part I need to order rolleyes.gif

in other news, my toyota parts finally shipped and will be here wednesday. I'm still waiting on some money that was sent to me with paypal to clear before I can send money for the turbo. it said it was expected to clear today, but here it is 4 PM and still hasn't cleared. *sigh* I really wanted to do this this week, but I guess I'll have to wait until next week and then I'll have to squeeze it in between work days.

EDIT: I just checked... and shipping on that oil restrictor is 9 fricken dollars! however, ATP turbo is located in hayward CA, about 45 minutes from me, so I'm going to e-mail them and ask if I could do a local pick-up.
DippedInSauce
QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 4, 2007 - 6:06 PM) [snapback]564924[/snapback]

QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 4, 2007 - 2:26 PM) [snapback]564879[/snapback]

why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol

aw, dang it... nobody told me anything about an oil restrictor. guess there's one more part I need to order rolleyes.gif

in other news, my toyota parts finally shipped and will be here wednesday. I'm still waiting on some money that was sent to me with paypal to clear before I can send money for the turbo. it said it was expected to clear today, but here it is 4 PM and still hasn't cleared. *sigh* I really wanted to do this this week, but I guess I'll have to wait until next week and then I'll have to squeeze it in between work days.

EDIT: I just checked... and shipping on that oil restrictor is 9 fricken dollars! however, ATP turbo is located in hayward CA, about 45 minutes from me, so I'm going to e-mail them and ask if I could do a local pick-up.


you must be going pretty fast for being at hayward in 45 mins! laugh.gif because it takes me about 40-45 to get there! (and i think you're farther than me? i have no clue correct me if im wrong.)
6strngs
QUOTE(DippedInSauce @ Jun 4, 2007 - 6:45 PM) [snapback]564985[/snapback]

QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 4, 2007 - 6:06 PM) [snapback]564924[/snapback]

QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 4, 2007 - 2:26 PM) [snapback]564879[/snapback]

why yes it is.....and yea, i bought that same one you have, the trans dapt one....i'll be purchasing the canton one soon, but i know what everyone's talking about how it wont tighten completely...mine leaks a little bit of oil, but not too bad. Before you put your setup together, make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo. I realized i needed one after i put all my oil lines on. mine came in today and i'll be putting it on this week. I blow smoke out of my exhaust like crazy whenever i boost....just ask manny lol

aw, dang it... nobody told me anything about an oil restrictor. guess there's one more part I need to order rolleyes.gif

in other news, my toyota parts finally shipped and will be here wednesday. I'm still waiting on some money that was sent to me with paypal to clear before I can send money for the turbo. it said it was expected to clear today, but here it is 4 PM and still hasn't cleared. *sigh* I really wanted to do this this week, but I guess I'll have to wait until next week and then I'll have to squeeze it in between work days.

EDIT: I just checked... and shipping on that oil restrictor is 9 fricken dollars! however, ATP turbo is located in hayward CA, about 45 minutes from me, so I'm going to e-mail them and ask if I could do a local pick-up.


you must be going pretty fast for being at hayward in 45 mins! laugh.gif because it takes me about 40-45 to get there! (and i think you're farther than me? i have no clue correct me if im wrong.)

I took an auto class at cahbot college in hayward for one semester, and it only took me like 30-45 minutes to get there. of course, this was on saturday mornings and there wasn't really any traffic. if I went at like 4 or 5PM then that could easily turn into a 2-3 hour trip each way. lol
OOBE
You'll spend more gas money on getting there. Just pay the $9 and be done, heh.
WALKER
QUOTE(WALKER @ Jun 4, 2007 - 3:58 PM) [snapback]564896[/snapback]

QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 4, 2007 - 3:26 PM) [snapback]564879[/snapback]

make sure you buy an oil restrictor from atp turbo.


Do you just need only one of them and where do you locate it?

Is this the part?

Shouldn't it be 1/2" NPT?



QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 4, 2007 - 4:01 PM) [snapback]564899[/snapback]

And yes, that is the exact one i got.


I don't understand, isn't the Trans-Dapt a 1/2" NPT and this oil restrictor only a 1/4" NPT?
jcaron9gt4
the oil restrictor is 1/8 npt
WALKER
QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 5, 2007 - 1:11 PM) [snapback]565208[/snapback]

the oil restrictor is 1/8 npt


Ah yes it is, and now I understand. I wasn't reading clearly before. It goes onto your block before your oil feed line as you said before. It dosn't go around the oil filter or on that line, my bad. Had my mind completely wrapped around the parts required for the oil filter relocation that I was thinking that is where it was for.

Thanks for the clarifications!
6strngs
Reiceved my other gauges and the spark plugs. I'm trying to install the gauges now, I'll take pics when I'm done.
6strngs
IPB Image
Prosport gauges from twosrus.com. I've got them all wired up and all the wires routed to the engine bay, but none of them are actualy connected to anything. I 'm not exactly sure how to hook up the boost gauge... I tried to hook up the oil pressure gauge, but it seems threads on the tunertoyz T fitting are not right for the block confused.gif anybody else have this problem? I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.
DippedInSauce
yo nathan, your inbox is full. im trying to get ahold of ya tongue.gif
6strngs
Recieved my exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pan sealant, VTV for the mr2 BPV, and what I thought was going to be the bracket that screws into the BPV to hold the VTV, but actually turned out to be some odd shaped clamp that I have no idea what exactly it's for.. lol

downpipe will be arriving today too. Then I've just got the turbo and a few odds and ends.

can anybody tell how they mounted their front mount intercoolers below the crash bar? I was just going to do what lagos (I think that's who it was that said it) said and get some thread rod and angle iron, but I see other people aren't doing that so I wanted to know what my other options are.
jcaron9gt4
buy some L brackets from home depot or something and just mount it under the crash bar. Also, its 1/8 NPT...looking good so far man, gauges look nice!
laff09
Whats NPT smile.gif
WALKER
QUOTE(laff09 @ Jun 6, 2007 - 1:26 PM) [snapback]565674[/snapback]

Whats NPT smile.gif


National Pipe Thread (NPT). It is a standard on tapered pipe thread size.
British Standard Pipe Thread (BSP).
Nominal Pipe Size (NPS) is standard for straight pipe.
laff09
QUOTE(WALKER @ Jun 6, 2007 - 2:31 PM) [snapback]565677[/snapback]

QUOTE(laff09 @ Jun 6, 2007 - 1:26 PM) [snapback]565674[/snapback]

Whats NPT smile.gif


National Pipe Thread (NPT). It is a standard on tapered pipe thread size.
Nominal Pipe Size (NPS) is standard for straight pipe.

TY much
6strngs
QUOTE(jcaron9gt4 @ Jun 6, 2007 - 12:16 PM) [snapback]565669[/snapback]

Also, its 1/8 NPT...looking good so far man, gauges look nice!

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... confused.gif did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?
WALKER
QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 6, 2007 - 2:11 PM) [snapback]565699[/snapback]

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... confused.gif did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?


I haven't tried mine yet, but I am not sure your problem?

The block is a female BSP thread and the sensor is a male BSP. The adapter has the female BSP on the end to put in the sensor. It then has to female NPT's for oil line and pressure sender.


QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 5, 2007 - 10:24 PM) [snapback]565417[/snapback]

....I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.


I just reread an earlier post of yours. I am not sure if you stripped the threads when you tried the NPT in the BSP on the block. That might be your problem.
6strngs
QUOTE(WALKER @ Jun 6, 2007 - 2:25 PM) [snapback]565738[/snapback]

QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 6, 2007 - 2:11 PM) [snapback]565699[/snapback]

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... confused.gif did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?


I haven't tried mine yet, but I am not sure your problem?

The block is a female BSP thread and the sensor is a male BSP. The adapter has the female BSP on the end to put in the sensor. It then has to female NPT's for oil line and pressure sender.


QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 5, 2007 - 10:24 PM) [snapback]565417[/snapback]

....I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.


I just reread an earlier post of yours. I am not sure if you stripped the threads when you tried the NPT in the BSP on the block. That might be your problem.

well no, I tried the BSP first. and it appeared as though it fit in the hole, it just wouldn't thread in. maybe I just had too much teflon tape on the fitting. I'll try to take that off, then try to thread it in, if it does I'll just use less teflon tape. if it doesn't, guess I'll be looking for a 1/8" BSP to 1/8" NPT adaptor...
6strngs
not much of an update but:
gapped the spark plugs to 0.030 though they came out of the box pretty close to that
recieved my downpipe and final 2.25 - 2.50" coupler
tried to hook my boost gauge up, but realized that the hose they included was too small... so I forced it to fit (barely) and taped it in place and got my boost gauge to read my engine vacuum for about 10-15 seconds before it blew a hose off. lol. at least I know how to connect it now when I get the proper sized hose. I assume I can use vacuum hose, and I don't need this clear pvc hose, right?

in fact, the whole install of these prosport gauges has been quite a pain. they didn't come with a very long wiring harness, maybe only like 18 inches... it wasn't enough to reach down from the A-pillar, so I had to extend all the wiring. Plus, the modules in the engine bay also need a power and ground source... I don't see why they couldn't just use a harness and use the power and ground already hooked up to the gauge.... *sigh* oh well, I got it figured out now... at least they look purty... at night... they're kinda hard to see during the day. rolleyes.gif

EDIT: some pics for you
Downpipe, has a bung for a second o2, and what I guess is an EGT bung but I really don't know
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exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pan sealant and VTV
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here's the clamp that I ordered thinking it was the bracket for the VTV
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presure2
QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 6, 2007 - 11:21 PM) [snapback]565900[/snapback]

QUOTE(WALKER @ Jun 6, 2007 - 2:25 PM) [snapback]565738[/snapback]

QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 6, 2007 - 2:11 PM) [snapback]565699[/snapback]

isn't everyone using this: http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK ? it says it has 1/8 BSP male threads for threading into the block, plus has 1/8" BSP female for threading the stock sensor into it. then two 1/8" NPT female threads for the oil gauge and oil line... what I don't understand is, the stock sensor can still thread into it (1/8" BSP), but it can't thread into the block... confused.gif did anyone else using this have to use an adaptor?


I haven't tried mine yet, but I am not sure your problem?

The block is a female BSP thread and the sensor is a male BSP. The adapter has the female BSP on the end to put in the sensor. It then has to female NPT's for oil line and pressure sender.


QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 5, 2007 - 10:24 PM) [snapback]565417[/snapback]

....I can thread a 1/8" NPT fitting into the block, but I thought it was supposed to be 1/8" BSP? I can thread the stock pressure sender and aftermarket pressure senderinto the T, just not the T into the block.


I just reread an earlier post of yours. I am not sure if you stripped the threads when you tried the NPT in the BSP on the block. That might be your problem.

well no, I tried the BSP first. and it appeared as though it fit in the hole, it just wouldn't thread in. maybe I just had too much teflon tape on the fitting. I'll try to take that off, then try to thread it in, if it does I'll just use less teflon tape. if it doesn't, guess I'll be looking for a 1/8" BSP to 1/8" NPT adaptor...

you shouldnt be using teflon tape there. its a tapered thread.
6strngs
got some properly sized vacuum hose to hook my boost gauge up now. though I can't test it out yet. see, when I did my fuel pump, I kinda ghetto rigged it, becuase when I went to loosen the nut for the hard line, it was on so tight that I bent and broke the hard line before it loosened the nut. so I had rigged it with a piece of rubber fuel hose and some clamps, but on one side of the hard line there wasn't much left to clamp to, so the line popped off while driving yesterday and I went through a quarter tank of gas in about a minute! it was leaking all over the place! so I ordered a whole new fuel pump bracket. hopefully it'll be here like tuesday or wednesday so I can get my car running again.

turbo should have shipped today, but I was told it's missing two pieces. the V-band clamp that holds the two housings together, and a nut for the shaft on the compressor side... but I'm having a little bit of difficulty finding these two pieces. I'm sure I can get a new nut at a hardware store. but the clamp... could I use a universal V-band clamp if it's the right size? anybody know the size?
6strngs
ok, so I recieved the new fuel pump bracket today and got the car running again. No more honda driving for me!

Boost gauge is hooked up and working now.

I've got to go to toyota at some point to pick up the rest of the things I need to get my BPV to work correctly plus the two gaskets that go between the turbo and the oil and water lines. They're already ordered, and I believe some or all of them are in stock now, I just have to go back to pick them up... and it's like 20 miles away and I have no time cause I'm working full time now over the summer.

Turbo should be coming in tomorrow hopefully. Then I just need to get a V-band clamp for it, which I already ordered from ebay, plus I need a new nut for the shaft on the compressor side. about this, I've heard OEM toyota is the way to go, but I'm told they don't sell this nut seperately. I think there is a way you can order ALL the nuts/bolts for a CT26 from toyota, but I don't know a part number or anything. so I think for the time being I'm going to use a generic nut from a hardware store.
presure2
QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 14, 2007 - 2:45 AM) [snapback]568346[/snapback]

ok, so I recieved the new fuel pump bracket today and got the car running again. No more honda driving for me!

Boost gauge is hooked up and working now.

I've got to go to toyota at some point to pick up the rest of the things I need to get my BPV to work correctly plus the two gaskets that go between the turbo and the oil and water lines. They're already ordered, and I believe some or all of them are in stock now, I just have to go back to pick them up... and it's like 20 miles away and I have no time cause I'm working full time now over the summer.

Turbo should be coming in tomorrow hopefully. Then I just need to get a V-band clamp for it, which I already ordered from ebay, plus I need a new nut for the shaft on the compressor side. about this, I've heard OEM toyota is the way to go, but I'm told they don't sell this nut seperately. I think there is a way you can order ALL the nuts/bolts for a CT26 from toyota, but I don't know a part number or anything. so I think for the time being I'm going to use a generic nut from a hardware store.

ill say it again, your asking for trouble with that turbo.
6strngs
QUOTE(presure2 @ Jun 15, 2007 - 3:15 AM) [snapback]568754[/snapback]

ill say it again, your asking for trouble with that turbo.

I don't recall you saying that before... so, how exactly am I asking for trouble?
presure2
QUOTE(6strngs @ Jun 15, 2007 - 9:40 AM) [snapback]568782[/snapback]

QUOTE(presure2 @ Jun 15, 2007 - 3:15 AM) [snapback]568754[/snapback]

ill say it again, your asking for trouble with that turbo.

I don't recall you saying that before... so, how exactly am I asking for trouble?

once you take a turbo apart, its no longer in balance.
with speeds over 100,000 rpm, the compressor exducer and shaft NEED to be perfectly balance to have any kind of longjevity.
they need to be balanced, on a machine.
sometimes, the cheapest turbo you find isnt the turbo to buy wink.gif
95CelicaST
There is a guy up here in washington selling a low mileage (80K) CT26 for 200 bucks if you need it. No shaft play.
milnersXcoupe
Pull off those 'rubber' Oil Lines and install the Braided Aircraft Lines before you street this.

Braided Aircraft Lines are not a creation for the 'Rice' 'ronies - it was created because 'rubber' lines that have flaws - can burst - rupture - pin hole to gusher.

Engine Fires - loss of traction - lack of Engine Oil Pressure are valid reasons to run some Earl's products in for Cheap Insurance.
6strngs
Wow... I really hate having to buy things twice... no wait, make that THREE TIMES!!! I had already bought a turbo from Negative, but he seems to have vanished with my money mad.gif Now you're saying this other turbo I got won't be lasting long. great... so what kind of life can I expect from this turbo if I don't have it balanced? I'd need a few weeks to save up some money for a different one.

also, I never said steel braided lines were ricy, but that getting hose covers for rubber lines to make them look like stainless was. lol. but yeah, this was a way I saw to cut some cost. I do plan on getting the steel braided lines and the canton racing adaptor eventually, I just needed something to get me by for the time being. I did get hose covers for added protection, and I will keep an eye on them. I also have an oil pressure gauge, so if a line did pop, hopefully I'd be able to see it on the gauge and pull over and shut the car off before it's too late...

so, this project has been officially delayed due to a lack of funds. I still need to get:
a nut for the turbo compressor wheel $2
a Plug for EGT bung on the manifold $2
something to mount the Intercooler with $15
New oil $36
couple feet of 3/8" fuel hose and T's for the coolant lines $20
oil restrictor $23
muffler $100
catalytic converter $80
have a second bung welded on DP $50 ?
and then a custom exhaust $300-500

Total cost of $628-828... so that'll be at least 3 weeks, but possibly more. But, I've only gotten one estimate on the exhaust and it was an import performance place... I'm going to ask some exhaust shops because I'd think they could do it cheaper.
jcaron9gt4
well you should be fine for a bit without the braided lines. While it isnt the best way to go, if you cover them up good and keep an eye on them, they will be fine for a while. Just try and make them avoid the downpipe as much as possible. I admit, they are a bit "ricey" but i was also short on money and just needed my car to be driveable. But now i finally have everything i needed like my water injection and stuff, i can now focus on some more important stuff like all my oil lines. But good luck with the build man!!
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