It was a VERY hot day today, probably one of the hottest we have seen down here in a while. I was making a long drive up to my Gf's and I noticed(again, because this has happened before) that the temp guage needle keeps going towards the H. Infact by the time I decided to turn the AC off, it was above the funky F thing.

I stopped by Autozone and got some anti-freeze and a new thermostat and gaskets which I will be replacing in the morning after my car cools.

After getting to the GF's house, I popped the hood and noticed that my radiator is actually loose inside it's holders. It actually wobbles back and forth because the rubber clamps that hold it down (located on the top left and right of your radiator) are broken. They seem to have dried with age and snapped.

This isn't the stock radiator and from the looks of it, whoever replaced it might have put in the wrong one.

I need to know what the parts/numbers are for those clamps that hold down the radiator.
I need to know how many pounds of pressure the cap on the top of the radiator is supposed to pop at. (mine says 16)
I need to know what else I can do to fix the problem of the overheating engine.
I need to know if there is supposed to be a hole in the engine coolant jug neck.

Edit: I forgot to ask, but next to our radiators (5SFE), there is a white/tannish tube that goes down to a jug of engine coolant. If you take off the cap and look down into the tube, is there supposed to be a hole on the side? I thought it works off of vaccuum pressure and therefor a hole would make that pointless. I need to know if that hole is supposed to be there or not cause tomorrow morning i am going to plug it in an effort to fix this problem.

Thanks guys!

There is no way I can run around in this heat for much longer w/o my precious AC!

it could be a partially opening thermostat or the extra heat from the AC is heatsoaking your radiator.

the rad for the AT is a little thicker than the MT, just that swap could help solve your issue. it doesnt do this around town, only on the highway?

Well, the problem is I don't drive for long periods of time in town, its only when I hit the highway for about 20 minutes.

What do you mean AT/MT? swap?

Well the thermostat is NOT on the right side of the engine.

AND i broke some vacuum lines that connect to a green cap thing. Can anyone tell me what that is and if i need it to drive?

the green cap has two lines that come out of it.

Can anyone post a picture of their 5sfe engine bay please?

i think its called a bimetal vacuum valve...

thanks! is it very important? looks like it will cost me around 70 bucks.

Howcome I can only find them for ST and not the GT? is it called something else in the GT? Oh and on some of those online parts DB's it says the bimetallic valve is part of the fuel delivery system... that's probably not good if its broken then...

i just returned from vegas and the same thing was happening to me. going up the incline 3500 to 5000 ft elevation pretty much brought my needle to the "H". It was horrible. Good thing AAA came and towed me 100 miles to barstow for free, lol. It was cooler at night plus all downhill so i was able to make it all the way home without a problem.

good thing you got home ok!

I was looking around and found the part number for what I broke: 90925-05068

Found on this site: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/topic/91609-1.html

"oh yeah, that's the Thermo Vacuum Valve aka TVV (for EVAP). I can't explain exactly what it does or how it works in relation to your engine's performance but those hoses lead to the charcoal canister and the other leads to the throttle valve. Mine was broken for years and it made no difference whatsoever. If you are worried about it I would go to the junkyard and grab one off of an engine because they want $30 at the parts store for it. Otherwise, dont worry about. If it were ever a real problem then you would have heard ppl talking about it on this forum. Perhaps when you find out what it does and how it works you can fill us in."

Some people call it a BVSV or bi-metal vacuum switching valve.

50 bucks from parts store

10 from junk? what cars can i get that off? (94 5sfe)

Apparently it doesn't do anything cause that guy said his broke and didnt make a difference.

One thing partially solved but i still can't run the AC w/o overheating.

What do you guys do with your cars? I just went to San Diego and back to Vegas,
85 m/h on cruise control - without slowing down uphill or downhill - temp was rock solid
all the way - 4.5 hours one way. It was 110F in Vegas when I came back and I had no problems -
stock GT auto.

I bought it as it was.

Only, when I bought it, the temp wasn't near as hot/humid as it is now.

I'm sure when it gets colder it will be fine...

i hope

but i do need to know what i can do to fix the overheating problem for good

[quote name='valerit1' date='Aug 12, 2007 - 2:01 PM' post='587436']
What do you guys do with your cars? I just went to San Diego and back to Vegas,
85 m/h on cruise control - without slowing down uphill or downhill - temp was rock solid
all the way - 4.5 hours one way. It was 110F in Vegas when I came back and I had no problems -
stock GT auto.

yea....about that...i wasn't paying attention and somehow the AC was magically turned on...the rest is history...hahaha

what transmission do you have?

i run manual

oh and is it bad to run without that thing I broke?

I drove 40 miles constant and it didnt seem to do anything.

what i meant is that cars with an automatic transmission have a radiator that has a higher cooling capacity since the AT fluid is cooled by the engine coolant also. you can put one in your MT for some extra cooling capacity.

are your fans coming on?

Everything is running, i just replaced the cap, apparently it was the wrong one, but also it is hot as hell outside.

hopefully when it cools everything will run fine.