Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Tigawoods' 1995 Celica
6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > My Project
Pages: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43
Tigawoods
for some reason my projects always end up adding up quite a bit lol. I have just one more package coming in with the return 6AN hose and a 1/8npt fitting adapter to fit a temp sensor in.

but today I got in the remaining AN fittings, adapters, 30/50A relays, Racepak sensors and the coolest bits...

4" Spal Puller and Setrab 13 row
This is going to sit above the rear diffuser since there wont be much airflow, the fan will draw out the heat



SwissFerdi
Racecar.
Box
.racecaR
Tigawoods
got to tear apart some things this weekend and start to plan out the setup.

Box full of parts I got to complete the conversion. LOTS AND LOTS of fittings.
The black box on the left is a Rivet Nut tool. I wish I would have gotten on of these a LOOOONG time ago


Got this sensor block for the low-pressure side. The sensor in the pic is for the Racepak. I decided after messing around with a couple configurations that I would use this sensor for the Oil Temp and a regular 1-Wire on this block as It has another NPT port on it I can use to ground the 1-wire sensor. There is another 3/8 fitting for the other side, i just didnt put it in at the time of the pic


I found out this weekend that the Earls 6AN power steering hose that I got to use for the high-pressure line is thicker than normal 6AN power steering hose so the fittings I got for it wont work. I have to order fittings specifically for that hose from Earls.

expensive ass 16x1.5 to 6AN fittings.

One alum 120degree fitting for the low pressure and a 90 for the high-pressure line. Sadly they dont make a 120 for the high-pressure hose so hopefully, it will be able to make the turn. I will try to get better pictures next time. I also have to clean up all that grease and make it a bit more presentable down there


a pic of the rear of my cluster since I had to take it out to grab some of the sensor wires


I didnt get a pic of all the plastics removed but I think I found the location I will be putting the pump. I am looking to have it mount somewhere in front of the rear strut tower, utilizing the top rear seat bracket mounting holes and will also probably have to weld on a mounting tab to the 3pt-bar.



mounted the fan to the PS cooler.





got a barrel crimper in so I can start putting together some Deutsch autosport connectors. This thing is fun to use.

njccmd2002
wow.... too much.... nice work...
BonzaiCelica
i dont understand what im seeing
Box
Power steering cooler to finish off the electrohydraulic conversion. Mounting it all in the back for ease of access and weight distribution, I suppose because racecar.
Tigawoods
yeah. something along those lines with a little boredom mixed in.


Got the proper fittings in from Holley. Makes sense that the fittings for the high pressure line should be steel and not aluminium. You can tell from the pic how much larger the -6AN PS lines are than the normal braided -6AN.
Should be able to make some progress now this weekend with running the lines, and laying out the wiring for everything.
Also go the pumps bracket fixed. A local shop basically welded on what looks like an aluminum shifter base bushing.

Tigawoods
made a bit of progress, despite the garage being freezing for the majority of the weekend.


assembled some of the Earls Power steering Hose ends on the PS high-pressure hose. These took alot more effort to hook up compared or regular nylon braided AN hose.


a pic of the repaired bracket on the pump



I had a thought and decided to chase it to see if I could improve how the pump performs. The wiring I have for the pumps ECU right now basically just gives the pump power. The ECU is able to sense pressure and will 'idle' down when there isnt much steering demand. There is a speed sensor input but my speed sensor isnt working at the moment. Thats a later fix.
SO I decided to look up the wiring similarities between this MR2 Pump and the BEAMS pump. And behold, they have the same inputs into the ECU....but what those inputs do...idk. Im trying to decide if I should just take the wires that were going to the BEAMS pump and just wire them into the MR2 pump and see what happens...
LEFT-BEAMS---RIGHT-MR2



back to the progress
bulkhead fitting for high pressure line



testing out the route and length...no, zipties wont be the final mounting method



tested out the rivnut tool. and damn I wish I got one of these years ago




the cool part of the weekend!



Getting some brackets welded up so I can finally mount the pump. Also getting a more sturdy bracket welded up for the fan in the rear. Other than that just have a bit of wiring to finish up and to run the low-pressure line (didnt have enough)
Tigawoods
The brackets should be done for this weekend to mount the pump.
Got some of the wiring done this weekend along with running the low pressure hose and PS fluid temp block. Didnt take many pics.



Unessecarily made a 8FT twist of wires for the PS pump. 12V/SPD/PSCT/PS



trying to decide on which tire to go with this season. The R888R's are very new and not yet well reviewed

RE71R's

or
R88R's
Batman722
Your car looks so $hitty without the lense over the light in the hatch.
Fail.
Tigawoods
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Feb 13, 2017 - 8:30 PM) *
Your car looks so $hitty without the lense over the light in the hatch.
Fail.

mkernz22
laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif
Tigawoods
Got a butt load done this weekend.
removed the bracket for the belt PS pump. Its so empty down there now as well as where the old reservoir area





picked up the brackets I had welded. not bad for free!



bracket welded for the fan



got to work with the garage doors open, 60 degrees!!!


the rest of these pics are primarily of the bracketing and mounting of the pump












Basically mounted and done! Still have about a days work before I can run it. Hopefully it works!




bryanf
Wow, really ambitious! Nice work.
Batman722
What fluid are you using ?
MR2s have a specific fluid, not regular stuff.
Tigawoods
QUOTE (bryanf @ Feb 20, 2017 - 11:36 AM) *
Wow, really ambitious! Nice work.

Thanks! hopefully it all pans out haha

QUOTE (Batman722 @ Feb 20, 2017 - 2:05 PM) *
What fluid are you using ?
MR2s have a specific fluid, not regular stuff.

Yeah, I saw that its been discontinued.
Doing a bit of digging came to find Nissan EHPS fluid and Amsoil EHPS Fluid where the two alternatives to the crazy expensive toyota brand fluid
njccmd2002
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Feb 20, 2017 - 1:05 PM) *
What fluid are you using ?
MR2s have a specific fluid, not regular stuff.



Is it specific to the pump or the rack. Cuz would it not be the celi rack
Tigawoods
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Feb 21, 2017 - 3:09 AM) *
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Feb 20, 2017 - 1:05 PM) *
What fluid are you using ?
MR2s have a specific fluid, not regular stuff.



Is it specific to the pump or the rack. Cuz would it not be the celi rack

specific for the pump. Im not sure yet how it will affect the rack. I havent read anything on it yet but I am still looking.
This is the name of the Amsoil Fluid:
Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Power Steering Fluid
Tigawoods
decided on Pentosin CHF 11S
It should work fine with the pump, and fingers crossed shouldnt cause any leaks in the rack. From what I could find the seal material doesnt really differ between our rack and the MRS, its just the fluid that changes

Box
My brother's Audi calls for Pentosin CHF 202, what're the differences between it and the CHF 11S I don't know since they're both synthetic hydraulic fluids and seem to have the same specs but it does say "power steering fluid" on the CHF 202 container. I also noticed the CHF 202 was green, which I guess could come in handy for differentiating a power steering or brake leak just by the fluid colour.
Tigawoods
QUOTE (Box @ Feb 28, 2017 - 5:45 PM) *
My brother's Audi calls for Pentosin CHF 202, what're the differences between it and the CHF 11S I don't know since they're both synthetic hydraulic fluids and seem to have the same specs but it does say "power steering fluid" on the CHF 202 container. I also noticed the CHF 202 was green, which I guess could come in handy for differentiating a power steering or brake leak just by the fluid colour.

I havent found any info on the difference between the two other than one comment on a forum saying that the 202 is the replacement for the 11S. BUT Pentosin still markets the two together. They are both compatible and mixable with eachother.
Yeah, I found out today that it was green when I was looking into the brand a bit futher. I am ALL about having different colored fluids. My brake fluid is Blue (which has now since been banned and is only offered in amber color now, I only have half a liter of it left frown.gif ), PS will be Green, Oil is ...oil, and coolant is pinkish. I wont have any issues now trying to differentiate the fluids if there is ever a leak haha.
Box
Speaking of the ATE Super Blue I found someone that still has it listed for sale:
http://www.mzmperformance.com/ate-super-bl...luid-dot-4.html

They're BBB accredited and located in Texas, I just finished switching to Castrol DOT 4 otherwise I would try ordering some now.
Tigawoods

AWESOME find!! I will have to order some from them this weekend. My plan was to have both blue and amber so it would be easier to tell when the old fluid is completely flushed out.



for those of you reading and would like to know why I am so excited to possibly have a source for ATE Blue ( I am going to call them about their stock)

http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/braking-n...s-distribution/
Tigawoods
got fluid in the system and no leaks so far....so far.



here are a couple pics I took while getting some more things situated
I wasnt able to get the pump running with the relay attached. When power was applied, the relay and pump just kept clicking but not engaging. So I took out the relay, left the circuit breaker and wired the pump to a switch. I had taken off the pump ecu cover and the bottom half just to make sure the pump wasnt the issue.


the main issue of the weekend was mounting the lines under the car. I only had one avenue in mind and the lines hug so close together that there is no way to use adel clamps or any other sort of hose separator. SO I came up with the idea to make some of these






Had to add in the new sensors for the racepak





trying out motul for the first time, probably wont be able to tell the difference


also saw something that Im not sure if this is an issue or not but I will have to monitor it.
Oil permeating from the hose coming from the intake

Defgeph
Do you have an idea of what you spent on this steering project?
Looks great as usual.
mkernz22
You should probably get some real hoses cause those are sh!t and did the same thing when I bought my alltrac.. (PO installed them)

Otherwise she's looking great man!
Tigawoods
QUOTE (Defgeph @ Mar 28, 2017 - 9:53 PM) *
Do you have an idea of what you spent on this steering project?
Looks great as usual.

Yup, I have a very clear idea. One that I am doing my best to try and forget

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Mar 28, 2017 - 11:18 PM) *
You should probably get some real hoses cause those are sh!t and did the same thing when I bought my alltrac.. (PO installed them)

Otherwise she's looking great man!

They are fine for vacuum but I guess if there is any sort of oil in the system it will permeate out of that hose. I guess that's why my catch tank hasn't been picking up anything
Tigawoods
quick update on the power steering. I drove the car for the first time since November and now with the new PS setup. The pump is a little finicky, but there are alot of variables in why it is acting the way it is. Its a used pump so I cant say for sure if it is in 100% tip top shape. Ill do a summary right up in a couple weeks once I play around with the setup a bit more, but for now it is working so on to the last project of the "winter"


the last thing before spring is the lip and skirts. I have never done a lick of body work and I already am nervous about pulling the trigger on mounting anything, both for the semi-permanence of the application of the lip (not being able to remove the bumper without removing the lip) and for the questionable aesthetic look of how the lip and skirts will look together.

Here are the 2 issues that I am fighting with:
1. Mounting the front lip and having it be removable all while not showing any sort of visible holes or whatever needed for nuts and bolts. I want an adhesive mount look but a nut and bolt mount hold
2. Are the design of the skirts going to match with the lip since the lip sticks out quite a bit towards the rear

While I battle and try to find a solution for both of those problems, here are a few pics of them poorly mocked up







Box
Hmmm, at some angles like the second picture I think it could work but then in the third and fourth picture I'm not entirely sure.
cheela
the lip flares out at the side which is kinda mimicked by the side skirts as well so it could work.

As for mounting, the lip can be held on by double-sided tape where it touches the bumper on the sides and in the middle grill area. That's how i did my TOMs lip. Not sure how the bottom of that lip is as it's fiberglass rep but the TOMs lip has mounting points that line up with where the underplastics attach to the bumper so maybe you could make something simliar to mount it. My lip is definitely not permanent as I used to take it off when I drove it in the winter and it took all of 5 minutes to mount/unmount.
Tigawoods
You are right they do kind of match in that sense.

I'm sure the OE or TRD skirts would match better.

Maybe I am underestimating the hold of tape? I have some but was really hoping for a more solid mount. Something that would prevent a tearoff from a bit o downforce
Tigawoods
tackling a few tasks concurrently

lip and skirts still are at paint

instead of building a new smaller diffuser or re-doing the one I already made I saved the money I would have used on that, sold the CUSCO underbrace and grabbed



I had been eying these for the past 2 years and had been frequently checking in to see if I could get them anodized a different color. no go




so I got them powder coated





picked up some RPF1's for cheap. the fronts are going to be tricky to fit so I am not sure if I will keep them or not







and the lucky 96 camry that was kind enough to donate its hubs to me.
had to push out the pos next to get some space to access the camry

easternpiro1
Looking good! keep it up!
jordisonjr
QUOTE (Tigawoods @ May 2, 2017 - 8:41 PM) *
tackling a few tasks concurrently

lip and skirts still are at paint

Just one lip hey? wink.gif Did you end up deciding to not keeping the Aeromagic front?
Are those the rear trailing arms? How will those compare in ride to having a Heim joint rather than rubber bushings?


HectortheRican
Really curious to hear how those T3 rear arms affect ride quality. Racecars gotta drive on roads too sometimes.
Tigawoods
QUOTE (easternpiro1 @ May 3, 2017 - 4:49 AM) *
Looking good! keep it up!

he lives!!!!!

QUOTE (jordisonjr @ May 3, 2017 - 9:43 AM) *
Just one lip hey? wink.gif Did you end up deciding to not keeping the Aeromagic front?
Are those the rear trailing arms? How will those compare in ride to having a Heim joint rather than rubber bushings?

I have the Aeromagic and the Euro sides at paint, I am keeping the front lip but the sides...remains to be seen
yup all the arms in the rear.
It will probably be a bit harsher of a ride in the rear but not really noticeable in my situation

QUOTE (HectortheRican @ May 3, 2017 - 12:43 PM) *
Really curious to hear how those T3 rear arms affect ride quality. Racecars gotta drive on roads too sometimes.

my car is stiff as hell already id be surprised if I notice much of a difference
Box
You'll just get more harshness transmitted into the body of the car, shouldn't really make it stiffer per se. When I replace the rear arms on the Firebird I was going to go with Johnny/Roto joints since they offer the articulation benefits of a Heim joint but with reduced harshness, plus they can be rebuilt.
cheela
T3 stuff is awesome!
I got a list of about $2000 or $3000 worth of stuff to buy from them for my 1st gen. basically all the suspension parts. lol
Box
QUOTE (cheela @ May 3, 2017 - 3:30 PM) *
T3 stuff is awesome!
I got a list of about $2000 or $3000 worth of stuff to buy from them for my 1st gen. basically all the suspension parts. lol

Nothing wrong with that, pretty much how it is with me and the bird. Everything I want to do is brakes and suspension. You should see if anyone makes a Watt's link for the first gen Celica, I know it's the first major mod I want to do with the Firebird.
mkernz22
someone wanted you to check these out mike

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1090099
jordisonjr
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ May 8, 2017 - 12:02 PM) *
someone wanted you to check these out mike

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1090099

Ahh, I forgot you can't tag people on this forum.
Tigawoods
Yeah I saw them, Ive thought about doing that type of mod for a while but havent found a way for it to look good and still be functional.


Had a pain with the rear knuckles this past weekend.
Those 12" bolts are no joke. Ended up taking it to a machine shop to sort out.

Hopefully it all works out so that I can install this weekend.

Also still looking for a set of wheels to replace the RPF1's. There is no way the front will fit well methinks
Tigawoods
on the eve of what will hopefully be a successful work day, here is a dump of pics from what I got up to yesterday evening

here are some pics of the machined out knuckle bolts and the pushed out trailing arm knuckle bushing, following that are a few pics of what they looked like after I spent a few minutes hitting them with the glass media blaster
















towards the end of the night, i found out that the T3 kit is a bit incomplete. On each heim joint are a couple spacers. They come with 2 sizes, one large one used for the big knuckle and subframe bolts and a smaller sixe that is used for the trailing arm knuckle bolts. I guess for whatever reason T3 has 2 of the control arms using the smaller bolts. Which they dont on our car. So I contacted them to see if they could send me the larger diameter spacers. For the time being I am going to see if I can drill the smaller ones out to the size then need to be




I had enough of the large spacers to bolt everything to the subframe but not enough to bolt them to the knuckle


Energy Suspensions Lubricant is AWESOME, id say it is a must have for anyone doing polyurethane bits. So much better then what came with the front LCA bushing from poland.


the DBA rear STI rotors next to the ST205 rears



how I left it for the night
Box
Will be interesting to see how it performs once all back together, shame about them sending the wrong size spacers.
BonzaiCelica
isn't this what you made or were looking at making??

http://www.farpost.ru/novosibirsk/auto/gt/...d-42540873.html

Tigawoods
welp the STI rotors didnt fit...of course. Didnt take very long to figure that out.
They mounted on the hub fine but the issue came when I went to mount the caliper. The disc is 2mm too thick. They are 20mm thick not 18mm as I had read. SO either I may shave them down so its not $$$ down the drain and useless discs OR. Try and redrill the ST205 rotors when after a bit of consideration, looks to be feasible

Also. E-Brake assembly is a pain do. No matter how many times I do it, its always the WORST


QUOTE (Box @ May 13, 2017 - 5:33 PM) *
Will be interesting to see how it performs once all back together, shame about them sending the wrong size spacers.

So far everything has no give haha

QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ May 13, 2017 - 8:59 PM) *
isn't this what you made or were looking at making??

http://www.farpost.ru/novosibirsk/auto/gt/...d-42540873.html


Yeah, that was before I found other things to do to keep me busy haha
Tigawoods
got the right spacers in for the arms and re-installed them and re-greased the knuckle bolts to make sure that they never stick again


took time to clean and grease the components in the calipers. took a shot of everything while it is clean



and finally took the time to install the front lip. For a first time putting any sort of exterior mod on the car it went fairly smoothly. The fit inst 100% but It doesnt really bother me.
Next is the skirts, which will be a bit more difficult




also, have to sell the RPF1's since they dont fit. Have my eyes on a set of WEDS that are even lighter.
Found out that Gridlife requires a cage. So I am starting to look into half cages. That means the 3 point rear, harness bar and floor bar may be for sale at somepoint
jordisonjr
Front lip looks great! Looking forward to seeing it all installed.
BonzaiCelica
yea lip looks awesome. I would switch to a pre face bumper along with preface fogs if i had that lip in my garage.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2024 Invision Power Services, Inc.