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Full Version: Tigawoods' 1995 Celica
6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > My Project
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Tigawoods
looked it up hes actually quite a distance away.
i think im just going to have to go with toyota or something.
junkyards nearby are closed tomorrow.
im going to give the shop that rebuilt my engine a call and see if they have any lying around.

i went to toyota twice 3 napa autopart stores, advanced auto, autozone, and autoparts warehouse
kill me
RvA944
Mike someone has to have that bolt.............. you might try a screw supply house on monday if you strick out else where. I'm sure you have a bunch of them down that way.
Tigawoods
yeah theres one nearby that might have it but it was closed today. i can either do that or go to a junkyard on monday.
i really need to get it done so it can get tuned for this sundays race
hatchy_gt-s
Hey I have a couple extra from my rebuild if you want 1 I can send it to you.
Tigawoods
so here is the deal...everyone knows i had to get a new bolt which toyota surprised me with. i guess my birthday came early


life was good.


started to torque the cam bearing cap bolts again....this time being soooooo cautious to not break another bolt
specs said 15lbs which isnt much.

nervous but everything was fine.
till
NO TREAD! one of the bolts stripped the hole.
didnt have a tap set.
(9:00pm)
paid $40 at Lowes for a tap set where i only needed one tap bit.

came back. dad came out to drill and tap the hole. which he did.
and we had to get a bigger bolt for that hole 8mm (stockers are 7)

everything was ok from that point on.

then when were where about to close up the engine my buddy noticed one of the caps was backwards.
and we had to drill out the other side of the cap hole so that the bigger bolt could fit through it.
did that.
then had to tighten them back down.
SNAP!
the stock bolt snapped.

i just stood there.

after 5 minutes of being in shock i said f it im going to bed.
let me just take out the other bolt and im done. screw this project.

i reached in my pocket for a socket.
and pulled out a BOLT!!!!!!!
YESSSSSS!!!
i was very conservative with how i tightened it.
closed up the engine.

all i have left it the alternator.
intake and oil.

well this project has definitely surpassed my motor mount project
RvA944
Sounds like a hellauva night to me!!!!

Glad it all worked out for you. Now you just need to get her running again. Sunday is getting here quick!

Tigawoods
cars on all fours.
oil in. now im just sitting waiting for my buddy to bring over his timing light.
if all is well (IM PRAAAYING)
going to go get it tuned right after
ill post results along with the results of my last dyno.
RvA944
Well with any luck she'll fire right up and purr like a kitten
Tigawoods
HA!
or not and make the most horrible sound in the world.

well i was a bit distraught after it didnt start up.

went to go add a couple of hours to my 3hrs of sleep i got last night.

now im typing this.
idk what to do.

adjust the timing, but now i have to open up the valve cover again.
i was told to rotate the distributor 180 degrees and try again
RvA944
My nephew battled that for a day after a rebuild, crank crank pop pop, crank pop pop pop crank pop pop...... somone finaly asked him did he try turing the distributor 180............. brrrrrrrrrrroooommmmm she lit right up. Hope thats all it is.
Tigawoods
so. opened it back up

and the marks on the cams where off. but when i closed it up they were aligned.
so i guess i have to take off the exhaust cam. turn the crank to TDC
then put it back on


and im not sure if the distributor should have or not have that gap btwn it and the camshaft.
but it looks to be basically almost flush with the block



and also. i have no control over how the camshaft pulley mounts. there is a notch in the end of the camshaft and it mounts wherever that is turned.


so.
any input?




I plan to use azian_advanced's tutorial. and start the car before i put it all back together again
24. Warning: The next two following steps will be the most difficult and longest steps. Get a box of kleenex ready just in case .
In this step, you will try to test start the car and see if the timing is right. Since there is no coolant (if you replaced your water pump) and the alternator is not attached, you can't run your engine for long. If the car starts and idles fine, you're golden! Otherwise, you'll need to make adjustments by moving the timing belt back and forth on the camshaft timing pulley til you get it right.

To start off, put the timing belt on the camshaft timing pulley and make sure it's fairly tight. Then loosen the tensioner pulley bolt until it springs back tight putting tension back on the timing belt. Retighten the tensioner pulley bolt. If you had used the alternative method from step 14, then put the spark plug and wire back on. Put the negative terminal back on the battery. Pray... now get in the car and start it with the hopes of it running normally. If it does, congrats as you just saved the extra trouble in having to adjust the timing and proceed to step 26.
Rusty
QUOTE
and the marks on the cams where off. but when i closed it up they were aligned.


how does that happen? and when did you get cams??
RvA944
Not sure what to tell ya there Mike, Maybe Manny will chime in or better yet give him a call.....
Johnnyny
QUOTE (RvA944 @ Jul 23, 2010 - 3:09 PM) *
Not sure what to tell ya there Mike, Maybe Manny will chime in or better yet give him a call.....



if u need any more 5s parts found a gt in a yard near me its missing exhaust manifold but rest is there engine wise
Tigawoods
as of 8pm it started.

its running super rich.

idling btwn 600-1500
and after a minute or two it shuts off

drove it out around the block and it ran choppy as well.
the distributor is adjusted so its fully retarted
Tigawoods
other than the redic idle that i will be fixing when i wake up i also have another serious issue.



my rear passenger side coilover pissed oil.
and is completely blown.
when we took the car for a drive, it hit has hard as a rock over a couple bumps.
i called Ksport(earlier in the day) and they said its $110 per coil to fix and it would take 2-3 days depending on if the have the parts or not.
i think its reasonable.

but the question is....
should i still race on sunday.
im slightly on the fence
what do you all think
jordisonjr
Well it depends, If its gunna cause more damaged to the coilover I'd say its a no go.
Its not worth it to do more damage and cause yourself more money and work for one race.
On the other hand, If you can make it work without making anything extensively worse, then go for it.
I know what its like having a passion for something like that and having to sit on the side lines while everyone else is out there racing.


But thats just my opinion, being a broke college student, I always have to look at money wise first haha.

gl with the decision man.
Johnnyny
another ksports gone bad i see, yeah i wouldn't race with three legs and a bad idle like dat u might do some more damage
RvA944
Well Mike,

With a blown strut hows she going to handle to start off with? And I'm planning on being there so if you don't mind taking a few steps backwards you could run my rig. Yeah she's a bone stock AT200 wearing nasty beatup paint right now so she slow but she'll be there.
Stambo
is the timing still off?
Tigawoods
sadly i will have to miss it.
and the unfortunate part is that that will be end of my auto-x for the summer.
The Coil is just too bad to put that kind of stress on it. I am taking it off on monday and shipping it to Ksport to get rebuilt. I am trying to go to Toronto this coming week so it will be good for me that the car will be out of sight out of mind. And when i get back hopefully the coil will be there

i possibly will be able to make one or two in the Pittsburgh area this fall.

timing is still a bit off.
got my A/F gauge today but AMCmoe forgot one of the wires in the package so i am trying to go pick it up from him tomorrow.
idle is a bit better than it was last night but it is still super rich and idles btwn 500-850 until eventually stalling out

monday is supposed to be a cooler day than the past few (95+)
so i am going to a local shop to get it tuned.
Batman722
Mike, have you changed your 02 sensor ? Mine went bad a little while after I installed the cams...it's only like $35 at autozone for the universial 02 for our cars.
Rusty
have you tried the ECU reset?
Tigawoods
same o2 sensor. maybe i should replace that before i got get it tuned on monday.
after how rich it had ran since it first started, yeah i bet it will be or is on the fritz


i havent really done much other than set the map on the SAFC to different settings. trial and error basically.
i have it at 3% correction at idle which helped even it out. as of now it idles from 690-790 but usually stays btwn 710-780 if im lucky.
after a bit it drops down to 500 then overcompensates and peaks up to 1100 then back down to 500 and keeps going in that pattern until i level it out back to 700 by giving it a bit of gas
hopefully i can get the plug from AMCmoe today and get a better view of how its running
808celica
tuning done yet????
RvA944
Hey Mike,

Well ya didn't miss much down there this weekend. Well I guess it would have depended on what class you would have run in. I was in HS and that was in the third heat. Most of us got one run in before it hit. Rain...... hail.... wind..... lighting........ it was nasty. So they called the third heat a washout. and sent us on our ways. frown.gif

Met a lot of good people down there and I'm looking forward to going back!

Hope the tunning is going well.
Tigawoods
well no.
had an attempt at a tune.

Here is the situation the night before, note i have the gauge now.
I tuned it a bit myself the night before. Put the Correction at 9% at 800rpm to lean out the idle. still stayed at 10
also tried to fix the 4000rpm+ problem where the AFR would go from 13.5 to 10.

During Tune (which i paid $45 and i could have done it myself)
we went out for a drive and did a street tune.
he bumped the correction to 19% or so and the AFR at idle only went up to about 12.
We also bumped up the correction at 4000k and barely made a change.

we are taking the valve off tonight. checking a few things and doing a trial and error run.


called ksport today for a new shock. takes 2 weeks to get it in
Batman722
change the 02 sensor.
Rusty
what are the specs of the cams you are running??
Tigawoods
specs of the cams? or specs of the performance gain?

after a nice depressing talk to Stef and Dustin last night. We diagnosed and discovered the problem.
Valve shims.

The new shims that I had with the new cams are all different sizes and belong on different valves.
crap.
So this morning i have to gout out and get a feeler gauge, micrometer, and yes dustin a new o2sensor and measure all the gaps btwn the lobes and shims and figure out which ones need to go where.
looks like i gotta long week ahead of me
Rusty
specs of the cams
Batman722
QUOTE (Rusty @ Jul 27, 2010 - 2:16 PM) *
specs of the cams

they are 294s (overall performance grind)
http://webcamshafts.com/pages/automobile/t...216_000901.html

they were mine originally, I posted about them here

with a quick comparison dyno

Rusty
thanks for the info link batman. I had a feeling he might be going for those.

would be nice to compare dyno, when tiga is ready.
Tigawoods
i have time to dyno it the next 2 weeks. im taking a break from the car for a couple days. Friday night im going at it and hopefully i can finish it by sunday. And also maybe get a new caliper and flex pipe in that same time period as well
Tigawoods
well i took the exhaust cam off and measured the shims.
I got measurements from .1175" up to .1275"

while the exhaust cam was out i measured the valve clearances on the intake cam.
I started with the smallest feeler gauge .008"
it did not fit under a single one expect for the 6th valve. And on that valve i tried the next gauge and it did not clear.
frown.gif frown.gif


next i am going to take the intake cam out and check the measurements of those shims
from how they look they seem like they are the same as the ones as i took out of the exhaust valves. lets hope not, because i need alot more clearance room than what im getting thus far
Batman722
Exhaust Valve .............. .011-.015 (.29-.38)
Intake Valve ............... .007-.011 (.19-.29)
in. (mm)
Tigawoods
thats a relief!
thanks dustin,
i was thinking that the gap needed to be a decent size bigger.
its funny because you cant even see a .008" gap.
it looked exactly the same as the one where the lobe was making contact
Tigawoods
i doubt this is all going to work with the shims i was given.
the only ones on the intake that are giving me clearance are the shims that are btwn .116-.118
and i only have 4 of them. and they are all on the intake leaving me with 4 other valves that dont clear.

and all the rest are on the exhaust and none of them clear as well.

from .122-.1275
they dont clear at all.

all the stock shims go from .105-.111
the only ones from the stock shims i will be able to use is .109 and above.

i would rather not order any because they wont get here until wednesday. I mean...i SHOULD wait but i really dont want to.
Tigawoods
SO!
Here is a note of where i am at with all the clearances

counting left to right on the valves as you go down the list
all measurements are in inches, my micrometer only does inches


INTAKE
clearance btwn .007-.011

SHIM GAP
.116 .008
.110 .010
.118 .008
.110 .016-17
.111 .016-17
.1175 .010
.109 .015

EXHAUST
clearance btwn .011-.015

SHIM GAP
.122 NO CLEARANCE
.109 .015
.109 .016
.109 .016
.1235 .008
.1085 .020-25
.122 NO CLEARANCE
.122 .008

_________________________________________________


This is a list of the remaining shims (excluding a few very small unusable shims)
.108 x2
.1085 x2
.124 x2
.1255 x2
.126
.1275x3


now...wtf do i do
RvA944
Well........ if i was in your shoes there Mike I wouild wait and ge tthe right ones. You already have to apart why make more work for yourself and or risk hurting the head???????
Batman722
heavy drinking tonight
Tigawoods
you mean at 5pm!!!!!
thats the afternoon!!!

and i got your message you delinquents



here is a copy of whats on the previous page for those of you who dont like to look for things lol

QUOTE (Tigawoods @ Jul 31, 2010 - 5:10 PM) *
SO!
Here is a note of where i am at with all the clearances

counting left to right on the valves as you go down the list
all measurements are in inches, my micrometer only does inches


INTAKE
clearance btwn .007-.011

SHIM GAP
.116 .008
.110 .010
.118 .008
.110 .016-17
.111 .016-17
.116 .008
.1175 .010
.109 .015

EXHAUST
clearance btwn .011-.015

SHIM GAP
.122 NO CLEARANCE
.109 .015
.109 .016
.109 .016
.1235 .008
.1085 .020-25
.122 NO CLEARANCE
.122 .008

_________________________________________________


This is a list of the remaining shims (excluding a few very small unusable shims)
.108 x2
.1085 x2
.124 x2
.1255 x2
.126
.1275x3


now...wtf do i do
lagos
Mike,

When I did my shims I was able to get away with swapping some of the intake and exhaust shims around to get the clearances that I needed. Just glancing at this it seems like you might be able to do this with a few of them.

Also make sure you are checking this correctly. You need to rotate the crack so that the cam lobes point straight up on each shim.
Tigawoods
yeah today i am going to see how many i can use for the ones that arent meeting up to the clearance standards.
SUPPOSEDLY my friend at an automotive school can get some of my shims remachined on monday while my flex pipe is getting fixed.
if thats the case then i may be in luck.
im making sure the lobes are straight up too.

so today im replacing my rear caliper. removing my midpipe. changing around some of the shims
hurley97
Just to throw a little twist in everything, as a last resort you can also try swapping the cups that the shims sit in. Those cups are all different too, btw. biggrin.gif
Tigawoods
when i take them out i will check them with the micrometer. NOW I HAVE TO DEAL WITH ANOTHER THING TO MEASUURREE!!!!
thus far 4 of them need a higher size and 4 need a lower size
hurley97
I used it as a last resort, there isn't really a good way to measure the buckets. But say you have like 3 or 4 valves that you just cant get right, just try switching the buckets under the shims and see what difference it makes. Try to keep that for last and keep it isolated to only a few valves cause that way is just a guessing game. Stick with what you are doing but just know that you can try that if it gets to that point.
Tigawoods
i had really nothing else to do today so i tried switching a couple of them after i measured them. which im still not sure if i did right.
and it didnt work. i was hopeful. but it didnt.

i guess. ill look back over my notes and see if there are any last minute possible options i have with switching them so i dont have to get alot of them reground on monday.
if the regrounding does go well. then i will make sure i get a couple extras reground as well so just incase if some arent the perfect fit i have others in various sizes
Batman722
and update smile.gif
Tigawoods
MY EAAARS!

that open downpipe sounds nasty

on an unrelated note does anybody know where you can buy new eardrums?

Click For Sound




p.s. sounds like sebulba's podracer
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