How would I know 'for sure' that my mechanic correctly got my timing straight on my car? I mentioned before that he took like 2 hours to figure it out and now I am a bit concerned. There doesn't seem to be any issues but would there be??

Also, is our 5sfe cylinder head a non-interference head?

Anyone on that head question?

it is an interferance engine. if timing is wrong, the valves will smack the pistons

Just out of curiosity, how would you know is it was off?

sorry sir it is noninterfernce

This seems to be a debatable subject. Personally I have no clue, that's why I am asking. I read on other posts to that it is and it isn't. I even called IRA Toyota and asked them and they couldn't help me because the service department was closed today. So...

everything i've read has said that the F head is non-interference and the G head is interference.

EDIT: doing a quick search I came up with this for your timing issue
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/x99c-i...iming-91-toyota
this guy is having timing issues and somebody is helping to walk him through using a timing light. I don't know if it'll help you out, but its there.

Also this:
http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/timing.htm

Edited for correctness

jimmykay, that second article is good. Thanks for your research. Both articles didn't solve my question however because I am definitely not mechanically inclined to do that myself. I can pretty much only install bolt on parts at this point. Thanks though, much appreciated!!

all S series engines are non interference motors. (smayy, you thinking of the ZZ?)

the easiest way to tell would be to verify mechanical timing using the BGB method.
we have a couple of the BGB's posted in the resource thread in GD, you can download the manuals there.

what i like to do is pull the distributor cap off, verify the location of the #1 plug wire (its printed right on the cap if its an OEM cap and also on the wires too if they are OEM).
turn the motor clockwise till the timing mark on the crank pully is @ 0 and check that the rotor attached to the distributor is pointing @ #1, or 180* from #1

Good to know, I think I will try that tomorrow. I got to put in a new radiator anyway, I noticed mine had a couple leaking stress cracks on the top the other day.