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Full Version: How To Disassemble My Distributor?
6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > Engine/Transmission/Maintenance
j0ch0a94ST
Hey guys I've had an issue with my 94 ST running rough until it reaches operating temps ever since I washed the motor. I pulled the plugs and replaced the plugs. There was no water in the chambers. I have pulled the dizzy cap off and there was some moisture inside. I have dried out the cap and sanded down the terminals inside. I have currently pulled the distributor out of the car. So how do I disassemble it to look for trapped water? I've pulled out the 4 main screws but the plastic covers are blocked from coming off by the rotor button. There isn't a screw or anything holding the rotor cap on but it seems stuck. They do come off right? I just don't want to break anything. Anyone with any experience with this please help.

Thanks
Bitter
just letting it sit for a while should dry it out, set it near a heater
j0ch0a94ST
Cleaned the cap and rotor. I have ruled out the dizzy now I fear its an 02 sensor or a vaccum leak. It only runs rough(misfires) when its cold. After it runs and gets warm it runs better but has significant power loss. The wash happened about 3 weeks ago so I think any of that water has evaporated by now.
bccentaur3
I would reset the timing just incase. Since you removed the dizzy then put it back on, chances are ignition timing is off. Get a timing light from someone or even go to Harbor Freight and use that timing light. Set the timing to 10*. Make sure you jump E1 to TE1 on your diagnostic port with a paper clip while doing this. And make sure the engine is up to temp before setting the timing.

See if that helps out with the car running rough.
csscza
ck codes maybe?
bccentaur3
Do you have codes popping up right now?
Stambo
by running rough do you mean its misfiring until it warms up? I'd check the secondary and primary sides of the coil and see if they are any good. Bad coils can cause misfires on cold starts until they dry out. Just an idea.
j0ch0a94ST
got no codes. no check engine light. Definite power loss after it warms up though.
Stambo
its a long shot but maybe once the engine is in closed loop, which happens when the engine is warm the o2 is reading either a lean or rich mixture. If you could, when you have the engine warmed up unplug the o2 sensor so the computer ignores the o2 signal and just gets readings from other sensors. Just an idea.
j0ch0a94ST
QUOTE (Stambo @ Dec 6, 2010 - 12:30 AM) *
its a long shot but maybe once the engine is in closed loop, which happens when the engine is warm the o2 is reading either a lean or rich mixture. If you could, when you have the engine warmed up unplug the o2 sensor so the computer ignores the o2 signal and just gets readings from other sensors. Just an idea.



Sounds like a very solid idea. I may do that tomorrow.
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