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6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > My Project
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urbandork
QUOTE (Rusty @ Jun 10, 2011 - 7:37 PM) *
You said it yourself you are using a S54 transmission with a MR-S LSD, so you are changing the final drive ratio.

Thats why at 4,000rpm your doing 123km/h and the youtube one is doing 141km/h.



the s54 he is running a stock s54 ring and pinion. All that was changed out was the dif. I know this because he bought my transmission.

im the guy who did the write up on the mrS lsd diff in an s54 and here is the thread on it. Along with links where i got all my info from

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...&hl=s54+lsd
BonzaiCelica
Im Afraid you may be right Rusty, here is some video footage! I think I do have a 4.529 final drive gear ratio.



RabidTRD
God that thing sounds beautiful, regardless of what ratio you have.
Edophus
hmm not sure what could be your issue, the fuel is an obvious one, as would be a longer final drive, but not a lot you can do about that, the intake is another, without your stock airbox not much you can do about that either lol. I know you and your freinds car feel different have you compared( not raced) them to see if there is a difference? remember what you feel is the change in torque rather than constant torque and the beams has a more even and flatter torque curve so you could feel less despite it being faster. The mr2 beams airbox had a revision the celica never did to my knowlodge to help with the maf, so even on the stock box there can still be issues, good old maf, achilles heal of the beams.

are you getting a nice surge around 4000rpm? or is the midrange quite flat and constant. really the only thing you can do is get it on a dyno and see what your a/f is anything up till then is clutching at straws.


oh and agreed that is a fine sounding car, would sound termandous revving out to just over 8000rpm biggrin.gif bit like its eating the road.
BonzaiCelica
ahh yea crummy 95 octane. Well with a 4.529 final drive, I will gain more torque right??? Another thing I'm a bit dissatisfied is with my current gearing. only 85 vs 91 mph in 3rd gear. My 4th gear does top out at 107mph in 4th gear, weak!! My top speed has been knocked down a whole 12 mph. I read something on beams forums that the Redtop motor will still produce peak power until 8,000 rpm. The member Protok has a video floating somewhere on youtube of him taking his ST202 to 8 grand. So does this mean you can do it on a stock ecu or does it have to be standalone?? what do you know about 8k on Redtop Motor?? So here's my way of fixing that in the future sometime:



My MAF has a few tricks up my sleeve. Hopefully that will all get sorted out by Thursday or even by Wednesday. Torque actually seems pretty good I think, but ya Dyno Test for sure.
BonzaiCelica
I'm trying to sort out my Air/Fuel Ratio's at the moment with Derrick's AEM Wideband sensor and Honeycomb Airflow Straighteners. Hopefully I can get my hands on an oem Intake box within the next week. Once I get a sensible Air/Fuel Ratio readings, I'll fill up the car with racing fuel and make some video's!! jobless atm
Batman722
I haven't kept up on this thread, what kind of A/F problems have you been having ?
BonzaiCelica
wide open throttle at 7,000 rpm is at 11.4 Ratio.... Wideband sensor is installed behind steering rack/subframe. I know its a bit away down the system, but it was the best place I could put it at. My whole exhaust is one piece from the downpipe back. At cruising speed it fluctuates from 14.1 to 15.2 ratio.
Batman722
sounds normal.
I had a wideband on my 5s and that's totally normal with that motor.
If you think you're too rich, put the OEM fuel pump back in, the walbro pushes way too much.
I had put one in my 5s when I was going to turbo (instead went 3s) and it was super rich.
delusionz
time 4 turbo beams with aftermarket ecu? biggrin.gif
BonzaiCelica
hmm you mean sounds normal with my walbro fuel pump or sounds normal for the beams engine?? I was going to originally buy an oem fuel pump, but I thought the beams and 5s were different. I was going to go with the walbro 190lph When I bought the walbro, I bought it because I thought the more the better. I never had in mind to turbo the beams motor at all. I love the sound on the N/A and quick response.

I would indeed love to turbo my motor but with stock internals. I know I would have to run boost at 6-7psi max and then it would only be a matter of time before I would blow my seals on the pistons right??? Not to turbo savvy. If I were to turbo the beams motor I wouldn't want more than 40 hp and 40 pounds of torque at the crank. Preferably about 30 hp and 30 ft lbs torque would be better. Any more than than and I would just be waiting it spinning my tires.

I'm running on 95ron = 91 octane and I know for a fact that my engine is retarding timing. Is this another cause of my rich air/fuel ratio's???
Fr3AkAzOiD
If you wanted turbo you shouldn't have gotten a BEAMS.

You just have some bugs to work out to get it running right.
You should probably get it on a dyno to see where you are standing.
Malfunctioning sensors are a nightmare, hopefully it's something simply like your SRI creating turbulent air.

Best of luck.
delusionz
Lol, Screw the bugs, spending time and money just to get stock worrking correctly, may aswell go straight for the best possible setup, make it a project car rather than putting it on just DD duties. Beams engine with small turbo, map sensor conversion & ecu. Keep your VVT-i and run 10 pounds on a peashooter like a T28.
BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (Fr3AkAzOiD @ Jun 27, 2011 - 8:12 PM) *
If you wanted turbo you shouldn't have gotten a BEAMS.

You just have some bugs to work out to get it running right.
You should probably get it on a dyno to see where you are standing.
Malfunctioning sensors are a nightmare, hopefully it's something simply like your SRI creating turbulent air.

Best of luck.


ya I want to fix my current problem right now. And then get it on a dyno. My plans was never to have turbo celica. I love the N/A sound! Its my only car that I have, my other daily driver could possibly be a honda 80cc scooter. I wouldn't want my celica to only be a project car. I would love to switch it to map right about now!! Oh well all in good time, just have to be patient.

I would like the specs to be of a beams blacktop with a standalone ecu. So basically I would love an additional 20 hp in N/A form.
epocsirhc
Lol your beams sounds similar to my Si....

I'd love to know how you smogged your celica with the current setup. Must have a good friend.
njccmd2002
fyi, my beams was coughing and loosing power, slapped a new afm and now is all good, im using 93 octane here, and with the oem pump.... you are too rich.
BonzaiCelica
disappointment discovery over the past couple of days. I went to 76 gas station for A. You can get free gas for life if you fill up with 10 gal or more and use a scratcher to see if you won any prizes. B. Mix 100 octane racing Fuel with 91 octane and I've achieved a very solid 93 octane mixture.

Turns out I'm still running rich!! mad.gif Basically the same readings as when I was using 91 octane. So I'm getting two sides to the story. Batman says I'm fine and you say Im rich??? I thought, that with the 91 octane I was running rich because ecu was retarding timing and sending more fuel into my pistons. uggh what a drag. My next step is to buy the two 1 inch honeycomb filter, taping them together and installing them in front of the MAF Sensor. I'm also going to check pressure at the fuel rail....

Oh Norberto, so you bought a brand new MAF Sensor??
Batman722
you are running a little rich.

Few solutions:
Put the OEM fp back in
Use a stock airbox.

what do you think the A/F should be ?
njccmd2002
i had an extra afm at home. Then i cleaned the old one with carburetor cleaner...

put the oem pump back.... listen to the caped guy!!!

seriously the beams runs well on the oem pump. Ill take a video of mine tomorrow...

Stop measuring the A/F ratio for now.. and start with the pump...

I love driving my BEAMs you should too. Start with the simple things....
BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jul 12, 2011 - 6:03 PM) *
you are running a little rich.

Few solutions:
Put the OEM fp back in. Sounds good to me uhh I think I threw that fuel pump away or it must be in my old celica that got taken to the junkyard. Oh and btw the ST and GT use the same fuel pump right??? I should of tested the old one to make sure it was running at 100% before I bought and installed the walbro pump
Use a stock airbox. Ya you already know I'm in dire need of this.

I just thought the 5SFE/7AFe had a different fuel pump from the Beams motor mad.gif Mehh I should of researched that.

what do you think the A/F should be ?


I got this from an actual tuner place that posts on honda tech:

Back to the original question of what a/f is good for n/a tuning, i have found anywhere in the range of 12.8~14:1 to be sufficient. What i typically do with n/a cars is run them at various target a/f's under wot on the dyno. So from 12:5:1, 13:1, 13.5:1 and 14:1. I measure the torque production from each a/f. I compare each torque curve at the various a/f levels, and see where the engine likes to make peak torque. At resonance points, and different areas in the rpm band the engine typically likes different a/f values. I have been able to pick up 3-5 ft-lbs of torque in various parts of the rpm band by doing this.
Batman722
first thing, I told you on page 1 the US celica pump is the same on the Beams, you even quoted me.

ok, so what do you think your A/F ratio should be (for your Beams more specificaly) ?

do you think the Beams (or any stock motor) is tuned to the highest torque curve for every rpm band ?

If you really think it is, then why the f would most of the beams MR2 guys use safc/neos or simple piggybacks for tuning ?

It's a stock motor, stock tune, it runs rich. Take out the wideband because having a wideband on an n/a motor without any sort of reason to have it (like a piggyback or ems) is useless.
czwalga
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jul 12, 2011 - 10:50 PM) *
first thing, I told you on page 1 the US celica pump is the same on the Beams, you even quoted me.

ok, so what do you think your A/F ratio should be (for your Beams more specificaly) ?

do you think the Beams (or any stock motor) is tuned to the highest torque curve for every rpm band ?

If you really think it is, then why the f would most of the beams MR2 guys use safc/neos or simple piggybacks for tuning ?

It's a stock motor, stock tune, it runs rich. Take out the wideband because having a wideband on an n/a motor without any sort of reason to have it (like a piggyback or ems) is useless.




Pretty much agree. Get it on the dyno if you really want to find out, but I have a feeling its fine you were just expecting more.

You have it backwards, you want to fix the problem and get it on the dyno. Should be the other way get it on the dyno to see if you have a problem. Why guess when you can just find out...

BonzaiCelica
well I mixed a near perfect 94 octane fuel in the car about a week or so ago. Then ordered two of the same diameter, but longer in length honeycomb filters. Stuck them together with duck tape, and put them inside the intake like so:





I thought the low fuel had to be one of the reason to me running rich but actually had nothing to do with after all. I shortly noticed this about 30 min after filling up with the racing fuel frown.gif So I installed the honeycomb filter which happens to stick about 1 cm in front of the AFM Sensor, reset the ecu and went for a drive. Unsatisfying results as my air/fuel ratio was indeed at the same... One thing that did get better was my idle. I no longer have a rough idle and it stayed at a constant 800rpm for at least 2 minutes biggrin.gif

Now onto checking fuel pressure which should be anywhere between 38-44psi and if that fails me, then off to finding an oem fuel pump...
njccmd2002
got a question, what did u do with this sensor...



since u dont have the original oem intake
BonzaiCelica
I'm at a loss for words. But what the hell is that. It must of been stuck to the intake??

Also I need to weld a bung to my intake piping, where can I take it? an exhaust shop??? So I can reconnect the exhaust crank case vent hose.
Batman722
that's a vaccum sensor for the charcoal canister.
the beams only has 2 or 3 vac lines, that's 2 of them. From the TB to the sensor to the canister.
njccmd2002
thats another sensor missing.. then... did you plug those lines or would it cause a leak?
delusionz
that looks more like a vacuum solenoid valve than a sensor to me
delusionz
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Apr 27, 2011 - 12:56 PM) *
no way man beams has 7 more pounds of torque than the 5sfe. I should be able to feel the torque down low. I'm not driving a torque less honda engine!!


7ftlbs is f**k all. you could offset 7ftlbs by what you had for lunch.


QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jul 22, 2011 - 5:45 AM) *
Also I need to weld a bung to my intake piping, where can I take it? an exhaust shop??? So I can reconnect the exhaust crank case vent hose.


you never told us that... with the oil breathers you either have all of them plugged in or none at all, best bet is to run both to a catch can. having the pcv plugged in without the breather will throw AFR's off with a MAF sensor

as with the idler tube, has to be plugged in..
BonzaiCelica
Yes my pcv has always been plugged into the intake manifold.


Well I got quoted $25 to weld the exhaust side breather into the aluminum intake piping. Thought it through and thought wait it will be permanently on their. So I dug through some boxes of extra hardware I had in my garage and got these results:






Air to Fuel Ratio still the same as before I installed the honeycomb filter and fitted the exhaust breather hose. Starting to suspect that its the fuel pump, still have to test the pressure before making assumptions, but as Batman (since he knows way more than I do). Should be obtaining my oem intake sometime within the next 2 weeks biggrin.gif as well as with the idler tube!!

Can someone get me a picture of the idler tube connected on their car please. I ask this because I don't see any extra plugs laying near the throttle body???
Batman722


that's it right there.
It goes from the trottle body to the valve then to the canister.
njccmd2002


but since it interferes with the brake reservoir..


i made a bracket...'

BonzaiCelica
I checked my engine bay the other day and yes I do have that Vaccuum Switch Valve present on my engine. It's attached onto the chassis of the car with a bracket as well.
njccmd2002
why make it so complicated, attach sensor and put oem pump and test the car... You keep talking about the air fuel ratio, i never even close had problems with that.

Stop reinventing the wheel, just do what Dustin tells you and go from there...

all beams are equal, mine is not special, i dont need that honeycomb crap, a/f measurement and ****. you keep wasting your money like that, keep it simple...
TRD-Corolla
you dont need that vsv valve, it's for the charcoal canister, if you remove ur charcoal canister, u can just unplug everything from and to the vsv, plug from the TB as well. That's what I did to mine, and the vsv is just hanging there, i havn't had time to completely remove it yet.

Have you replaced your fuel filter yet? It's a good idea to replace ur fuel filter because when I replaced mine, I learned that the previous owner used a bolt that was too long and restricted fuel flow from the lines.

As for the intake, i was gonna tell you this earlier, but i agree with the guy above my post, you dont need that crap. Here's the secret, it's about maf placement. If u look at bill sherwoods ae86 beams blacktop, he repositioned his maf from his original spot. wink.gif

Lastly, pay the $50 bucks to have a shop dyno ur car! smile.gif They'll tell you everything wrong with ur car forsure!
BonzaiCelica
ya someone else on beams forums mentioned as well that the vsv valve wasn't important at all. The owner said he already replaced the fuel filter. Placement of the MAF??? He had straws right before the MAF Sensor which is the same set up that I have right now.

I rented a Fuel Pressure Gauge. I connected the fuel pressure gauge to the top of the fuel filter along with the banjo line. Put a paper clip in the diagnostic box where the fp and +b terminals are. Turned the ignition to the on position but didnt get a reading on the fuel pressure gauge. What am I doing wrong!! I didnt test to see if there was 12 volts on the battery. That shouldn't really matter right?? I don't have a multi meter by the way.
epocsirhc
How can you expect to diagnose without a dvom? Did you smell gas when you were testing? It might be possible you didn't tighten the banjo down or some aliens are messing with you...
BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (epocsirhc @ Jul 30, 2011 - 1:24 AM) *
How can you expect to diagnose without a dvom? Did you smell gas when you were testing? It might be possible you didn't tighten the banjo down or some aliens are messing with you...


naw I didnt smell gas. I already have local 6gc member helping me out with the fuel pressure issue

oh update more for bragging rights:

I bought my car for only $600!!

Had payment (interest free) plan with my grandma for 5 years. So I paid her a few times, lost my job, then last saturday she told me she would give it to me as a gift since my bro and my cousin got their cars for free as well. In exchange she wants me to figure out my schooling major asap as a return of payment!!! score biggrin.gif
BonzaiCelica
okay so earlier today I went to the exhaust shop and they took out my old (no name brand) broken catalytic converter out and they replaced it with a straight pipe.

I took it out for a test drive right after and now my car is backfiring. I didn't see any flames, I was driving the car with my brother and we both heard the car backfire. I've read that it could be many different variables :

Its running rich (even though no ones knows exact stock beams air/fuel), but an 11 air/fuel ratio isn't that rich?
Ignition Timing??

Mainly just the fact that I removed the catalytic converter right? I get the backfire when I'm rev matching the engine to the transmission.
SwissFerdi
Pardon me if I might be basic, but maybe you're just hearing a new pops and noises associated with the straight pipe, rather than misfiring.
Smaay
if you wanted to turbo your GT, why didnt you come to me? dont you know that i pioneered the turbo 7th gen celica?
BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (SwissFerdi @ Aug 16, 2011 - 9:41 AM) *
Pardon me if I might be basic, but maybe you're just hearing a new pops and noises associated with the straight pipe, rather than misfiring.


well ya that might be it. It didnt happened today as much. I guess its something that comes and goes. Since I couldn't find any topics about it: Today I was braking hard from 95-0 and again from 80-25mph. I started to notice a bit of brake fad right before getting to my house. When I got off from the car I noticed my front rotors were turning blue and the pads were smoking almost as if they were going to start a fire. I am using oem pads (without shims) and blank brembo rotors. Should I be concerned. Do the stock pads really heat up that fast. If so they wouldn't last more than 5 min on a racetrack.
beams78
time to upgrade to better brakes stock wont cut it and if you do plan on taking it to a racetrack you will need better ones believe me you wont want to experience them going out on you its not fun lol
richee3
$600 BEAMS? That's a steal. I'm glad you're getting the power you want out of it now thumbsup.gif
BonzaiCelica
how would I go about centering my maf so that it sits directly center inside the intake housing?? The honeycomb filter in front didn't change the air/fuel ratio at all. I was told its all about placement. The HKS adapter has a 71mm inside diameter but it allows the MAF to sit smack dab in the middle of the intake piping. Current Setup:



BonzaiCelica
hmm don't you just love OEM, I know I do. Got the air filter included for free smile.gif little modification to remove that big resonator box that detonates the noise and makes your oem intake quieter. Will also be putting back on aem air/fuel ratio to see to if I get a better mixture with the oem intake and more power. Oh how I hope!!





njccmd2002
where you score that.
BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 24, 2011 - 1:31 PM) *
where you score that.


the guy sold it back to me for the same price $80

Don't know if you've been following the intake pipe thread on beams forums. But richee already bought the top half of the redtop intake and will be mating it to the bottom portion of his 5sfe box. Vuala complete oem intake. Finally Cold Air intake on my celica haha

edit: what a pain in the butt, my throw out bearing is starting to wear out more and more. I misshifted 5-6 times last night. THen going into 3rd after that is starting to get harder and harder. Going to swap out final drive and lsd from current transmission and put it into the beams s54 transmission that came with the engine. Will have smoother gear changes as well due to low mileage transmission. $250 job that I'll have to swallow in the months to come.. ahhh fuueey.
njccmd2002
well, my beams will be for sale very soon, so it does not matter.
ricochet1490
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 24, 2011 - 9:11 PM) *
well, my beams will be for sale very soon, so it does not matter.


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