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SwissFerdi
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Pipe goes like that is what he's saying, I think?
BonzaiCelica
another thing to note is the design of the hks and fujitsubo header. The left 3 tubes come all the way to the front. If you notice the oem design it is much different. The two right tubes come to the front of the car and are much smoother flowing. Does that have to do with the way that the engine fires each cylinder???? I mean i know two outter cylinders go first and then the two inner ones. Or is it the other way around??

Rusty
You need to look at getting a flexi for your one for starters.

Hard to tell from the angles of the photos, just how good/bad it merges, also doesn't help the example factory pipe has heatshields on. Yours might actaually have a larger diameter pipe, but again hard to tell.


'Which is the best?' All of them but depending on the situation, plus you don't give any info on them.


imo a 4-1 would be good for a racing engine where the powerband is say 5,000rpm onwards. The 4-2-1 is best for us as it will make more power and torque through the entire rev range, rather than just peak power.

now for the paragraph...

paint thumbsup.gif
(notice the left diagram the red and blue lines meet together, but on the right diagram the bottom line has a step/drop to the other line) dont worry about the top blue line on the first diagram I had a wobbly hand laugh.gif

when you have a larger amount of cam overlap (both valves open after TDC) the piston draws from both the intake and exhaust valves and can cause the exhaust pulses to reverse. But as long as they merge as 1 & 4 and then 2 & 3 together, this will help with the exhaust pulses.



It has nothing to do with which cylinder pipe is at the front or at the back, but which 2 cylinder pipes merge together. The factory set of extractors goes 1 & 4 on the right and 2 & 3 on the left. What they (HKS & Fujitsubo) have done, is swap them to the other side so: 1 & 4 now on the left and 2 & 3 now on the right. Giving it a cleaner, tidier look.

It's to do with the firing order (1-3-4-2) why they merge like that


Factory right side: .1......4.....
Factory Left side: ......3......2

so when you get down to the last merge it goes: R...L...R...L...R...L....
ricochet1490
QUOTE (Tigawoods @ Aug 8, 2011 - 9:05 PM) *
obx headers, stock cat, Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator and straight pipes from there on out

http://youtu.be/fvsw5aJpwH0

http://youtu.be/dxiun85DKCE


the audio in the vid is jacked right now.... at least it was for me when I just played it. Heads up.
BonzaiCelica
ughh let this be a lesson to all you 6gc'ers. Don't buy a glasspack resonator at all!!! I installed a 18 inch glasspack resonator on my 2.25 inch exhaust system and today I found out that I need a new one mad.gif I was originally going to go with the magnaflow, but they didn't have any in stock. The glasspack cost me $70 and only lasted me 6 months!!!!! do yourself a favor and just spend the extra $30-40 on the magnaflow 14 inch resonator. just fyi...
BonzaiCelica
with a 4-1 design. Do you guys think It would be better to get an aftermarket/standalone ecu. Would the stock ecu adjust to the new exhaust piping??? Original is 4-2-1 as you all know. I have that higher final drive (or so I believe, I"ll be able to tell once I pull the transmission apart), so torque really isn't an issue....

oh ok now I understand you Rusty....

quote:
"It has nothing to do with which cylinder pipe is at the front or at the back, but which 2 cylinder pipes merge together. The factory set of extractors goes 1 & 4 on the right and 2 & 3 on the left. What they (HKS & Fujitsubo) have done, is swap them to the other side so: 1 & 4 now on the left and 2 & 3 now on the right. Giving it a cleaner, tidier look."
mak5603
Just my 2 cents but I don't think it's worth getting a standalone on an NA car with a relatively stock motor...
Ehrgeiz
I just got a custom exhaust made for my Celica. HKS Hipower muffler.



And a little movie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp489POyShg

7A-FE engine.
BonzaiCelica
cool video. lets see the car do some takeoffs and drive by's so we can really hear what it sounds like on the road.
Ehrgeiz
Well, we made one but it's pretty terrible. tongue.gif

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cb7FCBOdfU...feature=related

I'll try and shoot a better one soon.
BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (Ehrgeiz @ Nov 25, 2011 - 7:46 PM) *
Well, we made one but it's pretty terrible. tongue.gif

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cb7FCBOdfU...feature=related

I'll try and shoot a better one soon.


no problem. do you think you can get a picture of the rear end of the car directly dead center. It seems like your exhaust is angled out really far to the right vs the original HKS Cat-Back ST202 factory made exhaust
Neon90424
I actually fit a flowmaster 40 series with 2 3.5" tips next to the massive 80 liter Gt-four tank...took about 5 hours if you count the downpipe and mid pipe fab aswell...

Ehrgeiz
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Nov 25, 2011 - 11:53 PM) *
QUOTE (Ehrgeiz @ Nov 25, 2011 - 7:46 PM) *
Well, we made one but it's pretty terrible. tongue.gif

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cb7FCBOdfU...feature=related

I'll try and shoot a better one soon.


no problem. do you think you can get a picture of the rear end of the car directly dead center. It seems like your exhaust is angled out really far to the right vs the original HKS Cat-Back ST202 factory made exhaust


Yeah, it's quite angled. But I kinda like it, it's not that extreme. This is the best I could do:

Red123
Thinking about to get an exhaust for my ST205.
What would u recommend to me?
UndecidedPC9397
Hope I can get some help on a couple questions.

Im gonna be running a non boosted 5SFE and see how much NA power I can get. Mainly, im starting with exhaust and intake. with exhaust, it sounds like you should run 2.25 - 2.5. I would like the low end kick but also want good power gain inthe high range as well. which (between the 2.25 and 2.5) is better for something like that? if neither, is there a happy medium between them like 2.38? (yes thats the rounded median, you can call me a nerd lol) and also I want a exhaust note with low rumble and sounds really mean when you hit the gas. My sister's boyfriend has a Contour SVT that has dual magnaflow canisters that sound sinster as hell (not the best example since contours of any kind are not the first things that come to mind when you think of 'sexy sports car' but thats all the exposure in my family that I have to tuning) but what are good mufflers and resonators for that kind of sound and performance? thanks for any responces about this!
kurt95gt
QUOTE (UndecidedPC9397 @ Dec 24, 2011 - 2:27 AM) *
Hope I can get some help on a couple questions.

Im gonna be running a non boosted 5SFE and see how much NA power I can get. Mainly, im starting with exhaust and intake. with exhaust, it sounds like you should run 2.25 - 2.5. I would like the low end kick but also want good power gain inthe high range as well. which (between the 2.25 and 2.5) is better for something like that? if neither, is there a happy medium between them like 2.38? (yes thats the rounded median, you can call me a nerd lol) and also I want a exhaust note with low rumble and sounds really mean when you hit the gas. My sister's boyfriend has a Contour SVT that has dual magnaflow canisters that sound sinster as hell (not the best example since contours of any kind are not the first things that come to mind when you think of 'sexy sports car' but thats all the exposure in my family that I have to tuning) but what are good mufflers and resonators for that kind of sound and performance? thanks for any responces about this!

You'll keep more of your low end with the 2.25
as far as muffler go with the Magna flow slot of.people like the sound
I'm running my 5s with a eBay header an 2.5 with the cat an resonator deleted with a big fart can
Kinda high pitch but I could defiantly feel a difference over stock
But I would leave in eather a high flow cat or a resonator matched to what ever size pipe you run
Good luck hope that helped
UndecidedPC9397
QUOTE (kurt95gt @ Dec 26, 2011 - 11:21 PM) *
QUOTE (UndecidedPC9397 @ Dec 24, 2011 - 2:27 AM) *
Hope I can get some help on a couple questions.

Im gonna be running a non boosted 5SFE and see how much NA power I can get. Mainly, im starting with exhaust and intake. with exhaust, it sounds like you should run 2.25 - 2.5. I would like the low end kick but also want good power gain inthe high range as well. which (between the 2.25 and 2.5) is better for something like that? if neither, is there a happy medium between them like 2.38? (yes thats the rounded median, you can call me a nerd lol) and also I want a exhaust note with low rumble and sounds really mean when you hit the gas. My sister's boyfriend has a Contour SVT that has dual magnaflow canisters that sound sinster as hell (not the best example since contours of any kind are not the first things that come to mind when you think of 'sexy sports car' but thats all the exposure in my family that I have to tuning) but what are good mufflers and resonators for that kind of sound and performance? thanks for any responces about this!

You'll keep more of your low end with the 2.25
as far as muffler go with the Magna flow slot of.people like the sound
I'm running my 5s with a eBay header an 2.5 with the cat an resonator deleted with a big fart can
Kinda high pitch but I could defiantly feel a difference over stock
But I would leave in eather a high flow cat or a resonator matched to what ever size pipe you run
Good luck hope that helped


Okay thank you for the info! and how much low end would I lose if I went with 2.5? and alot of people seem to like the obx evo2 muffler and thats what I have been thinking and put down on my grocery list. any thought on this? and what ebay headers do you recommend? One that seems pretty nice is made by KOSpeed but there are quite a few and im not sure which are rice and which are nice.
kurt95gt
I can remember witch one I got but I cost around 90 bucks an I know there were a few cheaper but there were better ones too I don't think the drop in low end will be that much
If anything I think it helped mine I couldn't leavethe line at the strip without rather burning tires or being way out of my power band
I like my 2.5 island much about what muffler sounds vest sorry
UndecidedPC9397
dont have to apolojize, youve given me info and your best opinion. and how the muffler sounds.... well, isn't that why we are blessed with ears and sound clips on youtube? lol
RabidTRD
QUOTE (UndecidedPC9397 @ Dec 27, 2011 - 10:35 AM) *
dont have to apolojize, youve given me info and your best opinion. and how the muffler sounds.... well, isn't that why we are blessed with ears and sound clips on youtube? lol

Lots of videos have messed up sound because the recording device is **** though lol
UndecidedPC9397
QUOTE (RabidTRD @ Dec 27, 2011 - 7:06 PM) *
QUOTE (UndecidedPC9397 @ Dec 27, 2011 - 10:35 AM) *
dont have to apolojize, youve given me info and your best opinion. and how the muffler sounds.... well, isn't that why we are blessed with ears and sound clips on youtube? lol

Lots of videos have messed up sound because the recording device is **** though lol


Thats a good point. . . well let me re-pharse then:

'well, isnt that why we are blessed with ears and SOME sound clips on youtube?'
UndecidedPC9397
I just contacted an exhaust shop and they said for custom exhaust piping made of aluminized steel they would charge me ~$400. Does this sound about right, and I told them Id supply my own resonator, header, and muffler. And what are some reputable exhaust shops in twin cities area, minnesota beside Full Blown Motorsports (The one I just contacted)
kurt95gt
I don't know what prices around you are normally like but that seems super high to me
Mine was only 150 an I supplied the muffler
I had already put my header on so that dropped it some but still 400 sounds high
mandrek
QUOTE (UndecidedPC9397 @ Dec 30, 2011 - 1:43 PM) *
I just contacted an exhaust shop and they said for custom exhaust piping made of aluminized steel they would charge me ~$400. Does this sound about right, and I told them Id supply my own resonator, header, and muffler. And what are some reputable exhaust shops in twin cities area, minnesota beside Full Blown Motorsports (The one I just contacted)


HAAAAAAAAILLLL NO!!!! $400 for aluminized steel!!!!wtf.. at that point i would try to get some one like Presure2 here on the forums to do the exhaust for a bit more.. he does great work, and i know that he recently was looking onto the possibility of exhaust fabrication for the more popular types of setups.. i don't claim to know his schedule or available time, but he has supported this community allot and "stands by his exhausts" and his commitment to quality is of the best!!! and it would be in SS.. check this out

just saying, if you are providing all the parts (well almost all) and all they have to do is weld it together... $400 is way too much.. pretty much they are charging you$75 an hour and the remaining aluminized steel...
UndecidedPC9397
QUOTE (mandrek @ Dec 30, 2011 - 5:06 PM) *
QUOTE (UndecidedPC9397 @ Dec 30, 2011 - 1:43 PM) *
I just contacted an exhaust shop and they said for custom exhaust piping made of aluminized steel they would charge me ~$400. Does this sound about right, and I told them Id supply my own resonator, header, and muffler. And what are some reputable exhaust shops in twin cities area, minnesota beside Full Blown Motorsports (The one I just contacted)


HAAAAAAAAILLLL NO!!!! $400 for aluminized steel!!!!wtf.. at that point i would try to get some one like Presure2 here on the forums to do the exhaust for a bit more.. he does great work, and i know that he recently was looking onto the possibility of exhaust fabrication for the more popular types of setups.. i don't claim to know his schedule or available time, but he has supported this community allot and "stands by his exhausts" and his commitment to quality is of the best!!! and it would be in SS.. check this out

just saying, if you are providing all the parts (well almost all) and all they have to do is weld it together... $400 is way too much.. pretty much they are charging you$75 an hour and the remaining aluminized steel...


Okay thank you so much for showing me this, youve been alot of help the past few days or so, its been tough around here and really feels like s*** is coming undone over here so im glad people on this forum are so willing to help, it means alot. And I did forget to mention the fact that im thinking of HEADER back, not cat back lol cuz my goals are to get as much horsepower I can to the point where if I wanted anymore, I would HAVE to turbo or swap. Is it a huge difference between header back and cat back performance wise? Again, thanks for all the help!
kurt95gt
Mine was 150 header back i had already put my header on an they did the rest
I'd think anything over 200-250 would be too high
UndecidedPC9397
QUOTE (kurt95gt @ Dec 31, 2011 - 1:17 AM) *
Mine was 150 header back i had already put my header on an they did the rest
I'd think anything over 200-250 would be too high


Oh yours was header back?? WTF? there is one shop thats at thats border line, they said under axle they said would probably be 250 but they said they need to get the car on a lift and look at it and they're a half hour away!! its so bogus, Im kinda hating minnesota alot right now.... Things could be worse but I need a little slack right now... im still just focusing on praying for my car to be okay. but thank you for this information and your willingness to help, I really appreciate it, hope I can do the same someday to repay you guys. what do you think I should do? cuz I have absolutely no idea.... it isnt like I can just go anywhere and get a header back system on some website like ebay.
kurt95gt
Id check all the local shops an see how much it is to get it done
Mine was over axle not under
If you have the spare time and tools changing the header out isnt that hard
If you cant find anywhere cheaper call that shop back an have them look at it
Oh an when i had mine done i had it tucked up close to the bottom of the car since i wasnt sure how much i was going to lower it
So i had it ran tight so it was actually higher than the low spots in the floor boards
Dont know what your full plans but thats something else youvmight want to think about
UndecidedPC9397
QUOTE (kurt95gt @ Dec 31, 2011 - 3:41 AM) *
Id check all the local shops an see how much it is to get it done
Mine was over axle not under
If you have the spare time and tools changing the header out isnt that hard
If you cant find anywhere cheaper call that shop back an have them look at it
Oh an when i had mine done i had it tucked up close to the bottom of the car since i wasnt sure how much i was going to lower it
So i had it ran tight so it was actually higher than the low spots in the floor boards
Dont know what your full plans but thats something else youvmight want to think about


Thinking of lowering at leats 2 inches, maybe 3, and want under axle cuz its less bends and less resistance. why did you go over the axle? and ill look into installing the header myself, what header are you running? thinking of the OBX header they have up for $180 kindasad.gif (it seems the most legit and still have good access to oil filter) Theres just a bunch so just not sure what else to go with.
cyberblader1130
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused kindasad.gif ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. biggrin.gif

Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. mad.gif

Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. tongue.gif
Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can.

Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless.

Hope this helps,

-James-
kurt95gt
QUOTE (cyberblader1130 @ Dec 31, 2011 - 5:36 AM) *
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused kindasad.gif ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. biggrin.gif

Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. mad.gif

Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. tongue.gif
Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can.

Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless.

Hope this helps,

-James-

Sounds like you have bad luck with shops.
The shop I went to did a great job an used Ss tubing
My head cost around 90 an I'm happy with it.
An if your worried about the level of work the shop does talk around an see who most people seem to trust
Oh an I went with over axle because of 2 reasons I wanted my exhaust close to the car an I didn't know it was possible to run under axle at the time lol didn't do my research quote as well as you are
BonzaiCelica
please tell me these guys are out of their minds. They want to charge me $3000 for a custom made Stainless Steel SUS304 exhaust system. haha that won't even be including the resonator and muffler of my choice. frown.gif All this I've been hearing you won't find anything cheaper than $1000 dollars. The $1,000 i heard was for the header and down-pipe alone, from some guys over at the beams redtop forums.... what the helk!!!
cheela
QUOTE (cyberblader1130 @ Dec 31, 2011 - 4:36 AM) *
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused kindasad.gif ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. biggrin.gif

Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. mad.gif

Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. tongue.gif
Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can.

Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless.

Hope this helps,

-James-


looks like I know who to go to for my exhaust. biggrin.gif

what's up with ur car anyway?
Neon90424
****, for 3 grand you can import a blitz nur spec from japan lol
mandrek
QUOTE (cyberblader1130 @ Dec 31, 2011 - 5:36 AM) *
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused kindasad.gif ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. biggrin.gif

Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. mad.gif

Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. tongue.gif
Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can.

Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless.

Hope this helps,

-James-


He speaks the truth though, the BEST way IS to just do it your self.. plot it out, buy the bends, cut the cuts, do all the prep work (and make sure to mark the alignment marks) and then take a weekend to bring it to a friend who has the ability to weld it.. though IMO if you are going to go SS, get it TIG welded. ive charge friends a 24pk of dew and pizza's for the days' worth of work.. for full fab i'll usually charge about 1/4 of the going rate.. that way i get more practice and some $$ in my pocket. if you do the prep im sure you can get it done in the span of a weekend, and not have to go driving off w/o an exhaust..

BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (Neon90424 @ Jan 10, 2012 - 10:55 AM) *
****, for 3 grand you can import a blitz nur spec from japan lol


haha well turns out these guys are top notch. the company I would buy the material from provides exhaust systems for NHRA race cars. So you can imagine why they products are so expensive. the thing is that they don't do the fab work. Some guy 3 garages over does the fabrication.... but still seriously they are out of their minds. I might go to mexico to fab up or just buy the Stainless Steel SUS304 material haha I'm only 2 hours from Tijuana Mexico hehe
kurt95gt
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jan 11, 2012 - 12:00 AM) *
QUOTE (Neon90424 @ Jan 10, 2012 - 10:55 AM) *
****, for 3 grand you can import a blitz nur spec from japan lol


haha well turns out these guys are top notch. the company I would buy the material from provides exhaust systems for NHRA race cars. So you can imagine why they products are so expensive. the thing is that they don't do the fab work. Some guy 3 garages over does the fabrication.... but still seriously they are out of their minds. I might go to mexico to fab up or just buy the Stainless Steel SUS304 material haha I'm only 2 hours from Tijuana Mexico hehe

What ever you do don't drink the water lol
Arsaces
Hey guys, I know it isn't a custom exhaust, but I have the chance to buy a brand new Greddy SP exhaust for $390, does this sound like a decent deal? This is the first I have seen for sale in forever, so it is hard for me to gauge a good price.

EDIT: I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this, hopefully I didn't get ripped off, but from what I can tell the Greddy SP has a nice mellow sound, and I can install it myself. The exhaust I had been planning was going to cost me ~600, so I saved a good bit, and got a brand new exhaust that I haven't seen available for a long time.
cyberblader1130
QUOTE (cheela @ Jan 10, 2012 - 11:37 AM) *
QUOTE (cyberblader1130 @ Dec 31, 2011 - 4:36 AM) *
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused kindasad.gif ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. biggrin.gif

Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. mad.gif

Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. tongue.gif
Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can.

Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless.

Hope this helps,

-James-


looks like I know who to go to for my exhaust. biggrin.gif

what's up with ur car anyway?
I don't have the time or space to do the body work required so i sent it up to GB to have a family friend do it for a discounted rate. Once it gets done i'll finally have the funds from my new job to install a Lightweight flywheel, New OEM clutch straight from Toyota, 2 new A1 Cardone Axles, 2 front wheel bearings(might as well since im in there, my spinout on ice did some dmg.) New brass shift bushings, and the polyurethane engine mounts i bought awhile back.

When ever you want your exhaust done, let me know, I'll do what i can. Im going to try to find some stainless wire for my miller and get a tank of straight argon for it. I can't afford the TIG welder i want but im sure a MIG will do just fine. Otherwise i can weld it with a torch and stainless filler rod. :-D

BTW, I can only work on weekends. I work at Oshkosh Corp and they have me working 45+ hours a week.
eldrewado
wow so much information to absorb
i have a 5sfe 99 gt. im trying to determine whether or not the stock header is be better for cruising or fast takeoffs or is it a middle ground or does it just suck. i want to replace my first cat with a new one possibly hi flow but get rid of the second since the computer doesn't know its there anyway. if i do get an aftermarket header, do they all delete the first cat? im also trying to shed a little weight. im hoping that an aftermarket header will weigh significantly less than the stock cast iron one. any input on that? who has dyno charts to prove gains with their header?
BonzaiCelica
QUOTE (eldrewado @ Apr 12, 2012 - 1:02 AM) *
wow so much information to absorb
i have a 5sfe 99 gt. im trying to determine whether or not the stock header is be better for cruising or fast takeoffs or is it a middle ground or does it just suck. i want to replace my first cat with a new one possibly hi flow but get rid of the second since the computer doesn't know its there anyway. if i do get an aftermarket header, do they all delete the first cat? im also trying to shed a little weight. im hoping that an aftermarket header will weigh significantly less than the stock cast iron one. any input on that? who has dyno charts to prove gains with their header?


the header design thats sold on ebay for the 5sfe isn't the greatest. It abruptly goes from 4 to 1 in a matter of 6-8 inches. It needs to be a gradual design. So not very much hp with that header, but better than oem for sure.

on another note, take a look at this 1996 ITR bpipe setup. Better and smoother flowing than the 3sge beams motor:



vs

Heat shields removed
richee3
Alright, I need everyone's advice. I know literally nothing about aftermarket exhausts in terms of which are the freest flowing, loudest, etc. I've been running the factory 2" GT exhaust with my BEAMS for nearly a year now, with the exhaust reduced right after the B pipe. It's time to upgrade. I'm still deciding between the stock 2.25" exhaust for the BEAMS or going with 2.5". My main focus isn't power, it's volume. I want this to be as quiet as possible. I'm currently looking at a Magnaflow high flow cat and a Vibrant Performance ultra quiet resonator ( http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/inde...=1022_1033_1055 ) with either a Flowmaster 40 series or a Vibrant Performance flat black Streetpower muffler ( http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/inde...=1022_1031_1109 ). Any insight as to which I would be better off with? Once again, my primary goal is as quiet as possible. bloodMoney has advised me to get a second resonator installed if I still want it quieter.
BonzaiCelica
great choice for the vibrant resonator, and any magnaflow or flowmaster oem canister style muffler will be suffice enough. If you decide to fit the high flow catalytic converter it won't be loud. It'd just be a waste of money putting on two resonator.

Well assuming most exhaust shops do crush bent piping. You can get 2.25 inch (oem piping) over the rear subframe.

what do you mean volume??!
richee3
I like my car quiet smile.gif Anything louder than stock is too loud, which is why I kept the GT 2" system in the first place. I believe this is far too restrictive and causing some minor issues with the BEAMS, so I need something larger but I'd like it to be as quiet as possible.

Oh, and my local exhaust shop does mandrel bending smile.gif
jimmykay
Richee, Actually, I have pretty much the exhaust that you're looking at.

ebay 5sfe header, 2.5" pipe, magnaflow hi-flow cat, Vibrant ultra-quiet resonator, and magnaflow muffler.

Its not quiet, louder than stock for sure, but sounds good. However, lately I think I may have torn my flex pipe or something because its gotten relatively loud up front.

I've been thinking about putting my stock header back on in preparation for selling/trading the car so that I could then sell the header and my short ram intake to someone here for cheap.
RabidTRD
I've got a Tanabe Medallion G-Power JASMA header and a 2.25" exhaust that goes into a Vibrant Performance ultra-quiet resonator and Vibrant Performance straight through muffler. Working on getting the down pipe made because the headers angle funny at the flange at the bottom. (They're designed for the 2.0 3S-GE motor originally, but fit perfect on the 5S-FE [btw all the S motors have the same specs for exhaust header mounts] and give added tube length for longer draw and higher performance.)

My co-worker is going to help me re-route it under the axle. Idc about mandrel bent exhaust because the exhaust isn't hitting the inside wall of the pipe... the whole idea of Mandrel bending isn't that special. It's like the idea of intakes making a huge difference. You wont feel a difference. The only thing I can see that mandrel bending is good for is keeping rust away from the folds/nooks in the exhaust. I may still buy a mandrel bent section of pipe though, simply because it looks clean and nice haha. It's going to get painted in ceramic exhaust paint anyway.
richee3
QUOTE (jimmykay @ May 24, 2012 - 10:59 AM) *
Richee, Actually, I have pretty much the exhaust that you're looking at.

ebay 5sfe header, 2.5" pipe, magnaflow hi-flow cat, Vibrant ultra-quiet resonator, and magnaflow muffler.

Its not quiet, louder than stock for sure, but sounds good. However, lately I think I may have torn my flex pipe or something because its gotten relatively loud up front.

I've been thinking about putting my stock header back on in preparation for selling/trading the car so that I could then sell the header and my short ram intake to someone here for cheap.

Hmm... I was hoping to hear a little better than that. I've accepted that my setup will be louder than stock but I'm hoping it will only be marginally louder. I've heard bloodMoney's Flowmaster 40 series and it's pretty quiet, but it's still on stock piping. Why are you selling the car?



QUOTE (RabidTRD @ May 25, 2012 - 12:05 AM) *
[btw all the S motors have the same specs for exhaust header mounts]

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree smile.gif BEAMS headers are not interchangeable with any other engine. They have to be as difficult as possible in every way they can laugh.gif


Would both of you guys say that the Ultra Quiet resonator is a good investment?
BonzaiCelica
yea vibrant or magnaflow 14 inch resonator either or!!!
xxgetbackupxx
So...after reading all of this,I have a7afe and I'm going to buy headers off of Ebay, and go with 2.50 piping magnaflow cat, and possibly dynomax muffler. I'm looking not get become a bumble bee, there are enough of those in fl. Any recommendations on if this would sound good? Looking for a deep tone. Had dynomax before and loved the sound on both corollas I used to have. Also what size cat cause when I look to do buy there are so many different lengths or does it matter how long u need it?
Syaoran
I know it's all subjective but I find dynomax mufflers loud and tinny.

Borlas are deep and loud.

Magnaflow are deep and low, not loud... I love Magnaflow mufflers, especially their stock-looking oval ones.
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