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6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > My Project
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navseal345
WOW! bowdown.gif This makes me look lazy. Did you say you were goin to convert it back to AWD?
enderswift
yes. I plan to convert the e154f to fwd for the 2nd phase of my swap. Later I plan to reinstall the center differential and weld in the rear subframe. My reasoning is that although I can weld, I can't weld well enough to do a quality job quite yet. Plus I still have to buy my own welder and gear. So instead of buying an e153 with a possibly worn out viscous LSD, I'd much rather convert the e154f to fwd with a helical diff. That way I can replace worn bearing and synchros and end up with a really strong LSD trans. I have the fsm on the e154f, it's really not as difficult as one would think.
Smaay
why didnt you upgrade to 1ZZ-FE buckets?
enderswift
shimless buckets would be nice, but the benefit doesn't really justify the cost. Shim under bucket can already rev high with little risk of spitting a shim so the ~25 grams saved per bucket wasn't really worth it to me. I think the money can be better spent on balancing the crankshaft and connecting rods instead.
navseal345
So if this is going to be done by the next Midwest Meet, we will need to see how many people we can cram in your car and YOU WILL take us for a ride. biggrin.gif
enderswift
QUOTE (navseal345 @ Jan 8, 2012 - 7:15 PM) *
So if this is going to be done by the next Midwest Meet, we will need to see how many people we can cram in your car and YOU WILL take us for a ride. biggrin.gif


Sure, but I already know the answer. It's 7 lol. Whether or not we come back alive is another matter haha

QUOTE
I'm digging the picture of the Lotus on the wall. Inspiration!


It's one of my favorite cars, and I like the whole design philosophy of doing a lot with very little.

Quick update:


Current state of cylinder head.




Got some parts in. Rest should be in this week

Stambo
now you making my motor look bad frown.gif
RabidTRD
I absolutely love those plugs. They compliment the 5S's well. smile.gif
kurt95gt
QUOTE (RabidTRD @ Jan 8, 2012 - 9:54 PM) *
I absolutely love those plugs. They compliment the 5S's well. smile.gif

Really?
I have them in my 5s an it seem to run better before them
richee3
Any chance of an update?
Driver
As a fellow 6GC owner living in Chicago wanting to do a swap... How are you going to get around emissions?
enderswift
QUOTE (richee3 @ Mar 9, 2012 - 1:19 PM) *
Any chance of an update?


No real update unfortunately since school keeps me pretty busy. I'm getting a nice fat tax return though, and spring break starts next week. So it wont be much longer before I have the short block finished. at which point I'll post an update that even photobucket will notice. Speaking of buckets, the ones you sent me worked perfectly; so thanks again thumbsup.gif


QUOTE
As a fellow 6GC owner living in Chicago wanting to do a swap... How are you going to get around emissions?


I think your best bet would be to buy a celica that is 1995 or older
Driver
Haha I guess I'm no longer on the fence about going to the meet lol. I really want to know! I want to throw a 2GR in mine sooo bad.
navseal345
You still plan on going AWD after a little while correct? And there is modification required for that, correct? Still cant wait to see this Celica at a Midwest Meet!
enderswift
QUOTE (Driver @ Mar 11, 2012 - 2:01 PM) *
Haha I guess I'm no longer on the fence about going to the meet lol. I really want to know! I want to throw a 2GR in mine sooo bad.


good, these midwest meets need to keep growing. And a 2gr sounds pretty awesome

QUOTE
You still plan on going AWD after a little while correct? And there is modification required for that, correct? Still cant wait to see this Celica at a Midwest Meet!


Sure am. The extent of the modification is limited to constructing custom subframe mounts, since the rear usdm floorpan is different from that of an actual gt4. Its nothing crazy though.

navseal345
Awesome.
richee3
I'm glad the buckets worked out for you smile.gif I can't wait to see this thing fired up!
enderswift
Hello everyone,

Many interesting and time consuming things have been keeping me busy the last few months so unfortunately there hasn't been too much progress on the rebuild. Nevertheless it is now spring break, and I have a little spare cash to burn. So I have been ordering parts and finally tore into the bottom end. Observe:



the Toyota fipg stuff is awesome at sealing and preventing leaks. But damn does it fight you when you're trying to take everything apart



I try to make a habit of threading bolts right back into their respective parts to avoid confusion later, which is the case with this upper oil pan



After a few hours I had my work bench setup for the next round of rebuilding, complete with a new template to keep me organized and a number of parts ready for a round of cleaning.



Its usually a good idea to put cuts of hose on the rod bolts to prevent them from scratching the cylinder walls during removal



Having done that I was happy to see the cylinder walls were in really good condition. No scuffs, scratches, or cracks anywhere thumbsup.gif Maybe this motor wasn't so badly abused after all.



the rod bearings on the other hand show a little wear from what can only be a lot of cold starts. Nothing to be alarmed about though, and there were no signs of oil starvation. I'm assuming these are multi-layer bearings from the way the wear pattern looks



The block looks relatively clean on the inside, which is surprising considering the cylinder head was absolutely filthy.



Thankfully all of the crank journals look in good shape, but I'm still going to get them polished in preparation for a new set of bearings smile.gif

Overall these photos don't depict much progress, but the fact of the matter is that the bottom end is much simpler compared to the cylinder head. Way fewer parts (most of which have convenient stampings), and way fewer surfaces to tolerance. Therefore things should progress at a much quicker pace compared to before (money permitting)

In the coming weeks I plan to get the block hot tanked, crank polished, cylinders honed, and a number of replacement parts in. So a short block should be complete by mid May, at which point I'll be focusing my attention on all of the ancillary assemblies. The ultimate goal being to have a long block complete by mid July.
navseal345
thumbsup.gif thumbsup.gif
cheela
looks good. can't wait to see it finished. smile.gif
bsamps4
I love the wrinkle paint job on that valve cover! Wish you had posted this thread in Forced Induction! You've been hiding!
enderswift
QUOTE
I love the wrinkle paint job on that valve cover! Wish you had posted this thread in Forced Induction! You've been hiding!


thanks bud, I was going for more of an oem look and I'm glad it turned out alright. I really suck at painting haha

small update:




Got some parts in. Oil pump, water pump, belt tensioner, the enormous thermostat, pcv valve, and some other stuff. Its a funny feeling when you spend $400 dollars but the package is really small haha. Money well spent though and I really cant say enough good things about Lithia Toyota, amazing customer service.

All I have left to buy is the bearings and rings. Everything else is ready
navseal345
Hurry up! Lol.
bsamps4
Necesito update sir.
enderswift
QUOTE
Necesito update sir.


Oh believe me, no one wants to see updates to this thing more than I do haha, but the last few weeks at school have been absolute insanity. The only things I've done are limited to a few minor refurbishings that aren't even worth talking about. I'm graduating so there will be many updates when I start working.

oh yea the two idler bearings came in for only $30, so thanks for letting me know about B&D thumbsup.gif
enderswift
Hey guys,

long time no update. Things have been pretty hectic: I've graduated, I've started a career, and I had to see some other projects through. Namely this:

Everything is done now. So expect big updates soon because I finally have a steady income and free time woooo!
thatmr2
can't wait for updates!
dudeofchaos
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jun 27, 2012 - 9:25 PM) *
Hey guys,

long time no update. Things have been pretty hectic: I've graduated, I've started a career, and I had to see some other projects through. Namely this:



Everything is done now. So expect big updates soon because I finally have a steady income and free time woooo!


Are you in the FSAE?
richee3
You have two weeks to get this engine in your car and come to the meet. That is all.
Zake
QUOTE (richee3 @ Jun 29, 2012 - 7:44 PM) *
You have two weeks to get this engine in your car and come to the meet. That is all.


^this
enderswift
QUOTE
Are you in the FSAE?


yes, along with 5 other guys from my school. With such a small team it was a wild ride to get the car done in time for competition. Lots of long nights... so there wasn't much room for the celi unfortunately


QUOTE
You have two weeks to get this engine in your car and come to the meet. That is all.


After what I just went through with the formula car, 2 weeks is a luxurious amount of time haha. The problem is I'm waiting on parts from the UK. . which so far have been taking forever to arrive. So I cant make any promises. Plus I refuse to rush anything, I want to maintain a high level of quality during this build.

please put the ban hammer away haha
enderswift
Hello 6gc,

it's time for a long overdue rebuild update. I've spent the past few days taking care of a lot of the tedious but important aspects of the rebuild, mainly cleaning, logistics, and organizing/cataloging. Nevertheless, there is a bunch to show and I feel that the hard part is almost behind me.

my overall goal was to prepare the bottom end for tolerancing and machining, so the first step was to remove all of the extra bits from the block and clean them up. This included the oil cooler, oil pans, and everything else not associated with the rotating assembly. Heres a photo of the oil pans after cleaning:



These pans were covered in a really stubborn layer of pure crap, so I had to bust out the simple green and wage total war. It wasn't a fun process, but I think the results were well worth the effort.

From there I had to deal with the old silicone sealant. Most people recommend using a razor blade to scrap it off, but I ended up nicking the surface without making much progress. So I decided to try out an 80 grit bristle brush. 3m makes these things and they are apparently fantastic at cleaning aluminum mating surfaces without damage:



And the results:



you really can't ask for a better finish than that. I highly recommend this to anyone working on something similar. To finish things off I put the proper bolts into the pans and secured them with twist ties so installation will be easy in the future.


Next I moved on to preparing a portion of the rotating assembly for storage until I was ready to start tolerancing. This consisted of taking the piston-rod assemblies apart and cleaning each part individually. The first thing to do is to remove the c clips that hold the wrist pin from moving axially. Easier said than done, my first attempts sent the clips flying and it was miracle that I found them. For future reference I suggest doing this with your hands inside of a box, that way the clips will just bounce around the box instead of getting lost. With the clips removed I was expecting a rough time because the factory manual insists on heating everything in a tank before pressing out the wrist pins, but I was able to just push them out with my thumb. I'm not sure if that's because it was a hot day or if I need to replace the rod bushings, I guess I'll find out soon enough.

The pistons were cleaned in a vat of simple green extreme and properly labeled before being placed into a corresponding bag. I'm not taking any chances with mixing these parts up, especially since the piston and wrists come as matched sets!



The connecting rods were just cleaned in regular simple green before being labeled as well. Here's the end result of my work:



By this point the block was almost bare and all I had to do was remove the crankshaft and the pair of pumps. I started with the oil pump and carefully removed one bolt at a time (cleaning each one) and transferring it to a corresponding location on the new pump. I then transferred over the timing gear and installed a new koyo bearing. The same was done for the water pump. I also made sure to keep the old gaskets so it will be easy to match new ones in the future:

Here is the new oil pump with everything moved over:




Having done all of this I was able to finally remove the crankshaft and place it in a tub to soak along with the rear main housing:



A quick soak later and the crankshaft was looking pretty good:



unfortunately all is not well with the crank. After cleaning I noticed that the counterweights around the #4 rod journal had some discoloration:



uh oh. The first thing that came to my mind was that I had an overheated crank. But things just didn't add up.

why is it only on the counterweight and not the journal itself?
why is it only one journal?
why aren't the bearing destroyed?
why isn't the connecting rod discolored too?
why is this happening to me?

Here are more photos to show what I mean:

#4 connecting rod, no discoloration or damage of any kind (I don't know why it came out brown in the photo, its actually cast grey after being cleaned.. I guess htc can only do so much with a phone camera):


#4 rod bearings (also came out brown in the photo). The bearings look like what you'd expect, no pitting or scoring and only light wear through two layers:


There is also discoloration around main #5 right next to the rod journal. After doing some research I found out that certain manufacturers do what's called induction heat treating. It is meant to strengthen certain points of a crankshaft and would explain what I'm seeing. The reason that its only on rod journal 4 and main 5 is because those are the two closest points to the output shaft and clutch, and therefore see the most load (or perhaps they are just furthers from the pump). It would also explain why there's no damage on anything else, not even the bearings, which would go out long before the crank discolored like that. Heres a video of the induction hardening process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52zsbqVgyP4

I'm basing my bearing assessment on a number of sources, but just to illustrate my point here's a website that shows a number of damaged bearings and their cause:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/51...ngs_go_bad.aspx

My bearings don't match any of those and instead look like normal wear from a number of other engines I've seen. So this is a real mystery to me at the moment.

I would really hope that the crank came like this from the factory but the thing is, I feel I would have heard about induction hardening on 3s cranks by now. Maybe this is a late-model 3s feature? If anyone can chime in I would appreciate it. For now I'm going to tolerance the absolute crap out of this crank checking everything from the roundness of the journals to the runout of each main. I'm also going to talk with my machine shop to get their opinion. Right now I feel the crank is fine, but I want to make absolutely sure.

Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. I'm going to hold off on ordering new bearings until I find out what the situation with the crank is. In the mean time I'm going to send the block to my machinist and work on some side stuff
navseal345
I just cant wait for a LSD burnout video.
Smaay
dont be too concerned with the crankshaft. you can have it inspected at a machine shop if you are concerned. you are doing a good build. keep it up
KAOS
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 4, 2012 - 12:49 PM) *
Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. I'm going to hold off on ordering new bearings until I find out what the situation with the crank is. In the mean time I'm going to send the block to my machinist and work on some side stuff


If you want, while I've got my 3S crankshaft out of the engine I can compare counter weights just for notes sake.

LMK

QUOTE (KAOS @ Jul 4, 2012 - 9:55 PM) *
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 4, 2012 - 12:49 PM) *
Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. I'm going to hold off on ordering new bearings until I find out what the situation with the crank is. In the mean time I'm going to send the block to my machinist and work on some side stuff


If you want, while I've got my 3S crankshaft out of the engine I can compare counter weights just for notes sake.

LMK



Oh - and uh, great work on YOUR project too! biggrin.gif
enderswift
KAOS, yes please take a look at your crank for me, it'll be interesting to see if you have the same colors on yours.

QUOTE
I just cant wait for a LSD burnout video.


you and me both!

QUOTE
dont be too concerned with the crankshaft. you can have it inspected at a machine shop if you are concerned. you are doing a good build. keep it up


I cant not be concerned lol. I've invested so much money and effort that I have to be absolutely sure about the parts I'm using, especially something as important as a crank. Thanks for the vote of confidence though, and I'm definitely going to visit my machine shop soon
richee3
Well there's only one thing you can do now.

LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED INTERNALS!!!
bloodMoney
QUOTE (richee3 @ Jul 5, 2012 - 7:21 PM) *
Well there's only one thing you can do now.

LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED INTERNALS!!!


^^^THIS. Most Definitely.
KAOS
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 5, 2012 - 5:37 PM) *
KAOS, yes please take a look at your crank for me, it'll be interesting to see if you have the same colors on yours.


As it turns out - VERY similar... I didn't notice before, thanks for pointing it out.







thumbsup.gif
enderswift
You're the man KAOS! thanks for the pics, it makes me feel confident that these cranks are factory induction hardened at the rear main.

Whew

QUOTE (bloodMoney @ Jul 5, 2012 - 9:28 PM) *
QUOTE (richee3 @ Jul 5, 2012 - 7:21 PM) *
Well there's only one thing you can do now.

LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED INTERNALS!!!


^^^THIS. Most Definitely.


must.... resist... urge... to .. punish bank account laugh.gif
enderswift
hey 6gc,

I have another update to share. A few weeks ago I sat down and tried to get a jump on some of the wiring needed to get this project going. Overall it was fairly straightforward except for the fact that I ran into several different colors of wire at the st204 EA1 plug which weren't consistent with what the gt4 chassis manual was telling me. I checked the '95 usdm diagrams and they matched what was in the gt4 chassis manual, So I started to suspect that post obdII cars are wired slightly different. So I went ahead and ordered the 1999 usdm wiring manual for $20 and went to town as soon as it showed up. Here's just a few photos of the mayhem:


First things first, gotta get organized.



Things get confusing really quick so I wrote down all of the EA1 pin numbers and attacked them one by one. I got all of the circuits matched up and figured out all of the color issues. Pin 12 on the st204 EA1 had me worried because it was taking the spot of one of the wires coming out of the st205 intercooler/fuel pump relay box. Luckily it turned out that the st204 wire was just a ground so there was no problem in replacing it with the relax box wire.


This is a photo I took of my st204 EA1 plug as a reference while matching everything. This way I didn't have to keep running in and out of the house haha


Here's a picture of the mini harness getting tested for continuity. For those of you aspiring to do the swap on your own, don't be intimidated by the wiring, because this is all it is. If you can get your engine with the intercooler/fuel pump relay box you're golden.


This is the partially complete supplemental harness (I still have to finish wrapping it nicely). The wire pointing down plugs into the intercooler pump, the loose wires pointing up are extras that get ground and power. To the right is the EA1 connector. All I have to do now is transfer over the pins from the EA1 connector in this photo to the connector that's in my car, find power for two of those loose wires, and ground for the third one. And that's it for wiring in the engine bay. I still have to extend the actual 3s engine harness by 3 feet and wire up the clutch start switch, but that's going to have to wait for another day. When I get all of that done I plan to finish my wiring write up and post it for those who want to do wiring on their own. More to come soon
Batman722
nice thumbsup.gif
rave2n
Nice! Quite interested to see your in bay wiring.

Didn't get the relay boxes with my set, but once I get it all drawn up, and the relay's sourced, I plan on doing the same. A good writeup, with simple schematics for others to repeat.
richee3
I can't wait for the startup video thumbsup.gif It might be a little soon to ask but what are your plans after the swap? Power goals, specific body bits and pieces, suspension setup, etc.?
Zake
soo, whatcha gonna do with the 5s when it's out of there? wink wink nudge nudge wink.gif
enderswift
hmm I never really put too much thought on what to do with it other than playing with the idea of buying a camry roller for my brother and building him a daily. That's looking like more work than its worth though. Anyway the motor has 106k on it at the moment and it burns oil during highway drives. But I just did the timing belt and compression is within 5 psi on all cylinders. Lets wait until the next meet after im (hopefully) swapped to figure something out
enderswift
quick update,

Got a few parts in:



optioned out Berk downpipe. It's gorgeous

All main, and connecting rod bearings

OEM timing belt

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Arp main studs

Free HKS SSQV III from my buddy

There are still a few things to buy before this engine is ready to go. For instance, I'm looking at having clutchmaster make me a hybrid clutch. I still need piston rings. And I need to send my exhaust manifold and turbine housing to jet hot for ceramic coating. From there the really satisfying portion of this build will begin.
dudeofchaos
^Where did you get the OEM timing belt and all the bearings? Are they found on other Usdm vehicules? Cause I can't get stuff for the 3rd gen 3sgte here kindasad.gif

Edit: found via toyodiy that the bearings are found on the St185 and St165 also, so north american dealers should have em. But can't find the timing belt, and I should start looking for one, have any tips on where to look for?
rave2n
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 21, 2012 - 3:50 PM) *
quick update,

Got a few parts in:



optioned out Berk downpipe. Its gorgeous

All main, and connecting rod bearings

OEM timing belt

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Arp main studs

Free HKS SSQV III from my buddy

There are still a few things to buy before this engine is ready to go. For instance, I'm looking at having clutchmaster make me a hybrid clutch. I still need piston rings. And I need to send my exhaust manifold and turbine housing to jet hot for ceramic coating. From there the really satisfying portion of this build will begin.


Nice haul!

Mind me asking the price of that berk downpipe? Debating if I want to grab one myself.
enderswift
Thanks! I paid $297 shipped. No regrets, it's hands down my favorite part out of all of them. The build quality is great and the customer service was amazing.


QUOTE
^Where did you get the OEM timing belt and all the bearings? Are they found on other Usdm vehicules? Cause I can't get stuff for the 3rd gen 3sgte here

Edit: found via toyodiy that the bearings are found on the St185 and St165 also, so north american dealers should have em. But can't find the timing belt, and I should start looking for one, have any tips on where to look for?


I got most of my OEM parts through lithia toyota: http://www.lithiatoyotaparts.com/partlocat...m?siteid=215542

just type the toyodiy part numbers in and you should find stuff for sale. They are great guys with excellent service as well. The belt was pricey though, I paid $89 usd. It was ~$40 usd a few months ago.... gotta pay to play I guess
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