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I'm ready
nice engine hoist now put it to work lol

nice engine hoist now put it to work lol

Soon. I take delivery next week
I can sense the epicness already
must be a late model 96 or 97, mines 205-0011162
that's a close guess. it's a january 97 production model.

QUOTE (cheela @ Aug 12, 2011 - 11:19 PM) *
I can sense the epicness already

x2 i love these 3sgte progress threads.
thumbsup.gif In curiosity, is that the clip they were selling on Ebay? With the rear diff & everything?

Hey everyone,

today was the big day. I finally took delivery of my st205 front clip. I am beyond happy at the moment as this is the culmination of four years of buying tools, working hard, and saving money. During that time I had to live out my love for cars vicariously through the many awesome 6gc threads and through all the projects my friends took on. But now its my turn smile.gif

Before I go on I want to give credit where its due and tell everyone about my experience with JDMengineworld This shop is based in New York and has been open since February. I was originally nervous about the fact that these guys were so new and their lack of forum feedback. However after buying this clip I have nothing but good things to say. Everyone I spoke with was courteous and professional and more than accommodated my requests. I asked for compression test videos and got them in 45 min. I asked for specific photos numerous times and received them right away; which is saying a lot considering they have to pull the clip off the shelves each time. My calls were always returned, all of my questions were answered, and they put up with my nit picking when other places (osaka) started to get annoyed. These traits made them stand apart from the other importers and were what ultimately motivated me to take the risk and go with an unknown shop. So as far as customer service is concerned, they are top notch. But that's not all, my clip was very well packaged, arrived in 3 days, and was just as they described. It even came with bonus jdm tails thumbsup.gif

So if anyone else is looking to buy stuff, then call them up and ask for Jack.

And now the pictures:

I was standing there just waiting for the clip to fall off haha.

I didn't post any unpacking photos, but everything was stacked and packed with care. Quality stuff

I am absolutely amazed at the condition of this engine, you really cant tell its 13 years old

I love the gt4 bumper, and I cant wait until next summer to get it all painted and installed

The hood needs a little attention from when it was damaged in Japan, but its all small stuff so I'm not worried.

Finally, my project begins...

I'm planning on breaking this project down into phases so as to avoid rushing anything. I want to do this swap properly, and that means taking my time. So between finishing up my engineering degree, and my job, I expect the first phase to take about a year.

Phase 1. Pull motor, rebuild it completely, and swap into my celi with the s54

Phase 2. convert the e154f to fwd with a Quaife ATB LSD, prepare superstrut for for LHD, swap into car

Phase 3. Convert e154f back to awd and weld-in the rest of the drivetrain.

I cant wait.
awesome clip dude that thing looks like its been babied for all its life ill keep that shop in mind when the time comes for me to do a swap on mine out of curiosity how much did this cost anyway?
NICE. The Superstrut Suspension will help reduce torque steer and wheel hop. You'll definitely need it with that massive increase of torque you'll get from the swap. your going to use that heavy transmission that came with the engine!?? I heard that things weighs twice as much as the s54.
NICE. The Superstrut Suspension will help reduce torque steer and wheel hop. You'll definitely need it with that massive increase of torque you'll get from the swap. your going to use that heavy transmission that came with the engine!?? I heard that things weighs twice as much as the s54.

Well, I think the weight difference is made up for by the longer gear ratios and added strength. Plus I want to take on the challenge of converting the transmission. If it works then I'll put together a comprehensive thread detailing the process. If it doesn't work then I really wont lose anything.

Got the clip started!

Spent a good amount of time last night tracing and tagging all of the fuel and brake lines on the clip. Then I spent today taking apart the rear seats to reach the fuel pump. I had to do some investigating with the multimeter, but I eventually identified the power wires and confirmed their polarity. After that I attached fuel hoses to the pump and ran them to the corresponding lines on the clip. Next I wired the fuel pump directly to the battery and fired the beast up. Observe:

It started like a champ, and I was amazed to find no engine codes. The whole point of this was to make sure that all the electronics were functioning. The startup confirmed that, and I was happy. Next step was to run proper compression test on a warmed up engine. So I let it run for 15 minutes before testing out my bonus turbo timer. Long story short I found 164 psi across all cylinders, which is simply perfect.

At this point my buddy asked me why I was even bothering to rebuild the engine at all, and I could see his confusion. My reasoning was that good compression numbers aren't everything; even a leak down wont tell you the whole story. For all I know this engine could be an oil burner that was beat on its whole life. Furthermore its going on 13 years old. I'd rather tear it down and start with a clean slate.

Plus rebuilding is fun thumbsup.gif

so the next order of business is to label EVERYTHING before taking various parts off and cataloging them. I plan to make a very detailed log of all the parts with pictures, notes, and hand drawn diagrams. I also have a million boxes from work just to keep everything labeled and organized. That way I wont get lost when I try to put this thing back together. Organization is key with a project like this.

anyway, tell me what you guys think and stand by for the next update biggrin.gif
You sound super organized.
What do we think?
I think you should swap my car when you're done biggrin.gif
Sexy clip you have there.

Eager to see progress!
looks like you're doing things right thumbsup.gif

nice job !
Wow, that thing really does look babied! Even the body panels are almost mint! I think I know where to go when I want to do my swap after college haha
If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost in total with shipping? You can PM me if you don't feel like posting on here.
Wow, that thing really does look babied! Even the body panels are almost mint! I think I know where to go when I want to do my swap after college haha
If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost in total with shipping? You can PM me if you don't feel like posting on here.

I paid $3500 for the clip and $750 for shipping to Chicago from New York with a quality shipping company. I'm pretty happy with that price point
That is a really good deal man!
did i finally give you some motivation!?
QUOTE (Stambo @ Aug 18, 2011 - 9:02 PM) *
did i finally give you some motivation!?

motivation was always there. Money wasn't haha. Though seeing your gt4 front end in real life definitely strengthened my resolve thumbsup.gif
Hey everyone,

I finally started tearing the clip down after a couple of days of organizing things in my garage, removing bulky parts, prepping rusty parts for storage, and building a catalog.

Its a slow and methodical process because I'm labeling and documenting every single thing I can. I work by singling out a particular system and removing everything associated with it. So in the case of the intake assembly, I took photos of the whole area before taking anything apart. Then I labeled every single hose/sensor/vac on the intake side and engine side. After that I started to take things out, with the ultimate goal of keeping as many parts together as possible before placing them into a box for storage. I also take videos of stuff that goes together in a strange way, or if there is something that would need some explanation to properly document.


I sit down and upload the photos and videos into my swap folder where I have everything organized by system.


I draw diagrams detailing some of the quirks and of the dissasembly, such as which relay box controls which radiator fan etc.

This is slow, but I wouldn't have it any other way. Right now my goal is to remove everything that would get in the way of pulling the motor, and so far I've removed the intake assembly, the radiator assembly, and the entire intercooler loop. Today I want to remove the brake master/booster, and a few other things on the left side of the bay. That should leave me with plenty of room to pull the motor.

anyway, here are some progress photos (because updates suck without at least some kind of picture):

The engine is much roomier now that alot of the bulky stuff is out of the way. My turbo has virtually no shaft play btw biggrin.gif

These are some of the diagrams I'm preparing. I know they're gonna be a big help when it comes to assembly everything.

here are some of the assemblies I've removed so far. I have yet to find boxes for them, but eventually they're going to be boxed, labeled and stacked on one side of the garage. Space is a really precious commodity around here.
whoa finally,

It took a while but I worked my way through the clip and pulled the motor.

WOW superstrut was an absolute pain to take apart. Unlike mcpherson, you cant just disconnect the tie rods and pull the axles through. You actually have to take off the hub. This wouldn't be so bad if it weren't for the upper balljoints. There is no room for a puller because the axle is in the way, so you basically have to wedge a breaker bar against the castle nut and go to town on the strut with a hammer. The combination of the upward pressure from the bar, and strikes from the hammer cause the ball joint to pop out.

In theory.

I went through all kinds of madness before the above method worked. For those doing this in the future, save yourselves some time and go straight for a 4lb hammer or bigger, don't waste time with a dinky little hammer like i did.

anyway, once the axles were out the engine was ready to be pulled. I decided to go avoid risking damage to the engine and simply cut the front of the clip off. This way I could just slide the motor right out. It went well and everything came out unscathed. The only downside to this is that I didn't get the experience of removing the engine from an intact bay, but i guess i wouldn't want to try that without a load level anyway.

Right now the engine is sitting on a pallet in my garage. I'm waiting until next Saturday to separate the trans and mount the motor on its stand. From there its going to be a slow methodical rebuild until spring. I'll try to put together a decent tear down thread for those looking for a step by step but I cant promise anything. I'm taking 19 credit hours of engineering so I'll be really strapped for time. All I know is that its surreal to actually be doing the swap that I've been reading about for four years now, its just a ton of fun. Anyway, here are some pictures:

Looks like you're making good progress Luke! Keep it up.
Removing that transmission is fun.

snack sized ziploc bags and a retractable sharpie are very helpful to collect nuts/bolts/screws.

I was hoping to see this car boosted before the meet. But there's always next year! Sounds like you're doing this swap right. Keep us posted. I expect this thread to scare 56k members away.
Hey 6gc,

its been a while but there has been a lot of progress. I separated the transmission and placed it on its own pallet in the corner till the time comes for it to be converted to fwd. I also mounted the engine on its stand and continued labeling, photographing, and storing. As of right now the engine only has the turbo assembly and power steering pump on it. But unfortunately I'm not going to continue the disassembly for a little while since I have to turn my attention to the rest of the clip. I still need to pull out the superstrut, dash, and shifter cables. As soon as that happens I'm either going to chop up the frame or give it to my buddy so he can turn it into a giant grill ( I didn't ask for specifics haha).

if anyone wants to buy a rhd dash and firewall let me know!

anyway, here are some more current photos:

Here is my super heavy bench weight. It was tough to get this thing off of the block on my own but I managed in the end. Did anyone else forget that one hidden bolt behind the center housing?

My flywheel speaks volumes about how this car was treated in the past (bad). You can't tell in the photo, but there are blue spots all over this thing from what I can only assume to be massive clutch dumps. Things like this only reinforce my decision to rebuild this engine.

I finally got the harness off of the engine. I've been debating on whether or not I should put together a thread with a picture and description of each plug. I think it would be helpful to those who buy an engine set instead of a clip. Let me know if you guys would want something like that.

The flywheel isn't the only part telling stories. This is one filthy manifold.

I cant even imagine whats waiting for me under the valve cover, but if its anything like what I can see through the oil fill, then I have a lot of work ahead of me.

Intake valves look good though thumbsup.gif

This is a photo of the engine at the moment. I got stuck taking off the manifold and turbo and I have to think of a clever order. This thing is like a puzzle. You guys would not believe how heavily built (and braced) the stock downpipe is. I wouldn't be surprised if I saved 20 lbs by switching to an aftermarket pipe.

and heres a picture of my cramped working conditions. Its even tighter when I have the kawi in the garage O.O

The parts boxes just keep multiplying.
QUOTE (enderswift @ Sep 13, 2011 - 11:31 PM) *
You guys would not believe how heavily built (and braced) the stock downpipe is. I wouldn't be surprised if I saved 20 lbs by switching to an aftermarket pipe.

I think it's a catalytic converter. Not only weight savings, also better flow!
Are you going to be doing anything with that steering wheel Luke? If its in good shape, I could use a replacement....
I was looking to pull the whole dash and sell it for parts. So its for sale if you want it. Its leather wrapped and in good shape.
well, got some more work done today. The superstrut is completely out and on the pallet. I was surprised at how easy it was to drop everything, just a few bolts and the subframe lowered without problems. I took the time to measure the lock to lock rack travel and found it to be 4.75 inches. This means all I have to do to swap over to superstrut is find a set of rims with the right offset. thumbsup.gif

I'm not going to make it that easy on myself though, I have access to a sand blaster at school so I plan to strip all of the factory paint and coat everything with a layer of por 15. should be fun.

Aside from pulling the superstrut, I also took off the valve cover to see how bad sludge is.

here are the photos:

I need to transfer over my st204 steering rack and this guy will be ready to bolt in.

couple hundred pounds of gt4 goodness right there. Gotta love it.

This is a terrible photo if you're talking about sludge, but I thought it looked cool. Anyway it looks like this engine wasn't maintained too regularly. Its not the worst I've seen, but I'm sure they stretched the oil change intervals. Another reason to rebuild this motor

So this was the last thing I had to remove from my clip. I am officially done with that part of this project and can now focus on actually rebuilding the engine smile.gif I plan to do the rebuild in two steps to keep myself from getting overwhelmed with scattered parts. Step one is going to consist of a complete rebuild of the head where I will do all of the measuring to decide what machining is required. I don't trust shops to tell me what is out of tolerance. Step two will see the bottom end rebuilt with oem bits and some arp goodness.

It's coming along great, Luke! My only question is why convert the E154F to FWD when you could get a lighter E153 or even recycle your S54? I'm sure you stated your reason why earlier in the thread but I missed it.
QUOTE (richee3 @ Sep 18, 2011 - 11:19 AM) *
It's coming along great, Luke! My only question is why convert the E154F to FWD when you could get a lighter E153 or even recycle your S54? I'm sure you stated your reason why earlier in the thread but I missed it.

Just from seeing the pictures and whatnot, I believe he's using the E154F because he can use the GT4 axles since he will be swapping the whole subframe out. The S54 is probably too short, gearing wise, for what he wants to do, and with the E153, he has to mix and match the axles with the mr2 and st185. It also seems like he would save some money in the end, but that's how I see it
You're both close.

By removing the center section of the e154f I'm effectively turning it into an e153, only with gt4 specific gear ratios and triple cone synchros on 2nd and 3rd. The weight difference between an actual e153 would be minimal. I don't want to stick with the s54 because it has shorter ratios and an open diff. Furthermore it would be just as much work trying to upgrade the s54 as it would be to convert the e154f. I know I could buy a used transmission that has a factory LSD, but I really do not like viscous differentials. Helical all the way thumbsup.gif

Besides converting the e154 isn't some impossible feat. It's alot of work, requiring a press and some specialty tools, but not difficult. Like everything organization is key. A basic rundown of the process involves removing the center section and covering the opening with the plate from an e153 (get the mount too). Then pull the transmission apart to replace the differential with either an mr2 viscous or an aftermarket like the quaife I want (might as well replace any worn synchros and bearings too).The reason for replacing the diff comes from the fact that the current diff is splined to accept the shaft from the center housing, not an axle.

Axles are going to be a pain no matter what route I take. GT4 axles are equal length so removing the center housing from the e154f means the passanger side axle needs to be longer.And I still need to find out whether or not gt4 axles are splined properly to fit into the quaife lsd. If not, I'm going to have to get creative.

I think I can make a working axle by using the transmission side housings from an mr2 turbo and keep the wheelside housings from the gt4 (since those fit the superstrut hubs). Then the challenge would be to find a halfshaft that is the correct length and of the correct spline to accept the corresponding inner race's. Worst case scenerio I'll have to get custom halfshafts made. I'm confident I'll find a solution
Hey 6gc,

long time no update. I've been busy with school and that means no time to work on the 3s, or make money for that matter. I expect things to pick up during winter break though. Till then I'm gonna have to be happy with slowly taking the motor apart and taking care of the tedious parts of this project.

anyway, current plans for the head involve a complete disassembly and tolerancing. I plan to check all of the specs and determine exactly what kind machining is required, and what parts have to be replaced. I plan to get the following done regardless of the condition of the head:

-ultrasonic cleaning (hopefully someplace local offers it)
-3 angle valve job
-head deck

Then, depending on the condition of the head I may also pay for this stuff:

-Valve guide replacement
-Misc parts replacement

If theres one place to be OCD in a rebuild its in the head. Here are some photos

I spent a lot of time thinking about how I'm going to keep everything safe and organized while I gather the funds for the master rebuild set and machine shop. I eventually came up with what you see here, its not complete haha. I promise its more elaborate than this smile.gif

I had a hard time with the belt tensioner since the fsm wasn't too clear on how to position the #1 idler pulley. They tell you to torque the pulley bolt to 61ft/lbs and to position the pulley in order to slip a 3 mm allen into the head. Thereby removing slack from the belt... not too detailed imo. I would appreciate it if someone could explain the proper procedure. I eventually ended up bracing the pulley with rubber before cutting the timing belt. It prevented the tensioner from extending violently at least.

I also had some trouble removing the camshafts. The caps near the timing belt pulleys wouldn't separate from the head as I was loosening their fasteners. This resulted in the camshafts going crooked during removal. A few strikes with a rubber mallet freed them up, but I wish I caught that sooner. I don't think I damaged the head but its just annoying when you're taking care to do everything the right way.

I was planning on taking the valves out right away, but my valve spring compressor doesn't go deep enough into the head. I'm going to have to borrow one from one of my buddies in the sae.

I was surprised to see that the cylinders and pistons are all in great shape. You can still see the factory crosshatch on the walls thumbsup.gif

Well thats it for this week. Hopefully next week will see me removing and measuring the valvetrain. After that I'll be checking out some of the shops people have been recommending to me. Stay tuned.
what do you mean I need to transfer over my st204 steering rack and this guy will be ready to bolt in. Rack and Pinion from all 94-99 celica's regardless of the model are the same.... only difference is the tie rods from superstrut models.
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Oct 15, 2011 - 2:04 AM) *
what do you mean I need to transfer over my st204 steering rack and this guy will be ready to bolt in. Rack and Pinion from all 94-99 celica's regardless of the model are the same.... only difference is the tie rods from superstrut models.

You're forgetting that this clip was rhd while my celi is lhd, so I have to swap over the steering rack. There was a thread debating on whether or not the st204 steering rack can be used with the superstrut suspension. Some were saying that st204 steering racks had a larger lateral travel than the st205 steering rack, and that this would over extend several of the parts on superstrut at full lock.

I went and measured the travel of both racks and it came out to be ~4.75 inches. Therefore I can just bolt the st204 steering rack from my gt onto the st205 subframe without worrying about hurting the superstrut during full lock turns. The only thing I'll have to worry about is replacing the tie rods with the bowed out st205 parts. Also, the reason I'm using the st205 subframe is because it has no rust compared to my gt subframe.
Hey 6gc,

I've made some good progress today thumbsup.gif Nothing major, but every little bit gets me THAT much closer to slamming into a median at 17 psi. The majority of the work was in head disassembly, which I'm thankful to have finally finished. I had a tough time sourcing a proper valve spring compressor, and actually spent the last two weeks researching all the different styles. I tried buying one at specialty stores, modifying one from work, and borrowing some kits from friends. Unfortunately every time I found a compressor or adapter it was always just short of what I needed. I considered buying online but the shipping would have taken too long and this saturday would have been wasted. So, I made my own. Its a very crude, very primitive chunk of steel. I'm almost embarrassed to show it since my welding skills are still pretty inadequate, But hey it did the job beautifully and allowed me to move forward. Its basically a 17 mm socket with a portion of the wall cut out, and some handles welded on one end. I would compress the retainers while my brother removed the keepers with one of those awesome extendable magnets. Although my custom tools worked, I will be using this in the future biggrin.gif

Dont judge me haha

With the head apart I was able to move towards cleaning everything in preparation for tolerancing. As with the valve spring compressor, I also spent a lot of time looking for the perfect degreaser to use. Its important to make a good selection because aluminum is a finicky material. You can easily lose a few thousandths of an inch if you let a machined surface oxidize. Therefore I avoided all of the common degreasers and asked around for recommendations. One of my sae buddies pointed me in the direction of simplegreen extreme motorsports. This stuff is safe on aluminum and is amazing at dissolving engine crud. Observe:



Still have a ways to go but quite an improvement if you ask me. Basically I sprayed the head with the simple green and went to town with a tooth brush to work the stuff into the dirt. Thankfully my brother was a willing assistant otherwise I'd still be brushing haha. Anyway, after the toothbrush session I hit the aluminum with a pressure washer. This process was repeated a number of times and the head just kept turning out better and better. Unfortunately I cant reach all of tight spaces so I plan to buy a few gallons of the simple green and simply soak it until next Saturday haha. The pressure washer should be able to take care of the rest by then biggrin.gif

During this whole process I made sure to keep things organized and put my cardboard template to use

The cardboard has a fixed orientation printed on it so its easy to keep track of the seemingly endless amount of tiny parts that compose the valvetrain. All I have to do is match a zip lock bag to the cardboard and I know exactly where those parts belong.

Anyway, thats it for this week. Next week I'm going to continue cleaning and plan to start measuring stuff. Stay tuned
Very detailed and well thought-out process to dealing with the head Luke. Even though you find it crude the tool you made works and works well so that's something to be quite proud of. thumbsup.gif

Also, I couldn't help but laugh at this:

Nothing major, but every little bit gets me THAT much closer to slamming into a median at 17 psi.

I know you're joking but I truly hope this never happens.
Good luck on the project. Seems like you know what you're doing!
looks good luke!
Hey everyone,

long time no update, but I've been busy with work and school so there's been little time to focus on the rebuild. Luckily the semester is out for winter break and I've had the chance to get some stuff done. As I've mentioned before I am focusing on the cylinder head until it is completely done before moving on to the bottom end. So with that in mind I've been busy cleaning, measuring, and ordering parts:

A quick before picture:

My first round of cleaning involved scrubbing the cylinder head with a tooth brush and simple green extreme before rinsing with a pressure washer

The real stubborn stuff required a brass brush and more simple green (brass doesn't scratch aluminum but is much more effective than tooth brush bristles).
This was an extremely tedious process but I'm really happy with the results.

I obviously couldn't reach everything with brushes and a power washer, so I went to Grainger supply and picked up 3 gallons of Simple green Boeing Cleaner and soaked the head. I was AMAZED at how awesome that stuff is. The hidden crud in the oil channels exploded off the head right before my eyes. In retrospect I probably could have just soaked the head from the beginning and avoided all that scrubbing. But oh well

I also took the time to clean and spray the valve cover in VHT wrinkle paint. Painting with this stuff is no easy task since the slightest change in temperature will cause it to wrinkle in patches. I took a lot of time cleaning, sanding, and painting to avoid that problem. I think it came out pretty well.

Next step was to start measuring in preparation for machining.

Measuring turned out to be much harder than I expected simply because Toyota maintains specifications in the ten-thousandths range. This meant that I had to borrow a micrometer accurate to 4 significant figures and check all of my values. It was very time consuming.

Everything was within tolerance but the exhaust valve stems were only 2 ten-thousandths away from being worn out. This concerned me so I measured the center of the valve stems (which doesn't wear) and saw that the valves were on the small end of tolerance when brand new. Confused, I measured the valve guides with a bore gauge. The difference between the bore diameter and the valve stem gives you the oil clearance spec. In my case I was comfortably in the tight end for all the valves. So even though the valve stems are small the oil clearance is good, which is ultimately the important measurement.

I also went on to measure absolutely everything the FSM called for and thankfully the cylinder head is in fantastic shape; despite the lack of oil changes. In light of this information I've decided to get the following machining done:

head resurfacing
: The head is not warped, but metal head gaskets experience shearing forces due to the difference in thermal expansion rates that comes with having a cast iron block and an aluminum head. Therefore a smooth surface is required to avoid failure.

Cam shaft polishing: There are some directional scratches on the cam journals which probably occurred during cold starts. They pass the fingernail test but any little scratch can disrupt the extremely thin oil film that separates the camshaft and the head. Therefore since I cant polish the head journals, I'm going to have a shop polish the cams with Emory cloth instead. This should increase the longevity of the head without affecting the oil clearance.

3 angle valve cut I spent a TON of time checking the valve seating and the exhaust valves have a little bit of pitting in them. I could just lap the exhaust valves by hand but I figured I might as well go big and get a 3 angle done on exhaust and a refresh on the intake. Go big or go home. The downside is that I'll have to replace all of the shims or shorten the valves since cutting makes them sit deeper in the head.

Finally I found one lifter that is going to need replacing, I think something went wrong during case hardening because it looks like the carbon diffused unevenly around the sides. Fortunately the lifter bore was unaffected by this so I can get away with just replacing the lifter.... for ~$20

Currently I'm in the process of selling extra stuff from the clip and saving money to buy the master rebuild kit, and pay for machining. The Toyota dealer near me is active with the Toyota scene so they gave me discounts on a lot of my rebuild parts. Its pretty awesome, but unfortunately a bunch of stuff has been discontinued and I'm gonna have to dig around to buy stuff like the oil and coolant pumps.

anyway, here's my humble progress thus far. I wish I had some more interesting stuff to post, but I want to take my time and be thorough with this.
Wow... That's thorough. I used Simple Green to clean my engine bag last week. Totally worth the money!
i can't wait till spring!

Do you think some of us will make it to another level car show in late july? I went last year and was the only celica there except for 2 1st gens.
QUOTE (Stambo @ Dec 29, 2011 - 8:35 PM) *
i can't wait till spring!

Do you think some of us will make it to another level car show in late july? I went last year and was the only celica there except for 2 1st gens.

I'd be down for a car show. Not sure if the swap will be done by then though
Hello everyone,

I decided to refurbish the fuel rail and fuel injectors last night and figured I'd post the results:

First the fuel rail was disassembled and all the components were cleaned in a variety of simple green products. In my opinion one of the more satisfying aspects of this rebuild is making something look new again. That was definitely the case here, I wish I had taken a before shot to show the contrast..

Next all of the hoses were replaced with fuel injection and vac lines.

Finally I turned my attention to the fuel injectors. Normally you would just send them out to get cleaned but I was inspired to try cleaning them on my own after watching a youtube video showing a way to cycle them with carb cleaner and a battery. In my case I had to be careful because the st205 uses low impedance injectors, which means a large current will cause damage to their solenoids. In fact the gt4 harness has a resistor pack built in to step down the voltage to avoid exactly this problem. Unfortunately there was no way for me to tell what voltage these injectors actually operate at since my resistor pack was not labeled. Therefore I had to start small and wire AA batteries in parallel until i got a response from the injectors. Eventually I switched over to a single D cell battery and got the injectors to actuate. From there it was a matter of connecting the injectors to a can of carb cleaner and cycling them until I was certain they were clean. I had to flow the cleaner backwards since these are side-feed injectors and my options to connect them were limited; still I should get the benefit of flushed screens that way. I recorded a small video demonstrating the process. Its crude, but effective.

I still need to purchase new injector o-rings and perhaps a new fpr before the fuel rail is complete. But that's gonna have to wait until some more funds come in. Anyway, next week I should have the cylinder head completely finished at which point I'll be taking the block apart.
nice video man! I'll have to try that sometime when i have my intake manifold off.
Quick update:

cylinder head has returned from the machine shop and I put it together for a final check of the journal tolerances and the valve lash:

All ready for one last round of measuring

Head was decked

Camshafts were polished, including the tips of the cam lobes.

This is only a mock up assembly since I still need to install a set of new valve seals and a new lifter. When they arrive it'll just be a 20 min affair to pop them in. I just came back from Toyota and purchased a new cap and rotor and my rebuild kit is on the way. I also ordered a set of Denso plugs and wires from work and they should be there in 2 weeks. All told I spent a lot of money today. But I'm not done. Next I'm gonna order so ARP headstuds. Broke again woooo! Well I think its safe to say that the cylinder head rebuild is nearly complete. Soon it's gonna be all about the bottom end for the next few months
Lots of nice work!
I'm digging the picture of the Lotus on the wall. Inspiration!
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