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6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > My Project
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rave2n
QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 1, 2016 - 7:26 PM) *
in your first picture with the white arrows, that is the fuel return line. It connects to the end of the fuel rail on that nipple you point to with the white arrow. I recently had that line leaking fuel so I had to replace it. You might want to get a new hose while you've got things apart to avoid smelling gas. your red arrows image sounds correct. I think you want this hose to go to P or E on the throttle body providing vacuum when the throttle is open but no vacuum at idle. on the last picture those look like vacuum hoses but without seeing where the other end goes, I can't tell.


On that fuel return line, I assume that goes back to the tank? I thought it would be connected to charcoal canister? Or does the line above it, the right right arrow do the canister to tank run?

I think it does, but I'm trying to mesh together how all these goes looking at 50x diagrams, and it seems most have just deleted this. Seeing I already have, I figured I'd hook it up =P

On that last picture, those small hoses connect to a hardline that ends up to another soft line on the intake manifold.

Did find my MAP sensor, so that will cover one of the inlets on the intake, and VSV which did relieve some confusion. Appears one end of the VSV goes to the intake, the other to the W2A exchanger.

Appreciate all the help!

The most pictures I could find on it, where on Pressure2's build, but he removed his canister, but it did help me figure out other lines lol.

I may have some of it figured out. Go go part numbers...

77277A - Fuel Return Tube - Indicates the return to the middle hardline

77261E - Tank to Canister - Indicates the left most line facing forward of vehicle.


----

Well just went to it, and got more done...I think I have it all right now...Had to go pick up a small line and bridge to replace what seems to be gone. Luckily they had it available =) Just the line that comes from the charcoal to those nipples on top labeled P & E



Confirmed I got the right fuel return to hardline hooked up, found my VSV, and turns out I have 2 MAP sensors.

I didn't realize it was still attached to the harness this whole time. First thing I did when I got the engine was remove the harness expecting to ship it off. Didn't work out. It would appear the bracket and the top piece of it with part number were torn off but the sensor and line itself were intake and connected to the manifold, I just removed the connection. So, I have a spare now =)

Looks dirty as hell, but meh, at least things are finally lining up.

I expect to do wiring tomorrow. Unpin, repin, fight if I want to extend just a few wires or get creative...

Oh anyone know why the coil pack is hitting the hardline on the master? I swear I have the right mounting place...
antoine64
I'm glad to hear your figuring it out. lots of hoses that need to be hooked up just right to make it work. I had fits sorting out my hoses. Still not sure if everything is right.

here's a picture of my engine. I feel like the previous owner was smok'n crack when they put the engine in but I've been sorting things out. My ignition module points out instead of to the side like yours. I don't know if that's your problem or not. the vacuum line over the top of my intake manifold plugs into the top of the charcoal canister. Mine is the older canister in your picture not the fancy one that came with your engine. they probably work similar though. the two large black hoses draped over my turbo piping go to the air intake tube. one is for the breather and the other is for the idle air and stock turbo vsv air.

rave2n
QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 2, 2016 - 5:30 PM) *
I'm glad to hear your figuring it out. lots of hoses that need to be hooked up just right to make it work. I had fits sorting out my hoses. Still not sure if everything is right.

here's a picture of my engine. I feel like the previous owner was smok'n crack when they put the engine in but I've been sorting things out. My ignition module points out instead of to the side like yours. I don't know if that's your problem or not. the vacuum line over the top of my intake manifold plugs into the top of the charcoal canister. Mine is the older canister in your picture not the fancy one that came with your engine. they probably work similar though. the two large black hoses draped over my turbo piping go to the air intake tube. one is for the breather and the other is for the idle air and stock turbo vsv air.


Lol, yours looks pretty damn clean man!

I got a ton of clean up to do, a lot of it looks like hell right now, but its really me mocking it all up and getting everything in order since it sat for 2 years. In all reality, it will be pulled again in a year, harness will be cleaned up and re-wrapped, and I expect to either get a e153, or find a LSD scenario for the S54 since I recently had it rebuilt. So right now, I just want it running. I can nitpick items down the road. Having 2 vehicles helps =)

------------------------

Working on the wiring today.

Doing the 6 wires on the EA1. Ran into a slight issue, as I do not have the body harness itself, been trying to source it forever, but never could find it, so it looks like I'm going to have to get some pickup wire and wire these few in themselves. Thankfully, they cut the wires with a good 6 inches on them, leaving me enough space to work with them. Finding OEM connectors should be interesting for all these items...kinda hoping they are still on the items, but I doubt it. They were hard enough to even get shipped in the first place...a year of fighting to get that damn W2A pump.

Need to get the diagrams out and make sure I'm doing this right. I think its just FP, coil, and W2A runs. Re-pinning should be easy enough, done that a million times, but I'm short a pin for the internal clutch start because my 5S harness went with the 5S when sold. No big deal on that though, that portion won't get behind the firewall until next weekend, so I may be able to remedy that.
rave2n
Well, figured out my wiring issues...quite a bit more simple than I expected once I really started to focus on it.

Time to make a harness for this relay box. Got lucky, because all the wires match from the 3s EA1 plug. So all I should need to do is repin from the 3s plug into the 5s plug and call it a day. So one end is made, solder in the rest another time, then carry the pins over.

Supplies


Don't forget to tin that wire wink.gif


I think she'll hold...


Right or not at all?


Almost done


Finished product


So I should stop begging for help now. I literally sat down for 3 hours today and went over all the stuff I used to know, and refreshed myself. Once again 6gc saves the day. I followed pressure's build til I needed to pull out diagrams on the wiring since mine is a little different.

Starting to get excited, its not far from running. I do still have to do the ECU side of the harness, but I'm thinking I'm getting creative with that. I still have enough room to cut a hole and go that route into the center.
enderswift
good job. People always assume wiring is harder than it really is
antoine64
Nice wire connecting! That's what I do: Solder and shrink tubing. Sometimes I'll add a little liquid electrical tape to seal it up good. It's a shame you didn't use the same wire colors but you just need to mark them so you know which is which. I suggest a label maker or to solder a small several inch stub of the original wire to the end so that end-to end is the same color.
rave2n
QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 3, 2016 - 10:07 PM) *
Nice wire connecting! That's what I do: Solder and shrink tubing. Sometimes I'll add a little liquid electrical tape to seal it up good. It's a shame you didn't use the same wire colors but you just need to mark them so you know which is which. I suggest a label maker or to solder a small several inch stub of the original wire to the end so that end-to end is the same color.


Where I'm soldering to is the default color wink.gif after that I just move the pins. I have leads at the end of the ea1 socket for the 3s box, so these are just jumpers per say. Can always continuity test a line. I left the original colors at my solder joints just electrical wrapped for easy access to lines. =)
rave2n
Wiring part 2!

My 5s EA1 plug was solid in the empty pin holes. I tried to drill it out, but doing so messed up the socket and the pins wouldn't sit right, and/or damage them when connected.

So I swapped my 3s plug over to the 5s body harness. Repinning is fairly easy, I just used a tiny flat head to release the pins after removing the white guard inside of the connector.



Splicing in the IC and FP relay box. Just matching all the wires from the 3s plug. Got a little to eager and didn't let the joint cool down before I moved the heatshrink over, and it shrunk before I could get it over..but..only you guys will see that wink.gif



Now connecting the 3 left over lines to the body harness directly due to no pin location.



Almost there for the relay box side of things. Harness just needs wrapping



And wrap it up. Mount obviously when rad is installed.



Still need to figure out where those last 4 wires go. Fairly certain they go directly to the IC and FP or something or other. I just have to look it up.

I did run into a snag when dealing with the 3 left over wires they are typically spliced in.

2 of the 3 made sense, and went directly with Bsamps guide, but I had 1 left over that wasn't on the 6 outer pins. In his guide was white/black stripe. Mine was black/white stripe, but also the only wire left. I checked the schematic and it does appear to be a relay leg to another leg, so I spliced that one in just like his white/black one. If anything, its just the IC relay, so if that doesn't work, I know where the problem is lol.

So several more wires to figure out and should be smooth sailing from here.

Edit:

And looking at my own pictures...I splice in the black\white w grey dots to a white\black, when coming out the plug itself is the black\white w grey dots. Now I have to figure out what all that is, cause I think its wrong the way I have it.
rave2n
Okay yea I messed that 1 line up...



Thats the line I took, and spliced into this....



So gunna need to figure this one out..
rave2n
Pretty positive I have the wiring right now. I did mess up and had to go back and fix 1 line, and create the connections for the IC water pump.



New lines for the IC pump, and fixing the black/white white/black wire that I messed up. It comes from the pump itself instead of directly from the relay box. Go Go schematics.



I do not have the connector for the IC pump itself, so I'm going to cut is back, and use butt splice to put it in place. Each line to be weather resistant labeled.



Final off the 2 harnesses I needed to make. Technically it should just be 1 with a pigtail, but I forgot about that and just made it longer coming from the EA1 instead of running it up the loom. I'll ziptie the 2 together once I figure placement.



All buttoned up



Now there were 2 lines that concerned me.

1 was pin 13 on EA1 Green - Looked it up and it turned out to be for ABS, since I do not have such, I just tied if off.

The 2nd line that bothered me is one going to the IC pump. The schematics say it should be GR-B on pin 17 of EA1 - Mine was GR-R. I looked through the schematics, and there is no other GR-R line that goes to the EA1, and I straight swapped the wires from the 3s plug, so not sure where that mix up came into play...another revision I dunno...but, its on the right pin on the connector, so I just moved forward with it.

Just checked a moment ago on that wire in question, and it does ring out at the ECU side where it should, and the color carries all the way there. So I guess its either an error in the manual, or just a later revision or something. /shrug, all should be fine.
Batman722
Different years have some different colors.
Always go by the pin #.
rave2n
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jan 9, 2016 - 6:48 PM) *
Different years have some different colors.
Always go by the pin #.


Reassuring to hear that!

That was my end result, figured in my profession colors mean nothing even on a basic cat5e cable, as long as 4 pins match it'll transfer. So I applied the same thought and lots of multi meter work. Schematics saved my life. I'm 98% Sure the wiring is right. I leave the 2% just in case I messed something up lol.
rave2n
Back to work. Spent most the morning messing with odds and ends.

Heat exchanger mounted up. Its a temp hold for now, I expect to change out front bumpers to the facelift, and thats when I figure I'll do that whole area. Including the AC coil which is pretty rough.

It'll hold for now. Need to grab some hardware, just wire holding it up know, but I also know my lines reach =)



Pump hung, still need to finish wiring it, but next weekend possibly. Ready to go though. This is another item I plan to find better placement for, and more secure mounting. I also want to remove the hardlines from the setup and butt up some rubber lines. I have no place to mount those, and they just get in the way of everything really. Be a easy delete, aslong as I can butt up to the formed lines easy enough.



Not exactly sure if I can fit the stock fans in there. Almost certain I can't. Its a oversized rad, so going to need to grab some slim fans to put on there or its going to be cooking on the downpipe.



Starting to get cluttered in there. Didn't expect everything to be so tight, but its fun figuring it out. Some accessories mount, AC, alternator. Still need to find belts for those, and a PS one.

Moved the boot down on the harness, and going to clean up, and extend the others next weekend. Hands are sore lol.



Well its moving along. Whats left to do in bay...

- Replace PS vacuum valve.
- Hook up PS lines
- Delete IC hardlines
- Connect IC pump wires
- Cruise Control Module
- Belts
- Air intake Filter and lines
- Extend connections on harness - Manage loom
- Fans on rad
- Sensor for rad
- Source or fabricate throttle cable mount - I stupidity threw it away
- Connect ECU
- Fuel Line to Filter Connection
- Fluids in everrrrything
- Get AC charged

So...I think thats another weekend if I can get all the parts I need.

Then I have some exterior items to fix. I put the new hub on, but I'm unimpressed by its condition. So I'm going to take my other hub to get a new bearing since it was torn up. Its in much better condition.

Also need to get some axles, and install walbro pump. After that, prime the system, and hope for the best!

Think I'm going to do something just like this for the fans.

enderswift
Why cant you mount the ic pump in the stock location?
rave2n
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jan 10, 2016 - 8:12 PM) *
Why cant you mount the ic pump in the stock location?


I...I couldn't find that location.

I thought maybe because I didn't have the ST205 front end I was missing some pieces.

I really hope it mounts normal lol....cause my ghetto rig is not nice.
enderswift
the mounting spot exists on the usdm frame. I'll try to find a photo for you
Batman722
rave2n
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jan 11, 2016 - 8:50 AM) *


Much thanks.

Now I can see why I couldn't find where the heck it mounted. I'm missing that piece of the bracket that connects to the frame.

Guess I'll fab one up.
rave2n
Fans and Brackets ordered. Got 2 Spal 30100467 12" Curved Blade Puller Fan.

Throttle Cable bracket found on Ebay and ordered.

Rad temp sensor pickup later today local.

Can't seem to find a OEM IC pump bracket, I have half of it, so going to fab up the last piece that seems to mount to the frame. Simple enough it looks like.

Debating if I want to replace the IC heat exchanger with an aftermarket one. Its not pretty, and I'm unimpressed by its mounting and condition. A good 200 bucks for another unit...I may do it.

rave2n
Remounted the IC pump to the stock location.

The mount isn't pretty, metal working is not one of my favorites things to do =P - But, it functions, and I know it won't fall out the car now.



Also removed the hardlines. May need to cut these back a little, but always good to have extra.



Bout all I felt like doing today. More to come when parts arrive.

What do you guys think about replacing my heat exchanger with this one?

http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-air-he...ger-p-1026.html
4-eyed-freek
I know it's a bit of money, but if your concerned about the heat from the downpipe get the ceramic coated berk downpipe. The decrease in heat is unreal!
rave2n
QUOTE (4-eyed-freek @ Jan 13, 2016 - 12:40 PM) *
I know it's a bit of money, but if your concerned about the heat from the downpipe get the ceramic coated berk downpipe. The decrease in heat is unreal!


For sure! When I got that downpipe, funds were low. Seeing I have it now, I plan to run it til it cracks, which it will lol.

Just going to wrap it for now, but a Burk is def on the horizon.
rave2n
Guestion for you folks.

Trying to figure out what to do about the BOV and its re-circulation. I have the OEM one, with the top of the air box, and hose, but I do not have the bottom of the box. Didn't come with swap. So that means I cannot just drop it all in there, I need to find means to make all this work.

I considered a Apexi kit that has the adapter for the OEM BOV, but I'm not seeing anywhere I can really pick that up unless I get it from Japan. Thats a long wait.

So, I have a piece of my old weapon R intake pipe that has a line for 1 hose, and 1 sensor. So I think that will work.

I feel like my only option is to get an after market BOV and latch it up to the IC.

If thats it, do you guys know of any reasonable BOVs I could purchase. Looking for less then 300$ - been searching all day, but its a bit confusing and i don't want to drop a bunch of coin on a valve that will be dead in a year.

Just looking for a reasonable path. If I have to bit the bullet I will...

4-eyed-freek
I am running an HKS induction kit with the oem bov location blocked off and a HKS SSQV bov. Both you can probably find for less than $300
Otherwise you can run the OEM air box and block off the bov section and run the bov on the intercooler. You will need an adapter to run the bov off the intercooler. ( if you need a complete air box let me know I have one I can sell)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HKS-UNIVERSAL-BLOW...FEY&vxp=mtr

enderswift
stretching my memory here, but I'm pretty sure the bottom of the airbox is the same between st205 and st204. I am personally a fan of the has ssqv iiii. I have it routed straight off of the intercooler with the adapter that 4eyed mentioned. It's worked perfectly for me.
rave2n
Appreciate the tips guys on the air situation.

I have a OEM box on the way for the time being, until I decide to revise that area. To much going on right now to mess with all that, when I can just OEM it up, and tinker later.

Finally got the fans mounted up to the rad. Took some time because I forgot to order the mounts, thought they came with the kit, but nope.

Tapping the posts to 1/4 20 and sizing mount rods.



And completed



May have finally done something right here, and I feel pretty confident I shouldn't have cooling issues. Was a big concern down here in FL.

Waiting on odds and ends at the moment. Order some guages, and some temp sensors for the IC and Rad. Coming from overseas so it'll be feb before those are in. Moving along moving along.
rave2n
Wrapping the down pipe.

Also can see the gauge cluster has come in. Wanted a over the vent style one, but couldn't find it. Lo-tek came through, with a pretty good fitting one, should require little work to fit.







That'll do
enderswift
lookin good man
rave2n
Finally!

Found a facelift bumper on ebay, that was a 2 hour drive away.

So went and saw Daytona beach, and grabbed the bumper for a crisp 215 from the salvage yard.

Guy said he had 13 calls after I purchased it on Ebay, he says he sells nearly every bolt on 94-99 Celicas. lol



Needs some loving, but I'll fix it up.

Oh...anyone have any clear turns?
CelicaDICE
QUOTE (rave2n @ Jan 26, 2016 - 7:41 PM) *
Oh...anyone have any clear turns?

I got clear turns. PM me if youre interested.
BonzaiCelica
Ouch that's got to hurt. N with no fog lights?
rave2n
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jan 31, 2016 - 3:58 PM) *
Ouch that's got to hurt. N with no fog lights?


Lol yea, wasn't cheap but I was tired of looking. I sporadically looked over the last 2 years and not finding one, or one that would ship was one of my de-motivators in this project.

Yea no fogs, but I'm okay with that, I didn't want them wink.gif
mkernz22
WTF....$215? That's a rip off.
You could have bought a brand new one from the dealer for $250...
rave2n
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Jan 31, 2016 - 9:31 PM) *
WTF....$215? That's a rip off.
You could have bought a brand new one from the dealer for $250...


Yea it felt kinda high, but I did call 3 dealers in the area within the same amount of drive time. They all said nope =/
rave2n
Well did try to do some work over the weekend.

Managed to get the pump wired up, no pictures really needed for that.

I did go to get the belts put on, and discovered I have lost my power steering pump top bolt. Pitched a fit, and tore the whole place apart, and couldn't find it, or anything like it.
I know my junk is cluttered, but I actually know where everything generally is.

Driving in this morning to work, I remembered what I did with it. I took it off the 3s and put it on the 5s, then forgot to take it back off when I sold the 5s.

So yea, new one on order from Yota, for 6 dollars. Once it gets here, I can move forward.
rave2n
Hey guys, I have not quit =P

I have surgery next week, simple stuff, but can't lift 10lbs for 6 weeks. So it may be difficult for me to progress for a little bit.

So with that, I've been quite busy at work making sure everything is in order.

Waiting on some parts anyway, but I will get back to it asap.
cheela
good luck with surgery. don't strain yourself.
time to plan on the little things while u heal.
rave2n
QUOTE (cheela @ Feb 11, 2016 - 5:14 PM) *
good luck with surgery. don't strain yourself.
time to plan on the little things while u heal.


Thanks man!

I think I might spend the time wiring the guages and such, that doesn't take much effort or lifting =)
Tigawoods
Yo! What diameter are those Spal Fans?
rave2n
QUOTE (Tigawoods @ Feb 12, 2016 - 4:49 PM) *
Yo! What diameter are those Spal Fans?


http://streetrays.com/newstore/index.php?r...roduct_id=47649
rave2n
3 weeks out of surgery.

2 more weeks to go, and I can start moving again.

having issue with the passenger carrier bracket. Seems I have to make up something to have it bolt properly to the block. If anyone could take a moment to send some pictures my way with what they did, it would be much appreciated.
enderswift
I used washers as spacers. been years without issues
rave2n
QUOTE (enderswift @ Apr 4, 2016 - 8:45 PM) *
I used washers as spacers. been years without issues


Mine just doesn't seem to line up =/ Its off by like a quarter inch on the top bolt.
rave2n
So I'm still alive.

I traded in my Jeep today after 3 long years of...Jeep...Easiest way to say it.

Came home with a 2010 Tacoma Prerunner SR5 - What I originally wanted. Loving it.

So, Im back to being all yota.

I did work on the Celica this weekend, finally found the spot for the passenger side axle bracket on the block, and worked on the PS pump some more. Its been a year since I worked on it, but..it felt good.

I won't make promises that I'll ever finish this, but..it did feel nice.
SwissFerdi
If you want a hand for a few hours I'm down...your trans is still running well.
rave2n
QUOTE (SwissFerdi @ Jan 10, 2017 - 10:41 PM) *
If you want a hand for a few hours I'm down...your trans is still running well.


That would be cool, not this weekend, as I need to organize my garage and project to even have a idea of what to do next, but the following is open =)
rave2n
If anyone is interested in purchasing this project.

Let me know.

Id like 3k. Very fair considering the investment put in this far.
ricochet1490
Why not finish at this point? It's basically engine just has to make it in the car now right?
rave2n
QUOTE (ricochet1490 @ Jun 2, 2017 - 8:48 AM) *
Why not finish at this point? It's basically engine just has to make it in the car now right?


I've been mulling over it for 2 years...maybe more now. I just cannot get the fire under my ass to finish it.

Engine is already in lol.

Literally all it needs is a couple wires on the harness extended, exhaust installed, AC condon if you want AC replaced, and a better heat exchanger mounting.

I have all the pieces except the exhaust which I was just going to take to a shop to finish.

I'd says its 2 weekends of work, and 500 bucks and its a done. The rest is cosmetic cleanup from sitting so long.
ricochet1490
I drive mine on occasion. It isn't perfect, but there is nothing like Celica handling in the corners because of the feedback the car gives you. You owe it to yourself to know what that feels like again, this time with actual horsepower. Too much engine work has been done, and I guarantee that if mine wasn't RHD, I'd drive it everyday and would not have a $400 payment every month.
You're right there, Jerry rig it and cut a hole in the firewall if you have to!

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