i am going w/ Royal Purple for just about everything... unfortunately they do not have an antifreeze.. so my first question pertains to that.
1: what coolant mixture and brand anti-freeze do any of you raced/turbo'ed 7AFE peeps use? -i will be in the south (gulf shore area) for the foreseeable future, and was looking at a 70-distilled water/30-anti-freeze + Royal Purple "ice" additive.
but have also looked into the Idea of 100% distilled water+the "ice".. i understand that the the 'anti-freeze also serves as a rust inhibitor, and lubricant for the water pump. but there is also the fact that no other liquid conducts heat better than water.
First start/Engine Break-in:
this is what i plan on doing, and is a combination of all of the information that i have gathered on breaking in a rebuilt motor. also assuming that everything is hooked up, and all fluids are filled.
1)Start with some cheap oil and a good filter.
2)Prime the oil pump: from my understanding, unplug the injector clips and power to the dizzy, and have the motor turn over a few times (aprox 15-20 sec), then re-install clips and power to the dizzy.
3)Start the car, (again assuming that all is well) and let the motor warm up for approx 20-30 min. might leave one of the vac lines unattached to get the RPM's to fluctuate and flutter. as well as use this time to burp the coolant, check for leaks, ensure that all electrical's are hooked up correctly.
4)Turn off the car and drain the oil compleatly.. (and dumped into container for recycle center-not to be reused by me) as well as removal of the filter.
5)Install new filter, and fill with Royal Purple Break-in fluid. use this to check once more for leeks and other fluid lvls'.
6)---now here is where i am not sure yet i have been reading ALLOT on how to break-in, and seat the the rings..
i have read, and re-read motoman's meathod..
and here are a few other variations of that method that i have pulled from around the net and a chunk from a supra forum.
QUOTE
On an 85 celica GTS: break-in method,
(this guy claims to have been re-building engines for over 10 years.)
I run between 1500-2000 rpms for 20 mins in the bay to break in the cam and then I go out and do 10 pulls in 2nd up to 4K then engine break down to 2K. Then i do this once everyday for 3 days after the car has completly cooled. This seats the rings solid.
(this guy claims to have been re-building engines for over 10 years.)
I run between 1500-2000 rpms for 20 mins in the bay to break in the cam and then I go out and do 10 pulls in 2nd up to 4K then engine break down to 2K. Then i do this once everyday for 3 days after the car has completly cooled. This seats the rings solid.
Other method by guy on celicasupra.com
QUOTE
Break-in consensus on list as I remember it.
Use magnetic oil plug and/or flex magnet on oil filter.
Use regular oil (no synthetic)
Idle engine till it gets to operating temperature.
Do a series of many runs (20 or more) accelerating at wot and decelerating at idle. (Let engine do all braking.) (Up a hill for acceleration and downhill for braking is probably better since engine is under full load a longer time.) Keep engine under 5Krpm for first few runs.
Idle for a few minutes at end of break-in so magnets can collect metal particles
Change oil and filter immediately after break-in (50 miles or less, fewest miles is best) and clean magnetic plug.
Change oil again (and clean plug) at 500 miles and switch to syn oil.
Use magnetic oil plug and/or flex magnet on oil filter.
Use regular oil (no synthetic)
Idle engine till it gets to operating temperature.
Do a series of many runs (20 or more) accelerating at wot and decelerating at idle. (Let engine do all braking.) (Up a hill for acceleration and downhill for braking is probably better since engine is under full load a longer time.) Keep engine under 5Krpm for first few runs.
Idle for a few minutes at end of break-in so magnets can collect metal particles
Change oil and filter immediately after break-in (50 miles or less, fewest miles is best) and clean magnetic plug.
Change oil again (and clean plug) at 500 miles and switch to syn oil.
and a few more from another supra forum.
QUOTE
I've been seeing this thread, wanting to post a response. since no one had touched it for a long time, and in fear of the flames, I'd held my tongue.. (ok, my keyboard)
If you look at the procedures for rotax ultralights, the basic idea is that of progressive loading periods followed by cool-downs.
But some of the Supra Gurus have distilled it down to this procedure..
First, dry crank the car for 15 seconds (disconnect coil packs and igniters)
Then, start the car, but do not let it idle - run it at about 1700-2000 rpm for about 30 seconds - long enough to know that there are no major leaks. For this, I had my kid with his foot on the throttle, watching the revs whils I looked with a flashlight all over and under the engine bay.
Then drive around for about 5 minutes, normally with the exception of not letting it idle. Again, quickly check for leaks.
Go somewhere where you have a lot of room to work (isolated highway) and go on progressive loads at 20, 30 40% throttle and in 10% increments all the way to 100%, all in 6th gear, for 15-30 seconds. Between each load cycle, you cruise at about 1700-2000 rpm for 5 minutes to cool things down. Towards the end, you will be going very, very fast.
This procedure heats/cools everything in progressive cycles, taking care of both sealing the rings and the metallic grain structure of the pistons.
Then change the oil and you are done.
I broke in my (oft maligned) new short block, Andi B broke in his new Z-06 (and ended up with more HP that most other Z-06's, but who's to tell what the cause was)
Credit goes to Lance W.
Cheers
Rich B 95 BPU 6-spd
If you look at the procedures for rotax ultralights, the basic idea is that of progressive loading periods followed by cool-downs.
But some of the Supra Gurus have distilled it down to this procedure..
First, dry crank the car for 15 seconds (disconnect coil packs and igniters)
Then, start the car, but do not let it idle - run it at about 1700-2000 rpm for about 30 seconds - long enough to know that there are no major leaks. For this, I had my kid with his foot on the throttle, watching the revs whils I looked with a flashlight all over and under the engine bay.
Then drive around for about 5 minutes, normally with the exception of not letting it idle. Again, quickly check for leaks.
Go somewhere where you have a lot of room to work (isolated highway) and go on progressive loads at 20, 30 40% throttle and in 10% increments all the way to 100%, all in 6th gear, for 15-30 seconds. Between each load cycle, you cruise at about 1700-2000 rpm for 5 minutes to cool things down. Towards the end, you will be going very, very fast.
This procedure heats/cools everything in progressive cycles, taking care of both sealing the rings and the metallic grain structure of the pistons.
Then change the oil and you are done.
I broke in my (oft maligned) new short block, Andi B broke in his new Z-06 (and ended up with more HP that most other Z-06's, but who's to tell what the cause was)
Credit goes to Lance W.
Cheers
Rich B 95 BPU 6-spd
QUOTE
Just wanted to write a quick follow-up on my break-in experience. I decided to return everything to stock before starting the new motor. Put the stock turbos, fuel, MAF, and stock ECU back in there. It fired up fine and ran great except for a small coolant leak on the firewall. After that was fixed, car was warmed up for 20 minutes and moderately flogged for 70 miles. I kept it under 5000-5500 rpm for the first couple hundred miles, but started boosting it to 10-11psi within 50 miles of break-in. Changed the oil at 70 miles, then again at 330 miles. Now it's got around 1200 city and highway miles on it, and I'm about to change it again. Engine sounds smooth and wonderful, no problems thus far. I'll post another follow-up as soon as a compression check is done. After another couple thousand miles are on the car, I'm going to switch over the big turbos/fuel/AEM and get it tuned correctly. Till then, it's a fun-ass BPU monster
QUOTE
I just found this thread, and I've got to throw in my $0.02.
When I built my first engine, many moons ago, I did the same search about breakin procedures. I searched the internet, consulted my factory manual, read anything I could find until I spoke to the head machinist where I worked. He was an older guy who was VERY intelligent, and didn't like doing things "by the book" just because it was "the book".
He told me to fire it up, break in the cam (if it was a pushrod flat-tappet style engine), then drive it like I stole it and change the oil within a week. Having been a cam grinder now, I agree with him as far as breaking the cam in goes, but that doesn't really apply to most import engines.
So, every engine I've ever built, I've started it up, got it up to operating temp, and beat the $HIT out of it!!! I've been doing this for almost ten years now, and it hasn't failed me once! Every engine I've ever built has been great, and passed with flying colours at the local emissions centers.
Reading what Motoman has to say makes me happy . He says to do what I've always done, and gave good reasons as to why.
When I built my first engine, many moons ago, I did the same search about breakin procedures. I searched the internet, consulted my factory manual, read anything I could find until I spoke to the head machinist where I worked. He was an older guy who was VERY intelligent, and didn't like doing things "by the book" just because it was "the book".
He told me to fire it up, break in the cam (if it was a pushrod flat-tappet style engine), then drive it like I stole it and change the oil within a week. Having been a cam grinder now, I agree with him as far as breaking the cam in goes, but that doesn't really apply to most import engines.
So, every engine I've ever built, I've started it up, got it up to operating temp, and beat the $HIT out of it!!! I've been doing this for almost ten years now, and it hasn't failed me once! Every engine I've ever built has been great, and passed with flying colours at the local emissions centers.
Reading what Motoman has to say makes me happy . He says to do what I've always done, and gave good reasons as to why.
so my last question is: how have/would you all do it?