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6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > My Project
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Anoroc
Oh hi.

I've been lurking here for a while for the wealth of motivation in the build threads and such.

I has a '96 GT4. Being in NZ, it is a JDM facelifted one - no trispokes here, though unfortunately noone in the car's past ever thought to pick up projectors.

It currently looks like this:


Anyway, hi, sup etc.

Oh, I have a build thread here, and am much too lazy to cross-post everything!

http://www.gpforums.co.nz/showthread.php?threadid=435792
dudeofchaos
Nice build! Looks very good and clean!
I wanted to change my spark plugs too and I wondered how I had to deal with the IC. Thanks for the info! I'm just curious though, coolant won't come out when you take the IC out?
Anoroc
You don't actually remove it - you just take it from the intake mani and turbo and bend it out of the way - there's about 80 degrees of movement in it, definitely more than enough to get the plugs out.

The things you learn frown.gif
richee3
Welcome to the forum smile.gif Looks like a good clean car!
dudeofchaos
QUOTE (Anoroc @ Apr 30, 2012 - 4:27 PM) *
You don't actually remove it - you just take it from the intake mani and turbo and bend it out of the way - there's about 80 degrees of movement in it, definitely more than enough to get the plugs out.

The things you learn frown.gif


Ohhhh I see what you did there. Nice tip! Thanks! tongue.gif
Syaoran
Or you can just... set up an FMIC!
Rusty
Hi great to see another NZ'er join thumbsup.gif

let me know if you want this thread moved into the my project section
Bladey
Yay another gt4 owner, Checked out your log, very handy about the spark plugs as im doing it this weekend, is your old exhuast for sale?
Anoroc
QUOTE (Bladey @ May 7, 2012 - 7:42 AM) *
Yay another gt4 owner, Checked out your log, very handy about the spark plugs as im doing it this weekend, is your old exhuast for sale?

It will likely be, but the problem is I'm not sure when!

I've decided to bite several bullets and go 3" mandrel SS from the turbo back, which will cost more money than I currently have, so i'm not sure when the current system will be free.

I'm not sure how they 'did' the 2.5" system currently there either, since its not a larger diameter copy of the OE system, so it might be a little awkward. I'll post it up here before putting it on trademe at any rate.
Bladey
Yea the stock one is i think 2 and 1/8 or slighty bigger and is semi free flow only real problems with it are the rear muffler and the cat/downpipe. What pads do you run? gota love the brakes
Anoroc
Thats a good question, I have no idea! I'm presuming some slightly ghetto-spec ones based on the previous owner. They seem to still have plenty of meat on them, so I won't find out for a while.

(Could this thread be moved to projects pretty please?)

Might as well start posting updates to here, means I feel like i'm actually contributing. After work this week, i've been doing this:



Which has resulted in this:

Rusty
done






is that arm for stereo factory fitted?
Box
Glow in the dark rims? Cool. thumbsup.gif
Anoroc
Nah, it was put there for the previous headunit, just screwed into the steering sheath, but it works with my new one which is great - its fantastic for lazy people - only a 5cm movement, rather than a 25cm one!

Glowing wheels finished, clear and all:

Box
Can't wait to see them on the car at night!
Anoroc
Daytime




Nighttime!

Box
Bet that looks just badass going down the road at night.
Needles
hi,
your car is certainly really clean and look very good,
i assume that is a test whit the rims,
look good at night,
but i dont feel the white of the rim, whit the paint white of the car, doesnt look the same
Anoroc
Oh no, its not - and I never expected it to be. Glow in the dark is always a snotty green!

The point of it is the violently glowing green at nighttime biggrin.gif
Anoroc
Changed the oil with some Penrite 0w50 for the second time.

Appears that my first time was abnormally slow - now that I know what to undo (4 bolts to remove a plastic guard), and the drain plug and filter aren't welded directly to the sump, it took all of about 20min. The slowest part was waiting for it to drain.

Picture taken while waiting for it to drain.

dudeofchaos
Do you have to lift the car up to change the oil from the wheel side or you have enough room to work? Cause I might go this way next time.
Anoroc
Someone in their infinite wisdom, decided that lopping a couple of coils off the springs would be a good idea. On stock suspension, you'd probably have enough room if you just turned the wheel out of the way, but I needed to lift that corner, remove the wheel, then change the filter/fiddle with the sump plug.

The angle helped the draining, at least!
Anoroc
Since my last post, my Spree LED set has turned up, matching everything to the headunit



A+, would Spree again.


Then, yesterday - moved car out of garage to run days errands. Went to close garage door. Saw small patch of fresh oil on ground.

Sighed.

Not sure what its from, but its certainly from the engine side, rather than the rear diff or anything silly like that. Hoped its me not putting the sump plug or oil filter on tight enough.

Got up bright and early this morning - The house is a mess, i'm hungry and should probably have a shower. What else to do but investigate an oil leak?

I drove to town and went to dinner last night (about 4hrs), and the oil patch (nothing but the best scientific methods here) was a similar size to the one left after parking it up in the garage overnight (about 8hrs) - implying that time has less to do with the leak than oil pressure/temperature.

Method:
Take wheel and stupid plastic cover thing off. Filter is on so tightly I would need to stop being bald and develop Samson-like powers to remove it.

Thats one possibility ruled out.


Oil only on the end of the cover. It appears the sump is the likely culprit.


Look up, black gold all over the bottom of the sump.


Apply contortionist, take photo of sump plug. Nothing above it, no evidence of leaks from up on high, and I managed to get another 1/4-1/2 of a turn out of it. Clearly, I've caught the mother****er red handed.


This is a far too common sight.


Putting the wheel back on, topping the oil up just incase, and going for a thrash. If the engine blows up, I was wrong. If nothing happens and the leak stops, I was right. If the leak doesn't stop, I go back to the drawing board and cry myself to sleep.
Anoroc
Went for my drive, stopped at BP Melling (Wellington members only need apply) to hemorrage some money into the fuel tank, and wound up parking behind another GT-Four, who unfortunately doesn't post here or anywhere else i've seen!

Was quietly jelly - was a silver '96 or '97, with the SS2 skirts/caps (which i've been trying to find on Trademe for a reasonable price, but haven't had any luck). Nice guy too - shared a "You're awesome!" "Thanks, you're awesome too!" pair of smiles before having a chat with him. No homo.

Parked up a few hours ago, leak has stopped. Success!
ruckusas
QUOTE
Went for my drive, stopped at BP Melling


Nice to see another member around Lower Hutt! You didn't happen to drive past the Hutt Rec today?

The spree kit does look very good
Anoroc
Nah, just stopped in at Melling on the way to Ngaio. I live in UH, so its the closest 98 unfortunately =/.
SwissFerdi
Always a fun learning experience, catching a mess-up caused by yourself. I changed my oil (done it quite a few times, so not due to lack of experience) about a month ago...started the car, pulled away, oil pressure light...I had screwed the filter on incorrectly and it puked four liters. No engine damage, so a lesson learned.

Anyway, cheers to progress. I really like the glow-in-the-dark idea.
Rusty
Been thinking of getting a Spree LED kit, how would you rate it on brightness and light spread evenly?

Glad you got the oil problem sorted before it caused too much trouble.
Anoroc
Brightness is better than the factory off-yellow, and the spread is only as good as you manage to install it - mine is noticably better than the factory LEDs, though its not why I wanted the kit biggrin.gif
manphibian
Love the rims biggrin.gif
Anoroc
Will get a decent nighttime glowing picture of them on the car at some point, just need to find someone with a less crappy camera than mine biggrin.gif

Rear diff has been getting a little clunky as of late, so I brought this a week or so ago, though I had forgotten about it.

So of course it feels like Christmas when it arrives.


Anoroc
Also, tried to change rear diff oil.

Failed miserably. Fill plug is frozen, and there's insufficient space to get a rattle gun to it. Drain plug got changed to an alan key plug for some reason, and is also frozen. Le sigh.
delusionz
hey sup

your pics load too slow for me, sitting here 10 mins and i only have a little strip of the top section



Duuuuude nononononono dont put that in your gearbox, you got the wrong one, its 75w90NS (NS for non-LSD) for the gearbox

The one for the rear diff should be Heavy Shockproof
zfjohnson07
those speakers you didnt like looked sick!! gawd i wish i had a st205 in the U.S.A
Anoroc
QUOTE (delusionz @ Jun 5, 2012 - 7:42 AM) *
hey sup

your pics load too slow for me, sitting here 10 mins and i only have a little strip of the top section



Duuuuude nononononono dont put that in your gearbox, you got the wrong one, its 75w90NS (NS for non-LSD) for the gearbox

The one for the rear diff should be Heavy Shockproof


Yeah, iforce has problems during NZ peak times. Sadfase.

That oil isn't going in the gearbox, dw! Was recommended it for the rear diff, since there's hardly a huge amount of pressure being put on it.

And Mr Johnson, you could come live in our pseudo-socialist paradise and be one of the very, very few people who own one! It'd be ~$5k USD for a good one :3.

I've had this for 6 months and 12,000km, and other than a guy I knew IRL, I've only seen one other one. I know they exist, such as Mike and Clint who post on here, but I've just never seen them!
Anoroc
Have needed tyres for ages, but didn't really want to buy tyres for the OEM wheels, since I didn't intend on keeping them forever, so i've been keeping an eye out for tyres+wheels.

Turns out, f*** 5x100. f*** it with the fire of a thousand suns.

Today, however, I threw money at these:

A set of 17x8+35 Enkei RPF01s:


Will struggle to be patient before they arrive frown.gif
delusionz
Very nice!
Box
Nice, just have to something about those center caps. redface.gif
Anoroc
Thankfully, some silly Golf owner just attached them over the factory ones. I don't understand either.

But they'll come right off biggrin.gif
Box
Indeed, they should look great. Was thinking about getting some 16" RPF's for mine, this will help. tongue.gif
Anoroc
New wheels on.

Ride quality is delicious in comparison, brand new tyres appear to be ideal. Considering some rear spacers, and it needs to be a fair bit lower at the back to not look too silly, but it looks much better than the stock ones.

Definately need hub rings, but it appears that my understeer woes were primarily due to completely bald shoulders on my previous tyres. Took the Paekak hill back home from Waikanae (where some wheel nuts that fit were hiding), and despite the cold evening and damp road, didn't find the point of understeer despite throwing it into corners progressively harder throughout the ride. Non-NZ based posters should browse streetview through that road, its a damn good drive!

Previously, i'd have sledged the entire way through. I presume this means i'll get shoulder wear fairly quickly on these, but I can't have it all.





Related note, do any NZ-based posters want some glow-in-the-dark facelift ST205 wheels on some borderline tyres? Special plice!
Rusty
front definitelly look good, rears as you said could use a spacer

nope on the rims, mine are white wink.gif
SwissFerdi
Man those wheels are tasty.
delusionz
theres a reason why the rear is jacked up like that, and why the rear track is 5mm narrower than the front, its to reduce the understeer inherent in the chassis and drivetrain design,

in my experience (trial and mostly error) the best setup that looks good and is still functional is 17x8 ET25 (or equiv in spacers, which requires fender roll), reduce rear negcamber from -2 to -1 and increase front negcamber from 0 to -1 (even all round) ride height should be mostly same all round since reducing the rear negcamber will reduce rear grip but lowering the rear will increase it again.

rear spacer and lowered rear = understeer city
delusionz
ideal ride height for handling i think would be anything tall enough so the tyres arent tucked, i think celicas need that long suspension stroke to have good handling
Anoroc
I have spoken to the fine gentleman at Frost Motorsport who is game to convert this overweight, understeering orphan from 4WD to N/S RWD, most likely through the use of a W58.

Wife pursuasion and funding pending.

I'm sure it'll divide a few opinions, but the reality is that with children on the way in the not-too-distant future, this won't see as much track time as I would like, nor will it likely ever see the business end of a Targa stage. Hence, I want it to be as enjoyable as possible where it is used, which is on the street, with the occasional Wendys run over the Paekak Hill.

The change in format, moving of the engine and reverting to 2WD should clean up the understeering issues the car has, remove a fair amount of power sap from the drivetrain, and drop the weight significantly (as well as leaving what remains further back.

This is rather longterm, and may not commence for some time. Thoughts appreciated.

ACTUAL UPDATE: Painted the ugly muffler/exhaust tip with black VHT so I don't have to see it as much until the actual exhaust gets built.
Anoroc
Reference pic from before paint, none taken as yet:



Good lawd it was ugly. You can see my ST202's butt with the GT4's boot lid. I do miss it.
delusionz
Lol get that GT4 badge back.

My engineer also would like to see my GT4 turn into a 2jz rwd monster. I keep telling him its too extreme, I may aswell have the Supra in the first place.

Also what happens to our steering setup? There would be no need for the bull**** macphersonsuperslutsuspension anymore once the wheels are freed from the drivetrain, so some kind of A-arm suspension from a Nissan or Mazda or something may be the way to go, then if this means different hubs, chances are we get to upgrade to 5x114 wheels (loads more choice), so then we'd also want to swap the rear suspension too so custom strut mounts all round too.

did you see GT8/GT4000 on Toyspeed?

its one heck of a job, i think if you had a full supra tt to donate the parts, you'd just drive the supra...
delusionz
oh by the way, yes, rotate your wheels every 5000kms (with an oil change is good)

if you drive anything like i do, you'll wear the fronts down with lots of camber wear

superstrut is good for that
Anoroc
I keep thinking that maybe I should flag the stupidstrut-equipped chubby thing in the garage and just pick up a Mk3 Supra with a 1JZ and do skids that way.

But to be honest, even if it takes more effort, I want to have it done with a GT4. There's few enough of them around as it is, and I like being different, even if it does make everything harder and more expensive than it needs to be.

Kinda like the wife. Trolololol.

The superslut suspension can be converted to MacPherson as it is - the other guy down this way with a GT4 that I know of is building a relatively monstrous 3S, and has already converted to plain old MacP coilovers at the front through some engineering trickery. Annoying to do, especially so if you're still running the stock 4pots at the front, but possible.

The GT8 burnout vid is one of the most delicious things i've ever seen - automated boot opening/closing to let smoke out? A+


QUOTE (delusionz @ Jul 16, 2012 - 8:07 PM) *
oh by the way, yes, rotate your wheels every 5000kms (with an oil change is good)

if you drive anything like i do, you'll wear the fronts down with lots of camber wear

superstrut is good for that


Yep, didn't expect the shoulders to last as long as the rest of the tyres tongue.gif
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