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Full Version: Onnaj's 1998 Celica ST to 4AGE 20V Blacktop conversion
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onnaj
Follow my topic cause in the next months i'm going to put a 4AGE 20V Blacktop engine in my 1998 Celica 7AFE. I just love the noise and revs of the Blacktop. I was also doubting about the Beams, but that engine was much more expensive, so the Blacktop wil be the one for me at the moment. Thought also about the 1MZ-FE, but it hasn't been done a lot in Holland and the engines cannot be find over here.

So i've order the blacktop with all the ancillaries, i think at least, and through club4ag.com i've ordered an uncut wiring harness and ECU from a 6 speed m/t. I'm going to use my own C52 gearbox.

So will be continued soon.....
Smaay
you telling me there are no camrys, RX300, ES300, Solaras over there.
Nihil
About blacktop - are you going to swap 7A-FE for 4A-GE, or are you going to make a hybrid of both - 7A-GE?

QUOTE (Smaay @ Feb 16, 2013 - 3:15 PM) *
you telling me there are no camrys, RX300, ES300, Solaras over there.

I think that these cars are pretty rare here in EU, especially Lexus brand... I rarely see a Lexus on the road :S
richee3
What about a Toyota Harrier? Asking simply because a Harrier and RX 300 are one and the same.

onnaj- Good luck with the swap! Post plenty of pictures. thumbsup.gif
Dutch951
Interested in following this swap! Hope all goes well for ya!
onnaj
QUOTE (Smaay @ Feb 16, 2013 - 8:15 PM) *
you telling me there are no camrys, RX300, ES300, Solaras over there.


Yes there are camrys over here but almost all came with either the 2.2 and the newer with the 2.4 engines. The rx300 has been sold here but there are very very little, so costs are really high.

What do you guys pay then for a complete v6 with ecu, wiring, etc?

In the beginning I'm planning to do the normal 4age swap, not the 7age because there's a lot more involved doing that.

Pictures will come asap! smile.gif
onnaj
This is how the car is at the moment:











I'm not going to do much about the outside of the car. I just love it the way it is. I don't like big spoilers, my nose touching the road again and again, etc. wink.gif
onnaj
I've bought an old 7afe (without airco frown.gif) harness to play with before i'm going to cut the one in the car.

Here some photo's:
The complete wiring which has been cut in the engine compartment, a few inches from the firewall hole:


The ECU connectors:


The .... connectors, don't know yet what they are for:


The cut harness with (from what i remember is) the IAT connector:

I'm not sure of i can do a lot with this old harness, but i think it wouldn't harm to have some spare cables and connector by hand.

Now hopefully someone can help me out with finding the wiring diagrams for both the 4AGE 20V blacktop and 7AFE Celica. The engine is going to be picked up tomorrow so more pics to follow! biggrin.gif

onnaj
I've been very busy with cleaning and tearing down the engine apart. What a sludge it has. Some people never seen so much sludge in any engine at all. They all say that it was used for short distances and hadn't have any regular maintenance at all or at least very little.

I'm going to bring my head, cams and bottom end to a shop that has a special washer for these parts. I don't want any sludge in my oil passages.

I've already cleaned the cam bridge, cam cover, cams, etc with brake cleaner, furnace cleaner and 60 degrees high pressure engine clearance. Didn't use the last one on my cams though wink.gif

Check my imageshack album for the 'blacktop tearing apart and rebuild' here.


I've ordered a lot of parts like:
1) Distributor cap
2) Rotor
3) Engine overhaul gasket kit
4) Water pump
5) Oil pump
6) Complete timing belt kit, with new tensioner cause they tend to fail when they're getting old smile.gif
7) Coil and igniter
8) Spark plugs
9) Spark plug wires, not genuine but Seiwa. Hopefully they'll do the job
10) Clutch disc
11) Clutch pressure plate
12) Silvertop flywheel (couldn't get a blacktop anywhere...this one weighs 1kg more frown.gif)

Besides that i'm going to order piston rings, crankshaft and conrod bearings. But i need to know if the rehone can be done without needing oversize rings. I also need to know which number the bearings have and for that i have to check the engine again for the numbers. And i have to sell my turbokit for extra money biggrin.gif (so check the sell adds smile.gif)

I have to admit that i'm happy that i first opened the cam cover! My idea was to just get the engine, put it into the engine bay and drive, but i don't think that would get my far. With this ammount of sludge a problem (oil usage for example) has to appear very soon.

So a tip for everyone who's doing a swap. Double your money!! You don't want to just put an engine like this in and drive. This will cost you more but if you drive normally and respect operating temperatures your engine will last another 200.000 km for sure!

And today i talked to a friend which happen to work at the DAF garage in Holland. DAF builds trucks especially for europe, don't know about the USA. He's busy with writing and making schemes / wiring diagrams for the engine, chassis, etc so he'd really like to help me with the wiring. That's handy for sure! smile.gif
I don't think the wiring will be a bitch. The 7AFE and 4AGE 20V Blacktop are a lot the same! I can and will use the 7AFE harness and solder, repin, add extra wires (for example the VVT), use the 4AGE 3th connector (cause it's different), etc and then it'll be ready. Hopefully about 6-8 hours.

ps: If you'd like me to put the photo's here directly instead of a link to imageshack, then please let me know. Any alternatives to imageshack are welcome also!
celica74
While you have the motor out and rebuilding it, i would suggest putting some money into building the motor. Alot of guys have gone this same route (swap 7a for a 4a) and have been displeased because the 4a was designed for a lighter car then the celica. They just dont have torque. But the 20v breath much better then the 7a and isnt hard at all to get some power out of them. Like suggested before you could build the bottom end of your old 7a and use the 4a head. Still have the torque of the 7a and then some. Either way you look at it is a big undertaking just to even swap in a 4a. Good luck and keep us updated.
onnaj
Maybe i'm going to do that in the future. That's too expensive for me at the moment and i think there's not enough information on the internet on the 7AFE combined with the Blacktop head. I know when doing it right, with good engine management i should be able to get around 190 horses.

I think the AE111 Levin weighs about the same as the Celica ST, so i think the result won't be that bad. Don't forget when i'm going to change to the 3SGE and gearbox that this certainly adds some weight! Especially when changing to the Beams with LSD Gearbox.

For me the Blacktop is enough for the moment. I'm going to keep my old engine, so i mights use it later on for a 7AGE.
Smaay
your logic escapes me but best of luck to you
BonzaiCelica
how much does a helical lsd add to the s54 transmission?
onnaj
I don't know exactly, but if i'd buy a Celica 3SGE over here (the 176hp version) it weighs about 60-70 kg more.
onnaj
So i got a lot of stuff in today again smile.gif

1) Pistons (friend of mine media glass blasted one piston. Even with low pressure this isn't a good idea...the glass gets in the piston and will come out when hot and then damage the bearing, or destroy the engine!)
2) Piston rings
3) Crankshaft bearings
4) Rod bearings
5) Thrust washers
6) Head bolts (used the 4AGE 16V exhuast ones)
7) Some other little stuff

Today i've painted half of the block and some support brackets, tomorrow the rest will be painted except the head, cam cover, etc.

So i'm almost ready to build it up again. Costed a lot, but the engine is almost completely new in a few weeks. And best i'm enjoying the work, despite the money it costs! wink.gif

Photos will be added soon!
delusionz
sorry to go off topic but forget 7age, when you build a custom motor its very expensive and time consuming. for the money/time you could build anything you like, it would be a shame if the end result was 160bhp@6000 (yes thats right, a 7a bottom end wont like revving to 8000 without the aid of a turbo) there are several cheaper,easier&more powerful routes with the S series engine like our chassis were originally designed to use.

A series is a complete step backwards for us, the 7AG belongs to the Corolla as it brings them displacement that they cant get from any other place. The ideal setup for them is the 7AF block with GZE pistons and rods, blacktop head and GT28 - GT30 series turbocharger. Obviously this would be stupid for us when the 3SGTE has been here all along.
delusionz
anyways, nice to see a blacktop in a Celica, sounds novel. could be pretty cool
onnaj
QUOTE (delusionz @ Mar 18, 2013 - 10:44 PM) *
sorry to go off topic but forget 7age, when you build a custom motor its very expensive and time consuming. for the money/time you could build anything you like, it would be a shame if the end result was 160bhp@6000 (yes thats right, a 7a bottom end wont like revving to 8000 without the aid of a turbo) there are several cheaper,easier&more powerful routes with the S series engine like our chassis were originally designed to use.

A series is a complete step backwards for us, the 7AG belongs to the Corolla as it brings them displacement that they cant get from any other place. The ideal setup for them is the 7AF block with GZE pistons and rods, blacktop head and GT28 - GT30 series turbocharger. Obviously this would be stupid for us when the 3SGTE has been here all along.


I don't agree ofcourse with the 4AGE being a step backwards. Don't forget the Blacktop was on the market since 1996, so it has some new technics, like the VVT. Our engine, the 7AFE was there from 1993 i believe? Getting the car from 115 horses to 160-165 horses isn't exactly what i call a step back. I think it's nice while it's a light engine, it's NA and it's passing the 100 hp per litre!

Now here some additional photos by the way:

The package with all the new stuff:




Painted brackets:




All painted with special Hammerite Matt Black paint, which should be safe to about 650 degrees. The engine itselves is also matt black already, so it's a black bottom with blacktop biggrin.gif
rave2n
QUOTE (onnaj @ Mar 19, 2013 - 8:22 AM) *
All painted with special Hammerite Matt Black paint, which should be safe to about 650 degrees. The engine itselves is also matt black already, so it's a black bottom with blacktop biggrin.gif


I like your choice in coloring =)
onnaj
QUOTE (rave2n @ Mar 20, 2013 - 5:40 PM) *
QUOTE (onnaj @ Mar 19, 2013 - 8:22 AM) *
All painted with special Hammerite Matt Black paint, which should be safe to about 650 degrees. The engine itselves is also matt black already, so it's a black bottom with blacktop biggrin.gif


I like your choice in coloring =)


thanks! smile.gif

I have to add to the previous post that also the fuel consumption of the 4age is a lot better then the 3SGE of V6, thats also important over here, where just 1 litre, yes 1 litre costs about $2.20!! frown.gif (2.20 * 3,785 litres = $8,327 a gallon!!)
onnaj
try to add pictures tomorrow!

New pistons, new rings, new conrod and crankshaft bearings, con rods, etc etc have been mounted already! This feels like a giant leap forwards haha biggrin.gif

EDIT: pictures added:

Bare block:


Short block with engine squirters cleaned and mounted:


Old and new bearings:


Mounted the crankshaft:


The crankshaft (yes it looks a lot less orange after the wash biggrin.gif)


Crankshaft closeup:


Ready to get in:


You can't oil enough:


Crankshaft back in the engine! Wow we;re really building it up again!! biggrin.gif


And ofcourse oil, oil and oil biggrin.gif


and more oil: smile.gif


And...the pistons are suddenly back in. (forgot to make pictures when putting them in frown.gif)


To be certain we wrote in which sequence we have to torque them:
onnaj
Yesterday we've mounted the oil pump and waterpump. We did want to do a lot more but cleaning the oil filter adaptor kept me busy for about 2 hours. That thing was dirty as hell!! Maybe we're going on with it today. We plan to disassembly the head today so i can either clean it myself or take it to the rebuild shop to wash it.

The pictures from yesterdays progress:




rave2n
Quick work!

Never seen such detail inside this engine, nice to see something diff.
onnaj
Last week we have been busy again. And damn what were those intake valve stem seals stuck!We had a lot of trouble getting them out, while on the exhaust side they went pretty easy. This engine must have used loads of oil. I think more oil then fuel tongue.gif

The head:




Valve stem seals (yes they're completely gone):


Combustion chambe...pff those have to be cleaned up as well later on frown.gif:








Another head picture:


onnaj
So cleaned the head up a bit with mr muscle, now it's at the rebuild shop to get it washed thorougly. Men how difficult it is to clean the head with all those westvleteren 10 keep on smiling at you smile.gif (the people who loves beer, exactly know what i'm talking about haha biggrin.gif


I've been busy with cleaning and polishing the valves. Most work though was cleaning all the valve components. Men that took a long time.
Here's a picture of the cleaned and polished valve and all of it's components:





Pictures of the cleaned valves, nicely sorted in small bags. Important to do this otherwise you'd never remember which went were again.

playr158
Motor progress looks great! gotta love 20v goodness!
onnaj
So despite Eastern i was able to do a little work on the engine again. I've cleaned the camshaft caps and bolt and the head bolts and washer. I've also measured the head bolts and they were all factory new sizes, so i can easily use those again.

Camshaft caps:



Head bolts and washer:


Head bolts:


Head bolts meausrements:
onnaj
So, been busy again. Yes it's almost looking a bit like an engine again biggrin.gif We've mounted the oil pan and crankshaft seal. Besides that i've put a lot of sweat (and mr muscle:)) to clean the throttle body. Difficult part to clean, cause it's not straight in any place at all.

After mounting the crankshaft seal and before mounting the oil pan.




After mounting the oil pan (but please don't tell me you see some dots on the newly paint engine...yes there's and i'm sick of that. Put a lot of time in painting it) frown.gif





Some pictures after cleaning the throttle body. Not special pictures, but it really was necessary to do it. Don't mind the crappy pictures cause i forgot to take my cam with me, these are shot with my Samsung Galaxy S and as you can see it makes 'wonderfull' pictures wink.gif










enderswift
Good work. Rebuilding your own engine sure is satisfying isn't it?

Oh yea, I wouldn't reuse to head bolts. I'm almost positive they are torque to yield.
onnaj
This is really satisfying yes! smile.gif And i know now i have a good engine that can go on for years.

I know for sure they can be reused, it's in the Toyota manual. wink.gif As long as they meet the 2 requirements: 1) the lenght has to be within spec and 2) he has to meet the torque specifications.
Legen-dary
Nice job trying something different! The blacktop is a good engine and though underpowered by modern comparison is still decent. I agree that the sound of a properly built blackop is wonderful! Anyways it looks like you're very detailed and doing your research so I'm sure it will turn out well. Good luck and looking forward to seeing the progress!
onnaj
QUOTE (Legen-dary @ Apr 4, 2013 - 5:39 PM) *
Nice job trying something different! The blacktop is a good engine and though underpowered by modern comparison is still decent. I agree that the sound of a properly built blackop is wonderful! Anyways it looks like you're very detailed and doing your research so I'm sure it will turn out well. Good luck and looking forward to seeing the progress!


Thanks! I'll keep you all updated smile.gif

So:
Planning is to the rest of the head work and completely assembly the engine within about 2 weeks. In that time i might get my airbox and cam covers powdercoated. Not going for Stacks yet so the airbox need to look new! biggrin.gif

After that it's time to do the wiring. Got a lot of info already so the wiring shouldn't be a hell of a job. We'll keep the 7AFE harness and adapt the 4AGE 20V harness. Don't know if i told this already but a friend of mine works at DAF Netherlands. He does wirings and schematics all day long so that'll work out just fine.

When that's ready, yes it transplanting time! Need to get a throttle cable for that and then a looooooooong 1500 miles to run it in. (don't know if you call this that way in english language wink.gif)

So progress i being made over here!
Legen-dary
QUOTE (onnaj @ Apr 4, 2013 - 1:04 PM) *
When that's ready, yes it transplanting time! Need to get a throttle cable for that and then a looooooooong 1500 miles to run it in. (don't know if you call this that way in english language wink.gif)


We call that a "break-in" period.
onnaj
QUOTE (Legen-dary @ Apr 5, 2013 - 7:38 PM) *
QUOTE (onnaj @ Apr 4, 2013 - 1:04 PM) *
When that's ready, yes it transplanting time! Need to get a throttle cable for that and then a looooooooong 1500 miles to run it in. (don't know if you call this that way in english language wink.gif)


We call that a "break-in" period.


Thanks! Never too old to learn biggrin.gif
onnaj
Update time with better pix smile.gif

Have been really busy with washing the head again and again. After it was time for grinding the valves. Yes, there still was some time left smile.gif What i've done then? What you think of cleaning the intake and exhaust ports with a dremel and a little wire brush. My girlfriend still wasn't home so what i did next what getting started with polishing (not porting) the exhaust side of the head. I don't think it will give me loads of HP, but the air will flow better and get the heat out of it a bit quicker. The inlet i won't touch. The inlet ports are pretty smooth already from the valve guides till the combustion chamber. Only flow that could do a bit better will be the flow from the throttle bodies to the valve guides. If that has any advantage? I don't know. Opinions vary about that, so i'm sticking with the exhaust side.

But again, photo's will tell the story biggrin.gif

For your memory, the uncleaned head:


Cleaned head:




Grinded valve:


Not grinded valve:


Uncleaned combustion chamber and in/exhaust but grinded valva:


Cleaend and 1st polish of combustion chamber:


Cleaned and polished exhaust port




Ow forgot, the cam cover is also clean again and will be sprayed very soon:



onnaj
That was yesterday news to be honest. But i wanted to keep the posting complete so i had to post that first wink.gif

I wasn't really satisfied with the polishing yet, so i bought another dremel tool to finish it. I must admist, i like the results. This looks quite a bit better then yesterday. Took also a lot of time!

Some extra pictures (photos has been shot with my Sony HX5V cam, i'm very satisfied with it! wink.gif)










Combustion chamber (inlet unpolished, exhaust side polished)
b22ri22an
porting and polishing my 5sfe head made a big difference in throttle response and a decent power upgrade... i dont have any truthful numbers however the "butt" dyno says more power not alot but definitely more.
onnaj
QUOTE (b22ri22an @ Apr 14, 2013 - 10:50 AM) *
porting and polishing my 5sfe head made a big difference in throttle response and a decent power upgrade... i dont have any truthful numbers however the "butt" dyno says more power not alot but definitely more.


every HP is welcome. And since the head is off why don't grab it! tongue.gif

onnaj
Time for another update:

Have been busy a lot with with installing the valves en valve stem steals. How stupid could i be, trying to put the seals completely to the bottom of the valve guide :S. Should have read better before. Killed 6 of them and i have to remove the rest of the valves to check the other seals. When comparing how easily the valves could go in and out, i spotted a little rip/tear in one of the seals. When checking 2 other seals i spotted the same problem frown.gif. This is really expensive teaching money, but learned a lot.
Wow and how difficult the valve retainer locks wil go in position. This took my a LOT of time. And worst is that because of the seals i can do it all over again frown.gif

Good news? Yes, i picked the stock airbox and exhaust header up from the powder coating. They really look as new, or maybe even better then new biggrin.gif I'm really happy with that and it's worth every penny!

Because i had to wait on the new valve seals i went ahead with the throttle body. I removed the injectors and changed them for some i had ultrasonic cleaned before. Changed the o-rings and vibration insulators for new one's and (pre-)mounted the brackets.

Here are the pictures:

Powder coated airbox:




Powder coated header:


Cleaned injectors:


Throttle body with painted brackets:
celica74
how much fun did you have porting? this is how i felt after mine rolleyes.gif with my build, all i did to the head was port and radius cut the valves and a 30 degree backcut. Pretty sure it made a hell of a difference. Head work is %60 of your power. nice work.
onnaj
QUOTE (celica74 @ Apr 18, 2013 - 2:37 AM) *
how much fun did you have porting? this is how i felt after mine rolleyes.gif with my build, all i did to the head was port and radius cut the valves and a 30 degree backcut. Pretty sure it made a hell of a difference. Head work is %60 of your power. nice work.


The porting was really fun to do. You can see literally see and feel the difference. The head work is now done. Going to bring it to the rebuild shop today to do a leak test. When that's okay i'll be mounting the head on the block this evening or tomorrow and then i'll be able to mount the cams, cam bridge, bearings etc.

We've also get all the paint of the cam cover and today it'll be painted in black again. It's getting better and better, i can't wait to have this engine in!

This is the assembled head:



onnaj
Yes i'm happy!! Today the engine head was vaccuum leak tested and it was perfect! Not bad for my first valve grinding job smile.gif Have to note that the valves weren;t that bad though wink.gif But still i'm very pleased with it. Now i can continue working on the engine!

So updates will be there soon!:)
onnaj
Updating time!

Yesterday i've managed to mount the oil filter bracket and the oil filter first. After that ive mounted a new headgasket and reinstalled the cams. I was a bit afraid of installing them because they were up a little on the end. Asked about this at the rebuild shop but they say it is absolutely normal. There's no point where the cams don't touch the valve lifters. Just ensure that the crankcase pulley is at TDC and the dots on the cams are alligned properly. To be 100% sure it was advisable to turn the crankcase about 25-30 degrees counterclockwise. Then all the pistons would be halfway, so hitting the pistons with the valves would be impossible. So we've mounted them in multiple passes and very secure. So not thighten them to hard right away.
Also i've installed the water outlet and inlet and some small things. I wanted to mount a new thermostat but the new one differs a lot from the old one. Have to ask if that won't be a problem.
Hopefully tomorrow i'm going to check the valve clearance, put the new hydraulic tensioner on and install the cam cover.

Anyways, here are some pictures:

New headgasket on the block:


Marked the headbolts to ensure toquing @ the good patern:


Used some hulp for the toquing to turn them 90 degress twice wink.gif:


Notice the white mark on the head bolts. I did this to ensure i would turn them exactly 180 degrees in total:


Mounted cams:




Oil filter and bracket with new seals:


Thermostat difference (new one is not a genuine btw):



cjh4l22
why you no c160?!
TheCreatorOf
QUOTE (onnaj @ Apr 15, 2013 - 3:36 PM) *
Time for another update:

Have been busy a lot with with installing the valves en valve stem steals. How stupid could i be, trying to put the seals completely to the bottom of the valve guide :S. Should have read better before. Killed 6 of them and i have to remove the rest of the valves to check the other seals. When comparing how easily the valves could go in and out, i spotted a little rip/tear in one of the seals. When checking 2 other seals i spotted the same problem frown.gif. This is really expensive teaching money, but learned a lot.
Wow and how difficult the valve retainer locks wil go in position. This took my a LOT of time. And worst is that because of the seals i can do it all over again frown.gif

Good news? Yes, i picked the stock airbox and exhaust header up from the powder coating. They really look as new, or maybe even better then new biggrin.gif I'm really happy with that and it's worth every penny!

Because i had to wait on the new valve seals i went ahead with the throttle body. I removed the injectors and changed them for some i had ultrasonic cleaned before. Changed the o-rings and vibration insulators for new one's and (pre-)mounted the brackets.

Here are the pictures:

Powder coated airbox:




Powder coated header:


Cleaned injectors:


Throttle body with painted brackets:


UHHHH Gloss black engine parts!? im drooling!, so tempting since ive done so much gloss black around the car, I need to get into that engine bay lol
Legen-dary
Um yeah, gloss black engine parts can look really good!
onnaj
So has been a long time since the last updates but the engine is in for a week or 2 now!

I had to grab the power steering lines from a 4EFE Corolla and also took the reservoir of it. I used a part from the OEM power steering line from the Blacktop (it was ofcourse cut! frown.gif) and let a hydraulic company press it together with the Corolla power steering line. Its a great fit, you can see in the pictures below.

For the throttle cable i grabbed a cable from a 93-er Celica 5SFE from Rockauto. It's a bit long but besides that it's a nice fit. We've made an adapter plate for the throttle bracket so it cannot move.

For the igniter we've also made an adapter plate so that's also a nice fit. Going to paint it black later this week, so that it's completely finished! biggrin.gif

At the first startup we had 4 codes or so. IAT (not connected), MAP, TPS and some code i don't remember. After three double check the vacuum lines and connecting the IAT all the codes were gone except for the TPS code, 41.

And that one wouldnít go away. Iíve bought a new tps, asjusted it with Blacktop manual, but still the code. It made me go crazy. Then iíve decided to meausure the voltage at the ECU of the VTA and E2 connectors. They voltages should be around 0.3V @ idle and about 4.7V @ WOT. Iíve meausured 4.7 @ idle and 0.00V @ WOT. Hey thatís strange i thougt, look like itís upside down or so. Double checked the manual if i mounted the sensor upside down, but i didnít.
So later that evening i had a sudden inspiration. I remembered using the TPS connector from the 7AFE while that one is exactly the same. So i thought: are those pins located at the same position as the one of the 4AGE TPS??? So i went to bed and first thing in the morning was grabbing the manual and walk to the car. And YES!!!! found the problem! Theyíre located in the opposite way. So iíve repinned the connector and gone is the code biggrin.gif

The engine runs a lot smoother now! Still running too rich, cause i can smell the fuel and hear some little backfires now and then. Also the starts are a bit difficult now and then. It seems to run on 3 cylinders for a second and then it runs fine.
Have to sort out whatís causing this. Maybe the O2 sensor had a hard time after the first starts with all the oil and residues of the painted parts wink.gif Have to check this out later on.

Also the valves are ticking a bit. But they were about 0.01-0.02 mm out of specÖmeaning too loose. Iíve didnít buy new shims while mostly the valves are tighten up after a few thousand km. So hopefully thatíll go away or otherwise i have to re-adjust them.

So the pictures:

New harness made by myself biggrin.gif:












Engine compartment:


power steering lines and reservoir:

SwissFerdi
Gefeliciteerd, gaaf.
onnaj
Danku! bowdown.gif
cheela
awesome work! glad you figured everything out.
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