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6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > Engine/Transmission/Maintenance
Smaay
Ok this is how I did it, some steps can be done in different orders. This is for information only and I am not responsible for any oops on your part.


Lets get started

Here is your engine bay, First remove the hood. Unplug the water line for the squirters and remove the (2) 12mm bolts on each side of the hood.









Jack the front of the car up and drain the oil.



Remove the battery







Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the cruise control actuator.



remove the plastic cover



Using 14mm wrenches, loosen the nuts securing the throttle cable





Unplug the cruise actuator



Now with the actuator in your hands, rotate the cable to remove it from the actuator



Unplug the radiator fans



Under the radiator, unscrew the plastic drain cock and let coolant pour out into a bucket



Unplug the Radiator temp sensor



Remove the radiator hoses









remove the (2) radiator clamps, each held in with a 12mm bolt



Unplug the other fan plug



Lift out the radiator





drain the transmission fluid, remove this bolt, its a 24mm



While that's draining, remove the stock airbox, first remove the snap clamps and the spiral clamp around the intake hose.



there are (3) 10mm bolts holding the airbox in. 2 are inside the box and the last one is outside by the fuel filter.







Remove this grounding cable, there are (2) 10mm bolts here and a single 12mm bolt on the transmission right next to the reverse switch





remove the fuse box cover



Push in the tabs to lift up the junction box (what i call it)





Unplug the harness from both sides. the white plug is a typical plug, push in the tab and lift. the large connector you have to push in the tab and rotate the lock down.







Unplug the igniter and resistor box



remove the diagnostic box





This is the EVAP purge VSV, I believe this is only on 99 Celicas. unplug it if you have it, follow the hose up to the intake manifold and unplug that too.



Loosen the other spiral clamp on the hose at the throttle body. its a 10mm head with a phillips screwdriver so either will work





This is the return fuel line, remove that and remove the fuel feed line at the filter. Its the 17mm Banjo bolt on the filter right next to the EVAP VSV



This is the MAP sensor, unplug it



This is the harness going through the firewall to the ECU. its held in by (2) 10mm nuts.



This line feeds the brake booster you can remove it from either side or both and just get it out of the way



This is a vapor filter for the MAP sensor. be careful removing the hose. you don't want to break off the nipple



Remove the passenger side foot trim. this will make it easier to pull the harness through and easier to get to the AC plug







This is the AC plug, don't forget to unplug it.



I forgot to mention these, remove the small clip to free the shifter cables, then use large pliers to get out the C clips that hold the cables in place.





Back to the ECU, unplug the ECU, Circuit Opening Relay, and the body harness.





Carefully lift out the harness



Ok lets get the alternator out of the way. First loosen the pivot bolt.



Remove the sideways bolt, that clamps the alternator in place, then take out the long tightening bolt.



remove the electrical connections







Alternator removed, Now lets get the AC compressor out of the way. First unplug it





There are (3) long 12mm bolts holding the compressor to the block. remove those and let the compressor down out of the way.









Not too much is left, by now the transmission should be drained, if you haven't done so already, put the drain plug back in. Now take off the wheels.







Remove the cotter pin and nut cover.





Stick a screwdriver in the rotor and brake caliper. this will hold it in place while removing the 30mm axle nut





Remove the ABS sensor if you have one, unclip the harness and get it out of the way





Remove the brake caliper. there are (2) 14mm bolts on the backside. once those are out remove the brake pads.



Smack the axle with a dead blow hammer. this will knock it out of the hub



Remove the (2) 19mm bolts from the hub to strut. pull the hub away and the axle will be free



With a friend holding the axle straight and rotating it, use a pry bar on the CV housing at the transmission and pop out the axle. It will come, you just need to find the sweet spot.







The passenger side is easier, remove the (2) 14mm bolts from the axle bearing carrier and the axle will slide right out



Spray some penetrating oil on the exhaust bolts. let that sit for a while and then remove the 3 bunts holding the downpipe to the header.



Remove the locking bolt on the power steering pump.



I should have circled it, loosen the pivot bolt on top of the power steering bolt, if you can get it out here, that's awesome, I had to jack the engine up to get clearance.



Here is another pic of the fuel return line unplugged and the feed line. if you haven't done so, remove them now.





Remove the 2 water lines for the heater.





Its hard to see here, but looking in through the drivers side wheel area, this is the rear engine mount bolt. its in the shadows. If its hard to get out, come back to it after removing the front mount. rock the engine and you should be able to pull it out.



Remove the Front engine mount, its a 17mm bolt through the mount. then remove the (2) 14mm bolts on the bottom. lift out the mount. then remove the bracket from the transmission.



Now get your hoist ready and hook up.



Remove the starter, first the 12mm nut for the hot feed, then the ground plug. there are (2) 14mm bolts on each side holding it on the transmission.



Unplug the reverse switch to get it out of the way.



Now free the slave cylinder. remove the 10mm bolt securing the hard line, the (2) 12mm bolts on the slave and the 10mm bolt in front of the transmission







Remove the drivers side engine mount. its a 14mm long bolt and (2) 14mm nuts and a short bolt. then remove the bracket from the transmission. Those are 14mm also







Remove the passenger side engine mount.











Start to lift the engine, here you can see the power steering bolt that gave me trouble. now you can pull it out and set the power steering pump aside



And out it comes







And finally the MONEY SHOT

Smaay
Here is a preview of whats to come





richee3
Great writeup! I'm surprised in all the years this forum has been around and the countless engine swaps done that this has never been made before.
H8TRAIN
Killer documentation. Thanks for taking the time, Smaay!

I just did this for the first time myself. With these pics an instructions it would have been easier no doubt.
celicakitten
Money shot...ummm yeah sure, that works too wink.gif

QUOTE (Smaay @ Dec 10, 2013 - 1:15 AM) *
Here is a preview of whats to come








Thanks for working so hard on this! I'm excited I get to learn so much in this project!
njccmd2002
yup, great documentation. Everything was covered. So we need to sticky this. good job. Interesting way to remove the axle bolt. I used to put the wheel back and lower it. but it takes longer.
mi645
I am impressed thanks for covering the part I forgot to mention lol
Syaoran
Great write up.

That turbo manifold.... I am interdasted smile.gif Who made it?
cardshark525
Fantastic write up. It's EXTREMELY helpful when things are pointed out and done step by step as you did here.

As for money shot... mine was in the background. thumbsup.gif

Supra has always and will always be my favorite car. Has been since I was 8 years old living in NYC and saw one drive by. Didn't know what it even was until I saw another after I had moved and 6 years had passed.
I'm not allowed to blow most of my recent inheritance on a '98 RSP, wife would kill me and I wouldn't be able to deal with having to sell it down the line... which would happen.

Baby Supra will have to do for now.
PegGTS
QUOTE (Smaay @ Dec 9, 2013 - 11:06 PM) *

Moar of the supra? smile.gif
Smaay
QUOTE (PegGTS @ Dec 10, 2013 - 8:42 PM) *
Moar of the supra? smile.gif



http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...94&hl=supra

PegGTS
QUOTE (Smaay @ Dec 10, 2013 - 11:20 PM) *
QUOTE (PegGTS @ Dec 10, 2013 - 8:42 PM) *
Moar of the supra? smile.gif



http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...94&hl=supra

Oh damn! Niiice
Box
I couldn't help but expect two more cylinders to be going back in. tongue.gif Very nice write-up with lots of information.
celicakitten
QUOTE (Smaay @ Dec 11, 2013 - 12:20 AM) *
QUOTE (PegGTS @ Dec 10, 2013 - 8:42 PM) *
Moar of the supra? smile.gif



http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...94&hl=supra


Next time I'll be sure I'm not "obstructing" the Supra view...or wearing a bikini smh!

QUOTE (Box @ Dec 11, 2013 - 1:08 AM) *
I couldn't help but expect two more cylinders to be going back in. tongue.gif Very nice write-up with lots of information.


Don't worry, the v6 will go in next once I'm done playing with the turbo wink.gif
ILoveMySilly97
QUOTE (cardshark525 @ Dec 10, 2013 - 8:19 PM) *
Baby Supra will have to do for now.


You mean the Pappa Celica has to do for now. The Supra line is based off the Celica. wink.gif
Tigawoods
sweet write up!!!
enderswift
Well done dude
VavAlephVav
You had me at Money Shot.
Smaay
QUOTE (Syaoran @ Dec 10, 2013 - 7:08 PM) *
Great write up.

That turbo manifold.... I am interdasted smile.gif Who made it?



this is the manifold from the kits i made for the 5S. However nobody else bought one since it never got finished. the turbo system is sound, its the tuning that a problem
Syaoran
Oh so that's one of the prototype kits. Nice.

I like the manifold. How much do you sell it for?
Smaay
they take about 6 hours to make, i think i can sell them for about 500 bucks. it will have a lifetime warranty to never crack
Icewata
I am look at turboing my 5s. I see that you live in S. Cal. I live in San Jose. I have done research and I know that all the parts have to be CARB legal in order to pass smog but have you heard of anyone having a CARB legal 5sfte? Thanks in advance!
Smaay
there is no such creature as a CARB turbo kit for the 5S-FE.

When i designed the kit I tried to make it easy to remove and go back to stock for SMOG, then just put it back on.
Icewata
I see, thank you for the quick response.

On another note I see that you have a 3mzfe swap with an E153 Transmission. What year is the 3m? Also would a s54 be able to handle the power of the 3m and does the s54 directly bolt onto the 3m with no mod?
azn87
did u use a oil filter relocation kit?
Smaay
QUOTE (Icewata @ Jan 3, 2014 - 10:36 PM) *
I see, thank you for the quick response.

On another note I see that you have a 3mzfe swap with an E153 Transmission. What year is the 3m? Also would a s54 be able to handle the power of the 3m and does the s54 directly bolt onto the 3m with no mod?


its a 2005 Sienna engine. yes the S54 will bolt up to the 3MZ, you will need a hybrid clutch that Southbend does keep in stock. just call them up and talk to John or Andy and tell them what you need. they will provide it. Yes the S54 will handle the power of the 3MZ, Pressure was making 300HP on a stock S54

QUOTE (azn87 @ Jan 3, 2014 - 11:01 PM) *
did u use a oil filter relocation kit?


no oil relocation
PegGTS
First of all, this thread is super helpful! I'm currently swapping another 5S in and am using this as a guide.

I just have one question. When I'm taking the slave cylinder out, for the first 10mm bolt on the hardline that you need to remove, I assume it's this one you're talking about? If so how did you remove it? I tried using a 10mm wrench on it but it didn't want to come off and I was just rounding it.

richee3
You can actually remove that horseshoe clip and leave the slave cylinder still attached to the clutch line, still in the car. No need to bleed it later! Crappy picture but here's my slave cylinder, still on the end of the clutch lime, sitting on my strut tower.





And another time with the engine pulled, this time the slave cylinder is sitting on the windshield wiper cowl.




Smaay
QUOTE (PegGTS @ Aug 13, 2015 - 10:05 AM) *
First of all, this thread is super helpful! I'm currently swapping another 5S in and am using this as a guide.

I just have one question. When I'm taking the slave cylinder out, for the first 10mm bolt on the hardline that you need to remove, I assume it's this one you're talking about? If so how did you remove it? I tried using a 10mm wrench on it but it didn't want to come off and I was just rounding it.




not that one. its the bolt holding that bracket to the trans. its already gone in that pic. dont open the hydro system.
PegGTS
Ah alright so it's a 14mm then. I read 10mm and was trying to figure out just what you were talking about lol. I was still having trouble getting a socket on that bolt though since the hardline was in the way.
doory100
Is it necessary to drain the tranny oil? will it spill out the axle housing if you don't drain it? I just put new fluid in when i did the clutch. that stuff is pricey!!
richee3
Yeah, it'll drain out of the axle holes.
doory100
How do you get the shifter cables off? Never mind I got it.
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