well i've started what most people dont have time for. I'm in the middle of building my 5sgte and Rwd conversion,
I have a couple pictures to start with. If you have any question, just ask.









I'm using a 88 toyota truck rear end 2wd. This rear end is harder to find, because it uses the 8 inch center section. And that comes with 30 spline axles. I'm not using the third member. I went with a toyota v-6 4x4 3rd member, that will allow you to buy a supra lsd that will bolt into the v-6 housing. I'm going to be using the stock v-6 gears that comes with 4.10 gears, It may be a little high, but i'll run those for a little bit. Also when i have the lsd out, i'm install a WEIR MAXGRIP LSD Kits
It increases the locking force of the clutches. So i'll be posting pictures as i go.

Fitting the engine and transmission, Dont worry, this is not the block i'll be using, lol. this one has a hole in the side of the block

I'll be using a 1990 ford mustang rack and pinion, because, they use front steering racks.

looking forward to this build, awesome work thus far!

Wow, that's awesome!!!

Should be awesome. Definitely going to watch this thread.

At least she'll have a low center of gravity

Enjoy!

if you're using the 5sfe block, what transmission do you plan on using?!

subscribed!

I'm using a 1990 Toyota pickup 5speed v-6. All the bolts line up but 1. So I had 1 bolt hole relocated and welded into place while it was bolted to the block.

i believe that is an R154 transmission or is it the W58?

R154 was in the Supra Turbo, W58 was in the non turbo Supra. If I had to take a guess W58.

Nice. A 5sgte that's something uncommon and especially a rwd conversion. This is going to be unique build.

W58 requires a 2s bell housing to mount to the 5s/3s block?
Would love to know exactly what is being used.

I'm interested in this ordeal

this is finally happening. RWD conversion... YAY

like to see pics of the mounting of the rear axle. SweeT..

The transmission is very close to a r154. The transmission is a r150. still just a strong as the supra transmission. It just has different gearing.

I'll be getting some pictures of the rear end suspension set up soon, I used most of a toyota previa van rear suspension.

NICE! pictures of rear from underneath?

Now this is something I might have to do in the far future....
Looking forward to see more pictures!

Heres a picture of the suspension, Not very bright. I'll have more later.

If you're going through all that effort, why stick with the 4-Cyl,. my future RWD project is hoping to be a Straight Six, or a full V8, not that I won't be watching like crazy to see how yours turns out!

Keep the pics coming, I'm super excited to see this.

This 4 cylinder that i'm building will be lighter than a 6 cylinder. And i'm building a 5sgte, I plan on making 400-500hp with this engine.

Very cool stuff. Will this be a DD, track car, drag car?

Judging by the fatties on the rear, drag.


Well, the I4 is the most compact package. I6 is too long, and most V8's are too wide. If you want to go with one of those engines there are better cars to do it with, all of them already RWD.

This car will be DD and drag racing.

When it was FWD, I drove it as DD and also drag raced it.

My fastest 1/4 mile time was 12.91 sec

Heres some more pictures, with the engine all cleared of the firewall.

I'm going to keep the engine tilted, as how it was like when it was in the fwd version.









Here is the transmission mounted up. You can see that the transmission is tilted also, but not to bad of a angle, I'll probly end up over filling the transmission a little so that the oil gets to all places needed.

I used a 1986 toyota pickup 2wd transmission mount bracket, Its in front of the Angle iron.

AWESOME !

I wonder how such a severe tilt will effect things now that it'll be longitudinal instead of transverse. Seems like you're making good progress fairly quickly. Someone needs to standardize a 5GC/6GC RWD conversion kit.

*Thinks dirty, dirty 2jzgte thoughts*

Heres some pictures of the rear suspension
The suspension isn't done yet, its put together enough so that its rollable,
I still have to have bracing done on the link mounts.

Now heres some pictures of the steering and engine mounts.
This is a 1990 ford mustang rack and pinion, Its the quick ratio. 2.5 turns lock to lock. I also had used the mustang outter tie rod ends, With those joints, i had to use a balljoint reamer to enlarge the hole to the mustang outter tie rod size.

Also if you have noticed, I had to switch the knucles. The left is on the right and right on left. They bolted right up.

Its looking good. You want to do mines after yours is completed?

Ya i can do yours next. Just get a hold of me when your ready.

I can't wait to see the final product. I've been holding onto my celi for a future rwd set up. one day I will have a driftable 6GC... Good luck OP!!

Wow. I don't know what the heck I'm looking at but I'm drooling!

one questions, those tie rods will be under pressure once the wheels touch ground, and the weight of the engine. would it not be better to connect from bottom than top? Right now, they are at an angle, which will be worse on the road...

I have to say I'm very intrigued by what you are doing here. I always wondered what a R&D celica would be like . Just a few questions for you. How feasible would it be to do this with a 1or 3mz?, would it be the same principle as a V6 swap is now? And also if you are willing to help others with theirs how like ly is it that you would make a kit. Pretty cut subframes mount etc. So that all someone would have to do would be buy the parts and install.
This is probably one of the coolest thing I've seen go down on this site so far
I wish you the best of luck with the rest of the build and hope it works out well for you
I can't wait to see the final product.

[quote name='njccmd2002' date='Apr 20, 2014 - 7:57 AM' post='1044549']
one questions, those tie rods will be under pressure once the wheels touch ground, and the weight of the engine. would it not be better to connect from bottom than top? Right now, they are at an angle, which will be worse on the road...
[/quote

Yup, I've already been thinking of that. But i'm going to put it togetter first and drive and feel what its like first.
I couldn't do bottom tapper because they are factory top tapper.

But if worse comes to worse I'll be intalling a bump steer kit that they sell for the mustangs, I'll be using a rod end and drill out the tapper and use a thru bolt .

Sweet.

I was planning on doing somethin like this to a celica. When you have some time, can tell us all the custom welding you had to do

Getting closer. Got the struts mounted, so that it will sit down on its own weight.

I'm using 1997 honda civic rear struts. I went with these because, there compact spring/ strut assembly.

I dont know if this is the same pictures as from before, but the heck, the more pictures the better.

Steering mounted.

the R154 must have been in the MKIII because the MKIV non turbo got the W58

With all that work you are doing, why on earth are you using a 5S-FE? wouldnt a V6 or 3S-GTE be more satisfying?

From what I understand he's just using the 5s block (not a 5sfe), and the gte head. Which is the same build I'm looking to build, which can be built up much easier to handle more power than the 3s block.
Not to say you can't build up a 3sgte the same, its just makes more sense to do a 5sgte if you are going for such high HP goals, and he obviously doesn't care about building something custom, which is part of the issue most people run into and why they stick with a 3sgte

You must of not read anything i posted, I'm doing a stroker version of a 3sgte, so instead of a 2.0L engine, its going to be a 2.2L engine. You take a 2.2 camry block and use the 3sgte cylinder head.

And also I dont know how you came up with a w-58 tranny that i'm using. I wrote on the 1st page that i'm using a toyota pickup transmission out of a v-6 2wd, they come with a r-150 tranny, its just about the same trans as the supra, except 1st and 2nd gear ratio is different, and 5th is different, but overall just as strong as the supra tranny, because its in the same R family trans.

no i dont read everything, i dont need to read 3 word responses like looks good man.

Franken-build progressing nicely.

A rwd 6gc running a 5sgte with a Toyota pickup tranny and Honda suspension... fantastic.

Every part has a specific purpose and I guess sourcing items already made (albeit from a random collection of cars) beats having to pay for custom created parts from an aftermarket manufacturer specific to the build you're going for.

Just avoid the VW electrical system

i'll be uploading more updates tomorrow of my progress. Its coming along.

Well was almost done, had the complet dash inside the car doing transmission tunnel work, and caught the car on fire, damit. I have a new dash and wiring harness from another car. But heres some more pictures






Heres some bracing of the links

Im far from being an expert, and Im having difficulty figuring out how to word this correctly, but I think the rack has to be the exact same width as the celica rack. Bump steer will occur if the tie-rod length is any different from oem. The problem is that the as the wheel spindle travels up and down through the suspension stroke, the distance from the hub to the centerline of the vehicle fluctuates as does the camber. The tierod length is designed so that it is proportional to the length of the control arm in relation to its proximity to the strut mount. If the tierod is to long or short, it will force the wheels toe-in or toe-out as the suspension travels.

Hopefully this crappy pictures make more sense. With struts the steering axis and "line 2" would intersect at the strut mount because we dont have the upper control arm.

Here some more progress pictures, motor mounts / transmission mounts are done, steering some what done, I did end up odering the mustang bump steer kit that will correct the had tie rod angles.


















[quote name='Special_Edy' date='May 12, 2014 - 3:09 PM' post='1046370']
Im far from being an expert, and Im having difficulty figuring out how to word this correctly, but I think the rack has to be the exact same width as the celica rack. Bump steer will occur if the tie-rod length is any different from oem. The problem is that the as the wheel spindle travels up and down through the suspension stroke, the distance from the hub to the centerline of the vehicle fluctuates as does the camber. The tierod length is designed so that it is proportional to the length of the control arm in relation to its proximity to the strut mount. If the tierod is to long or short, it will force the wheels toe-in or toe-out as the suspension travels.




The mustang rack and tie rods are the correct lenght. Also the mustang tie rods have a ton of adjustment room.

wow this is significant progress.