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richee3
Speaking of the Deuce, she started tonight. Still have a few things to sort out but she runs! Even drove it a few feet just because I could.
Box
QUOTE (SwissFerdi @ Sep 1, 2016 - 7:24 PM) *
QUOTE (Box @ Sep 1, 2016 - 12:32 AM) *
Richee and Ferdi remind me I want a SW20 MR2 or a NA8 Miata to go along with the Firebird, I like all kinds of cars and part of me misses having a smaller Japanese car.


I usually shut up in regards to your car choices but no, you don't want another Miata. You didn't like your first one and primarily, you don't like convertibles, and the Miata is not a good car for top-up only. The Deuce or a Z would be a much better choice for you.

I wish this rain would let up so I can drive mine.

I think the Miata deserves a second chance though, in retrospect the bulk of my issues were with how that particular car was optioned and using it as a daily driver never dropping the top. The NA8 or a NB I know I'd like more, but yeah a MR2 or Z car would probably make for a better fit. Actually one of the Roadster Coupes would be my ideal Miata but we can't get them over here sadly.

QUOTE (richee3 @ Sep 1, 2016 - 7:58 PM) *
Speaking of the Deuce, she started tonight. Still have a few things to sort out but she runs! Even drove it a few feet just because I could.

IT'S ALIVE!!!!! *lightning strikes*
cheela
QUOTE (richee3 @ Sep 1, 2016 - 7:58 PM) *
Speaking of the Deuce, she started tonight. Still have a few things to sort out but she runs! Even drove it a few feet just because I could.


so 1mz or 2gr swap? lol
Box
That's part of why I want a SW20 so much, it'd be a lot of fun with an 1MZ or 2GR. That or a LS swapped '88 Fiero GT, gahhhhh damn it GM stop distracting me. I wonder if you can cram a UZ series motor into the MR2. tongue.gif
Box
Apparently some have done a UZ swap, I imagine it's probably a bigger pain than LS swapping a Fiero.

Anyhow the relays and fuse holders arrived, the shifter stick is coming from Tennessee and the wiring is coming from Florida so I imagine they'll get here sometime early next week.
richee3
QUOTE (cheela @ Sep 1, 2016 - 10:35 PM) *
so 1mz or 2gr swap? lol

Nah, it's going to stay a 5S car. It's got some pretty nasty rust so it's limited to just being a toy. It should have already been a parts car but the new owner wanted it saved. Best case scenario, it becomes an autocross toy.
Bitter
Cosmetic rust only I hope? I saw a SW20 in the shop with some serious structural rust around the engine room bulkhead area near where the braces bolt to, one or two braces were totally rotten through at the rear of the car and one was just hanging in the air, the frame it was supposed to be bolted to was gone completely.
Box
Have to love those salted roads. Seriously though it's a miracle somebody wasn't killed by it.

Well checked tracking and the shifter stick and wiring departed the post office in Birmingham this afternoon so that means they'll get here tomorrow afternoon, woooo stuff to do. I was looking at the car again earlier and I really dread routing wiring, so much dread...
1994Celica
Maybe the front half is the only part that's rusted and then you could chop the back half off and attach it to the front of a 6gc and make a twin engined all wheel drive car. Make a mk2 version of this
http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-goodba...ota-mr2corolla/
Box
That or a 5th gen front might flow better with the SW20 MR2 rear. At first I was wondering how two gear shifters and clutches would pan out, but I see they did automatic for the MR2 portion. If anything having automatic up front and then manual in the rear would probably pan out better. That or ideally if you had two S54 transmissions with the same gear set and final, then figuring out clutch wouldn't be too bad since they're hydraulic but then it'd be a matter of the gear selectors which I'd imagine something could be fabricated so they work in sync.
Bitter
I missed some spots when I spray painted the brackets, just went to look at them and decided a 2nd coat was needed, I'll let them air dry over night then accelerate it in the oven in the morning before installing the lights. I think I forgot to grab some weather proof connectors too....shoot.
Box
Woo new fog lights almost ready to go. I still need to sit down and waste more time than I should looking for some fog/driving lights that'll fit. Which the new harness might make a big enough improvement I may not really need to add more lights, especially since being buried into the bumper light really won't make it out to the sides where I need it anyway.

Speaking of weather proof connectors I made a run to Hell Mart since the wiring is arriving earlier than expected, didn't want to do it in the afternoon since that'd mean trying to route wiring with a hot engine bay. $4 tax included for 25 3M brand insulated 10-12 AWG splice connectors so not bad, between the relay kit and ceramic H4 plugs I bought when I did the conversion I'm ready to go once the wiring arrives.
richee3
QUOTE (Bitter @ Sep 2, 2016 - 8:57 PM) *
Cosmetic rust only I hope? I saw a SW20 in the shop with some serious structural rust around the engine room bulkhead area near where the braces bolt to, one or two braces were totally rotten through at the rear of the car and one was just hanging in the air, the frame it was supposed to be bolted to was gone completely.

It does go a little farther than cosmetic rust. The braces are completely gone on both sides, but the bolts and mount points are intact. The top of the radiator looks a little sketchy. Rust on all the suspension bits but nothing that needs immediate attention until we get some miles on the car and determine whether we will keep it as a toy or sell it.
Bitter
QUOTE (Box @ Sep 3, 2016 - 2:41 AM) *
Woo new fog lights almost ready to go. I still need to sit down and waste more time than I should looking for some fog/driving lights that'll fit. Which the new harness might make a big enough improvement I may not really need to add more lights, especially since being buried into the bumper light really won't make it out to the sides where I need it anyway.

Speaking of weather proof connectors I made a run to Hell Mart since the wiring is arriving earlier than expected, didn't want to do it in the afternoon since that'd mean trying to route wiring with a hot engine bay. $4 tax included for 25 3M brand insulated 10-12 AWG splice connectors so not bad, between the relay kit and ceramic H4 plugs I bought when I did the conversion I'm ready to go once the wiring arrives.

You might be surprised, with projector lights the focal point can be set far away from the lens so they do spread out even though they're buried with plastic on the sides. Try out the longer of the projector fogs I linked, they look like H3 clones of the infamous and OEM for many GM vehicles 'Blazer' fog lights. Using a H3 bulb vs the 880/884 is nice since H3's are much cheaper and come in colors more readily than those weird GM spec bulbs do.
Box
These I guess? http://www.ebay.com/itm/361457918064?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I thought they looked like they might fit, but I'll have to sit down and measure things out. But yeah turning onto any road at night is slightly unnerving just because I really can't see since all the light is going straight out. Waiting on USPS at the moment to deliver stuff.
Bitter
Worth a shot at that price for sure, but if you can find REAL blazer fogs they're pretty darn good, but sadly not made anymore so hard to find and expensive when you do! Those look similar enough that they probably perform about the same. They were my 2nd choice, you could set them at a slight outward angle to light the shoulders more. Just tap the power for the relay off the headlights and then use a switch for ground so they'll turn on with the low beams but off when high beams are on like OEM would do and still give you manual on/off control AND be unable to be accidentally left on (unless you left your headlights on too).
richee3
Took the SW21 for the first drive today. Went about 100 feet! woot.gif I found one small coolant leak and the alternator belt mandated to flip itself inside out, despite the fact that I fixed it just prior to driving it. Coolant is almost completely filled and burped. Brakes need a little more work, as the rotors are rusty and the pads won't grab (hence my 100' drive.) But most importantly, I discovered the car was too dirty to be able to see out of so I gave it a quick bath.


Bitter
Measure twice, cut once, or at least ****ing look at what you're making a bracket for.

Both fog light brackets I made won't work. The back of the plastic bumper bar I'm bolting to isn't flat like | it's shaped like [ so there's an area of plastic, a gap, and an area of plastic. My brackets will put one bolt on the edge of the lower area and the other bolt in the air. So I just whipped out two new ones with my remaining steel bar and now need to go out and get a drill bit to punch the larger hole for the fog light bolt....then paint again. Kind of don't even want to paint them but I know they'll rust up pretty fast and that'll bother me even though I never see them.
Box
I'll try and find some of the real ones but the eBay ones look pretty good for the money. That was also part of my reasoning on using 12 AWG so I could easily add fog/driving lights. Speaking of the wiring and shift stick arrived, the wiring looks great and I honestly don't know how they're selling 25 feet of copper 12/3 for $12.50 shipped. I guess it must be old stock, it's seriously tempting to buy a couple hundred feet to stockpile. Which for once something was faster than what it was said it'd take, maybe 5-10 minutes to change the shifter stick out and that was with taking pictures I'm about to upload to the project thread then it's back out to do the wiring.

QUOTE (Bitter @ Sep 3, 2016 - 3:19 PM) *
Measure twice, cut once, or at least ****ing look at what you're making a bracket for.

Both fog light brackets I made won't work. The back of the plastic bumper bar I'm bolting to isn't flat like | it's shaped like [ so there's an area of plastic, a gap, and an area of plastic. My brackets will put one bolt on the edge of the lower area and the other bolt in the air. So I just whipped out two new ones with my remaining steel bar and now need to go out and get a drill bit to punch the larger hole for the fog light bolt....then paint again. Kind of don't even want to paint them but I know they'll rust up pretty fast and that'll bother me even though I never see them.

That bites, it's always something.
Bitter
Brackets were painted, not as nicely as the first set but they're literally invisible unless you stick your head under the bumper and shove it up in there for who gives a rip. I got one side installed to make sure it fits right and it does, I'm going to set the other one in place and mark the pilot holes to drill and do that tomorrow on lunch since twirling a drill bit by hand is getting old real fast, the plastic is too thick and tough for the screws to go into on their own!

The light sits in the right spot, it looks nice, the little rubber boot really classes it up and hides the hinge mount thingy and wires nicely, I need to replace the connections with fresh ones though as one looks like it got toasty at some point. I'll get pictures when it's done but it looks kind of 80's retro with the rectangle fogs, I dig it.
Box
I have to stop myself at times like that, my OCD kicks in for crap that'll never see the light of day again. I love the 80's, at times I think I'm the only one that still likes two toning. laugh.gif
Batman722
Nice job Daniel.
richee3
QUOTE (Batman722 @ Sep 5, 2016 - 9:46 PM) *
Nice job Daniel.

I can't do it anywhere near as fast as you guys and I wouldn't dream of putting a 2GR in the back of an MR2. I'm still playing catchup with you guys. wink.gif
Bitter
Will the 2 just be a grocery getter or are you trying to do a full rehab?
Box
I think if you were able to take care of the rust for the most part it'd be worth doing a BEAMS or 1MZ swap, since at least from the pictures the rest doesn't really look all that bad with the dent on the driver quarter aside which could be sorted.
richee3
QUOTE (Bitter @ Sep 5, 2016 - 10:17 PM) *
Will the 2 just be a grocery getter or are you trying to do a full rehab?

Definitely not a full rehab. If we fall head over heels for the Deuce, we'll pick a much cleaner one up. This one will be a weekend warrior, maybe the occasional autocross or backroad. There's no fixing the rust without some serious money so this one will remain a toy.


QUOTE (Box @ Sep 5, 2016 - 11:03 PM) *
I think if you were able to take care of the rust for the most part it'd be worth doing a BEAMS or 1MZ swap, since at least from the pictures the rest doesn't really look all that bad with the dent on the driver quarter aside which could be sorted.

If we had convinced the owner to pick up a BEAMS from an MR2, the car would've been on the road months ago. The delays have been from me not wanting to prep the motor to go in the car, as well as a few speed bumps along the way. The owner wants to do a V6 swap in a different shell if all goes well with this car. That's a job for someone else though. The rust is limited to the rocker panels and a few unnecessary bits, nothing terrible, but still more costly and involved than this shell will ever see. The interior is in excellent condition but overall, this should have been a parts car but we brought it back to life.

Still haven't figured out why it's running so rich. But I haven't looked into it that much so there's that.
Bitter
Probably a dead engine coolant temp sensor, might be stuck cold, time to bust out the meter and take some readings! There's no AFM or cold start injector on that 5S as far as I know, the AFM is just for the 3S and cold start injectors were done away with after about 90-92 for most Toyotas.
richee3
It still shouldn't make it run piston-melting, fill the whole neighborhood with smoke that burns the eyes and nose rich. I get the feeling that I've had a blonde moment that I haven't noticed yet and I've overlooked something pretty big.

Here's the video of the first startup. You can see some of the smoke here. I'm definitely missing something pretty big, but haven't even had time to look at the car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8szs-dqAes...eature=youtu.be
Box
Yup probably coolant temp sensor, had one go on my brother's Maxima once and it ran so rich it spit out black smoke and wouldn't want to run worth a damn. $10 or so sensor later and all was well again.
Bitter
It could make it run that rich if it's pegged at -40 or something stupid....

but it could also be a number of other things, thought the ECT is the most common/likely
Bitter
Well put me over a barrel and **** me in the ass....one of my dog light bulbs just burned out driving yesterday.
Box
I guess you mean fog light? That does sound par for course though.
Bitter
Autocorrect can bite my fleshy pale ass.
Box
Figured autocorrect was responsible. laugh.gif Speaking of you promised us a picture. redface.gif
Bitter
Yea, let me take on with a light burned out. laugh.gif


I swapped the bulb for a old but good one that will now likely burn out very soon. I discovered that the lens and reflector are not glued together but sealed with a rubber strip and I can take the light all the way apart. Also found some damage to the reflector bowl inside, looks like the start of some rust in a spot, not a spot that's super critical to beam shape or output as far as I can tell but these lights days are numbered, which is too bad because they're JUST right in terms of size.
Box
Hmm that's odd even with them being older they were still new old stock? Perhaps it's that vacuum form stuff and it's just a production flaw. Either way kinda lame. The company that made my H4 E-codes, Autopal, also makes a variety of fog/driving lights so maybe they'd have something. I was looking at their bulbs and Hella's bulbs earlier today and I can't help but notice the bulbs offered are near identical, that and the Hella stuff is made in India now where Autopal is from. Highly coincidental.
Bitter
Yea, I'll have to measure the dimensions and see if autopal has something similar in size and function for the future. I think those lights I linked that I put on my aunties Capri are autopal.
Box
They were. So far I've been pretty impressed with the headlamps and Autopal, definitely good quality for the money. The Hella headlamps probably are better, and they should since they cost twice as much, but I can't foresee them being twice as good. It'd still be interesting to do a side by side comparison though.
1994Celica
Look what I bought for my wagon

Bumper asshole didn't send me my bumper if refund me. Thankfully I got a refund from PayPal. Ended up buying another one for cheaper
Box
Wooooo gold rims. Also shame to hear on the bumper, at least got PayPal to refund. I hate people. Yay finding a cheaper one though.
1994Celica
Yeah I'm excited for both because both were good deals. Wheels have tires that don't look too bad so I'm going to run with them while buying one tire every so often. The bumper is slightly cracked but fixable so I'll do that. Only bad thing is this bumper doesn't come with fog lights but oh well.
Box
Could probably find an aftermarket fog light or another o.e. that'd fit and be better anyway.
Bitter
I think I'll eventually end up replacing the rectangle fogs with some Hella Micro DE fogs.
Box
They can be yours for the low low price of $124 off Amazon. tongue.gif
Bitter
Summit has the boxed retail kit for $107 and free shipping.
Box
That's not too bad all things considered.

I have been trying to find info from Hella on their bulb's lumen output and expected life but so far not much luck on anything official, their corporate site's layout sucking doesn't help. One retail site I came across showed the standard 60W/55W H4 lasting 175 hours, 100W/80W lasting 100 hours, and the 130W/100W lasting 40 hours. I tried finding some 75W/70W but for some reason the only one Hella has is 24V. I'd like around 1,600-1,800 lumens on low and based on the info on the Daniel Stern site I'd want around 80W so it'd seem like the 100W/80W would be a good blend of life and output. Of course I'd like some official info from Hella, maybe just need to email them.
Bitter
Remember those lumens numbers are at 12.8V and life hours are at 14.2. Euro figures at 13.8 for both are going to be more realistic in your situation.

http://store.candlepower.com/64206.html why not these or these http://store.candlepower.com/4-840.html That'll get you up into the territory of almost too much light.
richee3
Took the MR2 for the first "official" drive a few minutes ago. It's not registered so I didn't go far. All seems to be working well for the most part. Burping the coolant is painstakingly slow and still isn't finished. Tach isn't exactly accurate, as it shows I'm idling at ~300 rpm when I'm realistically about 1,500. Temp gauge doesn't work at all and apparently the alt is pushing 17 volts. I'd say I have a ground issue somewhere. Speedo works just fine though, good old mechanical speedo.
Box
Because you can get Hella bulbs for like $7-8 each shipped off Amazon. tongue.gif Yeah with the new harness I should be getting pretty much 13.8-14.4V or so at the bulbs. I think I'm addicted to light output, this is how most people must feel about horsepower. laugh.gif

The MR2 is a pain to get the air out of the coolant system, here's a good post I found: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/mr2...ling_system.htm
Bitter
Ah, I've not heard much good about Hella bulbs.
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