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navseal345
That's what I always thought/ heard. Start the car for a minute or two before you leave because it's going to warm up faster when you're driving then if it is just sitting there.

I'll have to check on the heated seats.

[EDIT] She has heated seats. I don't know what she is complaining about.
richee3
Our 4Runner takes forever to warm up so I see why she would complain, but if it takes that long to warm up while driving, I feel like a remote start won’t be that helpful. But, as stated before, happy wife, happy life. We are happy with the Viper remote start we have but seldom ever use it, and o do t know how it would work with the immobilizer in the 4Runner. Plus she may want something like Compustar’s Drone Service where she can start it from her phone, but that has a monthly service fee. I think Viper does something similar but I don’t remember what it’s called. I just know that I’ve heard anything Directed Electronics (who owns Viper) is supposed to be good.
Bitter
If it's not warming up fast you need to look at the thermostat (opening early or partly open) or restrict airflow over the radiator in winter. I did that with my Geo and Mazda with some cardboard and it helped noticeably on the coldest of days. Heck, with the 195 stat in the Mazda it doesn't even open or stay open on real cold days. I can park after driving on the highway for 20 minutes and my radiator is still cold, it has to sit at idle with no air flow to get the radiator hot and thermostat opened up. The Mazda gets cooking hot 140 degree heat rolling from the vents on the highway which is nice, and with the thermal/air barrier installed in the front doors there's no cold air blowing up through the door panel switches or around the edges at highway speeds, the cabin retains heat a little better.

There's lots of small things you can do to really increase the winter comfort. I used FV516 (I think) insulation, it's peel n stick and easy to work with. Low R value but I was after the sealing properties not the insulation properties. The bonus of sealing the door panels like that is that the speakers sound better since there's more separation between back and front sound waves, science and stuff.
Bitter
Amazon refunded me for the engine mount even though it was outside the return period.
Box
I don't see the point in letting the car run for more than 30-60 seconds, since as already mentioned you're just contributing to wear and dumping fuel into the oil. Let it run for about a minute to give time for oil to circulate and then drive it gentle until it's at operating temperature.

As far as the "remote start" goes I think if you could get it to where the heated seats could be turned on from a distance that'd be more beneficial, say give it 5 minutes to pre warm the seats so not enough to really draw on the battery but enough time for it to warm up.
ClevelandGaint
My 00 4runner take about 15 minutes to warm up, but I don't mind it since I have heated seats. If I were to drive the sc400, takes maybe 4 minutes to heat up. The 3s swap takes about 10 mins to get warm inside but I need to replace the blower motor soon
Bitter
I can have my Mazda at operating temp with 75 degree air from the vents in about a 1/2 mile where I get on the highway ramp after it's sat in my garage over night, but I have an obvious leg up on a car sitting outside. I let it idle for about 30-60 seconds before pulling out of the garage then drive in 2nd gear only till I get to the highway on ramp, and then don't let it get into 4th gear for about a mile on the highway. This gets the engine good n hot in a hurry and gets cabin heat going faster. Also if you can run recirc without fogging windows that'll get the cabin hotter faster too, once they start to fog put it back to fresh air.
richee3
The 4Runner doesn’t take exceptionally long to heat up like anything is wrong with it, but it takes like 10 minutes of light driving where the Celica is like 3-4 minutes and the Supra is about 5. The old ’06 we had was like 37 seconds and it was warm. Yet another way the 4th gen was better than the 5th gen.
Bitter
Wouldn't hurt to verify the thermostat opening temp just to make sure, but I know what you mean. My mom's 10 Mazda 3 2.5 takes a lot longer to get good cabin heat than any of the 3 cars I've owned and most cars I've driven at work. It's to the point where when she offered to basically give me the car cause she had the new car bug I talked her out of it, I mean not just cause the heat sucks but because there's so much new tech coming down the pipes in the next few years buying a new car now that you intend to hang onto for the next 8+ years is a bit silly. I'm pretty keen on that new HCCI engine from Mazda, when I'm ready to buy new I may consider something like a Mazda6, if the heat doesn't suck.
ClevelandGaint
Definitely the 4th gen is better than the 5th gen in every way!! I love my 3rd gen, wouldnt mind getting a 4th gen, but never a 5th, underpowered, feels cheap inside, kinda like 7th gen celica from 00-02 laugh.gif

QUOTE (richee3 @ Dec 10, 2017 - 10:38 PM) *
The 4Runner doesn’t take exceptionally long to heat up like anything is wrong with it, but it takes like 10 minutes of light driving where the Celica is like 3-4 minutes and the Supra is about 5. The old ’06 we had was like 37 seconds and it was warm. Yet another way the 4th gen was better than the 5th gen.

Box
The Firebird it depends. The slower you go the faster it warms up, the bottom feeder design works really well at cooling because even on a hot summer day if you're doing 70 mph or faster it doesn't want to move past 185º. The last time I drove during the Winter it didn't want to go too far off 160º when going down the highway. Which I like the cold so I don't particularly care in that regard, but it'd be nice to have it closer to 180º for the engine's sake.

That's ok brother doesn't think putting in a new clutch will help enough, I was 25% hopeful it'd help enough but I guess can't really expect too much of an improvement since the clutch is fine otherwise. I don't know... I just don't think there's anything else I'll like as much or more than it outside of a Corvette. Yes I like the Miata and certain aspects of it I like more, but as a total package I dunno... Maybe turbocharged or supercharged I'd like it as much, same goes for a MR2 or 240SX. I think I'd like a 350Z, but would just have concerns of clutch weight on '03-06 models though I've heard the RJM pedal softens effort and fixes the engagement point. That's really about it in terms of other cars I'd be interested in that're also in my budget. Which at least the extensive time with my brother's Miata has given me an actual reality of expectations, which is good and bad in its own way. I guess I need to go out and find a 350Z to test it out. Or maybe Santa will bring me a new left leg for Christmas, that'd be nice.
1994Celica
Don't understand the "hatred" for the 5th gen 4Runner here honestly. Haven't spent much time in a 4th but from my small amount in it, I liked the 5ths interior leagues over it, and just the over all feel. The only thing that I've heard a lot of is the underpower but you buy a 4Runner to go over mountains not win races.
Box
Because no glorious V8, and V8's are life.
richee3
The 4th gen V8 felt about right in terms of power. Not overpowered, not underpowered. The 5th gen has more power than the 2UZ on paper but nothing on paper translates to actual driving experience. The 5th gen lacks torque and the trans is programmed for efficiency, refusing to downshift and staying below 2,000 RPM until you floor it and keep it floored for a while. It’s actually proven to be downright dangerous on the highway, trying to merge or change lanes and the POS won’t accelerate. Couple that with the throttle map where pushing the pedal 50% gives you 10% throttle (thanks, DBW) and it exacerabates the issue. I don’t expect it to win races but I would prefer it to be slightly quicker than a 1970’s pickup truck. As for the build quality, it’s just crap. There’s no other way to put it. I didn’t mind it at first but all of the interior plastics are crap, seats are garbage, the sheet metal is thin and flimsy, brakes are crap, the carpet is Velcro which isn’t a problem for most people but you’re screwed if you have dogs, the suspension is known for squeaks and that drives me nuts, lighting is dismal as discussed earlier, and I could go on and on about the suspension.

Don’t mind me, I’m just ranting. TL;DR, spend a few hours driving a 4th gen 4Runner and a 5th gen, and you’ll find that the 4th gen is easily the better built vehicle despite a couple of known issues. I hear great things about the 3rd gens but I’ve never had the chance to drive one around. I want to get rid of our 5th gen but the wife says we’re keeping it so I guess we’re keeping it. I’ll just cross my fingers for a Colorado hail storm and let insurance take care of it.

QUOTE (Box @ Dec 10, 2017 - 11:46 PM) *
Because no glorious V8, and V8's are life.

The 2UZ really isn’t anything special as far as V8’s go, but it was definitely easier to live with than a 1GR. But I get the feeling that the next gen 4Runner will have the ridiculous 2GR-FKS and accompanying 6 speed trans, making things worse than they already are.
navseal345
What we all need is a GT4 that should keep our minds happy. A little turbo AWD goodness. I don't think anyone would complain about that.

I do wish though that I could find a 6th gen. The idea of getting back into one is almost seared into my mind. But I also realize that may not be what I need right now.
narly_charley
The wife and I opened Christmas gifts early this year. She got me a dash cam! Yay! I've been wanting to get one and I finally have one.
cheela
QUOTE (navseal345 @ Dec 11, 2017 - 7:04 AM) *
What we all need is a GT4 that should keep our minds happy. A little turbo AWD goodness. I don't think anyone would complain about that.

I do wish though that I could find a 6th gen. The idea of getting back into one is almost seared into my mind. But I also realize that may not be what I need right now.


I disagree, it's EXACTLY what you need right now..
bloodMoney
Daniel, what did you go with as far as HIDs? I never know what is a decent brand, there's so many of them out there.

FWIW: I still love our 5th gen 4R. Admittedly, from what I remember about Daniel's 4th gen, I feel like the seats were probably more plush than the 5th gen, but as it's our first "truck" I have no basis for comparison. Although I do wish it had more power. Maybe that can be corrected with new ECU tuning software that is supposed to be good for all '05+ Toyota ECUs...
richee3
We went with DDM again. We’ve had good luck with them despite hearing about bad customer service. When I was doing my research, it seems like a lot of 5th gen owners go with Xenon Depot and are very happy with them.

It’s not that the 5th gen is “bad” by any means, I just personally preferred the 4th gen by a lot. It’s not like I’m going to trade it off for a Honda Pilot or even a Highlander. I’m just going to complain about it until it’s paid off or gone. Credit where it’s due though, it did kick butt on the trails I’ve taken it on. Crawl control was fun to play with. If ours had XREAS, I would be perfectly happy with the suspension. I think I would also be satisfied with KDSS but I can’t say for sure since I’ve nrver had a chance to test drive one. Brigette loves the 5th gen in red though so I’ve considered trading ours for a red TE Premium with KDSS if it drives better than the base suspension.

Have you looked into the Pedal Commander or Sprint Booster for your 4Runner? They are both $300 but they are plug and play for the gas pedal and they’re supposed to eliminate the wonky throttle map and make it more linear. I’m torn on them. I like the thought of the throttle doing what my foot tells it to but it’s also $300 to do the same thing that pressing the gas harder can do. I’m just annoyed that anything like that would be necessary.
njccmd2002
QUOTE (navseal345 @ Dec 11, 2017 - 7:04 AM) *
What we all need is a GT4 that should keep our minds happy. A little turbo AWD goodness. I don't think anyone would complain about that.

I do wish though that I could find a 6th gen. The idea of getting back into one is almost seared into my mind. But I also realize that may not be what I need right now.


via Imgflip Meme Generator

QUOTE (bloodMoney @ Dec 11, 2017 - 10:00 AM) *
Daniel, what did you go with as far as HIDs? I never know what is a decent brand, there's so many of them out there.

FWIW: I still love our 5th gen 4R. Admittedly, from what I remember about Daniel's 4th gen, I feel like the seats were probably more plush than the 5th gen, but as it's our first "truck" I have no basis for comparison. Although I do wish it had more power. Maybe that can be corrected with new ECU tuning software that is supposed to be good for all '05+ Toyota ECUs...



ooo, what car got chunked? 4runner is a good choice.
Bitter
XenonDepot has Philips rebased bulbs and they're some if the best if not the best available rebased bulbs, they last like OEM and have good alignment and proper color. They cost more but they're optically Superior and way way less likely to burn bowls due to UV leaking from cheap glass other Chinese brands are using. CNLight makes a decent cheap bulb but the capsule to base alignment just isn't as good. I've tried out about 5 different brands of D2S based HID bulbs and hands down nothing ever works as good as the genuine name brand stuff. CNLight, Morimoto (a few iterations of their bulbs from different Chinese factories), Philips. Philips or any other OEM wins each time I'm brightness, beam form (hotspot and cutoff being correct), and longevity as well as color accuracy (both bulbs are the same color and stay the same color). OEM salt mixes are higher in metal content so the bulbs dim much more slowly than cheaper bulbs, almost twice the life span at or near peak luminosity. With OEM or even the XD Philips rebase you get consistency, you don't have to shim each set of bulbs to get proper alignment and fiddle with them everytume. I got so sick of that!
navseal345
I've tried twice to get a 6th gen from peoples on here. Spent weeks back & forth w/ one & the other never responded. Still kind of looking but whatever.
bloodMoney
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Dec 11, 2017 - 1:08 PM) *
ooo, what car got chunked? 4runner is a good choice.


We still have everything, execpt the 'vert. Stacy needed a daily for the baby, so we bought a '15 4Runner Limited.
Box
Yeah the Morimoto bulbs that my brother got for the Miata seemed to be of nicer quality than the OPT7 and Kensun, that and the colour was as advertised whereas the others tend to be on the bluer side. I still rather go with an o.e. Philips or OSRAM D2S, but I like white light more towards the yellow side than blue.
richee3
QUOTE (Bitter @ Dec 11, 2017 - 1:18 PM) *
XenonDepot has Philips rebased bulbs and they're some if the best if not the best available rebased bulbs, they last like OEM and have good alignment and proper color. They cost more but they're optically Superior and way way less likely to burn bowls due to UV leaking from cheap glass other Chinese brands are using. CNLight makes a decent cheap bulb but the capsule to base alignment just isn't as good. I've tried out about 5 different brands of D2S based HID bulbs and hands down nothing ever works as good as the genuine name brand stuff. CNLight, Morimoto (a few iterations of their bulbs from different Chinese factories), Philips. Philips or any other OEM wins each time I'm brightness, beam form (hotspot and cutoff being correct), and longevity as well as color accuracy (both bulbs are the same color and stay the same color). OEM salt mixes are higher in metal content so the bulbs dim much more slowly than cheaper bulbs, almost twice the life span at or near peak luminosity. With OEM or even the XD Philips rebase you get consistency, you don't have to shim each set of bulbs to get proper alignment and fiddle with them everytume. I got so sick of that!

I’ve heard that Xenon Depot uses Philips bulbs but I’ve also read that they just use the Philips glass then claim it’s a Philips bulb. I keep distracting myself with rants about the 4Runner that I keep forgetting to bring up a proper HID projector retrofit on it. It’s got a pretty big headlight housing and the projector itself is pretty big so I feel like there should be some good options, apart from the current setup being the bulb into the housing sideways. I do prefer the reliability of OEM HID’s, as well as not having all of the extra wiring that comes with DDM HID’s. The fog lights are almost a lost cause because of the housings melting with any HID bulbs, brighter halogens, or cheap LED’s that run too hot, along with the wiring being too small for much more than the 19 watt H16 bulbs. Plus they’re so high off the ground and don’t have the greatest cutoff that any upgrade to the stock fog lights is done solely for off road lighting or to intentionally blind everyone. That leaves headlight upgrades as the only real option. Or LED light bars but we won’t go there. I keep meaning to start researching retrofits. I’m hoping the early GX460’s will be pretty close to what I need.



QUOTE (navseal345 @ Dec 11, 2017 - 2:24 PM) *
I've tried twice to get a 6th gen from peoples on here. Spent weeks back & forth w/ one & the other never responded. Still kind of looking but whatever.

Are you planning to keep your truck and get a Celica too? If so, you’ll be able to tow a Celica to the meets, bring your grill, make as much torque as all the rest of us combined, and still get better fuel economy. laugh.gif
Bitter
XD has two options, Philips capsule rebased OR just the good bulbs with good glass. The Philips bulbs are the same price as real D2S bulbs cause they pretty much are with a different base.

Start a thread or start reading over at HIDPlanet forums, I'm over there under the same name. We're a friendly crowd for the most part. I'm confident something better fits in there, but even the Lexus side entry HID projectors are sub-par. Of Koito units (what Toyota uses) I'd say the SC430 and Ls460 are the best.
richee3
I did a quick search a while ago and the 06-11 GS350 projectors will work. I didn’t get a chance to read any further about the retrofit process or what other options are out there.
navseal345
QUOTE (richee3 @ Dec 11, 2017 - 6:25 PM) *
QUOTE (navseal345 @ Dec 11, 2017 - 2:24 PM) *
I've tried twice to get a 6th gen from peoples on here. Spent weeks back & forth w/ one & the other never responded. Still kind of looking but whatever.

Are you planning to keep your truck and get a Celica too? If so, you’ll be able to tow a Celica to the meets, bring your grill, make as much torque as all the rest of us combined, and still get better fuel economy. laugh.gif


That's the plan. Truck is turning into a rusty pile of sheet (at least the body is). Kinda want one so if I get the rust fixed I can use the Celica.
I don't need to bore you (Daniel) with the details. That red '99 on here I seen on Craigslist in TN, dude never responded to my pm on here.

Maybe horse & buggy is a better route.
Box
Just have to keep an eye out, they're out there. If it weren't for my RWD or nothing stint I'm in I'd probably get another Celica, inexpensive and easy to find an all stock example.
richee3
I keep an eye on Craigslist over here from time to time. I haven’t seen anything remarkable but I’ll let you know if I do find one. Chee La sent me this one the other day.

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/1998...6384427078.html
Box
For some reason finding a manual 350Z at a local dealership to test the clutch is proving more difficult than it should. Which after looking around for what it costs to get a clean 240SX you're into 350Z territory, and for me that just doesn't make sense to get a 240SX then. Yeah the Z is like 300 pounds heavier somehow, but it also makes nearly twice as much power. Knowing me I'll be perfectly happy with the stock power level of the Z and bolt-ons with a tune would just make it better, whereas with the 240SX I'd be left wanting to swap or go forced induction. Oddly enough I'm content with the 142 hp of the Miata, but it's also a good bit lighter and smaller than the 240SX. Though of course the Miata would be better with more power, it's just doesn't feel as necessary to do. Anyhow that's kind of my thought process at the moment, if the clutch is light enough get a 350Z and if not get another Miata.
cheela
QUOTE (richee3 @ Dec 12, 2017 - 12:51 AM) *
I keep an eye on Craigslist over here from time to time. I haven’t seen anything remarkable but I’ll let you know if I do find one. Chee La sent me this one the other day.

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/1998...6384427078.html


yea, I sit on a computer all day so craigslist is just part of my daily ritual now. lol
that one is really clean though. Looks to be well loved and taken care of. leather seats look decent, body is clean/rust free, radiator isn't brown, no fram oil filter, injen intake and the engine bay is actually white and not filled with grime. Price is high but you really don't see them that clean anymore.
Box
I rather get this one and take care of what's needed and still have money leftover: https://bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/1995-toyo...6387114232.html
Box
There was a really nice turquoise pearl GT for under $3,000 I came across before I bought the Firebird. I'm sure in the duration of time there's been plenty of others come up for sale. Of course you have a much easier time in the south where it hardly snows and if it does they use sand and not salt, cars never rust unless they were just so terribly neglected and abused you wouldn't want to buy it anyway.
navseal345
I've pretty sure I've seen both of those. Ive used www.autotempest.com to search for stuff.

Maybe someone should start a Craigslist thread & post the good finds there, lol.

I'll see how the holidays treat me.
Box
So I watched the MCM Mira build from start to finish and I have to say it's very admirable to put that much work into a car just because you like it and for no other reason.
Box
I really like the 350Z NISMO front end:

Then again I seem to have a thing for cars with elongated noses that come down really low.
Bitter
https://imgur.com/a/v7o5R

Mmmm nothing like hearing popping and crunching ceramic when you're extracting these things.
Box
It's because it's a Ford.
navseal345
Diesels don't have spark plugs!
Box
Having another suicidal thoughts day for no apparent reason, was fine and then out of nowhere my brain is burning and foggy and I just want to end it all. Part of the reason is probably the whole car situation, it just pisses me off so much and is so depressing. I wasn't even thinking about it at the moment though. Bleh...
Box
And I'm better again. Totally not bipolar...
Bitter
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=smf.detector

This is a cool app. Put it by something consuming DC current! Use it on the car to help find parasitic draw.
richee3
^^ That sounds awesome. I use my a/c voltage detector all the time at home, so it’s awesome that we can do it from our phones for DC.
Box
I'll have to try that out later, though knowing me it won't work since I always throw off any kind of electromagnetic fields.

My family doesn't seem to like my idea of blowing my left leg off from the knee down and getting a prosthetic in order to drive again. FINE, DENY ME HAPPINESS.

Anyway, going to help with putting in a new component speaker set in the Miata this weekend. The only 5x7 or 6x8 component set that wasn't a small fortune was from Kicker, so somewhat dubious as to how that'll work out though they were rated well. Waiting on 5XRacing to send out a timing wheel so a full timing job can be done, and advance timing by a few degrees to get more use out of the 93 octane and pick up some power.
Bitter
The Infinty Reference set in that size isn't that expensive, and sounds much better in my opinion.
Box
It was about twice as much for the Infinity, he got the Kicker set and like 1.5 sq ft of NVX dampener included for $99 shipped from Sonic Electronix as they had it on sale. Which went ahead and put the set in earlier, and well it's no Polk Audio but it's better than the PowerBass? I think that was in it. Which one review had stated they didn't like it until the mid-drivers had broken in, so I guess we'll see. It does seem fine as far as clarity and quality goes, just lacking in bass. Which my brother being my brother we're going to test fit a 10" subwoofer in the trunk to remedy that...
Bitter
Ugh paying nearly retail that's why. 6x8 set of Reference on ebay (last years model) is like $100-130 depending who you buy from and they sound WAY better than Kicker bottom of the barrel stuff he bought, even more so when amplified properly! The several years old Kappa 5x7 in my Mazda door panels punch SUPER hard all the way down to 40hz where I have them high passed at. They'll reach a little lower but they roll off under 40hz anyway so to keep them sounding clean I cut them there, and anyway that's why I have the 6x9 array in the back. The cones on the Kappas I have are a woven fiber material (aramid I think) impregnated with resin, rigid and light weight, they have very low distortion even when pushed hard. I will concede the mylar dome tweeters can be a little bright and harsh, the newer models (even last years now) have cloth domes and sound better, but it's not worth the upgrade for me right now. Especially since they don't make coax Kappas anymore and I can't find an OEM looking place to put the tweeters where they'd be pointed at me correctly. I'd have to fabricate speaker mounts in the door panels to put the tweets below the panel surface at an angle out of a small horn shape and I don't even know where I'd but the things to do that kind of work and really don't want to go putting big holes in my door panels.
Box
Which looking around myself can't even see a 5x7/6x8 component Infinity set, there is a JBL one which being they're both Harmon Kardon now I guess close enough and it's like $240. It was just something to replace the worn out crap that was in there. With the car running, it was in the garage so couldn't last night, and the speakers getting good power they sound better and there's more bass presence. Should get better as they break in. At any rate this was for the Miata he drives the least, so he didn't feel like spending 2-3 times as much on door speakers than what he did. Which they actually sound better than I expected something from Kicker to sound, so I guess there's that. At 70 mph with the top down it probably doesn't matter too much what's in it anyway so long as it's decent and not distorted crap. If it had been me I'd have done 8" Pioneer mid-drivers(speaker cutout is 8" for the Bose and it's just a 5x7 adapter for non Bose) along with some Pioneer tweeters through a crossover of sorts. Then could go all out and do a mini amp on everything, and should get plenty of bass from the 8" Pioneers.
Bitter
My bad, they discontinued the component set I guess? Odd. I have a set of 6x9 Reference here, wonder if they'd with some some adapter rings? Now I kind of want to upgrade to the cloth tweet Kappas seeing as they're under $100 for the pair shipped.
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