so i have been on the hunt to find out how to do this and the results have been well... vague to say the least. ive searched around and havent really come across anything to direct on how to do this. could anyone help with a link or a quick write up on how to do this please? i would much appreciate it!

http://gtfours.co.uk/

I can give you step by step instructions. Email me at arturiofleuristal@gmail.com

http://slender.mine.nu/celica/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18228

Just found this, does this sound about right??

If you actually have an st205 or a swapped 3rd gen 3sgte WITH the stock intercooler &pump and relay box which are wired correctly, and you want that pump to run constantly, then yes.

If you want to defeat a code 54 then no. Sorry youre OP is kinda misleading.

Yes I have a 205. It's not a swap. So if I run it constantly I will get a 54 code?

No, in that link all the guy did was bridge the ignition switched 12v line with the relay controlled power wire, and then grounded it out. Its all still wired with resistance so the ecu will see that its all connected like stock. You just bypass the relay itself

i performed the mod to run the pump all the time and now i have come up with a code 54... the dreaded code lol
the pump runs and the fluid level is at the top. does anyone have any suggestions to as what this code if for?

While I can't say definitively it's probably not receiving the correct voltage back to the ECU after the mod.

all wires were soldered and the ground was cleaned. i did notice the level when down then the pump started to run and ive read that the sensor is extremely picky when it comes to level. im just not sure if i should bridge the sensor like so many do for a fmic or back track and just not have the pump run constantly. also like to add the light immediately comes on even if i unplug the battery for awhile.

Top off the intercooler and see if that fixes it. Since it's running constantly now you won't even need a second set of hands to help you with this. Start the car w/ hood and intercooler fill cap open. It will go down just as you described... top it off till it's just below the neck, cap it, and see if that fixes the issue. Turn car off, you will probably have a little overflow into your catch can. Clear codes, and start her up again. If it was sensor related (barring bad sensor which I doubt), this should fix the problem. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the issue since you have the pump running constantly now.

If that doesn't fix it, its either wiring, or sensor itself, which again I doubt since 54 just started popping up after you made the modification.

well after many tense minutes. the car runs a check engine light free. i could not get the light to go out so i reversed my wiring and decided to leave the toyota engineering alone. annnndddd then the car wouldnt start... gahh

















no worries lol managed to blow the ignition fuse inside the car. i sat stumped wonder why my cel would not come on regardless. key on. ignition on. or even key on engine on. i will do some more looking into later on, for now im relieved im cel free and it runs.

Just wire in resistors at the ecu and hardwire the pump to run constantly.
also yea the code was prob from the coolant level sensor

wtf did you do ?

Did you read anything from the link I posted ?

I didn't listen that's what happened. I luckily just blew the ignition fuse some how. I'm just going to leave that electrical alone for now... can runs and no cel.

Id like to bring this back from the dead. I've been reading a lot about heat soaked tmic (bought the reflective tape too), and know its an issue with the st205. I wont be driving this car daily, so the obvious decreased life expectancy of the pump itself isn't a big deal.

I looked through http://gtfours.co.uk and it says the st205 wiring is different (from st165) for its how to run the IC pump consistently. And like 4 places where the links are dead, or have been removed.

Found http://www.celica.org.au/tm.aspx?m=11 which sort of tells you how to do it, but with no explanation. An I can't really tell what is going on in the pictures. I don't really want to try something with an explanation of what these wires do.

Does anyone know how to make the pump run constantly?

Thanks!

Leave it be, why heat up all the coolant compared to just a portion of it?
Or better yet, just go FMIC.

I had the same thoughts, to be honest I would stay away from it. I took my time with the wiring and used schematics from work and ended up spending all night diagnosing why the car wouldn't start after. I put some heat tape on the underside of the intercooler and called it a day. although on warm days you will notice a drop in response if you let it heat soak its usually never a problem driving the car. (just my 2 cents )

unless you are sitting at idle for long time, the TMIC does not heat soak. I wired my pump on to be full time, even on 100 degree days here, the intercooler is quite cool after popping the hood. I defeated code 54 at the ECU connections itself. if you do it there, use the ST185 way, not the 205 way

Yeah sorry after some more feedback from the gt4 owners, I found out the ST205 has no noticeable difference in a constant IC pump, where are the old ST165s have great improvement.
Apparently Toyota learned from its mistakes in design, and the ST205 is much better.