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6G Celicas Forums > 6th Generation Celica > Engine/Transmission/Maintenance
cyb593
So here is the scenario. I recently just got my O2 sensor changed on my 1995 Toyota Celica GT . I bring it home from the mechanic due to an oxygen sensor being unremovable on my part. I drive it home just fine and park the car in my driveway. I only live about 2 miles from the mechanic. Two days later I try to crank the car in the morning and it won't crank it starts making a small clicking noise and the light flashing on the dash.I have already replaced the battery back in January when It went bad. Meanwhile 1 week later I try to jumpstart the car and it won't start. I hook the battery up to a battery charger get all the way charged up reconnect the battery. After I do this the car tries to start up for a second then stops then all the lights on my dash go dim no matter if I'm trying to start the car or not, they are maybe half the brightness they should be. Meanwhile my alarm system starts to go off even though all my doors are closed and my hood is closed and the alarm was only going off about a fourth of the sound level that it should. I was thinking alternator at first but now I am just dumbfounded what could cause this problem. I do have video of it trying to crank the morning this started.

I also got a new viper alarm system installed by Best Buy before Christmas, the battery changed in January. Could there be a problem with the alarm system? Alternator? Starter? Battery connectors?

Any help would be great and anything you think I need to provide such as a video or pictures I can do.

VavAlephVav
http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/94_6gmanua...odes%202.2L.pdf

http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/94_6gmanual/94_6gmanual.htm

First you want to use a jumper wire to connect TE1 to E1 in the DIAG box near the driver side of the firewall under the hood.
Then you turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light. This will give you the Code that points you in the right direction.
The links I posted have step-by-step procedure to diagnose each trouble code.
Box
It's possible you got a battery with a bad cell that's dead now, try using a battery that's known to be good. If the battery is good I'd check battery cables and ground wires, after that it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator and starter.

Though I'd be willing to bet it'd be the starter over the alternator.
Jmk91
You could always grab a digital multimeter, check your voltage on your battery. Should be 12v or higher some range around 11.5-11.8. Mines at 12.4. It should be in the 12s but if it's way lower than you know battery is your issue. You can check the voltage from alternator as well once car is running.
Zeros2
Take your battery and have it load tested that will tell you if it's good or not, I have had batteries off the shelf with dead cells it happens.
Box
Yup and a battery can still read in the 12'a with a dead cell.

We can send people to the moon and spacecraft to the edge of the solar system, but we can't make day to day items with 100% success rate. laugh.gif
cyb593
I appreciate all the help. I will get the battery tested. Not sure how good Walmart batteries are but I splurged for the 5 year battery so it should be decent but you never know. I will keep updated on what happens. Much appreciated.
Bitter
QUOTE (Box @ Jun 11, 2016 - 2:27 PM) *
Yup and a battery can still read in the 12'a with a dead cell.

We can send people to the moon and spacecraft to the edge of the solar system, but we can't make day to day items with 100% success rate. laugh.gif

Actually a dead cell will give lowered voltage readings as each cell is 2.1 volts. More likely the battery is sulfated and has a surface charge, so volts are up but amps are down.
Box
Yeah that's right 6x2.1=12.6 total voltage, guess I should've said weak instead of dead. With no load it's fine, but once under load it rears itself. Either way I'd test with a battery that's known to be good, you have two other cars in your sig surely between the two you have a battery to try. Easier than going to have the battery tested when this will tell you definitively in about five minutes.
cyb593
It was the battery that was causing this issue. I am also being told that the alternator could have caused this issue. Could this be the truth? Has anyone had this experience? The battery was only at 7V and wasn't holding a charge. I am going to take my car to advance auto to get the alternator tested but i have never heard of the alternator causing a bad cell in the battery.

Thanks for everyone's help with this issue.
Box
If you have multi-meter you can test the alternator on the car, while running you should get around 14-14.6V off the battery. If the alternator is weak and not really recharging the battery it'll kill it.
cyb593
Ok so this turned out to be a bad cell on the battery which walmart replaced due to only being a couple months old. This worked for another couple months and this week and the same thing is happening again. The car wont crank and i cant jump it. I am going to have to take the battery back to walmart for charging and checking. I have taken the car to advanced auto and they checked the system with their computer and it says everything is fine. Any other suggestions? I have read the alternator, starter or battery cable and maybe even the ground. Not sure how to find out what is going on.
Bitter
Bad ground cables and bad power cables can make cars not start with good alternators and good batteries. For sure check those!
Box
Yup, good grounds and power cables are critical.
cyb593
Removed the alternator from the car and got it tested at advanced auto parts. It tested good. So i have replaced the battery more than once due to bad cells. The alternator checks out. I cleaned the ground wire by the battery. The cables do not look bad. Now i noticed this started to happen after my alarm system was installed at best buy. Not sure if that could have been what started it or just a coincidence. But even when i leave the alarm off the battery still dies. Right now i cant drive the car because of the catalytic converter is bad (failed emissions)but still starting it up. Since the alternator has been ruled out is the only other thing it could be cables?

Is there a way to test the cables?
Bitter
Voltage drop test is a good one, google it for some great how to videos. Bad connections at the battery posts and battery terminal to the cable can do this too.
Wild202
Most likely not true alarm installed and connected.
I once properly plugged boost controller, and he killed the battery for 1-2 days.
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