6G Celicas Forums

Moneygram...... DUH...

^ THAT is what was needed.

Trying to clear up the paperwork and timeline is all. Best of luck with the sale!

Noted as rebuilt 2 years ago:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1021660

Engine only sale noted as rebuilt in April of 2012:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...mp;#entry960880

So are you saying this has been rebuilt 6 months ago, or 3.5 years ago....... Or 3 separate times in the last 3.5 years......

And the CP pistons are noted in the FS from 3.5 years ago.


I don't mean to be a dick but saying it was rebuilt 6 months ago is untrue to your previous FS posts.

Clarification will help you sell.

"Is this just fantasy"

Anyway he can ask whatever he wants, and unless somebody is offering something more than "I wish I hadn't just (fill in the blank), or I would buy it.", the other guy can offer whatever he wants.

My only opinion is that there seem to be A LOT of 3sgte swaps and full gt4 conversions for sale right now. With more options, it becomes a buyers market.

The one viable question that hasn't been asked is:

What kind of care and maintenance has the car seen in the 3+ years since the motor was rebuilt and put in, since it's only seen 100 miles since then.

Today I'm taking a 2015 Genesis 5.0 for a test drive. Tired of the Santa Fe, too mom-mobile.

I have the Mishi radiator and thermostat on my 3S and am very happy all around.

http://thmotorsports.com/

I get most of my parts from them especially brake pads. Cannot beat their prices on certain items.

Thank you for the feedback. Will examine this weekend.

Any other advice or suggestions. Wheel is extremely stiff, drives like its no PS at all and even a little harder than that when trying to turn the wheel to either side pin while driving in the lot. :-(

Whole car was on a lift 3 feet in the air...

Just seemed strange. like i said ill try again.

I did that already however there's still a lot of air left in the system. Perhaps like I said I just need to keep doing it. Patience sometimes wins.

Thanks. I do have access to a lift however I haven't "rinsed and repeated" the process as you suggest.

Hey guys,

So after replacing a bunch of stuff on the car I'm having a little difficulty with this.

Is there a non-messy way to bleed the PS fluid after replacing essentially the whole system. I have a brand new rack and a new pump. There's a ton of air in the system after filling it and burping the system so I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to bleed it without just.... (sigh) unhooking a hose and having it just spew fluid all over the place.

I know if I were at a Toyota dealer they have a machine they hook up to the fill cap that basically forces the lines full and removes the air via the machine by doing this.


Any input? Trying to finish everything up after replacing half the car lol.

Unless you have a conversion I am not aware of and have the 94 GT, the front calipers are available almost anywhere online (got mine from Rockauto.com) and the rears should be available at almost any auto parts store as well as online. I just got new calipers all around (seized brackets), and got the fronts from rockauto, rears were available at advance auto.

That said and re-reading your post, you should be able to find replacements online.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=91467

1 bar is 14.5 psi.

In as much as 1 mile is 1.62 km.

Your mods are irrelevant when it comes to a standardized unit of measurement for atmospheric pressure, being converted to a different measurement for pressure.

How much HP your car has, has nothing to do with the fact you're using combustion right next to your turbo to spin it up.


Here is a useful aspect of the anti-lag manifold used in a different way than intended....
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/41/159029.html?start=14
"I do. However I'm just tempted to throw an EGT probe to monitor cylinders 2 and 3 (using the port on the cylinder 3 runner) as they're prone to running leaner than cylinders 1 and 4. TBH, even fitting the manifold with all the plugs blanked out seems wise, just so I can do things with them later if I wanted to. Besides, another safety net is always nice. Fitting a slightly upgraded turbo to a stock ECU will certainly mean watching AFRs carefully anyway as boost is slowly increased."

This is usually an issue if you are running the stock top mount intercooler with the center feed intake manifold.

The one you have is disabled unlike the one in the actual WRC car. Also unless you're doing exclusively track/rally racing and want to go through a turbo every few weekends, having anti-lag would not be a good thing.
When your foot comes off the gas with anti-lag enabled, the engine timing changes, it pushed fuel through the cylinder uncombusted, and with the air source (the pipes that just end) ignition happens in the exhaust manifold itself, right next to the turbo. This spins up the turbo while you are decelerating, and a lot of rally cars will see peak boost at this time. This allows for instant power after the turn is made in this case, and to be able to power out instead of waiting for the turbo to spin up again.


On the other side anti-lag and launch control are two entirely different things as launch control is something that is available on non-turbo cars. That just basically pins your rpm at a specifies point (usually at the "X" intersection of maximum power to traction if it were a chart). The "explosions" or popping of the exhaust is again, unburned fuel igniting late as a result of your car pushing a ton of fuel while being pinned to what is usually, not peak RPM. So the car is adjusting the timing and a/f mixture here so it's ready as soon as you let off the brake to give you enough fuel.

Today A LOT of stuff got done. New front calipers came in, new steering rack was installed, old dead axles were taken out.

No pictures because engine bay scuzz and fluids up to my elbows.

To be continued tomorrow. (axles, radiator, brakes, valve gaskets)

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=95351

Should be very similar and you can't get much more detailed.

If his Celica is lowered (and it looks like it is) then you need the spacer otherwise the boot is stretched and will eventually fail.

You have a 3s swapped convertible.... fantastic.

The bolts as stated before you should be able to get through fastenal or another store that deals specifically in nuts and bolts, just make sure you get grade 8 for them if they're available.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=81978

Last pic is about the most detailed information I could find on it.

Another pic (happens to be my engine lol):
http://s82.photobucket.com/user/supershann...st2058.jpg.html

Those are the ones. Still stretched and needed spacer?

What outer axles did you use? The standard is mr2 turbo inners and st185 outers but that leads to the stretching and the need for spacers for a lowered car. I understand the solution to avoid the need for spacers is to substiture lexus e250 or 89?-93 camry outers, as they are half an inch longer.

I haven't been able to confirm this, and that it is a viable long term solution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D22i_smiziw

And what he said ^


Add: Same car made a little over 1100whp after a little more snooping.

Let me ask an equally vague question:

How much does a car cost?