6G Celicas Forums

Before i go through with it, i thought it best to get some opinons...

I am planning to have some solid Rear Strut Mounts made up... Something about that floating bushing design just doesn't do it for me... Any logical reason why i shouldn't go through with it? After all... I believe that once you make your adjustments and tighten everything down that coil overs are basically attached to a solid mount......

looking forward to your thoughts on this....

I can't believe i'm about to say this in October... If it stops snowing and we get a warm enough day this week, i'm going to take it apart again and take pictures and try to figure it out...

The new Megan Racing springs came in yesterday. I discovered that my strut mounts are shot... The eibach springs and megan springs seem to be quite close in height when out of the car. I installed the new springs in the rear, since thats where the problem was to begin with and now i also hear a loud slamming noise... like the strut smashing down on top of the spring when i hit bumps in the road. Is it possible that the one strut could be over charged and it's not compressing properly? no... never mind... cause the right rear also is very soft when turning... On Left hand turns, the car dips deep onto the right side... On Right hand turns it appears to not move at all....

Is it really worth spending $800 on Koni adjustables, plus $200 on springs, and another $400 on Strut mounts? Geeze.... Maybe i should just drive it like it is for now and get some coil overs......

So, here's the deal. I bought my celi in April. It has Eibach Sportline Springs and KYB struts. Her rear end has been squeeking since i bought it. Upon removal of the loud one (pass rear) i discovered that the spring comes up short on the strut with about 1.5" of space. Is this space supposed to be there or should it be closer to an OEM spring? I have also noticed that when the car is down on all fours, that i can reach inside the wheel well and move the rear springs...... New springs coming tomorrow anyway... just curious....

so.... i think maybe this guy knows what my problem is... anyone know where i can get a heavy duty set of gears???


"take to reputable transmission shop to get it diagnosed and repaired. it sounds like the synchronizers are a problem there. and you may have metal in your fluid now that it's been grinding which will affect the rest of the transmission. if you are speed shifting as in racing, you are not doing your transmission any good. you probably don't have a transmission built to do that if it's the original factory tranny... meaning you did a major NO NO to your tranny and are tearing it up speed shifting when it isn't built for racing."

So heres the problem....

My gears grind.
The clutch is good.
Press in the clutch... to the floor, let off the gas... or vice versa... guess it depends on the driver... but either way... if i dont let the rpm's drop down low, the gears grind. doesnt matter what gear. doesnt matter if its up or down. only thing that matters is the rpm... if its higher they grind, if its low say below 2500 they don't. cant give an exact number cause whoever had the car before me put in new gauge faces and messed up all the needles...

could it be a flywheel issue?
shifter needs adjustment?
fluid change?

please help!!!!!!

thanks for the info nik. the turbo is probably a better option financially plus it will add some color and liven up the engine bay. when i get ready to do the labor im sure you'll be hearing more from me. thanks again

for now i think i will just keep researching my options. when the time comes to add the GFS to the car, i will just have to go over the finances for the project.


off topic.... there should be a collection of carbon fiber pieces available for the 6g and the 7AFE in the months to come. but no one knows yet!!!

its a vacuum leak. i had the same problem on my 98 ford contour. come to find out there was a rubber plug missing off the intake plenum... chec your hoses

maybe a turbocharged slightly modified 7afe would be a better option.... economically.... a rebuilt 7afe will run about the same as a heavy duty set of pistons and rods.............. and the turbo would be much cheaper than having all the machine work done.......... kinda feels like im right bac where i started........

i have been doing research all week. although i would love to boost this little puddle jumper, i just dont know if its a headache i want to deal with right now. although the ebay "tuner kits" are conveniently priced under $1000 and include just about everything you need, less the manifold and downpipe.

just about every post i've seen for the NA 7A, recommends swapping to a G series head. Boring out the cylinders to 82mm would allow the 2ZZ pistons to slide right in, and i just discovered that they now offer 13:1 pistons for the 2ZZ. The new head and HKS cam gears require swapping the timing belt with one from a porche. i dont have it right in front of me which one, but it is in my records. There have been several people who have done this conversion already, however none who tried the 13:1 piston or extreme cams. i plan to use the same methods with the air and fuel as i used on my 98 ford contour zetec. after tripping the CE light with the air flow, the new 5th injector was just enough to straighten that out plus the new straight through exhaust makes an impressive improvement over the OE 110hp. returning to the celica, with a dry sump oil pump, custom IM, bigger throttle body, and a whole lot of hard work and tuning. i believe i can bring a +250hp 7a to the table.

on the other hand........... it could just snap craccle and pop when i try to start it...... that would succ

i have officially made the journey from domestics to imports as i purchase my 97 celica. i refuse to drive anything the way i buy it, so heres what i've come up with so far......

the plans for my 7afe....

4AGE (16 valve) head
2ZZ (11.25 compression?) pistons and rods
jac knife the crank
CRANE CAMS RPM 2600-6000; Adv. Dur. 292 Int./302 Exh.; Valve Lift .458 Int./.472 Exh.; Lobe Angle 110 deg.;
PACESETTER HEADER
OEM exhaust (less the resonator and cat)
extreme port and polish on the head
HKS valve springs
HKS adjustable cam gears


any ideas suggestions comments are enthusiastically welcomed.....