6G Celicas Forums

any news about these rear light conversions or still busy?

In Europe teh standard models should already have fog lights fitted. I ran into this issue because a garage told me my model failed the MOT (roadworthiness test) due to absence of a fog light. However, he conned me because a car that does not have a fog light and does not have fog light controls, does not require a fog light, but if it has either the light or the controls, it should have the whole installation and it should be working properly.
This guy said I had fog lights but no control. Turns out that he just wanted to make a few pennies extra (because aswitch and wire costs next to nothing). He wired the one of the second brake lights as fog light, which screwed up the light-out indication circuit. So I fixed that but then was left without fog light. So I wired in a new fog light, which is quite easy to do:

Get a fog light from some car accessory shop and mount it to the rear bumper (check your country's regulations on location of the fog light. In the UK that's between 30 and 50 cm above ground level and either right or at centre of the rear bumper).
Run a wire to a switch in teh front (you need only one wire, the other you can connect to chassis directly from the lamp). Wire the switch to the high beam light (I think, because it will actually switch the fog light off when using high beam) via a fuse and you should be good to go. You can double check using the wiring schematics elsewhere on this site...

actually, I don't... If I use the pre-crunch exchange rate, th ebumper price I stated is exactly teh bumper price you would probably pay in teh States, assuming 800 US$ for a full veilside body kit...
But with the hint of cynisism I would take it that the one I mentioned is probably not real veilside...?

AH, so yours was 2nd hand?
I guess it's not a bad price though.
I can get one for 150 GBP (ex P&P), which they claim to be Veilside, but they also state some adjustments may be required to fit it properly, which makes me wonder if it really is...

I'd beg to differ... In some cases its worthwhile spending money now, rather than saving it. E.g. when buying a house (ofcourse you have to time it right etc).
Likewise some cars are actually worth spending money on, like classic cars.
For example, the Honda NSX is about 10k (GBP) now second hand, but that will go up as it will become a classic in the (near) future.
Or try buying a DB5 these days. If you did 35 years ago, you'll be glad you did.

I think I understand what Bitter is trying to say though, which is save your money for necessities first and if you have some extra to spend, you can use that for "unnecessary" modding.
It means sometimes you have to be patient.

However, I think some people should read better too, because Rave2n did say that he was gonna hold off until he had the extra cash again.

All in all I think we should all be VERY careful with what we say and also should we read properly. Communications is the number one culprit in any company, so make sure you get it right. Say what you mean, don't mean what you say

back on topic: Your equipment will be available in a few month;'s time, as others said, its an average price, so you will be able to get it for about that price in 6 montsh as well.

How much did you pay for yours?

Guys,

Is there someone who has a good writeup ona clutch replacement on a 3S-GE engine? (rev 3)
Got a GT that needs its clutch replaced at soem stage, I start to notice it cannot put down the power very well anymore (slips a bit when shifting at high rev).

O, wow, you're in Wales! That means I can get such lights sorted on my celica too (live near Bristol) using the same parts, yippy!

Sorry, I'd like to use this as a guide to replace my clutch plates, so I have a few questions:
1) Is it really necessary to remove the engine mounts to drop the tranny?
2) If you do that, shouldn't you first support the engine and the tranny before you remove the mounts?
3) Shouldn't you at least first support the tranny before undoing the tranny mount?
4) Is it possible to leave the engine mounts in place, support the tranny, undo teh tranny mount bolts and then lower the tranny?

I was gonna say the same thing: it's missing the rubber seal. I'mnot sure if that one's on the hood or on the bumper though. But sticking one in that place would definitely sort the problem in a correct manner.
By the way, I am planning on ordering the same bumper, heheh.
Let me know if you run into problems please, so I can foresee them when i get mine, and maybe we can solve them together...

I second that, and I seriously hope people continue to come up with such great ideas, it inpires all of us!

I agree with both views. Bothsmall time business as well as helping each other out are part of the community.
There's no reason to be arsy by either viewholder. If people making this stuff to sell don't want to provide their methods, that's perfectly fine, and understandable from their point of view, but as said, the info is available on the internet somewhere, so the "secret" will be out soon enough anyway.

besides that, I do not plan to buy either this set or the other one that was made to order, simply because I live on the other side of the pond and total cost simply does not warrant any of this stuff for me.
If people can understand and realise that some people are not willing to spend several hundreds of dollars on a gauge pod because shipping from the US to the rest of the world starts at 150 US$ and up, then I think we are halfway to helping each other out. If people can understand this point of view and are willing to PM me (and other non-US'ers that cannot/will not pay more on P&P than the product costs) with their advice, then I can promise to keep it to myself so I do not undermine their business.

All in good spirit...

I did a good scan through the website and they have an address and registry number etc. Also have some review, including one of this bumper.
Unless someone can tell me they bought a veilside bumper and fitted it without any additional work whatsoever to make it fit, I don't see why I shouldn't order this one, as I got the impression pretty much all body kits need some work, and if this a real veilside, it should be as good as they come...

Hi guys,
I found this site in the UK for a veilside bumper:
http://www.nicedeals.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5177
The price is 149 GBP, which sounds ridiculously cheap considering that on ebay non-veilside copies go for over 200 GBP... (more realistic since a full veilside kit goes for about 600 GBP, 800-1000 US$ in the US)\

WHat are your thoughts on this?

Any chance to get a write up on how to make these?

I'd love to see a writeup on it as well, this is amazing!

you should be able to do this with a Blow Off Valve or Dump Valve.
My understanding of teir use is that in teh states it is perfectly legal to drive with BOVs, but in the UK it is not. If you use a BOV, the "over pressure" must be recycled to the exhaust pipe. Using a BOV will allow you to regulate inlet pressure much more accurately (as it is the inlet you regulate, rather than the exhaust pressure). In addition it allows the turbo to freewheel, which allows it to spool up faster (waste gate would allow the turbo to spool down, with all conseqences that come with it...). I haven't seen any BOVs that recirculate though, so if you do find one, let me know!
BTW, could you do something of a writeup please? I want to do the same conversion as you...

I was gonna say, pipe leak. I had that with a Passat once. If the rebuild worked for you, that's great news!

Here's an interesting question:
Has anyone did a V6 or a V8 swap for the 6G Celica?
How about swapping for a 3.0ltr Supra engine?

So how many liters for the 3S-GE tranny?
I have to say, my gear box isn't grinding at all, and I doubt the fluid has been changed, well, ever!
Only thing is that sometimes it is difficult to get into reverse. I need to declutch and clutch again. Honestly I don't think this is a sync or oil issue with my Celica. Reason why I think that is because every car i had with the same reverse selection method (i.e select far right low on the gear shift to select reverse), had the exact same issue. I'm currently driving an Almera as daily driver and that one is worse than the celica for selecting reverse. I had a rover 400 (same model as honda civic), which had the exact same issue. the only car that didn't have that isssue was a Passat I once had, but that had a push down mechanism to select reverse...

Not really over worked (sorry if I gave that impression), but I do have a 3S-GE N/A engine, and that one will definitely need new fuel injectors if I don't want to wreck the engine, even if I run it at low boost (6 psi-ish, which I need to since its a 3SGE N/A engine). If I have new fuel injectors, I need a fuel pressure regulator (maybe also a new fuel pump) and fuel controller to allow more fuel to be send to the engine.
Can't do blow off valves as it is not street legal in the UK (and I do want to drive it legally on the road).

But all in all I guess its true that most mods apply to both super charger and turbo's alike...

Doesn't the sound depend very much on teh engine type as well?
I have a 3S-GE 3rd gen. After servicing it myself it sounds a bit better (using full synth oil).
Once teh back box (muffler) broke off the piping, effectively eliminating the larger part of the exhaust end box usage. It sounded quite a bit more sporty without sounding like waking up neighbours. I'd like that sound again (stock resonator at the moment), so I may try some straight through exhausts before anything else.

Babi,

Is your engine a 3S-GE? I got a 94 GT with a 3S-GE engine, and Turboing is not easy on that engine (read the forced induction thread). It involves upping the injectors, intake, exhaust system, turbo, intercooler, oil piping for intercooler, dump valves (note, in the UK blow off valves are illegal for street use. The dump valve must be internal/recirculated to be street legal), fuel controller, ECU replacement... Quite a bit of work, and lot sof money to have it tuned...
Also, a 3S-GE you cannot boost highly, just about 6 psi or so. More will need forged pistons and rods, and ensure your engine is healthy (very important!)
My engine is very healthy. This is also why I use full synthetic oil (halfords own brand, was only 5 GBP more expensive than their own brand semi synth oil). Teh engine sound sa bit more smoothly now...

I don't see anyone making any remarks regarding the difficulty of upgrading/fitting their engine with a turbo or super charger.
Surely there will bea difference? E.g. with a turbo you need blow off and/or bypass valves for during shifting to prevent pressure spikes. From what I understood you won't have have this problem with a super charger as it delivers the amount of pressure you need depending on the RPM of the engine (assuming you don't keep your foot on the accelerator during shifting that is). This means you only need a boost pressure regulator and set it up once.
It means you can leave your exhaust system intact (though you probably still need to get an intercooler and ensure suffiecient fuel flow).
With a turbo you will need a new exhaust system, new intake system, boost control, bypass/dump valves, fuel controllers, engine controllers, and a whole lot of time and patience to set it all up.

If you don't liek the colour for whatever reason: paint over it.
Else: who cares? its a garage! they get black/brown in no time if used regularly