6G Celicas Forums

Can't say I've experienced your issue directly but here is what I would try.

The stereo itself should have a dedicated power antenna and a separate remote turn on wire. Your old one may not have. They are also usually limited in the amperage they can provide. Maybe connecting the two outputs off just the one source is shutting down the output from the deck? Try running the output from the deck just to the amp wire and not the power antenna and see if you get sound then. Or just power test the output wire from the deck..it may just not work at all

Sounds like a bit of an exhaust leak. My truck was leaking just after the turbo where it bolts to the downpipe and it was whistling like that. Of course it was a diesel so was easy to see black smoke pouring out of the hole when i revved it up. Yours might be a little more difficult to pinpoint but try squirting soapy water on some of the joints before it heats up and you'll see it bubbling if you are leaking

I can confirm 7th gen gts wheels on a gt4 with minimum 15mm spacers

m6 x 1
m8 x 1.25
m10 x 1.25
m12 x 1.25

I can confidently say that from my experience 98% of any Toyota ever will use those 4 thread sizes. I've got 4 huge bins dedicated to those and I just keep filling them up every time I wreck a toyota or honda

found 245/50R16 tires at the wrecker. Tried to stuff them on. Definitely not gonna happen

Oh sorry, thought I had updated this. I forgot to torque the wheel nuts....I know it was a rookie mistake and I felt like/still feel like an idiot. I had put the wheels on just so I could relocate it in the shop during the winter and promptly forgot all about it. It was the aluminum spacers making the noise.


Don't judge me

It should look like that. The relay has to be grounded....it almost looks like your relay is getting its ground through your ballasts.

its a little crude but you should be able to decipher. Use the stock switch output to trigger your relay. Any 12V relay will work they are all essentially the same thing...even your fancy HID one

Honestly though sounds to me like a bad connection or a cheapass Chinese HID kit from ebay....I would guess the latter amirite?

something doesn't look right with your relay. Both your lights should come off the same output pin, and the relay coil should go directly to ground. hang on a sec I'll draw up a diagram of what I am picturing

They replaced the ecu? like the whole engine computer? why?

Yes drl as well, funny thing for me is the stock headlights had drl methinks cuz they passed that part for me, then I got new headlights and just had to show them the housing to get my sticker...they didn't do a complete reinspection

awesome. I thought I had seen every top gear episode but I don't remember that one

The only lights I had to change when doing my OOP inspection were the low beams, everything else on the car was approved

no bogging at all. I won't worry about it

Just checked and I am teed off this line here, well not exactly but down there roundabouts...

and I am boosting right around 12-13 in all gears
so that is all good.

What texasnick said about there being no cat now with the dp makes perfect sense.

I really don't want to mess with tuning so a wideband setup would only give me more things to bother with and spend money on...I think I will keep it as is and sleep soundly,

I see, and what are the advantages of the wideband over the standard?

just found this thread http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=23139&hl=

Imma change my tee location and see what happens

ummm I feel foolish, I'm a good mechanic but very very new to FI. It just smells rich at idle...can't say I noticed anything when she goes...usually just trying to keep it on the road. My boost gauge is teed off of a line....don't know which one. It was right by the firewall, maybe at the turbo pressure sensor. I followed a how-to article somewhere...probably gt4oc or gt4ec or gt4dc.co.uk. Can't seem to find it again. Sadly I don't know what half the lines are for in that beast. Please educate me.


As for the wideband sensor. I believe I have a bung for it in my dp already, I just assumed it was for running some sort of aftermarket engine management thing, didn't really plan on doing much upgrading...can barely afford to just maintain. Do I just unplug my factory O2 and plug the harness into the wideband one in the other hole? Or is there much more to it than that?

every day that thing runs will be a gift

not a lot of room back there at all but here is what I made of it







Good solid weekend project. Still awaiting some final touches and cleanup

Pretty new to the turbo world. Only mod is the Berk downpipe on otherwise bone stock 3rd gen engine, running 12psi according to my gauge. Runs, idles and goes just fine.....just smells rich to me, exhaust tip is a little on the dark side too. Is it normal behavior or what? where do I start my troubleshooting?

trust me I have installed plenty, there is more to it than just a wire tapped to an ebrake signal. And the driver needs to do a short sequence of events every time you leave the car to put the unit into "ready" mode. If done correctly it is no problem, if not done correctly you are asking for trouble

get a remote start designed for a manual transmission, and install it correctly. Problem solved. Your "installer" should know this already. There is no chance of the car trying to start in gear as they are equipped with a series of idiot proof failsafes. Again only if it is installed correctly

no cruise control....no problem

drivers seat is adjustable with the dial on the side, it will close that gap up