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Mar 25, 2018 - 7:12 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1096895 · Replies: 4 · Views: 2,344
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QUOTE (jnylaw @ Nov 10, 2016 - 10:52 PM) *
Hey all, I've got a 1995 Celica with a 2 L, that I gave a full tune up about 2 months ago. I was driving it with no problem, parked it at home and the next morning it would crank but no fire.
Since, I have checked resistance from coil and distributor. Both checked out fine. I have replaced fuel filter (just in case), seen that I am getting plenty of fuel. Bought a new fuel pump, thinking may be the problem. Did the starting fluid into throttle body, no fire.

My next suspicions are the timing belt jumping a tooth (don't see how this could be, as it was running fine when I parked it the day before) or the next is a plugged exhaust.

I'm out of options, if anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
jnylaw

I had the same problems a few years ago turns out it was pipe coming out of fuel tank was loosing pressure due to corrosion changed it and it started fine

May 14, 2010 - 5:55 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #853406 · Replies: 36 · Views: 10,044
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QUOTE (rave2n @ May 11, 2010 - 2:11 PM) *
http://www.autotechonwheels.com/smfeb08.htm


I found that information quite interesting, its very similiar to the issue i'm having....changing the timing belt this weekend, shall be fun. Anyone have any tips, like where I should support the engine from once I remove the side mount? I have a couple big jacks and i figured a 2x4 to distribute the weight to support the engine, just don't want to damage the oil pan.

never seen that before but would be enough to do it

as for changing the timing belt I hope your changing the water pump
idler pulley and a new toyota tensioner cause this is a must for these type of engines
I used a jack with a piece of wood under the transmission to support the engine

May 8, 2010 - 5:26 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #852165 · Replies: 36 · Views: 10,044
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QUOTE (rave2n @ May 6, 2010 - 1:44 PM) *
Would a timing belt possibly stretch?

Cause I checked my timing before, and it was fine, but at the time it wasn't having issues....

I just don't want to change it, if its not the problem, as its not a fun task

I had a similar problem with a bike I was driving it would run great until it warmed up
then it would sound like it was running on three cylinders
turns out it was the thermostat
by the time i figured it out I'd blown the head gasket

Apr 11, 2010 - 12:37 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #846304 · Replies: 31 · Views: 6,611
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QUOTE (mgnt232 @ Apr 11, 2010 - 1:21 PM) *
thats basically what I was asking, I just want to know can I do this? without worrying about it hitting?
thanks

IF you do this and go over a speed bump I'd say you will leave it behind you

Apr 10, 2010 - 5:19 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #846095 · Replies: 8 · Views: 2,229
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QUOTE (nics @ Apr 6, 2010 - 1:40 PM) *
what other test did you use for the internal leak other than the pressure test?

have you used this?
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gask...n_leak_test.htm

Yeah bleed the air out of your system and if the problem is still there then do a sniff test
as it looks like it's a head gasket problem

Mar 22, 2010 - 5:40 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #841801 · Replies: 36 · Views: 10,044
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QUOTE (rave2n @ Mar 22, 2010 - 8:35 AM) *
Hmm, well its Monday morning. It drove to work fine, with only one stutter.

Now I don't know what the heck its issue is. I havn't changed the regulator out, cause its still on the way, but why would it act near normal now?

Only thing i've done is replaced the fuel filter, and put some new NGK plugs in....

When replacing a fuel filter, does the effects of the correction take time before it comes into play?

It's possible that some of that contaminated fuel has gone through your filter causing it to stutter
where are you getting your fuel that there was brown stuff in the filter
most good fuel stations have decent filters on there tanks
I take it that you never replaced the fuel filter when doing a service on your car
what colour was the plugs you took out
I don't think it's your fuel reg thou

Mar 21, 2010 - 7:01 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #841568 · Replies: 7 · Views: 1,987
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QUOTE (RavenAegis45 @ Mar 21, 2010 - 5:28 PM) *
Alright thanks everyone turns out my timing belt was cracking the guy said it was close to going out, got it taken care of and the noise is gone =)

I hope you got your tensioner,idler bearing and water pump changed at the same time
as this is a must for this car.
it will cost you alot more if any of these fail

Mar 19, 2010 - 6:21 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #841228 · Replies: 36 · Views: 10,044
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QUOTE (rave2n @ Mar 19, 2010 - 5:29 PM) *
Alrighty, decided to go take another look.

When I got back to it, it wouldn't start. So I thought it was the pump, I go and start taking apart the pump, but I only managed to take all the screw outs and such and take a look at it, then I just put it back in. I made sure it was on, and attempted to start the car, it started this time with me only barely tapping the gas.

If I would try to do anything stronger then a tap on the gas while taking off it would stall out. When I managed to get the RPMs up enough to move it would be ok aslong as I didn't hit the gas hard at all. If it hit hard at all, it would start sputtering and dropping RPMs til it stalled out.

All in all, I got it home...very slowly, and stalled 3 times while holding the clutch and taking a turn, i assume from the PS pump taking power. Any Ideas guys? I'm leaning at the fuel pump, but am unsure on how to test if when it seems to be only half functioning.


Odd question, if you disconnect one of your rear light assembly, will it cause your blinker on the respective side to tick much faster?

Hi there
You should check that there is no leaks in your fuel pipes
I had a problem with mine and thought it was the pump
took out the pump to find it was working ok
check the fuel pump relay working ok
checked the fuel pump regulator working ok
then i went to put the fuel pump back in but had the tank full of fuel so decided to pump it out with it's own pump
on the workshop floor as I was doing this I noticed that there was a leak on the pipe as it came out of the tank
(rust) took it to my trusty welder and fixed the pipe
put the tank back in and problem fixed
now I'm not saying this is the case on your car but food for thought
But first check fuel filter
as far as the blinker goes I'd say bad ground

Mar 13, 2010 - 7:00 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #839935 · Replies: 12 · Views: 2,182
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QUOTE (Tumult5sfe @ Mar 13, 2010 - 2:08 PM) *
I had to do a head gasket some time back. put everything back together and went to start it but the battery was dead...so i slapped the charger on the thing and poof, my one ground wire that leads from driver side inner fender to engine went up in smoke. now the damn thing just sits and cranks all day long, i get plenty of fuel, not a strong spark but there is spark, and pretty much thats it.
so does anyone know what i may have to do? i grabbed another ecu thinking i cooked it, replaced the ground wire, and a few other odds and ends. also, when i turn the key off my fans kick on and the temp gauge pins hot, and they shut off when i flick the headlights on and off. Any help would be amazing.

Hi there
You say that you changed the head gasket
First thing i would do here is check that my timing marks were all ok
it's amazing how easy it is to put it all back together one notch out on the timing

Mar 5, 2010 - 7:23 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #838233 · Replies: 18 · Views: 5,489
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QUOTE (OnAllFours @ Mar 4, 2010 - 10:53 PM) *
By what you are describing, I wouldn't think head gasket. It sounds much more like a blockage to me. Did you put the T-stat in the right way? I know it sounds like a noob question to ask, but dumb stuff like that happens to everyone. Also could it be a possibility that when you had the system open you may have left a rag or something in one of the pipes.

What I'm getting at is not all overheating issues are head gaskets, in fact other than GM 3.1L V6 and 1.9L I4s we hardly ever have called a head gasket at my shop. I don't think I've ever seen a Toyota gasket go at all.

The 4 big signs of head gasket leaks are 1) coolant in the oil, a milky/pudding like mixture when you drain the oil. 2) oil in the coolant, the same pudding stuff in the overflow bucket/rad. 3) white smoke from the exhaust, this is burning coolant, you can tell if it's smoke instead of steam by how long it lingers in the air. 4) loss of coolant, but no visible sign of leak in the engine bay.

You have a few good points there but I'm afraid you have'nt had the problems that I've had
with blown head gaskets
I've seen two cases were the head gasket had blown through from the cylinder to the cooling
system and believe me there is no steam or white smoke out the exhaust
the pressure from the cylinder was too much for the cooling to enter the cylinder and would only show up with the car over heating put a sniff tester on it and bingo the fluid in the tester went green/yellow in a matter of minutes
trust me it doesn't matter what car you have if it over heats enough it will blow the head gasket and not necessarily through the oil/coolant

Mar 4, 2010 - 5:59 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #837997 · Replies: 18 · Views: 5,489
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QUOTE (chacha @ Feb 18, 2010 - 10:12 PM) *
everything is intact....what's left really is to check the head gasket

Hi there
I would say you need to do a hydracarbon test on your radiator
it takes less than 5 mins and will tell you if you have blown your head gasket
the theory behind this is that if the head gasket is blown from the cooling system and one of the cylinders
it will cause the coolant to react in this manner
get it checked soon before the head cracks as this will cost you alot more than this tester
check with your local motor store for a rad sniff tester or ebay

Mar 1, 2010 - 5:37 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #837272 · Replies: 3 · Views: 1,359
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QUOTE (3WayStunna @ Feb 12, 2010 - 8:39 PM) *
Early morning bump, anybody got any ideas?

Hi there
I had the same problem I replaced the fuel guge sender in the tank
It can be done from the boot (trunk)
remove the mat in the boot and on the left you will see a cover with 3 screws
underneath is the fuel sender with 4 screws holding it in
it's the only one you can get without having to take the tank out
replacing the fuel sender fixed my problem now it works fine
hope this helps

Feb 28, 2010 - 6:53 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #836989 · Replies: 14 · Views: 3,128
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QUOTE (Castrolman @ Feb 28, 2010 - 6:06 PM) *
QUOTE (enderswift @ Feb 28, 2010 - 2:39 PM) *
QUOTE
Do a sniffer test (Hydrocarbon) this will tell you if the head gasket is blown


lol. rlly?

if your worried about your head gasket then do a compression test


LOL really, Compression test will tell you the compression over the cylinders,hydrocarbon test will tell if the Head gasket is leaking or the block is cracked. smile.gif

I once fell into this trap
I checked the compression on all cylinders to find them all good between taking off intercooler and all that goes with it
and checking compression 1 hour later no wiser
then put it all back
Next checked the hyrdrocarbon test 5mins to find that head gasket had blown through to cooling system
and would only show up when engine was warm
but if this engine shows no sign of overheating after a drive of lets say 30 to 45mins i doubt there is anything wrong with it
just make sure you put coolant back in as water isnt the best when it comes to corrosion
also water freezes and that will crack your block if it does


Feb 27, 2010 - 5:42 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #836804 · Replies: 14 · Views: 3,128
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Hi there
first of all you should check that there is no oil in the rad
if the rad is fizzing up then you will need to check if it is carbon from the engine
there is a sniff tester out there that is cheap to buy called universal block tester you could probably pick one up off ebay
or you local motor store and is simple to use
it will let you know if the head gasket is gone through from the cylinder to the cooling system
as not all head gaskets go from the cooling system to the oil so saying that it's not gone if the oil is black is not true
but if the oil is a milky color then it is gone
hope this helps
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engine-Bloc...omotiveQ5fTools

Feb 14, 2010 - 4:18 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #834309 · Replies: 6 · Views: 4,485
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Hi folks problem is now solved
I took out the 3 fuses that resets the ecu
1 hazzard fuse 2 ecu fuse and 3 efi fuse
then i took out the battery and fully charged it
tightened up the fuel pipe out of the tank
and now it's going good
thanks to all that sent me info
smile.gif smile.gif

Feb 14, 2010 - 4:15 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #834308 · Replies: 6 · Views: 4,485
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Hi folks problem is now solved
I took out the 3 fuses that resets the ecu
1 hazzard fuse 2 ecu fuse and 3 efi fuse
then i took out the battery and fully charged it
tightened up the fuel pipe out of the tank
and now it's going good
thanks to all that sent me info
smile.gif smile.gif

Feb 10, 2010 - 5:52 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #833596 · Replies: 4 · Views: 1,543
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QUOTE (TRD_GT @ Feb 10, 2010 - 9:54 AM) *
Hey guys, i've got abit of a problem which i can't figure out, when i start the engine, it cranks, it sparks, it makes all the right noises but it just doesnt fire up, as in it goes through the whole ignition sequence fine but it just stays there, the engine is obviously cranking over but it just keeps crankin over without firing up, i have just under a quarter tank, battery and alternator are fine, the car was running perfect one day,and then the nxt it isnt..i cant figure it out,someone help, i got a date in 3 days and i need this fixed,thanx alot peepz..

Hi there
First try putting some easy start in the airbox to see if it's a fuel problem
if it makes an attempt to start it's a fuel related problem
first go to the front of the car and check the fuses then if they all check out try the fuel pump relay
it's in the fuses and relay box at the rad on the right

Feb 9, 2010 - 4:49 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #833378 · Replies: 6 · Views: 4,485
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QUOTE (Rav4Race @ Feb 8, 2010 - 6:02 AM) *
QUOTE (longgone @ Feb 6, 2010 - 3:13 PM) *
Hi
Can anyone tell me if they have a solution to this problem
the car cut out the other day and now wont start
It turns over but wont fire
I checked it with easy start and it fired straight away
So then I checked the fuel pump and it works then I tested the fuel relay and it seams ok
I checked the fuel pump resistor with a multimeter and it looks good
I went back to the fuel pump but don't have power to the pump even though the pump works fine when on a battery
anyone any ideas



If i were u...i would check the following...
-battery
-spark plugs
-spark wires
-ignition module
-fuel filter
-fuel pump
-fuel regulator
-check for fuel leaks aswell
-and at last make sure you r getting enough cold air...

if it still dont work, then it might be your ecu...

Hi dudes thanks for your comments
I checked the battery it's good
spark plugs are new and they spark
fuel filter is new
I took off the fuel pump and it works ok then when i was using it to empty the tank as I took the tank out without doing it
I noticed that there was a pin hole in the pipe from rust
so I got it repaired put it back in but still not pumping to front
so I checked for power at the fuel pump relay no power there
so I put a wire from the + on battery to the no 3 pin on the relay now car will start
so there is no broken wire from the relay to the pump
now I think it might be the ecu so tomorrow I'll have to check the fpr wire out of the ecu
anyone have anymore ideas need to get this goin soon

Feb 6, 2010 - 2:13 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #832668 · Replies: 6 · Views: 4,485
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Hi
Can anyone tell me if they have a solution to this problem
the car cut out the other day and now wont start
It turns over but wont fire
I checked it with easy start and it fired straight away
So then I checked the fuel pump and it works then I tested the fuel relay and it seams ok
I checked the fuel pump resistor with a multimeter and it looks good
I went back to the fuel pump but don't have power to the pump even though the pump works fine when on a battery
anyone any ideas


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