6G Celicas Forums

If you can manufacture these parts and provide details on how to install without pulling the arm assembly off, you will be providing a much needed solution to the age old SSS replacement problem.

This would be a great solution for those of us that are in North America. It is a pain to send 100 lbs of metal to Poland, wait for a rebuild and then pay for them to be shipped back.

Nick

This is the reason why with everything stock, boost in 1st and 2nd is limited. It is controlled by the TVSV.

You will boost higher in higher gears due to the higher loading in higher gears, but the reason you are reading that there is a difference is due to the TVSV.

I have a bolt-on st205 and boost in 1st and 2nd is around 10 psi, 13 psi in 3-5.

Nick

Cheapest way is to order them through this guy. He seems legit and I think a lot of people are using them. If you do happen to find out how to just swap the bushes/balljoints PLEASE let the rest of us know.

http://gt4-racing.eu/

Hope that helps a bit.

After you flush it out you may find that the code can come back in cold weather.

when you have the cap off and you're filling it up, blip the throttle to get the pump started and the level will go down a bit....then fill it some more.

First step, bottom end or top end? As Box mentioned top end noise is usually more of a ticking noise, while bottom end is much deeper sounding. A good way to diagnose for sure is by determining whether the noise is happening once per motor revolution, or twice. If the problem is camshaft/valvetrain related you should hear it happen twice per revolution, if that makes sense. If it is a bottom end issue ie rod knock, spun bearing, etc. you would only hear the knock happen once per revolution.

Step two, isolate the noise. Listen around in the engine bay. Try to get a general idea of where the noise is coming from. Once you get a decent idea, take a mechanic's stethoscope, or if you're cheap like me, a broom stick handle, screw driver or anything solid (make sure it's long enough to keep your important body parts away from moving parts) and move it around the engine listening for the knocking. If you can narrow it down to one cylinder, pull the plug wire out of that cylinder and see if that changes the noise. If the knocking goes away or gets quieter, that is the rod you are having issues with. If it doesn't go away, it could be a main bearing.

Don't forget to use the "stethoscope" on the bell housing to see if that's where the noise is coming from (or if it is louder there). I am thinking that it could be a flywheel based on your description of the shaking and how the rpms are dropping, but you will have to do some diagnosing to know for sure. A cracked/fubar'd flywheel could make noise regardless of whether the clutch is engaged, as it spins when the crank turns. If the noise sounds like it could be coming from the flywheel, pull the starter motor off and try to inspect the teeth on the flywheel for damage.

If you still can't isolate the noise after that, you should drain your oil, look for bits of metal, drop the oil pan and check it as well. While you have it off you can check the rod caps or any part of the crank assembly for play. Cutting the oil filter open could reveal bits of bearing as well.

HTH, good luck

edit: do you have access to an oil pressure gauge?

Should be right around 16-17 psi (1.1 bar). You need to adjust the duty slowly up until it reaches

This is from alltrac.net Seems to work well for most...

You'll actually have to drop the whole engine/tranny assembly to change the clutch. I think there is a way to do it without dropping the trans, but it isn't easy. gt40c has a detailed explanation.

I got quoted 24 hours to do a clutch job by vex in red deer, ab.

Nick

PMd you

Start with the easiest first. You got a new exhaust installed, could be an exhaust leak. That wouldn't explain the smoke from the tailpipe though.

Then work your way to the big stuff (rings, bearings, etc.)

I think that's the coolant inlet to the TB.

From the BGB:

Are you willing to sell just the rotors?

Nick

If you are looking to part out, I would be interested in any suspension parts/brake parts you have.

Are the superstrut arms in okay shape? Brake rotors/pads?

What struts/springs are you using?

If you're interested in parting, I wouldn't mind taking a look at a list of the stock/spare suspension and/or brake parts you have.

PM is best.

Nick

sweet thanks might pull the trigger on these.....9" wide wheel sounds delicious

Nick

Hey,

Just wondering if the fitment gurus could give me an idea of what I would need to do to get these to fit my st205? Will probably have to run stretched tires, but was wondering if anyone knew off the top of their head whether these will work?
Car is on stock suspension.

Wheels I am thinking about getting;

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/ptd/3899908116.html

Thanks
Nick

These cars run on the rich side stock for sure. Mine usually smells fine at idle, inside of my exhaust is usually black. It runs really rich on boost though

Also, keep in mind that there is no secondary cat on these cars, so a swapped DP means no catalytic converter = smells terrible.

If you want to be on the safe side, like others have said, use a wideband to check AFRs......if you know someone who tunes they probably have a sniffer you could clip to the exhaust outlet.

I personally wouldn't worry about it though.....they are supposed to run rich stock.

Boost should be ~13psi in all gears except 1st (maybe 2nd as well....been a while since I've driven the GT4).

For the boost gauge, tee off of the blocked off port on the bottom and middle of the IM. DO NOT use the line the MAP sensor is reading from.

Nick

Rumor is that no, they do not split apart from the arms. Although I'm convinced that there has to be a solution out there. I have personally never tried it, but if you could do it and were able to find suitable replacement ball joints you would be my (and everyone else in N/A with an st205) hero.

For all three arms on both sides plus the hub ball joint for both sides, I have gotten quoted between $1,900 and $2,800 for parts only

One of the downsides to having such a rare car.....parts are $$$ and knowledge on quick/cheap fixes is very limited.

I have a Berk downpipe for sw20 with gen 3 3sgte, custom mid, 3" kakimoto cat back and a high flow 100 cell magnaflow cat (welded into the midpipe).

All in it cost me around $1,000 CDN.

It is really loud. I like it.....I think a lot of people wouldn't though.

Easiest/cheapest way is probably to buy the downpipe, the get the rest made custom....at least up here it would be cheapest.

Make sure the exhaust is mandrel bent and not crush bent.

The necessity of cooling charge air between the turbo/supercharger and the engine is more a function of boost pressure than the actual method of compressing the air.

Boyle's law.....PV = nRT

The greater the pressure (given everything else is constant), the higher the temperature.

Altitude also plays a factor in idle vacuum.

In Calgary (elev. approx. 1,000 m) my car idled at around 16 in when warmed up.

In Vancouver (sea level) I consistently get around 19-20.

Yes it can be done (and has been done by auto makers many many times), but like everyone else has said, it isn't advised. There are ways to "intercool" charge air without one though....for example water injection.

That said, it's going to depend on the pressure ratio you are running the compressor at, as well as where on the efficiency island a certain turbo/pressure ratio/engine combo will land you.

Use this link and (if you can find one) a compressor map for the turbocharger you are thinking about running and do the math yourself.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

If you do decide to intercool, I would opt for an intercooler with the least pressure loss available over running one with a higher thermal efficiency. If the pressure loss is too high, you can cause the pressure in the exhaust manifold to be high enough to cancel out the performance benefits of the I/C. Just my 2c though.

Nothing will be a substitute for a proper tune though. I would rather run modest boost and no intercooler with good AFRs than just slap an I/C on a setup that isn't properly tuned. They both are not ideal, but IMO the margin of safety is higher with a good tune.

Assuming this is for N/A application? or F/I (more specifically turbo)?

I don't really have any hate for anyone into modifying their cars.......taste is subjective. Something may not be my style, but to each their own.

My biggest pet peave is really just how arrogant most "tuners" (and I use that term VERY loosely) are. They learn how to do an oil change or change their pads and all of the sudden everyone else in the world is an idiot.

Cars (more specifically modifying cars) are meant for enjoyment. That's it. Once it turns into a "look at that ricer over there" scene, it's not fun anymore. Maybe that guy is a "ricer", maybe we're all "ricers".....I have respect for people that do things to satisfy themselves, not the all-to-common, desperate for approval by their peers mob mentality that most seem to have now adays.

I respect passion and ingenuity and people who are honest with themselves about why they do what they do to their car. I don't have time for a-holes who don't do anything but JDM their car up and talk **** about everyone who doesn't.

My st205 has a 3" DP (Berk), 3" mid-pipe with 100 cell magnaflow cat, and 3" kakimoto exhaust (exhaust tip is around 700mm I think...very big).

I don't have sound clips but I can tell you that it's loud as hell.

I set off this one guy's car alarm in my parking garage every time I start it up. Not revving it, just cold idle.

I also have a tendency to set off car alarms of people parked on the side of the street if I give it more than about 50% throttle.

Exhaust pops quite nicely when off and then back on throttle.

Very throaty sound. I like it, but it gets a bit old after a while when you just want to go from A to B.

The difference in (apparent) power is definitely there. The turbo spools so much faster than with the stock dp/cat/exhaust.

I do not have boost creep issues.



Edit: There is a russian video on youtube that lets you hear the exhaust from an st205 (kakimoto)....just search kakimoto st205.

No FMIC.....it has the same top-mount W2A charge cooler as the non-WRC's.

The "sprayer" he is referring to is 3 nozzles in the bumper that point towards the chargecooler's heat exchanger. There are much easier ways to tell whether it is a WRC though.

Just pop the hood, look at the charge cooler, and look for a canister with a bunch of Japanese writing on it sticking off of it instead of just a hose.

VIN will be < 5000....they only made 2,500 but it wasn't the first 2,500 to roll off the line. You have a 50% chance of getting a WRC with a VIN <=5,000

Most noticeable difference will be the anti-lag valve on the chargecooler. (passenger side, front).

Turbo heat shield is slightly different as mentioned, and there will be a little hood spoiler near the windshield on the hood.

Like I said though, easiest way to tell is the anti-lag canister on the charge cooler.