6G Celicas Forums

I got my iTouch 3G 32GB stuck between the seat and centre console on Sunday (I only realized it today), and when I tried to get it out, the screen snagged on the seat rail and I heard the crunch

I hope that the extra warranty I purchased from Future Shop will cover it, but I've read on other forums that they don't cover "intentional" damage to the screen :{

Well, I stayed late after work tonight and pulled the bumper off. I used a high quality silicone caulking that we often use for gasket corners. It holds really well, only it takes a bit to set. It took me about an hour and a half to get it off, and about 40mins to get it back on. Changed the fog light bulbs as I was there.

The only really annoying part about it was that all my plastic shields underneath the car are really butchered at the fastening points, so it's a bit of a hassle to get that back together Also the two bolts by the fog lights took forever and resulted in a nice hand cramp.

Lots of effort for something that nobody but me will notice, but at least that's one thing off the "I should do that sometime" list...

Thanks guys!

My guess is there was some corrosion on the solenoid terminals causing an intermittent short.

Fixed my annoying loose headlamp rubbers.

As with all 6GC's my headlight rubber on my right side low beam lens has begun to fall out. I have tried to spread a bit of silicone on it and slip it back over the light, but that didn't hold. I want to pull the whole lens out but I'm not quite sure how they are supposed to come out. I've got the bolt from behind the turn signal, and whatever I can find up top, and it feels loose, but it doesn't come out. Do I have to move the fender or bumper? Does it just slide out? What am I missing?

Thanks it advanced!

Showed the GT-Four today, got lots of good comments and lots of people were checking her out. All in all I spent a good 8 hours straight out in the hot sun in a black t-shirt and walking around most of the time. I feel kinda funny now

Oh yeah, and I washed + waxed her last night in the dark. In the morning I found a few spots of wax that I missed, but the paint feels nice and smooth now

It sounds to me like the new compressor is seizing. I wouldn't run the A/C until you get it and the drier replaced again. If you take it to the shop they should do it under warranty.

TRD SS is in! Feels great!

TRD Quick Shifter came in the mail today. Will be installed tomorrow

You likely have a malfunctioning overrunning clutch in your starter. What the overrunning clutch does is it keeps torque flowing through the starter gear in one direction, i.e. it lets only the starter push on the flex plate/flywheel, rather than the flex plate apply torque to the starter. When the clutch receives torque from the flex plate it pulls the starter gear back in to the starter housing.

You could have either a bad clutch or a short to power in the "hold in" winding circuit.

The neutral safety switch will cut power to the starter control relay if it is acting up, so these sound like two completely different issues to me.

Could have an intermittent missfire issue. If you have or know someone who does have a lab scope on hand, I'd be scoping your ignition coils to see if the dwell waveform looks okay.

The other day I bought a TRD Quck Shifter Set off Ebay. Some guy in Hong Kong selling lightly used Japanese parts who had a "power seller" rating and a 100% satisfaction rate had it up for $230 USD, so I figured I'd grab it

Then today I noticed my power folding mirror on the driver's side (RHD) was getting caught up on itself. I may need to pull the mirror off and figure out how to shim/re-mount it

Go to a Rally America race and hang out around the pits/service area. That's the best way to get involved/learn about any motorsport.

A fuel issue will cause the engine to bog off the line, and the revs will drop noticeably. Doesn't sound like fuel to me.



Clutch sounds more like it. Possibly a bit of an oil leak in your transmission housing that builds up as you warm up the car causing the clutch to slip. Then after you try to drive it a bit, the heat of slipping burns up the oil and it goes away.

If it's an automatic, it may be an issue of the shift solenoids not getting the right information from the PCM due to issues with the swap.

If it's a manual just try pulling the boot off where the clutch linkage enters the transmission. Have a look inside, it should be dry with a bit of dust buildup from the clutch (which is normal). If there is fluid build up anywhere or even if it's damp with oil then you will likely have a slippage issue, and you need to look at doing a seal job. If it's dry then just make sure the boot is properly seated again and we'll have to try a different approach.

Nice car dude!

I've got a cat back Blitz Nur Spec system and it sounds absolutely Godly! Hope you enjoy it

Well, I've only owned my car since fall last year, and despite driving on the most cop infested roads in my area twice a week to get to school, I've only been pulled over once. I was being a big time idiot and I was lucky to get away with a stern warning, but I learned my lesson. Just tonight I passed three cops that were "camping" and despite the big WRC wing, TRD skirts and spats, and a big loud BLITZ cat back they didn't take notice.

My bro-in-law however was not so lucky. He has a Mitsubishi EVOII and was driving within reasonable speeds and a cop who did not seem to understand the concept of RHD cars thought that no one was driving, and without noting the fact that my bro-in-law made a lane change complete with blind spot check and signaling while being tailed by said cop. When he got pulled over the cop had already called in another cruiser for backup and the three officers took upwards of half an hour going over his car trying to find something to pin him with. Luckily they did not check his DRLs because I know for a fact he does not have them, and he was let go after the whole ordeal.

My GT-Four has a sunroof

Yeah, the 4 piston fixed calipers on the GT-Four/Supra are mounted on the rear of the spindle, whereas these look like 2 piston floating calipers and are mounted on the front. Also the stilts for the spoiler are definitely not OE, the seats are leather (AFAIK they were cloth only on the GT-Four), and is it just me or does the paint on the hood and front bumper not match the fenders? It seems to ride a bit high too, at least compared to the GT-Four sitting in my driveway.

I don't want to call you out if it really is a GT-Four, but these inconsistencies just don't add up to me. If you want to dress up a GT or ST as a GT-Four that's fine by me, but claiming it is one goes to far in my books.

Awesome guys! Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it. I figured they'd be pricey, but w/e.

Cool, thanks mate!

I'll give my importer a call tomorrow and he should be able to get me a pair of 'em pretty quick. I'm going down south this week so I won't be needing this stuff very quickly anyway.

I'll give you a ring about those bushings tomorrow... also does anyone know if I need to get lower control arms with these figure 8s?

I was backing up out of the parking lot at my work, when I heard a good creak from my front right suspension. I put it up on the hoist at the end of the day and started pulling on stuff. I first found my rear sway bar bushings were both a bit sloppy, and then I yanked on the front cradle and right away found the little links from the lower strut mount to the forward control arm were squeaking. I tried pulling back the dust boot and spraying some chassis grease in it, but it was still noisy. Maybe it's just the temperature change and it's just temporary, but I'm so picky about my car I'll replace both anyway.

Anyway, my question is; when I call around to find these front links, what do I call them? To me, they are "lower strut mount - to - control arm" links, but something tells me people won't know what that is. Also where the joint attaches to the control arm it looks like there is part of the joint inside the arm, and I may have to replace the arm as well. Can anyone confirm?

And one last thing, if I want to put polyurethane bushings on the rear sway bar, what's a good manufacturer and what #s do I need?

Thanks a lot in advance guys! Once I get the parts I'll make a tutorial on the installation side of things

I haven't looked into the 6th Gens, but I know that with the 5th Gens the big issue with the swap is that there is no driveshaft tunnel in the FWD chassis. So essentially you need to strip the car down pretty well to just the bare frame, and then custom fabricate your own tunnel. There was a guy I think in the Thunder Bay area up here, who wanted to do a GT-Four drivetrain conversion on his Convertible. Instead of doing the tunnel thing he just wanted to buy a whole GT-Four chassis and then transplant the convertible body onto it.

As with importing and registering a GT-Four, it's possible, but is it worth the hassle?

By what you are describing, I wouldn't think head gasket. It sounds much more like a blockage to me. Did you put the T-stat in the right way? I know it sounds like a noob question to ask, but dumb stuff like that happens to everyone. Also could it be a possibility that when you had the system open you may have left a rag or something in one of the pipes.

What I'm getting at is not all overheating issues are head gaskets, in fact other than GM 3.1L V6 and 1.9L I4s we hardly ever have called a head gasket at my shop. I don't think I've ever seen a Toyota gasket go at all.

The 4 big signs of head gasket leaks are 1) coolant in the oil, a milky/pudding like mixture when you drain the oil. 2) oil in the coolant, the same pudding stuff in the overflow bucket/rad. 3) white smoke from the exhaust, this is burning coolant, you can tell if it's smoke instead of steam by how long it lingers in the air. 4) loss of coolant, but no visible sign of leak in the engine bay.

I looked at the wiring diagrams on our computer database at work and none of these have a common relay.

As I said before, the first thing to do is to one by one start pulling fuses from the junction blocks. If you pull one and the issue is still there then put it back in and go to the next one. If you pull one and the problem stops, then you know the circuit that is providing the power to whatever stopped working is connected to that fuse. Then if you can get a wiring diagram you can unplug connectors at whatever loads are in that circuit one at a time. Same idea, once the issue stops, you trace the power wires from that harness back to the fuse and somewhere in between there will be your short.

If however you go through all your fuses and the issue still does not stop, then I think what may be happening is that you are somehow getting power fed through your chassis which is then connecting backwards through your ground wires and making a closed circuit. We just had a 4Runner at work that had this happening to the rear wiper motor. Unfortunately I wasn't the one who worked on it, but I could ask the guy who did for more ideas.

If you need me to look up wiring schematics for you just let me know.

I was thinking more along the bone stock lines, but yeah as far as a tuning platform goes the 3S-GE is better.