6G Celicas Forums

It definitely has heat in the cabin, it'll roast me out with no problem at all. Didn't bleed the system, as there is no bleeder that I can see. I guess i was under the assumption that air would work its way out and through the overflow tank in time. The one I believe to be faulty is the single wire coming in to the instrument cluster, but both could be failing with the miles that are on it anyway.

Great idea on hooking up the scanner, never crossed my mind to check it that way. I've got a wifi unit from amazon that works with my phone; if you don't have one, they are well worth the $15-$25 that they run.

Thermostat was replaced when I did head gasket, timing belt, and water pump (i.e. this job that was causing me headaches).

Update: It lives!! thanks for all the help. Issue turned out to be timing. Thought I had everything in time, but when i turned the crank to take the slack out of the belt, I was jumping it ahead about 5 degrees. Temp gauge is still hit and miss though. one night it read right about mid-range the whole 15 mile drive (even after sitting at idle for half an hour) and the next it decided to read up near the hot mark after just a couple of miles. Temp would go back down to mid almost instantaneously if I made the car downshift or just upped the RPMs revving in neutral. Wondering if that sensor is bad and may have been the real problem the whole time. (Although I'm sure timing belt and water pump needed changing anyway just due to the miles on it)

thanks for the replies guys, hopefully I can get to it next weekend and see what I can find out. Gotta love rotating shifts where you end up working 6 12s in a row

Timing was down bc the engine has almost 300k miles and likely hasn’t been done since 100k Miles. Also water pump seemed to be failing, so may as well while I was in there. It was claimed to be over heating, but still capable of a 150+ mike drive with no problems, so I would assume that means it was just going higher than the halfway point on the temp gauge. Wondering about warped head, but really don’t want to tear it back down if I don’t have to.

Well finally got the pigtail in for the temp sensor, its wired back up. And got a tester to do cylinder compression test. Results were not reassuring or I wasn't able to get the tester in the cylinders correctly. Only tested cyl 1 and 2, but both had results of around 60 psi. So what would cause such low compression? Head was torqued to spec when reinstalled, but could a bit more tightening help? We even used that copper spray stuff when we put the new head gasket on to help it seal better.

Well if the wiring was broken loose from the sensor and/or i wasn't able to get a good connection on my temporary fix, then I guess this would be the case. Put brand new plugs in it, all gapped to about 0.44

Correct on the coil packs and they were numbered on them anyway. making it very difficult to screw up. I called it quits at about 9:00 on night #2, so I'll have to wait till after my rotation of midnights before I can get back to it. Haven't had a chance to pull the plugs yet, but plan to after Christmas when I get a day off. I checked the timing half a dozen times to be sure it was correct. There are two single punch marks in close proximity to each other on both cams. I set it with one set together and the other set, positioned above the first, looked like they would meet when they came around. Went through probably a dozen times checking electrical pulgs, the only one I am concerned about though is the coolant temp sensor. I found it had one wire broken off and the other broke as I was unplugging the connector. they are currently rigged into place after some dismantling of the plug to get the pins out for use, but I cant say they have the greatest connection. Could a coolant temp sensor cause the engine to not start??? I've got a new pigtail on the way. Fuses and relays have been checked. I do not have a compression check tool, so by saying it has compression, I mean that it took some muscle to try and turn the motor when it was on the compression stroke. would ether still ignite if the plugs are fouling out due to too much fuel or ether in the cylinders?

it literally sat for 2 days. Day one was tear down, day two was reassemble and it wouldnt start that night. I will have to look into the IAC. We tried no throttle, full throttle, pumping the throttle and results did not change. Pump is supposedly newer, and the fact that i can hear it run lends me to believe that it might be working, but it could've crapped out. Coolant temp sensor did give me issues. Or at least I think thats which one it was. It was a 2 wire plug and the 300k mile, almost 20 year old, brittle wires broke at the base of the connector so I had to make that work in a different way. I think I got it connected well enough that it should work, but maybe i need to order a pigtail. I'll have to try that trick for the injectors, although I bet my wife's old stethoscope would work great for that.

Recently did some work on my mother-in-law's car. Not a Celica, but a '99 Camry with a 5S so it should be close enough that diagnosis on here may be helpful. I replaced the head gasket, put on new timing belt and water pump, got everything back together and now the car just won't start. At first it would start to hit on ether, but then it eventually quit with that so at this point it may be flooded out, but not entirely sure. I am wonder if its possibly not getting fuel. Timing is good, did it by the book and i checked everything half a dozen times to be sure. It has compression and is also getting spark. Any ideas as to what would cause it not to start and/or how to remedy a possibility of air in the fuel lines? I can hear the fuel pump running after trying to turn the engine a few times, so it should at least be sending fuel up front, but I don't know if its getting to the injectors yet or not. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated and helpful.

20 year old car with 100k miles Most around here are well over the 200k mile mark by now. Anything with 100k or less is less than 10 years old anymore.

My problems with the older econoboxes come when things break faster than I can get the time or afford to fix them. Between myself and my wife, we have 6 cars. None of which are owed anything on and the newest of which is a 2015 Honda. My celica leaks/burns too much oil to be feasible as a daily anymore (plus the oil making its way onto the pass side rotor makes it unsafe in the rain). Her cobalt is.. well, a cobalt (i despise working on that thing because they made something so simple as changing a thermostat almost impossible without removing half the wiring harness). Then theres the winter beater '94 civic that has yet to be proven. bought it for cheap and have put more than what we paid for the thing into neglected maintenance undoing things that went bed when somebody half-assedly lowered it. Finally with the 2 projects. One of which is a do it whenever, the other more of a "I really need to get that one on the road". '68 Impala and '83 Yota pickup.. 10 year old cars are cheap enough to pickup and usually fairly reliable, but even then they start to fit into that area where you cant do **** with them because of how complicated the electronics have become.

Oh these cars can definitely be saved, but at what point do you stop throwing money at a car thats seen years of neglect and just move on to something newer? I love my celica even though it could use a lot of work, but I also dont daily it anymore. Some of these cheap 90's jap cars are getting to the point that the value is so low, it cant be justified to keep sinking money into them.. What started out as a rant on how modern cars have become impossible to mod (at least in comparison to the extent of cars from 20 yrs ago) has somehow turned into a discussion about how any car can be saved as long as the unibody is still sound. Things like changing out a stereo now require a specialized scan tool and online registration through a manufacturer database to be done at your local rapist er, dealership. yes, some of these older cars are worth saving, but if one were to buy a winter beater, at what point would you just say "screw it, im not fixing this new problem bc ive already thrown $xxx at this car and its not worth that".. the progression of this thread has taken a few interesting turns.

Its the little things they used to do that they don't anymore that will make you crazy. My celica didn't come with fog lights, but the harness is completely there and all it took was hooking up the fogs and swapping the multifunction for one with the fog light switch. My newer car is not that simple to do. You want to add a feature like that, then you gotta add all the wiring and everything. Just a PITA anymore.. the only problem with these 20 yr old econoboxes is that they are starting to get so high mileage and age on em that they are becoming more expensive to maintain than they are worth. Oil leaks, oil burning, rust, worn out suspension and steering, years of neglect from previous owners, its all adding up and taking its toll on the easy to mod and very reliable cars of the yesteryears...

I can understand trying to keep theft down, but a simple code used to suffice for that. Its jsut annoying when a manufacturer listens to its customers about what they would want changed/added, then make it incompatible with an earlier version of the same car. That would have been the equivalent of Toyota using something like incompatible headlights between the pre and post facelift on the Celica. (I know, bad example, but its all i can think of after working a long night shift)

Just wanted to rant about how newer cars are becoming less and less customizable. Honda has done a mid-life refresh of my current car that has a few little odds and ends I would LOVE to have on mine, but such things are impossible because of how stupid auto manufacturers have become. This refresh includes a new, much cleaner layout for the gauge cluster as well as an updated infotainment system. The new cluster looks better, but swapping is not possible due to everything they have routed through it (think new safety features, adaptive cruise, etc.) and forget about trying to update the odometer. The new infotainment, however, is the best upgrade to the whole damn car. It's amazing how something so simple as bringing back a volume knob instead of a stupid sliding feature on a touchscreen (and Apple Car Play) will make you envious. And of course that can no longer be swapped as modern units are coded to the cars computer and VIN. Stupid, stupid, stupid.. Whatever happened to the easiness of swapping out newer parts for newer features without needing a coding expert or dealership to make it work? I fear the golden age of easy customization and upgrading is behind us... Rant over... for now.

It its pouring out the smoke, theres oil getting into the cylinders somehow. I would guess rings are done. Bearings could explain the noise, but not the smoke.

I have the Haynes manual and it has fog wiring for 4th gen, but diagrams for 6th gen don't show fog lights whatsoever. I bought factory fogs. The multiswitch that has the fog light switch on it currently runs around $75-$100 on ebay and I really don't want to pay that for a switch. I have a toggle switch I can use, but unlike Malpaso's sticky thread, I still want to use the relay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-CBS-1007-...9c0&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-CBS-1007-...cbf&vxp=mtr

Anybody got anything on this???? I've looked at wiring diagram after wiring diagram and found nothing.

just got a set of factory fogs for my '97 ST and trying to figure out what to do to wire them up. I really want to use a relay but don't want to fork out the near $100 for a new switch. Does anybody know if the wiring for the fog lights leading into and out of the switch can be cut and routed to a simple toggle switch? If so, what are the wires needed? So i need to know what color wires are coming from the relay to the factory switch and the wires from the factory switch to the fog lights.

I'll have to take a pic this weekend, but I'm coming up on 250k miles on my 97 7a with an unnecessary, precautionary rebuild at 230k.

The Toyota/BMW joint op is focused on a hybrid motor. Toyota doesn't even know what motor they want to use in the possible production version of this yet, but highly doubtful it'll be the hybrid they are working with BMW on. At least for the sake of the car this one might have to live up to, I hope the put a real motor in it with at least one turbo and not a hybrid.

Correction: the '99 Cobra had IRS and people were almost constantly dropping the solid rear for the IRS.

The 2015 is great and horrible in many ways. Love the IRS. Hate that the rear quarters look like the Camaro, they dropped the iconic side vents, and the aston style grill. However, i love the idea of the turbo 4-cyl. Thanks Ford for bringing back the 240SX.

Body cross between classic Mustang and Charger. Powered by LSx, supercharged..... drool....
click here!

Anybody have any newer info on this joint venture? I read about it over a year ago and haven't really heard much news since. Rebirth of the Supra?

http://jalopnik.com/5922231/bmw+toyota-tea...is-melting-down

also known as hell week.. but hey, after today i get to spend the weekend doing nothing and fishing, put new tires on my car monday, and finally get started putting my gf's mustang back together when rockauto sends me the right crank.. and then i get to do this all again for at least another year. yay!!