6G Celicas Forums

I went to the junkyard and found some really nice leather seats beige in color. anyone interested if i dont get these myself? The interior of the car is really nice. Only 73k miles! Forgot to get pictures but i didn't see any major damage on the seats. I would hate to see this car get crushed with the nice seats. There's other stuff too that I could consider picking up for someone but I see that turning into a mess with me buying stuff and shipping to like 30 people lol. I don't think I can get the seats shipped but if someone wants to pick them up from me or meet me half way to somewhere and hook me up with a little extra cash then I could do it for the trip. Just make an offer so I can ask the guy when I go sometime next week...

So one my local junkyards just got in a Celica 25th anniversery addition 5 speed celica from the looks of it it has a 7a. I was thinking if anyone on here needed some parts off of it I could pull them for you or find out the price and shipping and such and the pull it for you. PM if your imtrested. I looked over it today and the inside is pretty nice no lie and the outside doesn't have any damage.

I'll take pics of whatever if you like!

i have a 1995 Celica GT Vert that has a 5 speed manual that is missing 5th gear. it is far from stock so has a lot of after market parts aswel as stock items, please look at my thread for details by clicking here.

i have some modded Supra side skirts..... $300 shipped (extra for international)
invader front and rear bumpers.... make offer
5th gen mirrors.... $100 shipped (extra for international)
stock power mirrors.... make offer
18" wheels and tyres.... $500 no shipping sorry
e-bay intake... $60 shipped (extra for international)
custom projectors..... $375 shipped (extra for international)
clear JDM highs.... $350 shipped (extra for international)
Z3 fenders.... $100 plus shipping (extra for international)
front mounted intercooler.... $150 shipped with modified crash bar if wanted. (extra for international)
black leather interior.... make offer, no shipping sorry.
Curren tail lights.... $180 shipped (extra if international)
adjustable lowering kit 4-8inch drop... make offer....

open to offers (resonable) on everything so please feel free to hit me up

plus the whole car (except the transmission) is open for parts so if you need something make me an offer i can't say no to, reply on here or you can call or text me on (559) 972-3877

also available is my 6GC.NET california license plates if interested...

Just a couple of things I have laying around in my garage.


Pair of Kenwood KFC-X138 speakers. These are Brand New without Box. $40+shipping



Eurostar Carbon Fiber shift knob - GOOD LUCK finding this ANYWHERE! Threads right on to any Toyota or Subaru. Not some universal garbage. Real Carbon Fiber all around. Threaded it onto my shifter once to confirm fitment, but never used. MSRP is $100. I'm asking $60+shipping



Here is a shot of the same shift knob in my first Celica. Sold it with the car and it took me 4 years to find another.

Re-edited now, parting out everything. Just ask.
95' Toyota Celica ST shell. M/T Hatchback. (part out)


Tons of parts everything still intact just taken apart.











These are a little older and its a little more faded now and dirty.




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[A] series engine M/T swap, Includes bracket, pedal, shiftlinkage, reserivor & pump, lines to Slave cylinder, shifter and base + spring.
Complete for your Auto to M/T swap for a 7A or 4A engines $125 shipped. Off a '95 ST


Brake booster reservoir and pump $75 shipped


Front Motor Mount and Rear $30 shipped


Drivers side and Passengers (SOLD)
$50

Spoiler 2-Post red $80 shipped SOLD



Ignition lock, cylinder + keys, Full adjustable steering column
$80 shipped.


Drivers airbag or Passengers airbag
SOLD

KYB-GR2 shocks w/ Dropzone springs 2.0" F and 1.8" R (cartridge inserts for front and Actual for rear) Less than 10K miles, just been sitting for a long time on jackstands [Sold as set]

$200 shipped.

Fuel Door SOLD
$25 shipped

Side folding mirrors not powered
$30 shipped or both sides for $50 shipped

Wiper Motor

$35 shipped

Misc interior pieces here and there

$20-100 depending on size and shipping.

Low Beams SOLD

High beams SOLD


Blower motor unit

$50 shipped

AC cabin unit

$55 shipped

Heater Core and full assembly $60 shipped Up for grabs again


If you guys wanted the parts and don't contact me after a week of reserving i'm putting it up for grabs again. Thanks.

Over the past few days, I've finally had time to touch my car after months of not being able to work on it because of school and work.

A while ago, I came across a good deal on an AE111 ECU. I bought the ECU, and have been working to get my silvertop 4A-GE running on the new ECU. This thread will document some parts of the AE111 conversion.

First things first, I had to get the old wiring out of the car. Because of my stupid old wiring setup, the harness was squeezed between the intake manifold and valve cover, so I had to remove the valve cover to get the harness out.

[attachment=813:removing_stuff.jpg]

Then I removed the passenger seat and parts of the dash for easy access to the ECU and body harness plugs.

[attachment=814:old_unde...h_wiring.jpg]

I took notes of where every wire went on the ECU plugs and body harness plugs, and I then proceeded to start unlooming the harness. Some things had to be cut, so I took good notes and labeled wires before I cut them.

[attachment=815:removing_stuff2.jpg]

I continued removing stuff...I found it easier to work with the throttle cable and stuff out of the way. Individual throttle bodies...mmmmm...

[attachment=816:itbs.jpg]

Finally, I got the entire harness unloomed. As I took notes and unloomed the harness, I came across some interesting things. First off, my knock sensor was spliced into a ground wire before it made it to the ECU...I'm sure that wasn't good. Also, my oxygen sensor was wired incorrectly, with both white wires of the Bosch four-wire oxygen sensor going to the HT pin on the AE101 ECU. Also, the black ground wire of the oxygen sensor was grounded to a chassis ground point, not the sensor ground pin on the ECU.

Here is the unloomed harness. You can see some of my notes on this photo. I took tons of notes so that I could put everything back to the way it was if desired.

[attachment=817:wiring_u...d_in_bay.jpg]

Once I had everything unloomed, I began modifying the harness to suit my new ECU, which has a significant number of changes as far as where wires go on the ECU plugs. Also, I had to remove the AFM plug and add plugs for an intake air temperature sensor (that I got from a fifth gen. Celica ST) and a manifold absolute pressure sensor (that I got from a sixth gen. Celica ST.) None of the body harness plugs had to be changed, except for the circuit opening relay, which now gets its FC signal from the ECU, rather than the AFM on the old setup.

To minimize soldering joints and keep things clean, I de-pinned my ECU plugs, removed un-necessary wires, and moved pins around. I highly recommend that you do this, as it keeps things clean and it's easy once you know how to de-pin those plugs.

For most Toyota plugs, there is a lock that pries up with something small and pointy, like a safety pin. This must be pulled up before pins can be removed.

[attachment=818:depinning_plugs1.jpg]

On a Honda plug (I found my 22-pin ECU plug from a '94 or '95 Honda Accord because I couldn't find a suitable one on a Toyota,) the locks are different, and are simply flaps at the back of the plug that must be pried open, like in the photo below.

[attachment=819:honda_pl...progress.jpg]

Once the lock is unlocked, you can see tabs in the side opposite of the wires (the side that plugs into whatever...in my case, the ECU.) These tabs must be pried up with something like a safety pin, and then once they're up, the pins will pull out from the wire-side of the plug. It takes some patience to get the hang of it, or at least it did for me, but once you've got it figured out it becomes easy.

And by the way, the pins just push right back in and snap into place. And I found that the Toyota pins are not interchangeable with the Honda pins. And also, the pins vary in size and not every pin will work in every connector, or even in different parts of the same connector.

With the ECU plug pins moved, I completed most of the connections on my harness. I then triple checked all of my connections, tracing them out by hand and with the multimeter to ensure correctness. Once I was pretty confident that my wiring was correct, I taped the harness up a bit, plugged everything in, and prepared to hook up the battery and start up the car.

I hooked up the battery and listened and looked for anything out of the ordinary, like wires getting hot or burning, etc. Everything seemed fine, so I put the car in diagnostic mode. To do this, you short the TE1 pin on the ECU to the E1 ECU pin, at least in my case, because I removed my diagnostic box. Once in diagnostic mode, I turned the car to on, but didn't start it yet. The check engine light began flashing, indicating that I have a code 21, or a miswired oxygen sensor.

After talking with Dr. Tweak, he kindly told me that I shouldn't have had both white wires of the oxygen sensor wired to the HT ECU pin, and that one of the wires should go to ignition power. Once I made the change, my code went away, and I had no more codes, which is indicated by a constantly quick flashing check engine light when in diagnostic mode.

With no more codes, it was time to start the car. I made sure all my wiring was out of the way, vacuum lines were in order, etc., and then I cranked the car, and it fired right up instantly. I ran around ensuring that everything looked normal and nothing was burning or acting strangely, and then I let the ECU adjust itself over a period of a few minutes. At this point, the bay looked like this.

[attachment=820:first_time_running.jpg]

With wires everywhere and things like the IAT and MAP sensors just sitting there, I couldn't drive the car, so I just revved the car a couple times, and wow, the sound of the open throttle bodies is amazing.

Everything seemed to be in order, so I turned the car off, checked for codes again in diagnostic mode, and found none. I then removed the battery and removed the harness so that I could finish it up and loom everything up.

Before the weekend, my velocity stacks arrived, so I had to modify them to fit my intake manifold.

[attachment=821:modded_v...y_stacks.jpg]

As you can see, the place where the holes were was cut, so that now there are notches. This was done because the holes didn't match the holes on my intake manifold, which are a little bit further apart than the velocity stacks.

I then bolted them on, loomed up the harness, cleaned up some vacuum line routing, installed the VVT plug and OEM Toyota coil (from a ST164 Celica with a 3S-GE,) and then hooked the battery back up. When all of this was done, the bay still wasn't complete, but it was clean enough to go for a drive.

[attachment=822:running_..._harness.jpg]

So I started the car, checked for codes, found none, and proceeded to let the car warm up and adjust itself. Once adjusted and warmed up, I went for a drive, with mixed emotions.

First off, the car absolutely screams at wide open throttle. The sound of the air rushing through the velocity stacks and into the individual throttle bodies at full throttle is indescribable. It's crazy loud and sounds kind of like DOHC VTEC on steroids. As you reach the 6700 RPM to 8000 RPM range, the noise is deafening. And it's not just loud and mean sounding, but at WOT, it is fast...much faster than before!

That said however, the car is running like crap. At partial throttle, the car has virtually no power, and when you do floor it you don't get instant throttle response like before. Instead, the car feels like it bogs down and hesitates for a moment, and then it gets fast and runs well until redline. Also, the idle remains at 1500 RPM.

I'm pretty sure it's a vacuum issue, and this is the point that I'm stuck at right now. Here is my current vacuum setup.

[attachment=823:vacuum_lines.jpg]

First off, take note of vacuum spot circled in yellow. First, I had that spot connected to a line, to a metal tube, to another line, to another metal tube, and finally to another smaller rubber line that was open. When I first had the car running on the new ECU, this was how it was, and the car idled at 900 RPM just as it should and revved just fine.

So when I was removing extra vacuum lines, I removed the extra lines and tubes and crap from that vacuum spot that eventually just were open. But I'm thinking that the smaller line that eventually just went to the atmosphere must have restricted airflow a bit.

This vacuum spot initially went to the intake manifold plenum, after the AFM and before the ITBs, and is supposedly the "power steering rack and pinion's vacuum idle up valve / compensator return hole" according to this site.

But anyway, after reading the explanation on that site, I tried capping that vacuum spot, pulled the EFI fuse so the ECU could reset, and then started the car and let it adjust. Idle was fine, at about 900 RPM, but when I revved the motor, the response was VERY laggy. So as the car was running, I removed the cap, and the idle went up, but immediately, the engine would again rev instantly.

I shut off the car and reset the ECU again, and the car idled very high on immediate startup (like 2500 RPM...about 500 higher than normal when it's first adjusting) and once it was adjusted, the idle was still at 1500 RPM. This is the current state that the car is in, and when I was driving the car, this is how it was.

I'm thinking that perhaps that vacuum line has to do with my high idle and bad driveability problems. Anyone have any ideas there?

Or, perhaps it could be my three foot long vacuum line to my MAP sensor I'm thinking. On the Toyotas I've seen, it's typically been short, like 6-9" or so, but mine is quite a bit longer to accomodate my hidden remote mounting location for the MAP sensor. I'm guessing that three feet is too long...anyone have any input?

Keep in mind that the car idled and ran beautifully before I swapped in the new ECU. And I'm not throwing any codes at all at the moment.

What do you guys think? And any comments thus far are welcome as well...I'll be adding to this thread as I accomplish more on the car.

My car originally started out as a 1995 Toyota Celica ST (7AFE, Automatic Transmission).

I know have a 4AGE 20v Silvertop powered Celica. Also changed the transmission to a 5 speed manual. My engine is stock for the moment with only an Aftermarket 3" Air Filter, Greddy Cat-Back Exhaust, and No Catalytic Converter.

I purchased the Front Clip from Jarco for roughly $1000 shipped from GA to FL. The auto to manual pieces were sourced from TAP Recycling and totaled $250. I had a shop do the actual install of the motor and wiring; I sourced all information needed to perform the swap: Toyota Repair Manual(s) and Toyota Wiring Diagrams, 4AGE 20v ECU Pin-Outs, etc. I also have various part numbers regarding maintence pieces (timing belt, water pump, distributor, etc.) for the 4AGE 20v.

The performance is a much needed boost from an automatic ST Celica. Although I believe the engine is not running at its full potential at the moment. I know that there is a fuel issue with my engine, I'm running lean in the upper RPM's. I believe that if I run higher octane fuel and use a fuel controller (S-AFC) it will correct some of the power problems.

Other than that, I've been running the 4AGE 20v with no engine problems whatsoever. Its is definitely a smooth revving engine and has potential that is just waiting to be unleashed.