6G Celicas Forums

Maybe try contacting him through Ebay and ask for a phone No, my guess is that the engine mount bushes are very firm and transmit the engine vibration , is an engine shock brace available for these ST202/4 's ?? that'd cure the engine movement without hardening up the mounts , how about TRD mounts are they available ?

I did the body end of my trailing arms today, Pedders (Southport QLD) came to the party and found some Nolathane ones very close and customised them to fit and pressed the old out and the new in , I fitted the arms out/in total cost $62.00, big ride difference , I didn't expect much and was suprised.

Just to note the bush size at both ends of the trailing arm are the same, that is the one that presses into the trailing arm and the one in the hub that the u end of the trailing connects to.
So if you ware replacing with OE you could use a new OE hub end bush in the eye end of the trailing arm which would save you paying $237.00 each for new trailing arms which is what Toyota will want you to do.

Now I have found Nolathane bushes I will have Pedders do the hub end as it's a bit more tricky, it'll cost me $140 but still cheap I'm not worried about the suspenion arms at the moment as the OE are all good .

The front kit I can get here a fair price and given the suprising improvement just the front trailing arm bushes made I'll be getting that done ASAP-- and the budget allows.

Ill post up the Pedders part Nos and the bush dimensions that it needs modding to tommorrow for anyone thats interested.

Fantastic, thanks for the reply, looks like this is the go then, I'll have a quick look at my moding budget, -ah -hem , might have to raise a levy,--

I want to rebush my suspension and I've been looking for Nolethane / Urethane bushe sets and it's driving me nuts, I'd have to have found bushes and master bush kits for evey model of Celica ever made going back to before god was invented --except the good ole ST204.

The only one I've found is this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123

This comes from Poland and is advertised on the UK Ebay and runs out at around $340.00-$350.00 ish (depending on the exchange rate on the day) at the door which, though probably cheaper than new OE, (what ain't) still seems exy when , for example, you can pic up a master Kit for a GT4 for 80 odd bucks in the US.

Also is the question that this is advertised as being good for the ST202 - ST204 and I have read that there are some dimension differences in the bushes beween these two models.

So does any oone know where I can find the bushes I'm after , and has anyone bought the Polish ones and how did you go ?

I've lowered my ST204 25mm using KingSprings and had a wheel re-alignment done, however I am suffering a small amount of tracking due to the castor being slightly out and as its not normaly adjustable I wonder if anyone has come across a castor kit for the good ole ST204 anywhere ??

Or knows of a fix ??

Also my rear inner (body end) lower trailing arm bushes are soggy so I'm replacing those with OE on Friday as they may be causing the issue.

Does anyone know if nolethane type bushes are available for the ST204 generaly I say 'type' as noelethane and Polyurethane don't seem to have anything much to offer for this model ?

Absolutely , installed springs myself , it isn't my work that I'm worried about it's the work I'm paying for thats dodgey, if I hadn't figured out the that the castor was the issue and decided to remove the spring packing I would have still been driving with loose strut bolts-----or maybe not if they'd dropped out.

Thanks for the reply's everyone..

Camber bolts--only used on the side that had picked up excessive camber because of the lowering (-1.04 front and rear passenger side) the other side (drivers) -0.4 didn't need correction.

After a read of supension basics I have figured that it's the castor that was the problem.

I had lowered the front and rear to sit at exactly the same hight---bad move-- the front needs to sit 5-10mm lower to maintain its factory castor attitude.

Castor is not adjustable on this car , or if it is IFIIK how--the only way I could think of would maybe to have adjustable bushes in the rear lower trailing arms---I'm guessing , I realy don't know.

I have however removed the 5mm of plastic spring seating I had put on the front coils as a hieght leveler restoring close to factory front to rear hieghts and horay, the pulling to the left has nearly gone.

I have found however that I have a dead front strut on the drivers side and that the main bushes in the rear trailing arms are like bungy rubber.

As the soft bushes (left one is terrible) will give an uneven tracking this will also contribute to the castor being uneven on one side and this also causes the car to pull.

I am cautiously opptimistic that when I fix these next week my problems with this will be resolved.

It's a puzzle to me why the experts couldn't figure this out , as is the fact that the 2 lower strut nuts and bolts on one side of the car were only finger tight.

They were very professional at lightening my wallet though.

I've just installed Kinsprings (local brand of lower than stock springs) in my 1998 ST204 which I wrapped so they gave a 20mm drop front and rear , at the same time I installed 2 new rear Boge struts (fronts are good) had camber pins installed left side to take out the excess neg camber (right side is good) and a complete wheel alignment done by a reputable suspension shop.

They also straightened up my steering wheel which was at 10 to 12 when going straight forward to being quarter to and quarter past when going straight ahead.

And the car pulls to the left.

I then took it to another reputable suspension shop who spent 3 hours aligning rotating wheels etc.

And the car pulls to the left.

Has anyone else had this happen--(in any car} ???

I'm stumped--help please !!!!!

I have just had a huge frakin blue with Toyota about this timing belt /log book vomit , the log book I have says quite clearly that the timing belt is to be done every 5 years OR 100000 klms whichever comes sooner.

This car has been serviced by the same dealer since it's 64000 service in 2004 when they didn't do the timing belt , same dealer did all the services up to and including the 100000km one , it's last service last year when it had done 95000 kms and didn't do the timing belt , in both instances the log book was stamped without notation that the timing belt hadn't been done.

I bought the car from a dealer (not the same one who had been doing the servicing) on the presumption that the timing belt had been done as indicated by the fully stamped log book.

You can guess the rest .

Anyhoo I'll be droping a claim against the servicing dealer naming Toyota Motor Corp Australia as the second defendant into the Small Claims Tribunal (QCAT as it is now known in Qld) after the timing belt has been done next week and I've paid the bill--see how they like that.

Just FYI Toyota is now saying that the timing belt is good for 150000 kms or 90 months (7 1/2 years) whichever comes sooner.

And no they didn't do the timing belt then iether.--but they did stamp the book.

These guys are realy competetive when it comes to parts , maybe worth a go, ask for Andrew.

W : www.carsrus.com.au

P : 07 5443 6544
F : 07 5443 6569
A: 10 / 100 Sugar Road
Maroocydore QLD 4558

Cool , it's only got 97000klms on it , done wheels (Kings lite 5s) , I'm getting the timing belt and water pump done next week , (Gates , SKF pulleys , GMB pump) may do springs the week after , thinking of Eibach if I can get them , undecided , looked at coilovers but find it hard to justify the cost.

Imageshack clik pic to enlarge.

Thanks mate,
I'm happy with this one , it has factory cruise and security system , A/C of course and strangely no ABS, had Skyline GT-t and 2 wrxs in a row and just got sick of the cost of running performance stuff to use on roads where essentialy they're unusable.
If you want to keep a liscence that is

Yup we have penzoil but it's not a particularly popular one here so I don't think theres a big range , I'm presuming now that the differential and the gearbox share the same oil/lubricant ?

I'm not familiar with a product branded 'gear lube' allthough we have plent of brands that make various types of gearbox oils.

Car is a 1998 ST204R SXR 2.2 NA 5S=FE engine 5 speed manual gearbox.

I'm puzzled , some posts say dexron II / III in the manual gearbox , some 75 x 90 Gearbox oil , the Chilterns manual doesn't refer to a gearbox atall but a manual transaxle in which is says 75 x 90 gear oil is the go , almost as though refering to a 'gearbox and differential' is somewhat bad maners.--idiots--.

Anyhoo I'm presuming that the gearbox and diff share the same lubricant (or have I got that wrong and the gearbox shares the engine lubricant ?) and that the fill is just under 2.0 litres/US quarts--- but what is the lubricant ?

Jeez it shouldn't be this hard

Thanks for the replies I'm thinking it's probably the GT then as it has a naturaly aspirated 2.2ltr 5SFE twin cam engine. and thanks Smaay for the link much appreciated.

I've got an Australian delivered 1998 ST204R SXR and I've just ordered a workshop manual for it , this is a Chilterns type produced by Haynes and as the Australians are incapable of producing a bus timetable this is inevitably a US edition covering of course US delivered Celicas from 1994 to 1999 my question is what would be the equivalent -or nearest- US delivered model to the one that I have ?

Any help here gratefully received

17 X 7--PCD 4 X 100---+45 Offset-- KINGS KG5 Lites , 215 x 45 x 17 ZETUM rubber (Kuhmo s other make) , total wieght 17.3 kgs ea or just over a kilo more than the factory 15 X 7 alloys with 205 X 55 X 15 rubber. weighing in at 16.2kgs ea.(with well worn rubber.)

Cost of new wheels and new rubber balanced and fitted including new hex drive and security wheelnuts- AUS$1225.00.





Imageshack clic image to enlarge.