6G Celicas Forums

If i wasnt so busy with other things I would have considered buying it back but im starting a small business aside from working full time so.... I dont have time for a celica rebuild.

Totaled in terms of a rally car means different things even between cars and price points. The car is salvagable i've seen far worse repaired. Even to the point where they cut out literally an entire back shell and just leave the cage, butfor the money the car is worth i'm not sure the car is worth fixing.


This is rally car for sure totaled haha.



This was repaired.

I'm at work so I can't directly post pics, but I believe pics are here. http://instagram.com/rallybadger

Looks kinda fixable, but the problem is the cage moved a little in the rear quarter. If the caged moved the whole body is tweaked pretty bad I'm guessing.

Just a FYI the car was totaled at new england forrest rally. New owner sold it to a body shop; not sure whats going to happen, but I doubt its racing any time soon.

Not true. Golf carts are put in series to up the voltage. You put 3 12volt batteries and series and you have 36 volts with the same amount of amp hours as a single battery.

Why an extra battery instead of a high powered alternator? If you're using more power while driving than your alternator puts out an extra battery is going to do absolutely nothing for you.

The extra battery just gives you extra reserve power if you're using a lot of power while not driving the car.

Celica left today. Bitter sweet I guess... hopefully keeps on kicking for a long time.

Well... This will be the last video of the celica for me. My gopro mount sucked so I duct taped it to the cage and it was too low. So its not the best. 3rd the first day, like 11th the second. We were 4th in the second day until the ice shorted the fuel pump on the last stage and it took me 25 min to fix it.

I drove a lot harder the 2nd day than the 1st, but still not pushing too hard since the car was sold.


This was by far the most open stage of the rally. Some of the stages were so tight it was hard to get the car sideways, because if you dont do it perfect and catch a tire you get sucked off the road.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuQL4BXBlP8&noredirect=1

Kept it on the road. Only hit a few snowbanks which from the sounds of it people hit more snowbanks on one stage than I did the entire rally.


A huge block of ice built up around the fuel pump and shorted out the fuel pump fuse 2.5 miles from the finish. Seriously 300 miles, it couldnt wait.

You can drive it enough to get it on a trailer. I drove mine around the back of my house with out rear axles. But i wouldnt do much more than that.

Nope. You'll burn the center diff.

One more time, before the car is sold.... well its already sold provided i dont wreck it at the next race.


Awd rally car!

FYI, this is sold pending the outcome of sno*drift.

I've bought a transmission from them. No issues. UPS required the social or biz ID.

I wish you could too. Hoping someone that is into celicas buys it.... kinda someone thats excited that its a celica and not just a rally car.

Price i'm thinking $7000 + $1200 spares + $600 lights. $8800 For everything. Could just buy the car but you'd spend triple or more accumulating the same spares. I will be doing sno*drift in a month. So its not available until february, also this is contingent on me not wrecking, but if something breaks I will fix it. I'm racing it in a month, so it can't get more rally ready than that. Will come with everything, fire ext. spill kit etc. Only thing that may need modified is the seat brackets. Do to the little room in the car, the seats are as low as they can get and are not adjustable.

A little about the car, you can see the events it's done below. I will admit, parts can be a challenge for the rear, but I have a spreadsheet of all the parts used and cross references; never not been able to get parts I needed within a week or so. I built this car mainly because I always liked the famous castrol GT4. The main reason i'm selling is because of space. My dad and I are 6'2, 200+ 220+, while we fit its a tight squeeze and since we plan to continue to do this we'd like to be more comfortable.

The body is a little banged up, my body work sucks, but its a rally car. Only DNF by mechanical failure, not caused by me was the first race. Rod bearings had 200+k; couldnt handle high rpms that long. Engine now has under 80k.

Email me at czwalga at gmail

Event History
STPR 2011: DNF (Engine)
RallyWV 2011: Finished
Black River Stages 2011: Finished
Sno*Drift 2012: 5th/11th
STPR 2012: 5th/3rd
Hyperfest 2012: Finshed
RallyWV 2012: DNF (soft roll)
Black River Stages 2012: DNF (rear diff bearings, 3 rallys with no diff fluid, shocked it made it that long; complete failure on my part not the cars)
Sno*drift 2013: 3rd/6th
STPR 2013: 4th/2nd
RallyWV: 2013 DNF (Off, slide about 10 feet off the road)




Log Book: Rally America

Drivetrain:
3sge Engine (177 hp)
E154F Transmission (out of wrc GT4)
Spec 3 Clutch
Torsen Rear Diff

Suspension: Hotbits DT2s (just sent out to be rebuilt)

Fuel: (probably over 1k just in the fuel system)
ATL FIA Fuel Cell,
ATL Surge tank.
SS Braided Fuel lines
Fuel pressure Gauge (that works most of the time)

Random Stuff:
Sparco Tec Seats FIA
Terratrip Rally Computer and Intercom
Map Light
NRG Removable Steering wheel
Electrical Cutoff Switch
1/4" aluminum skidplate
Hydraulic hand brake (not in the pics)
Gforce camlock Belts (Expire end of 2014)

Lights:
Fiberglass pod, with Hella lenses and HID bulbs. (Close to 1k for the setup)

Wheels:
We can talk, I have a bunch, would come with at least 4 used rally tires with decent tread.

Spares:
3sge Engine
E154F Transmission
3 Axles, both fronts, 1 rear (rears are the same)
Driveshaft
Each rear suspension arm
Steering Rack
4 Knuckles, although the fronts are pretty worn.
4 Stock struts.
Tie rods (3 or 4)
Radiator
Bumper
Hatch

Did you send me stickers of a transam with a cowboy on them?

Haha, its not really home brew. Stock pedal assembly just modified a tad. I tend to overbuild things, right now i just wanted to get it bolted and welded into the car to make sure it works properly and fits. I'll take the pedal assembly out and strengthen the crap out of it, but even as of now its pretty stout when its bolted in.

....

Why would you think it would fail. Balance bar setup is used in all kinds of racing. I still need to add a little gusseting to firm it up a little, but it doesn't yield at all bolted into the car as it is now.

Most likely a tie rod.


I did hit something, it screwed up my toe.


Check those.....


They make your wheel do this....

Not necessarily true. Low resistance provides a ton of EMI interference at those voltage ranges. Most OEM spark plug wires have very high resistances per foot.


EMI can have negative effects on your ECU/Gauges etc. Also most 'low resistance' spark plug wires are made with spiral wire instead of solid core wiring. In transmission lines, the majority of the power flows through the outer most portion of the wire; so if you have stranded wire its actually hindering the transmission.

I'm not sure if I had a different harness, but there was no way mine was fitting in the OEM location without extending the harness. It was made for RHD, so it entered on the complete other side of the firewall.

There's still connections that have to be made, to the body? harness. For the gauges, fuel pump, etc that sit right above the ECU in the stock location. It just plugs right in, but if the wiring isnt long enough to get there you'll have to extend them.


Like I said though my harness was really mangled, so I just pretty much made my own out of the two I had. I think the igniter colors were different? Buy the celica oem wiring manual for like $20. That along with the 3sge ECU pinout is enough to figure out what needs done no matter what harness you're using.

Cool, are those powder coated or painted?


I just bought an el cheapo blasting cabinet for smaller things like that. I don't want to powder coat them, just want some heavy duty paint.

Well I was going to paint the celica this weekend, but the paint didnt come in time.



Worked on the dual master setup with balance bar on the impreza. Was a huge pain using the stock pedals, solid 2 days of work figuring out how to do it aligning everything etc. Might be worth paying $300 for a complete aftermarket pedal assembly, vs. the $50 for just the balance bar if I had to do it in the future.

The pedal was drilled to give about a 6:1 ratio, the stock ratio is around 4.5:1. Eliminating power brakes.