6G Celicas Forums

I'm sorry anyone who has a JDM motor, 3rd gen or RC might have one... US models don't but but i assure you they exist

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGT-Sensor-Abgaste...=item43a20d4d5e

Hey
If anyone has one of these laying around in good condition I would like to take it off your hands. This is the egt sensor the runs the cat light on the dash

did you get a chance to take pics of the damage?

pics?

FYI here is the intake manifold you were looking for

http://nozzs.com/index.php?main_page=produ...p;products_id=6

I'm looking for headlight clips to hold the rubber gasket on. Where can I buy them? The dealer said they don't have a listing. Is my only option a junkyard our two?

So I just completed my 3sgte swap and I am curious as to what I should insure it as. Also what have others with swaps done. Also I did a full brake conversion. Or should I just leave it as an ST and be done with it?

i def want in on this

1. mak5603
2. chacha
3. luka
4. 94greenlantern
5. aussie_celica
6. speedy

do you still have the tweeter speaker covers on the doors, if so how much?

i sent the harness out to be done because it was chopped up by a bad shop... so the person i sent it to put it together the best he could

i had to go back and fix all the mistakes he made or the other shop... either way it was a headache

*deep breath in* well the exact problem was the WIN/ABS pin needed to be grounded. then there was a wire from the W pin in the DLC to the BATT pin so i moved the wire from the DLC to the W pin on the ECU. Also, the W pin and the FC pin are the same color so he connected them together which was giving me the constant light. So, i separated them because the FC pin goes to the circuit opening relay. *exhale* lol

::Resolved::

Nope, I had the ECU completely unhooked, checked the wires but for whatever reason the light stays on.

Looks like I have to go over DG's wiring again... *sigh*

update: the code is gone. when I test the CEL just continually blinks. I have tried resetting the ECU, I removed the fuse and disconnected the Batt.

But, the CEL stays on when i start the car...

Does anyone have any ideas what to do from here?

yeah, there definately is a seperate IC ECU. the set up is based off the one used in a ST165, they have one too.

I dont want to use the USDM ECU just because I dont want to lose the power. the computer I have has been tuned and I want to try and make it work. if anything i would go to a stand alone before I shell out for another stock ECU.

So I grounded the spot for the WIN pin disconnected the batt and took out all the fuses that said ECU and EFI. The light is still on....

Sould I ground the spot where the INT pin would be icase it is a CS and not an RC?

Also, can anyone tell me what the CCO pin is?

@ domyz thx

@ dustin I don't think defgeph remembers

*sigh* I'm screwed... does anyone else have anything for me

Hey,

I have a huge quetion... You might be a little sick of answering this but it has a twist... I'm doing a 3s swap. The ecu part # is not readable. I believe it is a ST185RC. I have no stock IC parts besides the charge cooler. I know if it is a 185RC ECU I have to ground the WIN/ABS pin on the 3rd connector. Also, I have to loop/ground the level sensor harness.

This is where the twist comes and I need some help... on the level sensor there is 2 wires wht-blk=ground-->??? & gry-red=signal-->???

The ground is on E2 2nd plug right now the signal wire is not hooked up at all. I am not sure if that wire goes to the ECU or went to the intercooler ECU which I dont have.

So if you could help me out and tell me where the grey wire with the red stipe goes I will be home free with this nightmare.

Also, if anyone has ST185RC engine and sensor wiring diagrams that would be great I have the ecu pinout already but they don't tell me what color wire goes where. I can't tell on my own cuz the harness was all chopped up and wire colors don't really match so I ne the paper work so I can put this together

Thanks

Hi all,
I know the info has probably been posted here before. But, I can not find the info i am looking for. So I am trying to enlist some help on getting in the right direction.

I am doing a ST185RC swap into an AT200... I don't have the intercooler ECU, I'm using a bocsh water pump and the level sensor is not hooked up. The car has one code 54 because of this...

I am trying to find the info on how to wire in a resistor to bypass this code and get the light off so the car will come out of limp mode. Thanks in advance

What is DG's web site? Can someone post the link?

hey guys got an idea! on the passenger side axle line the spacers up so the groves line up.in stead of trying to limit the range of motion or the amount play. if the wheel is straight the bearings will be in the first housing, when the wheel is turned the axle nut will pull the bearings out to the second CV housing. i know that u can off set the two CV housings on the driver's side but it may not be the way to go on the passenger's side.

or get it machined down to the correct length

does that sound logical to anyone else?

so guys what about a quality coil over setup? or is it better to go with springs and struts sperately?

It was planted by the KGB

i would image that methanol would be a little colder than water, but i dont know which one is colder between that and nitrous injection. but i dont know if i want all that. first there would be a bottle i would have to fill. so if a water/air is almost the same but a little cheaper in the long run and not to mention safer. think about an accident with that stuff in ur car.

yeah thats what i mean a front-mount air/water intercooler. i wanted to know if it would be cooler than an air/air intercooler. i think it would. if the IC is placed is the front bumper would that be enough distance from the engine. if u have a small exchanger and a catch tank in the fender and have a fender with scoops.

Hey guys i was wondering about a water to air intercooler. not a heat exchanher but an actual FMIC. would this be something worth getting? the whole thing with the TMIC is that they get heat soaked. but if the air is passing through the same point, where air is passing past the water i.e. the coolest piont. wouldn't that be better? if u keep the system seperate from the radiator and keep a resivoir tank away from the engine or vented in some way, would this be more effiecent than an air-to-air setup. i cant really see how it wouldnt but can u guys and gals help me brain storm?