6G Celicas Forums

Yup, You certainly have a 3S GE. If you look under the hood behind the drivers side (right hand drive, I presume) there should be a label detailing your injun type. The SS III is similar to the SS II but comes with full body kit. Also if you are looking for a wheel bearing and you get dogs hardship trying to find one then you know for certain that it is an SS III. And Strut Suspension does indicate SS III.

Why all the "lucky b*****d" replys? Is the 3S GE engine something special? Like andysport I am new to the Celica (May 2003) world but have found out mountains of information when I go to look for parts (Mine is a 1994 import - try getting an indiglo dial for a Japanese import with a 9K rev dial with a 120 mph speedo!!!!). I've changed the wishbone, wheel bearing, rear struts and springs, bulbs (the existing ones wouldn't dazzle rabbits), cat and brake pads as well as taking off those insulting 15" alloys for 17" Tooras.

Have fun andysport - the celi will break your heart and bank but you won't want to part with it - I gaurantee you!

Bigredcelica.

What are them there spring rubbers. I ain't never seen these before!!

If anyone is looking for Indiglo or reverse indiglo gauges, any colour, any design, pick your own font, your own name across the dial or a choice of graphic go to

http://www.speedhut.com/el_dial_products.asp

They are expensive, damn expensive, but if you want that personal touch this is your place. I had a lot of trouble finding gauges for my jap import car which had a max 180kmh, no mph marking and a rev counter that went to 9K. This site had the basics and would put mph for a charge. It's worth having a look!!

GeEkBoY - you have me curious. My hydrocarbons were excellent. What does the O2 sensor do? I have just got a cat from a MR2 that with a bit of modification should fit my celi. This has an O2 sensor attached. I plan to change it out this weekend but if a sensor can do this then this may be a quicker and cheaper solution.

Considering my car has 90K on the clock I might be as well changing out the cat but curiosity is getting the better of me as to how a sensor can affect the emmissions.

Thanks for all the replys. I intend in getting premium fuel next time with a bottle of emmission rerducing fluid - hope all goes well!

BIGREDCELICA

Hi,
I have 1994 St202 Celi with a 3S GE injun with 90K miles. I have recently got a NCT test (Irish road worthiness test) which includes a similar test to the smog emmissions test. My low idle (1000 revs) showed fine but my high idle (2750 revs) came in over spec. The standard is 0.3 where my results were 0.4 These are ppm results, or a multiple of, for CO or Carbon Monoxide.

I brought this to a garage where the emmissions showed results of 0.005 for high idle but as soon as the revs were dropped the result shot up massively for a few seconds. He tells me that the cat is gone (nine lives my ass). Is he right? I wouldn't be very trustworthy of his business and need verification before buying. I don't partiucularly want to go down the road of adding Ethynol or such like to the fuel just to pass - I would rather get the car as it should be.

Any thoughts?

Hi,

I checked the bulbs and were placed in the holder correctly. They also work for both elements, i.e., both the break light and the parking light work. You suggest that they may still work but come back as a high resistance. Is this as either a brake or a parking light or both? I will be trying to replace each bulb with a new one today to see which may be at fault. SHould this not work have you any other thoughts?

Thanks vphmc. This "Fisher Price" instruction makes it clear to someone of my knowledge base. I'll let you know how I get on.

Hi all,

On my Celica GT I have an irritating problem. I have an indicator light on the dash that resembles a car with semi circles emiting from the rear corners of the car. This light comes on when the brakes are applied. A friend of mine said he had this in his car and it was an indicator that the break light set had a blown bulb. Needless to say all bulbs were correct and working, as I am here asking the question.

I have seen suggestions about break fluid and break pads. My rear pads were recently changed (disc), my fluid was topped up and bled and my front discs are still healthy but I had this indicator before these changes. The emergency break has its own indicator light and this works OK.

Any thoughts?

Thanks VPHMC - it looks like you know what you are talking about. Unfortunately there is a void between my knowledge and your descriptions. Could you explain further.

- The "rubber seating part top and bottom" - where exactly? Is this between the spring and where the groove in strut and the strut mount accept the spring or is this the top mount?

- The "top knuckle type part" - is this where the inside spindle of the strut attaches to the strut mount?

- The metal spacer - is this placed between the strut spindle and the mount or between the nut and the rubber top of the strut mount?

Apologies for the questions - I am familiar on how to remove the strut assembly and compress the springs. I just want to be happy with the descriptions and what to look for when it is detached.

Thanks again

Just found the 6gc website - great!!

My reason for looking for this site other than the posession of a 94 GT is that I have the same problem as stated below. I originally had a knocking in the rear of the car after putting 17" Toora rims on. There was some noise before this but not as bad. I had the struts changed for Monroe OEM and springs replaced with ROC springs for the ST202 which dropped the rear by 1.5". The original struts were completely gone (no return on compression) The noise to the rear is gradually getting worse ahgain after 6 weeks. As you describe the clicking, knocking and banging is irritating after spending €500 on replacements (I'm Irish, hense the €). I only seem to find it at slow speeds where the road is rough and unlevel. At higher speeds I suppose the suspension doesn't move as much. What was the final outcome of your problem? I am suspecting the strut mount but don't want to go spending good money after bad. The sway bars were checked as good but what was your "pounding" and did it work? You can understand the reluctance to accept this noise as you always fear that something will go at speed.

You will understand my comment - HELP!!!!!!!!